JPS6143442B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing garments using thermoplastic resin, particularly polyamide resin adhesives.

Conventionally, in the case of clothes such as suit jackets, an adhesive interlining was bonded between the facing material and the front material to improve the formability and shape retention of the material, thereby making the finished product uniform. At the same time, efforts have been made to improve productivity.

However, especially heavy clothing,
For example, in the case of the suit jacket mentioned above, the entire front body is
Since a single-sided interlining coated with adhesive resin is attached to one side of the base fabric, the weight of the suit jacket increases as more adhesive interlining is used, giving a sense of weight when worn and having strong shape retention. It gives a sense of stiffness and gives a sense of discomfort unless it is worn in a way that matches the wearer's size or body shape.

In addition, when the materials of the base fabric of the outer material and adhesive interlining are different, and the expansion and contraction rate and direction of expansion and contraction of the woven fabric due to cleaning etc. are different, the outer material cannot follow the expansion and contraction of the adhesive interlining, and the outer material warps. There are disadvantages such as curling or waving, and therefore the material for the adhesive interlining must be selected in accordance with the material of the outer material.

On the other hand, the reason why adhesive interlining has come into widespread use is that interlining work, which is one of the main tasks of sewing, can be easily performed without requiring any skill, and the manufacturing process can be shortened. However, the trouble of cutting the adhesive interlining in accordance with the cutting of the outer material cannot be omitted.

The object of the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing clothing that eliminates the above-mentioned disadvantages while retaining the advantages of adhesive interlining, reduces the weight of clothing, especially heavy clothing, and has outer material stability, shape retention, and reinforcing properties. It is about providing.

Another object of the present invention is to simplify the process of gluing the facing material and the front material together and simultaneously sewing the separately sewn back and sleeves together, thereby shortening the manufacturing process and improving productivity. The goal is to provide a manufacturing method for garments with

The gist of the present invention is to use cloth made of a material with approximately the same elasticity for at least the outer material of the body part and the front body part, and to disperse polyamide resin adhesive in a total amount of 20 to 30 g per ¹ m2. 25 per ^1m2 in the form of dots
~50 adhesive tapes are placed on either the back side of the front body fabric or the back side of the front body fabric, and adhesive tape is applied to the back side of the collar and sleeve areas of the outer fabric where the adhesive is applied. After pasting the back side of both outer fabrics facing each other, and applying ground stitching of the facing fabric to the front body outer fabric in advance, or prior to applying the ground stitching, attaching adhesive tape for ground stitching, Using a mold that matches the finished figure, the back sides of both outer fabrics are bonded together by heat and pressure, and then the adhesive tape is peeled off to form non-adhesive areas at the collar and sleeve areas of both outer fabrics. The sleeves are sewn together with the separately sewn back and collar.

The present invention will be described in more detail as follows.

In the present invention, the term "garment" refers to any type of clothing, including men's clothing, women's clothing, children's clothing, etc., but the present invention is mainly suitable for manufacturing suit jackets, jackets, and coats.

In the present invention, at least the facing material and the outer material of the front body are directly bonded with a polyamide resin, one outer material is reinforced with the other outer material and an adhesive, and shape retention is provided, and the adhesive is removed. Utilizing moldability, it can be formed to fit a predetermined body shape. At this time, since the front body outer material and the front body outer material are glued together, unless both outer materials are made of materials with approximately the same elasticity, there will be a difference in the elasticity between the front body outer material and the front body outer material. As a result, one of the outer fabrics cannot follow the expansion and contraction of the other outer fabric, resulting in the inconvenience of warping.

The adhesive used in the present invention is a polyamide resin adhesive among thermoplastic synthetic resin adhesives, but in the present invention, both the outer materials are fully bonded and used as an integral composite material, so the outer material is not affected. For example, the adhesive arranged in scattered dots is easy to melt and does not leave traces of unevenness on the surface of the outer material, and at the same time prevents the peeling of both outer materials. Therefore, it is necessary to have a large adhesive force with a small amount of adhesive, and it also needs to have excellent water resistance and cleaning resistance.In this respect, polyamide resin adhesives are better than other thermoplastic adhesives. It is the most preferred among the agents.

In the present invention, this polyamide resin adhesive is distributed in dots on the back surface of either the front body material or the front body material. In order to prevent this and not to lose the soft, natural texture of the outer fabric, it is necessary to have a small adhesive area between the two outer fabrics and to give them an appropriate degree of freedom. In this respect, flat nets, films, and cobweb-shaped adhesive interlinings conventionally used for double-sided bonding are inappropriate.

