JPS5947748B2 - Manufacturing method of slub adjustment vertical knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a slab control warp knitted fabric using a specially processed yarn in which the direction of torque and the bulk portion vary irregularly in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. An object of the present invention is to provide a particularly classy slab-style vertical willow knitted fabric and a method for producing the same.

Conventionally, in order to obtain a vertically knitted fabric with a curly texture, synthetic filament yarns are strongly twisted, temporarily set, S-direction heating yarns and two-direction heating yarns are randomly arranged, and after knitting, graining is performed. How to stand it up and after woolly processing synthetic filament yarn,
There is a method in which the fibers are separated, and the S-direction woolly split yarn and the two-direction woolly split yarn are randomly arranged and knitted, and then a graining process is performed.

Among these, the former has a small torque, cannot obtain a high-quality Yangryu grain, and is expensive to manufacture, so it is rarely used. Currently used as the best method to obtain vertical stitches.

To explain the manufacturing method and problems of the latter method, a coolie having an S-direction torque of 10 to 30 deniers is made of processed synthetic yarn.

Coolie with monofilament yarn and Z-direction torque.

Monofilament yarns are alternately arranged under tension, and non-torque multifilament yarns are alternately knitted using a warp knitting machine, and subjected to graining treatment to obtain a curled warp knitted fabric having irregularities in the longitudinal direction. It is.

The products obtained by this method use woolly split 10-30 denier monofilament yarn to provide the torque required to create the grain, resulting in excessively crisp, coarse and stiff crimp warp knitted fabrics, and the texture is also poor. Either the concave portion or the convex portion is continuous and monotonous in the vertical direction.

This texture and appearance narrows the range of uses, diversifies,
It is not possible to adequately meet the needs of increasingly sophisticated consumers, and improvements are required.

In addition, in order to obtain the minimum torque necessary for graining, woolly split fibers with 10 to 30 deniers and monofilament with S
Since two types of yarns, directional torque yarn and Z-direction torque yarn, are used, it is extremely difficult to improve the crisp feel and coarse/hard feel, and there is a limit.

Furthermore, in woolly splitting production, the splitting workability is poor and it is difficult to supply split yarns of sufficient and stable quality.

Even in the rough warping process, it is necessary to devise ways to alternately arrange several S-direction torque yarns and several Z-direction torque yarns, which requires work time and labor.

The present invention has been achieved as a result of intensive studies aimed at improving these conventional drawbacks and providing a high-class slab-toned vertical willow knitted fabric that has not been possible before, and a method for manufacturing the same. It has the following configuration.

That is, in the present invention, in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, a bulky part a having an S-direction torque and a bulky part having a Z-direction torque sandwich a non-torque part C having a smaller bulk than a and b. Then, the processed yarn is circularly formed or the torque parts a and b are repeatedly formed in the order of a-c-b-c,
After using 100 yarns on a warp knitting machine or inter-knitting with filament yarns or spun-like yarns other than the above-mentioned base, a grain raising process is performed, and the resulting product has a grain size of 5 cm vertically. Above, the width Q is in the range of 1 to 0.5 (m, the length/width ratio is 50 times or more, the knitted fabric has irregular unevenness in the warp and width directions, and at the same time the apparent thickness of the yarn It has an appearance of 4 to 5 different types of stitches arranged irregularly, combining changes in the direction of torque and changes in the direction of torque, and has a soft texture, making it an unprecedented slab control warp knitted fabric. .

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The specially processed yarn used in the present invention is obtained by the process shown in FIG.

The multifilament yarn 1 in FIG.
It is wound up.

During this time, the air temporary nozzles 4 and 5 are operated alternately and at intervals to obtain special processed yarns having the configurations shown in FIGS. 2-1 and 2-2.

Figure 2-1 shows the processed yarn form when the temporary air twist nozzles 4 and 5 are operated in succession alternately.
In the S-direction torque section, al with a small bulk, a2 with a large bulk, and in the Z-direction torque section, bl with a small bulk and b2 with a large bulk are (al-a2-al-bl-b2-b
The yarn configurations repeated in the order of l) are shown.

