JP7684699B2 - Raglan sleeve garment - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a raglan sleeve garment that eliminates the feeling of tightness on the rear shoulder side of the garment when the arms are moved forward.

Ensuring freedom of movement for the arms is important for workwear and sportswear jackets, and in particular, traditionally, garments have been designed with stretchable gussets at the back of the shoulders to reduce the feeling of tightness when the arms are stretched out in front, such as Norfolk.

However, Norfolk-style clothing relies on folding at the gusset to stretch and eliminate the feeling of tightness in this area, and there is a problem in that the wearer feels a strain when moving their arms forward while folding.

On the other hand, in raglan sleeve garments where the underarm margins between the raglan sleeve pieces and the back body pieces provide extra room at the back of the shoulders, the back body and shoulder patterns can be devised to provide margins that will bulge three-dimensionally when the pieces are sewn together. For example, it has been proposed below to bulge the area around the shoulders three-dimensionally to provide freedom of movement for the arms.

Utility Model Registration No. 3117564 Patent Publication No. 2021-85116

Patent document 1 discloses a structure in which the lining material of normal sleeves is replaced with raglan sleeves 1A and 1B, ensuring mobility of the shoulders.

On the other hand, although it is not a raglan sleeve type garment, Patent Document 2 discloses a structure in which the back of the garment is divided at the base of the sleeve into a back (back) section 11 and a back sleeve section 12, with a margin provided at the seam between the two sections, and the garment is sewn in a three-dimensional manner so that it bulges outward along the surface of the human body.

In Patent Document 1, the raglan sleeve mold piece used as the lining is vertically separated into a front body side mold piece 1A and a back body side mold piece 1B, and by providing a margin to the sewing area between the two pieces, the area around the shoulder is expanded three-dimensionally, forming a space in the lining of the shoulder that allows a large amount of movement in response to arm movement.

With raglan sleeves, which are made up of a front body piece 1A and a back body piece 1B, the entire shoulder can be inflated, but because this would destroy the outline of the shoulder as a garment, shoulder pads 2 are placed between the outer fabric to secure the space, and a separate outer fabric is then placed over the garment to enforce this appearance. Also, because this configuration does not provide a large amount of shoulder movement only to the back body side, when the wearer stretches their arms forward, the degree of freedom on the back body side is insufficient, and the back side is stiff, leaving the problem that the degree of freedom of the arm to stretch forward is not secured.

In other words, with this conventional technology, the outer material and shoulder pads 2 hide the deformation, so this is not a problem, but with clothing that has raglan sleeves as the outer material, there is a problem that the deformation of the entire shoulder becomes visible, and there is also the problem that it is not possible to provide a large space margin on the back side.

Patent Document 2 also shows a structure in which the shoulders bulge vertically on the back of the garment to provide a space margin, but there is a problem in that the freedom of movement in the lateral direction, which allows freedom of movement when raising and lowering the arms when held in front of the wearer, is insufficient.

Therefore, the present invention aims to provide a garment with raglan sleeves, which have a pattern piece extending from the sleeve to the collar, that does not lose its shape significantly at the back and allows freedom of movement of the arms even when the arms are stretched out in front and raised and lowered.

A representative raglan sleeve garment that solves the above problem is a raglan sleeve garment that is made by sewing together at least a front body piece, a back body piece, and a raglan sleeve piece that is placed between the front body piece and the back body piece and extends from the sleeve of the garment to the collar of the garment at the upper shoulder of the garment, wherein the raglan sleeve piece is composed of a sleeve piece consisting of the sleeve and the upper shoulder of the garment, and a margin piece that is placed between the sleeve piece and the collar of the garment, and is characterized in that, on the back side of the garment, there are provided margin areas that bulge three-dimensionally when the margin piece and the sleeve piece are sewn together, at least between the margin piece and the sleeve piece, and between the margin piece and the back body piece, thereby forming a raised area on the back side of the garment centered on the intersection of the seam line between the margin piece and the back body piece and the seam line between the margin piece and the sleeve piece.

The margin piece and back body piece may also be structured to have a margin area that expands three-dimensionally when the two pieces are sewn together.

The horizontal seam line may also be bent at the intersection to form an oblique angle toward one side of the back body piece.

Furthermore, in the raglan sleeve garment described in claim 1 or 3, the sleeve piece may be divided into a first sleeve piece and a second sleeve piece, which are sewn together in parallel with the seam line between the sleeve piece and the margin piece.

The present invention divides the raglan sleeve pieces in a raglan sleeve garment, provides a margin area at the vertical seam between the two pieces, and forms a raised area centered on the intersection of the vertical seam and the horizontal seam between the raglan sleeve piece and the back piece, thereby ensuring vertical movement of the arms at the shoulders and making it possible to provide a garment that is less likely to lose its shape on the back side.

