JPH0252022B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION FIELD The present invention relates to a bulky clothing fabric with excellent pilling resistance using a blended yarn made of wool and polyester fibers, and a method for producing the same. Prior Art The combined use of polyester fibers in woolen fabrics has been put into practical use for summer clothing from an early stage in terms of both texture and functionality. Furthermore, it has been considered difficult to put into practical use because of problems with pilling properties. Therefore, attempts have been made to prevent the occurrence of pilling by drastically reducing the strength of the polyester fibers, but this method results in a fabric that has a significantly poor feel and lacks a sense of thickness. Purpose of the Invention The present invention provides an autumn/winter blend fabric that uses wool and polyester fibers, has a texture similar to pure wool, has excellent physical strength, and has excellent anti-pilling properties, and a method suitable for producing the fabric. The purpose is to provide. Structure of the Invention The clothing fabric of the present invention uses a blended yarn in which wool with a fiber length of 30 to 120 mm and polyester fiber with a fiber length of 30 to 120 mm are top-dyed separately and mixed in a ratio of 15:85 to 85:15. It is woven by
As wool, the wool fineness is 18 to 24μ, and JIS
UB solubility measured by L 1081-1971 is 13
The above is used, and the polyester fiber is formed by joining a high viscosity polyester component (component A) and a low viscosity polyester component (component B), and has a fineness of 2 to 4.5 with more B component than A component exposed on the surface. It is characterized by the use of denier polyester composite fiber. For example, as the polyester composite fiber, a composite fiber as described in JP-A-56-107020 can be used. In this case, the A component is a polyester mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate, and the B Polyester whose main component is polyethylene terephthalate
General formula for 100 parts by weight (However, R ₁ and R ₃ are the same or different alkyl groups or phenyl groups, R ₂ is a residue of an aliphatic or aromatic compound, and n is an integer of 1 or more.) from 0.02
12 parts by weight, and 0.02 to 12 parts by weight of glycols,
A polyester composition containing the polyol and the glycol in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 parts by weight is used. The blending ratio of polyol and glycol is preferably about 8/2 to 6/4. The shape of the polyester composite fiber and the ratio of the A and B components constituting it are not particularly limited as long as the low viscosity B component is exposed more than the A component on the surface of the composite fiber, but the A component and the A component are not particularly limited. It is preferable that the proportion of the B component is 2/8 to 8/2, particularly 3/7 to 7/3 by weight, and it is particularly preferable that the B component is bonded to both sides of the A component. Such polyester composite fibers have a two-layer structure similar to wool, and can form strong crimps. In the present invention, by using cotton made of such polyester composite fibers in combination with a moderate proportion of wool with a low degree of fiber damage, such as thin wool with a UB solubility of 13 or more, it is possible to While effectively maintaining bulkiness, anti-pilling properties due to mutual entanglement are improved, and a blended fabric with a thick feel and good texture can be provided. The clothing fabric of the present invention is manufactured using a yarn that is a blend of wool and polyester fibers that are top-dyed separately. However, during top-dyeing, there is little damage to the fibers of both wool and polyester fibers, and the wool is crimped or the polyester composite is used. It is preferable to dye at a low temperature without applying tension so that the fibers can be dyed with the developed crimp intact. For example, when wool is dyed using common high-temperature dyeing or anti-dying methods,
