JPS6117935B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for weaving a wide kasuri pattern.

Traditionally, in kasuri weaving, the kasuri pattern was set in advance on the warp and weft before weaving, so the warp threads were laid out in parallel to match the pattern, and the weft threads were pre-standardized to match the warp pattern. By winding the warp threads around a weft winding board and making them fly back and forth between the warp threads using a shuttle, the Kasuri pattern on the warp threads and the Kasuri pattern on the weft match exactly, allowing Kasuri weaving to be carried out. Therefore, the kasuri to be woven could only be woven with a width regulated by the length of the weft winding board, and it was impossible to weave a wide kasuri. However, in recent years, the use of kimono-width kasuri is limited to kimono, and in response to the demands of the fashion industry, there has been a demand for wide-width kasuri weaving for use in clothing, etc. In order to weave such wide-width Kasuri, while weaving is carried out using a Kasuri loom for the kimono width used in conventional Kasuri weaving, the weft is folded back to form a multi-layer side opening bag structure, and this folded bag is stitched. One possible method is to spread out the parts and stretch them to make a single wide piece of Kasuri. However, in wide kasuri woven using this method, overcrowding of the warp threads occurs at the boundary between multiple folds due to the tightening during the folding operation, so the side opening bag structure is expanded to form a single wide kasuri. The multiple folded borders that correspond to the bag binding part give a sense of discomfort, and clothes made with wide kasuri have linear bulges that correspond to the folded borders of wide kasuri, reducing their aesthetic appearance and limiting their uses. It had some drawbacks.

In this invention, a weft winding plate of a fixed length standard used in a Kasuri loom for kimono width is made to fly back and forth between the upper and lower warps using a shuttle, the weft is folded back and woven into a multi-woven side opening bag structure, and then In the wide-width kasuri weaving method, in which the folded bag-stitched part is unfolded and stretched to make a single wide-width kasuri, soluble warp yarns that contract when melted are arranged near the warp yarns located at the bag-stitched part of the side-opening bag weave, and the weft yarns are wefted. is folded back and woven into a multi-woven side-opening bag structure, and after weaving, the same soluble warp threads are dissolved and erased while shrinking, and then the folded bag binding part is unfolded and stretched.
By using the wide kasuri weaving method, which is characterized by making a single wide kasuri, the folded border of the wide kasuri does not become overcrowded, and no linear bulges occur, making the entire surface of the wide kasuri uniform and flat. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for weaving wide-width kasuri that can produce wide-width kasuri.

An embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail below based on the drawings.

That is, FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing a loom M for knitting width. A shows a group of warp threads, B shows a shuttle storing a weft winding board C, and D shows a heddle for shedding warp threads. The width loom M raises and lowers the warp threads in the warp group A by the shedding motion of the heald D, and causes the weft winding board C to fly back and forth between the upper and lower warp threads by means of a shuttle B that stores the weft winding board C. and the weft.

The weft winding board C is wound with weft threads dyed with pattern pieces in advance so that the kasuri pattern will appear after weaving, and the pattern pieces of the weft yarn are precisely matched with the warp kasuri pattern pieces by the shuttle's reciprocating flight. The length of the weft winding plate C is as follows:
It is provided in advance to a standardized constant length.

Moreover, the weft threads that are woven into the warp threads while flying back and forth by the shuttle B are stopped and folded back by the locking needles S at the position corresponding to the folded part, that is, the bag binding part. The stop needle S is configured to operate intermittently in synchronization with the reciprocating operation of the shuttle B by means of a stop needle interlocking link mechanism consisting of a cam 5 and an arm 6 interlockingly connected to the cam 5. .

Figure 2 shows a complete weave diagram of the double weave as the side bag weave of the wide Kasuri woven by the method of the present invention, where 1 is the first warp of the single layer, and 2 is the first warp of the double layer. , 3 is the second warp of the single layer, 4 is the second warp of the double layer, and these are arranged in the order of 1, 2, 3, 4. , a' and the weft yarns b and b' that weave the double weave intersect, and a, a', b, and b' fly in the directions shown by the arrows, respectively, and in one complete organization chart. , the white frame indicates the descending state of the warp threads, and the black frame indicates the rising state of the warp threads.

Based on this one-complete organization chart, the weaving order of warp and weft yarns will be explained using Figure 3 as an example of a multiple weave medium double weave forming a cross-mouth pocket weave. After raising the first warp 1 and lowering the other warps 2, 3, and 4, the weft a, which is to be woven in the first layer, is divided into the ascending warp 1, descending warp 2,
Insert between 3 and 4.

() Next, after raising the second warp 3 of the single layer and lowering the other warps 1, 2, and 4, the above-mentioned weft a is folded back at the first warp 1 of the single layer,
The weft a' is inserted between the ascending warp 3 and the descending warps 1, 2, and 4 from the first warp side of the single layer. In this state, as shown in FIG.
a′ is the first warp 1 of the single layer and the second warp 3 of the single layer
This means that the single layer in the double weave is woven.

