JPS5822576B2 - Kakoushiori Monono Seizouhouhou - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] The present invention involves aligning two crimped yarns that have been heated, heat-set, and untwisted in adjacent false-twisting devices of a serial false-twisting machine, and then continuously mixed them. Made of mixed thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament false-twisted crimped yarn obtained by post-winding, it is bulky, has a soft surface touch, and has firmness and tension.
The present invention relates to a method for producing a thick textured yarn fabric with good texture.

Conventionally, thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn was heated,
Weaving using false twisted crimped yarn that has been heat-set and untwisted,
Fabrics treated with relaxation heat and dyed exhibit excellent bulk and stretch properties, and are widely used as processed yarn fabrics for clothing materials.

However, even with such textured yarn fabrics, especially thick fabrics with medium or thicker fabrics, the texture was considerably inferior to that of wool fabrics, which are natural fibers.

In other words, fabrics using thin multifilaments with a single fiber denier emphasize the soft texture, but lose the stiffness, while woven fabrics using thick multifilaments have stiffness but have a rough and stiff texture.

In addition, in order to eliminate these drawbacks, the total fineness is 250 to 40.
False-twisted crimped yarn is obtained by false-twisting mixed multifilament yarns made of thermoplastic synthetic fibers of 0 denier with a high number of false twists under low tension and then additionally twisting them at 10.0 to 200 T/M. There are some fabrics that use this method, but the single-step false twisting process for thick denier yarns of 250 denier or more has a limit to the number of twists, and the crimps are coarse and the fabric surface lacks fineness (which may impair the appearance). However, it also had the disadvantage of poor bulkiness.

Furthermore, a method has been considered in which multiple multifilaments of 150 denier or less with different finenesses are individually false-twisted and then arranged and twisted together, but the gloss and dyeing density vary depending on the single fiber denier. Since the fibers were different, unevenness due to twisting was noticeable, and the thick denier filaments were bunched together and exposed on the yarn surface, which was unfavorable to the touch.

The object of the present invention is to improve upon the drawbacks of the prior art and provide a method for obtaining a wool-like fabric having a soft surface touch and excellent elasticity and elasticity. be.

The present invention has the following configuration to achieve the above object.

In other words, two multifilament yarns that have been heat-set and untwisted are heated to a twist number of 2200 T/M or more using adjacent false-twisting devices of a serial false-twisting machine, and are then mixed continuously. Three or more types of filaments of different fineness are mixed, the total fineness of which is obtained by spinning and winding is 220 to 440 deniers, and the maximum denier of the single fiber filament is 4 deniers or more, and the minimum denier is 3
A multifilament false twisted crimped yarn of mixed thermoplastic synthetic fibers of different fineness is used for both the weft and the warp and weft, and has an average single fiber denier of 2.2 to 4.2 in consideration of yarn bending rigidity. Relax with the woven gray fabric,
This is a method for producing processed yarn fabrics that involves scouring, widening, and heat setting.

Note that the average single fiber denier taking into consideration the yarn bending rigidity mentioned above is calculated by the following formula.

However, dm: average single fiber denier D: total fineness (denier) of false twisted crimped yarn di: single fiber denier ni: single fiber di number of filaments in denier l: type of single fiber denier As a result of extensive research into thick fabrics using curled yarn, we have come to the conclusion that in order to produce thick fabrics with good texture and excellent appearance, we must pay special attention to the following factors.

In other words, by making the feel of the cloth surface (surface touch) flexible,
Of course, it is necessary to weave with appropriate fabric density and structure in order to provide bulk and appropriate waist and tension, and to sufficiently develop crimp in the fabric. number, size of constituent single fiber denier and its distribution state,
It is necessary to make the crimp development force (crimping fastness) and torque characteristics appropriate under the restraint of the fabric.

First, in order to obtain a soft surface touch, the thinner the single fiber denier is, the more effective the number of crimps.

However, if the single fiber denier is made too thin, the waist and tension of the fabric will be significantly reduced, so the balance with the waist and tension must be considered.

The inventors measured the bending repulsion force (stress) when the fabric was strongly bent as a physical quantity related to the stiffness and tension of the fabric, and confirmed that this value corresponded well to the sensory value. It has been found that the bending repulsion force of a woven fabric is proportional to the average single fiber denier (g) when the total fineness is constant, taking yarn bending rigidity into consideration.

In other words, Figure 1 shows the bending repulsion when a diagonal fabric is woven in the weft direction, in which polyester false-twisted crimped yarn with a total fineness of 300 denier is woven into the warp with polyester filament yarn of 75 denier and 36 filaments as the weft. This figure shows the relationship between the force D15 and the average single fiber denier dm in consideration of yarn bending rigidity, and the two have a proportional relationship.

The cloth bending repulsion force D15 referred to here is as shown in FIG. This is the value obtained by measuring the bending stress of unit medium force at the time of compression with a curvature of 15 crrL'.

Calculation of the curvature is expressed by the following equation, where the distance between the sample stage 2 and the compression plate 3 is 1°, and the thickness of the cloth sample is t.

