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JPS6024868B2 - Manufacturing method for post-dyed silk fabric - Google Patents
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JPS6024868B2 - Manufacturing method for post-dyed silk fabric - Google Patents

Manufacturing method for post-dyed silk fabric

Info

Publication number
JPS6024868B2
JPS6024868B2 JP54125869A JP12586979A JPS6024868B2 JP S6024868 B2 JPS6024868 B2 JP S6024868B2 JP 54125869 A JP54125869 A JP 54125869A JP 12586979 A JP12586979 A JP 12586979A JP S6024868 B2 JPS6024868 B2 JP S6024868B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
silk
silk thread
polyester resin
dyed
thread
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
JP54125869A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS5649090A (en
Inventor
芳孝 田口
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
SEKYOSHI ORIMONO KK
Original Assignee
SEKYOSHI ORIMONO KK
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by SEKYOSHI ORIMONO KK filed Critical SEKYOSHI ORIMONO KK
Priority to JP54125869A priority Critical patent/JPS6024868B2/en
Publication of JPS5649090A publication Critical patent/JPS5649090A/en
Publication of JPS6024868B2 publication Critical patent/JPS6024868B2/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 合成樹脂フィルム紬断糸を模様経糸や絵緯糸や縫取糸や
装飾糸として使用し、地絹糸との染色性の相違を利用し
て後梁加工により異色染模様を表現することが多用され
てきたが、合成樹脂フィルム紬断糸は光り過ぎたり、ご
わついたりして絹の地風を損ねるだけでなく、厳密には
絹100%織物とはいえず、それだけ安物として取扱わ
れていた。
[Detailed description of the invention] Synthetic resin film pongee threads are used as pattern warps, picture wefts, sewing threads, and decorative threads, and different color dyed patterns are created by back beam processing using the difference in dyeability from ground silk threads. Although it has been often used to express this, synthetic resin film pongee thread not only is too shiny and stiff and spoils the texture of silk, but it cannot be strictly called a 100% silk fabric. It was treated as a cheap item.

本発明は、絹糸の外表面にポリエステル樹脂被膜層を被
着せしめ、このポリエステル樹脂被覆層と絹糸との染色
性の相違を利用して同じく後染加工により異色染模様を
表現するもので、全然合成樹脂フィルム紬断糸を使用し
ない絹100%の織物となり、絹織物の柔らかい地風を
損ねない上美しい後染模様を容易に表現し得て充分高級
呉服として取扱われる後染絹織物の製造法に係るものに
して、溶剤に溶かしたポリエステル樹脂溶液を適宜な方
法で絹糸の外表面に塗布してポリエステル樹脂被膜層で
外表面が被覆された加工絹糸を形成し、この加工絹糸を
各種の絹織物の模様経糸や絵緯糸や縫取糸や装飾糸とし
て織り込み、絹とポリエステル樹脂の染色性の相違を利
用し、この加工絹糸を染色する際の地絹糸への汚染を防
止して地絹染色と異色の異色梁模様を表現する。また精
練した絹糸の外表面にポリエステル樹脂被膜層を形成し
、地絹糸に精練しない絹糸を使用し、加工絹糸を染色後
この織布を精練する。
The present invention applies a polyester resin coating layer to the outer surface of silk thread, and utilizes the difference in dyeability between this polyester resin coating layer and silk thread to express a different color dyeing pattern through piece dyeing. A method for manufacturing piece-dyed silk fabric that does not use synthetic resin film pongee yarn, is made of 100% silk, does not impair the soft texture of the silk fabric, and can easily express beautiful piece-dyed patterns, so that it can be treated as high-quality kimono. A polyester resin solution dissolved in a solvent is applied to the outer surface of the silk thread by an appropriate method to form a processed silk thread whose outer surface is coated with a polyester resin coating layer, and this processed silk thread can be used for various types of silk. It is woven into textiles as pattern warps, picture wefts, sewing threads, and decorative threads, and takes advantage of the difference in dyeability between silk and polyester resin to prevent contamination of the ground silk thread when dyeing this processed silk thread, and dyes the ground silk. and expresses a unique beam pattern. Further, a polyester resin coating layer is formed on the outer surface of the scoured silk thread, unscoured silk thread is used as the ground silk thread, and the processed silk thread is dyed and then the woven fabric is scoured.

