JPS6327456B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a mixed fiber yarn that can impart good texture to woven or knitted fabrics. In recent years, in order to give woven and knitted fabrics an elegant appearance, soft texture, and drapability, ultrafine yarns with a single yarn fineness of about 1 denier or 0.5 finer than 1 denier have been used.
Ultra-fine filament yarns of ~0.8 denier have been developed and are becoming commercially available. Woven and knitted fabrics using ultra-fine filament yarn or ultra-fine filament yarn (hereinafter referred to collectively as ultra-fine filament yarn) certainly have excellent characteristics in terms of soft texture and drapability, but on the other hand, they have poor waist and The drawback is that it lacks tension. Conventionally, in order to give stiffness and tension to woven or knitted fabrics, filament yarns with thin single filament fineness and filament yarns with thick single filament fineness made of polymers of the same composition have been combined and drawn in a drawing process, or combined in a higher processing process. Mixed fiber yarns produced by twisting or by simultaneous spinning of thin filaments of single filament fineness and thick filaments of single filament fineness have been widely adopted. but,
When dyeing a mixed yarn consisting of a thin filament with a single filament fineness and a filament with a thick single filament fineness made of polymers of the same composition, the thin filament with a single filament fineness is dyed in a light color, and the thick filament is dyed in a dark color. A major drawback was that uneven dyeing and irritation occurred due to differences in dyeing between filaments. Figure 1 shows an example of the relationship between the single yarn fineness and the lightness (L value) of the dyed area when ordinary round cross-section filament yarns with different single yarn finenesses are knitted into tubes and dyed in the same bath. As the single yarn fineness decreases from
It can be seen that the L value increases (the color becomes lighter), and especially in the region where the single yarn fineness is smaller than 1.5 denier, the dyeing becomes lighter rapidly. For this reason, in conventional mixed fiber yarns made of polymers with the same composition, a combination in which the single yarn fineness has a relatively small influence on dyeability is adopted in the range of about 2 to 8 deniers, and single yarn fineness of less than 1.5 denier, In particular, there is no known mixed fiber yarn that does not have the above-mentioned defects and is made of ultra-fine filaments of less than 1 denier and filaments of 2 to 3 deniers or more, which are effective in imparting stiffness and tension. The present inventors have attempted to obtain a blended fiber yarn that maintains the excellent characteristics of ultra-fine filament yarn such as the graceful appearance and soft texture, has stiffness and tension, and does not have the above-mentioned dyeing defects. The present invention was arrived at as a result of intensive study on the purpose. That is, the present invention consists of an ultrafine filament group and a hollow filament group, both filament groups are mixed fiber yarns made of polymers of the same composition, and the fineness of the single yarn d ₁ constituting the ultrafine filament group and the hollow filament group are The single yarn fineness d ₂ is as follows (),
It is a mixed yarn characterized by satisfying formulas () and () at the same time and having a CF value of 5 to 70. 0.4≦d ₁ ≦1.2 (denier) () 1.5≦d ₂ ≦4.0 (denier) () 2.0≦d ₂ /d ₁ ≦4.5 () Next, the structure and effects of the present invention will be described in detail. It is necessary that the group of ultrafine filaments constituting the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention be made of polymers having substantially the same composition. One of the purposes of the present invention is to obtain a uniform knitted fabric without uneven dyeing, so when the ultrafine filament and the hollow filament are made of different polymers, the dyeing properties of the polymers are different and a uniformly dyed fabric can be obtained. Therefore, it is outside the scope of the present invention. The single fiber fineness d ₁ of the ultrafine filament group constituting the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention needs to satisfy the formula (). If the fineness of the single filament of the ultra-fine filament group is less than 0.4 denier, the difference in dyeing between the hollow filament of 1.5 denier or more, which provides stiffness and tension, will be too large, resulting in uneven dyeing and irritation. In addition, it is extremely difficult to produce ultra-fine yarns with a diameter of less than 0.4 denier using the normal melt spinning method, and even if they are obtained, they tend to frequently fluff and break, making them extremely difficult to handle. Process passability in the weaving and weaving process is poor. On the other hand, if the single yarn fineness of the ultra-fine filament group exceeds 1.2 denier, the graceful appearance, soft texture, and drapability characteristic of ultra-fine filaments will be lost. The most preferable range for the single fiber fineness of the ultrafine filament group is 0.5 denier or more and 1.0 denier or less. Note that the fineness of each single yarn constituting the ultra-fine filament group may be the same or different as long as it falls within the range of formula (). Further, the ultrafine filament may be a normal round cross-section yarn or a modified cross-section yarn, but a normal round cross-section yarn is preferable in consideration of the difficulty and cost of spinning the ultrafine filament. The single fiber fineness d ₂ of the hollow filament group, which is the other component constituting the mixed yarn, must satisfy the formula (). Note that, as long as the fineness of each single yarn constituting the hollow filament group is within the range of formula (), it does not matter if all the single yarns have the same fineness or different finenesses. If the single yarn fineness of the hollow filament is less than 1.5 denier, it is difficult to provide sufficient stiffness and tension to the woven or knitted fabric, and if it exceeds 4.0 denier, the texture of the woven or knitted fabric becomes rough and hard. Next, we will explain why hollow filaments are used as thick filaments that give stiffness and tension to mixed yarns. Figure 2 shows round-section filament yarn and hollow filament yarn with different single yarn finenesses, each knitted in a tube.
