JPH0224935B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a specially processed yarn that has strong twist effects such as a delicate curly feel, drapability, weight, and elastic feel similar to a strong twist yarn, as well as a slub yarn-like design effect. More specifically, it is a yarn in which untwisted parts and overtwisted parts, which are focused and thinned in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, are formed alternately by applying an active unsteady operation to the yarn. There is virtually no untwisted part in the part where the twist direction changes from the untwisted part to the overtwisted part, while there is no untwisted part in the part where the twist direction changes from the overly untwisted part to the untwisted part. Highly twisted special processing that has a design effect in which the twisted bulky parts are irregularly spaced and have irregular lengths, and both the untwisted part and the overtwisted part have a low initial elastic modulus. It is about thread. Conventional techniques for forming untwisted portions in yarn include false twisting, in which the yarn is continuously turned in a false twisting device and the thermoplastic filament yarn being twisted is heated to a temperature above its softening point. A method that takes advantage of the processing method and the ambiguity of the melting temperature of acrylic filament yarn to melt a part of the filament through high-temperature false twisting and form an untwisted part (for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 52-70143
(Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 1983-1998), and methods for varying the twisting tension and untwisting tension during false twisting (for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No.
91018) etc. However, in all of these methods, the yarn is turned continuously without stopping the false twisting device, so the length of the untwisted portion of the resulting processed yarn is on the order of several millimeters to several centimeters. For this reason, when it is made into a fabric, it merely produces a marbling effect similar to uniform unevenness, but does not provide the slub yarn-like design effect that is the object of the present invention. In addition, since these conventional untwisted parts require high-temperature false twisting processing, the fibers harden and exhibit a higher initial elastic modulus than the supplied raw yarn, which results in drapability of the fabric. Also, it was not possible to impart a feeling of weight. On the other hand, as a technique for performing an active unsteady false twisting operation in the false twisting process to alternately form untwisted parts and overtwisted parts, Japanese Patent Publication No. 49-8414 and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 49-108353 Publication No. 51-49949,
It has been proposed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 53-61745. These yarn twisting techniques utilize the transient phenomenon of twist propagation, and depending on the yarn speed and the intermittent period of false twisting, the length of the untwisted part and the overly untwisted part is 1 to 2 m or more. It is possible to form alternatingly twisted yarns as many as above, but all of these conventional techniques have an untwisted part of considerable length, and the twist density of the untwisted part and the overtwisted part is low. Therefore, not only a high degree of strong twisting effect and an effect of reducing the initial elastic modulus could not be obtained, but also the design effect was poor. In order to improve the drawbacks of the conventional alternating twist yarn, the present inventors have grasped the phenomenon of alternating twist yarn formation in active unsteady false twisting operations and investigated the principle, and as a result, the conventional alternating twist forming means has a special By adding and combining various processing operations, we enhance the synergistic twisting effect and create strong twists with a strong twisting feel, drapability, weight, and elastic texture that were previously unobtainable. The present invention was achieved by successfully obtaining an alternately twisted yarn that has both the effect and the design effect of a slub yarn. That is, the present invention provides an untwisted portion having an average length of 500 mm or more and twisting in the false-twisting direction, and an over-untwisting portion having an average length of 500 mm or more and twisting in the false-untwisting direction. The yarn is formed alternately, and the untwisted portion and the excessively untwisted portion have a twist number distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn,
Regarding the twist number distribution, the untwisted part shows a chevron-shaped distribution curve, while the over-twisted part shows a trapezoidal distribution curve.
