JPH0130935B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a polyester filament fabric having an elegant silk-like luster, and more particularly to a polyester filament fabric having an elegant silk-like luster while eliminating the glittering luster characteristic of synthetic fibers. Since polyester has physical properties similar to those of silk, progress has been made in the development of silky-like fabrics using polyester filament yarn. However, polyester filament fabrics have little change and are too smooth, so they are not satisfactory in both texture and feel as silk-like fabrics, making them difficult to use for clothing. It was used as a bulky yarn such as a false-twisted yarn to be woven. However, recently, with the development of different shrinkage blend yarn technology and weight loss processing technology using alkaline solutions, silkier and thinner fabrics have been developed for clothing, and their texture has reached an advanced level. However, the elegant luster of silk could not be obtained. As a means of expressing the luster of silk, so-called bright threads with a low content of matting agents were used, resulting in a glittering luster and a silky texture.
The so-called plastic feel was not improved. So-called semi-dull threads and full-dull threads containing a large amount of matting agent have been used as a means to eliminate the glare, but although the glare disappears, the luster becomes dull and different from the luster of silk.
In addition, methods have been used to eliminate glare by making the fiber cross-section multi-lobed, with five or more lobes, but in addition to being insufficiently effective, spinning operations are difficult, and problems such as streaks may occur due to differences in the degree of cross-sectional irregularity. It is also easy to become. In view of the above-mentioned drawbacks, the present inventors have studied polyester filament fabrics that have an elegant silk-like luster and eliminate the plastic-like sliminess, and have arrived at the present invention. That is, in the optical properties evaluated by the polarization method, the fabric of the present invention has a surface reflection component (M) containing kaolinite that is 50% or less of the total reflection component (R), and a transmission refraction reflection component. A polyester filament yarn in which the sum of (T) and internal reflection component (i) is 40% or more of the total reflection component (R), and the fiber surface of the filament yarn has a length/maximum width ratio. A polyester filament system having micropores with an average value of 3 or less and a strength of 2.0 g/d or more is used in a substantially untwisted state as the warp and/or weft yarn, and the yarn covers the entire fabric surface. It is a polyester filament fabric characterized by accounting for at least 55% of the polyester filament. Here, optical characteristics evaluated by polarization method will be explained. Figures 1 and 2 show model diagrams when fibers are irradiated with light. The light incident on the surface of the fiber 10 is separated into a surface reflection component (M) 1, a transmitted refraction component (T) 2, and an internal reflection component (i) 3, and the transmitted refraction component and the internal reflection component are Expresses the unique luster of fibers by absorbing specific wavelengths. These optical characteristics can be separated by using polarization characteristics and limiting the projection angle. Figure 3 shows an overview of the measuring device. For details, see "Glossy" by Hiroshi Hasunuma, published by Coronasha on September 10, 1960.
This is a modification of Ingersoll's gloss meter, which uses a polarizer for the emitter and receiver.
The center axis of the emitter 8, the center axis of the receiver 9, and the center of the rotary table 4 are in the same plane (projection/light receiving surface), and the top surface of the rotary table 4 is located perpendicular to the plane. is housed in a black box (not shown) to block light from the outside. Further, the light receiving voltage of the light receiver is communicated to an external recorder via an amplifier (not shown), and the light receiving intensity is displayed. The turntable 4 can be rotated from outside the blackbox and rotates 360° for one measurement. Polarizers 5 and 6 are attached to the ends of the light emitter 8 and the light receiver 9, and each polarization plane can be arbitrarily set parallel to or perpendicular to the light emitting and light receiving surfaces. Further, the upper surface of the turntable 4 is designed so that the light-receiving surface of the sample 7 remains constant regardless of the thickness of the sample 7, and is arranged to coincide with the intersection of the center axes of the emitter and receiver. In sample 7, the sample yarn to be measured is wound around matte black cardboard to a thickness of approximately 3 mm while maintaining a parallel state. Under the above conditions, six measurements shown in Table 1 are performed based on the relationship between the polarization planes of the emitter and light receiver with respect to the light emitter and receiver surfaces and the relationship with the yarn axis to be measured.

