JPS648097B2 - - Google Patents
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- Publication number
- JPS648097B2 JPS648097B2 JP56133276A JP13327681A JPS648097B2 JP S648097 B2 JPS648097 B2 JP S648097B2 JP 56133276 A JP56133276 A JP 56133276A JP 13327681 A JP13327681 A JP 13327681A JP S648097 B2 JPS648097 B2 JP S648097B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- shrinkage
- fibers
- knitted fabric
- milled
- animal hair
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
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- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 38
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- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 18
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- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 13
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- BAPJBEWLBFYGME-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methyl acrylate Chemical compound COC(=O)C=C BAPJBEWLBFYGME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 6
- YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCCCO YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- JHUFGBSGINLPOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-chloro-4-(trifluoromethoxy)benzoyl cyanide Chemical compound FC(F)(F)OC1=CC=C(C(=O)C#N)C=C1Cl JHUFGBSGINLPOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- UUAGPGQUHZVJBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Bisphenol A bis(2-hydroxyethyl)ether Chemical compound C=1C=C(OCCO)C=CC=1C(C)(C)C1=CC=C(OCCO)C=C1 UUAGPGQUHZVJBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- YIMQCDZDWXUDCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N [4-(hydroxymethyl)cyclohexyl]methanol Chemical compound OCC1CCC(CO)CC1 YIMQCDZDWXUDCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000007334 copolymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 3
- KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N naphthalene-1,2-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound C1=CC=CC2=C(C(O)=O)C(C(=O)O)=CC=C21 KYTZHLUVELPASH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229920002972 Acrylic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920001634 Copolyester Polymers 0.000 description 2
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 2
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Terephthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009950 felting Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- ARCGXLSVLAOJQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimellitic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C(C(O)=O)=C1 ARCGXLSVLAOJQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000002166 wet spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- FGTYTUFKXYPTML-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-benzoylbenzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 FGTYTUFKXYPTML-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GMOYUTKNPLBTMT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenylmethoxybenzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1OCC1=CC=CC=C1 GMOYUTKNPLBTMT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000282836 Camelus dromedarius Species 0.000 description 1
- 241000238631 Hexapoda Species 0.000 description 1
- 241001416177 Vicugna pacos Species 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000001735 carboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001991 dicarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002349 favourable effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004898 kneading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003801 milling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentaerythritol Chemical compound OCC(CO)(CO)CO WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009971 piece dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003908 quality control method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002787 reinforcement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 description 1
- IBBQVGDGTMTZRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium;2-sulfobenzene-1,3-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound [Na].OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1S(O)(=O)=O IBBQVGDGTMTZRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002195 synergetic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009970 yarn dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Description
本発明はミルド調編織物に関する。詳しくはポ
リエステル繊維とアクリルニトリル繊維と獣毛の
三者からなる新規なミルド調編織物とその製造方
法に関するものである。
一般に、羊毛を主とする獣毛布帛はクリアカツ
