JPS6352007B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a permanent wave second agent composition, and more particularly to a permanent wave second agent composition that suppresses hair deterioration caused by permanent wave treatment, imparts good texture to the hair, and has excellent permanent wave retention properties. Regarding the composition. The permanent wave method for imparting desired waves to hair uses a permanent wave first agent (hereinafter referred to as "first agent") containing a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid and cysteine as the main component to reduce S in the hair. -S bond is reductively opened, then bromate,
Permanent wave second agent (hereinafter referred to as “second agent”) whose main component is an oxidizing agent such as perborate or hydrogen peroxide
This is a method of oxidative closure with However, with this method, the hair is exposed to adverse conditions such as oxidation and reduction, which causes phenomena such as a decrease in the strength of the hair and deterioration of the texture. When brushing, the brush or comb does not go through well, causing snags, etc.
The hair is damaged by peeling off the epidermis, split ends, and cut hair. Hair deterioration phenomena occur at each stage of permanent wave processing. That is, since the first agent is mainly composed of a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, the hair is swollen by these agents, the keratin protein in the hair is destroyed, and the protein and amino acids are eluted into the treatment solution. This swollen hair is then damaged by an oxidizing agent in treatment with a second agent. However, such a phenomenon caused by the first agent is unavoidable because the S-S bonds in the hair are reductively opened, and therefore, in order to prevent hair deterioration due to permanent wave treatment, the second agent is It is important to minimize oxidative damage to the agent. Conventionally, a method for preventing hair damage caused by the second agent has been to incorporate an oil agent, a humectant, etc. into the composition, but this method has not yet been satisfactory. The present inventors conducted various studies on reducing hair damage caused by permanent waving agents, especially second agents, and as a result, we combined a specific glyceryl ether, a certain surfactant, and a cationic polymer compound, and found that the second agent The present invention has been completed based on the discovery that a second part composition that can prevent hair deterioration and maintain stable waves for a long period of time can be obtained by incorporating the second part into the composition. That is, in the second agent composition of the present invention, the following three components (A), (B) and (C), (A) general formula (), ROCH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OH () (in the formula , R represents a methyl branched saturated hydrocarbon group having 12 to 24 carbon atoms)
This invention provides a permanent wave second agent composition containing glyceryl ether, (B) a surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, and (C) a cationic polymer compound. be. α-mono (methyl branched) which is component (A) of the present invention
Glyceryl ether is a new compound,
Manufactured by the method described in No. 56-39033. Among these α-mono(methyl branched alkyl)glyceryl ethers, ()
R in the formula is the following group (), (In the formula, m is an integer of 2 to 14, n is 3 to 11
, and the sum of m and n is 9 to 21). Among these, more preferable ones are those in which the sum of m and n in formula ( ) is 11 to 21
17 (i.e. the total number of carbon atoms in the alkyl group is 14 to 20)
Among them, the sum of m and n is 15 (ie, the total number of carbon atoms in the alkyl group is 18). Further, the branched methyl group is preferably one near the center of the alkyl main chain. Next, the physical properties of representative compounds of α-mono(methyl branched alkyl)glyceryl ether are shown.

[Table] Among the surfactants that are component (B) of the present invention, examples of anionic surfactants include the following. (1) Straight-chain or branched-chain alkylbenzene sulfonate having an alkyl group having an average carbon number of 10 to 16. (2) A polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether sulfate salt having a linear or branched alkyl group having an average carbon number of 8 to 20 and having an average of 0.5 to 8 moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide added to each molecule. (3) An alkyl sulfate ester salt having a linear or branched alkyl group having an average carbon number of 10 to 20. (4) Olefin sulfonate having an average of 10 to 20 carbon atoms in one molecule. (5) Alkanesulfonate having an average of 10 to 20 carbon atoms in one molecule. (6) A fatty acid salt having a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain having an average carbon number of 10 to 20. (7) An alkyl ethoxycarboxylic acid salt having a linear or branched alkyl group having an average carbon number of 10 to 20 and having an average of 0.5 to 8 moles of ethylene oxide added to each molecule. Alkyl or alkenyl succinic acid having an alkyl or alkenyl group having an average carbon number of 6 to 20 and partially neutralized salts thereof. (9) The following formula, [In the formula, A is