Therefore, in order to maintain proper stiffness and tension as a woven fabric, it is necessary to set the average single fiber denier dm in consideration of yarn bending rigidity to an appropriate range.

By the way, for thick fabrics for outerwear, judging from the thickness and basis weight of fabrics often used for autumn/winter applications, the total fineness of the constituent yarns should be between 220 and 440 deniers. In general, women's clothing requires a relatively soft texture in order to have elasticity, while men's clothing requires a particularly elastic texture. It is necessary that the fiber denier value is between 2.2 and 4.2.

If the average single fiber denier is less than 2.2, the stiffness, tension, and elasticity will be significantly reduced, and on the other hand, if the average single fiber denier is 4.2 or more, the texture will be rough and hard, which is undesirable.

On the other hand, as a result of the analysis of surface touch, it was found that single fiber denier, number of crimps, and crimp fastness are the most relevant factors, but regarding the relationship with single fiber denier, fabrics using mixed yarns of different fineness are in a mixed state. Although it depends on the situation, it has also been found that in the case of random mixing, the smaller the average single fiber denier 1, which is calculated by dividing the total fineness by the number of filaments, the softer the feel.

Therefore, in order to obtain a fabric with appropriate stiffness, tension, and a flexible surface touch, it is necessary to use a multilayer fabric with a difference in single fiber denier from the relationship between the average single fiber denier dm and the average single fiber denier d, which takes yarn bending rigidity into account. It is better to mix filament yarn, and the maximum denier of single fiber filament is 4 denier or more.

It is necessary that the minimum denier is 3 deniers or less, more preferably the maximum denier is 5 deniers or more, and the minimum denier is 2.5 deniers or less.

In addition, the number of crimp increases the thickness of the fabric as well as the surface touch.

That is, as the number of false twists decreases, the surface appearance of the fabric becomes rough, and the torque of the crimped yarn increases, resulting in a rough, highly grained texture, which significantly impairs the appearance.

Moreover, in order to correct this, if the width is increased excessively and heat setting is performed, the appearance becomes good, but the bulkiness becomes extremely poor.

As a result of examining the number of crimp to improve the surface appearance, we found that the number of crimp is 2200T/2 for a good fabric surface.
It is necessary to make it more than M, and for this purpose 220~4
In order to obtain a large denier false twisted crimped yarn of 40 denier, it is necessary to divide it into multifilaments with a thickness that can be processed with a small number of false twists of 2200 T/M or more, and after false twisting, to combine the yarns. .

Next, regarding the mixing of multifilaments with different single fiber deniers, differences in single fiber deniers cause density differences and gloss differences due to differences in dyeing speed, and the mixed distribution state of filaments of different fineness may remain unchanged. It appears as a difference in concentration, and if thick single denier yarns gather together and appear on the surface, it will impair the surface touch, so it is necessary to mix them randomly and uniformly. Furthermore, it is desirable to mix at least three types of single fiber deniers.

When the two types are mixed, the difference in the fineness of the fine filaments increases, and the difference in crimp characteristics also increases, which will have a negative effect on the surface appearance and surface touch of the fabric, so it should be used to contribute to the raft touch. A multifilament with a fineness that is between 3 denier or less and a thicker filament of 4 denier or more to give elasticity and tension is mixed, and the crimp property and fineness are improved. It is necessary to avoid making the difference too extreme.

Furthermore, as a method for mixing three or more types of filaments with different finenesses, multifilaments with different single fibers are heated, heat-set, and untwisted in adjacent false-twisting devices of a series false-twisting machine. Either a single yarn of the same fineness is fed to one side and a multifilament of a different fineness to the other is fed to each false twisting device. You can feed multifilaments of mixed fineness to each false twisting device, but the key is to use three or more types of filaments of different fineness, a maximum denier of 4 deniers or more, and a minimum denier of 3 deniers. The size of the single fiber denier may be set according to the intended fabric.

Further, the fineness in the case of false twisting is preferably 220 denier or less.

This is because, as mentioned above, in order to form a good surface, the number of crimps must be 2,200 T/M or more, and if the yarn is thicker than this, the number of crimps must be 2,200 T/M or more. This is because double twists occur continuously, making processing extremely unstable and undesirable.

In this case, the false twisting conditions are normally the same as those used for processing thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments. It is convenient in that a processing machine can be used as is, and even after the fibers are mixed, the number of crimps is the same, so a uniform effect can be obtained.

If the fineness during false twisting of the two sizes is extremely different, there will be a large difference in crimp characteristics even under the same pressurizing conditions, which will have an unfavorable effect on the surface appearance.

That is, when a thick multifilament and a thin multifilament are processed with the same number of false twists, the twist angles of the two are different and the torque characteristics of the latter are considerably larger than those of the former.

Therefore, the denier ratio of both is 50:50 to 40:60.
A range of is preferred.

Note that the twisting directions are not necessarily the same in both cases, and for models that can be twisted in different directions, false twisting in different directions is more effective in obtaining yarn with low torque.

The two crimped yarns obtained as described above are then pulled together and mixed.There are known methods for mixing fibers that utilize air force, electric force, etc. In order to mix the fibers, it is advantageous to use air force, and it is reasonable to continuously perform the mixing using a mixing device attached to the false twisting machine.