The average number of twists is 8000/√(T/M) or more, and there is virtually no untwisted part in the twist direction conversion part from the untwisted part to the overtwisted part, while the overtwisted part In the part where the twist direction changes from the untwisted part to the untwisted part, untwisted bulky parts exist at irregular intervals and lengths of 3 to 20% in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the untwisted part and the untwisted part Untwisting part is 40
This is a highly twisted specially processed yarn with a design effect characterized by an initial elastic modulus of g/d or less. Hereinafter, the specific content of the present invention will be explained in more detail. First, in the processed yarn of the present invention, there is substantially no untwisted part in the part where the twist direction changes from the untwisted part to the overly untwisted part; In the conversion part, untwisted bulky parts with a loose twisted yarn structure are present at irregular intervals and with irregular lengths. Here, the term "substantially no untwisted part" means that the part where the twisted yarn structure collapses due to the cancellation of the twists of the untwisted part and the excessively untwisted part and becomes a non-twisted state or a low twist number state is defined by the present invention. The term refers to the extent to which the intended high twist effect and design effect are not diminished. Specifically, the part with a twist number of 100T/M or less is less than 1 cm, and the part is less than 1% of the repeat length of the yarn. Tell me the case. In order to impart a high degree of strong twist effect and an excellent design effect to the fabric, it is important that the yarn has a high twist density, and that the focused and finely twisted part of the yarn has this high twist density. Untwisted bulky parts, which account for the majority of the yarn structure, are scattered in the longitudinal direction of the yarn in the form of slabs, and if there are many untwisted parts in the twist direction changing part, a high degree of strong twisting effect cannot be obtained. The fabric does not have a silky feel and is similar to bulky fabric. Therefore, the proportion of non-twisted bulky parts is at most 20%, preferably 15%.
It is as follows. On the other hand, if there is substantially no non-twisted portion in all of the twisting direction changing portions, a high degree of strong twisting effect can be obtained, but the design effect will be poor. Therefore, in order to obtain a good slab yarn-like design effect, the proportion of the non-twisted bulky portion needs to be 3% or more. However, in the processed yarn of the present invention, since the untwisted part and the overly untwisted part formed by the manufacturing method described later are not easily collapsed in the twisting direction change part from the untwisted part to the overly untwisted part, there is no untwisted part. On the other hand, in the part where the twist direction changes from the over-untwisted part to the untwisted part, there are loose untwisted bulky parts of the twisted yarn structure at irregular intervals like the slab part of a slub yarn. Moreover, the boundary between the bulky part and the twisted part is such that the non-twisted bulky part is conspicuously clear because high-density twists are inserted up to the bulky part. , it is possible to achieve both a high degree of strong twisting effect and an excellent design effect.
In addition, the untwisted bulky part may be present in all of the twisting direction changing parts from the over-untwisted part to the untwisted part, or may be partly present. FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of the processed yarn of the present invention.
, an over-untwisted part C having a twist in the false-twisting/untwisting direction, and an untwisted bulky part D existing between the over-untwisted part C and the following untwisted part A, The non-twisted portion B in the twisting direction conversion portion from the portion A to the subsequent over-twisted portion C is shown to be substantially non-existent. Next, both the untwisted portion and the overly untwisted portion of the processed yarn have an initial elastic modulus of 40 g/d or less. The drapability of knitted fabrics is related to the initial elastic modulus of the yarn used.In order to improve the drapability of the fabric, it is necessary to use yarn with a low initial elastic modulus. When it is 40 g/d or less, drapability can be imparted to the fabric.
Conventional alternately twisted yarns have not been able to reduce their initial elastic modulus to improve the drape properties of the fabric, but as will be described later, the processed yarn of the present invention has an initial elastic modulus of 50% or less of that of the supplied raw yarn, e.g. In the case of polyester filament yarn, it can be 30 g/d or less, and in the case of nylon filament yarn, it can be 20 g/d or less, and thus the processed yarn of the present invention can impart excellent drape properties to knitted fabrics. . FIG. 2 is a graph showing the relationship between the untwisted portion and overtwisted portion of the processed yarn of the present invention and the initial stress and elongation of the supplied raw yarn. The initial elastic modulus is expressed by the following formula () and corresponds to the initial tensile resistance (g/d) described in JIS L-1013. Initial modulus of elasticity (g/d) = P/(l'/l) x d...() Where, P: Load at elongation l' when the sample is pulled (g) d: Fineness of yarn (denier ) l: Sample length l': Amount of elongation when the sample is pulled The value obtained by dividing the The initial elastic modulus of the supplied yarn I shown in Figure 2 is 95g/
d [When the elongation is 3.16%, the stress is 3 g/d, ()
According to the formula, 3/(3.16/100) = 95 g/d], whereas the initial elastic modulus of the untwisted part B of the processed yarn of the present invention is 22 g/d [when the elongation is 13.5%, the stress is 3 g /d, and from formula (), 3/(13.5/100)=22g/
d], the initial elastic modulus of the over-twisted part C is 20 g/d [elongation
At 15.0%, the stress is 3 g/d, and from formula (), 3/(15.0/100) = 20 g/d], and it can be seen that the initial elastic modulus is low in both the untwisted part and the over-untwisted part. Next, the method and principle for manufacturing the specially processed yarn of the present invention will be explained. First, regarding the formation of the non-twisted part of conventional alternately twisted yarn, we will explain the case of false twisting by intermittent fluid twisting. By passing fluid through the nozzle and intermittently supplying fluid to the nozzle, the yarn is repeatedly turned and stopped, and the yarn is processed using the transient phenomenon of false twisting. In this case, an untwisted part is formed when the fluid stops, and an overtwisted part is formed when the fluid is supplied.