In addition, in Fig. 2-2, only the temporary air twist nozzle 4 is operated for a certain period of time, then stopped, and a time period in which no temporary twist is set is then set, and then only the air temporary twist nozzle 5 is operated for a certain period of time, and then stopped. , which shows the textured yarn form obtained by repeating the processing order in which the time for not temporarily twisting is set again.

The shape is different from that in Figure 2-1, and it has the smallest bulky uncurved object C (al a2-al cbl
b2b1c) is repeated.

In this way, a specially processed yarn with a mixture of S-direction torque section, Z-direction torque section, and non-torque section in one thread, and varying bulk height, is used for vertical knitted fabrics, and the purpose In order to achieve this, we conducted various studies and determined the length of each part of the yarn depending on the knitting structure 0 knitting ratio l, that is, 2a, +a2
, 2b1+b2C was found to be important.

The relationship between the length of each part of the yarn, grain properties, and texture of the knitted fabric will be explained.

Table 1 shows the length of torque part a and the length of b, respectively, a=2al
+a2, b=2b1+b2, which shows the practicality from the viewpoint of grain size and texture of nine levels A to ■, which are combinations with the length of the non-torque portion C.

The combination A-P provides a practical texture and texture,
G~■ are poor in practicality.

That is, the combinations A, B, and C are in the range of slab control warp knitted fabrics with an emphasized processed yarn texture, and the vertical grain size of A is 0.3 c1rL to 50 cIrt, and B is 50 cIrt. ~150crIL, C is 150cIrL or more, and A, B, and C increase in the order, and the combination glue, E.

F is in the range of a slab control warp knitted fabric with a unique mixed texture of processed yarn texture and raw yarn texture, and the vertical size of the grain is D of 50 to 150 F. , E and F are 150
, and by changing D to E and then D to F, it can be made into a dog.

The horizontal size of the grain is 0.1 to 0.5 cr.
It is within the range of IL.

On the other hand, the combinations C, H, and I have a strong raw yarn feel and little slub effect, and are in a range lacking in practicality.

From the above results, considering the practical aspects of texture and appearance, the size of the grain should be 5 crrL or more in the vertical direction and 0.1 to 0.1 in the horizontal direction.
0.5 crrL is desirable, and the vertical/width ratio of the grain is preferably at least 50 times or more.

Here, we will explain the yarn usage and knitting structure that can maximize the practical slub effect and crepe effect.

As for the warp knitting machine, a normal knitting machine can be used, but from the viewpoint of the thickness and stability of the fabric, 2-bar or 3-bar, especially 2-bar is preferred.

When using 100% specially processed yarn, double denby, half, and satin are preferable for the knitting structure, but since the fabric tends to be too thick and the material cost is high, it is recommended to use special processed yarns and non-torque flat yarns. Alternate knitting is definitely desirable.

In this case, the knitting structure should be double denby, half, and satin, which are two-bar one stitches, and if a specially processed crepe yarn is used for the front bar and a non-torque flat yarn is used for the back bar, good crimp length can be obtained. A knitted fabric is obtained.

Further, a mixture of specially processed yarn and flat yarn may be used for the front bar, while flat yarn may be used for the bank bar.

FIG. 3-1 shows a stitch diagram of a half-structure using the specially processed yarn as the front yarn Yf and a flat yarn as the back yarn Yb.

On the other hand, it is also conceivable that the threads used for the front bar and back bar are reversed from the above.

In this case, in the stitch diagram of the reverse half weave in Figure 3-2, the front yarn Yf is a flat yarn, the back yarn Yb is a specially processed yarn, and the specially processed yarn is a crepe yarn.
The structure is surrounded by flat yarns, and the grain-producing torque disappears as the bulk of the yarn inside the knitted fabric, making it difficult to obtain a crepe effect.