This is a diagram illustrating the results of measuring the lightness (L value) of dyed fabrics when dyed under the same dyeing (same bath) conditions. From this figure, it can be seen that for both round-section filaments and hollow filaments, the lightness (L value) tends to increase as the single filament fineness becomes finer, and when comparing the lightness (L value) of hollow filaments at the same fineness, It can be seen that the brightness is higher than the lightness (L value). Therefore, if hollow filament yarn is used as the thick yarn to be combined with the ultra-fine filament group, the difference in dyeing between the ultra-fine filament yarn and the ultra-fine filament yarn will be much smaller than when using normal filament yarn, resulting in uneven dyeing and unevenness. It is possible to prevent such occurrences.
Incidentally, the difference in lightness that allows defects such as uneven dyeing and irritation when dyed is L value 2.5 or less, particularly preferably 1.5 or less. Another reason for using hollow fibers is that hollow fibers have greater bending rigidity than circular cross-section yarns of the same fineness, and filaments with finer fineness than round cross-section yarns can be used to provide the same stiffness and tension to woven or knitted fabrics. be. The degree of hollowness of the hollow filament used is 5 to 35%.
is preferable, particularly preferably 8 to 25%. If the degree of hollowness is less than 5%, a sufficient hollow effect may not be obtained, and if it exceeds 35%, the effect will not be increased even if the degree of hollowness is further improved, and such hollow fibers with a large degree of hollowness may not be obtained. Stable spinning becomes difficult. Note that the degree of hollowness referred to here is the ratio of the area of the hollow portion to the cross-sectional area of the fiber including the hollow portion. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the hollow filament may be round or hollow. Next, the fineness d ₁ of the single yarns that make up the ultra-fine filament group and the fineness of the single yarns that make up the hollow filament group.
d ₂ needs to satisfy the above formula (). If d ₂ / d ₁ is less than 2.0, it is difficult to provide sufficient elasticity and tension, while if it exceeds 4.5, uneven dyeing may occur.
Dyeing defects such as irritation occur. In addition,
When one or both of the ultra-fine filament group and the hollow filament group are denier yarns, d ₁ in formula () is the fineness of the single yarn with the smallest fineness among the ultra-fine filament groups, and d ₂ is the fineness of the hollow filament. The fineness of the single yarn with the largest fineness in the group shall be used. The range of combinations of single fiber fineness of ultrafine filament and hollow filament that simultaneously satisfy the above-mentioned formulas (), (), and () is shown by the hatched area in FIG. 3. The ratio of the fineness of each filament group to the fineness of the mixed yarn can be determined appropriately depending on the desired texture, stiffness, and tension, but the following (),
It is preferable to set it within the range of formula (). 0.4≦Fineness of ultra-fine filament group/Fineness of mixed yarn≦0.8
5() 0.15≦Fineness of hollow filament group/Fineness of mixed yarn≦0.
60() If the ratio of ultra-fine filaments is less than 0.4 and the ratio of hollow filaments exceeds 0.6, it becomes difficult to provide an elegant appearance or soft texture; on the other hand, if the ratio of ultra-fine filaments exceeds 0.85, If the ratio of hollow filament groups is less than 0.15, a soft texture can be obtained, but the firmness and tension may be insufficient. Methods for obtaining the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention include a method of simultaneously spinning ultrafine filaments and hollow filaments, or a method of spinning them individually and combining them in the drawing process, but the production process is simple and cost-effective. It is preferable to use a method of simultaneous spinning, which is inexpensive and provides a good quality of the mixed yarn. In addition, since the blended yarn of the present invention contains ultra-fine filaments, it is prone to fluffing and yarn breakage during high-level processing processes.In order to prevent these defects, fluid entangling treatment (interlacing treatment) is performed during the production process. ) is necessary. The degree of confounding requires a coherency factor of 5 to 70 as measured by the hook drop method according to US Pat. No. 2,985,995, and 10
~50 is preferred. If the CF value is less than 5, the entangling effect will be insufficient and single yarn breakage will occur frequently in higher processing steps, and if it exceeds 70, irritation due to entanglement will easily occur. The present invention relates to polyethylene terephthalate, polytetramethylene terephthalate, polyethylene-
2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylate, poly-
It can be applied to polyesters such as p-ethyleneoxybenzoate and copolymerized polyesters, and polyamides such as nylon 6,66, but it is easy to impart a good texture to textile fibers for clothing, and it is industrially comparable. Particularly preferred is polyethylene terephthalate, which can be produced at a relatively low cost. Here, polyethylene terephthalate is its constituent unit.
