JPH0238702B2 - HORIESUTERUFUANSHIIYAAN - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a novel fancy yarn having deep color dyeing properties with excellent shading effects in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

Many polyester false-twisted yarns having dyeability in shades in the longitudinal direction of the yarn have been proposed in the past, for example, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 41-6615, Japanese Patent Publication No. 43-19627, and the like.

However, most of these yarns are obtained by stretching undrawn yarns at a stretching ratio within the natural stretching ratio to generate local uneven orientation.
These yarns have thick and thin spots along their longitudinal direction, and the thick parts that are dyeable in dark colors are so-called undrawn yarns, and the cross section of the filament is flattened, while the thin parts that are dyeable in light colors are so-called undrawn yarns. It is a drawn yarn, and its filament cross section has a yarn structure that is not flattened.

Therefore, in these false-twisted yarns that are dyeable in deep colors, the filament section is flattened in the yarn part that is dyeable in dark colors (hereinafter referred to as the dyeable part in dark colors), so it is difficult to absorb light. Due to the reflection effect, dark tones become cloudy, while the filament section of the filament that can be dyed in light colors (hereinafter referred to as the light dyeable part) is not flattened, resulting in a deeper color tone. It has the disadvantage that the shading effect cancels out.

In addition, in the conventional false-twisted yarn having uneven dyeing of light and shade obtained as described above, it is not only extremely difficult to change the ratio and length of the dark dyeable part and the light dyeable part as appropriate; When knitting or weaving these false-twisted yarns into fabrics, there is a drawback that the dark dyeable portion is thick and the thick portion gets caught on yarn guides and the like, causing problems such as poor unraveling and fluffing.

Furthermore, since the dark dyeable portion is undrawn yarn, the undrawn portion becomes brittle due to heating during false twisting of yarn or dyeing of fabric, resulting in poor strength, abrasion resistance, etc. This has the disadvantage of being a practical hindrance.

The present invention solves the drawbacks of conventional false twisted yarns having uneven dyeing, and aims not only to ensure stable production in terms of the manufacturing process, but also to improve operational efficiency during fabric production, knitting and weaving. Fancy yarn has a novel thread structure that has good properties, does not become brittle during processing, has excellent shading properties, and has a smudge-like appearance on the dark colored areas on the fabric surface. The purpose is to provide yarn.

That is, the present invention provides a crimped yarn created by twisting and straining a polyester multifilament that has dark and light dyeability in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and has a yarn portion that is dyeable in a light color and a yarn portion that is dyeable in a dark color. The cross-sectional shape of most of the filaments constituting the thread portion that is dyeable in light colors is substantially the same as that of A fancy yarn characterized in that there is almost no flattening in the cross-sectional shape of the section, and the average length of the yarn portions that are dyeable in light colors is longer than the average length of the yarn portions that are dyeable in dark colors. It is.

The fancy yarn of the present invention will be further explained below.

The fancy yarn of the present invention is a crimped yarn created by twisting and straining polyester filaments that have a dyeability of light and shade in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the thickness of the light color dyeable portion and the dark color dyeable portion are substantially equal. It is something.

Here, the fact that the thickness of the light-colored dyeable part and the dark-colored dyeable part are substantially equal means that both the dyeable parts are threads drawn in the same way, and the light-colored dyeable part and the dark-colored dyeable part are threads that are drawn in the same way. This means that the difference in fineness is within 20%.

FIG. 1 shows an example of such a fancy yarn of the present invention, in which FIG. 1L shows a light color dyeable part and FIG. 1D shows a dark color dyeable part. As described above, since the fancy yarn of the present invention is a crimped yarn created by twisting and straining polyester multifilament, it has excellent wash-and-wear properties and bulky properties. The thickness is substantially the same as that of the dark dyeable part D, and there are no thick and fine irregularities in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, unlike the previously mentioned false twisted yarn with dark and light dyeability. There are no obstacles.

In addition, in the fancy yarn of the present invention, the cross-sectional shape of most of the filaments constituting the light-colored dyeable portion is significantly flattened, while the cross-sectional shape of most of the filaments constituting the dark-colored dyeable portion is hardly flattened. What is it?