また揮発性溶剤を使用してポリエステル樹脂を溶解し、
常法の経糸糊付法を採用して絹糸の外表面にポリエステ
ル樹脂被膜層を被覆形成せしめる。また表裏に異なる組
織地模様が生ずる両面絹織物の絵緯糸に加工絹糸を使用
したことを特徴とするものである。在来組織変化により
地模様を表現せしめた絹100%の絹織物は後梁加工を
施すと地の部分も地湊馨空諺雲墓;蚤客菱き喜美≧蓮桑
奉る書き菱案可能であった。
Also dissolve the polyester resin using a volatile solvent,
A conventional warp sizing method is employed to form a polyester resin coating layer on the outer surface of the silk thread. It is also characterized by the use of processed silk yarn for the picture weft of the double-sided silk fabric, which has different weave patterns on the front and back sides. The 100% silk fabric, which expresses the background pattern by changing the conventional texture, can be processed with a back beam to create a diamond design on the base that reads ``Ji Minato Kaoru Sky Proverbs Cloud Tomb''; there were.

このためあらかじめ先梁した先染絹糸を使用して地模様
の部分の色を異色に表現する先染織物もあるが、後染織
物に比して諸作業が非常に厄介であり、且つ後梁のよう
に華麗な模様を表現することができない欠点がある。
For this reason, there are some yarn-dyed fabrics that use yarn-dyed silk yarn that has been pre-crossed to create a unique color in the background pattern, but compared to piece-dyed fabrics, the various operations are much more troublesome, and the yarn-dyed silk yarn is It has the disadvantage that it cannot express gorgeous patterns like .

そこで染色性の異なる合成樹脂フィルム紙断糸を模様経
糸、絵縞糸、縫取糸、装飾糸などに使用し、この合成樹
脂フィルム細断糸を表面に多く露出せしめた模様部分を
後染加工により地の部分の色と異色に染色し、地の汚染
は合成樹脂フィルム紬断糸と絹糸との染色性の相違を利
用して精練や洗液などの後加工時に洗い落して異色染模
様を表現する後染絹織物が多用されているが、この合成
樹脂フィルム紬断糸は断面形状が方形のためごわつき、
絹独特の柔らかい地風が損なわれ、且つ厳密には絹10
0%の絹織物といえなくなり、それだけ安物として取り
扱われる欠点があった。
Therefore, synthetic resin film paper cut threads with different dyeability are used for pattern warp threads, picture striped threads, sewing threads, decorative threads, etc., and the patterned parts where many of these synthetic resin film cut threads are exposed on the surface are piece-dyed. The soil is dyed in a different color from the color of the ground part, and the soil contamination is washed off during post-processing such as scouring and washing using the difference in dyeability between the synthetic resin film pongee thread and silk thread to create a different color dyed pattern. Post-dyed silk fabrics are often used to express this effect, but the synthetic resin film pongee yarn has a square cross-sectional shape, making it stiff and stiff.
The soft texture unique to silk is lost, and strictly speaking, it is silk 10
It could no longer be considered a 0% silk fabric, and it had the disadvantage of being treated as a cheap item.

本出願人はこの点に着眼し、いろいろ研究を重ねた結果
、合成樹脂フィルム細断糸を使用しないオール絹の柔ら
かい地風を損ねない絹織物でありながら合成樹脂フィル
ム細断糸を使用したときと同様に絹との染色性の相違を
利用して後梁加工により異色染模様を表現し得る後染絹
織物の製造を可能にしたのである。
The present applicant focused on this point, and as a result of various studies, it was found that a silk fabric that does not use shredded synthetic resin film yarn does not spoil the soft texture of all silk, but uses shredded synthetic resin film yarn. In the same way, by utilizing the difference in dyeability from silk, it became possible to produce piece-dyed silk fabrics that could express different colored dyed patterns through back-beam processing.

