JPS64517B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a fabric having a special pattern with a rich surface variation due to a bulge pattern with a remarkable three-dimensional effect and a lace-like openwork pattern, and a method for producing the same.

BACKGROUND ART Conventionally, woven fabrics having a bulge pattern have generally been made of shibori fabrics with a double weave structure, as exemplified by kojiori.

That is, non-twisted yarn is used for the front side structure of the double weave structure, and highly twisted yarn is used for the back side structure, and the front side structure and the back side structure are tied together as appropriate for weaving, and then dyed and finished. As a result, a dyed pattern is produced, and at the same time, the highly twisted yarns in the back side tissue are contracted to produce a bulging pattern on the front side tissue.

However, with this method, only a heavy texture can be obtained due to the highly twisted yarn forming the back side structure, and the fabric weight is heavy due to the double weave structure, making it unusable for thin fabrics. Originally, the above-mentioned highly twisted yarn was unnecessary after the bulging pattern was formed.

In addition, as a fabric with this kind of bulging pattern,
There is a method that uses highly twisted yarn as another weft yarn and weaves it into the ground structure of a single layer weave structure to have an effect very similar to that of a double weave structure, but the skipping yarns on the back side of the fabric can be used for subsequent processing. This is undesirable since it causes considerable trouble during the process and during wearing.

On the other hand, in order to obtain a lace-like openwork pattern, after mixing and weaving water-insoluble fibers (e.g., polyester fibers) and water-soluble fibers (e.g., water-soluble vinylon),
There was a method in which the water-soluble fibers in the mixed woven fabric were dissolved and removed in a scouring process, etc., leaving only the water-insoluble fibers to form a lace-like openwork pattern. Fibers (insoluble in water) adjacent to the dissolved fibers tend to move (so-called misalignment occurs), and a clear lace-like openwork pattern cannot be obtained.

As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks, the present inventors found that two
We have discovered that by using polyester fiber yarns of different types and arranging floating weave structures appropriately, it is possible to create a fabric with an unprecedented bulge pattern and a clear lace-like openwork pattern, and have arrived at the present invention.

That is, the present invention provides a woven fabric consisting of an openwork pattern and a non-openwork pattern formed by dissolving and removing threads, the non-openwork pattern having a larger apparent weave density than the openwork pattern, In addition, the woven fabric with a special pattern is characterized in that it forms a bulging pattern, and the threads forming the openwork pattern part and the non-openwork pattern part are both made of polyester fibers.

For example, when manufacturing such a woven fabric using polyester fiber yarns having two or more different alkali decomposition rates, such as a yarn with a higher shrinkage rate having a higher alkali decomposition rate, A handle part in which two or more consecutive thread tissue points of larger size are floated (floating handle part)
and a non-floating pattern part in which the number of thread tissue points where the alkali decomposition rate is higher than that of the floating pattern part are appropriately arranged and woven, and the woven fabric is subjected to shrinkage treatment and heat setting treatment, and then can be obtained by dissolving and removing threads with a high alkali decomposition rate through alkali treatment.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

In the present invention, the non-openwork pattern portion forms a bulge pattern, and the bulge pattern is one in which the fabric surface is raised to reveal a pattern, and the entire bulge pattern portion is uniformly raised. This also includes those in which the surface of the floating pattern portion forms irregularities and closely resembles the surface form of a grained fabric. This bulging pattern is caused by the shrinkage of yarn with a high heat shrinkage rate, or by the fact that the yarn with a high heat shrinkage rate has a large torque as well as its contraction force, and the fabric becomes a bulge pattern. The surface has unevenness with a remarkable three-dimensional effect.

In addition, the openwork pattern according to the present invention is a lace-like openwork pattern in which soluble fibers and non-dissolved fibers are mixed and woven, and then the soluble fibers are dissolved and removed, leaving only the non-soluble fibers. It is.

The woven fabric having a special pattern of the present invention has such a bulge pattern and an openwork pattern arranged as appropriate, and the bulge pattern part takes advantage of the good thermoplasticity of the polyester fibers constituting it, and , a stable bulging pattern is formed due to the presence of an open pattern made of polyester fibers.

In addition, since the bulge pattern is formed by the contraction of soluble fibers and the swelling of non-soluble fibers, the local weave density focusing on the bulge pattern itself (in the present invention, the local weave density is The warp yarns arranged per unit length of the local area as a weave density,
Alternatively, the number of weft yarns (referred to as apparent weave density) is larger than the openwork pattern, and contributes to the pattern effect on the surface of the fabric of the present invention.