Fig. 2 shows an example of the cross section of the fancy yarn of the present invention, Fig. 2a shows the cross-sectional shape of the filament constituting the light-colored dyeable part, and Fig. 2b shows the cross-sectional shape of the filament forming the dark-colored dyeable part. It is the shape.

In conventional false-twisted yarns that are dyeable in light and shade in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the cross section of the filament that makes up the dark color dyeable part is flattened, and the cross section of the filament that makes up the light color dyeable part is not flattened. In contrast, in the fancy yarn of the present invention, the cross section of the filament constituting the light color dyeable portion is flattened, and the cross section of the filament constituting the dark color dyeable portion is not flattened.

As described above, in the fancy yarn of the present invention, unlike conventional false twisted yarns, the cross section of the filament constituting the dark dyeable portion is not flattened, so the dark color tone becomes cloudy due to the light reflection effect. On the other hand, since the cross-section of the filament that makes up the light-colored dyeable section is flatter than that of conventional false-twisted yarn, the light-colored effect is promoted by the light reflection effect. This has the advantage that the synergistic effect of both increases the shading effect compared to conventional false-twisted yarns.

Furthermore, in the fancy yarn of the present invention, the average length of the light color dyeable portion is longer than the average length of the dark color dyeable portion. Therefore, when the fancy yarn of the present invention is made into a fabric, the surface effect of the fabric can express a pattern in which the dark color part is a scratch-like pattern based on the light color, and the light color part is a defective pattern based on the dark color. This can be avoided.

Since the light-colored dyeable part is longer than the dark-colored dyeable part, the length of the light-colored dyeable part accounts for the majority of the entire yarn. In addition to having a shrinkage crimp, most of the cross section is flattened and has anisotropy in bending rigidity, and in addition, the texture of the fabric obtained takes into account characteristics such as core hardness and dry feeling. Can be done.

The manufacturing method and principle of the fan sea yarn of the present invention are as follows:
After applying water or an aqueous liquid intermittently to a highly oriented polyester filament undrawn yarn so that the average length of the part to which the liquid is attached is longer than the average length of the part to which no liquid is attached, and then heat-treated,
The fancy yarn of the present invention can be obtained by drawing and false twisting the yarn. In this case, the part of the yarn to which the liquid is attached is difficult to undergo heat treatment and is easily deformed during the drawing and false twisting process, resulting in a flat cross-section of the single filament and a yarn part with light dyeability. Due to the high shrinkage and crystal orientation properties of the non-adherent portion due to heat treatment, there is little deformation during drawing and false twisting, and the cross section of the single filament is not flattened, resulting in a yarn portion with strong dyeability.

FIG. 3 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of the manufacturing process of the fancy yarn of the present invention, in which a highly oriented polyester multifilament undrawn yarn with a birefringence (△n) of 15×10 ^-3 to 80×10 ³ is shown. is the supply yarn F, and the yarn F pulled out from the spool 1 passes through the supply device 2 and is intermittently coated with liquid by the liquid deposition device 3, then enters the first processing device 4, and is transferred to the supply device 2. The fibers are heat-treated at a predetermined tension by the load resistor 5, passed through the load resistor 5, fed into the stretching false twisting region, and drawn at a predetermined stretching ratio by the supply device 2 and yarn take-off device 8. At the same time, the polyester multifilament is twisted by the false twisting body 7 and heat-set by the second heat treatment device 6, passed through the yarn take-up device 8, and then by the wind-up device 9. The yarn is wound into a package 10 as a crimped yarn by twisting the yarn.

In this method, when feeding the yarn after heat treatment to the drawing/false twisting area, a device with a nip, such as a top roller type yarn feeding device, which is normally used, is not used. Even if the length is sufficiently longer than the length of the part to which no liquid is attached, problems such as nip defects due to liquid adhering to the yarn feeding device do not occur, and the fancy yarn of the present invention can be stably produced. be able to.

The polyester in the present invention is a general term for polyesters containing ester bonds in the molecular chain represented by polyethylene terephthalate, and also includes modified polyesters containing a third component such as isophthalic acid and paraoxyethoxybenzoic acid.

