JP7744115B2 - cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

Article 30, paragraph 2 of the Patent Act applies. 1. Website publication date: March 26, 2018. 2. Website address: https://www.cbon.co.jp/net/c/c?ref=gp

The present invention relates to cosmetics containing ascorbic acid.

Ascorbic acid has been used in cosmetics to prevent and improve skin aging caused by ultraviolet rays, etc., and age spots and freckles caused by melanin production. In recent years, various derivatives of ascorbic acid have been developed to improve its stability, and their application to various formulations is being investigated.
However, when ascorbic acid derivatives are incorporated into cosmetics, they have problems such as poor usability due to stickiness upon application, etc. Therefore, in order to solve these problems, attempts have been made to improve the usability of topical skin preparations containing ascorbic acid derivatives.

For example, Patent Document 1 describes a method for reducing the sticky feeling characteristic of ascorbic acid glucoside by blending a specific polymeric silicone into an oil-in-water topical skin preparation containing a fatty acid soap containing ascorbic acid glucoside.

However, the above method requires the use of a specific polymeric silicone, and depending on the formulation, the polymeric silicone may become less stable due to aggregation, precipitation, or floating. This can lead to undesirable changes in quality, particularly in formulations such as clear lotions, which can impair the transparency of the formulation and affect its appearance.

As such, previous attempts have not been able to fully reduce the stickiness of ascorbic acid derivatives, and further improvements are desired.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2007-314455

The objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic product that contains an ascorbic acid derivative, yet has reduced stickiness and a pleasant feel when used.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
an ascorbic acid derivative,
polyoxyalkylene glycols, including PPG-24 glycereth-24 or PEG/PPG-5/30 copolymers;
may also contain

In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention,
The ascorbic acid derivative may comprise 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid or ascorbyl glucoside.

In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention,
It may also contain a non-polar oily component and a non-ionic surfactant.

In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention,
The nonionic surfactant may contain a fatty acid polyglyceryl.

In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention,
The polyoxyalkylene glycol may be contained in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more and 4% by weight or less.

In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention,
The ascorbic acid derivative may be contained in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more and 3% by weight or less.

The present invention makes it possible to provide cosmetics that contain ascorbic acid derivatives, yet have reduced stickiness and a pleasant feel when used.

The cosmetic material of this embodiment may be a transparent or translucent liquid. Examples of the cosmetic material include lotion, serum, and emulsion.

The cosmetic may contain an ascorbic acid derivative and a polyoxyalkylene glycol. The polyoxyalkylene glycol may include PPG-24 glycereth-24 and/or PEG/PPG-5/30 copolymer. The cosmetic may not contain an oily component. If the cosmetic contains an oily component, an emulsion-type cosmetic may be provided. The polyoxyalkylene glycol may be contained in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more and 4% by weight or less, but may be further limited to a lower limit of 0.2% by weight and an upper limit of 3% by weight. The ascorbic acid derivative may be contained in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more and 3% by weight or less, but may be further limited to a lower limit of 1% by weight and an upper limit of 2% by weight.

The ascorbic acid derivative may contain 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and/or ascorbyl glucoside. Because 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is stable at a pH of 4.0 to 5.0, it is beneficial to provide a cosmetic product with a pH of 4.0 to 5.0 when the ascorbic acid derivative is 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid. Furthermore, because ascorbyl glucoside is stable at a pH of 6.0 to 7.0, it is beneficial to provide a cosmetic product with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 when the ascorbic acid derivative is ascorbyl glucoside. Furthermore, when comparing 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid has less stickiness than ascorbyl glucoside. While magnesium ascorbyl phosphate may be used as the ascorbic acid derivative, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate tends to be sticky. Furthermore, the inventors' investigations revealed that when magnesium ascorbyl phosphate was used in cosmetics consisting of an emulsion, it was found to have inferior storage stability compared to 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside. This is presumably due to the influence of the phosphate groups and Mg contained in magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

As mentioned above, cosmetics may contain oily components, in which case they may contain surfactants such as nonionic surfactants. The use of such surfactants makes it possible to dissolve the oily components in the aqueous components. As will be shown in the examples below, from the perspective of storage stability, it is beneficial to use non-polar oily components as the oily components.