[Table] These have the same emission and reception angles θ ₁ and θ ₂ ,
When Brewster's condition (tan θ = n n: refractive index of the sample yarn to be measured) is satisfied, the reflected light has a surface reflection component (M), a transmitted refraction reflection component (T), an internal reflection component (i), and This method takes advantage of the fact that it can be separated into diffuse reflection components (Di), and the projection and reception angles θ ₁ and θ ₂ should be changed as appropriate depending on the refractive index (n) of each sample, but in the case of this measurement, θ ₁ = θ ₂ = 57.5°
(When n = 1.57). From these measurement results, each component can be determined from the output voltage (received light intensity) of the light receiving element shown in Table 1 using the following equation. Surface reflection component (M) = {(AB) + (DE)}/2 Transmission refraction reflection component (T) = {(BC) + (EF)}/2 Internal reflection component (i) = (FC)/2 Diffusion Reflected light component (Di) = C Totally reflected component (R) = M + T + i + Di The surface reflected component (M) is white light of the same quality as the incident light, and when this component increases, it becomes glaring and glossy like the reflected light from the glass surface. , an increase in the transmission refraction reflection component (T) and the internal reflection component (i) results in a jewel-like luster, so the quality of the luster can be determined from the relationship between the quantities of M and (T+i). The surface reflection component (M) mainly depends on the condition of the fiber surface and the refractive index of the fiber, and the transmission refraction reflection component (T) and the internal reflection component (i) depend on the refractive index of the fiber and the permeability inside the fiber (fiber (depending on the refractive index difference of particles existing inside the fiber) and the shape of the fiber surface. If the surface reflection component (M) exceeds 50%, the object of the present invention cannot be achieved because the surface reflection component (M) becomes glaring and the sum of the transmitted refraction reflection component (T) and the internal reflection component (i) becomes the total reflection component (R). On the other hand, when the amount is less than 40%, the luster becomes dull and the elegance of the luster disappears. That is, by reducing the surface reflection component as in the present invention (M/R≦50%) and at the same time suppressing the decrease in transparency inside the fiber (T+i/R≧40%),
It is possible to obtain a polyester filament with excellent gloss quality, which is free from glare and has a gem-like transparent shine. If M/R exceeds 50%, a glittery feeling will be exhibited, and if T+i/R is less than 40%, the jewel-like transparency will be poor and the desired luster will not be obtained. Furthermore, the M/R of silk is 14.3%, and the T+i/R is 37.9%.
Although there is no glare, the jewel-like transparency is inferior to that of the present invention. In order to achieve the above optical properties of the present invention, 10% of polyester fiber yarn containing a micropore forming agent (1.2-2.8wt%) was used.
By performing ~30% alkali weight loss treatment, the micropore forming agent dispersed near the fiber surface is selectively removed, and the entire fiber surface with micropores is reduced in alkali weight, resulting in a fiber with micropores throughout the fiber surface. By obtaining this, a glare-free polyester filament having the above-mentioned surface optical properties of M/R≦50 can be obtained. Furthermore, the average length/maximum width ratio of the micropores on the surface of the fibers must be 3 or less, and the micropores must be relatively round in length. If it exceeds 3, although the above optical properties are satisfied in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis, they are not satisfied in the direction of the fiber axis, causing glare and optical anisotropy.
It looks like Bastel, which is not desirable. On the other hand, if the scattering of transmitted light inside the fiber increases due to the micropore-forming agent remaining in the inner layer of the fiber after alkali weight loss treatment, the transparency of the fiber will decrease, and the desired jewel-like transparent shine will not be achieved. I can't. Therefore, kaolinite (n=1.56), which has a refractive index close to that of polyester fiber (n=1.537), may be used as the micropore-forming agent. That is, even if kaolinite exists in the inner layer of the fiber, scattering of transmitted light inside the fiber can be suppressed, and the polyester has a jewel-like transparency and has optical properties inside the fiber of T+i/R≧40%. A series filament is obtained. Therefore, in order to achieve the object of the present invention, a polyester filament yarn containing kaolinite is provided, and the fiber surface of the filament yarn has a length/length.
