JPS6146577B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric having fluff and a soft feel like velor using synthetic fiber filament yarn. Generally, velor-like fabrics are obtained by raising woolen fabrics, and are characterized by the extremely soft feel of the fluff and the gentle luster of the surface. Conventionally, when velor-like woven or knitted fabrics are made using synthetic fiber filament yarns, the thickness of the woven or knitted fabric is not sufficient, making it difficult to raise the yarn, or even if the yarn is raised, the condition of the nap is poor, making it difficult to create a fabric with a satisfying tactile feel. I couldn't get it.

The present invention improves these conventional drawbacks, and
To provide a method for producing a velor-like woven or knitted fabric that has dense naps and is soft and warm.

That is, the present invention uses a synthetic fiber filament yarn with a single fiber denier of 1.5 to 5 deniers and a single fiber filament yarn with a single fiber denier that accounts for 40 to 70% by weight of the whole.
An ultrafine synthetic fiber filament yarn having a diameter of 0.1 to 1 denier is fed in an overfeed amount of 3 to 15%, and the ultrafine synthetic fiber filament yarn is processed in a fluid turbulence region while being supplied with a larger feed amount. This is a method for producing a velor-like woven or knitted fabric, which is characterized in that the woven or knitted fabric is woven or knitted using the composite yarn obtained by the process, and then the woven or knitted fabric is finished by buffing.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

1 of the synthetic fiber filament yarns used in the present invention
One type is a filament yarn made of synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, polyacrylic, etc., with a single fiber denier in the range of 1.5 to 5 deniers. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of texture, the single fiber denier is preferably in the range of 2 to 3 deniers, and it is preferable to use polyester as the type of synthetic fiber.
If the single fiber denier is less than 1.5 denier, the resulting woven or knitted fabric will have poor repellency, and if the single fiber denier exceeds 5 denier, the woven or knitted fabric will be coarse and hard, and both will impair the feel of the woven or knitted fabric. Such synthetic fiber filament yarns may be produced by conventional methods, but more preferably have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10 to 25%.
It is desirable that the yarn be made of a high shrinkage synthetic fiber filament yarn, or contain 30% or more of such a high shrinkage synthetic fiber filament yarn.

Next, the other filament yarn used in the present invention is an ultra-fine synthetic fiber filament yarn with a single fiber denier in the range of 0.1 to 1 denier, preferably in the range of 0.4 to 0.8 denier. As the type of synthetic fiber, polyester is preferably used. When the single fiber denier is less than 0.1 denier, the napped fibers lack stiffness and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric tends to become sticky, making it impossible to obtain a desirable texture. If the single fiber denier exceeds 1.0 denier, the napped fibers are thick and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes hard, making it impossible to obtain a soft surface touch.

These ultra-fine synthetic filament yarns are
It can be obtained by high-speed spinning under constant elongation, but as an example, polyester is melt-spun at a spinning draft of 200 to 700 and a spinning take-off speed of 3000 to 5000 m/min to form a single fiber with a denier of 0.1 to 1 denier. A method of heat-treating the fiber at a temperature of 100° C. or higher and lower than the melting point while elongating the fiber at a constant length or elongating the fiber by 20% or less can be mentioned.

Further, in the present invention, it is necessary that the above-mentioned ultrafine synthetic fiber filament yarn is used in an amount of 40 to 70% by weight of the total.

If the content of the ultra-fine synthetic fiber filament yarn is less than 40%, the amount of nap on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric will decrease and a warm velor cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 70%, the single fiber denier will be 1.5-5 denier The proportion of filament yarn used decreases, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with poor resilience, and in any case, the effects of the present invention cannot be obtained.

The present invention provides a method for obtaining a velor-like woven or knitted fabric by treating the above-mentioned yarn in a fluid turbulence region to form a composite yarn, weaving and knitting the yarn using the composite yarn, and then finishing the woven fabric by buffing. It is. The term "processing in a fluid turbulence area" as used herein means, for example, generating fluid turbulence using a fluid jet nozzle (Taslan nozzle) or the like, and processing the yarn in this fluid turbulence area.

In the present invention, when processing yarn in a fluid turbulence region, the overfeed amount of the yarn supplied to the fluid treatment region is set to 3 to 15%, and the feed amount of ultra-fine synthetic fiber filament yarn is adjusted to overfeed other synthetic fibers. The feed amount is set to be larger than the feed amount of the filament yarn.

That is, the amount of overfeed into the fluid turbulence region needs to be in the range of 3 to 8% for synthetic fiber filament yarns with a single fiber denier of 1.5 to 5 deniers, and 8% for ultrafine synthetic fiber filament yarns. It is necessary to be in the range of ~15%.
If the overfeed amount is less than 3%, the effect of the fluid turbulence treatment is small, and if the overfeed amount exceeds 15%, the loop due to the fluid turbulence treatment becomes large, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with a rough and hard texture. The effects of the present invention cannot be obtained. Further, the filament supplied to the fluid turbulence treatment area is preferably a non-crimped filament yarn. If the filament is crimped by false twisting or the like, it becomes difficult to obtain a velour-raised filament in a straight line.

Using the composite yarn obtained by the above treatment,
The structure of the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain particularly thin velor, plain weave is preferable for woven fabrics, and jersey or smooth for knitted fabrics.

The buffing finish performed in this invention is 100
A method may be used in which a sand roll or a sand belt having about 400 meshes of sandpaper, sand cloth, sand net, etc. is used to generate naps on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric obtained above.