ト仕上品とミルド仕上品に大別される。クリアカ
ツト仕上品の特徴は、織物で言えばプレーンで織
組織の綾目がきれいに出ていることであるが、ミ
ルド仕上品は起毛あるいは縮絨またはこの両方に
より織組織の綾目がみえないことである。特にミ
ルド仕上品の代表的布帛であるフラノは縮絨によ
り、経・緯方向に充分に収縮させて、起毛、剪毛
工程をくり返し、毛羽をきれいに絡らませること
が重要な特徴である。
縮絨は、外部より機械的作用を反復して作用さ
せることにより該布帛を構成する繊維がその軸方
向に運動することによつて織物等が縮む現象であ
つて、獣毛がかかる縮絨性を有するのはスケール
(獣毛表面にあるウロコ状組織)に起因し、指向
性摩擦効果を生ずるからである。このようなスケ
ール状のものがなく、表面が平滑な疎水性合成繊
維は、縮絨性を全く有しないため、非収縮合成繊
維/獣毛混紡品はクリアカツト仕上には適してい
るが、縮絨工程を必要とするミルド調仕上品を得
んとする場合は該非収縮合成繊維が獣毛の縮絨を
阻外してしまうがために一般に縮絨効果が不充分
であり風合上の問題を有していたものであるか、
さらには獣毛100%とほぼ同等の縮絨性を得るに
は数倍もの時間を要していたものである。
本発明者らは、先にかかる問題点を改善する方
法について特開昭55−128040号公報等で提案をし
たが、超高収縮能を有するポリエステル系繊維の
紡糸性、延伸性などに一部問題が残り安定性産が
むつかしく、このための縮絨性または布帛品位に
バラツキがおこる欠点があつた。
本発明者らは、このような点に鑑み、フラノ織
物を合繊/獣毛混で安定かつ布帛品位にバラツキ
のないことを可能ならしめるべく鋭意検討した結
果、本発明に到達したものである。
本発明の目的は、合成繊維/獣毛混紡績糸を用
いているのにもかかわらず、上記縮絨性を極めて
良好なものにし得、併せて、合成繊維を用いたこ
とによつて天然獣毛100%使いのミルド調編織物
では到底得られなかつた良好なプリーツ加工性、
高強力、耐久性等の合成繊維の特長を良好に付与
し得る新規なミルド調編織物およびその製造方法
を提供せんとするものである。
かかる目的は、ポリエステル系合成繊維の短繊
維Aと、アクリロニトリル系合成繊維の短繊維
B、及び獣毛が混在している先染混紡紡績糸から
構成されるミルド調編織物において、上記短繊維
Aは熱水(100℃)処理時の収縮率が5〜20%の
中収縮能と30〜300mg/dの収縮発現応力能を潜在
的に保有し、また短繊維Bは熱水(100℃)処理
時の収縮率が10〜30%の高収縮能と30〜300mg/d
の収縮発現応力能を潜在的に保有していると共
に、上記短繊維Aおよび短繊維Bの潜在収縮能と
収縮発現応力能が編織物の状態で顕在化されてい
ることを特徴とするミルド調編織物、および第3
成分として1.5〜20モル%の共重合成分を含むポ
リエステルトウと、熱水(100℃)処理を施すこ
とによる収縮率が10〜30%、収縮発現応力が30〜
300mg/dの収縮能を有する共重合アクリロニトリ
ル系トウとを、トウ染色し、牽切して短繊維化し
たのちに、該2成分の短繊維と獣毛とを混紡し紡
績糸とし、次いで編織物とし、しかる後縮絨加工
することを特徴とするミルド調編織物の製造方法
とすることによつて達成される。
以下、さらに詳しく本発明のミルド調編織物お
よびその製造方法について説明をする。
本発明に用いられる紡績糸は、ポリエステル系
合成繊維の短繊維Aとアクリロニトリル系合成繊
維の短繊維Bと獣毛の先染め混紡になるものであ
り、獣毛繊維としては、メリノ羊毛、アンゴラ、
ビキユーナ、ラクダ、アルパカ等を用いることが
できる。ポリエステル系合成繊維の短繊維Aは熱
水(100℃)処理を施すことによる収縮率として
5〜20%の中収縮能と発現応力として30〜300mg/
dの収縮発現応力能を潜在的に保有し、またアク
リロニトリル系合成繊維の短繊維Bは熱水(100
℃)処理を施すことによる収縮率が10〜30%の高
収縮能と発現応力が30〜300mg/dの収縮発現応力
能を潜在的に保有しているものである。
ここで、従来、混紡糸といえば、天然繊維どう
しないしは合成繊維どうしの組合せによる混紡、
および合成繊維と天然繊維との混紡が一般的であ
り、中でも近年、後者の混紡方式が普遍的なもの
となつてきているが今までの混紡に際する基本的
な考え方は、品質上の観点から混紡しようとする
繊維の性状、たとえば繊維長分布、単繊維デニー
ル、強伸度特性等をできるだけ合致させようとす
るものであり、そのような配慮が通常とられてい
たものである。
しかして、上記の如き本発明に用いられる混紡
糸の組合せは、従来の混紡糸の設計に際しての考
え方とは大きく相異してなるものである。
かかる組合せは、縮絨効果を良好に発揮するこ
とをねらいなされたものであり、さらに詳しく該
効果について説明をすると、フエルテイングによ
る縮絨は、本来は羊毛などの獣毛独特の挙動であ
り、布帛全体としてはあたかも収縮を起こしたか
のように面積収縮が生じているものである。
本発明者らは、合成繊維短繊維として、該繊維
を熱水(100℃)処理した際に収縮率が10%以上
30%以下の高収縮能と収縮発現応力として30mg/
d以上300mg/d以下の高収縮発現応力能を潜在的
に有しているものを用いることにより、合成繊
維/獣毛混紡績糸使い布帛でも容易に良好な縮絨
性が発揮できるという知見を見出したが、さらに
望ましくは合成繊維で収縮能の異なる2種以上の
混合すなわち混紡糸としては獣毛を含む3種以上
の繊維混合により、熱収縮能として高収縮能繊
維/中収縮能繊維/低収縮能繊維なる3層構造と
することが、より有効であり、合成繊維の短繊維
A(中収縮能繊維)が熱水(100℃)処理を施すこ
とによる収縮率として5〜20%の中収縮能と発現
応力として30〜300mg/d以下の収縮発現応力能を
潜在的に保有し、合成繊維の短繊維B(高収縮能
繊維)が熱水(100℃)処理を施すことによる収
縮率が10〜30%の高収縮能と発現応力が30〜300
mg/dの収縮発現応力能を潜在的に保有している
ものを用い、しかも合成繊維の短繊維Aはポリエ
ステル系繊維であり、合成繊維の短繊維Bはアク
リロニトリル系繊維であることが、より一層、良
好な縮絨性が発揮できるという知見を見出したも
のである。
上記短繊維Aの収縮率が5%未満では糸または
布帛表面部に配置させようとする獣毛との混在確
率が多くなり獣毛の縮絨性を阻害することにな
り、また20%以上では高収縮能成分である短繊維
Bと混在して糸または布帛に硬い風合を有す芯を
形成し好ましくない。また、短繊維Bの収縮率が
10%未満のものは糸ないしは布帛の収縮が不十分
であり、また30%を超えると風合いが硬化しがち
であり好ましくない。
また、収縮応力は拘束下にある糸ないしは布帛
の収縮の起こりやすさを左右するものであり、収
縮応力が高いほど拘束下でも収縮しやすいもので
ある。上記した収縮発現応力能として30mg/d未
満のものはかかる点から好ましくないものであ
り、300mg/dを超えるものはまた、ミルド加工工
程で布帛が受ける熱で収縮が敏感になりすぎ工程
管理上、さらにバツチ間の品質管理上の点から好
ましくない。
さらに該縮絨性を左右する要因には、羊毛等の
獣毛繊維の混紡率、品番、紡績糸を構成している
羊毛等の獣毛繊維の繊維長、紡績糸のヨリ条件さ
らには布帛の種類、組織、密度等があり、これら
単独要素を組合わせれば相乗効果を発揮するもの
であるが、本発明方法の如く合成繊維/獣毛混紡
布帛では、合成繊維の収縮能が2者混紡以上から
なる、いわゆるバルキー構造となつていることが
縮絨性効果をより効果的に発揮させる上で重要な
要素となる。
すなわち、熱処理工程において獣毛をより布帛
表面層に集中化させるために必要な収縮能を具備
した合成繊維と獣毛繊維がある混紡率下で、該合
成繊維が1種類の収縮能から成る場合と2種類の
収縮能から成る場合の構成において布帛の縮絨性
を比較すると、本発明にかかる構成の方が布帛表
面層に位置する獣毛繊維量が同一であるにもかか
わらず獣毛の拘束がゆるやかであるため、縮絨工
程での獣毛の移動が容易であり、フエルテイング
がスムースに進行して縮絨性が良好となるもので
ある。このような効果を発揮する上で本発明者ら
の知見によれば、合成繊維は2種以上の混紡と
し、合成繊維の短繊維Aは5〜20%の沸水収縮能
を有し、合成繊維の短繊維Bは10〜30%の沸水収
縮能を有し、かつ短繊維A,Bともに収縮応力は
30〜300mg/dを有することが重要である。
本発明によりミルド調編織物を製造した場合、
該編織物の中心層においては合成繊維の短繊維B
の構成比率が基準構成比率より概して高く、また
中間層においては合成繊維の短繊維Aの構成比率
が基準構成比率より概して高く、また表面層にお
いては獣毛繊維の構成比率が基準構成比率より高
くなる、いわゆる三層構造布帛となる傾向にある
ものである。したがつて、該編織物は、獣毛繊維
100%使いのミルド調編織物とほぼ同等の風合、
外観を呈し、同時に合成繊維によるプリーツ加工
性の良さ、高強力、高耐久性等の特徴を兼ね備え
たものとなる。
本発明において共重合ポリエステル繊維、アク
リル繊維、および獣毛は先染がなされていること
が必要である。そして好ましくは上記共重合ポリ
エステル繊維、アクリル繊維はトウ染色されてい
ることである。かかる先染と牽切紡績とを組合わ
せることによりはじめて縮絨性が発現し、高付加
価値製品が得られる。前記トウ染色における染色
方法は、ビゴロ染色が最も好ましい。これは様々
な色彩を組合わせることができ、各々の単繊維は
異なつた色彩を有しているが、布帛全体としては
同一系統の色彩となり、後染では決して得ること
のできない高級色彩を与えることができるからで
ある。
本発明にかかる上記の如き繊維構成から成る紡
績糸を用いて上記の如くミルド調編織物を得んと
するに際し、合成繊維の短繊維Aとしてポリエス
テル系繊維を、合成繊維の短繊維Bとしてポリア
クリロニトリル系繊維を、天然獣毛繊維として羊
毛を用いた組合せが最も効果的でかつ実際的であ
る。このような場合上記した布帛への合成繊維に
よる特徴付与は主として短繊維Aから成るポリエ
ステル系繊維が寄与し、短繊維Bから成るポリア
クリロニトリル系繊維は布帛を収縮させることに
寄与する。該短繊維Bはミルド調編織物としては
布帛中心層に位置し、一般には芯のある布帛とし
て欠点となるが、ポリアクリロニトリル系繊維の
熱的特性から、繊維密度の割合にしては芯と感じ
る程度が小さくなる。従つて芯は柔らかくなる。
ポリエステル系繊維の1例として、下記する如
き共重合ポリエステルとすることにより、前述の
