JPS5950766B2 - Manufacturing method of specially processed yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a pongee-like specially processed yarn that exhibits excellent shape stability and a delicate color tone without any irregularities.

So-called pongee-style processed yarn, which is a continuous multifilament yarn wound with knots of irregular length, thickness, and period to form slabs, nep, etc., is well known.

Such processed yarns can be created by actually twisting them using a design twisting machine, or by artificially or randomly winding another yarn between the heating area of the false twisting machine, especially between the supply roller and the false twisting heater, and adjusting the winding position and supply tension. It is manufactured by a method in which a knotted part such as a slab or a nep is formed by winding different materials.

In the former method, slabs, nep, etc. are fixed by adding real twist using an up twister, ring twister, design twister, etc., so there are almost no problems with fixing slabs, nep, etc. However, on the other hand, it has the problem of low productivity and therefore high cost.

On the other hand, in the latter method, the part where the knotting thread is wound in multiple layers forms a thick thread part, but since the direction of twisting of the knotting thread is reversed in this part, the wrapped thread becomes a slub or nep. If it is squeezed by untwisting tension after passing through the false twisting spindle or by guides in the post-process, it may form slack parts and move or become uneven in shape, which significantly impedes passability in the post-process. However, this method had the disadvantage that the knotted yarn portion was not visible and the quality of the woven or knitted product was significantly impaired.

In addition, there are methods of using yarn with a high heat shrinkage rate, undrawn yarn, or semi-drawn yarn as the tying yarn to make the tying part stronger by shrinking it, and a method of using a yarn with a low melting point as the tying yarn and using a false-twisting heater. Methods have also been proposed in which the knotted part is strengthened by fusing the threads, but although these methods strengthen the knotted part to some extent, they tend to weaken due to shrinkage and fusing of the threads. The entire system hardens and becomes stiff, which limits its use to special applications.In addition, the dyeability varies depending on the winding condition of the knot, and dyeing spots are noticeable in the longitudinal direction of the thread. had.

The present inventor has conducted extensive studies on these problems, and has discovered a method for producing a pongee-like textured yarn that has excellent slub and nep form stability and exhibits a natural color tone with no curl in the longitudinal direction. It has been reached.

In order to achieve this object, the present invention has the following configuration.

That is, the present invention provides a thermoplastic material having a hot water shrinkage rate of 30% or more and having a difference in hot water shrinkage rate, dyeability, and thickness in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, in the heated region of the yarn that is being false-twisted. A special processed yarn characterized in that the continuous multifilament yarn is moved around the winding position at a speed faster than the running speed of the yarn, and is fed at a speed faster than the running speed of the yarn so as to be entangled with the yarn. This is the manufacturing method.

Next, the present invention will be explained based on the drawings.

The figure is a side view of an apparatus for carrying out the method of the invention.

In the figure, A is a yarn (hereinafter referred to as "core yarn") that is being subjected to false twisting.

). The core yarn A may be used as long as it is subjected to normal false twisting.

Furthermore, spun yarn may be used.

In this case, there is an advantage that the winding is strong.

However, it is necessary to heat in the same direction as the winding direction of the spun yarn.

B has differences in hot water shrinkage rate, dyeability, and thickness.

Thermoplastic continuous multifilament yarn (hereinafter referred to as "Roko").

). Here, the hot water shrinkage rate is measured using an Epsilon meter manufactured by Toyobo Engineering Co., Ltd., with a Hong thread tension of 0.1.
, P/d, sample length 10CrfL, processing load 5~/d processing temperature 95°C, processing time 30 seconds, yarn tension to the 20th roller 0.19/d, drying temperature 90°C, drying wafer)H No. The weight was set to give a tension of 0.1 g/d to the 30-lar, and the values were averaged from n=10 with a drying time of 30 seconds.

The hot water shrinkage rate is 30% or more, preferably 70% or less, and there is a difference in the hot water shrinkage rate in the longitudinal direction of the yarn (1θ% or more, preferably 25% or less at 07%), dyeability, and thickness. The reason why thermoplastic continuous multifilament yarn is used is to firmly fix the multilayer parts forming slabs, nep, etc. and the single layer part, which is the ground yarn part, to the core thread A in areas where the hot water shrinkage rate is high, and also to strengthen the overall This is to prevent the color from looking rough, and also to ensure that the difference in coloring between the multi-layered part and the single-layered part and the difference in coloring in the longitudinal direction of the path light are slightly adjusted (・to have a natural color tone change). It is.

Such path light BU can be easily obtained by adopting stretching conditions that cause non-uniform stretching, by setting the stretching ratio within the constant stress stretching range, or by stretching using rollers having notches.

As the path light B, polyester fibers, nylon fibers, etc. are preferable.

Further, there are no particular restrictions on the total denier or the single fiber denier, but those used for ordinary clothing are preferred.

If softness is required as a whole, the fineness d of the single fibers should be made thin, and conversely, to give a firm and crispy taste, the fineness d of the single fibers should be made thick.
In order to have a waist and soft feel, use core thread A.
It is preferable to use KU single fibers with a thicker fineness d, and for path light B to use single fibers with a thinner fineness d.

The heating area between the core yarn AH, the eye roller 2 and the false twisting spindle 6 is preferably heat-set so that the path light B is stably fixed to the core yarn A, and even in the subsequent process, the path light B is almost the same. Path light B is supplied to the heating area C between the field roller 2 and the heater 5 in order to prevent the field roller from moving.