本発明は溶剤に溶かしたポリエステル樹脂溶液のような
絹糸と染色性が異なり且つその染着工程において絹糸を
侵さない合成樹脂溶液を適宜な方法で絹糸1の外表面に
塗布してポリエステル樹脂被膜層2で外表面が被覆され
た加工絹糸3を形成し、この加工絹糸3を各種の絹織物
の模様経糸や絵緯糸や縫取糸や装飾糸として織り込むが
、この加工絹糸3は実際は絹糸1でありながらその外表
面にはポリエステル樹脂被膜層が形成されているため単
なる地の絹糸4とはポリエステル樹脂被膜層2の存在に
より染色性が異なり、地の絹糸4を染める染料ではこの
加工絹糸3は染まらず、加工絹糸3を染色する染料では
地の絹糸1が染まらないことになる。
In the present invention, a synthetic resin solution, such as a polyester resin solution dissolved in a solvent, which has different dyeability from silk threads and which does not damage silk threads during the dyeing process, is applied to the outer surface of silk thread 1 by an appropriate method to form a polyester resin coating layer. A processed silk thread 3 whose outer surface is coated is formed in step 2, and this processed silk thread 3 is woven into various silk fabrics as pattern warp, picture weft, sewing thread, or decorative thread.However, this processed silk thread 3 is actually silk thread 1. However, since a polyester resin coating layer is formed on the outer surface of the processed silk thread 3, its dyeability differs from that of a simple plain silk thread 4 due to the presence of the polyester resin coating layer 2. This means that the dye used to dye the processed silk thread 3 will not dye the ground silk thread 1.

従って、加工絹糸3を後染加工により所望色に染色する
場合地の絹糸4もその色に汚染するが、この汚染はその
後の後加工の際簡単に洗い落せるから加工絹糸3が露出
している模様部分を地と異色に後染して異色梁模様5を
表現することが地の汚染を必配しないで良いから極めて
容易にできることになる。
Therefore, when the processed silk thread 3 is dyed to a desired color by piece dyeing, the base silk thread 4 is also contaminated with that color, but this contamination can be easily washed off during subsequent post-dying, so the processed silk thread 3 is exposed. It is extremely easy to express the different-colored beam pattern 5 by post-dying the patterned part in a color different from the ground because it does not necessarily cause contamination of the ground.

このポリエステル樹脂溶液は絹糸1の外表面に極めて薄
く塗布するもので加工絹糸3の断面形状は従来の合成樹
脂フィルム細断糸のように長方形ではなく絹糸1そのも
のであるから模様経糸や総縞糸や縫取糸や装飾糸として
織り込んでも従来の合成樹脂フィルム細断糸を使用した
場合のように地風がごわつかず、絹独特の柔らかさを損
ねることがなく、全く絹100%の高級絹織物として取
扱われることになる。
This polyester resin solution is applied extremely thinly to the outer surface of the silk thread 1, and the cross-sectional shape of the processed silk thread 3 is not rectangular like conventional synthetic resin film shredded threads, but is the same as the silk thread 1, so it is a patterned warp or a striped thread. A high-quality silk fabric made entirely of 100% silk, which does not stiffen the texture and lose the unique softness of silk even when woven into it as sewing thread or decorative thread, unlike when using conventional synthetic resin film shredded thread. will be treated as such.

このように本発明は、絹100%の高級品でありながら
異色染模様5の後染加工が極めて容易にできる秀れた特
長を有するもので、着物や羽織などの着尺用織物やカー
テンなどのインテリア用織物、その他の各種の織物に利
用し得るものである。
As described above, the present invention has the excellent feature that it is extremely easy to piece-dye the unique color dyeing pattern 5 even though it is a high-quality product made of 100% silk. It can be used for interior textiles and various other textiles.