収縮能と収縮発現応力能を潜在的に保有している
ものに容易になすことができるものである。
すなわち、第3成分として下記(1)〜(3)の化合物
のうち少なくとも1種を全反復単位の1.5〜20モ
ル%共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレート系繊
維が好適である。
ここで、第1成分とはテレフタル酸、第2成分
とはエチレングリコールを意味するものである。
第3成分としては下記のものが好ましい。
(1) イソフタル酸を共重合させたポリエチレンテ
レフタレート。
この場合、イソフタル酸基のほかに他の第4
成分が10モル%を越えない範囲で共重合されて
いてもかまわない。このような第4成分として
はアジピン酸、セバシン酸、ナフタリンジカル
ボン酸等の二官能性カルボン酸、トリメチレン
グライコール、ジエチレングライコール、ポリ
エチレングライコール、1,4―シクロヘキサ
ンジメタノール等のジオール化合物が挙げられ
る。
この(1)の場合、イソフタル酸基を3モル%以
上、好ましくは4〜10モル%共重合させること
が好ましく、イソフタル酸基の共重合が3モル
%未満では大きな収縮性能が得られにくいし、
20モル%を越えると十分な糸質が得られにくい
ものである。
(2) 2,2―ビス(4′―β―ヒドロキシエトキシ
フエニル)プロパンを共重合させたポリエチレ
ンテレフタレート。
この場合、2,2―ビス(4′―β―ヒドロキ
シエトキシフエニル)プロパンのほかに他の第
4成分が10モル%を越えない範囲で共重合され
ていてもかまわない。このような第4成分とし
てはイソフタル酸、アジピン酸、セバシン酸、
ナフタレンジカルボン酸、トリメチレングライ
コール、1,4―シクロヘキサンジメタノール
等のジオール化合物が挙げられる。この(2)の場
合、2,2―ビス(4′―β―ヒドロキシエトキ
シフエニル)プロパンの共重合量が1.5モル%
未満ではやはり目的としている大きな収縮性能
が得られにくく、20モル%を越えると十分な糸
質が得られにくいものである。
(3) メタ―ソジウムスルホイソフタル酸を共重合
させたポリエチレンテレフタレート。
第4成分として、アジピン酸、セバシン酸、
イソフタル酸、ナフタリンジカルボン酸等の2
官能性ジカルボン酸、トリメチレングライコー
ル、ジエチレングライコール、ポリエチレング
ライコール、1,4―シクロヘキサンジメタノ
ール等のジオール化合物、ベンゾイル安息香
酸、ベンジルオキシ安息香酸、メトキシポリエ
チレングライコールのごとき単官能化合物、グ
リセリン、トリメリツト酸、ペンタエリスリト
ールのごとき3官能又はそれ以上の多官能性化
合物等を共重合させることが望ましい場合もあ
る。なお、第4成分は前記化合物の二種以上の
混合物であつてもよい。この(3)の場合、1.5モ
ル%以上のメタ―ソジウムスルホイソフタル酸
成分を共重合させることが望ましく、該メタ―
ソジウムスルホイソフタル酸成分と第4成分と
の合計共重合量が2モル%以上、特に2.4〜11
モル%であることが望ましい。1.5モル%未満
では収縮率が大きくなりにくいし、20モル%以
上では収縮率以外の特性の低下も見られ好まし
くない。
また、ポリアクリロニトリル系繊維の1例と
してアクリルニトリルに対しアクリル酸メチル
を2〜10モル%およびアリルスルホン酸ソーダ
を0.1〜5.0モル%共重合してなるアクリルニト
リルを用いるのがよい。
上記のこれら繊維は、前記した如きの収縮能と
収縮発現応力能を、好ましく保有しているもので
あつて、従来、合成繊維/羊毛混の縮絨は非常に
困離であり、長時間を要すると考えられていたも
のであつたが、このような高収縮アクリル/中収
縮ポリエステル/獣毛混の構成とすることによ
り、極めて良好な縮絨効果が得られるものであ
る。
なお、熱水(100℃)処理による収縮率は、枠
周1mのラツプリールを用い10回巻きの小綛を作
り、試料糸の原長aを求めた後、熱水処理(100
℃×30分)を施し、24時間自然乾燥を行なつた
後、長さbを求め、次式で算出するものである。
収縮率(%)=a―b/a×100(%)
ここで、該測定対象試料糸は、測定に供される
合成繊維100%のNn=2/52(メートル番手)糸
で、aおよびbの測定荷重は200gとするもので
ある。
また、収縮発現応力は他端を歪計に取付け他の
一端を固定して一定の長さに保たれた繊維を100
℃の熱水槽に投入し、発生する収縮応力をレコー
ダに記録し、その最大値(g/d)を収縮発現応
力能として求めるものである。
本発明で用いられるポリエステル繊維、あるい
はポリアクリロニトリル系繊維等の合成繊維は、
1次延伸トウを直接あるいは2次延伸後ケン切方
式でカツトして短繊維化したものであつて、トウ
は染色してあるものが適用し得る。該合成繊維短
繊維の出発原料形態が1次延伸トウであること
は、熱的に安定であるため、前記染色、薬液処理
等を安定的に施すことを可能にする効果を招くも
のである。加えて、該トウを2次延伸する場合で
も、1次延伸トウ並みの高収縮レベルを保持でき
得るものであり、これらの点は、本格ミルド品の
主流が先染品であることを考慮すれば、より実際
的なものであると云える。
本発明においてポリエステル系の合成繊維の短
繊維Aとアクリロニトリル系の合成繊維の短繊維
Bと獣毛繊維Cの混率は任意であるが、風合等の
面からCは20〜80重量%が良い。Cが20重量%未
満では獣毛繊維の持ち味が概して発揮され得ない
し、80重量%より高いとポリエステル等の合成繊
維の特性を概して発揮できない。また、アクリロ
ニトリル系合成繊維の短繊維Bは10〜40重量%が
良い。Bが10重量%未満では布帛の収縮能不足と
なり良好な縮絨性が概して得られないし、40重量
%より高いとポリエステルおよび羊毛の特性を概
して発揮できないばかりでなく、布帛に芯を形成
し風合を害する。
獣毛繊維の持ち味とは、羊毛なら保温性、嵩高
性、伸縮性、張・腰、反発性、タツチに代表され
る総合的特性であり、一方、合成繊維の持ち味と
しては、プリーツ保持性、高強度・補強、防シワ
性、耐久性、寸法安定性、耐洗タク性、耐防虫性
などのよさに総合される特性を云う。
なお、むろん本発明の効果を損わない範囲で少
量の他の繊維を混紡糸中ないし編織物中に混用す
ることは何ら差支えない。
上記の如き混紡糸を用いてなる編織物は、必要
に応じて適宜の仕上げ加工を施され、縮絨加工に
供される。
好ましい具体的仕上げ加工について述べれば下
記の如くである。
すなわち、仕上加工としては、縮絨の前に下記
の条件の如き熱水収縮処理をするのがよい。該熱
水処理温度は60℃以上98℃以下、好ましくは60℃
〜90℃、最も望ましくは70℃〜90℃の範囲であ
る。この熱水処理は主に経方向の収縮を行なうも
のであるため出来るだけ低張力下が望ましい。加
工機としてはリラツクサー、ウインス等が挙げら
れる。さらに乾燥の後、中間セツトを行なうが中
間セツトの温度としては150℃〜190℃が望まし
い。しかる後に縮絨工程に供するのである。
この様に熱水処理、中間セツトを施さず、縮絨
工程に入つた場合は鋭角状のシワが発生しやすく
商品価値を損う場合がある。なおまた、このよう
なシワ発生を避けるため生機セツトを行なう工程
は合成繊維短繊維の高収縮性能を損う場合もある
ため一般には不適当である。
好ましくはこのような熱水処理、中間セツトを
行ない縮絨した後、さらに起毛、剪毛、蒸絨で仕
上加工を施すものである。
なお本発明における縮絨加工とは、一般にウー
ルで行なわれている方法、条件が好ましく、例え
ば温度10〜80℃好ましくは30〜60℃の水中で、界
面活性剤を存在させ、布帛を小さな孔から丸めて
引つ張り出す工程を何回か通し、基本的には揉む
という作用を与える加工を示すものである。
以上述べた通りの本発明によれば、合成繊維/
獣毛混紡績糸を用いているのにもかかわらず、ミ
ルド調編織物を得るに際し縮絨性を極めて良好な
ものにし得、併せて、合成繊維を用いたことによ
つて天然獣毛100%使いのミルド調編織物では到
底得られなかつた良好なプリーツ加工性、高強
力、耐久性等の合成繊維の特長を良好に付与し得
る新規なミルド調編織物およびその製造方法が提
供される。
以下、実施例により具体的に本発明の構成・効
果を説明する。
実施例 1
イソフタル酸を12モル%共重合した変性ポリエ
チレンテレフタレートを常法により重合して極限
粘度0.505のチツプにした。このチツプを160℃で
減圧乾燥した後、直径0.23mm―300ホールから吐
出して1200m/minで紡出し、これを収束して45
万デニールのトウとした。このトウを延伸温度75
℃、延伸倍率3.82倍で液中延伸して得た延伸トウ
を黒色に染色した。染色条件は130℃×60分で染
料は分散染料を用いた。該トウを「P―1」と呼
称する。一方、イソフタル酸を5モル%共重合し
た変性ポリエチレンテレフタレートを常法により
重合して極限粘度0.500のチツプにした。このチ
ツプを160℃で減圧乾燥した後、直径0.23mm―300
ホールから吐出して1500m/minで紡出し、これ
を収束して45万デニールのトウとした。このトウ
を延伸温度75℃、延伸倍率3.82倍で液中延伸して
得た延伸トウを分散染料を用い130℃×60分条件
で黒色に染色した。該トウを「P―2」と呼称す
る。また、アクリロニトリル93.64モル%、アク
リル酸メチル6.0モル%、アリルスルホン酸ソー
ダ0.36モル%からなる共重合体を通常の湿式紡糸
で紡糸し、集束して延伸後水洗し、湿熱113℃で
バツチセツト後トウとした。該トウをカチオン染
料を用い100℃×60分条件で赤色に染色した。該
トウを「Ac―1」と呼称する。
各先染トウをオーエム製作所製トウリアクター
で2次延伸後ケン切し、スライバとした。得られ
たスライバの単繊維の収縮特性について評価した
ところ表1の通りであつた。
