JPS6352127B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a jacket front interlining material that is inserted into the front part of a jacket in order to shape and maintain the body shape of the jacket. .

[Conventional technology]

Conventionally, the front part of clothing jackets has a bulge that matches the body shape of the human body to improve comfort and aesthetic appeal when wearing clothing, and to make clothing easier to move in response to human activities. In order to achieve these goals, interlining is inserted into the back side of the outer material of the clothes to form a bulge on the outer material of the clothes. As is well known.

By the way, among the interlining materials, there is a so-called "hair interlining material" which is a woven fabric using materials such as mohair, luster, cashmere, horse hair, human hair, etc. as weft threads that have the above-mentioned functions. Ta. In other words, the so-called "processed wool interlining", which is made by cutting the cloth made of this wool interlining into a size that can be inserted into the front part of the clothes, is sewn as an interlining to the back side of the outer material of the outer garment. was.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

However, when the above-mentioned processed wool interlining is used as an interlining, although roundness, fluffiness, softness, etc. can be produced in the folded portion of the collar, the following problems arise.

Clothes and jackets tend to wrinkle easily. Jackets tend to wrinkle when they are folded carelessly instead of being hung on hangers.

I tend to get tingly when putting stars in.

Processed wool interlining is made by weaving threads vertically and horizontally, so there are two cases in which the star needle will pierce directly through the threads of the wool interlining, and when it will pass through the gaps between the threads woven vertically and horizontally. There is a slight difference in the resistance force generated between the threads, and if the tension of the star-stitched thread is not changed in accordance with this subtle difference in resistance, it will easily become tingly. In order to prevent this tingling from occurring, a high level of skill is required when inserting stars.

Star inserting is the process of suturing inconspicuously along the front edge of the front body of a jacket in order to prevent swelling from occurring on the front edge surface of the front body.
Piri also refers to the unevenness that appears on the surface of clothes.

The entire clothing jacket does not become lighter.

Especially on humid, rainy days or during the rainy season, processed wool interlining absorbs moisture and becomes heavy. This is especially a problem for summer clothes, which require lightness. In this case, it is possible to reduce the weight to some extent by reducing the thickness of the processed wool interlining, but a thin processed wool interlining will feel fluttery and lose its shape, and will not function as an interlining. It is virtually impossible to reduce the thickness of the processed wool interlining, and it is difficult to reduce the weight.

The present invention was devised in view of the above-mentioned problems and to eliminate the problems.The purpose of the present invention is to make clothes less likely to wrinkle, and to make it easier to put stars on them. It is difficult to become
In addition to making the overall jacket lighter, the folded part of the collar continues to have roundness, fluffiness, and softness, and in addition, the difference in level at the joint between the nonwoven interlining and woolen interlining is minimized to make the jacket lighter. To provide an interlining material for the front body of a jacket which can prevent the appearance of steps on the surface.

[Means for solving problems]

In order to achieve the above objects, the present invention provides an interlining to be inserted into the front body of a jacket, which is made by adhering and polymerizing a thin woven interlining to a non-woven interlining, and bonding the interlining to the non-woven interlining. The wool interlining is arranged in an area including the folded part from the collar part, and the joining of the nonwoven interlining and the wool interlining is performed by connecting the joining tip of the nonwoven interlining in the thickness direction. It has a structure in which it is divided into two parts, and the joining tip of the hair interlining is inserted into the two parts and polymerized.

Here, a nonwoven fabric is one in which the fibers are made into a cloth without being made into threads or by a method such as knitting or weaving.

[Effect]

The present invention having the above configuration operates as follows.

In other words, the interlining is composed of a non-woven interlining and a thin woven adhesive interlining that is adhesively polymerized to achieve the excellent properties of a non-woven interlining, i.e., it is resistant to wrinkles and has threads woven vertically and horizontally. Since the material is almost uniform, the resistance force of the star insertion needle is almost the same regardless of the position, so it does not get stiff when inserting the star, and works to fully demonstrate its excellent characteristics such as being light. Moreover, the disadvantages of non-woven interlining are:
The disadvantage of not returning to its original state after stretching can be compensated for by using a thin woven adhesive interlining.Furthermore, by using wool interlining, the folded part of the collar becomes rounded and fluffy. It acts to give softness, softness, etc.
The difference in level at the joint between the nonwoven fabric interlining and the woolen interlining is made as small as possible to prevent the level difference from appearing on the surface of the jacket.