In order to achieve the purpose of dispersing the polyamide resin adhesive in the form of dots in the present invention described above, the total amount of the adhesive is 20 to 30 g per 1 m ² and the amount of the adhesive is 20 to 30 g per 1 cm ² in the dispersed dots. Use at a rate of 25 to 50. That is, since the peel strength required for both outer materials to be used is 700 g or more, at least a polyamide adhesive is applied in a total amount of 20 to 30 g per 1 m ² per 1 cm ² .
It is necessary to arrange them in the form of 25 to 50 dispersed dots, and in order to maintain the peel strength at 700 g or more and suppress hardening, the total amount is preferably 22 to 24 per ¹ m2.
30 to 45 pieces per cm ² are arranged in uniformly dispersed dots.

The following is a first example of the implementation of the manufacturing process of the present invention.
This will be explained with reference to the drawings and FIG. In this embodiment, in addition to gluing the outer fabric of the body and the outer fabric of the front body, an adhesive method similar to that of the present invention is used to fabricate the collar. FIG. 1 shows each of the outer fabrics cut out, and a predetermined amount of the polyamide resin adhesive a described above was placed on the back surfaces of the facing fabric 1 and the upper collar fabric 2 in the form of uniformly dispersed dots. In the case of the collar, the adhesive a may be provided on the back surface of the lower collar outer material 3 instead of the upper collar outer material 2. Therefore, each outer material of the front body 4, narrow belly 5, back 6, top sleeve 7, and lower sleeve 8 is coated with adhesive a.
is not installed.

As shown in Figure 2, which shows the actual manufacturing process, after the edges of the front body outer material 4 are removed, the edge-removed narrow belly outer material 5 is sewn to form the side darts, and then the pockets are made.
As shown in the first figure, a front end tape 9 and a collar tape 10 are attached to the outer material 4 of the front body. On the other hand, the outer material has been trimmed at the edges (adhesive is placed on the back side)
After sewing the back pocket to the outer material 4 of the front body, the outer material 4 of the front body is sewn with a basic seam, and both are folded back to form the outer material 1 of the front body.
The back side of the front body outer material 4 is made to face each other, and the front end is ironed to shape the front end portion, and the overlapping position of the front body outer material 1 and the front body outer material 4 is adjusted, and both are heated and pressure welded with an iron for a short time to temporarily fasten them. to prevent the two from shifting in position during the next bonding process.

Next, using a mold selected according to the body shape at the time of finishing, it is heated to 135 to 145℃ at 3.5 to 4.0 kg per ^m2 for 10
For ~15 seconds, heat and pressure welding is performed to completely adhere the body part outer material 1 and the front body outer material 4. However, as shown in the first diagram, the collar attachment part 1 formed on the outer periphery of the facing material 1
1. Adhesive tapes 13 and 14 are attached to the adhesive a on the back side of the sleeve part 12 to prevent adhesion and form a non-adhesive part when it is heated and pressed to the front body outer material 4 using the mold described above. .

On the other hand, a back lining (not shown) is separately placed on the back outer material 6 as usual, and sleeves are sewn from the top sleeve outer material 7 and the lower sleeve outer material 8. The collar is made by stitching the upper collar outer material 2 and the lower collar outer material 3 to which end tape 15 is attached for reinforcing the edges as shown in the first figure, and then folding both outer materials 2 and 3 so that the back sides face each other. Then, the ends are shaped with an iron, the overlapped parts of both outer materials 2 and 3 are aligned, and temporarily fixed with an iron for a short time. Using a mold selected according to the desired shape at the time of finishing, the above-mentioned outer material is shaped. The collar is formed by adhering the entire surface in the same manner as the adhesion between 1 and the outer material 4 of the front body. The back, collar, and sleeves formed in this way are sewn together using the non-bonded parts of the body part and the front body part that have already been glued together in the same manner as in the past.

In the above embodiment, the body part 1 and the front body part 4
Both outer materials 1 and 4 were ground sewn prior to adhering them to the outer material. It does not impede the object of the present invention to sew the front end portion which is the non-bonded portion.

FIGS. 3 and 4 show an example of the present invention in which not only the body part 1 and the front body part 4 are bonded together, but also the lining is bonded to each part of the front body part 4, the narrow belly part 5, and the back part 6 with adhesive. Another example will be shown.

