JPS6235512B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] In recent years, clothing materials have become increasingly diverse in line with the diversification of clothing lifestyles. In particular, new materials are being created one after another due to the development of complex and diverse high-order processing methods using existing polymer materials. is being created.

The present invention relates to a fabric with a new structure that has a natural leather-like surface morphology, a flexible touch, and the thinness, strength, drapability, shape stability, and air permeability of a knitted fabric.

Conventionally, it has been widely practiced to add a silver surface consisting of a film layer to the surface of knitted fabrics to give them a leather-like appearance.

However, such artificial leather does not have drapability, breathability, etc. close to that of knitted fabrics. On the other hand, if the film layer is made macroporous in order to maintain these functional characteristics, the appearance will no longer have a silvery appearance, and if the elastomer content is excessively reduced, the knitting structure will become visible, thereby eliminating the commercial value of artificial leather.

In order to make the knitting structure less noticeable, it is possible to transfer a very small amount of elastomer onto the surface of a raised knitted fabric of normal fineness, but even in that case, the stitches and weave structure of the base fabric can be discerned, so it will not look like silver. . In addition, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-20286,
50-5503 describes an example in which a very small amount of elastomer is transferred to the surface of a substrate made of ultrafine fiber nonwoven fabric and elastomer ground with sandpaper, but these are substrate structures and are not knitted fabrics. You cannot expect functionality similar to that of knitted fabrics. For example, it is necessary to impregnate the base with a large amount of elastomer to maintain the entanglement of the constituent fibers, and as a result of increasing the thickness to maintain strength, it is not able to exhibit drapability or air permeability similar to that of knitted fabrics.

The present inventor has arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive research into a new fabric that has both the functionality of knitted fabrics and the silvery appearance of leather. In other words, the present invention
A silver surface formed by fuzz of ultrafine fibers of 0.5 d or less being separated into single fibers, fixed with resin in a face down state, and embossed;
A fabric having the function of a knitted fabric and the appearance of leather, which has a base made of a knitted fabric, and is characterized by the presence of 0.5 to 10 wt% of the resin based on the fibers constituting the fabric, concentrated on the silver surface. be.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The fuzz constituting the silver surface of the present invention is required to have a single fiber size of 0.5 d or less. What is interesting is that when the thickness is less than 0.5d, it is difficult to discern the knitting/weaving structure of the base fabric, and the silver surface appears as if it were made of an opaque film layer. In particular, when it is less than 0.3 d, it is almost impossible to distinguish between the base fabric knitted structure and the single fibers. One of the reasons is that the fuzz of ultra-fine fibers has strong plasticity, and when adhesively fixed in a prone position, it is difficult to faithfully reproduce the shape of the pressed surface down to the minute details, and it is difficult to identify single fibers. . However, since the diameter of a 0.3d fiber is usually 5-6μ, it is very surprising that it becomes indistinguishable. What's more, this silver surface retains the elegant luster and texture unique to ultra-fine fibers.

What is even more interesting is that even if the knitted fabric has a visible base tissue in its napped state, it becomes difficult to see the base tissue when the fluff is turned down. This is probably because the light blocking area by the fluff is maximized. Furthermore, embossing forces the embossed pattern and makes the underlying tissue very difficult to discern. For example, what appears to be a woven texture in the raised state may become completely grainy after embossing. Furthermore, in the raised state, the textile structure is normally hidden depending on the direction of the fluff, but this does not occur in the present invention.

Furthermore, the ultrafine fiber must be divided into single fibers. A thin and uniform silver surface cannot be obtained by maintaining the form of bundled threads.

The material of the microfiber is polyamide, polyester,
Polyacrylic, rayon, etc. are used.

The requirement for creating a grain surface in which the weave structure of the monofilament and the base fabric cannot be distinguished is that the fiber be ultra-fine, and the material is not an important issue. There are no particular restrictions on the length of the fluff, but generally 0.5 to 5.0 mm is appropriate; if it is too short (0.5 mm or less), the stitches or weave of the base knitted fabric will be damaged even after the grain surface is formed. It is undesirable because it is visible, and if it is 5 mm or more,
It becomes difficult to align the hair when forming the silver surface.

