JPS6352148B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for texturing a fabric made of polyester fibers, and more specifically, by using a special combination of chemicals in the texturing liquid medium and changing the texturing shrinkage in the vertical and horizontal directions of the fabric, high texturing can be achieved. The aim is to obtain a uniform grain with good quality. Conventionally, grained fabrics made of polyester fibers are produced by twisting polyester fiber bundles at a rate of about 1000 to 3000 T/M or by subjecting them to a temporary twisting process to create distorted yarns, then knitting and weaving them using a rotary washer or continuous process. It is obtained by applying a mechanical shock kneading action in hot water using a texturing device such as a relaxer to untwist and develop the text. How to fully and uniformly develop untwisting largely determines the quality of the grain. However, it is well known that polyester fibers are less prone to wrinkles than silk, nylon, and the like that have been conventionally used for this purpose. In order to improve this drawback, not only detergents such as soda carbonate, alkyl sulfates, and alkylbenzene sulfonates, but also a fiber swelling agent for polyester called a carrier is added to the graining bath to promote graining properties. How or 100
Attempts have been made to create texture under high pressure at temperatures above ℃ and under conditions that cause large thermal contraction. The grain raising method using a carrier is certainly more effective in promoting the untwisting torque restoring force than the cleaning agent alone, but the height and density of the grain is one step further, and the uniformity of the grain is particularly insufficient. On the other hand, with the development of a high-pressure rotary washer, the high-pressure graining method has the advantage of being able to greatly reduce the heat shrinkage of fabrics and efficiently handle large amounts of fabric, but the graining properties are not sufficient and, for example, it is difficult to achieve high grain quality. Highly twisted chili men and deshin, which require high twisting, have not been fully commercialized. In addition, while using these grain raising aids and heat shrinkage, the grain raising shrinkage obtained with grain raising equipment such as rotary washers and continuous relaxers is almost always such that the shrinkage in the vertical direction of the fabric is smaller than the shrinkage in the horizontal direction. , (W _S < C _S ) There are drawbacks such as strands of weft threads called "horns" protruding from between the fabric's structures, significantly reducing the grain quality, and both have high grain resistance. In reality, it is extremely difficult to obtain an elegant, high-quality grained fabric. In view of this problem, the inventors of the present invention have made extensive studies on methods for processing the texture of fabrics, and have found that they can significantly improve the texture and control the warp/horizontal shrinkage rate of the fabric by using a special texture bath. The present invention was based on the discovery that, for the first time, a combination of these two materials provides an effect of having both a high degree of graininess and a high quality grain quality. That is, the present invention provides a polyester fiber fabric in an aqueous medium containing at least one of an aromatic polyester fiber swelling agent, a polyoxyethylene alkyl ether surfactant, and a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester surfactant. When performing the graining process, caustic alkali is coexisted and the rubbing impact force applied to the fabric is controlled using a rotary washer graining device so that the shrinkage rate in the vertical direction of the fabric is higher than the shrinkage rate in the horizontal direction. This is a method for raising the grain of a polyester fiber fabric, which is characterized by processing the cloth so that the grain size increases. The present invention will be explained in detail below. The polyester fiber fabric referred to in the present invention includes not only 100% knitted fabrics such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, but also polyester and modified polyester, polystyrene, polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, polyolefin, etc.
It is a knitted fabric made of a composite yarn of polyethylene, polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride, etc., and there are no restrictions on the method of compounding the composite yarn, but preferably polyethylene terephthalate is used.
% or more of 1,500 to 3,000 T/M of strongly twisted yarn or temporary twisted yarn. Aromatic fiber swelling agents for polyester include aromatic esters, aromatic ethers, chlorobenzene, phenol, phenyl, and derivatives thereof, and these may be used alone or in combination with other organic solvents. It is also within the scope of the present invention to use a mixture of these, preferably emulsified and dispersed in a bath, and used in a range of 5 to 20% (OWF). In addition, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether and polyoxyethylene alkyl ester surfactants are not particularly limited in terms of the number of carbon atoms in the alkyl group in the formula, the number of moles of ethylene oxide added, the ionicity, etc. Ethers containing phenyl groups or derivatives thereof, or esterified products may be used, and the use of these alone or in combination with other organic solvents or fiber swelling agents is also included in the present invention. However, it is preferable that the alkyl group has 7 to 15 carbon atoms and the number of moles of ethylene oxide added is about 1 to 5, so that it is emulsified and dispersed in the bath.
It is best to use within the range of % (owf). In particular, it is noted that the smaller the number of moles of ethylene oxide added, the better the graininess becomes. Caustic alkali refers to caustic soda and caustic potash alone or as a mixture. Table 1 shows an example illustrating the relationship between the concentration of caustic soda used and graininess.

