JP7706853B2 - Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic.

In recent years, the functions required for skin care cosmetics have become more diverse, and in addition to moisturizing effects, functions such as whitening effects are also required. Active whitening ingredients include vitamin C, vitamin E, kojic acid, arbutin, and tranexamic acid. Among them, tranexamic acid is an ingredient that has an "antiplasmin effect" that suppresses the enzyme "plasmin" in the body that causes inflammation, and has been attracting attention in recent years as an active whitening ingredient.
In order to achieve the whitening effect of tranexamic acid, it is necessary to incorporate 0.5 to 2% by mass of tranexamic acid into the entire cosmetic. However, it is known that cosmetics containing a high amount of tranexamic acid have a poor texture when used, and it has been empirically recognized that a content of 0.5 to 2% by mass of the entire cosmetic results in a poor texture when used. In particular, the deterioration of texture when used is remarkable in oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics, and the deterioration of spreadability and skin compatibility, which are important design qualities of cosmetics, has often been a problem.

Technologies have been proposed to improve the feel of cosmetics containing a high content of tranexamic acid. For example, in Patent Document 1, the applicant proposes an emulsion cosmetic that contains (A) 0.5 to 2 mass% of tranexamic acids and/or 3 to 10 mass% of niacinamide, (B) an oil containing one or more selected from silicone oil and tri(caprylic/capric)glyceryl having a kinetic viscosity of 50 cSt or less, (C) 1.5 to 6.5 mass% of silicic anhydride, (D) ethanol, (E) polyhydric alcohol, and (F) water, which has a fresh feel when applied to the skin, spreads well and blends well with the skin, and leaves the skin non-sticky and silky after application.

Generally, oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics such as lotions and creams are applied at the end of skin care routines, and then makeup is applied. However, it has been discovered that applying an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic with a high content of tranexamic acid during skin care routines reduces the adhesion of foundation and other makeup products in the subsequent makeup routine.

JP 2023-025315 A

The objective of the present invention is to provide an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that has excellent moisturizing properties, a pleasant feel when used, and allows makeup to be applied smoothly.

The means for solving the problems of the present invention are as follows.
1. An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic comprising (A) to (C).
(A) Tranexamic acid 0.1 to 5% by mass
(B) 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymer (C) Diester of dicarboxylic acid 2. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to 1., wherein component (C) is a diester of a dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and a monohydric alcohol having 4 to 18 carbon atoms.
3. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to 1. or 2., characterized in that component (C) is one or more selected from diisostearyl malate, diethylhexyl succinate, diethoxyethyl succinate, bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexanedicarboxylate, and bis-ethoxydiglycol succinate.

The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention has excellent moisturizing properties and a pleasant feel when used. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention has excellent makeup adhesion after application, and makeup can be applied smoothly after application of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention.

The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic preparation (hereinafter also referred to as cosmetic preparation) of the present invention contains (A) to (C).
(A) Tranexamic acid 0.1 to 5% by mass
(B) 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-stearyl methacrylate copolymer (C) Diester of dicarboxylic acid In this specification, the expression "A to B (A and B are numbers)" means a numerical range including both ends, i.e., A or more and B or less.

(A) Tranexamic acid Tranexamic acid is an abbreviation for trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexane-1-carboxylic acid, and is mainly incorporated in cosmetics as a whitening agent or an anti-inflammatory agent. Commercially available products include "Japanese Pharmacopoeia Tranexamic Acid" (Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.). As the tranexamic acid, tranexamic acid or a derivative thereof can be used, and as the derivative, tranexamic acid salts (metal salts such as magnesium salt, calcium salt, sodium salt, potassium salt, etc., phosphate salt, hydrochloride salt, hydrobromide salt, sulfate salt, etc.), tranexamic acid esters (vitamin esters such as vitamin A ester, vitamin E ester, vitamin C ester, alkyl esters), tranexamic acid amide, dimers of tranexamic acid, etc. can be used. In addition, one or more of tranexamic acid and tranexamic acid derivatives can be used.
The blending ratio of (A) tranexamic acid is 0.1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less based on the total mass of the cosmetic of the present invention. The blending ratio of (A) tranexamic acid is preferably 0.3% by mass or more, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and is preferably 4% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less.