[Formula] or

[Formula] (where R ₁ is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, R ₂ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, m is a number from 0 to 6, and n is a number from 1 to 6. ), B represents -OX ₂ or A, and X ₁ and X ₂ each represent a hydrogen atom or a counter ion]. (10) The following formula, (In the formula, R ₃ represents an alkyl group or alkenyl group having 7 to 21 carbon atoms, and X ₃ , X ₄ and X ₅ each represent a hydrogen atom or a counter ion). (11) The following formula, (In the formula, R ₄ is an alkyl group or alkenyl group having 7 to 21 carbon atoms, R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ are amino acid side chains, n ₁ is a number of 1 to 6, and X ₆ is a hydrogen atom. or a counter ion) An acylated polypeptide surfactant represented by: The counter ions represented by X ₁ to _{X 6} of these anionic surfactants are usually sodium,
Alkali metal ions such as potassium; alkaline earth metal ions such as magnesium; ammonium ions; and alkanols having 1 to 3 alkanol groups having 2 to 3 carbon atoms, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, and triisopropylamine. Examples include amine bases. In addition, among the (B) components, the amphoteric surfactants include:
Examples include: (1) The following formula, (In the formula, R ₈ is an alkyl group or alkenyl group having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R ₉ and R ₁₀ are the same or different and represent an alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms.) (2) The following formula, (In the formula, R ₁₁ and R ₁₂ are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m ₁ is an integer of 1 to 3, and X ₁ is -COO or -
(represents SO ₃ group, R ₈ has the above meaning)
Alkylbetaine or sulfobetaine represented by (3) For example, the following expression [In the formula, R ₁₃ is a fatty acid group with an average carbon number of 10 to 20, and R ₁₄ is sodium, hydrogen or -
CH ₂ COOM ₂ , Z ₁ is −COOM ₂ , −
CH ₂ COOM ₂ or

