JPH031427B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

[Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to interlining used for clothing and the like, and particularly to a composite interlining made of a composite of a fiber web and a knitted fabric. [Prior Art] Generally, knitted fabric interlinings and non-woven fabric interlinings are used as interlining materials, but their properties have advantages and disadvantages.
For example, interlining for knitted fabrics does not have the intersecting points of the threads that make up the knitted fabric, so it has excellent flexibility and can move along the outer fabric, but it has poor shape retention and dimensional stability, so it may slip when worn. is likely to occur. In addition, knitted fabric interlining is made of yarn, so it has tension and stiffness, but the space surrounded by the yarn is larger than the space created between the fibers of non-woven fabric, so it is used as an adhesive interlining. The disadvantage is that reverse staining is likely to occur. On the other hand, nonwoven interlining has excellent shape retention and dimensional stability because the fiber intersections are bonded together, but it lacks flexibility, and the texture is soft to some extent due to resin processing. The disadvantage is that you cannot gain tension or lower back without sacrificing. For this reason, various composite interlinings of knitted fabrics and nonwoven fabrics have been investigated in order to compensate for the disadvantages of each of the interlinings of knitted fabrics and nonwoven fabrics, and to take advantage of only their advantages. Conventionally, this composite interlining has been produced by laminating knitted fabrics and fiber webs and intertwining them into one piece using needle punching, or by bonding with adhesive or adhesive fibers pre-impregnated in the fiber web after entanglement. It has been proposed that the fibers are bonded by means. The former interlining is relatively flexible, but since the fibers are not substantially bonded, it is easily deformed by external forces, leaving problems with shape retention. Since they are bonded by adhesive means, shape retention can be achieved, but since the knitted fabric is fixed to the fiber web layer, flexibility is poor, and in the end, a satisfactory product could not be obtained. Furthermore, since both interlinings require an entangling process using needle punching, it has been difficult to obtain a thin composite interlining. [Object of the Invention] The present invention has been made in order to eliminate the drawbacks of the above-mentioned prior art, and has a soft texture, firmness and firmness, as well as flexibility and shape retention, which were previously difficult to achieve at the same time. The purpose is to provide a composite interlining that combines the following. [Structure of the Invention] The present invention provides a coarse woven fabric or a weft-inserted knitted fabric (hereinafter referred to as a "coarse knitted fabric") consisting of yarns having a higher melting point than the thermoplastic fibers in a fibrous web layer containing 20 to 100% by weight of thermoplastic fibers. ) are arranged and are integrated by partially providing thermocompression bonding parts, and the weft of the coarse knitted fabric is not substantially fixed by the thermocompression bonding parts. It is a composite interlining material. That is, in the composite interlining of the present invention, at least the weft of the coarsely knitted fabric disposed in the fiber web layer can move without being fixed to the fiber web layer, while the partial thermocompression bonding portion Since the range of movement of the weft yarn is limited, the composite interlining of the present invention can simultaneously satisfy appropriate flexibility along the outer fabric and shape retention that does not cause slippage. In addition, in the composite interlining of the present invention, the loosely knitted fabric has movement within a certain range, so that when an external force is applied, a reversible shift can be caused in the tissue, and the bonding is only partial. Because it is bonded, it has a very soft texture, and the interlining of the coarsely knitted fabric gives it firmness and firmness, especially in the interlining. The fiber web layer used in the present invention is formed by a known dry method, wet method, melt spinning method, etc., and the web layer contains 20 to 100% by weight of thermoplastic fibers. The thermoplastic fibers are melted into a film in the thermocompression bonded area, and serve essentially to bond the constituent fibers together. For this reason, if the amount of thermoplastic fibers contained in the web layer is less than 20% by weight, sufficient bonding strength may not be obtained, resulting in peeling of the web layer or the strength and durability required for interlining. I end up not being able to do anything. As the above-mentioned thermoplastic fibers, synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, polyolefin fibers, acrylic fibers, and composite fibers made of two or more resins having different melting points are preferably used. Further, the fibers constituting the web layer together with the thermoplastic fibers are not particularly limited, and various fibers such as synthetic fibers, recycled fibers, and natural fibers may be used, but fibers normally used for clothing are particularly preferred. It is desirable that the basis weight of the fiber web layer is in the range of 10 to 60 g/m ² .If it is less than 10 g/m ² , the effect of using the web layer will be small and sufficient shape retention will not be obtained, especially for adhesive interlining. On the other hand, if it exceeds 60g/ ^m2 , it becomes too thick and is not suitable for interlining, and the effect of inserting coarse knitted fabric is weakened, resulting in poor flexibility. Become. The composite interlining of the present invention has a structure in which a coarsely knitted fabric is arranged in the above-mentioned fibrous web layer.
It can be obtained by sandwiching and laminating a coarsely knitted fabric between two fibrous web layers. The coarse knitted fabric used in the present invention is a coarse fabric or a weft inserted knitted fabric, and the coarse fabric has a warp and weft yarn count of 5 to 40 per inch and a fineness of 40 to 40.
