JPH0128136B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a kasuri-like silky yarn containing thick-and-thin yarn as one component, and a differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn suitable for obtaining particularly excellent drape effects. In the past, various attempts have been made to make polyester filament threads to approximate the texture of silk, and they have reached a high level of luster and fullness that gives them a silk-life feel.・Different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns using thin yarn as one component have also been proposed. In such a mixed yarn, a surface change is imparted by the thick-and-thin yarn, which is a yarn with a low shrinkage component, and fullness is imparted by the difference in shrinkage between the yarn and the yarn with a high shrinkage component. However, market demands are expanding endlessly,
Nowadays, there is a desire for a texture that surpasses that of silk, that is, super silk, and one of these is the increasing need for high-level drapability. By the way, if a yarn with a high boiling water shrinkage rate (hereinafter referred to as BWS) is used as the high shrinkage component yarn of the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, the crimp rate of the woven fabric can be reduced by subjecting it to boiling water shrinkage treatment in the finishing process after weaving. Theoretically, it has been elucidated that a high level of drapability can be obtained. However, in reality, when using high-shrinkage yarn with a BWS of 10% or more, conventional yarns are thermally unstable, which poses a huge problem in handling. In other words, the shrinkage rate of conventional high-shrinkage yarns with BWS ≥ 10% varies greatly depending on how they receive heat during the textile finishing process, especially during the differential shrinkage development (relaxation) process. There is a shrinkage difference between the part where the temperature rises to the voile and the part which reaches the voile a little later due to folding and overlapping of the fabric, resulting in relaxation spots. Furthermore, for twisted fabrics, it is necessary to lower the twisting torque by twist setting for ease of weaving handling, but this heat setting lowers the boiling water shrinkage rate of both low-shrinkage component yarns and high-shrinkage component yarns. In particular, the boiling water shrinkage rate of high-shrinkage component yarns is greatly reduced;
Even if it is possible to obtain fullness due to the difference in shrinkage, it is not possible to increase the crimp rate of the fabric, which depends on the shrinkage of the high shrinkage component yarn, and a high degree of drapability cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the boiling water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage component yarn used is increased to 10% or more, the above-mentioned relaxation spots will become even larger. In addition, because high-shrinkage component yarns have different boiling water shrinkage rates depending on how they receive heat, there is a problem that uneven setting occurs in the inner and outer layers of twisted set bobbin winding. It is mainly used for non-twisted or lightly twisted woven fabrics such as habutae, which do not require fixing. On the other hand, when producing medium-high twist fabrics that require a twist set such as voile and jersey, the outer layer and inner layer of the twist set bobbin are used separately, or the twist set temperature is lowered to reduce residual torque. Currently, weaving is carried out using various techniques such as using high-quality threads. In actual textile production, the BWS of high shrinkage component yarns is kept to at most 10% in order to avoid the above-mentioned handling problems, and only the bulge caused by the difference in shrinkage is used. An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems and to provide a differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn that is extremely easy to handle in post-processing and is suitable for obtaining a Kasuri-style fabric with particularly excellent drapability. While investigating the cause of the above-mentioned problem, the present inventors found that conventional high-shrinkage yarns are those in which undrawn yarns are stretched near their glass transition point and used without post-heat treatment. Therefore, we focused on the fact that although it is highly oriented, its crystallinity is low. In other words, when such yarn shrinks during the relaxation process of textile finishing, etc., it is accompanied by crystallization, so depending on the degree of application of small heat, the yarn undergoes partially different crystallization processes. As a result, shrinkage spots occur, and similarly, when setting the twist,
As a result of focusing on the point that boiling water shrinkage decreases and inner and outer layer unevenness occurs, we found that in the high boiling water shrinkage rate of 10% or more, the crystallinity is 35% or more (similar to low shrinkage yarn set by high temperature heat). The present invention was achieved by solving the above-mentioned problem by using as a high shrinkage component polyester yarn, which has not been used in the past. That is, the present invention is a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage, which is a mixture of multifilament yarns with different heat shrinkage rates, in which the low shrinkage component is thick-and-thin yarn, and the high shrinkage component yarn is (a) boiling water shrinkage rate. ≧10% (b) A blended yarn for kasuri-style fabrics having a drape texture characterized by being a polyester fiber that satisfies crystallinity ≧35%. The mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is characterized by its high shrinkage component filament yarn, which can be obtained as follows. That is, as the starting yarn, the birefringence △n is
0.035~0.08 (generally spinning speed 2800~4500m/min
Polyester fibers containing polyethylene terephthalate as the main repeating unit (suitably obtained by high-speed spinning of % or more, preferably 38% or more, then 140°C or less, preferably 115%
Low temperature stretching at a temperature below ℃. BWS obtained in this way ≥10%, crystallinity xρ
≧35%, or a polyester filament yarn with BWS≧12% and xρ≧38% obtained from spinning under the above-mentioned preferable condition range is blended as a high shrinkage component with a low shrinkage component yarn to obtain a desired differential shrinkage mixed fiber. Manufacture yarn. Here, if the BWS of the high shrinkage component yarn is less than 10%, although it is possible to obtain fullness based on the shrinkage difference, it is not possible to obtain high drapability based on the shrinkage rate itself of the high shrinkage component yarn. It is similar to thread,
Furthermore, if xρ is less than 35%, the above-mentioned problems during relaxation cannot be solved, and the same problems as conventional high shrinkage yarns with xρ≈20% occur. In addition, if anti-twist setting is required, the BWS may slightly decrease due to setting.