UB solubility is low at 10-11. For this reason, bump dyeing is preferred, and wool is preferably dyed at 90°C or lower, and polyester is preferably dyed at about 100 to 120°C. Next, the wool and polyester fibers dyed in this way are blended, spun, and twisted. When twisting, the number of first twists is 90 to 110% of the number of first twists, especially 100 to 105%. It is preferable that the number of twists is within this range, and crimping is likely to occur effectively during heat treatment during twist fixation and fabric processing. When the number of twists is increased as in the case of ordinary wool/polyester blend yarns, the crimp of the wool and polyester tends to stretch out and disappear easily. The fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited in weaving structure, and can be applied to general worsted materials such as 2/2 twill Saxony. The blended fabric of the present invention is produced by weaving the above-mentioned blended yarn of special polyester fiber and wool into a fabric. To do this, it is necessary to apply a washing process that combines raising, washing, and fulling to the fabric, and then subjecting it to a steaming process at 105 to 115°C. By combining the washing process and the steaming process as described above, it is possible to facilitate the development of crimps and at the same time suppress damage to the fibers. In the washing step, the fabric is massaged and sufficiently relaxed, and it is preferable that the washing be carried out at a relatively high temperature (approximately 30 to 50° C.), as this will facilitate the development of crimps. In addition, the steamed carpet treatment slightly weakens the rat tension that winds up the fabric, and as mentioned above, the temperature is lower than conventional methods (105 to 115
℃), fiber damage can be more effectively suppressed. A typical method for manufacturing the clothing fabric of the present invention is as follows. () Spinning process The wool raw materials and polyester fibers as described above are formed into desired tops according to conventional methods,
Using this top, dyeing, pre-spinning, spinning and twisting are carried out as follows to obtain yarn for textiles. (i) Dyeing Top slivers of wool and polyester fibers are individually filled uniformly in an over-center coiling motion without applying tension to form a bump winding, and then dyed at low temperature. For example, the staining conditions are as follows. Packing density 0.24-0.36g/cm ² bath ratio 1.4-20 Dyeing temperature and time Wool 80-90℃ x 40 minutes Polyester fiber 100-120℃ x 60 minutes It is stretched in the previous process of wool and polyester fibers and almost disappears. Crimp can be restored with this pump dye. (ii) Pre-spinning: After blending wool and polyester dyed tops, doubling is performed using a combination of guild last and roller draft (4-6 steps) (approximately 10,000 times)
While repeating the stretching process, the parallelism of the fibers is improved, and the thick top (20 g/m) is made into a pre-spun sliver of a predetermined thickness (0.33 g/m). (iii) Spinning The pre-spun sliver attached to the creel is spun to the specified thickness (0.0208g/
m) and wrapped around a paper tube rotating at high speed. While being wound around the paper tube, the same number of twists (580 ^tpm ) as the traveler rotates, creating spun yarn (single yarn). (iv) Twisting yarn Two spun yarns are put together and twisted (ply-twisted) in the same way as spinning, and the twist is stopped using a yarn steamer (85
℃ 20 minutes steaming) Obtain yarn for textiles. () Textile processing process The yarn obtained in the spinning process is woven according to a conventional method, and the resulting fabric is boiled, dried, raised,
The process is performed in the following order: fulling, washing, drying, brushing, shearing, pressing, and kettle steaming. Details of each step are as follows. (i) Carpet boiling Instead of the conventional batch-type carpet boiling machine, we use a continuous carpet boiling machine that can save labor and operate at high speed.First, the carpet is passed through a hot water tank at 70℃ to make it moist (100-120%).
It is sandwiched between the moving heating element surface (110℃) and an elastic sheet to apply uniform surface pressure and heat. Then, it is cooled sufficiently by passing it through a water tank at 30°C or lower without restraint. It improves the cohesiveness of the carpet and relieves the stress generated during weaving. (ii) Raising A wire raising machine with a mesh iron cloth roll (diameter 80 m/m) with a curved and sharp tip is used as the raising machine, and the rotation of this drum pulls out the fibers of the carpet that are in contact with it from inside. . The nap becomes stronger or weaker depending on the mutual speed ratio of the carpet, drum, and clothing roll, but the nap before washing (fabric nap) disturbs the fibers more than pulling the fibers and creates stress. Weak raising mainly for relaxation and raising before pressing (finish raising)
The material is fluffed and raised mainly for surface wind.