From the standpoint of storage stability, it is advantageous to use fatty acid polyglyceryls as nonionic surfactants. Examples of fatty acid polyglyceryls that can be used include polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, and polyglyceryl-10 stearate, but it is particularly advantageous to use polyglyceryl-10 oleate and polyglyceryl-10 isostearate.

Examples of non-polar liquid oils include liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, ozokerite, squalane, squalene, pristane, paraffin, isoparaffin, ceresin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, and hydrogenated polyisobutene. However, among non-polar liquid oils, it is preferable to use squalane from the standpoints of moisturizing properties and feel when used.

Polar oily ingredients other than non-polar liquid oils such as squalane may include diisostearyl malate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid esters, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, and tri(caprylic/capric)glyceryl.

The cosmetic preparation of this embodiment may contain a solvent, and purified water, for example, can be used as the solvent.

[Example]
Next, an embodiment of the present invention will be described.

Sample liquids (liquid cosmetics) described below were prepared as Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. The aqueous components in each sample liquid are as shown in Table 1 below. The numerical values for each component shown in Tables 1 to 5 for these Examples and Comparative Examples indicate the weight percentage of the entire sample liquid.

For the components shown in Table 1, the following products were used.
Methylparaben: Mekxance M (Ueno Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)
EDTA-2Na: Dissolvine Na2-S (Akzo Nobel Co., Ltd.)
BG: Daicel Corporation (1,3-butylene glycol (13BGUK))
Glycerin: Concentrated glycerin for cosmetics (Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Industry Co., Ltd.)
Sodium hyaluronate: Bio-sodium hyaluronate HA12N (Shiseido Co., Ltd.)

Liquid cosmetics were prepared by adding the components in Table 2 below to the aqueous components shown in Table 1, and then adding a pH adjuster and purified water (Examples 1 to 5). Sodium citrate and citric acid were used as pH adjusters, and appropriate amounts were added. Purified water was added in an amount that would make the sample liquid 100% by weight. In these examples and comparative examples, "trisodium citrate (crystal) 50M (Showa Kako Co., Ltd.)" was used as the sodium citrate, and "citric acid (crystal) 32M (Showa Kako Co., Ltd.)" was used as the citric acid.

Liquid cosmetics were prepared by adding the components in Table 3 below to the aqueous components shown in Table 1, and then adding a pH adjuster and purified water (Examples 6 to 10). As in Examples 1 to 5, sodium citrate and citric acid were used as pH adjusters, and appropriate amounts of these were added. Purified water was added in an amount that would make the total weight percent of the sample liquid 100%.

Sample solutions were prepared by adding the components in Table 4 below to the aqueous components shown in Table 1, and then adding a pH adjuster and purified water (Comparative Examples 1 to 3). As in Examples 1 to 10, sodium citrate and citric acid were used as pH adjusters, and appropriate amounts of these were added. Purified water was added in an amount that would make the total weight percent of the sample solution 100%.

For the components shown in Tables 2 to 4, the following products were used.
[Ascorbic acid derivatives]
3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid: VC ethyl (Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.)
Ascorbyl glucoside: AS-G (Hayashibara Co., Ltd.)
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate: Ascorbic acid PM (Showa Denko K.K.)
[Polyoxyalkylene glycol]
PPG-24 Glycereth-24: Unilube 50TG-32 (NOF Corporation)
Poloxamer 184: Pronon #184R (NOF Corporation)
PEG/PPG-5/30 copolymer: Newpol PE-61 (Sanyo Chemical Industries)
PPG-9 Diglyceryl: Unilube DGP-700F (NOF Corporation)
PEG-8: PEG#400 (NOF Corporation)
[Oily ingredients]
Squalane: Squalane (Kishimoto Special Cod Liver Oil Industry Co., Ltd.)
Diisostearyl malate: Cosmol 222 (Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.)
[Nonionic surfactant]
Polyglyceryl-10 oleate: Decaglyn 1-OV (Nippon Surfactant Industry Co., Ltd.)
Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate: S Face 10G-IS (Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)
PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil: Emanon CH-60(K) (Kao Corporation)

The following experiments were conducted on each sample solution in Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