An important requirement for achieving the object of the present invention is that the nap density must be sufficiently large. Specifically, the nap density (here, single yarn fineness
(Description of napping of 0.5 denier or less) It is extremely preferable that the napping is about 20,000 strands/cm ² or more. If it is less than this, it is difficult to form a good silver surface by the resin coating and embossing steps. There are various ways to measure the nap density. In the case of raising knitted fabrics using a raising machine, the raised multifilament (or spun yarn) yarns that make up the raised fabric are pulled out, and one unit of knitting/weaving (one stitch for knitted fabrics, two phases for woven fabrics) is extracted. Weft yarns sandwiched between adjacent warp yarns) are magnified and observed under a microscope, and among the constituent yarns, we count the number of cut raised parts and the remaining uncut parts. The nap density can be calculated from the value by multiplying by the course, well density (knitted fabric), or warp/weft density (measurable by a conventional method).

When a raised surface is obtained by flocking, it can be easily calculated from the fineness of the flocked single fibers and the flocked weight density (actual measurement: g/cm ² ).

The properties required of the knitted fabric constituting the base of the fabric of the present invention are not so different from those required of ordinary knitted fabrics. Therefore, the constituent fibers of the base are
It does not have to be less than 0.5 d, but rather 1 to 10 d, especially about 1.5 to 6 d, is desirable because it gives the fabric appropriate tension and elasticity. However, if it is made from a raised fabric containing ultrafine fibers, ultrafine fibers are used for the weft and fibers of normal fineness are used for the warp. In this case, since the bulkiness of the ultrafine fibers is poor, it is particularly preferable to use bulkiness in the warp yarns to increase the weaving density and at the same time compensate for the lack of bulkiness in the warp yarns.
It is also good to arrange a second weft on the back side to compensate for the characteristics in the weft direction. When fibers that are exfoliated and become extremely fine during napping are used as weft yarns, the base portion can be composed only of fibers of normal fineness. In these cases, it is common to have 3 to 8 weft yarns floating above the warp yarns to improve the napping properties. Note that the fluff of the fabric of the present invention may be formed by flocking. In that case, the length, density,
It has the advantage of being able to reliably adjust the underlying tissue.
In the present invention, the amount of resin needs to be 0.5 to 10 wt% based on the constituent fibers of the fabric. As will be described later, in the present invention, it is sufficient to apply the resin only to the surface that substantially forms the silver surface, and if the resin is present in other areas, the air permeability and drapability will also be reduced. Therefore, the object of the present invention could only be achieved by adopting a structure in which a small amount of the resin is present unevenly on the grain surface.

If it exceeds 10wt%, it becomes rubber-like and the original texture of the fabric is lost. When it is less than 0.5wt%, the silver surface becomes fluffy due to abrasion. To be more precise, the amount of resin suitable for maintaining a mirror surface is 1 to 20 g/m ²
However, it is not fatal to maintain the functionality of the knitted fabric if the base also contains resin in an amount not exceeding 10 wt% of the constituent fibers. The amount of resin contained in the silver surface is 1
~20g/m ² makes it possible to take advantage of the excellent air permeability of knitted fabrics. Particularly preferred is 2 to 10 g/
^m2 . It has already been mentioned that when the single fiber fineness of the fluff is 0.5d or more, the base fabric structure and single fibers can be distinguished and it is difficult to get a silvery look, but in addition, a large amount of resin is required to fix the fluff in a face down state. As a result, the drapability and breathability of knitted fabrics are impaired.

The resin used in the present invention is preferably an elastomer used for general synthetic leather and the like. Although it may be possible to use a material that cannot be called an elastomer, it is not desirable in terms of texture. Further, the silver surface of the present invention is composed of a composite surface of ultrafine fibers and resin, and is not composed of a film-like resin layer. In other words, the silver surface is formed by the resin that is interposed between the fibers and fixes the fuzz, and the ultrafine fibers that are at least partially exposed.