It is necessary to use a polyester filament yarn that has undergone alkali reduction treatment to create micropores with an average maximum width ratio of 3 or less and has optical properties of M/R≦50% and T+i/R≧40%. . For the measurement sample, take out the threads from the constituent fabric and carefully wrap them on matte black paper, keeping them in a parallel state, under enough tension to eliminate the weave crimp. In addition, when the yarn is twisted, the yarn axis and fiber axis do not match, so this optical property is not only impossible to measure using the above measurement method, but also loses its luster when visually determined.
It becomes dull. From this, the fabric of the present invention uses substantially non-twisted yarn for the warp and/or weft,
In addition, it is necessary to use the yarn so that it occupies 55% or more of the entire fabric surface. Here, "substantially no twist" refers to yarn with a number of twists of 500 twists or less per meter of yarn. If the ratio of non-twisted yarn with excellent gloss to the total fabric surface is less than 55%, the effect will be extremely poor and sufficient gloss effect will not be obtained.
It is better to account for more than %. Furthermore, the yarn constituting the polyester filament fabric of the present invention can be obtained by treating polyester fiber yarn containing a micropore forming agent with an alkaline solution.
The fiber surface has a large number of vertically long micropores in the fiber axis direction, and does not contain substantial matting agent or 0.05
% or less, the micropores have a maximum width frequency distribution within a range of 0.2 to 0.7 μm, and an average length/maximum width ratio of 3 or less. Yes, the number is on the fiber surface.
There are 10 to 30 of them ^per 100μm2, and their depth is 0.1μm or less in more than 60% of the total, and their strength is
It is preferable that it is 2.0 g/d or more. The width, number, and length of the micropores on the fiber surface were calculated by averaging the measured values of 100 or more measurements taken from scanning electron micrographs taken at a magnification of 5000 times. Further, the frequency distribution of the maximum width of the micropores was investigated by taking the frequency distribution of the maximum width of the micropores read from the above-mentioned microscopic photograph in units of 0.1 μm. In addition, the depth is determined by the fibers embedded in acrylic resin.
After cutting to a thickness of 4μ and eluting the acrylic resin with isoamyl acetate, take an electron micrograph at a magnification of 10,000 times or more, draw a tangent between adjacent convexities, and measure the distance between the tangent and the bottom of the concave portion. Further, the substantial matting agent refers to a pigment having a high refractive index (particularly 2 or more) such as titanium oxide. In addition, the strength is the value obtained by dividing the strength measured by Tensilon manufactured by Toyo Baldwin Co., Ltd. at a test length of 200 mm and a tensile speed of 200 mm/min by the denier of the thread. In addition, the maximum value of the frequency distribution of the maximum width of micropores is 0.2 μm.
It is necessary to fall within the range of ~0.7 μm. If the maximum value is less than 0.2 μm, the texture will be slimy and
The desired silk-like luster cannot be obtained, resulting in a glittering luster. Furthermore, if the maximum value exceeds 0.7 μm, the effect on the tactile sensation is halved, and especially when dyed in a light color, it appears whitish and has a so-called pastel-like luster. Also, if the depth of the micropores exceeds 40% of the total, the gloss will become dull and the silky shine will disappear, so it is necessary that at least 60% of the total have a depth of 0.1μm or less. It is. Moreover, it is preferable that the maximum depth is 0.4 μm or less. The presence of particles exceeding 0.4 μm not only emphasizes the pastel tone of the dyed product, but also reduces the strength of the yarn, resulting in a decrease in the practical performance of the fabric. In addition, the number of micropores on the fiber surface
It is necessary to have 10 to 30 particles per 100 μm ² , and if the number is less than 10, the tactile effect will be lost, a slimy feeling will appear, and the gloss will be undesirable as it will have a metallic-like glitter. On the other hand, if the number exceeds 30, the luster becomes dull and shifts from silk-like luster to cotton-like luster, making it impossible to achieve the purpose. Furthermore, if the strength of the fibers is less than 2 g/d, the strength of the fabric decreases, making it unsuitable for practical use. In particular, in the case of thin fabrics intended for silky fabrics, yarn strength is particularly important. The presence or absence of a matting agent is important in terms of guaranteeing the above-mentioned optical properties; if it is contained in an amount of 0.05% or more, the light transmittance in the fiber will decrease, making it impossible to obtain a high-grade and elegant luster.