【table】

[Table] To achieve the object of the present invention, it is preferable to use caustic soda and caustic potash in a range of 0.3 to 50.0% by weight in terms of pure content. Caustic alkali usage concentration is 0.3
If it is less than % by weight, the graining effect will be insufficient;
If it exceeds 50.0% by weight, significant hydrolysis of the polyester fibers will be promoted, the viscosity of the liquid will increase, and the graininess will also decrease. It is practical to use a 0.5 to 1.5% by weight aqueous solution in terms of damage to polyester fibers, grain raising effect, wrinkle prevention, etc. Caustic alkali has a unique smoothness in the graining bath, weakens the tissue binding force of the fabric and makes the fabric soft, and more preferably, it removes the glue and oil that adhere to the graining fabric. can be removed efficiently, improving the quality of the fabric,
It is thought that this will work extremely effectively in improving quality. However, when caustic alkali alone is used, the texture is insufficient. As mentioned above, in the present invention,
By using a combination of grain raising aids, better effects can be obtained that could not be imagined from the results of using individual aids. This suggests that the effect of caustic alkali is completely different from that of other auxiliaries. However, whatever the reason for the synergistic effect, the most certain and important thing is that aromatic polyester fiber swelling agents, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether surfactants, and polyoxyethylene alkyl ester surfactants It is a fact that the coexistence of at least one of these and a caustic alkali dramatically improves the graininess. Next, the vertical shrinkage of the fabric; W _S and horizontal shrinkage;
_CS is defined as shown below. W _S (%) = W ₀ - W ₁ / W ₀ × 100 C _S (%) = C ₀ - C ₁ / C ₀ × 100 Here, W _S is the shrinkage rate of the fabric in the warp direction when creating the grain. Point, W ₀ : Length (cm) of the fabric in this direction before embossing, W ₁ : Length (cm) of the cloth in this direction immediately after embossing. C _S : Refers to the shrinkage rate of the fabric in the weft direction during graining, C ₀ : Length (cm) of the fabric in this direction before graining, C ₁ : The length (cm) of the fabric in this direction immediately after graining Each represents the length (cm). If the grain-setting bath of the present invention is used, there are no particular limitations on the processing method or method as long as W _S ≧ C _S at the time of grain setting. By appropriately controlling the kneading impact force applied to the fabric, the balance of shrinkage during graining can be changed. Table 2 shows an example in which the kneading impact force is made to correspond to the rotational speed of the rotary washer.

【table】

[Table] As described above, the graining treatment method in which W _S ≧ C _S is effective in preventing the occurrence of "horns" and improving the grain quality. When the grain setting contraction is C _S > W _S , the untwisting of the weft yarns precedes the untwisting of the warp yarns before they can be bent sufficiently, resulting in “horns” that are twisted pools of weft yarns occurring between the fabric structures. cause unsatisfactory results. Even if W _S is extremely larger than C _S , there is a drawback that the graininess deteriorates, so in order to achieve the object of the present invention, it is most preferable to control the W _S /C _S ratio within the range of 1.1 to 1.6. It is better to do so. Type of treated fabric, yarn composition,
It may be adjusted as appropriate depending on the organization, form, etc., and is not limited to this. In addition to the above-mentioned rotation conditions of the rotary washer, the specific method for achieving W _S ≧ C _S can also be achieved by adjusting the preparation form of the treated fabric, the treatment weight, the rubbing mechanism of the grain raising device, etc. can. The effect of the present invention is that the above-mentioned grain forming composition bath significantly increases the grain raising property and also reduces the grain raising shrinkage.
This can only be obtained by setting W _S ≧ C _S ,
You can't get one without the other. Next, to explain this with drawings, Figure 1 shows the graininess (graining index) and graining shrinkage balance (W _S /C _S
This is an example of explaining the quality of the grain in terms of its relationship with the ratio. That is, in the present invention, by first using the texturing composition bath of the method of the present invention, it is possible to improve the texturing property from the range of conventional method -1 to the range of -1. Furthermore, the present invention satisfies both the graininess and grain quality by setting the vertical and horizontal shrinkage ratios and W _S /C _S at the time of graining to 1 or more, thereby converting from -1 to -2. The effect of this can be obtained. By the way, with the traditional wrinkle bath, W _S /
Even if the C _S ratio is set to 1 or more, the conversion can only be made to the -2 region, and a satisfactory result cannot be obtained. As can be seen from the above explanation, the present invention provides fabric with grain height and grain uniformity that could not be obtained with conventional grain processing, and eliminates "horns" and wrinkles.
A high-quality, elegant, high-grade, and high-quality grained fabric can be obtained without using glue or oil. In addition, even if the wrinkle shrinkage rate is controlled to W _S ≥ C _S with the specified combination of chemicals, there will be no adverse effect on bath decomposition, swelling action, desizing properties, fabric dyeing properties, etc., and the process will be smooth. Needless to say, it is possible to efficiently process grains. Next, examples of the present invention will be shown, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Example 1 A single polyethylene terephthalate yarn with 50 denier and 72 filaments was used for the warp yarn and a 50 denier and 72 filament double yarn was used for the weft yarn.
M, 2800T/M twist to weft yarn, 3.8% polyacrylic/polyvinyl alcohol mixed sizing agent
It was attached, twisted and set at 85°C, and woven into a chilimen fabric. Next, cut the fabric using a rotary washer.
After raising the temperature at 27 times the flow rate for 40 minutes and raising the grain at 98°C for 15 minutes, the material was dehydrated and air-dried to obtain the results shown in Table 3. The composition of the texturing bath used here is polyester fiber whose main component is methylnaphthalene, an aromatic fiber swelling agent.
The present invention method uses 20% DS (manufactured by Tatsuyo Kako Co., Ltd.) (OWF) and 1.0% by weight of caustic soda (100% pure), and processes the washer at an actual working speed of 13 (rpm).
Comparative example (1) at 22 (rpm), soda carbonate (pure content)
100%) was used alone at 0.2% by weight, and the rotation speed was increased to 22 (rp
Comparative example (2) treated with m) and the rotation speed was 13 (rpm)
Comparative Example (3), which was treated with