An imidazoline type amphoteric surfactant represented by the formula: (where M ₂ represents sodium, hydrogen or an organic base), and X ₈ represents a hydroxyl group, an acid salt, or an anionic surfactant sulfate or sulfate. (4) The following formula, (In the formula, R ₁₅ is an alkyl or alkenyl group having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, R ₁₆ is a hydrogen atom, -C ₂ H ₄ OH or -C ₂ H ₄ OC ₂ H ₄ COOX ₉ , and R ₁₇ is -C _{2H2OH ,} −
C ₂ H ₄ OC ₂ H ₄ COOX ₉ or −C ₂ H ₄ COOX ₉ ,
R ₁₈ represents a hydrogen atom or -C ₂ H ₄ COOX ₉ , and X ₉
is a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, ammonium or organic ammonium) Amidoamine type amphoteric surfactant. Among the components (B) listed above, the anionic surfactants include polyoxyethylene and/or propylene alkyl sulfate (average number of added moles of 0.5 to 8), alkyl groups having an average number of carbon atoms of 8 to 20, and alkyl Amino acid surfactants with an average number of carbon atoms in the group from 8 to 20, acylated polypeptide surfactants with an average number of carbon atoms in the alkyl group from 8 to 20 and n from 1 to 6, and amphoteric surfactants. Particularly preferred are alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, and imidazoline type amphoteric surfactants having an average carbon number of 10 to 14. Examples of the cationic polymer compound which is the component (C) of the present invention include the following. (1) The following formula [In the formula, A ₁ is a residue of anhydroglucose unit, l ₁ is an integer from 50 to 20,000, and R' is a group represented by the following formula, L ₂ , L ₃ : Alkylene group having 2 or 3 carbon atoms L ₅ : Alkylene group or hydroxyalkylene group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ , R ₂₁ : Same or different number of carbon atoms
Up to 10 alkyl groups, aryl groups, aralkyl groups, or any two thereof may jointly form a heterocycle with adjacent nitrogen atoms X ₁₀ : chlorine, bromine, iodine, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acid,
Anion selected from methyl sulfate, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, etc. m ₂ : An integer from 0 to 10 n ₂ : An integer from 0 to 3 p ₂ : An integer from 0 to 10. Among these cationic cellulose derivatives, the degree of cation substitution, that is, the average value of _n2 per unit of anhydroglucose is 0.01 to 1, especially
A value of 0.02 to 0.5 is preferred. Moreover, it is preferable that the average of the sum of m ₂ and p ₂ is 1 to 3. The cationic cellulose used herein preferably has a molecular weight of between about 100,000 and 3,000,000. (2) The following formula, (In the formula, A″ represents a starch residue, L ₆ represents an alkylene group or a hydroxyalkylene group, and l ₂ represents a positive integer. R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ , R ₂₀ , and X ₁₀ have the meanings described above. ) A cationic starch represented by the following formula: The degree of cation substitution of this cationic starch, that is, the number of cation groups introduced per anhydroglucose unit is preferably 0.01 to 1, particularly 0.02 to 0.5. (3) The following formula , (R ₂₂ , R ₂₃ : Same or different, hydrogen atom,
Alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, phenyl group, aryl group, hydroxyalkyl group, amidoalkyl group, cyanoalkyl group, alkoxyalkyl group, carboalkoxyalkyl group R ₂₄ , R ₂₅ , R ₂₆ , R ₂₇ : Same or different Then,
hydrogen atom, lower alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms,
Phenyl group l ₃ : An integer of 150 to 8000 n ₃ : An integer of 1 to 50 m ₃ : An integer of 1 to 50 p ₃ : 0 or 1 X ₁₀ : A cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium represented by Salt/acrylamide copolymer. Among these diallyl quaternary ammonium salt/acrylamide copolymers, the molecular weight is approximately 30,000.
~2000000, particularly preferably 100000~1000000. (4) The following formula, (In the formula, R ₂₈ and R ₂₉ are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms,
R ₃₀ and R ₃₁ are the same or different hydrogen atoms,
An alkyl group or phenyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms,
A diallyl quaternary ammonium homopolymer represented by (Y indicates an anion residue, n indicates a number whose molecular weight is from 10,000 to 1 million). (5) The following formula, (R ₃₂ : hydrogen atom or alkyl group having 1 to 3 carbon atoms R ₃₃ , R ₃₄ , R ₃₅ : the same or different, hydrogen atom, alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl group, amidoalkyl group, cyano Alkyl group, alkoxyalkyl group, carboalkoxyalkyl group, Y: oxygen atom or NH group in amide bond X ₁₁ : chlorine, bromine, iodine, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acid,
A quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone derivative represented by an alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an anion such as sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, etc. m ₄ +n ₄ : an integer of 20 to 8000 p ₄ : an integer of 1 to 10). The quaternized polyvinylpyrrolidone derivative preferably has a molecular weight of 10,000 to 2,000,000, particularly 50,000 to 1,500,000. Further, the content of cationic nitrogen derived from the cationic polymer contained in the vinyl polymer is 0.004 to 0.2% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.15% by weight, based on the vinyl polymer.
If it is less than 0.004% by weight, it is not sufficiently effective, and if it is more than 0.2% by weight, it is good in terms of performance, but it is also undesirable because it causes discoloration of the vinyl polymer. (5) The following formula, (R ₃₆ : Straight chain or dispersed chain alkyl group having 6 to 20 carbon atoms L ₇ , L ₉ , L ₁₀ , L ₁₂ : Hydroxy alkyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms L ₈ , L ₁₁ : C 2 to 3 hydroxyalkyl group alkylene group l ₅ : an integer of 1 to 50 m ₅ : an integer of 2 to 4 n ₅ : an integer of 2 to 6 p 5 , _{q 5 :} an integer of 10 to 20). (6) Copolymer of adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (cartaretin: manufactured by Sandoz, USA). Among the components (C) listed above, cationized cellulose compounds are particularly preferred. The second agent composition of the present invention comprises the above-mentioned (A), (B) and (C).
It is manufactured by conventional methods except for blending the ingredients. As the oxidizing agent which is the base of the second agent of the present invention,
Any commonly used salts can be used, including alkali metal bromates such as sodium bromate and potassium bromate; hydrogen peroxide, sodium percarbonate, and sodium perborate; Acid alkali metal salts are preferred. The amount of this oxidizing agent varies depending on whether the second agent is diluted during use or dissolved in another solvent, but is generally 1 to 30% of the total composition of the second agent, especially 30% of the total composition of the second agent.
~20% is preferred. In addition, (A) which is blended in the second agent composition of the present invention
The amount of component (C) is 0.01 to 0.01 of component (A) relative to the total composition.
5%, especially 0.05-1%, component (B) 0.1-20%,
Particularly 1 to 10%, component (C) 0.01 to 5%, especially 0.05
~2% is preferable. In addition to the above-mentioned essential components, the second agent composition of the present invention may contain commonly used fragrances, an appropriate oil component in the case of an emulsion type, a clouding agent, an inorganic salt, etc. The pH of the 5% aqueous solution of the second agent composition thus obtained is adjusted to be 8 or less, preferably 3.5 to 6.5. The second composition of the present invention prepared as described above is
By using this for permanent wave processing, it is possible to form solid waves.
In addition, it is capable of imparting extremely excellent conditioning effects such as suppleness, softness, and ease of combing to the hair after rinsing off the second agent and drying the hair. . Furthermore, it is noteworthy that the present formulation system exhibits similar effects even when the components (A) and (C) are contained in trace amounts. Next, the present invention will be explained with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Example 1 A second part composition having the composition shown below was prepared, and the combing force and feel of the hair after permanent waving were examined. The results are shown in Table 2. 〔composition〕