In other words, the fibers can be mixed under a low tension of 0.04 F/d or less with good crimp expression immediately after processing, compared to when the fibers are mixed in a separate process, so even if the air flow rate is small, the fiber mixing effect is sufficient. It has the advantage of being able to provide stable results.

Furthermore, the blending effect provides cohesiveness to the thick denier false twisted crimped yarn and reduces residual torque.
Ordinary thick denier false-twisted yarns are additionally twisted to improve weavability, reducing residual torque and providing some cohesiveness.

That is, the processed yarn of the present invention can be used to weave relatively easy-to-weave fabrics with coarse density without twisting.

The gray fabric woven using the resulting composite false-twisted crimped yarn as the weft or both the warp and weft is scoured and relaxed.
The conditions in this case may be the relaxed conditions for normal textured yarn fabrics.

After that, heat set to a suitable width and finish.

The fibers used in the present invention may be thermoplastic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, polypropylene, etc., but polyester fibers are preferred in order to obtain fibers with excellent bulk and good texture.

In addition, it is an easily applicable technique to mix fibers with different dyeability and fibers with different gloss to create a marbling effect.

Example 1 In a dual false twisting machine, a polyester multifilament yarn of 150 denier 4 was attached to one of the adjacent false twisting devices.
8 filament and a polyester multifilament yarn of 75 denier and 36 filament of the same type (polyester multifilament yarn of 75 denier and 15 filament) are aligned and supplied, and both spindle rotation speed is 1.
50,000 rpm, false twisting temperature 215℃, number of false twists 2445T/M
Two crimped yarns falsely twisted with overfeed + 1.0% were aligned, and an air pressure of 3kgG/c4 was applied under a tension of 0.02 P/d using an air mixer attached to the false twisting machine. After the fibers were mixed continuously using the fibers, the fibers were wound up.

Composite false twisted crimped yarn of over 300 denier (obtained by
The average single fiber denier considering bending rigidity = 3.33) was used for both the warp and weft, and the fabric was woven with a 2/2 diagonal weave with a warp density of 55 fibers/inch and a weft density of 52 fibers/inch.

Next, the obtained gray fabric was treated with a nonionic activator 3'? /h,
After relaxing scouring in 98℃ boiling water for 60 minutes and drying,
The width was widened and preset was performed at 180°C.

Thereafter, high-pressure dyeing was carried out using disperse dyes at 130°C for 60 minutes, and after drying, final setting was performed at 170°C.

The obtained fabric was a thick textured yarn fabric with a soft surface touch, excellent elasticity and tension, and a good texture.

Example 2 In a dual false twisting machine, polyester multifilament yarn 70 denier 10 filaments and 75 denier 24 filaments are aligned in one of the adjacent false twisting devices, and the same (polyester multifilament yarn 75 denier) is placed in the other side. A 36 filament and a 75 denier 48 filament were supplied together, and both had a spindle rotation speed of 16,5000 km, a false twist temperature of 215°C, and a false twist number of 2480T.
/M, two false-twisted yarns false-twisted with overfeed + 2.0% are aligned to have a tension of 0.025 f/d, and the air mixer attached to the false-twisting machine is used to mix 3 to 9/M. c.
The fibers were continuously mixed using r71 pressure air and then wound up.

The thus obtained composite false twisted crimped yarn of over 295 denier (
The average single fiber denier in consideration of bending rigidity (-3.32) was used for both the warp and weft, and pine weaving was carried out at a warp density of 56/inch and a weft density of 54/inch.

The obtained gray fabric was subjected to relaxing scouring, presetting, dyeing, and finishing setting in the same manner as in Example 1.

The resulting fabric has a soft surface touch, firmness, and firmness.
The result is a thick textured yarn fabric with a wool-like texture and excellent bulk.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 shows the average single fiber tenier dm of the crimped yarn and fabric bending repulsion force (DI5
) is a diagram showing the relationship between FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram showing a method of measuring cloth bending repulsive force (DI5). 1: sample cloth, 2: sample stand, 3: compression plate.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. By means of adjacent false twisting devices of a dual-type false twisting machine,
A total yarn obtained by heating two multifilament yarns with a twist number of 2200 T/M or more, heat setting, and untwisting, and then aligning two strands of equal thickness y, mixing them continuously, and then winding them. Three or more types of filaments with different finenesses are mixed, each having a fineness of 220 to 440 deniers, and the maximum denier of the single fiber filament is 4 deniers or more and the minimum denier is 3 deniers or less, and the yarn bending rigidity is taken into consideration. A gray fabric woven using mixed thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament false twisted crimped yarn of different finenesses with an average single fiber denier of 2.2 to 4.2 for the weft or both the warp and weft is relaxed, refined, and made into a width. 1. A method for producing processed yarn fabric, which comprises drawing out and heat setting. However, the average single fiber denier considering the yarn bending rigidity mentioned above is calculated by the following formula. dm: Average single fiber denier D: Total fineness (denier) of false twisted crimped yarn di: Single fiber denier ni: Single fiber di Number of filaments in denier I: Type of single fiber denier