This maintains the elegant luster of the ultra-fine fibers. A silver surface with such a structure can be achieved by applying a resin solution to the fluff of ultrafine fibers using a gravure coater or a kiss coater and drying the coater. Prior to resin application, it is desirable to level the fluff. In some cases, applying a light press or calendering is also effective in creating a distinctive surface.

To form a silver surface, a polymer solution or emulsion is applied to the raised surface of the ultrafine fibers, and wet coagulation or dry coagulation is performed. From the viewpoint of flexibility and stability of the silver surface, polyurethane resin is most preferably used as the polymer, and it can be either a one-component type or a two-component type. Other polymer resins such as acrylic resin, amino acid resin, and cellulose resin can also be used in combination to control physical properties such as adhesion between fluff, hardness, and moisture permeability. In order to provide a soft touch, it is necessary to set the amount of resin applied so that it is not too large, and it is desirable that the amount applied be 2 to 20 g/m ² , depending on the type of resin used. It is not necessary to apply such a coating amount in a single coating operation, and it is preferable to form a silver surface by controlling the polymer concentration and the coating amount in a single coating operation. Although the fabric of the present invention has a silvery finish, it has extremely excellent liquid permeability and can be dyed in reverse. Of course, the object of the present invention can also be achieved by turning down the fluff after dyeing and bonding with resin.

When the fabric of the present invention is embossed, the embossed pattern is forced, which not only makes the textile structure at the base even more difficult to see;
Stabilizes the integrated layered structure consisting of the knitted fabric and the base,
It is applied to give durability to the surface morphology and physical properties. Therefore, it is necessary to change the embossing conditions as appropriate depending on the type and amount of resin, the polymer material of the knitted fabric, the thickness, and the purpose of use, but in general,
In the present invention, the temperature is 130-190°C, more preferably
150~180℃, pressure 5~100Kg/ ^m2 , preferably 10
It is carried out under the condition of ~50Kg/ ^m2 .

Although the product of the present invention has a silvery finish, it has a 0.5d
The fluff of the ultra-fine fibers below is fixed with a small amount of resin, and even though the base is a knitted fabric, the coating layer can be made thin without showing the weave or stitches even if it is thin, and has excellent drapability. Moreover, it has high strength and has a large amount of airflow compared to non-woven fabric-based silver-covered artificial leather, which requires considerable impregnation with resin.
In addition, there is a fabric with a leather-like appearance that has excellent liquid permeability even though it has a silver surface, and can be dyed very easily after forming a silver surface. That's what you get.

Next, examples of the present invention will be described.

Note that the measurement method adopted in the examples is as follows.

(1) Tear strength to thickness JIS L 1079 “Chemical fiber fabric test method”
6.13.1 Based on the A-1 method (single tongue method), measure the tear strength (unit: g) and divide it by the fabric thickness (mm) to obtain the thickness-to-thickness tear strength (unit:
g/mm).

Measurement of thickness also conforms to JIS L 1079 (general textiles) 6.4
Based on thickness measurement method.

(2) Air permeability JIS L 1079 “Chemical fiber fabric test method”, 6.29
Depends on ventilation.

(3) Bending resistance JIS L 1079 “Chemical fiber fabric test method”, 6.22
Bending stiffness, based on method A (45° cantilever method).

Example 1 Warp 50D-48f (false twisted yarn) Weft Front 192D-480f Back 192D-480f Density Horizontal 136 pieces/inch Vertical 160 pieces/inch Weave 5-ply satin/2/3/twill/5-ply satin (triple weave) ) Fabric weight: 288 g/m ² One raised surface of a fabric with raised surfaces on both sides made of ultrafine nylon fibers with 0.4 d of raised fibers obtained by raising the above fabric (raised density of approximately 35,000 fibers/cm ² , length of raised fibers) A dimethylformamide (hereinafter abbreviated as DMF) solution containing 15% polyurethane resin was applied onto the surface (average size: 1.5 mm) using a 100-mesh gravure coater, and dried at 90° C. for 3 minutes. Furthermore, repeating the application and drying three times in the same manner, the solid content of 5.
g/m ² of polyurethane resin was applied to form a silver surface made of ultrafine fibers. This silver surface was embossed at 150°C to obtain a soft leather-like fabric with good quality. This fabric was dyed with an acid dye for nylon while adding a slight rubbing effect, and finished and set to obtain a good fabric.