200 denier is used, and the number of inserted weft threads is 5 for knitting with weft thread insertion.
~40 yarns/inch, fineness of 80 to 300 deniers, and knitting yarns with fineness of 20 to 40 deniers are used. Here, the number of weft threads of the coarse knitted fabric is 5 to 5.
The reason why 40 lines/inch is desirable is that
If it is less than 5 yarns/inch, the effect of inserting the coarsely knitted fabric will be small, and the resulting interlining will have difficulty exhibiting tension, stiffness, and especially lateral tension.On the other hand, if it exceeds 40 yarns/inch, the thermo-compression bonding part will not be as strong as the weft yarns. The proportion of the material coming to the top increases, and thermocompression bonding is obstructed by the weft threads.
This is because the fibers are not sufficiently bonded to each other in the thermocompression bonded portion, and delamination is likely to occur, making the product impractical. Furthermore, when a knitted fabric with a weft count of more than 40 per inch is used, the resulting composite interlining will have a very hard texture. The number of weft yarns in the coarsely knitted fabric is particularly preferably 10 to 25 yarns/inch. Among the above-mentioned coarse knitted fabrics, composite interlinings using weft yarn insertion knit fabrics provide tension in the weft direction due to the weft yarns, and provide drapability and stretchability due to the knitted structure in the warp direction. It can be suitably used as a core. Normally, multiple interlining materials are combined for the shoulders, chest, waist, hem, etc. to create different tension and stiffness for each area, but the composite interlining of the present invention uses a coarse interlining material. By choosing knitted fabrics that vary in hardness and thickness, you can cover all your needs with a single piece of interlining. In other words, by changing the weft thread density and weft thickness of the coarsely knitted fabric, either continuously or stepwise, depending on the area where it will be used, it is possible to create a composite interlining that has the desired thickness and hardness for each area. You can get it. Various yarns can be used as the yarns constituting the above-mentioned coarse knitted fabric, such as synthetic fiber yarns such as polyester and polyamide yarns, recycled fiber yarns such as rayon yarn, or natural fiber yarns such as cotton yarn and hemp yarn. However, if this yarn exhibits fusibility under the conditions where thermoplastic fibers are fused together, the knitted fabric will end up being fixed to the fiber web layer, resulting in no flexibility.
Since this results in an interlining with a hard feel, the yarn must not exhibit fusibility under the conditions in which the thermoplastic fibers are fused. Therefore, the yarns constituting the knitted fabric must have a higher melting point than the thermoplastic fibers, at least 5°C or higher, preferably 20°C.
Those with higher melting points are preferred. The composite interlining of the present invention is produced by partially thermocompressing fibrous web layers sandwiching a coarsely knitted fabric. This partial thermocompression bonding, for example, points,
10 to 150 shapes such as lines, circles, triangles, squares, and polygons are distributed appropriately per square centimeter.
This is done by applying heat and pressure using an embossing roll or the like having several convex portions. In the thermocompression bonded portion formed in this manner, the fibers are bonded by fusing the thermoplastic fibers. It is desirable that the ratio of the total area of this thermocompression bonded part to the area of the composite interlining is in the range of 5 to 30%; if it is less than 5%, it will not be possible to obtain the necessary durability and strength as an interlining. If it exceeds %, the interlining material will have a hard texture and poor flexibility. A particularly preferable area ratio of the thermocompression bonded portion is 8 to 20%. Further, in the present invention, the weft threads of the coarsely knitted fabric must not be substantially fixed by the thermocompression bonding part. Here, "not substantially fixed" refers to cases where the thermocompression-bonded part is not on the weft thread, or cases where the weft thread can move almost freely even if it is on the weft thread, in which case the thermocompression-bonded part is on the weft thread. It is desirable that the ratio is 10% or less. This is because if this ratio exceeds 10%, the coarsely knitted fabric will be fixed to the fiber web layer and the interlining will lose its flexibility, and the fibers will not be bonded sufficiently at the thermocompression bonded part above the yarn. This is because when an external force is applied, the interlining is easily destroyed and the strength and durability of the resulting interlining are reduced.
The ratio of the thermocompression bonding part to the weft of the coarsely knitted fabric
If it is set to 10% or less, the weft yarn itself does not have fusion properties and is not completely fixed to the web layer even at the thermocompression bonding section, so the majority of the weft yarn is essentially bonded between the thermocompression bonding sections. However, since further movement is restricted, the composite interlining as a whole can achieve both appropriate flexibility and shape retention. This proportion is preferably 5% or less, particularly preferably 0%. Note that the ratio of the thermocompression-bonded parts to the weft of the coarsely knitted fabric here refers to the ratio of the number of thermocompression-bonded parts that are above the weft of the coarsely knitted fabric to the total number of thermocompression-bonded parts, expressed as a percentage. For example, if there are 100 thermocompression bonded parts per unit area, and the number of thermocompression bonded parts on the weft is 10, it will be 10%. However, the number of thermocompression bonding parts is determined by selecting 10 arbitrary locations on the core surface and 1 cm on each side at each location.