It is preferable that xρ≧12%, and xρ≧38% is preferable in order to be more perfect against problems caused by shrinkage spots during relaxation and BWS difference between the inner and outer layers of the bobbin due to twist setting. On the other hand, low-shrinkage component yarns, or thick-and-thin yarns, have a BWS that is superior to high-shrinkage component yarns because the shrinkage difference between them and high-shrinkage component yarns gives fullness to the fabric.
It is required to be at least 1% lower than BWS. In addition, when considering practical physical properties, the birefringence (△n) of the thick part is preferably 0.01 or more from the viewpoint of alkali loss resistance, and 0.08 or less from the viewpoint of the dark dyed Kasuri effect.
Further, Δn of the thin part is preferably 0.09 or more from the viewpoint of ensuring practical yarn physical properties. On the other hand, the polyester used as the high-shrinkage component yarn or low-shrinkage component yarn is a homopolymer made of polyethylene terephthalate, as well as a small amount of so-called third component such as aromatic or aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or glycol added thereto. Even something is fine. In the case of polyethylene terephthalate, the degree of polymerization of such polyester is preferably 0.55 to 0.7 in terms of the intrinsic viscosity [η] determined from the value measured in a 0-chlorophenol solution at 35°C. In the present invention, the high-shrinkage component yarn and the low-shrinkage component yarn may be appropriately combined with each other so as to have different shapes, different colors, and different lusters, and then subjected to the blending process. In this case, the weight ratio of high shrinkage component yarn and low shrinkage component yarn is 20.
It is necessary to have a ratio of ~80:80~20, and outside this range, flexibility, fullness, drapability, etc. cannot be satisfied at the same time. This blending process can be carried out by first opening the high-shrinkage component yarn and low-shrinkage component yarn using static electricity or liquid and then combining them, or by introducing them into the fluid disturbance area in a aligned state and mixing them. Any known fiber mixing method can be used, such as a fiber/interlacing method.
However, in consideration of productivity, thread handling (weavability), etc., interlace treatment is most preferable. As already described in Japanese Patent Publications No. 36-12230 and No. 37-1175, this technology involves aligning high-shrinkage component yarns and low-shrinkage component yarns, feeding them to a turbulent flow nozzle, and mixing them. It is something that is delicate. In this case, the standard for mixing fibers is determined by the so-called degree of interlacing, and it is usually sufficient to obtain an interlacing degree of about 5 strands/m to 80 strands/m. The total denier of the thus obtained mixed fiber yarn must be at least 30 de. If the total denier is less than 30 de, the yarn constituting the fabric may be insufficient in thickness or a sufficient number of filaments required for the mixed fiber yarn may not be secured. Next, the above-mentioned mixed fiber yarn is usually subjected to the weaving process without being subjected to shrinkage treatment, but in this case, it is only necessary to decide whether to use untwisted or twisted (additional twist) depending on the intended fabric. Furthermore, in terms of yarn usage, it can be used in various combinations of warp and weft in untwisted and/or additionally twisted states. In the subsequent scouring and finishing process, such fabrics undergo shrinkage treatment while immersed in hot water/boiling water (these are sometimes applied in the form of scouring baths or dye liquors), resulting in silk-like fabrics based on the difference in thermal shrinkage between the filaments. Due to the soft fullness and the shrinkage of the high shrinkage component yarn, the crimp of the fabric structure is increased and drapability is obtained. In this case, it is also advantageous to perform alkali treatment (reducing weight) in order to improve drapability, but in general, presetting is performed after the scouring fabric has sufficiently shrunk and the crimp rate has increased, and then alkali treatment is performed. By performing the treatment, preferable interfiber voids can be obtained, and as a result, the contact pressure between the warp and weft can be effectively felt. In addition, in the present invention, BWS, boiling water injection method boiling water shrinkage ratio, heating method boiling water shrinkage ratio, crystallinity degree (xρ)
was obtained by the following measurement method. (1) Boiling water shrinkage (BWS), boiling water injection method Boiling water shrinkage
After the separation, the product is air-dried and the skein length L' is measured and calculated as L-L'/L x 100 (%). In the text, when we simply say BWS, we are referring to BWS. (2) Boiling water shrinkage rate using heating method Immerse the sample in water at a temperature of 20°C, raise the temperature at a heating rate of 2.5°C/min, and after boiling, measure the boiling water shrinkage rate BWS using the boiling water shrinkage measurement method described above. I asked for it. (3) Crystallinity (xρ) using n-heptane-carbon tetrachloride density gradient tube
The specific gravity (ρ) is measured by a conventional method at 25°C, and the crystallinity (xρ) is calculated using the following formula. xρ=0.7491-1/ρ/0.06178×100 (%) Next, the reason why the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention is excellent for high drape fabrics will be explained. BWS accounts for 10% of blended yarns for high drape fabrics.