The tear strength relative to the thickness of this product is 5500 g/mm vertically.
The width is 2800g/mm, and the breathability is 7.6cc/cm/sec.
The bending resistance was 27 mm vertically and 31 mm horizontally.

For comparison, the same raised material was treated with a 20-micron polyurethane film using the commonly used polyurethane film adhesion method instead of gravure coating with resin liquid, and the other treatments were the same as in Example 1. The breathability of what I got is 1.0
cc/cm ² /sec or less and cannot be measured by normal methods,
In addition, the texture was less soft than in Example 1, and it felt like touching the film surface. Further, this product could not be dyed uniformly and with good quality using the same dyeing method as in Example 1.

Example 2 Weft: Front 145D-1440f (false twisted yarn) Back: 50D-48f Warp: 50D-54f (pre-twisted yarn) Density: Width: 136 pieces/inch Vertical: 182 pieces/inch Texture: Front: 5-ply satin Back: Twill Weight: 195 g/m ² A woven fabric having one side of the raised surface (napping density of about 80,000 fibers/cm ² ) made of ultrafine polyethylene terephthalate fibers with a single fiber fineness of 0.1 denier or less obtained by raising the above fabric (the average length of the naps is 1 mm). A DMF solution containing 13% polyurethane resin was applied using a 150-mesh gravure coater and dried at 90°C for 3 minutes. Repeat the same application/drying process,
A resin was applied at a rate of 4.3 g/m ² to form a silver surface. This silver surface is embossed at 170℃,
Thereafter, a dyeing process was carried out to obtain a fabric having a silver surface with a good texture close to calfskin. The tear strength relative to the thickness of this material was 2800 g/mm in the vertical direction and 5600 g/mm in the horizontal direction, the air permeability was 3.3 cc/cm ² /sec, and the bending strength was 36 mm in the vertical direction and 30 mm in the horizontal direction.

Example 3 Warp (common) 50D-24f (prelia processed yarn) Weft Front 245D-1440f Back 50D-48f Density Horizontal 136/inch Vertical 162/inch Weight 220g/m ² weave 5-ply satin/2/3 twill Above Calendaring is applied to a dyed fabric (average napping length 2.0 mm) with a napping surface (napping density of about 60,000 fibers/cm ² ) made of ultrafine polyethylene terephthalate fibers with a single filament fineness of 0.13 denier obtained by napping the fabric. The surface was exposed while pressing the nap, and then polyurethane resin was applied and embossing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The fabric had a touch and arm more similar to that of calfskin than that obtained in Example 1, and had a silver surface with a high quality texture and a slightly stiff texture.

For comparison, a dyed fabric with a raised surface made of polyethylene terephthalate with a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier was subjected to exactly the same treatment as above, but the resin coating did not adhere the raised fibers together sufficiently, resulting in a silver-like appearance.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a 60 times enlarged photograph of the silver surface of the fabric of the present invention (obtained in Example 2). Figure 2 shows a 120x enlarged photograph of a cross section of the same fabric. FIG. 3 is a three-fold enlarged photograph of the silver surface of the fabric of the present invention, and FIG.
3. The raised side of the raised fabric used to make the fabric shown in the figure.
A double enlarged photo is shown.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Ultrafine fiber fuzz of 0.5 d or less is separated into single fibers, fixed with resin in a face down state, and has a silver surface formed by embossing and a base made of knitted fabric. A fabric having the function of a knitted fabric and the appearance of leather, characterized in that 0.5 to 10 wt% of the resin is present with respect to the fibers constituting the fabric, biased toward the silver surface.