Such fabrics of the present invention are produced using polyester fiber yarns having two or more different alkaline decomposition rates. Among these two or more types of polyester fibers having different alkali decomposition rates, it is necessary that the one with the higher decomposition rate has a higher heat shrinkage rate.

There are various methods to obtain polyester fibers with such a high heat shrinkage rate. For example, in the filament manufacturing stage, heat setting after drawing is not performed or the heat setting temperature is lowered, and in the filament processing stage, In some cases, the highly twisted yarn is given a strong twist, and the shrinkage and torque development of the highly twisted yarn in hot water is utilized.The other method is that a high tension is given to the yarn and the residual strain of the fibers that make up the yarn is utilized. There are some that use a false twisting process on the yarn and utilize the shrinkage that occurs when crimp occurs.
In addition, in order to impart a textured texture to the bulge pattern, it is desirable to use highly twisted yarns, and the number of twists can range from 5 to 300. Next, a polyester fiber with a high alkali decomposition rate can be obtained by making a modified polyester fiber by blending an additive with a polyester polymer. For example, the additives may include polyethylene glycol, sodium alkylsulfonate, or a blend of these two, and the mixing ratio of the additives may be about 2 to 15% by weight.

Generally, the preferred alkali weight loss rate for use is 25 to 30.
% is the upper limit, so if normal polyester fiber is used as the polyester fiber with a lower alkali decomposition rate, the other polyester fiber with a higher alkali decomposition rate will be completely dissolved when its weight loss rate is 25%. It is preferable. That is, it is preferable that the decomposition rate of polyester fibers with a high alkali decomposition rate is at least four times higher than that of ordinary polyester fibers.

A product having such an alkaline decomposition rate can be obtained by using a mixture of polyethylene glycol and alkyl sulfonic acid as an additive.

When weaving using such polyester fiber threads having two or more different alkali decomposition rates, a floating pattern part in which two or more tissue points of the polyester fiber threads having a high alkali decomposition rate are successively floated. and a non-floating pattern part having more tissue points than the floating pattern part are appropriately arranged and woven.

Hereinafter, the fabric structure of the present invention will be explained with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a plan view of a fabric showing one embodiment of the present invention. In FIG. 1, 1 indicates a bulge pattern, 2 indicates an open pattern, and 3 indicates a high alkali decomposition rate used for the weft. The figure shows the watermark part after the yarn has been dissolved and removed. In this example, polyester fiber yarn with a high alkali decomposition rate was used only for the weft. FIG. 2 shows a tissue diagram of the fabric shown in FIG. In Figure 2, ○ mark 4 indicates a floating yarn in which polyester fiber yarns with a high alkali decomposition rate are not organized and are floating, and × mark 6 indicates a floating yarn in which ordinary polyester fiber yarns used as weft yarns are woven into a plain weave structure. to indicate that the weft is below the warp.

Mark 5 indicates that polyester fiber yarns with a high alkali decomposition rate are woven into a plain weave structure, and the polyester fiber yarns with a high decomposition rate are below the warp.

Warp group X ₁ and weft group Y ₁ or warp group X ₂ in Figure 2
The part woven with the weft group Y ₂ forms the floating pattern part,
Corresponding to the bulge pattern part 1 in Fig. 1, the warp group
The part woven by _{X 2} and weft group Y ₁ and _the warp group
corresponds to

That is, in the floating part, the polyester fiber threads with a high alkali decomposition rate are floating on the back side, so on the front side, only the normal polyester fiber threads are used as warp and threads.
The surface of the fabric is made into a plain weave structure by using it for the weft, and two polyester fiber threads with a high alkali decomposition rate and two normal polyester fiber threads are used alternately for the weft in the non-floating part. However, since polyester fiber yarns are normally used for the warp yarns and are woven into a plain weave structure, there are no floating yarns.

In the fabric of the present invention, the arrangement of such floating pattern portions and non-floating pattern portions can be selected as appropriate in addition to the example shown in FIG.

Next, in the method of the present invention, such a fabric is subjected to shrinkage treatment and heat setting treatment to form a bulge pattern. Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the cross section when the fabric is cut in the weft direction at the part where the floating yarns are visible.In Figure _3A , the floating yarns 4 in the floating pattern section indicated by The non-floating part shown by X ₂ is woven into a plain weave structure. When this fabric is subjected to shrinkage treatment and heat setting treatment, the floating threads 4 indicated by _X1 shrink as shown in FIG.