また揮発性溶剤を使用してポリエステル樹脂を溶解する
からこのポリエステル樹脂液を絹糸1に塗布すると揮発
性溶剤が直ちに揮発するためそれぞれ薄く塗布できる上
塗布作業もし易いことになる。
Furthermore, since a volatile solvent is used to dissolve the polyester resin, when this polyester resin liquid is applied to the silk thread 1, the volatile solvent evaporates immediately, making it possible to apply each thinly and making the application process easier.

またポリエステル樹脂液を絹糸1に塗布してしまうとポ
リエステル樹脂液を塗布した絹糸1を精練できないこと
になるが、この点本発明では精練した絹糸1にポリエス
テル樹脂液を塗布し、地の絹糸4は後で精練を施すから
オール精練絹100%の絹織物となり絹織物独特の柔ら
かい地風が損われないことになる。またポリエステル樹
脂液は常法の経糸糊付法により精練した絹糸1に塗布す
るからポリエステル樹脂液をそれだけ全体に薄く、平均
に塗布できることになり、絹糸1全体を完全被覆し得る
から絹糸1とポリエステル樹脂被覆層2との染色性の相
違による染色効果を確実に発揮し得ることになる。
Furthermore, if the polyester resin liquid is applied to the silk thread 1, the silk thread 1 coated with the polyester resin liquid cannot be scoured, but in this invention, the polyester resin liquid is applied to the scoured silk thread 1, and the silk thread 1 coated with the polyester resin liquid is coated with the polyester resin liquid. Since the silk is then refined, the resulting silk fabric is made entirely of 100% refined silk, and the soft texture unique to silk fabric is not lost. In addition, since the polyester resin liquid is applied to the silk thread 1 which has been refined by the conventional warp sizing method, the polyester resin liquid can be applied thinly and evenly over the whole silk thread 1, and the silk thread 1 and the polyester resin liquid can be applied to the entire silk thread 1 completely. The dyeing effect due to the difference in dyeability from the resin coating layer 2 can be reliably exhibited.

次に本発明の一実施例を詳述する。トルェンなどの揮発
性溶剤を使用してポリエステル樹脂を溶解する。
Next, one embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail. Dissolve the polyester resin using a volatile solvent such as toluene.

この溶解希釈の度合はポリエステル樹脂溶液50部に対
しトルェン5碇都程度が望ましい。
The degree of dissolution and dilution is preferably about 5 parts of toluene per 50 parts of the polyester resin solution.

希釈したポリエステル樹脂溶液を常法の経糸糊付法を採
用して精練した絹糸1の外表面に塗布する。
A diluted polyester resin solution is applied to the outer surface of the refined silk thread 1 using a conventional warp sizing method.

乾燥は揮発性溶剤のため常温送風で迅速に乾燥し、ポリ
エステル樹脂被覆層2で被覆された加工絹糸3が形成さ
れる。この加工糸3を絵縞糸として使用し、精練しない
地経緯絹糸と織製し、表裏に異なる組織地模様が生ずる
両面絹織物を製織する。
Since the drying process is a volatile solvent, it is quickly dried by blowing air at room temperature, and a processed silk thread 3 coated with a polyester resin coating layer 2 is formed. This processed yarn 3 is used as a picture-striped yarn and woven with unscoured ground/warp silk yarn to weave a double-sided silk fabric with different weave patterns on the front and back sides.

この表裏の地模様部分の表面には加工絹糸3が多く露出
され、地模様部以外では加工絹糸3は内部に埋通されて
いる。
A large amount of the processed silk thread 3 is exposed on the surface of the ground pattern portions on the front and back sides, and the processed silk thread 3 is embedded inside other than the ground pattern portion.

この表面に露出した加工絹糸3を常法のキャリア梁法で
染色し、常法により高圧蒸煮して染着を完了する。
The processed silk thread 3 exposed on the surface is dyed by a conventional carrier beam method, and then high pressure steamed by a conventional method to complete the dyeing.

