JPH0121261B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a method for processing a fabric in which textured yarn is used as a weft, and more specifically, a process for imparting stretchability to a fabric in which a textured yarn is used as a weft. It is about the method.

[Conventional technology]

In textiles that use spun yarns as warp yarns and synthetic fiber filaments as weft yarns, the filaments are false twisted yarns (hereinafter simply referred to as textured yarns).
There is a growing desire to adopt
For example, there is a strong demand for fabrics with good stretch in the field of working wear, etc., and the use of processed yarns as wefts is increasing, and the overall demand for weft stretch fabrics is increasing. be. However, taking fabrics for working wear as an example, due to the long history in the cotton spinning industry, they are produced using specialized weaving and processing processes, and are a combination of spun yarn and processed yarn. There are various difficulties in producing such a complex product in a factory dedicated to cotton spinning.

In other words, the weft stretch property of a weft stretch fabric is given by subjecting the weft textured yarn fabric to a sufficient relaxation width-increasing process, and this process is the basic operation for imparting weft stretch property. However, there is no concept of relaxation width adjustment compared to conventional cotton fabric processing, and of course there is no equipment that can handle this. On the other hand, in the recent cotton processing process, technology that uses high-pressure steam has attracted attention for the purpose of uniformly scouring cotton fabric in a short time, and the high-pressure steamer (HPS)
More and more factories are introducing this type of scouring machine. This device evaporates cotton cloth soaked in an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 130-135°C, and this treatment produces a relaxing effect. Therefore, it is considered advisable to use an HPS scouring machine when performing the relaxation width addition process on weft stretch fabrics. FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the progress of width addition when using the HPS scouring machine, and the numbers shown in parentheses next to each process name are experimental data in Comparative Example 1 described later and indicate the width dimension. According to this, the width of the 195cm gray fabric has been increased to 161cm at the end of the preset (or more accurately, preheatset) stage, and the width increase rate is calculated to be 17.4%. However, in order to obtain the desired weft stretchability, it is necessary to increase the width to 155 cm, which corresponds to a width increase rate of 20.5%. That is, with the method shown in FIG. 4, it was not possible to reach the desired level of suitable width adjustment.

Therefore, a process as shown in FIG. 3 was adopted, and the purpose of width adjustment has been achieved to some extent, as shown in the width adjustment dimensions obtained in Comparative Example 2, which will be described later. However, with this method, batch processing is performed away from the line at the batch laxation stage, resulting in low productivity and high costs.The disadvantage of the batch method is that the massaging effect is stronger and fluffing is more likely to occur, causing wrinkles and pilling. The disadvantage is that this occurs.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

The present invention has been made with attention to the above circumstances, and by improving the continuous production method by effectively utilizing the aforementioned HPS, wrinkles and pilling do not occur while maintaining productivity. The object of the present invention is to provide a method that can provide good stretchability.

[Means for solving problems]

The gist of the present invention is that when relaxing a weft-textured yarn fabric in a spread state, before relaxing it with high-pressure steam, it is dried at a high temperature of 100°C or higher without applying tension at least in the width direction. exist.

[Effect]

As mentioned above, in the present invention, relaxation treatment using high pressure steam (hereinafter abbreviated as HPS relaxation)
Before drying, drying is performed without applying tension at least in the width direction (hereinafter referred to as free drying in the specification and drawings), and there are no limitations on the technical means itself for performing HPS relaxation. I don't accept it. Regarding free drying, there are limitations such that it must be carried out under no tension at least in the width direction and that it be heated to 130° C. or higher, but there are no practical limitations on other matters.

Figure 1 is a graph showing the width increase rate during each process after leaving the gray machine, and shows the free drying temperature after blanching (after preliminary relaxation) at 180°C.
The temperature was set at ℃ (○ mark), 130 ℃ (△ mark), and 60 ℃ (● mark), and further HPS treatment was performed. Note that the marks marked with an "X" were directly subjected to HPS treatment without free drying, and for convenience, the samples were passed through the free drying position.
It is represented by a dotted chain line. As a result of various studies based on these experimental data, we reached the conclusion that it is necessary to perform free drying before HPS treatment, and that the free drying temperature at that time should be 100°C or higher. In other words, if the drying temperature is lower than 100°C, a sufficient width-enhancing effect cannot be obtained.The more preferable drying temperature is 115°C or higher, and the even more preferable drying temperature is 130°C.
It was over ℃. As the drying temperature increases, the width increase rate improves, but if it exceeds 190℃, there is a problem that the width increase becomes excessive and the stretchability of the textured yarn is destroyed, so it is necessary to keep the drying temperature below 190℃. is recommended. In this free drying, it is desirable to dry with hot air until the moisture content becomes below the official moisture content.

〔Example〕

In the Examples and Comparative Examples shown below, experiments were conducted using the following conditions as common conditions.

Warp: Spun yarn made of polyester/cotton (65/35)...45/2'S Weft: S200T/polyester processed yarn 150d-30f
M twisted yarn structure: twill T90/inch W60/inch Grain width: 195cm Finished width: 153cm (width addition rate: 21.5%) Application: Weft stretch working wear Example 1 Processed using the process shown in Figure 2 , Width dimension changes as shown in the same figure were recorded. Preliminary relaxation was performed using an open soaper (80°C), and free drying was performed using a free shrinker (130°C x 1 minute).

In order to achieve a finished width of 153 cm, it was necessary to preset the width to 155 cm before dyeing, but by adopting this example, the objective was achieved. Dyed cloth is 15
% or more, and the cloth surface was free from defects such as pilling and wrinkles, and was able to be finished with a well-balanced and flat surface.

Comparative Example 1 Although the process shown in FIG. 4 was carried out, the width dimension after mercerization and drying was 161 cm, and it was not possible to finish it to 155 cm even with presetting.
Therefore, the stretchability of the fabric obtained was less than 15%.

Comparative Example 2 The process shown in Figure 3 was used to achieve the goal of just adding width, but the cost was high due to the use of the batch-relaxation method, and defects such as fluffing and wrinkles due to the strong massaging effect during relaxation occurred. was recognized.

〔Effect of the invention〕

Since the present invention is configured as described above, the following effects are exhibited.

(1) Sufficient width can be obtained and the finished fabric has high stretchability.

(2) Continuous processing is possible, which is advantageous in terms of cost and production speed.

(3) Can be processed in a fully expanded state, and no wrinkles will occur.

(4) There is no kneading effect, so there is little fuzz on the fabric surface.

(5) A uniform and flat finished surface can be obtained.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the difference in widening ratio depending on the presence or absence of free drying and temperature, FIG. 2 is a process diagram of an example of the present invention, and FIGS. 3 and 4 are process diagrams of a comparative example.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A weft stretch fabric characterized in that when relaxing a weft textured yarn fabric in an expanded state, before relaxing it with high-pressure steam, it is dried at a high temperature of 100°C or higher without applying tension at least in the width direction. processing method.