However, for example, in a knitted structure that includes many chain stitches, such as the Queen's cord structure, as shown in Figure 3-3, a flat yarn is used as the front yarn Yf, and a back yarn Yb is used as the front yarn Yf.
Even if a specially processed yarn is used, the crepe yarn has a large binding force on the sinker loop, and a crepe effect can be obtained.

Regarding the fineness, the total value of the fineness of the yarns used for the front bar and the bank bar is in the range of 40 to 150 deniers, particularly in the range of 60 to 100 deniers, which is optimal in terms of the thickness of the fabric, drapability, and usage.

Next, the slab-like effect and crepe effect in the present invention will be explained in more detail.

The yarn form of the specially textured yarn used in the present invention is shown in FIG. The knitting form shown in FIG. 4 is obtained.

In other words, although only the needle loop was extracted, Figure 4 a and b
, c, d, and e, a is a stitch with a small bulky torque in the S direction, and b is a stitch with a small bulk of S direction torque.
C is a stitch with a large bulky torque in the direction of torque, C is a stitch with a small bulky torque in the non-torque direction, d is a stitch with a small bulky height in a Z direction torque, and e is a stitch with a large bulky height in a Z direction torque. As shown, five types of stitches a to e or four different types of stitches a, b, d, and e can be obtained.

In warp knitted fabrics, stitches are formed in the longitudinal direction, so these 4 to 5 types of stitches are formed in succession after forming the same type of stitches within the range corresponding to each yarn length. Repeatedly changing into different forms that appear.

This phenomenon will be explained in detail using the model shown in FIG.

Figure 5 shows wales in the horizontal direction and courses in the vertical direction, with each square representing one dollar loop, and the specially processed yarn is randomly distributed, that is, the period of the torque direction and bulk height are irregular. This figure shows how the five types of needle loops described above are continuous when the 15 yarns shown by I to Y arranged in the figure are knitted in a half weave.

The form display symbols of the needle loop are as shown in Table 2.
The model of the specially processed yarn is shown in Figure 6.

Taking a single thread as an example, as shown in Figure 6 (a+a,
The needle loop form formed by the yarn a with one circulation of al c-b1b2 bl c) is shown in order. The needle loop is surrounded by the large frame in Figure 5-1, and (112222222222211000334
44444444433000).

Also, regarding the thread C, the same is true for the thread A (222222
2211000334444444444330001
A loop is formed in the order of 122).

C of the wale indicates that needle loops formed by yarn A and yarn C are alternately connected.

In this Figure 5-1, first of all, to talk about the slub-like effect, in the part where 2 and 4 are continuous in both the vertical and horizontal directions of the needle loop form, the bulk of the yarn is large, and the cover factor is low as a knitted fabric. A large portion, and a portion where 0.1, 1.3, or 0.1.3 in the needle loop form is continuous, is a portion where the bulk of the yarn is small and the cover factor is small.

In other words, areas with a large cover factor produce a slab-like effect.

Next, talking about the crepe effect, the S-direction torque acts on the part where 1 and 2 of the needle loop form are continuous, and the Z-direction torque acts on the part where 3 and 4 of the needle loop form continue, and the crepe effect is applied. It becomes the driving force for expression and transforms the knitted fabric.

When 0 in needle loop form continues, (1, 2) and (3, 4) are arranged 1 in a torque balanced state.
If the knitted fabric is folded, the knitted fabric will not be deformed and the crepe effect will hardly be obtained.

However, depending on the arrangement state, only a change in the bulk of the yarn, that is, a slab-like effect can be obtained.

Figure 5-2 shows a case in which a half-structure is knitted by alternately arranging non-torque flat yarns with each of the specially processed yarns in a similar manner. The ratio of the needle loop form O is set to dog, and the crepe effect and slab effect are the same as in Fig. 5-1, but in contrast to the processed yarn texture in Fig. 5-1, Fig. 5-2 shows The difference is that it has a new texture that is intermediate between processed yarn and flat yarn.