1A is a front view of the rear body side of the top, and FIG. 1B is a back view of the front body side of the top, illustrating a raglan sleeve top according to a first embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 1A is a perspective view of the rear side of the top when the wearer has his/her arms down, and FIG. 1B is a perspective view of the rear side of the top when the wearer has his/her arms stretched out in front. 1A is an explanatory diagram of the mold pieces that make up the shoulder portion of the jacket, and FIG. 1B is an explanatory diagram showing the margin area when the mold pieces of the jacket are sewn together. 1A and 1B are diagrams illustrating a raglan sleeve type upper garment according to a second embodiment of the present invention, in which (a) is a front view of the rear body side of the upper garment, and (b) is a back view of the front body side of the upper garment.

[First embodiment]
The upper garment according to the first embodiment of the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Figs. 1 to 3.

As shown in Figures 1(a) and 1(b), the top 1 in the first embodiment is a raglan sleeve garment with raglan sleeve pieces 4 extending from the sleeves to the collar. The raglan sleeve pieces 4 are sewn between the back body piece 2 on the back surface 1A of the top 1 and the front body piece 3 on the front surface 1 to form the upper shoulder surface 1C of the top 1.

The raglan sleeve piece 4 is divided into a sleeve piece 4A that constitutes the sleeve 1D of the top 1, and a margin piece 4B on the collar side 1E of the top 1. The seam between the sleeve piece 4A and the margin piece 4B crosses the front and back body at the midpoint of the upper shoulder surface 1C from the base of the sleeve 1D to the collar side 1E, forming a vertical seam S3.

In addition, on the back surface 1A of the top 1, a horizontal seam is formed by a seam S1 between the margin piece 4B and the back body piece 2, and a seam S2 between the sleeve piece 4A and the back body piece 2. However, the seam S1 and the seam S2 are bent at the intersection X of the horizontal seam S1, S2 and the vertical seam S3.

That is, on the left and right shoulder back 1F of the top 1, intersection point X is formed where horizontal seam lines S1, S2 intersect with vertical seam line S3, and on the back body piece 2 side, a soft angle α (180 degrees or more and 360 degrees or less) is formed with intersection point X as a vertex by the horizontal seam lines S1, S2.

On the front 1B of the top 1, the vertical seam S3 and the front shoulder seam S4 between the margin piece 4B and the front body piece 3 intersect at the base of the sleeve 1D, and the front shoulder seam S4 is a straight line that does not bend, so that no structure like the intersection X on the back 1A side is formed on the front 1B side. The sleeve 1D of the garment 1 is formed by rolling up the sleeve piece 4A and sewing both ends together, and the sleeve seam S5 is formed on the inside of the sleeve 1D.

As shown in Figures 2(a) and (b), the back 1A of the jacket 1 is composed of a sleeve piece 4A, which is a separated raglan sleeve piece 4, a margin piece 4B, and a back body piece 2 (note that in these figures, the front body side portions of the sleeve piece 4A and the margin piece 4B are hidden on the back side and are not shown).

Before sewing, the sleeve mold piece 4A and the margin mold piece 4B have a margin area m1 near the vertical seam line S3 where they bulge and overlap, and when they are sewn together along the vertical seam line S3, this area bulges outward, creating a so-called three-dimensional stitching.

Similarly, near the horizontal seam line S1 between the back body piece 2 and the margin piece 4B, each piece 2, 4B has a margin region m2, and when the horizontal seam line S1 is aligned and the two pieces are sewn together, this area also bulges outward.

In addition, in the vicinity of the horizontal seam line S2 between the back body piece 2 and the sleeve piece 4A, each piece 2, 4A has a margin region m3, just like a normal raglan sleeve garment, and this margin region m3 allows the garment 1 to expand in the thickness direction, and the garment can be sewn together at the sleeve seam line S5 to form the sleeve 1D.

The bulge of the upper garment 1 caused by these margins m1, m2, and m3 is concentrated at the intersection X where the horizontal sutures S1 and S2 intersect with the vertical suture S3.

Note that in Figures 2(a) and 2(b), the front side 1B of the jacket 1 is not shown for the margin mold piece 4B, but no margin is formed between the sleeve mold piece 4A and the front side 1B, and the margin m1 is formed only on the back side 1A.

The function of the top 1 will be explained using Figures 3(a) and (b). As shown in Figure 3(a), when the wearer of the top 1 lowers his/her arm, the sleeve 1D of the top 1 is lowered, and the bulges of the horizontal seams S1 and S2 and the vertical seam line S3 due to the margin areas m1, m2, and m3 are concentrated at their intersection point X.

In other words, on the back side 1A of the top 1, raised regions R are formed on both shoulder backs 1F, centered on the intersection point X. The margin regions m1 and m2 overlap at the intersection point X, and the raised region caused by the margin region m3, which is a common feature of raglan sleeve garments, causes the back body piece 2, which has a superior angle centered on the intersection point X, to push up and envelop the raglan sleeve piece 4 on the inferior angle side, so that the raised region R on the back shoulders 1F is always centered on the intersection point X.

As shown in FIG. 3(a), the occurrence of raised region R causes wrinkles to form on the shoulder back 1F of the top 1, but the bulge of raised region R is always concentrated at intersection point X, so wrinkles do not form randomly, and the occurrence of wrinkles is always controlled, improving the appearance of the back body side 1A of the top 1.