A non-twisted part B is formed between the untwisted part and the following over-untwisted part, and a non-twisted bulky part D is formed between the over-untwisted part and the following untwisted part. . The formation of the non-twisted portion B will be explained using FIG. 4. 1 in FIG. 4 shows a state in which the supply of fluid to the nozzle is stopped and an untwisted portion A is formed. Next, as shown in 2 in Fig. 4, when the supply of fluid to the nozzle is started, the untwisted portions A of the yarn in the untwisting zone begin to be untwisted sequentially from the vicinity of the nozzle. Part A is strongly twisted and firmly fixed, and this untwisting action is insufficient to over-untwist it.
This is because the untwisted portion A is only untwisted and becomes the untwisted portion B. 3 in Fig. 4 is the over-twisted part C after this.
FIG. Next, the formation of the non-twisted bulky portion D will be explained using FIG. 5. 1 in FIG. 5 shows a state in which fluid is supplied to the nozzle and an over-twisted portion C is formed. Next, as shown at 2 in Fig. 5, when the supply of fluid to the nozzle is stopped, the yarn in the untwisting zone centering on the twisting section near the nozzle is transferred to the over-twisting section C and the twisting zone. A certain yarn becomes an untwisted part A, but becomes an untwisted bulky part D because the torques of these twisted parts having different directions cancel out each other's twists. 3 in FIG. 5 is a diagram showing the formation of the untwisted portion A after this. If the non-twisted portion formed in this way exists over a considerable length of the yarn, it will significantly impede the strong twist effect, and it is difficult to have such an alternately twisted yarn have both a strong twist effect and a design effect. This required a technique that goes beyond the common sense of conventional alternately twisted yarns, which prevents the formation of non-twisted portions that reduce the strong twist effect, and actively creates portions that have a design effect. The present inventors have discovered that the non-twisted portion B significantly reduces the strong twist effect, and that the length of the non-twisted portion B is related to the distance between the delivery roller and the nozzle, and that changing the length is a manufacturing condition. Focusing on the fact that it is difficult to create a false twist, and that a design effect can be obtained by having the non-twisted bulky part D in the form of a slab, and that its length can be easily regulated, we carefully observed the transient phenomenon of false twisting and conducted various experiments. As a result of repeated experiments, it was discovered that by applying a special processing operation to the conventional technique, it was possible to obtain a specially processed yarn of the present invention that has both a strong twist effect and a design effect. That is, in order to manufacture the processed yarn of the present invention, for example, in a false twisting process using a nozzle, a roller having a variable speed function in conjunction with supply and stop of fluid to the nozzle is used as a supply roller, and first a predetermined If the yarn is threaded at a high overfeed rate of Twist. This state will be explained using FIG. 6. 1 in FIG. 6 shows a state in which the supply of fluid to the nozzle is stopped and an untwisted portion A is formed. Next, as shown at 2 in FIG. 6, fluid supply to the nozzle is started, and when the yarn is over-supplied, the ballooning in the untwisting zone causes the nozzle and delivery roller to move to the string vibration node. Since the untwisted part A in the untwisting zone vibrates as a part), the untwisted part A in the untwisting zone is not unraveled sequentially from the vicinity of the nozzle to the delivery roller part by the propagation of twist, but by the string vibration. The nearby untwisted part A is loosened and becomes easier to untwist, so that the twist of the yarn reaches the delivery roller all at once.