% or less, more preferably not at all. Further, it is preferable to impart fiber length differences to the substantially untwisted yarn used in the fabric of the present invention by a differential shrinkage blending yarn method or the like in order to obtain a silkier texture. However, bulky yarns with crimps obtained by false twisting or the like are not preferred because they significantly impair optical properties. To determine the fiber length difference, after marking a certain length on a woven fabric, take out the yarn, separate the square filament yarns individually, measure the fiber length under a load of 0.1 g per filament denier, and calculate the maximum fiber length (l ₁ ). and the minimum fiber length (l ₂ ) using the following formula. Fiber length difference (%) = {(l ₁ − l ₂ )/l ₁ }×100 This fiber length difference must be within the range of 0.5 to 10%, and if it is less than 0.5%, the fabric bulk density is low;
Become paper-like. Furthermore, if the fiber length difference exceeds 10%, the fabric will have a loose texture, making it unsuitable for use as a silky fabric. Preferably 1.0-5%
It is good to be. Further, the total denier of the threads constituting the fabric of the present invention is preferably in the range of 30 denier to 100 denier, considering the use of the fabric.
In addition, the fiber cross section of the yarns constituting the fabric is not particularly limited, and may be either round or multilobal, but from the viewpoint of texture and touch, trilobal cross section is preferred. In the present invention, the term polyester refers to a polyester containing terephthalic acid or its ester-forming derivative as the carboxylic acid component and a glycol selected from ethylene glycol and 1,4-butanediol or its ester-forming derivative as the glycol component. do. A part of this dicarboxylic acid component may be replaced with, for example, a monoalkali metal salt of 5-sulfoisophthalic acid, isophthalic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, etc. Coloring inhibitors, catalysts, ether bond by-product inhibitors, antioxidants, flame retardants, etc. that are well known in the industry can be used as appropriate.
The present invention will be explained in detail below using Examples, but the Examples do not particularly limit the present invention. Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 3 1000 parts of dimethyl terephthalate, 530 parts of ethylene glycol, 0.33 parts of antimony trioxide, and 1.0 parts of triethylamine were charged into a transesterification can.
After that, ethylene glycol kaolinite (ASP-072 manufactured by Engel Hard) was used, 10% of coarse particles were removed by centrifugation, refractive index 1.56, average particle size 0.3 μm, 1 μm.
6wt% of particles larger than m, 1.5wt% of _TiO2 as an impurity in kaolin) Dispersion solution Dispersion liquid containing 180g of kaolinite per 1 ethylene glycol
198 parts of the reactor was added, and while the temperature was raised from 150°C to 210°C over 130 minutes, a transesterification reaction was carried out while distilling by-product methanol. The resulting product is 210
Transfer to a polycondensation can at ℃ and increase the internal temperature to 210℃~275℃ for 80 minutes.
Gradually reduce the pressure in the system to 0.1 mmHg while increasing the temperature to ℃.
Thereafter, a polycondensation reaction was carried out at 275° C. and 0.1 mmHg for about 40 minutes to obtain a polyester having a predetermined composition. The polyester was spun using an extrusion type spinning machine using a spinneret having 36 Y-shaped slit holes at a spinning temperature of
Spinning was performed at 290° C. and at a winding speed of 1300 m/min according to a conventional method. The obtained undrawn yarn was drawn in a conventional manner to obtain a drawn filament with a trilobal cross section of 50 denier/36 filament. The thus obtained polyester filament yarn was used as the warp and weft to weave a plain weave, and after normal scouring, it was temporarily set at 180°C.