At this time, the front side 1B of the top 1 maintains a flat shape because no margin areas are formed between the mold pieces 1, 4A, and 4B.

As shown in FIG. 3(b), when a person wearing the top 1 raises their arm forward, the sleeve 1D of the top 1 is pulled toward the front side 1B, and the raised area R disappears on the back side of the shoulder 1F on the side where the arm is raised, and the shoulder becomes flat.

At this time, the wearer can move his/her arm freely because the inner space secured in the raised region R does not restrict the movement of the wearer's arm. In particular, the raised region R bulges out three-dimensionally due to margin regions m1, m2 in multiple directions between the vertical suture line S3 and the horizontal suture line S1 that intersects with it, giving this part a large degree of freedom to follow the vertical and horizontal arm movements.

As described above, the upper garment 1 of this embodiment can provide a garment that does not lose its shape significantly at the shoulder and back 1F of the upper garment 1, and also allows great freedom of movement when raising and lowering the arms with the arms stretched out in front.

[Second embodiment]
Next, a second embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to Figures 4(a) and 4(b). The same components as those in the first embodiment are designated by the same reference numerals and will not be described (back side 1A, front side 1B, upper shoulder surface 1C, sleeve 1D, collar side 1E, back shoulder surface 1F, etc.).

The jacket 11 of this embodiment is made by dividing the sleeve mold piece 4A constituting the raglan sleeve mold piece 4 into a first sleeve mold piece 4A1 on the sleeve 1D side and a second sleeve mold piece 4A2 on the shoulder upper surface 1C side, which are then sewn together.

The seam S6 between the first sleeve mold piece 4A1 and the second sleeve mold piece 4A2 does not form a margin area and does not contribute to the formation of the shape of the raised area R. However, as shown on the front side 1A of the top 11 in Figure 4(b), an opening is provided at this seam S6 and a pocket P is attached to the inside.

In this way, the raglan sleeve mold piece 4 does not necessarily have to be composed of only two mold pieces like the top 1 of the first embodiment, but a variety of part configurations can be selected, like the top 1 of this embodiment.

[Other variations]
The raglan sleeve type garment of the present invention is not limited to the tops 1, 11 as in the first and second embodiments, but can also be applied to overalls with integrated trousers and sportswear for baseball and the like.

In addition, in the upper garments 1 and 11 of these embodiments, in addition to the margin region m1 of the vertical seam line S3, a margin region m2 is provided on the horizontal seam line S1 to raise it, but it is not necessary to provide the margin region m2. Conversely, in addition to these, a margin region may also be provided on the horizontal seam line S2 on the sleeve 1D side.

In addition, in the upper garments 1 and 11 of these embodiments, the horizontal suture lines S1 and S2 are bent, but as long as an intersection point X with the horizontal suture line S3 is formed where the protruding force is concentrated, the horizontal suture lines S1 and S2 may be straight without being bent.

1, 11 … Upper garment (clothing)
1A ... Back side 1B ... Front side 1C ... Top of shoulder 1D ... Sleeve 1E ... Collar side 1F ... Back of shoulder 2 ... Back body piece 3 ... Front body piece 4 ... Raglan sleeve piece 4A ... Sleeve piece 4A1 ... First sleeve piece 4A2 ... Second sleeve piece 4B ... Margin piece S1, S2 ... Horizontal seam S3 ... Vertical seam X ... Intersection (between horizontal seam and vertical seam) R ... Raised area α ... Relief angle (on one side of the back body piece due to bending of the horizontal seam)

Claims (4)

A raglan sleeve type garment comprising at least a front body piece, a back body piece, and a raglan sleeve piece disposed between the front body piece and the back body piece and extending from a sleeve portion of the garment to a collar portion of the garment at an upper portion of the shoulder of the garment, the raglan sleeve piece being sewn together,
The raglan sleeve mold piece is composed of a sleeve mold piece consisting of the sleeve portion and the upper shoulder portion of the garment, and a margin mold piece to be disposed between the sleeve mold piece and the collar portion of the garment,
A raglan sleeve garment characterized in that, on the back side of the garment, there are provided margin areas which bulge three-dimensionally when the margin piece and the sleeve piece, and the margin piece and the back body piece are sewn together, thereby forming a raised area on the back side of the garment centered on the intersection of the seam line between the margin piece and the back body piece and the seam line between the margin piece and the sleeve piece. The raglan sleeve garment according to claim 1, characterized in that the sleeve piece and the back piece also have margin areas that expand three-dimensionally when the two pieces are sewn together. The raglan sleeve garment according to claim 1, characterized in that the angle formed by the seam line between the margin piece and the back piece at the intersection and the seam line between the sleeve piece and the back piece is bent to form an oblique angle toward the back piece. A raglan sleeve garment according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the sleeve piece is further divided into a first sleeve piece and a second sleeve piece, which are sewn together in parallel with the seam line between the sleeve piece and the margin piece. A raglan sleeve garment.

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