〔Example〕

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically based on embodiments shown in the drawings.

Here, Figure 1 is a front view of the men's jacket, Figure 2 is a front view of the front interlining, Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view of Figure 2, and Figure 4 is the front interlining of the men's jacket. FIG. 2 is a partially omitted schematic cross-sectional view when attached.

Reference numeral 11 denotes a men's jacket as a piece of clothing, for example, and a front body interlining 13 is inserted into a front body 12 of the men's jacket 11.

By the way, men's clothing jacket 11 does not express the three-dimensional silhouette of the upper body as it is, but rather has a silhouette that feels like it is worn over the shoulders, giving a masculine and firm feel to the whole body. It can be said that the overall structure of the garment has changed, and the only point of contact between the upper body and the jacket is supported by the shoulders. Therefore, the front body interlining 13 required for the men's jacket 11 is required to have appropriate tension and not easily lose its shape. Furthermore, the front body interlining 13 used for summer jackets is required to be light in addition to these requirements.

The front body interlining 13 includes a non-woven interlining 13a, an ultra-thin adhesive interlining 13b made of woven fabric, and a wool interlining 13c bonded to the non-woven interlining 13a.
It is composed of. The wool interlining 13c is the collar part 1
4 to a region including the folded portion 15. The wool interlining 13c is also adhesively polymerized with the adhesive interlining 13b. The thickness of the front interlining 13 is 1 mm.
degree is preferred. Further, the thickness of the adhesive interlining 13b is preferably as thin as possible.

Joint portion 16 between nonwoven fabric interlining 13a and wool interlining 13c
is formed at a location slightly away from the folded portion 15 so as to be substantially parallel to the folded line of the folded portion 15. A non-woven interlining 13 is provided at the joint 16.
The joint tip portion of a is divided into two in the thickness direction, and the joint tip of the hair interlining 13c is inserted into the two halves. That is, both sides of the joined tip of the inserted woolen interlining 13c are joined by overlapping at the joining tip of the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a, which is divided into two in the thickness direction.
By joining in such a state, it is possible to suppress the difference in level at the joining part 16 as small as possible, and it is possible to reliably maintain the joining between the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a and the hair interlining 13c.

The nonwoven fabric interlining 13a is made of nonwoven fabric. Non-woven fabric is made from fibers that are made into cloth without being made into threads or by knitting or weaving. The fibers used include cotton, rayon, acetate, nylon, and polyester, either singly or in combination depending on the purpose. There are two manufacturing methods, dry and wet, depending on how the fibers are arranged.

In the dry method, the web is created by passing it through an opening machine or a cotton blending machine for spinning, then a combing machine or a garnet machine (a machine used for curling wool), and then stacking the webs in parallel or crosswise fashion. Alternatively, using an irregularly arranged web obtained by a method such as Rando-Webber using air flow, it is dipped in an adhesive liquid while being fed through a guide screen.
Alternatively, a common method is to spray, squeeze with a mangle, dry and heat treat. Adhesives are often made of natural or rigid latex, or a combination of this with urea or melamine resin, and among synthetic latexes, acrylonitro-butadiene-based and acrylonitri-based ones are superior. There is also a method of coagulating with acid using viscose liquid. Another method is to create a web made of a blend of softening fibers and heat-fuse it.

The wet method is a papermaking method in which short fibers of 5 mm or less are mainly used, and are dispersed in an aqueous solution of sodium acrylate, carboxymethyl cellulose, or mallow, dried, and then immersed in an adhesive solution such as synthetic latex. , a method of drying or heating, or a method of mixing and welding water-swellable fibers (for example, non-formalized polyvinyl alcohol fibers) or heat-softening fibers in advance.

The non-woven fabric interlining 13a has various characteristics unlike conventional processed wool interlining made of woven fabric.

For example, the weight is about one-fifth that of a woven interlining, which is extremely light. It also has the property of springing back when folded, which is highly effective in preventing it from losing its shape. Furthermore, it has excellent features such as wrinkle resistance, excellent breathability, and high heat retention. Furthermore, since the components of the material are approximately uniformly distributed, the resistance force upon insertion of the needle is approximately the same regardless of position.