Since heat setting is performed in the method of the present invention, the polyester fiber threads which have a high alkali decomposition rate and become the floating threads 4 are dissolved and removed by the subsequent alkali treatment, thereby separating the floating pattern part and the openwork pattern part. This allows it to be formed into something with a stable shape.

The above-mentioned shrinkage treatment and heat setting treatment may be performed in one step, and after the shrinkage treatment (for example, treatment in 100℃ hot water), heat setting treatment (for example, treatment in 160 to 200℃
A dry heat set (dry heat set at °C) may be applied.

As mentioned above, the fabric of the present invention is not a double weave structure, so it is lightweight and has a bulging pattern part with high elasticity. Since there is no lining, it is possible to make lightweight textiles that do not require lining when used for clothing.

In addition, since the fabric of the present invention dissolves and removes polyester fiber threads that have a high alkali decomposition rate, it is possible to create a clear openwork pattern, and because the fabric is heat-set prior to the alkali treatment, the openwork pattern does not change. There is no possibility of misalignment of the parts.

In addition, in the fabric of the present invention, by appropriately arranging the bulging pattern portion and the openwork pattern portion, it is possible to create a special pattern with a full uneven feel. That is, the bulge pattern is formed by arranging the openwork pattern, and as long as the entire woven fabric has a bulge pattern, there is no difference from a normal woven fabric. On the other hand, in the open pattern portion, the bulge pattern portions are appropriately arranged, which contributes to maintaining the mechanical balance of the threads within the fabric. As described above, in the fabric of the present invention, a stable special pattern can only be made possible by appropriately arranging the bulge pattern part and the openwork pattern part.

In addition, in the present invention, by using highly twisted yarns for the polyester fiber yarns which have a slow alkali decomposition rate, it is possible to impart grain-like irregularities to the fabric surface in addition to the bulging pattern portion and the open pattern portion.

Further, it goes without saying that the fabric of the present invention may have a normal woven structure arranged as appropriate in addition to the above-mentioned portions consisting of the bulging pattern portion and the open pattern portion.

Examples will be explained below.

Example: 60 ordinary polyester fiber threads as warp
de, (twist number S300T/m), the weft is 80de of normal polyester fiber yarn (twist number S300T/m), 4 parts of polyethylene glycol (average molecular weight 20000) per 100 parts of normal polyester, sodium alkyl sulfonate. (Average carbon number 14) Two parts of 50 de modified polyester fiber strongly twisted yarn (number of twists 3000 T/m) are alternately implanted into a part where 20 tissue points of the modified polyester yarn are lifted, and a part where 20 tissue points of the modified polyester yarn are lifted. After making a fabric with the parts to be woven in place and shrinking it in a relaxed state,
The fabric preset at a dry heat temperature of 180°C, immersed in a 3.5% caustic soda solution at a temperature of 98°C for 50 minutes, washed with water, dried, and dyed has a weight loss rate of 9.0% compared to the above-mentioned ordinary polyester fiber. At this time, the modified polyester is completely dissolved and removed, and the texture points of the modified polyester yarn form an openwork pattern.
The raised portion formed a bulging pattern, and a fabric with a rich surface variation and a soft texture was obtained.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a plan view of a fabric showing one embodiment of the present invention, FIG. 2 is an organization chart of the fabric shown in FIG. 1, and FIG.
The figure is a sectional view showing an example of a cross section when the fabric of the present invention is cut in the fabric weft direction at a portion where floating threads are visible. 1...Bulge pattern, 2...Watermark pattern, 4...
floating line.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A woven fabric consisting of an openwork pattern part and a non-openwork pattern part formed by dissolving and removing threads, wherein the non-openwork pattern part has a larger apparent weave density than the openwork pattern part. A woven fabric with a special pattern, characterized in that the fabric has a bulging pattern, and the threads forming the openwork pattern part and the non-openwork pattern part are both made of polyester fiber. 2. Using polyester fiber yarns having two or more different alkali decomposition rates such that yarns with higher shrinkage rates have higher alkali decomposition rates,
When producing a woven fabric, a pattern part in which two or more thread tissue points having a higher alkali decomposition rate are floated in succession, and a thread tissue point having a higher alkali decomposition rate in the floating pattern. The woven fabric is woven by appropriately arranging non-floating pattern parts, which are larger than the non-floating pattern parts, and the woven fabric is subjected to shrinkage treatment and heat setting treatment to form a bulging pattern,
A method for producing a woven fabric with a special pattern, characterized in that the yarns having a high alkali decomposition rate are then dissolved and removed by alkali treatment.