The present invention relates to milled knitted fabrics. Specifically, the present invention relates to a novel milled-like knitted fabric made of polyester fiber, acrylonitrile fiber, and animal hair, and a method for producing the same. In general, animal blankets that are mainly made of wool can be divided into two types: clear-cut and milled. The characteristic of clear-cut finished products is that the twill of the woven structure is clearly visible in plain textiles, but the twill of the woven structure is not visible in milled finished products due to raised or wrinkled or both. be. In particular, an important feature of flannel, which is a typical milled fabric, is that it is sufficiently shrunk in the warp and weft directions by fullening, and the napping and shearing processes are repeated to neatly entangle the fuzz. Fulling is a phenomenon in which textiles, etc., shrink due to the movement of the fibers that make up the fabric in their axial direction due to repeated external mechanical action, and the shrinking property of animal hair This is because the scale (scale-like structure on the surface of animal hair) causes a directional friction effect. Hydrophobic synthetic fibers that are free of scale and have a smooth surface have no shrinkage properties at all, so non-shrink synthetic fiber/animal hair blends are suitable for clear cut finishing, but they do not have shrinkage properties. When trying to obtain a milled finished product that requires a process, the non-shrinking synthetic fibers block the shrinking of animal hair, so the shrinking effect is generally insufficient and there are problems with texture. Is it what you were doing?
Furthermore, it took several times as long to achieve the same shrinkage properties as 100% animal hair. The present inventors previously proposed a method for improving the above problems in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 128040/1983, but some problems such as spinnability and drawability of polyester fibers with ultra-high shrinkage ability. Problems remained and stable production was difficult, resulting in the drawback of variations in shrinkage or fabric quality. In view of these points, the inventors of the present invention have arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive studies aimed at making it possible to make flannel fabric a synthetic fiber/animal hair blend that is stable and has consistent fabric quality. The purpose of the present invention is to make the above-mentioned shrinkage property extremely good despite using a synthetic fiber/animal hair blend yarn, and also to improve the shrinkability of natural animal hair by using synthetic fibers. Excellent pleat workability that could never be achieved with milled knitted fabrics made of 100% wool.
The object of the present invention is to provide a novel milled knitted fabric that can satisfactorily impart the characteristics of synthetic fibers such as high strength and durability, and a method for producing the same. This purpose is to provide a milled knitted fabric composed of yarn-dyed blended spun yarn in which short fibers A of polyester synthetic fibers, short fibers B of acrylonitrile synthetic fibers, and animal hair are mixed. short fiber B has a potential shrinkage rate of 5 to 20% when treated with hot water (100℃) and a shrinkage stress capacity of 30 to 300mg/d, and short fiber B has a shrinkage rate of 5 to 20% when treated with hot water (100℃). High contractility with a shrinkage rate of 10-30% and 30-300mg/d during processing
The milled-like fabric is characterized in that the short fiber A and the short fiber B have the latent shrinkage stress ability and the shrinkage stress ability of the short fiber B in the state of the knitted fabric. knitted fabric, and third
Polyester tow contains 1.5 to 20 mol% of copolymerized components, and when treated with hot water (100°C), the shrinkage rate is 10 to 30%, and the shrinkage stress is 30 to 30%.
A copolymerized acrylonitrile tow with a shrinkage capacity of 300 mg/d is tow dyed and cut into short fibers, and then these two short fibers and animal hair are blended to form a spun yarn, and then knitted. This is achieved by a method for manufacturing a milled-like knitted fabric, which is characterized in that it is made into a woven fabric and then subjected to a crimp process. Hereinafter, the milled knitted fabric of the present invention and the method for producing the same will be explained in more detail. The spun yarn used in the present invention is a yarn-dyed blend of polyester synthetic fiber short fiber A, acrylonitrile synthetic fiber short fiber B, and animal hair.
Bicyuna, camel, alpaca, etc. can be used. Polyester synthetic fiber short fiber A has a medium shrinkage capacity of 5 to 20% and developed stress of 30 to 300 mg/
Short fibers B, which are acrylonitrile-based synthetic fibers, potentially have the shrinkage stress capacity of d.