(B) 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-stearyl methacrylate copolymer The phosphorylcholine group is a polar group moiety of the phospholipid that constitutes the cell membrane. The (B) component is a copolymer of 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine having a phosphorylcholine group and stearoyl methacrylate, and its cosmetic labeling name is Polyquaternium-61. As commercially available products of the (B) component, "Lipidure-S", "Lipidure-NR", and "Lipidure-NA" (all manufactured by NOF Corporation) can be used.
From the viewpoint of usability, the blending ratio of component (B) is preferably from 0.001% by mass to 0.2% by mass, more preferably 0.002% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.004% by mass or more, and more preferably 0.16% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.12% by mass or less, based on the entire cosmetic of the present invention.

(C) Diester of dicarboxylic acid The dicarboxylic acid component in the diester of dicarboxylic acid is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, etc., and one or more of these may be used. Among these, dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 8 carbon atoms are preferred, and among these, saturated dicarboxylic acids are more preferred.
The alcohol component in the diester of dicarboxylic acid is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, ethoxyethanol, ethoxydiglycol, glycerin, polyglycerin, PEG, etc., and one or more of these may be used. Among these, monohydric alcohols having 4 to 18 carbon atoms are preferred, and among these, branched aliphatic alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms or alcohols having 4 to 6 carbon atoms and an ether bond in the molecule are preferred.

As the diester of dicarboxylic acid, one or more kinds can be used. Specifically, diisostearyl malate, diethylhexyl succinate, diethoxyethyl succinate, bisethoxydiglycol cyclohexanedicarboxylate, and bisethoxydiglycol succinate are particularly preferred.
From the viewpoint of usability, the blending ratio of component (C) is preferably from 0.5% by mass to 20% by mass, more preferably from 0.7% by mass or more, even more preferably from 0.9% by mass or more, and more preferably from 16% by mass or less, and even more preferably from 12% by mass or less, based on the entire cosmetic of the present invention.

In the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, the mass ratio (A/B) of the component (A) to the component (B) is preferably from 15 to 500, more preferably from 20 or more, and more preferably from 400 to 400, from the viewpoint of cosmetic application.
In the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, the mass ratio (A/C) of the component (A) to the component (C) is preferably 0.1 or more and 2.5 or less, more preferably 0.2 or more, and more preferably 2.0 or less, from the viewpoint of cosmetic application.

By containing components (A) to (C), the cosmetic of the present invention maintains the effects of tranexamic acid while providing excellent moisturizing feeling and usability, as well as excellent application of makeup thereafter.
The cosmetic preparation of the present invention may contain other ingredients used in cosmetics based on the desired use, effect, etc., so long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Examples of such other ingredients include active ingredients such as polyhydric alcohols, chelating agents, and anti-inflammatory agents, emollients, moisturizing agents, antioxidants, colorants, preservatives, fragrances (including essential oils), thickeners, pH adjusters, various oily components, and various aqueous components.

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples and comparative examples.
(B) 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymer 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymer (manufactured by NOF Corporation, Lipidure-S)
(b) (B) Similar component: 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/butyl methacrylate copolymer (manufactured by NOF Corporation, Lipidure-PMB)
Oil: Dimethicone (Dow Toray Industries, Inc., DOWSIL SH200C Fluid 10 cSt)
Surfactant: Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid (NIKKOL Resinol S-10, manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.)
Thickener: Acrylic acid/alkyl methacrylate copolymer (Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co., Ltd., AQUPEC HV-701EDR)

Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics were prepared to have the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2, and were evaluated by the following methods. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.
"Evaluation Method"
Sensory Evaluation Approximately 50 mg of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was applied to the inside of the forearm and rubbed with the pad of a finger in a circular motion 40 times within an area of approximately 30 x 30 mm. The feel during use and moisturizing sensation were evaluated by a panel of three experts according to the following criteria.
(Feeling of use)
-Spreadability upon application Spreadability upon application refers to the sensation of being able to spread the cosmetic product on the skin without any resistance when it is applied.
Evaluation criteria: ◎: Very good, ◯: Good, △: Slightly poor, ×: Poor Thickness when applied Thickness when applied refers to the sensation when applying the cosmetic to the skin, where there is no sensation of touching the bare skin, but rather the presence of the cosmetic is felt between the hand and the skin.
Evaluation criteria: ◎: Very good, ◯: Good, △: Slightly poor, ×: Poor Non-stickiness Non-stickiness refers to the absence of a viscous or sticky residual liquid feeling that is felt when touching the skin after application of a cosmetic product to the skin even after a certain period of time has passed.
Evaluation criteria: ◎: Very good, ◯: Good, △: Slightly bad, ×: Bad (moisturizing sensation)
The moisturizing sensation is the moist sensation felt when touching the skin after applying a cosmetic product to the skin.
Evaluation criteria: ◎: Very good, ◯: Good, △: Slightly bad, ×: Bad