The untwisted portion A in the untwisted zone can also be made into an over-untwisted portion C, thus preventing the formation of the untwisted portion B. In this case, unlike a mechanical false-twisting spindle, a nozzle that sprays high-pressure fluid is used as the twisting device, so stable false-twisting is possible even when the variable speed roller speed is increased. As the overfeed rate increases, the amount of twist in the yarn increases, so the twist during twisting when fluid is supplied becomes double or quasi-double, which allows high-density twisting. The number of twists can be left in the yarn. Therefore, the non-twisted bulky portion described below can exhibit a remarkable design effect because high-density twist is inserted up to that point. Also, the twist state during this twisting is 2
Heavy twisting or semi-double twisting has the advantage that the length of the yarn after untwisting is significantly longer than that of normal false twisting, which increases the ballooning of the yarn during twisting. be. Furthermore, since the processed yarn obtained in this way has a high number of twists, the elongation stress component changes to shear slip stress during elongation, and a high elongation strain is exhibited with respect to the initial low stress. The initial elastic modulus can be significantly reduced to 50% or less of that of the supplied yarn. In this way, it is possible to leave a high number of twists in the yarn, eliminate the formation of a non-twisted part B at the part where the twist direction changes from an untwisted part to an overtwisted part, and reduce the initial elastic modulus of the processed yarn. It can be reduced to 40g/d or less. After the fluid is supplied to the nozzle as described above, the fluid supply is then stopped, and at the same time the fluid supply is stopped, the speed of the variable speed roller is reduced. In this way, the thread that has been running at a high overfeed rate becomes slack due to the stoppage of twisting of the thread, and is prevented from becoming unable to run due to winding around the rollers or the like. Then, the yarn in which the over-untwisted portion C was formed when the fluid was supplied will form an untwisted portion A when the fluid is stopped, and the untwisting torque of the over-untwisted portion C causes the over-untwisted portion C to be formed. This offsets the twist of the subsequent untwisted portion A. The non-twisted bulky portion D is formed by this canceling effect. In this case, if the heat setting of the untwisted part A is too sufficient, the twist of the overtwisted part C and the untwisted part A cannot be canceled out depending on the overuntwisting torque, so the heat setting temperature is normal. It is preferable to set the temperature at a temperature equal to or lower than that for false twisting. The length of the non-twisted bulky part D formed in this way depends on the processing conditions, namely the time for supplying fluid to the nozzle (referred to as ON time), the time for stopping the supply of fluid to the nozzle (referred to as OFF time), Period (ON time and
The ratio of ON time to OFF time, yarn speed, length of twisting zone, length of untwisting zone, etc. is determined by the ratio of ON time to OFF time, yarn speed, length of twisting zone, length of untwisting zone, etc. The smaller the ratio to time, the shorter the period, or the larger the yarn speed, the longer the length of the non-twisted bulky portion D becomes. Although there are still many points that are unclear regarding the relationship between the length of the non-twisted bulky part D and the above processing conditions,
Since the ON time, OFF time, period, and the ratio of ON time to OFF time change, the magnitude of the untwisting torque in the over-untwisted part and the twist density in the untwisted part change the ease of untwisting. For this reason, it is thought that the distance at which the over-untwisted portion and the untwisted portion cancel each other out changes. The following table shows an example of the relationship between the ON time and OFF time for supplying compressed air to the nozzle for producing the processed yarn of the present invention, and shows the relationship between the ON time and OFF time for the non-twisted bulky part D depending on the combination of ON time and OFF time. The range in which this occurs is indicated by an x mark, and the range in which it does not appear is indicated by an ○ mark.