On the other hand, its strength properties such as tensile strength, tear strength, and abrasion resistance are inferior to those of processed wool interlining made of conventional woven fabrics, and in particular, when it is strongly pulled, it remains stretched and loses its original state. The disadvantage is that it cannot be returned to. Due to this drawback, when nonwoven fabric is used alone as the material for the front interlining, the nonwoven interlining 13a remains stretched and cannot return to its original state, which causes unevenness on the outer material 11a of the men's jacket 11. As a result, there is an inconvenience that the appearance of the men's jacket 11 is spoiled. Further, due to wear and the like, some fine fibers are formed on the surface of the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a as downy hair, and this downy hair comes out on the surface of the outer material of the men's clothing jacket 11.

Furthermore, the characteristic of springing back when folded as described in the above advantages is highly effective in preventing deformation; The characteristic of bouncing back is a drawback. In other words, collar part 1
This means that the folded portion 15 of No. 4 cannot have roundness, fluffiness, softness, etc. In order to compensate for this drawback, the folded portion 15 is provided with a wool interlining 13c.

As described above, the adhesive interlining 13b is made of an extremely thin woven material, for example, a blend of polyester and cotton. The polyester and cotton blend interlining is not only durable but also has excellent dimensional stability and wash and wear properties. In addition, adhesive interlining 13
The strength properties such as tensile strength, tear strength, and abrasion resistance of b are superior to the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a. This characteristic makes it possible to restrain the elongation of the nonwoven interlining 13a, thereby compensating for the drawback of the nonwoven interlining 13a that it cannot return to its original state after being elongated.

When the front body interlining 13 is inserted into the men's wear jacket 11, the adhesive interlining 13b is attached to the outer material 1 of the men's wear jacket 11.
It is attached so that it is in contact with 1a. This is because of the adhesive interlining 13b, the non-woven interlining 13a
Prevents the formation of downy hair on the surface of the non-woven interlining 13
This is to prevent downy hair from appearing on the outer material 11a. Generally, the color of the front body interlining 13 needs to be changed to match the color of the outer material 11a, but by simply changing the color of the adhesive interlining 13b to match the color of the outer material 11a, the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a and the wool interlining 13c can be changed. This has the advantage of making it unnecessary to change the color of the image.

The woolen interlining 13c uses a fine-count yarn for the warp yarn, and a thick-count yarn made of long fibers with a thick fineness for the weft yarn, giving it tension in the weft direction, while being soft and flexible in the warp direction. It's becoming like that.
For natural fibers, thick and long fibers used to depend on animal hair such as horsehair, but now it is possible to obtain thick and long fibers artificially, so thick denier fibers such as rayon can be used instead of animal hair. It is used. The structure is generally plain weave, and for applications that require particular flexibility, satin weave may also be used.

Due to such softness characteristics, wool interlining 13c
The folded portion 15 can give roundness, fluffiness, softness, etc.

Adhesive is applied to the entire surface of one side of the adhesive interlining 13b. Examples of adhesive attachment methods include coating and laminating. In coating, an adhesive is applied to the core surface in a paste-like manner using water or a solvent as a medium. With laminate, a film of adhesive can be attached to the core surface. Then, the adhesive interlining 13b is bonded to the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a and the wool interlining 13c using an adhesive.
is surface-adhesively polymerized. Through this surface adhesion polymerization, the non-woven fabric interlining 13a, the hair interlining 13c, and the adhesive interlining 13b are integrated, and the integrated adhesive interlining 13b eliminates the drawbacks of the non-woven fabric interlining 13a, that is, it remains stretched. The property that it cannot return to its original state and the occurrence of downy hair are prevented.

For example, an adhesive press machine or a simple adhesive machine is used to adhere the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a and the adhesive interlining 13b. Adhesive press machines include temperature control type, pressure control type, press time control type, dry and wet heat bonding type, etc. Simple adhesive machines include small adhesive machines such as irons.

When the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a and the adhesive interlining 13b are bonded using an iron, the following method is used.

First, the nonwoven interlining 13a and the adhesive interlining 13b are cut to the size of the front body interlining 13, and then the similarly cut adhesive interlining 13b is superimposed on the cut nonwoven interlining 13a to form the adhesive interlining 13b. Pressure is applied from above with an iron heated to a certain temperature, and this pressure causes surface adhesion polymerization between the two. In this case, if you apply the iron directly, the adhesive may seep out to the bottom of the iron, making it less slippery. At this time, for example, spray a little mist on Hatron paper and place the paper on the adhesive interlining.
Place it on top of 3b and press the iron firmly from above. To make it adhere well, use a slightly higher temperature, press down a little, and when moving the iron, shift it by half without sliding.
Pour until the water evaporates. At this time, the adhesive interlining 13b is attached to the wool interlining 1 to be bonded to the nonwoven interlining 13a.
Attach both 3c.