Here, if the conventional tricot style tricot is shown in a similar manner, it is as shown in Figure 5-3, and it is possible to see whether 1 or 3 in the form of needle loops are continuous, or 1 and 3 are connected alternately. There are three ways.

It is shown that the unevenness is constant in the longitudinal direction, and the bulk of the yarn is also uniform and monotonous, which clearly shows the uniqueness of the warp knitted fabric according to the present invention.

The slub-like effect and crepe effect in the present invention have been explained above using a model.Next, the degree of appearance of each effect, that is, the magnitude, will be explained in relation to the characteristics of the specially processed yarn.

The appearance of the slab effect depends on the apparent thickness and length of the threads that appear as slabs.

This apparent thickness is calculated as follows: Fa > Fc X 2 , Fb > It was found that the slab tone effect was emphasized in the Fc X 2 range.

However, the required appearance and texture range is wide and is not limited to this range.

In addition, the length of the yarn slab shape is 5 cm to 50 cm in knitted fabric.
A range of cIrL is desirable, and when the knitting rate K is expressed as yarn length required for knitting/knitted fabric length, the lengths of specially processed yarn a part and b part are KXo, 05 to KX0.5 ([111 Range is preferred.

The ratio of these apparent thicknesses and the length of each part can be changed depending on the number of single yarns of the supplied raw yarn and temporary twist conditions.

Next, the crepe effect is determined by the length of the torque parts a and b and the magnitude of the torque of each part a and b.From various experimental results, the lengths of parts a and b are determined by the knitting rate. kX0.05(
e) or more to kX10 (rrj range, preferably kXO
, o 5X kX 3.0- is good.

It has also been found that the torque, which is the driving force behind crepe, needs to be 10 or more, preferably 15 or more, as expressed by the vibration index described below.

To measure the stiffness index, one end of a sample length of 50α is fixed under an initial tension T (g/strand) depending on the fineness, the other end is held horizontally, and a load is applied to the center of the test yarn according to the fineness. After applying Wmg, the gripping end is approached at a slow speed toward the fixed end, and the position of the gripping end when the first snarl occurs is read on a scale that divides the 50 crrL between the fixed end and the gripping end into 100 equal parts. It was taken as the Biri index.

That is, the reading value and the magnitude of torque are in a proportional relationship.

The conditions for measurement were as follows, and the average value of 20 measurements was taken.

Regarding the non-torque part C, as shown in Table 1, increasing the length of the C part has the effect of strengthening the processed yarn texture to a raw yarn texture, but the length is less than the knitting ratio k x 50 hl. is within a practical range.

In this case, the ratio of the length of the torque part (a + b) part to the length of the non-torque part C part is 70 parts of the length of the (a + b) part>
It is desirable that it be l.

With the above structure, the slab adjustment vertical knitted fabric of the present invention can be used for a wide range of fabrics, from thick to thin fabrics, and can be used for clothing such as inner and outer garments, as well as nightwear, bedclothes such as futon side fabrics, and curtains. It can also be used for multiple applications such as upholstery.

Examples will be explained below.

Example l A polyamide 20 denier 3 filament was temporarily twisted under the conditions of Table 3-1 Example 1 by repeatedly operating and stopping the S heating air temporary twisting nozzle and the Z heating air temporary twisting nozzle for 5 seconds each. The special processed yarn of Example 1 in Table 3-2 was obtained by processing.

The specially processed yarn is used as the front yarn of the two-part tricot,
Non-torque polyamide 30 denier 10 for bank yarn
Using filament, the warp-knitted part was subjected to grain raising treatment and dyed finish according to the conditions shown in Table 4 Example 1. As a result, it had the grain shown in Table 5 Example 1, making it suitable for women's thin outer garments and inner wear. A crimp warp knitted fabric with good drapability and soft texture could be obtained.