°C) treatment, it potentially has a high contractile ability with a shrinkage rate of 10 to 30% and a contractile stress ability with an expressed stress of 30 to 300 mg/d. Conventionally, blended yarns are blends made by combining natural fibers or synthetic fibers,
Blends of synthetic fibers and natural fibers are common, and in recent years, the latter blending method has become universal, but the basic concept of blending up until now has been from the viewpoint of quality. The aim is to match as much as possible the properties of the fibers to be blended, such as fiber length distribution, single fiber denier, strength and elongation characteristics, etc., and such consideration has usually been taken. Therefore, the combination of blended yarns used in the present invention as described above is very different from the concept used in designing conventional blended yarns. This combination is aimed at achieving a good fulling effect, and to explain this effect in more detail, the fulling caused by felting is originally a behavior unique to animal hair such as wool. The fabric as a whole exhibits area shrinkage as if it had undergone shrinkage. The present inventors have discovered that when the fibers are treated with hot water (100°C) as short synthetic fibers, the shrinkage rate is 10% or more.
High contractility of less than 30% and contraction stress of 30mg/
We found that by using a material that potentially has a high shrinkage stress capacity of d or more and 300 mg/d or less, even fabrics made of synthetic fiber/animal hair blended yarn can easily exhibit good shrinkage properties. However, it is more desirable to mix two or more types of synthetic fibers with different shrinkage capacities, i.e., a mixture of three or more types of fibers including animal hair as a blended yarn, to obtain high shrinkage capacity fibers/medium shrinkage capacity fibers/ It is more effective to have a three-layer structure consisting of low shrinkage fibers, and the short fibers A (medium shrinkage fibers) of synthetic fibers have a shrinkage rate of 5 to 20% when treated with hot water (100℃). Short fibers B (high shrinkage capacity fibers) of synthetic fibers, which have medium shrinkage capacity and potential stress capacity of 30 to 300 mg/d or less, shrink when treated with hot water (100°C). High contractility with a rate of 10-30% and developed stress of 30-300
It is more preferable to use synthetic fibers that potentially have a shrinkage stress capacity of mg/d, and that the synthetic short fibers A are polyester fibers and the synthetic short fibers B are acrylonitrile fibers. We have discovered that even better shrinkage properties can be exhibited. If the shrinkage rate of the short fibers A is less than 5%, the probability of mixing with animal hair to be placed on the surface of the yarn or fabric increases, impeding the shrinkage of the animal hair, and if it is more than 20%, It is not preferable because it is mixed with the short fiber B, which is a high shrinkage component, and forms a core with a hard texture in the yarn or fabric. In addition, the shrinkage rate of short fiber B is
If it is less than 10%, the shrinkage of the yarn or fabric is insufficient, and if it exceeds 30%, the texture tends to be stiff, which is not preferable. In addition, the shrinkage stress influences the ease with which a thread or fabric under restraint will shrink, and the higher the shrinkage stress, the more likely it is to shrink even under restraint. A shrinkage stress capacity of less than 30 mg/d is undesirable from this point of view, and a stress capacity of more than 300 mg/d is too sensitive to shrinkage due to the heat received by the fabric during the milling process, making it difficult to manage the process. , which is also unfavorable from the viewpoint of quality control between batches. Furthermore, the factors that influence the shrinkage include the blend ratio of animal hair fibers such as wool, product number, fiber length of animal hair fibers such as wool that make up the spun yarn, twist conditions of the spun yarn, and the fabric. There are different types, textures, densities, etc., and when these individual elements are combined, they exhibit a synergistic effect. However, in the synthetic fiber/animal hair blend fabric as in the method of the present invention, the shrinkage ability of the synthetic fiber is higher than that of the two-way blend. The so-called bulky structure as described above is an important factor in more effectively exhibiting the shrinking effect. In other words, when a synthetic fiber and an animal hair fiber are blended with a shrinkage ability necessary for concentrating the animal hair on the surface layer of the fabric in the heat treatment process, and the synthetic fiber is composed of one type of shrinkage ability. Comparing the shrinkage properties of fabrics with two types of shrinkage ability, the structure according to the present invention shows that the amount of animal hair fibers located in the surface layer of the fabric is the same, but the amount of animal hair fibers is the same. Since the restraint is gentle, the movement of the animal hair during the shrinking process is easy, and the felting progresses smoothly, resulting in good shrinking properties. According to the findings of the present inventors, in order to exhibit such an effect, the synthetic fibers should be a blend of two or more types, and the short fibers A of the synthetic fibers have a boiling water shrinkage capacity of 5 to 20%. Short fiber B has a boiling water shrinkage capacity of 10 to 30%, and the shrinkage stress of both short fibers A and B is
It is important to have 30-300 mg/d. When a milled knitted fabric is produced according to the present invention,
In the center layer of the knitted fabric, short synthetic fibers B
The composition ratio of synthetic fiber A is generally higher than the standard composition ratio in the middle layer, and the composition ratio of synthetic fiber A is generally higher than the standard composition ratio in the surface layer. This fabric tends to have a so-called three-layer structure. Therefore, the knitted fabric is made of animal hair fibers.
Almost the same texture as 100% milled knitted fabric,
At the same time, it has the characteristics of good pleatability due to synthetic fibers, high strength, and high durability. In the present invention, the copolyester fiber, acrylic fiber, and animal hair must be pre-dyed. Preferably, the copolyester fiber and acrylic fiber are tow-dyed. By combining such yarn dyeing and stretch-cut spinning, shrinkage properties are developed for the first time, and high value-added products can be obtained. The most preferable dyeing method for the tow dyeing is Vigoro dyeing. This allows a variety of colors to be combined, and although each single fiber has a different color, the fabric as a whole has the same color system, giving high-quality colors that cannot be obtained with piece dyeing. This is because it can be done. When trying to obtain a milled knitted fabric as described above using the spun yarn having the above-described fiber structure according to the present invention, polyester fibers are used as the short fibers A of the synthetic fibers, and polyester fibers are used as the short fibers B of the synthetic fibers. The combination of acrylonitrile fibers and wool as natural animal hair fibers is most effective and practical. In such a case, the polyester fibers consisting of short fibers A mainly contribute to imparting characteristics to the fabric by the synthetic fibers, and the polyacrylonitrile fibers consisting of short fibers B contribute to shrinking the fabric. The short fibers B are located in the center layer of a milled-like knitted fabric, and are generally a drawback for fabrics with a core, but due to the thermal properties of polyacrylonitrile fibers, they feel like a core in terms of fiber density. The degree becomes smaller. Therefore, the core becomes soft. As an example of the polyester fiber, by using a copolymerized polyester as described below, it can easily be made to potentially have the above-mentioned shrinkage ability and shrinkage generating stress ability. That is, polyethylene terephthalate fibers in which at least one of the following compounds (1) to (3) is copolymerized as the third component in an amount of 1.5 to 20 mol% of the total repeating units are suitable. Here, the first component means terephthalic acid, and the second component means ethylene glycol.
As the third component, the following are preferred. (1) Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with isophthalic acid. In this case, in addition to the isophthalic acid group, other quaternary
The components may be copolymerized within a range not exceeding 10 mol%. Examples of the fourth component include difunctional carboxylic acids such as adipic acid, sebacic acid, and naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, and diol compounds such as trimethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol. Can be mentioned. In the case of (1), it is preferable to copolymerize 3 mol% or more of isophthalic acid groups, preferably 4 to 10 mol%; if the copolymerization of isophthalic acid groups is less than 3 mol%, it is difficult to obtain large shrinkage performance. ,
If it exceeds 20 mol%, it will be difficult to obtain sufficient thread quality. (2) Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2,2-bis(4'-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane. In this case, in addition to 2,2-bis(4'-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane, another fourth component may be copolymerized within a range not exceeding 10 mol%. Such fourth components include isophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid,
Diol compounds such as naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, trimethylene glycol, and 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol can be mentioned. In the case of (2), the copolymerization amount of 2,2-bis(4'-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane is 1.5 mol%.