When the woven or knitted fabric obtained as described above contains polyester filament yarn, it may be subjected to alkali weight loss treatment in order to improve its drapability. This alkaline weight loss treatment may be performed before or after the above-mentioned buffing process, but it can be reduced by 10 to 30% in an alkaline bath at 95 to 100°C.
It is desirable to perform this at a weight loss rate of .

As mentioned above, the single fiber denier is 1.5 to 5.
Synthetic fiber filament yarn with a denier and ultra-fine synthetic fiber filament yarn with a monofilament denier of 0.1 to 1 denier are mixed with an overfeed amount of 3 to 15%.
The composite yarn obtained by processing in a fluid turbulence region while supplying the ultra-fine synthetic fiber filament yarn such that the overfeed amount and the single fiber denier are larger than the overfeed amount of the synthetic fiber filament yarn of 1.5 to 5 deniers is It has a type of core-sheath structure in which ultra-fine synthetic fiber filament yarn is mainly located in the outer layer of the composite yarn, and synthetic fiber filament yarn with a monofilament denier of 1.5 to 5 deniers is mainly located in the center. The surface of the velor-like woven and knitted fabric obtained by making a woven or knitted fabric using a composite yarn with such a structure and then finishing this woven or knitted fabric by buffing is
It is made up of extremely fine single fibers of 0.1 to 1 denier, giving it an extremely soft surface and an elegant luster.

In addition, during the buffing finish, the above-mentioned composite yarn is obtained in a slightly bulky state by the fluid turbulence treatment, and the outer layer of the composite yarn is mainly composed of ultra-fine single fibers. Since it has a core-sheath structure, even thin woven and knitted fabrics with a small basis weight can be easily raised.

That is, since the surface of the woven or knitted material is covered with ultrafine fibers, it can be easily raised with extremely small force and with fine mesh sandpaper.

Therefore, velor, which could not be produced using conventional thin woven or knitted fabrics, can be easily obtained by the method of the present invention, and the uses of velor-like woven or knitted fabrics can be further expanded.

Furthermore, the composite yarn used in the present invention has a central portion mainly occupied by a relatively thick synthetic fiber filament yarn with a monofilament denier of 1.5 to 5 deniers, and has been subjected to fluid turbulence treatment. Because of this structure, the woven or knitted fabric made of the composite yarn has excellent repellency and excellent texture. Furthermore, if the synthetic fiber filament yarn located in the center contains a high shrinkage synthetic fiber filament yarn, the high shrinkage synthetic fiber filament yarn will shrink, so that a woven or knitted fabric made of such a composite yarn Since the density of the fibers napped on the surface can be increased, the napped effect can be further enhanced, and a woven or knitted fabric with excellent texture can be obtained.

Furthermore, since the composite yarn used in the present invention is obtained by turbulence treatment, the woven or knitted fabric made of the composite yarn exhibits excellent pilling properties. The reason for this is that the outer layer of the composite yarn has a structure in which ultra-fine synthetic fiber filament yarn is mainly located. This is thought to be because the movement of the single fibers in the woven or knitted fabric is restricted because the single fibers of the ultra-fine synthetic fiber filament yarn have a structure in which they are closely intertwined with each other.
Therefore, even if the fibers are raised and are on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, they cannot move or come out.
The napped fibers are less likely to get tangled and pilling is less likely to occur.

Examples are shown below.

Example 1 Polyester filament yarn (50 denier/24
Fluid processing was performed using a compressed air pressure of 4.5 Kg/cm ² with an overfeed amount of 3% for the filament and a 9% overfeed amount for the ultra-fine polyester filament yarn (64 denier/144 filament) obtained by high-speed spinning. The obtained composite yarn was simultaneously supplied to the area and treated, and a plain weave fabric was woven at a density of 41 threads/cm in warp and 35 threads/cm in weft. The fabric was buffed using a roller (rotation speed: 1000 γ/m) having a mesh of 200 emery paper to obtain a velor-like fabric having a soft fluffy feel and a gentle surface gloss.

Example 2 Ultra-fine polyester filament yarn (32 denier/12 filaments) obtained by high-shrinkage polyester filament yarn (30 denier/12 filaments) with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 23% at a 3% overfeed amount and high speed spinning.
72 filament) was simultaneously supplied to a fluid treatment area set at a pneumatic pressure of 4.5 Kg/ ^cm2 at an overfeed rate of 8%, and the resulting composite yarn was used to warp.
A plain weave fabric was woven with a density of 53 threads/cm and a weft of 47 threads/cm.

The fabric is buffed using a roller with a mesh of 150 emery cloth (rotation speed: 1,000 γ/m) to produce a velor-like fabric with a high density of napped fibers, fluff that is soft to the touch, and has a gentle surface gloss. I was able to get it.

Example 3 Using the composite yarn obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, a jersey (flat knit) was knitted using a 28-gauge sinker machine, and the knitted fabric was lightly knitted using a roller with a mesh 150 emery cloth. It was possible to obtain a velor-like knitted fabric with fluff and a soft touch by finishing the buffing process.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Synthetic fiber filament yarn with a single fiber denier of 1.5 to 5 denier and the proportion of the total used is 40 to 70.
An ultra-fine synthetic fiber filament yarn having a single fiber denier of 0.1 to 1 denier in a non-crimped state, and the overfeed amount of the former is 3 to 8.
%, the latter is characterized in that it is woven and knitted using a composite yarn obtained by processing in a fluid turbulence region while supplying an overfeed amount in the range of 8 to 15%, and then the woven or knitted fabric is finished by buffing. A method for producing velor-like woven and knitted fabrics.