The appearance of the knitted fabric is rich in variations in unevenness in the vertical and horizontal directions, and is completely different from the continuous appearance of unevenness or protrusion obtained by conventional methods.

Further, in terms of workability, it was not necessary to randomly arrange the warped S-direction torque yarn and Z-direction torque yarn, and the work could be carried out easily and efficiently.

Example 2 Polyester 50 denier 24 filament Table 3-1
It was processed under the temporary twisting conditions of Example 2 to obtain the special processed yarn of Example 2 in Table 3-2.

The specially processed yarn and polyester 50 denier 24 filament flat yarn are alternately arranged in a two-part tricot front yarn, and the back yarn is a polyester 30 denier 12 filament flat yarn, as shown in Table 4. After warp knitting under the conditions of 2, grain raising treatment and dyeing finish resulted in a high-class slub-adjusted warp knitted fabric having the grain shape of Example 2 in Table 5 and a shantung style suitable for women's outerwear.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the temporary twisting process, where 1 is the raw yarn, 2 is the feed roller, 3 is the heater, 4 is the air temporary twist nozzle for S heating, 5 is the air temporary twist nozzle for Z heating, 6
indicates the 2nd roller, 7 indicates the rolled roller, and 8 indicates the rolled cheese. Figure 2 shows the outer shell of the specially processed yarn, a. is the part with small bulk of the S direction torque part, a2 is the part with large bulk with S direction torque, C is the non-torque part with small bulk, and bl is the part with small bulk with Z direction torque, b2 indicates a portion with a large bulk in the Z direction torque. Fig. 2-1 shows the yarn form in which one circulation is al-a2-al-bl-b2-b□, and Fig. 2-2 shows a1a2-
A thread form with one cycle of al-C-bl-b2-bl-C is shown. Fig. 3 shows the stitch diagram, and Fig. 3-1 shows the half structure,
FIG. 3-2 shows a stitch diagram of a reverse half weave, and FIG. 3-3 shows a stitch diagram of a Queen's cord weave. Y[ indicates the front yarn, and Yb indicates the back yarn. FIG. 4 shows five types of stitch forms appearing in the warp knitted fabric of the present invention with respect to needle loops. b is a stitch with a large bulky torque in the S direction, C is a stitch with a non-bulk bulky torque, d is a stitch with a small bulky height in a Z direction torque, and e is a stitch with a large bulky height in a Z direction torque. Indicates the stitch. FIG. 5-1 shows the form of a needle loop when the model yarns of FIG. 6 are randomly arranged to knit a half structure, and the yarn A forms a large needle loop. I~Yo represent threads, and A~C represent wales. Figure 5-2 shows the needle roof form and its continuous state when one specially processed yarn and one flat yarn are alternately arranged to form a half weave. The numbers in the squares indicate the needle configuration a in FIG. 4 as 1. b to 2
．． c to 0. d to 3. e was displayed as 4. In addition, FIG. 5-3 shows the needle loop form of the tricot shaped like a willow obtained by the conventional manufacturing method, with 1 representing the S-direction torque and 3 representing the Z-direction torque. FIG. 6 shows the yarn form used as the model yarn in FIG. 5, and the al-a2-a shown in FIG.
It takes the circulating form of l-Cbl-b2-bl-c,
For the sake of explanation, the length of each part is shortened.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 In the longitudinal direction of the yarn, a bulky part a having an S-direction torque and a bulky part S having a two-direction torque form a torque part a.
and a non-torque part C having a smaller bulk than b.
In a processed yarn in which torque parts a and b are formed in circulation in the order of a-c-bc with
(Company) or more, the torque of each part a and b has a vibration index of 10 or more, and the length of part 0 is in the range below the knitting ratio kX50 (m) J! Processed yarn, 100
1. A method for producing a slab-adjusted warp knitted fabric, which comprises knitting a warp knitted fabric by using filament yarn or spunlike yarn other than the above yarn, and then subjecting it to a graining treatment.