If it is less than 20 mol%, it will be difficult to obtain the desired high shrinkage performance, and if it exceeds 20 mol%, it will be difficult to obtain sufficient thread quality. (3) Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with meta-sodium sulfoisophthalate. As the fourth component, adipic acid, sebacic acid,
2 such as isophthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, etc.
Functional dicarboxylic acids, trimethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, diol compounds such as 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, monofunctional compounds such as benzoylbenzoic acid, benzyloxybenzoic acid, methoxypolyethylene glycol, glycerin In some cases, it may be desirable to copolymerize a trifunctional or higher functional compound such as trimellitic acid, pentaerythritol, etc. Note that the fourth component may be a mixture of two or more of the above compounds. In the case of (3), it is desirable to copolymerize 1.5 mol% or more of the meta-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component;
The total copolymerization amount of the sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and the fourth component is 2 mol% or more, especially 2.4 to 11
It is desirable that it is mol%. If it is less than 1.5 mol%, the shrinkage rate is difficult to increase, and if it is more than 20 mol%, properties other than the shrinkage rate may deteriorate, which is not preferable. As an example of the polyacrylonitrile fiber, it is preferable to use acrylonitrile obtained by copolymerizing acrylonitrile with 2 to 10 mol% of methyl acrylate and 0.1 to 5.0 mol% of sodium allylsulfonate. These fibers mentioned above preferably have the above-mentioned shrinkage ability and shrinkage stress ability, and conventionally, it has been very difficult to shrink synthetic fiber/wool blends, and it has taken a long time. Although this was thought to be necessary, by using such a composition of high shrinkage acrylic/medium shrinkage polyester/animal hair mixture, an extremely good shrinking effect can be obtained. The shrinkage rate due to hot water treatment (100℃) is determined by making a small reel with 10 turns using a lap reel with a frame circumference of 1m, determining the original length a of the sample yarn, and then applying hot water treatment (100℃).
After drying naturally for 24 hours, the length b is calculated using the following formula. Shrinkage rate (%) = a-b/a x 100 (%) Here, the sample yarn to be measured is a 100% synthetic fiber N n = 2/52 (meter count) yarn used for measurement, and a The measurement load for and b is 200g. In addition, the shrinkage stress can be determined by attaching the other end to a strain meter and fixing the other end to a fiber that is kept at a constant length.
The material is placed in a hot water bath at .degree. C., the shrinkage stress generated is recorded on a recorder, and its maximum value (g/d) is determined as the shrinkage stress capacity. The polyester fibers or synthetic fibers such as polyacrylonitrile fibers used in the present invention are
The first drawn tow can be cut into short fibers either directly or after the second drawing by a cutting method, and the tow can be dyed. The fact that the starting raw material form of the synthetic short fibers is a primary drawn tow is thermally stable, and therefore has the effect of making it possible to stably perform the dyeing, chemical treatment, etc. In addition, even when the tow is subjected to secondary drawing, it is possible to maintain a high shrinkage level comparable to that of the primary drawn tow. It can be said that it is more practical. In the present invention, the mixing ratio of short fibers A of polyester-based synthetic fibers, short fibers B of acrylonitrile-based synthetic fibers, and animal hair fibers C is arbitrary, but from the viewpoint of texture etc., C is preferably 20 to 80% by weight. . If C is less than 20% by weight, the characteristics of animal hair fibers cannot be exhibited, and if it is higher than 80% by weight, the characteristics of synthetic fibers such as polyester cannot be exhibited. Further, the short fiber B of the acrylonitrile synthetic fiber is preferably 10 to 40% by weight. If B is less than 10% by weight, the shrinkage ability of the fabric will be insufficient and good shrinking property will generally not be obtained.If B is more than 40% by weight, not only will the properties of polyester and wool not be exhibited, but the fabric will form a core and become wind-resistant. harm the relationship. The characteristics of animal hair fibers are comprehensive characteristics represented by wool, such as heat retention, bulk, elasticity, tension/waist, resilience, and touch, while synthetic fibers have characteristics such as pleat retention, It refers to the overall characteristics of high strength/reinforcement, wrinkle resistance, durability, dimensional stability, washing resistance, and insect repellency. Of course, a small amount of other fibers may be mixed into the blended yarn or knitted fabric as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. A knitted fabric made using the blended yarn as described above is subjected to an appropriate finishing process as required, and then subjected to a fulling process. Preferred specific finishing processes are as follows. That is, as a finishing process, it is preferable to perform hot water shrinkage treatment under the following conditions before shrinking. The hot water treatment temperature is 60℃ or higher and 98℃ or lower, preferably 60℃
~90°C, most preferably in the range of 70°C to 90°C. Since this hot water treatment mainly causes contraction in the warp direction, it is desirable to use it under as low a tension as possible. Examples of the processing machine include a relaxer, a wince, and the like. Further, after drying, an intermediate setting is performed, and the temperature of the intermediate setting is preferably 150°C to 190°C. After that, it is subjected to a shrinking process. If the fiber shrinking process is performed without hot water treatment or intermediate setting, sharp wrinkles are likely to occur, which may impair commercial value. Furthermore, the step of performing greige setting in order to avoid such wrinkles is generally inappropriate because it may impair the high shrinkage performance of the synthetic short fibers. Preferably, after performing such hot water treatment and intermediate setting to shrink the fibers, the fibers are further subjected to finishing treatments such as napping, shearing, and steaming. Note that the shrinking process in the present invention is preferably carried out by the method and conditions generally used for wool, for example, in water at a temperature of 10 to 80°C, preferably 30 to 60°C, in the presence of a surfactant, the fabric is formed into small pores. This process involves rolling, pulling, and stretching the dough several times, essentially giving it the effect of kneading. According to the present invention as described above, synthetic fibers/
Even though animal hair blended yarn is used, it is possible to achieve extremely good shrinkage when producing milled-like knitted fabrics.In addition, by using synthetic fibers, it is possible to obtain 100% natural animal hair. A novel milled-like knitted fabric and a method for producing the same are provided, which can satisfactorily impart the characteristics of synthetic fibers, such as good pleatability, high strength, and durability, which cannot be obtained with conventional milled-like knitted fabrics. Hereinafter, the configuration and effects of the present invention will be specifically explained using Examples. Example 1 Modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 12 mol % of isophthalic acid was polymerized by a conventional method to form chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.505. After drying this chip under reduced pressure at 160℃, it is discharged from 300 holes with a diameter of 0.23mm, spun at 1200m/min, and converged to form 45
It was made into a tow of 10,000 denier. This tow is stretched at a temperature of 75
The stretched tow obtained by submerged stretching at 3.82 times the stretching ratio was dyed black. The dyeing conditions were 130°C x 60 minutes and a disperse dye was used. This tow is called "P-1". On the other hand, modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5 mol % of isophthalic acid was polymerized by a conventional method to form chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.500. After drying this chip at 160℃ under reduced pressure,
It is discharged from a hole and spun at 1500 m/min, and converged to form a tow of 450,000 denier. This tow was stretched in liquid at a stretching temperature of 75°C and a stretching ratio of 3.82 times, and the drawn tow obtained was dyed black using a disperse dye at 130°C for 60 minutes. This tow is called "P-2". In addition, a copolymer consisting of 93.64 mol% acrylonitrile, 6.0 mol% methyl acrylate, and 0.36 mol% sodium allylsulfonate was spun by normal wet spinning, bundled, stretched, washed with water, batch-set at 113°C with moist heat, and then towed. And so. The tow was dyed red using a cationic dye at 100° C. for 60 minutes. This tow is called "Ac-1". Each yarn-dyed tow was subjected to secondary stretching in a tow reactor manufactured by O-M Manufacturing Co., Ltd., and then cut to form a sliver. The shrinkage characteristics of the single fibers of the obtained sliver were evaluated and were as shown in Table 1.