[Table] In contrast, in all of the comparative examples, the graining properties were poor and the desizing properties were insufficient, and uneven grains and wrinkles appeared on the entire surface of the fabric, resulting in a rejected fabric. The grain index is about the same as that of the conventional method.
It has excellent graining properties of 6.4 times, and the shrinkage ratio in the vertical direction (W _S / C _S ) is 1.69.
There was no occurrence of "horns" at all. In addition, it has good desizing properties, has a soft texture, and handles the fabric after graining.
It was easy to work, and there were no defects such as uneven grain or wrinkles, and a high-grade chilimen fabric with an elegant and uniform grain was obtained. Example 2 Adding 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid to sea ingredients
3.9 mole copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate: 15% by weight, island component and polyethylene terephthalate: 85% by weight are mixed and melt-spun, and the sea-island type fiber before the sea component is removed is made into a warp yarn: 63 denier, 24 filaments, 3 Shimamoto yarns, weft yarn: 95 denier, 18 filament, 6 Shimamoto yarns, warp yarn twisted at 300T/M, weft yarn twisted at 2700T/M, and polyacrylic/polyvinyl alcohol mixed sizing agent applied at 4.5%. %, set at 85℃ with twisting,
Woven into dechinne crepe fabric. Next, before removing the sea component, the fabric was embossed using a rotary washer with a liquid volume 30 times that of the fabric at an elevated temperature of 30 minutes at 98°C for 15 minutes, followed by dehydration and air drying to obtain the results shown in Table 5. The composition of the graining bath used here was 10% (owf) of IP carrier T-40 (manufactured by Ipposha Co., Ltd.), which mainly contains chlorobenzene, an aromatic fiber swelling agent, and caustic soda (owf). Comparative example (4) where 0.2% by weight of soda carbonate (100% pure) was used alone, and the method of the present invention in which 1.0% by weight of 1.0% by weight (100% pure) was used and the washer rotation speed was set to 16 rpm. 10% aromatic fiber swelling agent (OWF)
Comparative example (5) used alone, the caustic soda 1.0% by weight
Table 4 shows Comparative Example (6) in which each was used alone. Note that the evaluation method after graining is in accordance with Example 1.

[Table] In contrast to the comparative examples, which had poor graining properties, were unsatisfactory in grain quality and de-sizing properties, and had uneven grains and wrinkles appearing on the entire surface of the fabric, resulting in rejected fabrics, the fabrics of the present invention In this case, the graining index is about 3 to 8 times that of the comparative example, and the graining property is excellent, and the graining shrinkage ratio (W _S / C _S ) is 1.23, which means that the shrinkage rate in the vertical direction is large, making it a “horn ” was not found to occur at all. Furthermore, it has good desizing properties and texture, and is easy to handle and work with after graining, and there is no visible grain unevenness, wrinkles, dyeing unevenness, etc., and it is a high quality, high quality product with an elegant and luxurious grain. A quality de Chine crepe fabric was obtained.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the relationship between graininess (graining index) and graining shrinkage balance (W _S /C _S ratio).

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Texturing a polyester fiber fabric in an aqueous medium containing at least one of an aromatic polyester fiber swelling agent, a polyoxyethylene alkyl ether surfactant, and a polyoxyethylene alkyl ester surfactant. At this time, a caustic alkali is coexisted and the rubbing impact force applied to the fabric is controlled using a rotary washer graining device so that the shrinkage rate of the fabric in the vertical direction is larger than the shrinkage rate in the horizontal direction. A method for raising the grain of polyester fiber fabric, which is characterized by subjecting it to a treatment.