It means a polymer that is essentially polyethylene terephthalate, with 85 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate units. This polyethylene terephthalate may be copolymerized with polyalkylene glycol or sulfonic acid metal salt to improve its dyeability, or may be coated with a suitable light stabilizer,
It may also contain heat stabilizers, matting agents, plasticizers, pigments, surface modifiers, fine powders, flame retardants, and the like. The present invention will be explained below with reference to Examples. Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 g/dl measured at 25°C in an orthochlorophenol solvent were spun at a temperature of 290°C and at a spinning speed of 1.350 m/dl.
min condition, a discharge hole for round-section hollow fiber spinning and a discharge hole for round-section ultra-fine fiber spinning were drilled in the same nozzle (the number of hollow discharge holes and the number of ultra-fine discharge holes were changed depending on the test level). ) to obtain an undrawn yarn of 152 denier. Then, the unstretched paper is stretched at a stretching ratio of
3.1 times, stretching temperature (heating roller temperature) 88℃, stretching heat treatment temperature (hot plate temperature) 140℃, stretching speed
The drawn yarn was drawn at 500 m/min and simultaneously subjected to fluid entanglement treatment to obtain a drawn yarn with a fineness of 50 denier. Furthermore, the obtained drawn yarn is twisted at 2.500T/m to weave satin crepe, and Sumikaron
Staining was performed using BlueS-BG (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical) at 3% owf. The results obtained are shown in Table-1. In this table, level No. 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 13,
14 and 15 are examples of the present invention, level No. 5, 6,
Samples 7, 8, 11, 12 and 16 are comparative examples.

【table】
×: Example 2 in which single yarn breakage occurred frequently. Using the same polyethylene terephthalate chip as in Example 1, ultrafine filament yarn of 50 denier 72 filaments and hollow filament yarn of 25 denier 12 filaments were spun at a temperature of 295°C and a spinning speed.
Individual spinning was performed at 1.350 m/min. Next, the obtained undrawn yarn was stretched at a stretching ratio of 3.15 times and at a stretching temperature of 90
The yarn was drawn at a heat treatment temperature of 140°C and a drawing speed of 550 m/min, and subjected to air entanglement treatment to obtain a mixed yarn of 75 denier and 84 filaments. The mixed fiber yarn has a strength of 4.9 g/d, a boiling water shrinkage rate of 7.1%, and a Worcester unevenness.
It had good filament quality with a degree of entanglement of 0.55% and 38. Next, weave a pares crepe by using the mixed fiber yarn with a twist of 500 times/m as the warp yarn and the yarn with a twist of 2,500 times/m as the weft yarn,
When dyed with 3% owf using Sumikaron Blue S-BG (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical), there was no uneven dyeing or irritation, and the fabric had an elegant texture and drape, and had excellent waist and tension. Obtained.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram showing the relationship between the fineness of a round cross-section filament yarn and the L value of a dyed cloth, and FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram showing the relationship between the fineness of a round cross-section filament yarn and a hollow filament yarn and the L value of a dyed cloth. FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the range of combinations of single fiber fineness of the ultrafine filament group and the hollow filament group constituting the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A mixed fiber yarn consisting of an ultrafine filament group and a hollow filament group, both filament groups made of polymers with the same composition, and the fineness d ₁ of the single yarn constituting the ultrafine filament group and the hollow filament group The fineness d ₂ of the single yarns constituting is the following (), (), ()
A blended yarn that satisfies the following formulas and has a CF value of 5 to 70. 0.4≦d ₁ ≦1.2 (Denier) () 1.5≦d ₂ ≦4.0 (Denier) () 2.0≦d ₂ /d ₁ ≦4.5 () 2 The ultrafine filament group and the hollow filament group are made of polyethylene terephthalate. The mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1. 3. The blend according to claim 1, characterized in that the ratio of the fineness of the ultrafine filament group and the fineness of the hollow filament group to the fineness of the mixed yarn satisfies the following formulas () and (). Thread. 0.4≦Fineness of ultra-fine filament group/Fineness of mixed yarn≦0.8
5() 0.15≦Fineness of hollow filament group/Fineness of mixed yarn≦0.
60()