【表】
一方、羊毛(メリノ64番)の未染色トツプをス
ライバとし、基本混紡率を合成繊維50%、羊毛50
%とし、P―1:50%と羊毛50%、P―2:50%
と羊毛:50%、P―2:30%とAc―1:20%と
羊毛:50%の3種組合せでNn2/52(Nn:メー
トル番手)の紡績糸とした。該紡績糸をカセ取り
し、90℃×5分で熱水処理をおこなつた。該処理
糸を光学的方法により表面層、中間層、中心層の
各断面での混紡率を観察した結果表2の通りであ
つた。[Table] On the other hand, the undyed top of wool (Merino No. 64) is used as a sliver, and the basic blending rate is 50% synthetic fiber and 50% wool.
%, P-1: 50% and wool 50%, P-2: 50%
A spun yarn of N n 2/52 (N n : metric count) was made with a combination of three types: P-2: 30%, Ac-1: 20%, and wool: 50%. The spun yarn was skeined and subjected to hot water treatment at 90°C for 5 minutes. Table 2 shows the results of observing the blending ratio in each cross section of the surface layer, intermediate layer, and center layer of the treated yarn using an optical method.
【表】
実験番号1の熱水処理後の糸表面色相は該紡績
糸生糸に比べ白色化しており未染色羊毛繊維が表
面層に集中化している。しかしながらP―1トウ
の紡糸、延伸性の不安定に起因する糸表面色相に
ムラが認められる。実験番号2の熱水処理後の糸
表面色相は前記実験番号1に比べ白色化傾向は小
さく、表面層への羊毛集中化程度が少ないことが
分る。しかしながら糸表面層の色相ムラはほとん
ど認められない。一方、本発明による実験番号3
は熱水処理後の糸表面色相はP―1/羊毛のそれ
と同程度で表面層への羊毛集中化がおこつてお
り、しかも色相ムラが認められず、良好な表面状
態を呈している。
実施例 2
イソフタル酸12モル%共重合した変性ポリエチ
レンテレフタレートを常法により重合して極限粘
度0.500のチツプにした。このチツプを160℃で減
圧乾燥した後、直径0.23mm―300ホールから吐出
して1200m/minで紡出し、これを収束して45万
デニールのトウとした。このトウを延伸温度75
℃、延伸倍率3.82倍で液中延伸して得た延伸トウ
を白黒1:1比率からなるビゴロ捺染をおこなつ
た。該トウを「PB―1」と呼称する。一方、イ
ソフタル酸を5モル%共重合した変性ポリエチレ
ンテレフタレートを常法により重合して極限粘度
0.500のチツプにした。このチツプを160℃で減圧
乾燥した後、直径0.23mm―300ホールから吐出し
て1500m/minで紡出し、これを収束して45万デ
ニールのトウとした。このトウを延伸温度75℃、
延伸倍率3.82倍で液中延伸して得た延伸トウを白
黒1:1比率からなるビゴロ捺染をおこなつた。
該トウを「PB―2」と呼称する。またアクリロ
ニトリル93.64モル%、アクリル酸メチル6.0モル
%、アリルスルホン酸ソーダ0.36モル%からなる
共重合体を通常の湿式紡糸で紡糸し、集束して延
伸後水洗し、湿熱113℃でバツチセツト後トウと
した。該トウを白黒1:1比率からなるビゴロ捺
染をおこなつた。該トウを「AcB―1」と呼称
する。各ビゴロ捺染を施したトウをオーエム製作
所製トウリアクターで2次延伸後ケン切し、スラ
イバとした。
一方、羊毛(メリノ64番)のビゴロ捺染したト
ツプをスライバとし、次の組合せで混紡しNn
2/52(Nn:メートル番手)の紡績糸とした。結
果は表3に示す。[Table] The surface hue of the yarn after hot water treatment in Experiment No. 1 was whiter than that of the spun raw silk, and undyed wool fibers were concentrated in the surface layer. However, unevenness is observed in the yarn surface hue due to unstable spinning and drawing properties of P-1 tow. It can be seen that the yarn surface hue after hot water treatment in Experiment No. 2 had a smaller tendency to whiten than in Experiment No. 1, and the degree of concentration of wool on the surface layer was small. However, almost no hue unevenness in the yarn surface layer is observed. On the other hand, experiment number 3 according to the present invention
The yarn surface hue after hot water treatment was comparable to that of P-1/wool, with wool concentrated on the surface layer, and no uneven hue was observed, presenting a good surface condition. Example 2 Modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 12 mol % of isophthalic acid was polymerized by a conventional method to form chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.500. After drying this chip under reduced pressure at 160°C, it was discharged from 300 holes with a diameter of 0.23 mm and spun at 1200 m/min, which was converged to form tow of 450,000 denier. This tow is stretched at a temperature of 75
The stretched tow obtained by submerged stretching at a stretching ratio of 3.82 times at 3.82° C. was subjected to Bigolo printing consisting of black and white at a ratio of 1:1. This tow is called "PB-1". On the other hand, modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5 mol% of isophthalic acid was polymerized by a conventional method to obtain an intrinsic viscosity.
I made it a 0.500 chip. After drying this chip under reduced pressure at 160°C, it was discharged from 300 holes with a diameter of 0.23 mm and spun at 1,500 m/min, which was converged to form tow of 450,000 denier. This tow is stretched at a temperature of 75°C.
The stretched tow obtained by submerged stretching at a stretching ratio of 3.82 times was subjected to Bigolo printing consisting of black and white at a ratio of 1:1.
This tow is called "PB-2". In addition, a copolymer consisting of 93.64 mol% of acrylonitrile, 6.0 mol% of methyl acrylate, and 0.36 mol% of sodium allylsulfonate was spun by normal wet spinning, bundled, stretched, washed with water, batch-set at 113°C under moist heat, and then towed. did. The tow was subjected to Bigolo printing consisting of black and white in a ratio of 1:1. This tow is called "AcB-1". Each tow subjected to Vigoro printing was subjected to secondary stretching in a tow reactor manufactured by OEM Seisakusho, and then cut into slivers. On the other hand, using the bigolo-printed top of wool (Merino No. 64) as a sliver, blend it with the following combination: N n
The spun yarn was 2/52 (N n : metric count). The results are shown in Table 3.
【表】【table】
【表】
該紡績糸を用いて2/2ツイルの織物を作成
し、該織物を40℃で洗絨処理を行ない、引続き90
℃で熱水リラツクス処理を行なつた。この時の生
機ベースの収縮率はそれぞれ次のとおりであつ
た。[Table] A 2/2 twill fabric was created using the spun yarn, and the fabric was washed at 40°C and then washed at 90°C.
Hydrothermal relaxation treatment was performed at ℃. The shrinkage rates of the gray fabric base at this time were as follows.