() Next, after lowering the first warp 2 of the double stitch and raising the other warps 1, 3, and 4, the above-mentioned weft a' is folded back at the second warp 4 of the double stitch. The weft b is used as a weft yarn to weave the stitches, and is inserted between the ascending warp and the descending warp from the second warp 4 side of the double stitch. In this state, the weft yarn that organizes the single layer
When a' is folded back to form a weft b for knitting a double weft, the folded portion of the weft a' becomes a continuous portion of the single and double wefts.

Next, the second warp 4 of the double stitch is lowered and the other warps 1, 2, and 3 are raised, and then the weft b of the double stitch structure is folded back at the first warp 2 of the double stitch. It is inserted between the ascending warp and descending warp from the first warp 2 side of the double stitch. In this state, as shown in FIG. The eyes will be organized.

In the Kasuri woven in the above manner, the first warp 1 of the double weave is woven by the first warp 1 of the single layer, the second warp 3 of the single layer, and the wefts a and a' that weave the first layer. Therefore, the double weave of the double weave is formed by the first warp 2 and the second warp 4 of the double weave, and the wefts b and b' that form the double weave, and The single-ply and double-ply stitches are connected by the continuous part of the weft yarns a, a' that weave the single-ply stitch and the weft yarns b, b' that weave the double-ply stitch, that is, the bag-stitched part of the side opening bag weave. As shown in FIG. 4, by widening the woven single and double stitches, a Kasuri fabric having a width twice the previous kimono width is woven.

Here, the gist of the present invention is, as shown in FIG. Along the warp corresponding to the part, auxiliary yarns of water-soluble fibers that shrink during dissolution are woven as soluble warp W, and after weaving, the soluble warp W, which is the water-soluble fiber, is immersed in water and dissolved while shrinking. The goal is to at least get rid of it. By doing this, whereas originally the folded part of the weft yarn, that is, the bag-stitched part of the side opening bag tissue, was woven with the warp in an overcrowded state by the once-folded weft yarn, it is possible to weave the auxiliary yarn in advance. Since the weft is woven together with the warp, the weft is folded back and organized at the combined part of the auxiliary yarn and the warp to create extra space for the auxiliary yarn, and then the extra auxiliary yarn is woven. By erasing, a space is formed in the part where the weft yarn is folded back, and the weaving density can be made completely uniform with other woven parts.Furthermore, the dissolvable warp yarn, which is an auxiliary yarn, is dissolved when it is dissolved. When contracted, the deformation of the warp engaged with the folded weft can be corrected to make the warp as straight as possible.

According to this invention, the following effects are achieved.

Conventionally, the folds at the binding part of the side-opening bag tissue remain when the bag is spread wide, and the only way to remove the deformation of the folds is to move the threads that are knitted by hand, but the present invention In this method, water-soluble or other soluble warp yarns were used that contracted when dissolved, so the warp yarns contracted during dissolution, causing the tissue points of the warp and weft to move and settle in the spatial positions of the warp yarns that disappeared after contraction. The tissue warp of the bag-stitched part, which was deformed into a wavy shape when engaged with the folded warp, is misaligned as the soluble warp shrinks and is corrected as much as possible, becoming a straight warp and eliminating the deformation of the fold. It can be eliminated.

During weaving, the dissolvable warp threads are kept strongly tensioned, so that the pulling action of the warp threads due to tension on the weft threads at the bag binding portion can be controlled as much as possible, and deformation when the bag binding portion is unfolded can be prevented.

When weaving the bag-stitched part, soluble warp threads are woven into the bag-stitched part, so the threads become overcrowded. This creates a space and eliminates the overcrowded state, and the folded border of the wide Kasuri does not become overcrowded, making it possible to have a uniform density over the entire surface, and the expansion state when the bag binding part is widened. It is possible to eliminate this problem, provide a uniform texture and appearance over the entire surface, and achieve a quality that can withstand use as a wide Kasuri fabric.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram of a Kasuri loom for kimono width used in the method of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a complete organizational chart according to the method of the present invention. Fig. 3 is an explanatory diagram of the structure of wide Kasuri weave with multiple weaves. FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram of the texture of warp and weft yarns when the multi-woven Kasuri is expanded to form a wide Kasuri.
FIG. 5 is an explanatory diagram of the structure of warp and weft yarns in a state in which auxiliary warp yarns as water-soluble fibers are knitted by the method of the present invention. FIGS. 6, 7, and 8 are complete organizational charts showing other examples. 1: First warp of single layer, 2: First warp of double layer, 3: Second warp of single layer, 4: Second warp of double layer, a: Weft, a': Weft, b: Weft , b′: weft,
W: Auxiliary warp.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 A weft winding plate of a certain length standard used in a Kasuri loom for kimono width is made to fly back and forth between the upper and lower warps using a shuttle, and the weft is folded back to weave it into a multi-woven side opening bag structure, and then folded back. Unfold and stretch the bag-stitched part,
In a wide-width kasuri weaving method that produces a single wide-width kasuri,
A soluble warp that shrinks when melted is arranged near the warp located at the bag binding part of the side-mouth bag structure, and the weft is folded back to create a multi-woven side-mouth bag structure, and the soluble warp shrinks after weaving. A method for weaving wide-width kasuri, which is characterized by dissolving and erasing the folded kasuri while stretching, and then unfolding and stretching the folded bag-stitched part to make a single wide kasuri.