[Storage stability]
The samples stored at 40°C for one month were compared with the samples stored at 5°C and evaluated for transparency by visual inspection.
◎: Almost no change in transparency ○: There is a change, but the degree is small △: The degree of change is somewhat large ×: The degree of change is large and transparency is low

[Sticky when applied]
The average score was obtained from a four-point scale rated by five expert panelists.
4: Stickiness is significantly reduced 3: Stickiness is reduced 2: Stickiness is not reduced very much 1: Stickiness is hardly reduced at all

[Penetration feeling]
The average score was obtained from a four-point scale rated by five expert panelists.
4: Very good penetration 3: Good penetration 2: Poor penetration 1: Poor penetration

The results of the above experiments are shown in Tables 5 to 7 below.
In Example 4, the results were not very good in terms of stickiness and penetration, but this is thought to be because the amount of PPG-24 glycereth-24 was 0.05 wt%, which was a very small amount. However, it is noteworthy that even though the content of PPG-24 glycereth-24 was only 0.05 wt%, it was able to obtain a rating of "2" rather than the lowest rating of "1". In Example 5, the storage stability was poor, but this is thought to be due to the amount of PPG-24 glycereth-24 being high at 5 wt%.

As can be seen from Examples 1 and 3, setting the PPG-24 glycereth-24 content in the range of 1% to 3% by weight is beneficial in that it allows stickiness and penetration to reach the highest possible value of "4," and is particularly beneficial when the cosmetic is used as a beauty serum, where slightly lower storage stability in terms of transparency is less of a problem. On the other hand, when the PPG-24 glycereth-24 content is lowered to 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, as in Example 2, it is possible to achieve high storage stability in terms of transparency while maintaining relatively good stickiness and penetration, and is therefore particularly beneficial when the cosmetic is used as a lotion.

The results of Examples 2 and 4 confirmed that reducing the content of PPG-24 glycereth-24 increases storage stability, but makes it difficult to achieve the effects of stickiness and penetration. Furthermore, it was also confirmed that increasing the content of PPG-24 glycereth-24 to approximately 5% by weight, as in Example 5, makes it difficult to achieve the effects of stickiness and penetration (the effects are reduced).

Although the storage stability of Example 9 was not excellent, this is thought to be due to the use of diisostearyl malate, a polar oily component. However, good results were also obtained in Example 9 with respect to stickiness and penetration feel. Furthermore, as can be seen from the comparison between Example 1, which used PPG-24 glycereth-24, and Example 8, which used PEG/PPG-5/30 copolymer, the use of PPG-24 glycereth-24 yielded superior results in terms of stickiness and penetration feel compared to the use of PEG/PPG-5/30 copolymer.

In the comparative example, despite the use of 1% by weight of polyoxyalkylene glycol, the stickiness and penetration feeling were poor. When poloxamer 184 and PPG-9 diglyceryl were used, the storage stability was also poor. When PEG-8 was used, the stickiness and penetration feeling were rated "1", the lowest. From these results, it was confirmed that, among polyoxyalkylene glycols, the use of PPG-24 glycereth-24 and PEG/PPG-5/30 copolymer is particularly beneficial.

The above-mentioned embodiments and examples are merely examples intended to explain the invention described in the claims. Furthermore, the claims as originally filed may be modified as appropriate within the scope of the patent specification, and the scope may also be expanded and modified.

Claims (5)

0.5% by weight or more and 3% by weight or less of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid;
0.1% by weight or more and 4% by weight or less of PPG-24 glycereth-24;
Contains
It does not contain D-pantothenyl alcohol and is a transparent or translucent liquid,
It does not contain ascorbyl glucoside as an ascorbic acid derivative,
A liquid cosmetic having a pH of 4.0 to 5.0 ( excluding Rosa canina fruit extract, Aspalathus linearis leaf extract, and gels). The liquid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, containing a non-polar oily component and a nonionic surfactant. The liquid cosmetic preparation according to claim 2, wherein the nonionic surfactant contains a fatty acid polyglyceryl. The liquid cosmetic preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 3, containing 1% by weight or more and 3% by weight or less of PPG-24 glycereth-24. The liquid cosmetic preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 3, containing 0.1% by weight or more and 0.5% by weight or less of PPG-24 glycereth-24.