【表】
乾燥した後180℃で中間セツトを行ない、引続
き縮絨処理を60分間行なつた。縮絨後の収縮率は
それぞれ次のとおりであつた。[Table] After drying, an intermediate setting was performed at 180°C, followed by a shrinking process for 60 minutes. The shrinkage rates after shrinking were as follows.
【表】
次いで起毛処理を施し、剪毛し、蒸絨処理によ
り仕上加工を行なつた。このようにして得られた
各織物の表面は次のとおりで本発明による織物
(実験番号7)は、ほとんど羊毛で覆われたもの
であり、均一で見事なミルド調(フラノ調)で、
風合、外観ともに優れた織物であつた。
実験番号4…ほとんど羊毛で覆われミルド調外
観を呈してはいるが、不均一で品位的にやや劣つ
た。風合は良好であるが芯が認められ好ましくな
かつた。
実験番号5…縮絨の程度が悪く、ミルド調(フ
ラノ調)織物とはいいがたく好ましくなかつた。
実験番号6…水準4とほぼ同等の外観品位であ
り、風合的にも好ましかつた。
実験番号7…均一な縮絨で見事なミルド調(フ
ラノ調)外観を呈し、風合いも良好であつた。
実験番号8、9…実験番号7とほぼ同等なミル
ド調であつたが、縮絨性、風合の面で若干実験番
号7に劣つた。しかし商品的価値はあるものが得
られた。
本発明による実験番号6、7、8、9が、この
ような羊毛の被覆性に優れた均一な表面状態を呈
したのは、熱処理工程(リラツクス処理)での適
度な収縮による布帛表面への羊毛集中化ならびに
縮絨工程での羊毛を拘束しないような糸または布
帛構造となし得たことにより、羊毛の自由性が著
しく向上したためと思われる。[Table] Next, the hair was brushed, sheared, and finished by steaming. The surfaces of the fabrics thus obtained are as follows: The fabric according to the present invention (Experiment No. 7) was almost entirely covered with wool, and had a uniform and fine milled tone (furano tone).
The fabric was excellent in both texture and appearance. Experiment No. 4: Although it was almost covered with wool and had a milled appearance, it was uneven and the quality was slightly inferior. Although the texture was good, core was observed and was not desirable. Experiment No. 5: The degree of shrinkage was poor, and it could not be described as a milled-like (furano-like) fabric, which was not desirable. Experiment No. 6: Appearance quality was almost the same as level 4, and the texture was also favorable. Experiment No. 7: Uniform shrinkage, a splendid milled-like (furano-like) appearance, and a good texture. Experiment Nos. 8 and 9...Although the texture was almost the same as Experiment No. 7, it was slightly inferior to Experiment No. 7 in terms of shrinkage and texture. However, something with commercial value was obtained. The reason why Experiment Nos. 6, 7, 8, and 9 according to the present invention exhibited such a uniform surface condition with excellent wool coverage was due to the moderate shrinkage on the fabric surface during the heat treatment process (relaxation treatment). It is thought that this is because the flexibility of the wool has been significantly improved by concentrating the wool and creating a yarn or fabric structure that does not restrict the wool during the shrinking process.
Claims (1)
リロニトリル系合成繊維の短繊維B、及び獣毛が
混在している先染混紡紡績糸から構成されるミル
ド調編織物において、上記短繊維Aは熱水(100
℃)処理時の収縮率が5〜20%の中収縮能と30〜
300mg/dの収縮発現応力能を潜在的に保有し、ま
た短繊維Bは熱水(100℃)処理時の収縮率が10
〜30%の高収縮能と30〜300mg/dの収縮発現応
力能を潜在的に保有していると共に、上記短繊維
Aおよび短繊維Bの潜在収縮能と収縮発現応力能
が編織物の状態で顕在化されていることを特徴と
するミルド調編織物。 2 獣毛が羊毛であることを特徴とする特許請求
の範囲第1項記載のミルド調編織物。 3 第3成分として1.5〜20モル%の共重合成分
を含むポリエステルトウと、熱水(100℃)処理
を施すことによる収縮率が10〜30%、収縮発現応
力が30〜300mg/dの収縮能を有する共重合アクリ
ロニトリル系トウとを、トウ染色し、牽切して短
繊維化したのちに、該2成分の短繊維と獣毛とを
混紡し紡績糸とし、次いで編織物とし、しかる後
縮絨加工することを特徴とするミルド調編織物の
製造方法。 4 編織物とした後に60〜90℃で熱水収縮処理
し、150〜190℃で中間セツトし、しかる後縮絨加
工することを特徴とする特許請求の範囲第3項記
載のミルド調編織物の製造方法。 5 獣毛が羊毛であることを特徴とする特許請求
の範囲第3項記載のミルド調編織物の製造方法。[Scope of Claims] 1. A milled knitted fabric composed of yarn-dyed blended spun yarn in which short fibers A of polyester synthetic fibers, short fibers B of acrylonitrile synthetic fibers, and animal hair are mixed, the above-mentioned Short fiber A is heated in hot water (100
℃) Shrinkage rate during processing is medium shrinkage capacity of 5-20% and 30-30%
It has a potential shrinkage stress capacity of 300 mg/d, and short fiber B has a shrinkage rate of 10 when treated with hot water (100℃).
It potentially has a high contractile capacity of ~30% and a contraction stress capacity of 30 to 300 mg/d, and the potential contraction capacity and contraction stress capacity of the short fibers A and B are in the state of the knitted fabric. A milled-like knitted fabric that is characterized by its pronounced appearance. 2. The milled knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the animal hair is wool. 3 Polyester tow containing 1.5 to 20 mol% of a copolymer component as the third component and shrinkage with a shrinkage rate of 10 to 30% and a shrinkage stress of 30 to 300 mg/d by hot water (100°C) treatment. After dyeing the copolymerized acrylonitrile-based tow, which has the properties A method for producing a milled-like knitted fabric, which is characterized by performing a fulling process. 4. The milled knitted fabric according to claim 3, which is formed into a knitted fabric, subjected to hot water shrinkage treatment at 60 to 90°C, intermediate set at 150 to 190°C, and then subjected to crimp processing. manufacturing method. 5. The method for producing a milled knitted fabric according to claim 3, wherein the animal hair is wool.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP56133276A JPS5836239A (en) | 1981-08-27 | 1981-08-27 | Milled-like knitted fabric and production thereof |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP56133276A JPS5836239A (en) | 1981-08-27 | 1981-08-27 | Milled-like knitted fabric and production thereof |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPS5836239A JPS5836239A (en) | 1983-03-03 |
| JPS648097B2 true JPS648097B2 (en) | 1989-02-13 |
Family
ID=15100842
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP56133276A Granted JPS5836239A (en) | 1981-08-27 | 1981-08-27 | Milled-like knitted fabric and production thereof |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS5836239A (en) |
Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103726173A (en) * | 2013-11-19 | 2014-04-16 | 江苏博欧伦家纺有限公司 | Textile with high color fastness |
| CN105350157A (en) * | 2015-12-18 | 2016-02-24 | 常熟市爱尚纺织科技有限公司 | Flannel fabric |
| JP6581703B1 (en) * | 2018-08-24 | 2019-09-25 | 株式会社Itoi生活文化研究所 | Synthetic blended fabric and clothes |
-
1981
- 1981-08-27 JP JP56133276A patent/JPS5836239A/en active Granted
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPS5836239A (en) | 1983-03-03 |
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