It is known that it is necessary to have a BWS of 10% or more, but with conventional differential shrinkage blend yarns using high orientation and low crystallinity systems, when blending yarns with a BWS of 10% or more,
As mentioned above, if you are not careful during the relaxation treatment and do not relax while gradually raising the temperature, shrinkage spots may occur and problems may occur.
The reason for this is thought to be that the effect of heat on the fabric during relaxation treatment is extremely large, whereas in the blended yarn of the present invention, the crystallization of the high shrinkage component yarn has already been promoted, so the effect is small. It will be done. In order to confirm this phenomenon, each yarn was treated using different typical boiling water treatment methods, and the difference in boiling water shrinkage rate BWS (%) was measured. In this experiment, the following two types of mixed fiber yarns were used. That is, a thick-and-thin 30de/24f polyester multifilament yarn with a BWS of 5.5% is used as the low-shrinkage component yarn, and the conventional type blended yarn I is a high-shrinkage component yarn with a BWS of 16.5% and xρ27% (spun). A filament yarn of △n0.08 spun at a speed of 4500 m/min and stretched 1.35 times at a room temperature of 30°C, with a round cross section of 30 de/12 f polyester multifilament yarn, mixed with an interlace degree of 50 ke/m. An example of the blended yarn of the present invention includes a high shrinkage component yarn with BWS of 15% and xρ of 39% (spinning speed of 3300 m/
Filament yarn of △n0.048 spun at min is 180
30de/12f polyester multifilament yarn with a round cross section of 30de/12f, which was heat treated at a fixed length at ℃ and then stretched 1.3 times at a temperature of 30℃, with an interlace degree of 50ke/
A mixed fiber of m was used. These mixed yarns were subjected to boiling water shrinkage treatment under different boiling water treatment conditions. That is, the boiling water injection method BWS and the temperature raising method BWS were measured using the above measurement method. The results were as shown in Table 1.

[Table] The BWS of the conventional type mixed yarn No. differs greatly depending on the boiling water treatment method, while the difference is slight for the mixed fiber yarn No. which is an example of the present invention. In the actual relaxation of textiles, intermediate treatment conditions of the boiling water treatment mentioned above are used, and the effects of heat on the textiles are more complex. It is understood that shrinkage spots occur in woven fabrics unless they are carefully relaxed, whereas shrinkage spots do not occur in the case of the mixed fiber yarn of the present invention because they are less affected by processing conditions. Next, we investigated the reduction in BWS due to the twist set of the twisted yarn. Using the above two types of mixed fiber yarn, the number of additional twists
Twist the yarn at 800T/m(s) and set the twist set at the temperature
This was carried out at 80° C. for 30 minutes, after which the BWS of the yarn was measured. The results are shown in Table 2.