[Table] Note: ○: Non-twisted bulky part (D) is less than 1cm
×: Non-twisted bulky part (D) is 1 cm or more The above processing uses polyester 75d/48f x polyester 50d/24f (black dope-dyed yarn) as the supplied yarn, an electromagnetic tensor as the variable speed feed device, and a delivery roller. Speed 68.5m/min, heater temperature 190℃, winding overfeed rate 2.6%,
The test was carried out under the conditions of an air pressure of 4 kg/cm ² and by changing the ON and OFF times for supplying compressed air. As mentioned above, the length of the non-twisted bulky part D is related to the processing conditions, so for example, by using a random pulse generator and operating the fluid supply valve to supply and stop the fluid, Thus, there is substantially no untwisted part in the part where the twist direction changes from the untwisted part to the overtwisted part, and the untwisted part D is changed from the overtwisted part to the untwisted part. There is an untwisted bulky part in the part where the twist direction changes to the twisted part, and the initial elastic modulus of the untwisted part and the overtwisted part is
A processed yarn of the present invention having a weight of 40 g/d or less can be obtained. The nozzle used for manufacturing the above-mentioned processed yarn of the present invention may be any one that has the function of twisting the yarn by turning the yarn at high speed, and is capable of directing a fluid flow around the inner periphery of the cylindrical yarn passage. Any combination of one or more fluid conduits arranged in such a way that they are oriented substantially in the tangential direction with respect to the inner periphery of the thread passage. But that's fine. The fluid conduit may also lie in a plane substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the yarn passageway, or be inclined from the perpendicular plane so as to impart an advancing action to the yarn. preferable. In addition, in the false twisting process using a nozzle, the processed yarn of the present invention uses a passive yarn feeding device (hereinafter referred to as a feeder) that is rotated by the running tension of the yarn as a yarn feeding device to supply fluid to the nozzle. It can also be manufactured by linking the opening and closing of the fluid supply valve and changes in the load on the feeder using electrical signals so that a low load is applied when supplying the fluid and a high load is applied when the fluid supply is stopped. That is, in this case, the yarn is first run at a predetermined high overfeed rate, and at the same time as fluid is supplied to the nozzle, the load on the feeder is lightened so that the yarn in the untwisting zone turns with ballooning. Make it.
Ballooning in this untwisting zone causes the nozzle and delivery roller to vibrate as nodes of string vibration, which loosens the untwisted parts near the delivery roller and makes it easier to untwist the yarn. The rotation reaches the delivery roller all at once and forms an over-twisted portion, thereby preventing the formation of a non-twisted portion B. In addition, in this case, the yarn in the twisting zone is different from the normal twisted yarn state, forming a double twist or a quasi-double twist, so the resulting alternately twisted yarn has a high twist density, and its initial elasticity The rate will be reduced to 50% or less of that of the supplied yarn. Next, at the same time as the supply of fluid to the nozzle is stopped, the load on the feeder is changed to a high load to prevent the thread from becoming unable to travel due to an extreme drop in tension due to the stoppage of yarn twisting. Then, the thread in which an over-untwisted part was formed when the fluid was supplied will form an untwisted part when the fluid stops, and the untwisting torque of this over-untwisted part will cause the yarn to become untwisted following the over-untwisted part. A non-twisted bulky portion D is formed by offsetting the heat of the untwisted portion. In this case, if the untwisted part is heat-set too much, the torque of the over-untwisted part will not be able to cancel out the twists of the over-untwisted part and the untwisted part, so the heat-setting temperature will be lower than the normal one. As described above, the temperature is set at a temperature equal to or lower than that for false twisting. The length of the non-twisted bulky part D formed in this way is determined by processing conditions such as ON time, OFF time, ON-OFF time period, ratio of ON time to OFF time, yarn speed, length of twisting zone, The untwisting zone is determined by the length of the untwisting zone, etc., as described above, and in this case, the smaller the ratio of ON time to OFF time, the shorter the period, and As the yarn speed increases, the length of the bulky crimped portion D increases. Therefore, by using, for example, a random pulse generator and controlling the supply and stop of fluid with a fluid supply valve, the non-twisted bulky portions D can be formed at appropriate intervals and with an appropriate length. Thus, the processed yarn of the present invention can also be obtained by the above processing operations. It goes without saying that the method for producing the processed yarn of the present invention is not limited to the above method. The processed yarn of the present invention obtained by the specific processing operations as described above exhibits a characteristic twist number distribution in the untwisted portion and the excessively untwisted portion. That is, usually
The maximum number of twists in the untwisted part and the overtwisted part differs depending on the time to form the bicombustion part, but in the processed yarn of the present invention, the maximum number of twists in the untwisted part and the overtwisted part differs depending on the time for yarn twisting due to fluid supply and when the fluid supply is stopped. Even if the time for stopping yarn twisting is the same, the maximum number of twists in the untwisted part is the same as shown in Figure 3.