At this time, the supply speed of the path light B must be faster than the running speed of the core yarn A, preferably by at least 50%.

In the figure, the surface speed of the supply roller 3 is faster than that of the delivery roller 7.

This is to wrap the light beam B around the core yarn A.

The path light BU is supplied to the core yarn A in the heating area, but at this time, it is necessary to change the winding position of the path light B at a speed faster than the traveling speed of the core yarn.

When the winding position of path light B moves in the same direction as the running of core yarn A, path light B wraps around core yarn A more densely than the heating density of core yarn A, and vice versa. and road light B in the opposite direction.
When the winding position moves, the path light B winds around the core yarn A more coarsely than the winding density of the core yarn A, and then, when passing through the false twisting spindle 6, it is untwisted by the number of times the core yarn A is heated. ,
In the former case, the twist in the heating direction, and in the latter case, the twist in the untwisting direction flows out of the false twisting spindle 6 and remains in the yarn, and the path light B wraps around the core yarn A, resulting in a further layer. This is because the multilayer portions are formed sequentially.

Note that the multilayer section referred to herein refers to a section with three or more layers.

The size of the slab, nep, etc. is determined by the ratio of the supply speed of the path light B to the running speed of the core yarn A, the moving speed of the winding position of the path light B, and the distance between the core yarn A and the final guide 4 of the path light B. However, since it varies depending on the fineness d, physical properties, and processing conditions of the core yarn A and the path light B, these conditions may be appropriately selected depending on the required specially processed yarn.

The movement of the winding position of the path light B can be left to itself as shown in the figure, or the yarn transfer guide can be run with the core yarn AKG,
The path light B may be wound around the core yarn A via this yarn transfer guide.

In addition, Pl and P2 are packages, 1.1' is a guide, and 8
．． 9 is a guide, 10 is a traverse guide, 11 is a winding drum, and 12 is a winding package.

Next, the operation of the method of the present invention will be explained.

In the figure, core yarn AU is unwound from package P1,
heater 5 by foot roller 2 through guide 1;
It is sent to a false twisting spindle 6, subjected to a false twisting process, and then sent out from a delivery roller 7.

At this time, the spinning yarn Bid is unwound from the package P2, passes through the guide 1', is supplied by the supply roller 3 to the heating area C of the core yarn A through the final guide 4 at a supply speed faster than the traveling speed of the core yarn A. be done.

Spinning yarn B moves in the running direction of core yarn A at a faster speed than the running speed of core yarn A, and also moves in the opposite direction to the running direction of core yarn A, and repeats this movement while winding around core yarn A. -The main part and the multilayer part are formed in sequence.

The specially processed yarn C, in which the spun yarn B is wound around the core yarn A in this manner, exits the delivery roller 7, passes through the guides 8.9 and the traverse guide 10, and is formed into a wound package 12 by the winding drum 11.

As described above, according to the method of the present invention, since the spun yarn B has differences in hot water shrinkage rate, dyeability, thickness, etc. in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, irregular shrinkage of the spun yarn B causes slabs, neps, etc. A specially processed yarn with a pongee-like texture and a natural color tone and uneven thickness was obtained, with the yarn being fixed and the uneven color tone due to the winding condition not being noticeable, and the items woven and woven with this yarn were rich in elegance. .

Example Using the apparatus shown in the figure, a multifilament yarn (50d/24f) of ordinary polyester fiber was spun as a core yarn at a spinning temperature of 280°C and a winding speed of 2200 m/m. A drawn yarn (50d/36f) with an average hot water shrinkage rate of 55% and a variation rate (CV) of 11.3% obtained by stretching the drawn yarn at a draw ratio of 1.57 times (natural draw ratio of 1.62) It was processed using the following conditions.

Conditions: Number of twists: 2950T/M, core yarn feed rate:
+4% (relative to delivery roller 7), spinning feed rate...+80% (relative to delivery roller 7), heater temperature...220°C, winding rate...+6.2% (relative to delivery roller 7) , false twisting spindle rotation speed...210
．． 00 Orpm.

For comparison, ordinary polyester drawn yarn (50
Textured yarns were also produced using d/36f).

Warp density of 24 yarns/cm using processed yarns of Examples and Comparative Examples
The evaluation was made by weaving a plain weave structure with a weft density of 23 threads/cm.

In the comparative example, which used processed yarn, the slub and nep were loose, and the surface condition was somewhat rough due to irregular winding of the base yarn, and the dyeing spots were noticeable in a moiré pattern. The product using the specially processed yarn of the example did not have these problems and was well received for its natural color tone and pongee-like surface condition.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

The figure is a side view of an apparatus for carrying out the method of the invention. 2... Feed roller, 3... Supply roller, 4... Final guide, 5... Heater, 6... False twist spindle, 7...
Delivery roller.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A thermoplastic continuous multifilament yarn having a hot water shrinkage rate of 30% or more and having a difference in hot water shrinkage rate, dyeability, and thickness in the longitudinal direction of the yarn is placed in the heating area of the yarn that is being false-twisted. A method for producing a specially textured yarn, characterized in that the winding position is moved at a speed faster than the traveling speed of the yarn, and the yarn is fed at a speed faster than the traveling speed of the yarn to be entangled with the yarn.