[Table] What is noteworthy about these results is that for conventional type yarns, the BWS decreases by 10.4% due to twist-stop setting, and in this case, the BWS is as low as 6.2%, so even if the yarn is relaxed after weaving, the crimp rate increases. The drapability was insufficient. In addition, the BWS difference between the inner and outer layers of the twisted set bobbin was as high as 3.6%, which manifested as a difference in dyeing (dying stage different from the Kasuri effect) in the fabric. Generally, the difference between the inner and outer layers of BWS must be kept within 2.5% to allow for differences in dyeing. In this way, with conventional mixed fiber yarns, the BWS decreases due to the twist set, so it is necessary to use yarn with a high BWS, but this causes the problem that the difference in BWS between the inner and outer layers of the bobbin becomes even larger. is holding. On the other hand, with the blended yarn of the present invention, the decrease in BWS due to twist-stop setting is as low as 1.4%, and the BWS is maintained at more than 10% even after setting, so the crimp rate increases due to fiber-making relaxation, compared to the conventional blended yarn. A high drape fabric, which could not be obtained with yarn, was obtained. In addition, the BWS difference between the inner and outer layers of the bobbin is as small as 0.4%.
There was no difference in dyeing (dying level different from the kasuri effect). According to the blended yarn of the present invention, there is no need for special relaxation conditions or low-temperature twist sets that tend to cause weaving troubles, as described above, and it can be easily twisted in normal handling, which cannot be achieved with conventional blended yarns. It is possible to obtain fabrics with high drape properties that were previously unattainable. Example: Thick and Thin Bright 50d/36f polyester multifilament yarn with BWS 7% was used as the low shrinkage component yarn, and round cross section bright 30d/12f No. 1 to No. 11 shown in Table 3 were used as the high shrinkage component yarn. The fibers were mixed with an interlace degree of 60 strands/m, and each
It was made of 80d/48f different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn. The item of high shrinkage component yarn in Table 3 shows the high shrinkage component yarn that was produced by heat-treating and crystallizing it at a constant length using undrawn yarn at the spinning speed △n in the table, and then drawing it. So, the BWS and xρ of drawn yarn, that is, high shrinkage component yarn are listed. Note that No. 9 and No. 10 were simply stretched at room temperature without being crystallized by heat treatment. The section on blended yarn properties shows BWS and twist set (800T/m) of blended yarn.
The figure shows the BWS of the inner and outer layers of the bobbin (after additional twisting and setting at 80°C for 30 minutes). Fabric evaluation was conducted on lightly twisted fabrics and heavily twisted fabrics.
In other words, the soft twist fabric is 300T/m(s) for the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn.
With additional twisting, without heat setting, the warp is 130
Habutae was woven with a density of book/3.79cm and weft 126/3.79cm. In addition, high twist fabrics are made of different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns.
Additional twists of 2400T/m (s) and (z) were applied, and the twist was set at a temperature of 80°C for 30 minutes, with two (s) and (z) twisted alternately, warp 120/3.79cm, weft 115/ The jersey was woven at a density of 3.79 cm. In these finishing processes, the relaxation process that causes shrinkage is important in terms of texture, but the yarn of the present invention uses special conditions such as gradually and carefully raising the temperature from room temperature like conventional mixed fiber yarns. Since it is characterized by the ability to achieve uniform relaxation even without the use of water, we adopt a method of directly adding it to the boil bath.
%) was applied. The dyed finished fabrics were visually evaluated for relaxation spots, dye spots, and smudge effect, and the fullness and drapability were sensitively evaluated by touch.

【table】

[Table] No. 1 is a comparative example, with high BWS but xρ of 35
Since it is less than %, the difference in BWS between the input method and the heating method is large.
Also, when the twist is set, the inner and outer layers of the bobbin
The BWS difference increased, and as a result, relaxation spots and staining spots appeared. No. 2 is also a comparative example, and BWS
is less than 10%, resulting in poor drapability. No.3～No.
8 is an example of the present invention, where the BWS of the high shrinkage component is 10
% or more, and xρ is more than 35%, so there is no finish unevenness.
It had excellent drapability. Among them, satisfy BWS≧12% and xρ≧38% at the same time.
Nos. 5 to 7 were particularly excellent. No. 9 and No. 11 are comparative examples, and have a high BWS but a low xρ, so even though the drapability is good, the finish is uneven. No. 10 is also a comparative example and had the same problem as No. 1 because xρ was low.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage, which is a mixture of multifilament yarns with different heat shrinkage rates, in which the low shrinkage component is thick-and-thin yarn, and the high shrinkage component yarn is (a) boiling water. A blended yarn for kasuri-style fabrics having a drape texture characterized by being a polyester fiber that simultaneously satisfies shrinkage rate ≧10% and crystallinity ≧35%. 2. The mixed fiber yarn for Kasuri-style fabric according to claim 1, wherein the high shrinkage component yarn has (a) boiling water shrinkage rate ≧12% and (b) crystallinity ≧38%.