JPS6157426B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] The present invention provides a simple and inexpensive method for producing wool crepe kimono fabrics that form deeply uneven "wrinkles" that have not been previously available, are rich in elegance and luxury, and do not impair the unique texture of wool. It is something that we try to obtain.

Traditional crepe kimono began with silk fabrics using warp and silk threads, and then wool crepe kimono appeared, using silk thread or synthetic yarn for the warp and wool thread for the weft. The weft of the wool is further twisted with a strong twist of 400 to 500 T/M (number of twists per meter) or more, and this twisted state is temporarily maintained by gluing the yarn and inserting it into the warp of silk or synthetic yarn. Weaving is carried out, and then scouring and desizing are performed to create a "shibo", or the weft threads twisted in the forward and reverse directions are pasted and then alternately inserted into the warp threads to create a texture, and then desizing is performed to create a "shibo". '', but in both cases there was little ``graining'' and it was not possible to obtain a texture that was satisfactory.

Another drawback was that even if grains were formed, the grains would disappear over time due to the resilience of wool yarn.

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing "wool crepe" in which the "wrinkles" are tightly formed and do not disappear even with the passage of time. It is preferable to use a fine count of ^S (metric count) or higher.

In the present invention, a fine-count worsted yarn is additionally twisted to the left by nearly 1000 T/M, and a synthetic fiber monofilament 1 having a fineness of 5 deniers or more is twisted in the opposite direction to the twisting of the worsted yarn to form a weft yarn A.

That is, it is a highly twisted detent cover yarn that permanently maintains the twisted state of the strongly twisted worsted yarn. In addition, another thin thread of worsted yarn is twisted in the same direction as the worsted yarn of weft A (nearly twice the normal twist (nearly 1000 T/M)), and a soluble glue 2 such as starch glue or polyvinyl alcohol glue is applied to this. The weft yarn B is temporarily maintained in a twisted state.

Therefore, in contrast to warp C, which has a fine count of worsted yarn, weft yarn A
The present invention relates to a method for producing a wool crepe kimono fabric, characterized in that the weft yarns B and weft yarns B are alternately (every other yarn) implanted.

This manufactured raw woven fabric is subjected to a conventional scouring process for 70 minutes.
By heat-treating the material at ~95°C and drying it, a wool crepe garment with deep, uneven "wrinkles" can be obtained.

The woven fabric produced by the production method of the present invention has a weft A that can permanently maintain a twisted state with a cover yarn of monofilament 1, a synthetic fiber with a fine count of strongly twisted worsted wool, and a soluble sizing agent 2 made of a fine count of strongly twisted worsted wool. The twisted set of the weft yarns B, which are glued together and temporarily maintained in a twisted state, is connected to the warp yarns C.
By alternately driving the weft yarns into the weft yarns, two types of special twists with different shapes of weft yarns are created.The weft yarns A remain strongly twisted during wet treatment such as scouring and desizing after weaving. , weft yarn A is untwisted to some extent by desizing, and different swelling and contraction differences occur between adjacent weft yarns A and B, and this difference has a synergistic effect on the generation of "grain". It has the characteristic of being able to form deeply uneven "wrinkles" without sacrificing the unique texture of wool, which cannot be obtained with wool crepe.

Moreover, the weft yarn A is a synthetic fiber monofilament 1 cover yarn that maintains its twisted state permanently, which suppresses the restoring force that is characteristic of wool yarn, and the deep wrinkles that are formed do not disappear and last forever. It has both.

Furthermore, if the synthetic fiber monofilament of the weft A in the present invention has a fineness of, for example, 15 denier, the blending ratio is 99% wool and 1% synthetic fiber, so it can be sufficiently called as pure wool kimono fabric, and is a wool crepe kimono fabric. This invention is extremely useful as a manufacturing method.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is an organization chart of the present invention, FIG. 2 is an enlarged front view of weft A, and FIG. 3 is an enlarged front view of weft B. A...Weft, B...Weft, 1...Synthetic fiber monofilament, C...Warp, 2...Soluble sizing agent.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 A fine worsted yarn is twisted in the left direction to approximately 1000 T/M, and a synthetic fiber monofilament with a fineness of 5 denier or more is twisted in the opposite direction to the twisting of the weft yarn A, and another fine worsted yarn is twisted. The weft B is twisted in the same direction as the worsted yarn of the weft A, and a soluble sizing agent is glued thereto, and the weft A and the weft B are alternately twisted against the warp yarn of the fine count of the worsted yarn. A method for producing wool crepe kimono fabric characterized by having a textured structure.