T ₁ Max (when fluid supply is stopped) is always larger (T ₁ Max>T ₂ Max) than the maximum number of twists T ₂ Max (when fluid is supplied) in the over-twisted portion. Here, the maximum number of twists is 1 cm of yarn alternately twisted along the longitudinal direction of the yarn.
The number of twists per meter is measured using a twister or microscope, and is converted into the number of twists per meter. The reason for this is that even if the fluid supply time and the fluid supply stop time are equal, the actual amount of yarn fed is greater when the over-untwisted section is formed, so the yarn length at the over-untwisted section is longer;
In addition, when fluid is supplied, the untwisted part in the untwisting zone is made into an over-untwisted part all at once, so the over-untwisted part becomes longer, so the average number of twists per unit length of the over-untwisted part becomes untwisted. This is because the amount is smaller than that in the untwisted part. Further, as shown in FIG. 3, the twist number distribution is shaped like a mountain-shaped distribution curve in the untwisted portion, while a trapezoidal distribution curve in the over-twisted portion. That is, in the untwisted part, the yarn twisted during fluid supply passes through the nozzle without being untwisted when the fluid supply is stopped, while in the overly untwisted part, the thread is formed during fluid supply,
Heat fixed in the twisting zone, and in the untwisting zone.
Over-untwisting occurs beyond the twisting in the twisting zone. Therefore, theoretically, both the untwisted part and the overtwisted part should exhibit a mountain-shaped distribution curve with the maximum value expressed by an exponential function, but in the case of the processed yarn of the present invention, the special The untwisting situation when fluid is supplied for processing operations is different from the above case, and the shape of the twist number distribution in the over-untwisted portion is trapezoidal. The twist density of the untwisted part and the overtwisted part of the processed yarn of the present invention must be 8000/√(T/M) in order for the effect of twisting to significantly affect the texture.
(D; Fineness) or more is required. The length of both twisted portions depends on the average length of the non-twisted bulky portion D, but approximately 500 to 2000 mm is effective from the viewpoint of strong twisting effect, and the proportion of the non-twisted bulky portion D is preferably 20% or less. is 3-15%. Note that the average number of twists referred to herein is the number of twists distributed in each twisted portion, measured using a twister or a microscope, averaged, and converted into the number of twists per 1 m. The thermoplastic synthetic fibers in the processed yarn of the present invention include synthetic fibers obtained from polymers such as polyester and polyamide, and copolymers and blend polymers thereof. As described above, the textured yarn of the present invention has the above-mentioned structure by applying a specific processing operation to the conventional false twisting process, and therefore has the following unique effects. That is, the processed yarn of the present invention has untwisted parts and overtwisted parts with a high twist density that are on the order of meters, and has bulky parts of several cm to tens of cm at irregular intervals, and Since the fibers are of irregular length, the bulky portions stand out and are highly twisted, providing a high degree of smoothness and excellent design effects. In addition, in the processed yarn of the present invention, there is substantially no untwisted part in the twist direction changing part other than the untwisted bulky part, and the yarn is thinned and focused due to the high twist density of the untwisted part and the overtwisted part. Because of this, the apparent thickness of the fabric becomes thinner, giving it a sense of weight. Furthermore, since the processed yarn of the present invention has a low initial elastic modulus of 40 g/d or less in the untwisted portion and the overtwisted portion, drapability can be imparted to the resulting woven or knitted fabric. Moreover, this low initial elastic modulus, together with the high density of the twisted portions, makes it possible to obtain a fabric with good flexibility and elasticity. Furthermore, since the processed yarn of the present invention is highly twisted, the yarns in the woven or knitted fabric do not become flat, and the contact area at the intersecting points of the yarns in the woven or knitted fabric becomes small. It has features such as easy sliding and drapability, and by using the processed yarn of the present invention, a strong twist effect similar to that of a strong twist yarn and a slub yarn-like design that could not be obtained with conventional alternately twisted yarns can be obtained. A woven or knitted fabric having effects can be obtained. The present invention will be explained below using examples. Example 1 Polyester filament 150d/72f (circular cross-sectional shape, semi-dull yarn, initial elastic modulus 96 g/d) was
The yarn was fed to the processing steps shown in the figure and processed under the processing conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain processed yarns shown in Table 2.