FIG. 3 shows the cutout of each outer material, and unlike the previous embodiment, the adhesive a was applied to the back surfaces of the front outer material 4, the narrow outer material 5, the back outer material 6, and the collar outer material 3.
As is clear from the manufacturing process diagram of this embodiment shown in FIG. All that is required is to temporarily fasten it with an iron or the like, and to adhere the lining to each of the narrow outer material 5 and the back outer material 6 with adhesive a on the back surface in advance.

In both of the above examples, the adhesion conditions between the front body outer material 1 and the front outer material 4 were set at 135 to 145°C and ^3.5 g/m2.
It was shown that heat and pressure welding can be performed for 10 to 15 seconds at ~4.0Kg, but these may vary slightly depending on the material and thickness of the outer material used, but below 135℃, the adhesive is not sufficiently melted. At temperatures above 145°C, problems such as yellowing of the surface material ^occur due to high temperatures.
If the pressure is less than 3.5Kg, the molten adhesive will not penetrate into the fibers of the other outer material, and if it is more than 4.0Kg, the scattered adhesive will be crushed and the adhesive area per piece will become large, making the outer material stiff and soft. In addition, if the pressure welding time is less than 10 seconds, the amount of adhesive melted will be insufficient, and if it is more than 15 seconds, it will not only have a negative effect on the surface material, but also cause the scattered adhesive to flow and damage the bonded area. becomes large, which is not good. As is clear from the above descriptions of various types, in the present invention, the outer material of the body part and the outer material of the front body, which occupy a large area of heavy clothing, are directly bonded with adhesive and sewn, so that the overall size of the garment is significantly reduced. Since a polyamide-based resin adhesive is used for this bonding, the peel strength between the bonded outer material and the outer material of the front body is strong, and the water resistance and cleaning resistance are excellent. 20-30g of agent per ^1m2 , per ^1cm2
Since they are arranged in 25 to 50 dots, both outer materials are evenly bonded by the adhesive, and even though the entire surface is bonded, the adhesion area of each individual adhesive is small, so there is a certain amount of freedom between the two outer materials. The desired silhouette can be achieved by heat-pressure welding with a mold that matches the body shape when finished by curing the adhesive. By mutually reinforcing both outer materials without giving rise to a difference in expansion and contraction, it is possible to manufacture garments with less deformation.Furthermore, when bonding both outer materials,
Adhesive tape is pasted on the back of the collar and sleeve parts of the outer material on which the adhesive is applied, so a non-adhesive part is formed between the two outer materials at the collar and sleeve parts, and therefore, it is sewn separately. It is easy to sew the finished collar and sleeves and can be manufactured continuously, and conventional manufacturing processes such as cutting the adhesive interlining and gluing the adhesive interlining to the outer material are omitted. Therefore, it is effective in providing a method of manufacturing clothes with high production efficiency.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

The illustrations show an example of the implementation of the present invention. Figure 1 is a plan view showing the outer material used, Figure 2 is a line diagram showing the manufacturing process, and Figure 3 shows the outer material used in other embodiments. The plan view shown in FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the manufacturing process of FIG. 3. 1...Front body outer material, 4...Front body outer material.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. At least the outer material of the body part and the front body part is made of a material with substantially the same expansion and contraction rate, and a polyamide resin adhesive is dispersed in a total amount of 20 to 30 g per ¹ m2. Dots are placed at a rate of 25 to 50 ^per 1cm2 on either the back side of the front body fabric or the back side of the front body fabric, and the adhesive is applied to the collar and sleeve areas of the outer fabric. Attach adhesive tape to the back side of the section, make the back sides of both outer fabrics face each other, and after or prior to applying the ground stitching of the facing fabric to the front body outer fabric, apply the adhesive tape for basic stitching. Paste the tape and use a mold that matches the finished body shape to adhere the back sides of both outer fabrics by heat pressure welding, then peel off the adhesive tape and apply a non-stick adhesive to the collar and sleeve areas of both outer fabrics. A method of manufacturing clothing using an adhesive, which is characterized by forming an adhesive part and then sewing separately sewn backs, collars, and sleeves. 2. Heat the mold to 135-145°C on the surface of the outer material, which is not coated with the adhesive, with the back sides of the outer material facing the body and the outer material of the front body facing each other, and apply the mold at 3.5-4.0 kg per ¹ m2.
A method for manufacturing clothes using the adhesive according to claim 1, characterized in that the adhesive is pressed for 10 to 15 seconds.