50 g of NaOH aqueous solution at a temperature of 90°C.
After the alkali weight loss treatment was carried out for a treatment time such that the weight loss rate shown in the table was obtained, the fabric was finally set at 160°C to obtain a finished fabric. After depositing carbon and gold on the fabric, take a photograph of the side surface of the yarn at 5000x magnification using a scanning electron microscope, measure the maximum width, length, and number of micropores, and calculate the average of 100 measured values. Calculated. Also, take out the yarn from the fabric, embed it in acrylic resin, cut it into several pieces with a thickness of 4 μm, elute the acrylic resin with isoamyl acetate, and take a 10,000x photograph with an electron microscope using the same method as above. In addition, the photo can be viewed on a projector for 10 minutes.
The depth of the micropores was measured under double magnification. Further, the yarn strength of the yarn extracted from the fabric was measured using a Tensilon manufactured by Toyo Baldwin Co., Ltd. At the same time, threads from the fabric were extracted, and the threads were carefully wound in parallel onto a 4 cm square black paper with a thickness of about 1 mm so that the width was about 20 mm and the thickness on one side was about 3 mm, and the optical properties were measured. Additionally, 10 experienced judges sensually judged the texture and elasticity of the fabric. In addition, the fabric before the final set was treated with Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation's Dianix Green.3G-E.
After staining and reduction washing for 45 min at 130°C using %owf,
The color tone of the fabric was determined after drying and final setting at 160°C. The above measurement results and judgment results are shown in Table 2. Example 3 When polyester resin was polymerized and spun using the same method as in Example 1, the same amount of undrawn yarn was divided into two bobbins and wound up, and the two undrawn yarns were fed simultaneously to a hot roller. Stretching was carried out at a temperature of 85°C and a hot plate temperature of 150°C, and the thread path was separated using a guide pin so that one of the threads did not come into contact with the hot plate. Double the same yarn on the winding roller and 1
I wound it up as thread for a book. The filament yarn thus obtained had a shrinkage rate of 23% and 6%, and was a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage. This differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn was made into a woven fabric in the same manner as in Example 1, and after an alkali weight reduction treatment, the size of micropores, optical properties, and tactile sensation were measured and judged in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 2 Polyester obtained by polymerizing in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount of ethylene glycol kaolinite dispersion added to the reaction vessel was 297 parts and the amount of ethylene glycol added was 540 parts. The material was subjected to spinning, stretching, weaving, processing, and alkali weight reduction treatment in the same manner as in Example 1, and the micropore size, optical properties, and tactile sensation were measured and judged in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 4 In place of the kaolinite dispersion of ethylene glycol injected into the reaction vessel, titanium oxide manufactured by Fuji Titanium was used.
Add 60 parts of a 10wt% dispersion solution to the ethylene glycol of TA-300, and add the amount of ethylene glycol added.
The same method as in Example 1 was followed except that the number of copies was 670. The results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 5 Ethylene glycol dispersion of titanium oxide
The same method as in Comparative Example 4 was followed except that the amount of ethylene glycol used was 480 parts. Second result
Shown in the table. Comparative Example 6 The same method as in Example 1 was followed except that the amount of ethylene glycol kaolinite dispersion added to the reaction vessel was 99 parts, and the amount of ethylene glycol was 630 parts. The results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 7 The same method as in Example 1 was followed except that the amount of kaolinite dispersion of ethylene glycol charged into the reaction vessel was 396 parts, and the amount of ethylene glycol charged was 350 parts. The results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 8 The undrawn yarn obtained by the same method as in Example was stretched 2.2 times with a hot drawing roller, and the same method as in Example was followed. The results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 9 A plain weave was obtained by the same method as in Example 1 except that the ethylene glycol kaolinite dispersion solution was not added, and subjected to alkali weight reduction treatment. Thereafter, the surface was coated with a fluorine-based resin (Archigard AG710, manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.) using a pad and dry cure method. The results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Examples 10, 11 The polyester composition obtained by the same method as in Example 1 was mixed with polyethylene glycol (w20000, refractive index 1.467) at 0.8 wt% (Comparative Example 10) and 2.0 wt% (Comparative Example 11) based on the polyester. The mixture was kneaded and spun in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a finished fabric. The results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Examples 12, 13 Stretched filaments were obtained by the same method as in Example 1,
Next, twisting was performed with a twist coefficient of 10,000 (Comparative Example 12) and 21,000 (Comparative Example 13) in accordance with Example 1. The results are shown in Table 2. Comparative Example 14 Instead of a kaolinite dispersion solution of ethylene glycol, sodium alkylsulfonate (carbon number 8~
20, average carbon number 14) was changed to 10 parts, but the same method as in Example 1 was followed in all cases. The results are shown in Table 2.