- Evaluation of makeup application Approximately 50 mg of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was applied to the inside of the forearm and rubbed with the pad of a finger in a circular motion 40 times within an area of approximately 30 x 30 mm. Next, approximately 20 mg of liquid foundation (FANCL Liquid Foundation Bright Up UVb 06) was applied to the area where the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was applied in the same application method as the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. The spreadability and uniformity of the foundation when applied was evaluated by a panel of three experts according to the following criteria.
- Foundation spreadability Foundation spreadability refers to the feeling of being able to spread foundation onto the skin without any resistance when blending it.
Evaluation criteria: ◎: Very good, ◯: Good, △: Slightly poor, ×: Poor - Foundation uniformity Foundation uniformity refers to the state in which, after application, the foundation is spread evenly on the skin without any lumps or unevenness.
Evaluation criteria: ◎: Very good, ◯: Good, △: Slightly bad, ×: Bad

The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics containing components (A) to (C) and obtained in Examples 1 to 12 of the present invention were excellent in feel and moisturizing sensation when used, and also had excellent makeup application thereafter.
The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics obtained in Comparative Example 1, which did not contain component (B), and Comparative Examples 2 and 3, which used other water-soluble polymers instead of component (B), showed poor makeup application and made it impossible to apply foundation evenly. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics obtained in Comparative Examples 4 and 5, which did not contain component (C), were inferior in moisturizing feeling and usability, and also showed slightly inferior makeup application.

An example of a prescription is shown below.
Formulation Example 1: Serum (mass%)
Tranexamic acid 2
Diisostearyl malate 3
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1
Neopentyl glycol dicaprate 1
Dipentaerythrityl hexa(hydroxystearic acid/stearic acid/rosin acid) 0.2
Cetyl palmitate 0.5
Polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (20EO) 0.3
Sorbitan monostearate 0.2
Phytosterols 0.01
Ceramide II 0.01
2-Methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymer 0.02
Alcaligenes polysaccharides 0.01
Sodium hyaluronate 0.01
Ethylhexylglycerin 0.1
Pentylene glycol 2
Concentrated glycerin 7
Ethanol 3
Purified water 79.64

Formulation Example 2: Emulsion (mass%)
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycyrrhizic acid 2K 0.1
BG6
Dimethicone 5
Isotridecyl isononanoate 3.5
Concentrated glycerin 3
Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid 0.5
Sorbitan stearate 0.5
POE sorbitan stearate 0.3
Acrylic acid/alkyl methacrylate copolymer 0.3
2-Methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymer 0.01
Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.05
Di(isostearyl/phytosteryl) dilinoleate 0.5
Ethylhexylglycerin 0.1
Pentylene glycol 2
POE(26) Glyceryl 3
Diisostearyl malate 1
Purified water 72.14

Formulation Example 3: Cream (mass%)
Tranexamic acid 2
Concentrated glycerin 15
Macadamia nut oil 4
Dimethicone 2
Glyceryl triethylhexanoate 4
Stearic acid 4
Vegetable squalane 2
BG7
POE sorbitan stearate 2
Acrylic acid/alkyl methacrylate copolymer 0.05
2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymer 0.1
Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.05
Diisostearyl malate 5
Xanthan gum 0.05
Pentylene glycol 1.5
Diglycerin 3
Potassium hydroxide 0.01
Sorbitan stearate 1
Behenyl alcohol 2
Purified water 45.24

Claims (2)

Contains (A) to (C),
An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic, in which the mass ratio (A/B) of component A to component B is 15 or more and 500 or less.
(A) 0.1 to 5% by mass of one or more selected from tranexamic acid, tranexamic acid salts, tranexamic acid esters, tranexamic acid amides, and tranexamic acid dimers
(B) 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine/stearyl methacrylate copolymer (C) Diester of a dicarboxylic acid having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and a monohydric alcohol having 4 to 18 carbon atoms 2. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein component (C) is one or more selected from the group consisting of diisostearyl malate, diethylhexyl succinate, diethoxyethyl succinate, bis- ethoxydiglycol cyclohexanedicarboxylate, and bis-ethoxydiglycol succinate.