For both, apply the back and front of the carpet once and raise it. (iii) Washing carpets In addition to removing oil, fat, dust, starch, etc. contained in carpets, its main purpose is to create a texture called scouring. The carpet is shaped into a rope and washed between a wooden squeezing roll and a detergent tank by repeatedly squeezing and releasing it (40-50℃, 2.5 hours). Due to this mechanical action, the fibers that make up the carpet move and interact with each other. Intertwined,
The width and length shrink, and the thickness increases, producing a soft, fluffy carpet. (iv) Fulling The washed carpet is dehydrated (50-60% water content) and attached to a fulling machine in the form of a rope. The carpet is forcibly pushed into a wooden cylinder called a canal by the rotation of the rolls, and is pushed out at a certain rate at a time, so that it is subjected to a powerful kneading action and becomes felt (roll pressure 1000 kg, canal). pressure
80Kg). If the above-mentioned boiling and raising processes are the preparatory steps for creating the texture of a textile, the washing and fulling processes correspond to creating the texture. By combining these four steps, the yarn and the wool and polyester composite fibers stretched during weaving are brought to their original crimped state and intertwined with each other, resulting in a fluffy texture similar to that of pure wool. (v) Shearing The hair is passed through a shearing machine with three rotating blades at a speed of 10 m to trim the surface fuzz on the front and back. (vi) Press Instead of the conventional hand-folding electric press, a labor-saving and high-speed continuous press is used to repeatedly press the carpet by sandwiching it between upper and lower high-temperature plates (110°C) intermittently. The carpet, which has become thick during the washing and shrinking process, is subjected to high-temperature pressing, which greatly increases the cohesiveness of the fibers, making the surface smooth and elastic. (vii) Kama-steamed carpet Wrap it around a cylinder together with a cotton sheet with a smooth surface, place it in a sealed kettle, and steam it to retain its shape while retaining the texture from the previous process. A fabric with the sliminess and elasticity characteristic of woolen fabrics can be obtained. After removing the air that impedes heat conduction and causes uneven steaming using a vacuum pump until the degree of vacuum reaches 720mmHg, saturated steam steaming is performed. The key is to set it evenly without damaging the fibers (110℃ for 10 minutes). Example Wool raw material and polyester composite fiber obtained according to Example 1 of JP-A No. 56-107020 - However, screws were added to the meeting parts on both sides of the polyester so that a large amount of the low-viscosity polyester component was exposed on the fiber surface. Phenol A diglycidyl ether is P-
sec Butylphenol ring-opened polyol and bis(β-hydroxyethyl) terephthalate 8/
A 2/2 twill saxony was obtained according to the spinning and textile processing method described above using a mixture of 2 and 3 added in a proportion of 3.5% by weight relative to the polyester. The fineness of the wool was 21μ, the fineness of the polyester composite fiber was 3 denier, and the components and treatment temperature of the treatment bath during bump dyeing were as follows. For wool (1) Dyeing (80℃ x 30 minutes) Chrome Black PLW 4% Acetic acid 3% (2) Post-treatment (90℃ x 30 minutes) Sodium dichromate 1% For polyester (1) Dyeing (115℃ x 60 minutes) Dianitx Black HGFS 6.0% Dianitx Black RBFS 6.0% Acetic acid 0.6% (2) Reduction cleaning (80℃ x 20 minutes) Cysol E 1.0% Caustic soda 0.8% Hydrosulfite 3.8% The blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers is 4
At 5/55, the yarn was made into a 2/48 yarn and woven into a 2/2 right twill under the following conditions.

[Table] Table 1 compares the physical properties of the product with pure wool products and general polyester blend products. From this table, it can be seen that the method of the present invention can produce clothing that has almost the same feel as pure wool products, and It can be seen that a product with excellent anti-pilling properties that is fully equipped with the functionality found in general polyester blend products can be obtained. The UB solubility of the product wool is also shown in Table 1.