この後染織物を精練し、更に地をだぶ積により地模様部
と異色に染色し、所望地色に異色の異色染模様5が表現
された後梁絹織物となる。
This post-dyed fabric is refined, and the ground is further dyed in a different color from the ground pattern part by overlaying, resulting in a back-liang silk fabric in which a different color dyed pattern 5 is expressed in the desired ground color.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of the drawing]

第1図は本発明の一部を拡大した加工絹糸の正面図、第
2図は織物一部の正面図である。 1・・・絹糸、2・・・ポリエステル樹脂被膜層、3・
・・加工絹糸、5・・・異色染模様。 久/燐 ツZ鰯
FIG. 1 is a front view of a partially enlarged processed silk yarn according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a front view of a portion of the fabric. 1... Silk thread, 2... Polyester resin coating layer, 3...
... Processed silk thread, 5... Different color dyed pattern. Kyu/Rintsu Z Sardine

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 1 溶剤に溶かしたポリエステル樹脂溶液を適宜な方法
で絹糸の外表面に塗布してポリエステル樹脂被覆層で外
表面が被覆された加工絹糸を形成し、この加工絹糸を各
種の絹織物の模様経糸や絵緯糸や縫取糸や装飾糸として
織り込み、絹とポリエステル樹脂の染色性の相違を利用
し、この加工絹糸を染色する際の地絹糸への汚染を防止
して地絹染色と異色の異色染模様を表現することを特徴
とする絹織物の製造法。 2 精練した絹糸の外表面にポリエステル樹脂被膜層を
形成し、地絹糸に精練しない絹糸を使用し、加工絹糸を
染色後この織布を精練することを特徴とする特許請求の
範囲第1項記載の後染絹織物の製造法。 3 揮発性溶剤を使用してポリエステル樹脂を溶解し、
常法の経糸糊付法を採用して絹糸の外表面にポリエステ
ル樹脂被覆層を被覆形成せしめることを特徴とする特許
請求の範囲第1項記載の後染絹織物の製造法。 4 表裏に異なる組織地模様が生ずる両面絹織物の絵緯
糸に加工絹糸を使用したことを特徴とする特許請求の範
囲第1項記載の後染絹織物の製造法。
[Claims] 1. A polyester resin solution dissolved in a solvent is applied to the outer surface of a silk thread by an appropriate method to form a processed silk thread whose outer surface is coated with a polyester resin coating layer, and this processed silk thread is used in various types. It is woven into patterned warps, picture wefts, sewing threads, and decorative threads in silk fabrics, and takes advantage of the difference in dyeability between silk and polyester resin to prevent contamination of the ground silk thread when dyeing this processed silk thread. A method of manufacturing silk fabrics characterized by dyeing and expressing unique dyed patterns. 2. A polyester resin coating layer is formed on the outer surface of a scoured silk thread, unscoured silk thread is used as the ground silk thread, and the processed silk thread is dyed and then the woven fabric is scoured. A method for producing post-dyed silk fabrics. 3 Dissolve the polyester resin using a volatile solvent,
2. A method for producing a piece-dyed silk fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that a conventional warp sizing method is employed to form a polyester resin coating layer on the outer surface of the silk thread. 4. A method for producing a piece-dyed silk fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that a processed silk thread is used for the picture weft of a double-sided silk fabric that has different weave patterns on the front and back sides.
JP54125869A 1979-09-28 1979-09-28 Manufacturing method for post-dyed silk fabric Expired JPS6024868B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP54125869A JPS6024868B2 (en) 1979-09-28 1979-09-28 Manufacturing method for post-dyed silk fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP54125869A JPS6024868B2 (en) 1979-09-28 1979-09-28 Manufacturing method for post-dyed silk fabric

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS5649090A JPS5649090A (en) 1981-05-02
JPS6024868B2 true JPS6024868B2 (en) 1985-06-14

Family

ID=14920938

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP54125869A Expired JPS6024868B2 (en) 1979-09-28 1979-09-28 Manufacturing method for post-dyed silk fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS6024868B2 (en)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS62119750U (en) * 1986-01-20 1987-07-29
JPH076113B2 (en) * 1990-11-22 1995-01-25 登 小北 Method for producing woven fabric capable of post-kneading discharge printing

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS5649090A (en) 1981-05-02

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