As mentioned above, the fancy yarn of the present invention is
Unlike conventional false-twisted yarns that have dyeability in light and shade,
The cross section of the filament that makes up the light color dyeable area is flattened, and the cross section of the filament that makes up the dark color dyeable area is not flattened. As a result, the deep color tone can be obtained without turning the dark color tone cloudy, and conversely, the cross section of the filament that makes up the light color dyeable section is flatter than that of conventional false twisted yarn. As a result, the light color effect is promoted, and due to the synergistic effect of the two, the light and shade effects do not cancel out unlike conventional false twisted yarns having light and shade dyeing properties, resulting in an excellent light and shade effect.

In addition, since the fancy yarn of the present invention has a light dyeable part having an average length longer than a dark color dyeable part, the obtained fabric has a light dyeable part as a base texture,
Dark dyed areas can be expressed as a scratch pattern,
In addition, the cross section of the filament constituting the light-colored dyeable portion is flattened and has anisotropy in bending rigidity, and together with this, it is possible to impart appropriate hardness and a dry feel.

Furthermore, the fancy yarn of the present invention has substantially the same thickness in the light color dyeable portion and the dark color dyeable portion, and has thick and fine irregularities in the longitudinal direction of the yarn like the conventional false twisted yarn having dark and light dyeability. Not only does this improve operability during weaving and weaving, but the dark dyeable part is not unstretched like conventional yarns, so it can become brittle during heat processing such as dyeing and finishing processes. It has advantages such as:

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

Example Highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn obtained by high-speed spinning
230d/48f (birefringence (△n) 40×10 ^-3 ) is supplied to the yarn feeding device in the process shown in Figure 3, and the yarn is controlled in the longitudinal direction using a microcomputer and a random pulse generation unit. Apply water intermittently so that 80% of the water is attached along the
After undergoing relaxation heat treatment at a temperature of 200°C and a tension of 0.02 g/d in the heat treatment equipment, the yarn is passed through a magnetic tensor and sent to the drawing/false twisting area, where the drawing ratio is adjusted by the yarn supplying device and the yarn take-off device. is 1.4 times, the temperature of the second heat treatment equipment is 200℃, and the spindle rotation speed is 20.
A fancy yarn of the present invention was produced by drawing and false twisting at ×10 ⁴ rpm and a false twist number of 2750 T/M.

In the obtained fancy yarn, the thickness of the light color dyeable part and the dark color dyeable part are almost the same, and the cross section of the filament constituting the light color dyeable part is significantly flattened, and it is longer than the dark color dyeable part. So it was warm. This fancy yarn has a warp density of 72 threads/inch and a weft density of 66 threads.
When the fabric was woven into a flat structure with a length of 1/2 inch and dyed with a disperse dye, the workability during weaving was good, and the deep dyed area did not become brittle even during the dyeing process.

The obtained fabric has a ground texture in the light dyed area and a shaving pattern in the dark dyed area, and the shading effect is not canceled out by the degree of light reflection, and has an appearance with excellent shading effect, and has a moderate texture. The fabric had a hard and dry feel.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figure 1 is a schematic side view of the fancy yarn of the present invention, Figures 2a and b are schematic cross-sectional views of the fancy yarn of the present invention, and Figure 3 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of the manufacturing process of the fancy yarn of the present invention. It is. L... Yarn portion that is dyeable in light color, D... Yarn portion that is dyeable in dark color, F... Yarn, 1... Spool, 2... Yarn supply device, 3... Liquid adhesion device , 4...first heat treatment device, 5...load resistor,
6... Second heat treatment device, 7... False twisted body, 8...
... Yarn take-up device, 9 ... Winding device, 10 ... Package cage.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 A crimped yarn created by twisting and straining a polyester multifilament that has dark and light dyeability in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the thickness of the yarn portion that is dyeable in light colors and the yarn portion that is dyeable in dark colors is substantially equal;
The cross-sectional shape of most of the filaments that make up the yarn portion that is dyeable in light colors is significantly flattened;
The cross-sectional shape of most of the filaments constituting the thread portion that is dyeable in a dark color has almost no flattening, and the average length of the thread portion that is dyeable in a light color is dyeable in a dark color. A polyester fancy yarn characterized by a longer than average thread length.