【table】

[Table] However, the performance shown in Table 1 was measured by the following test method. (1) Texture: Measured using a KES texture measuring device. Desirable value for fall/winter suit material. Numi 4.4-5.0 Kosi 5.6-6.1 Fukurami 4.8-5.3 (2) Bulkness: Value obtained by dividing the weight of the fabric by its volume. (apparent specific gravity). (3) Tensile strength and tensile elongation: According to JIS-L1096. (4) Anti-pilling property: According to JIS: L1096, ICL method. (5) Wrinkle resistance: Based on JIS: L1096, Monsanto method. (6) Pleating property: Based on IWS method. (7) Abrasion resistance: According to JIS: L1096A universal method. (8) Shape retention (H, E,): Measures elongation due to moisture. Dimensions of the fabric in an absolutely dry state...A Dimensions of the fabric when immersed in water...B H, E, = B-A/A x 100 (%) (9) UB solubility of wool: According to JIS: L1081-1971. The bulkiness and elastic modulus of each sliver used as a raw material for the products shown in Table 1 were measured using the following methods. The results are shown in Table 2. Measuring method: 20 pieces of raw material in a 6.5cmφ graduated cylinder
g, apply an initial load of 20 g, and measure its height l ₁ . Then, a load of 150g is applied, and its height is l ₂
The weight was further removed, and after leaving it for 1 minute, a load of 20 g was applied, and the height l ₃ was measured. Bulkyness: Weight (20g)/volume (g/cm ³ ) from apparent specific gravity Compressibility: l ₁ −l ₂ /l ₁ ×100 (%) Compressive modulus: l ₃ −l ₂ /l ₁ −l ₂ ×100 (%)

[Table] Effects of the Invention The present invention has created a fabric for autumn/winter use that has a bulky feel that is almost the same as a pure wool product, has no pilling problem, and has excellent wrinkle resistance, abrasion resistance, pleatability, and strength. It is possible to obtain products that can be used in a wide variety of clothing fabrics.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Wool with a fiber length of 30 to 120 mm and a fiber length of 30 to 120 mm
The fabric is woven using a blended yarn made by separately top-dying polyester fibers of 1081-1971, the UB solubility is 13 or higher;
And the above polyester fiber is a polyester composite fiber with a fineness of 2 to 4.5 denier, which is formed by joining a high viscosity polyester component (component A) and a low viscosity polyester component (component B), and has more component B than component A exposed on the surface. A bulky blended fabric with certain characteristics. 2. The A component constituting the polyester composite fiber is polyester mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate, and the B component is based on 100 parts by weight of polyester mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate.
general formula (However, R ₁ and R ₃ are the same or different alkyl groups or phenyl groups, R ₂ is a residue of an aliphatic or aromatic compound, and n is an integer of 1 or more.) from 0.02
12 parts by weight, and 0.02 to 12 parts by weight of glycols,
The clothing fabric according to claim 1, which is a polyester composition containing a total of 0.1 to 15 parts by weight of the polyol and the glycol. 3. The clothing fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight ratio of component A and component B constituting the polyester composite fiber is 2/8 to 8/2. 4. The clothing fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyester composite fiber is formed by bonding component B to both sides of component A. 5. The clothing fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the number of ply twists of the blended yarn is 90 to 110% of the number of ply twists. 6. The clothing fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein both the front and back surfaces are brushed. 7 Wool with fiber length 30-120mm and fiber length 30-120mm
A fabric is woven using a blended yarn made by separately top-dying polyester fibers and blending them in a ratio of 15:85 to 85:15, and the fabric is combined with napping, washing, and fulling. After applying the carpet washing process,
The above-mentioned wool has a wool fineness of 18-24μ and is JIS L 1081.
-1971, with a UB solubility of 13 or more, and the above-mentioned polyester fiber is made by bonding a high viscosity polyester component (component A) and a low viscosity polyester component (component B). A method for producing a bulky blended clothing fabric characterized by using polyester composite fibers with a fineness of 2 to 4.5 deniers in which more of the B component is exposed than the A component. 5 The A component constituting the polyester composite fiber is polyester mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate, and the B component is based on 100 parts by weight of polyester mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate.
general formula (However, R ₁ and R ₃ are the same or different alkyl groups or phenyl groups, R ₂ is a residue of an aliphatic or aromatic compound, and n is an integer of 1 or more.) from 0.02
12 parts by weight, and 0.02 to 12 parts by weight of glycols,
The method according to claim 7, which is a polyester composition containing the polyol and the glycol in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 parts by weight. 9. The method according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the weight ratio of component A and component B constituting the polyester composite fiber is 2/8 to 8/2. 10 Polyester composite fiber is B on both sides of A component
A method according to any one of claims 7 to 9, which is formed by joining components. 11. The method according to any one of claims 7 to 10, wherein the number of first twists of the blended yarn is 90 to 110% of the number of second twists. 12. The method according to any one of claims 7 to 11, wherein the carpet washing is carried out at 30 to 50°C. 13. The method according to any one of claims 7 to 12, wherein the carpet washing step is carried out in the order of raising, washing, shrinking, and washing. 14. The method according to any one of claims 7 to 13, wherein after the carpet washing step is applied, the steam carpet treatment is applied after drying and abrasion treatment. 15. The method according to any one of claims 7 to 14, wherein the fabric is heated and pressed prior to steaming treatment. 16 Claim No. 7 in which the washing process is applied after the stress of the made fabric is relaxed through the boiling process.
The method according to any one of Items 1 to 15.