On the other hand, in order to join the non-woven fabric interlining 13a and the woolen interlining 13c, the joining end portion of the non-woven fabric interlining 13a is cut open in the thickness direction, and the woolen interlining 13c is inserted into two halves.
Insert the joint tip c and press it from above and below to polymerize. The nonwoven fabric interlining 13a and the woolen interlining 13c can be bonded at any time before or after bonding the adhesive interlining 13b to the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a.

Front body interlining 13 made as above
is stitched to the back side of the outer material 11a of the men's clothing jacket 11 after being subjected to dart processing. In this case, as described above, the adhesive interlining 13b side is attached so as to be in contact with the outer material 11a. In addition, the color of the adhesive interlining 13b is
Use the same color as the outer material 11a. In addition, if necessary, the front body interlining 13 and the lining 11b
A felt 17 may be inserted between the two.

In the above embodiment, the adhesive interlining 13b is bonded and polymerized on one side of the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a and the woolen interlining 13c, but the adhesive interlining 13b is bonded to both sides of the nonwoven fabric interlining 13a and the woolen interlining 13c. It can also be polymerized. In this case, the nonwoven interlining 13
This makes it possible to strengthen the bond between the wool interlining material 13c and the wool interlining material 13c, and to more reliably suppress the defects of the nonwoven fabric interlining material 13a. Also, if necessary,
Adhesion and polymerization of the wool interlining 13c and adhesive interlining 13b may be omitted.

〔Effect of the invention〕

As is clear from the above description, according to the front body interlining of the jacket according to the present invention, since the adhesive interlining of a thin woven fabric is adhesively polymerized to the nonwoven interlining, the jacket does not wrinkle easily and the appearance deteriorates. can be suppressed as much as possible, and moreover, it is difficult to cause irritation when inserting stars, and advanced star inserting techniques are not required. Furthermore, the overall weight of the clothing jacket can be reduced, making it possible to improve comfort when wearing the clothing. In particular, it can be used as an optimal interlining for summer clothes that require lightness.

In addition, since the wool interlining is arranged in the region including the folded part from the collar, the folded part of the collar can continue to have roundness, fluffiness, softness, etc. that cannot be achieved with the above-mentioned nonwoven interlining. In addition, in order to bond the non-woven interlining and wool interlining, the joining tip of the non-woven fabric interlining was divided into two in the wall thickness direction, and the joining tip of the wool interlining was inserted into the bisected interior for polymerization. It is possible to suppress the difference in level as much as possible, prevent the appearance of the difference in level on the surface of the jacket, and the appearance of the jacket is not spoiled, so that extremely novel and beneficial effects can be achieved.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

The drawings show an embodiment of the interlining material for the front body of a jacket according to the present invention, in which FIG. 1 is a front view of the men's jacket, FIG. 2 is a front view of the interlining material for the front body, and FIG. 3 is a front view of the interlining material for the front body.
FIG. 4 is a partially omitted schematic cross-sectional view of the front body interlining attached to a men's jacket. [Explanation of symbols] 11: Men's clothing jacket, 11a: Outer material, 11b: Lining, 12: Front body, 13: Front body interlining, 13a: Nonwoven interlining, 13b: Adhesive interlining,
13c: wool interlining, 14: collar, 15: folded part, 16: joint, 17: felt.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. The interlining to be inserted into the front part of the jacket is a non-woven interlining made by adhesively polymerizing a thin woven interlining, and a wool interlining to be bonded to the non-woven interlining. The above-mentioned wool interlining is arranged in the area including the folded part from the collar part, and the joining of the non-woven interlining and the wool interlining is performed by dividing the joint tip of the non-woven interlining into two in the thickness direction, and An interlining material for the front body of a jacket, characterized in that the joining tip of a hair interlining material is inserted into the inside of the material and polymerized. 2. The front body interlining of a jacket according to claim 1, wherein an adhesive interlining is adhesively polymerized on one side of the nonwoven interlining and the wool interlining. 3. The front body interlining of a jacket according to claim 1, wherein adhesive interlining is adhesively polymerized on both sides of the nonwoven interlining and the wool interlining.