【table】

[Table] The length of the untwisted bulky part of the obtained processed yarn is up to 14
cm, and the minimum length was 2 cm, and the non-twisted portions existed only as twisting direction change points, and no substantial length was observed. This processed yarn is woven at a warp density of 90/inches and a weft density of 58 threads/inches, using two warps alternately, and this fabric is subjected to a normal polyester alkali weight loss process (19% weight loss), dyed and finished. As a result, the non-twisted bulky portion intersects with the warp and warp, and the fabric surface condition resembles that of a slub yarn.
Delicate silkiness and drapability similar to highly twisted yarn,
A woven fabric with excellent texture and weight and elasticity was obtained. Example 2 A yarn feeding device capable of electromagnetically varying the load of polyester filament 75d/48f (triangular cross-sectional shape, bright yarn, initial elastic modulus 90 g/d), a first heater,
The nozzle is supplied to a processing step consisting of a first delivery roller, a second heater that performs relaxation heat treatment, a second delivery roller, and a winding device, and is processed with a processed bar as shown in Table 3. A processed yarn as shown in the table was obtained.

【table】

【table】

[Table] The length of the untwisted bulky part of the obtained processed yarn is up to 14
They were present at irregular intervals with various lengths of a minimum of 1 cm, and the non-twisted portions existed only as twisting direction change points, and no substantial length was observed. When this processed yarn was knitted into a jersey texture using 36 gauge single knits, dyed and finished, untwisted bulky parts were scattered throughout the knitted fabric, giving it an appearance similar to that of a slub yarn, as well as a delicate texture. A knitted fabric with a texture having an excellent strong twist effect with a silky feel, drapability, weight, and elasticity was obtained.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Fig. 1 is a schematic side view of the processed yarn of the present invention;
The figure is a graph showing the relationship between the initial stress and elongation of the untwisted part, overtwisted part, and supplied raw yarn of the processed yarn of the present invention, and Figure 3 is an explanatory diagram showing the twist number distribution of the processed yarn of the present invention. be. In addition, FIGS. 4 and 5 show a non-twisted part B and a non-twisted bulky part D when the yarn supply speed is not variable.
FIG. 6 is an explanatory diagram for manufacturing the processed yarn of the present invention by varying the yarn feeding speed. A...untwisted part, B...untwisted part in the part where the twisting direction changes from the untwisted part to the overtwisted part, C...overtwisted part, D...bulky part, T ₁ Max... Maximum number of twists in the untwisted part, T ₂ Max... Maximum number of twists in the over-twisted part.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Untwisted parts with an average length of 500 mm or more and twists in the false-twisting direction and over-untwisted parts with an average length of 500 mm or more and twists in the false-untwisting direction are alternately formed. In the yarn, the untwisted part and the overtwisted part have a twist number distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The untwisted part shows a trapezoidal distribution curve, and the average number of twists is
8000/√(T/M) or more, and there is virtually no untwisted part in the twisting direction conversion part from the untwisted part to the overtwisted part, while In the part where the twist direction is changed to the part, untwisted bulky parts exist at irregular intervals and lengths in the longitudinal direction of the yarn by 3 to 20%, and the untwisted part and the overtwisted part have a weight of 40 g. A highly twisted specially processed yarn having a design effect characterized by an initial elastic modulus of /d or less.