【table】

[Table] As is clear from Table 2, the fabric of the present invention has a glitter-free luster with a gem-like transparency, and has a dry feel with excellent fabric durability, elasticity, and color. A certain fabric was obtained. Furthermore, depending on the amount of micropore-forming agent (number of micropores) and the level of reduction processing, the desired gloss retention and hue cannot be obtained (Comparative Examples 1, 2, 3, and 6). Furthermore, titanium oxide (Comparative Examples 4 and 5) and sodium alkylsulfonate (Comparative Example
15), the transparency inside the fibers decreases, making it impossible to obtain a jewel-like transparent shine. Especially those using sodium alkyl sulfonate,
Micropores were also distributed in the inner layer of the fibers, resulting in poor transparency. In addition, in those using polyethylene glycol (Comparative Examples 10 and 11), the shape of the micropores on the fiber surface became too long, resulting in anisotropy in optical properties and a pastel tone. Furthermore, although the twisted ones (Comparative Examples 12 and 13) satisfied the optical properties of the present invention, the overall light intensity decreased (both the numerator and denominator of M/R and T+i/R decreased). ), and the fabric as a whole was dull and the desired luster could not be obtained. Furthermore, there is a method of surface coating with a fluororesin (Comparative Example 9) as a method of obtaining the desired optical properties without adding a micropore-forming agent, but the durability of the gloss was poor.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a model diagram of reflected light viewed from the fiber cross-sectional direction, FIG. 2 is a model diagram of reflected light viewed from the fiber side direction, and FIG. 3 is a diagram showing an outline of the optical property measuring device. 1...Surface reflection component, 2...Transmission refraction reflection component, 3...Internal reflection component, 4...Rotary table,
5, 6...Polarizer, 7...Measurement sample, 8... Emitter, 9... Light receiver, 10... Fiber.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Surface reflection component (M) containing kaolinite
is 50% or less of the total reflection component (R), and the sum of the transmitted refraction reflection component (T) and the internal reflection component (i) is 40% or more of the total reflection component (R). Moreover, the fiber surface of the filament yarn has micropores with an average length/maximum width ratio of 3 or less, and has a strength of 2.0 g/
1. A polyester filament fabric characterized in that polyester filament yarn having a diameter of d or more is used in a substantially untwisted state as the warp and/or weft yarn, and the yarn occupies at least 55% of the entire fabric surface. 2. By treating polyester fiber yarn containing a micropore-forming agent with an alkaline solution, the fiber surface has a large number of vertically long micropores in the fiber axis direction and does not contain a substantial matting agent, or It is a polyester filament yarn containing 0.05% or less, and the micropores are such that (a) the maximum value of the frequency distribution of the maximum width is
Polyester filament yarn whose diameter is within the range of 0.2 to 0.7 μm, (b) the number is 10 to 30 per 100 μm ² of the fiber surface, and (c) the depth is 0.1 μm or less for 60% or more of the total. The polyester filament fabric according to claim 1, which is composed of: 3. The polyester filament fabric according to claims 1 and 2, wherein the polyester filament yarn has a total denier of 30 to 100 deniers, and the fibers constituting the yarn have a trilobal cross-section. 4. The polyester filament fabric according to claims 1, 2, and 3, wherein the polyester filament yarn has a fiber length difference of 0.5 to 10% in each yarn in the fabric. .