[Comb force and sensory evaluation]

(i) A hair bundle with a length of 25 cm and a weight of 10 g is first immersed in the first agent below for 20 minutes at 30°C, then washed with running water for 1 minute, and then immersed in the second agent of the following composition for 10 minutes at 30°C. Then, a permanent wave treatment was performed by rinsing with running water for 30 seconds and air drying. (First agent formulation) Thioglycolic acid 7.0% Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil 1.0 Fragrance 0.2 Ammonia water, water balance (adjust pH to 9.0 with ammonia water) (ii) Hair strands that have undergone permanent wave treatment, Tensilon Tesdar [UTM manufactured by Toyo Sokki Co., Ltd.
The hair was combed with a comb fixed to the movable part of the hair bundle (type), and the force applied to the hair bundle at that time was measured and was taken as the combing force. (iii) The smoothness and softness of the hair treated in (i) after rinsing with the second agent and air drying was sensory evaluated by 20 female expert panelists. (Evaluation criteria) Rating Contents 4 Fairly good 3 2 Good 1 0 Fairly bad [Result]

【table】

[Table] Example 2 A sensory evaluation of the combing force was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 using the first agent having the following composition and the second agent shown in Table 3. The results are shown in Table 4. (First agent formulation) Cysteine 7.0% Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil 1.0 Fragrance 0.2 Ammonia water, water balance (pH adjusted to 9.0 with ammonia water)

【table】 〔result〕

【table】

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. In the permanent wave second agent composition, the following three components (A), (B) and (C), (A) general formula (), ROCH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OH ( ) (In the formula, R represents a methyl branched saturated hydrocarbon group having 12 to 24 carbon atoms) α-mono (methyl branched alkyl) represented by
A permanent wave second agent composition comprising: glyceryl ether (B) a surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants; and (C) a cationic polymer compound. 2. The α-mono(methyl branched alkyl)glyceryl ether of component (A) is a group in which R in the formula () is the following group (), (In the formula, m is an integer of 2 to 14, n is an integer of 3 to 11, and m+n is an integer of 9 to 21.) agent composition.