The total number of thermocompression bonded parts that fall within the square and the number of thermocompression bonded areas that fall on the weft are counted, and the average value is shown. In the present invention, the ratio of the thermocompression bonded part to the top of the weft yarns is specifically limited because the tension in the weft direction is important for interlining materials, especially front body cores, and generally the weft yarns are the same or thicker than the warp yarns. If the weft is fixed, the movement of the knitted fabric will be significantly hindered, and the bond of the thermo-compression bonded part above the weft is easily destroyed by external force, which has a large effect on strength and durability. It is. In order to keep the proportion of the thermocompression bonded part above the weft of this coarse knitted fabric to 10% or less, when forming the thermocompression bonding part, external force must be applied so that the weft yarn is not pressed by the convex part for thermocompression bonding. What is necessary is to make it move and shift when pressure is applied, for example, by removing tension from the weft thread during thermocompression bonding, or by using a weft thread with a thicker fineness. Also, of course,
It is also effective to synchronize the stitches and weave as much as possible with the distribution of the convex portions of the roll that applies thermocompression bonding, so that the thermocompression bonded portions do not come on top of the weft threads. Preferably, there should be no thermocompression bonded parts not only on the weft yarns but also on the warp yarns, but in the present invention, the coarsely knitted fabric is composed of yarns having a higher melting point than the thermoplastic fibers. Therefore, even if a thermocompression bonded part is formed on the warp yarns to some extent, the coarsely knitted fabric will not be fixed to the fiber web layer and lose its flexibility. Particularly in the case of weft inserted knitted fabrics, even if the knitting structure is partially fixed, there is elasticity due to the knitting structure between the thermocompression bonded parts, so as long as the weft yarn is in a state where it can move, it is sufficient. Show flexibility. The composite interlining of the present invention has flexibility and shape retention as described above, so it may be integrated with the outer material by sewing or the like, but one or both sides may be made of polyamide resin, polyester resin, or polyolefin resin. A so-called heat-fusible resin such as a resin may be attached in the form of dots, powder, filament, etc. and used as an adhesive interlining. [Example] Example 1 Fiber web layer consisting of 100% by weight of 6 nylon fibers (fiber length 44 mm, fineness 1.5 denier, melting point 221°C)
Two layers of 15g/m ² were created, and between these layers was a polyester yarn with a fineness of 120 denier (44th count) (melting point 258℃).
A weft-inserted knitted fabric with 20 wefts per inch (the knitting structure consists of Benbi stitch using 30 denier polyester yarn) 30g/m ²
to form a laminate. Next, this laminate was coated with an engraving roll in which convex portions having a small circular cross section were distributed in the vertical direction so that 20 convex portions per inch (62 convex portions per 1 cm ² ) were distributed at an area ratio of 10%. Adjust the above protrusion so that it is between the weft threads, and set the temperature to 200.
Partial thermocompression bonding was performed at ℃ to obtain a composite interlining. In addition,
At this time, the proportion of the thermocompression-bonded portion above the weft of the weft-inserted knitted material was approximately 0%. The shear force, bending rigidity, tensile strength and elongation, washing strength, and dry cleaning strength of the obtained composite interlining were measured by the following test methods and are shown in Tables 1 and 2. (Shear force) Using a tensile/shear tester (manufactured by Kato Iron Works Co., Ltd.), determine the relationship between the shear amount of the test piece and the shear load, graph it, and determine the shear force from the slope. To measure the shear load, prepare a 20 cm square test piece, fix this test piece between two parallel chucks spaced 5 cm apart so that the actual measurement dimensions are 5 cm x 20 cm, and hold one chuck in place. This was done by shifting the test piece by a certain amount of shear shear by moving it, and measuring the corresponding shear load. The amount of shear shear is expressed by the shear angle. For example, in the case of measured actual dimensions at 5 cm intervals,
When the shear angle is 2°, the shear amount is 1.746mm
(50mm×tan2゜). This shear force indicates the resistance to shearing of the fabric, so the smaller the shear force, the greater the flexibility. (Bending rigidity) Using a pure bending tester (manufactured by Kato Iron Works Co., Ltd.), the relationship between the curvature of the test piece and the bending moment is determined and graphed, and the bending rigidity is determined from the slope of the graph. This measurement was performed by sandwiching a 20 cm square test piece between a fixed chuck and a moving chuck, bending the test piece to a certain curvature by moving the moving chuck, and measuring the corresponding bending moment. (Tensile strength and elongation) Applicable to JIS-L-1085. 5 cm x 20 cm test pieces were set up and 5 pieces were taken in the horizontal direction. These were tested using a tensile tester (manufactured by Toyo Baldwin Co., Ltd.) with a distance between chucks of 10 cm, Tensile strength (Kg) and elongation (%) at break were measured at a tensile speed of 30 cm/min and are shown as average values. (Dry cleaning strength) Wrap a 25cm x 25cm test piece in nylon taffeta.
Using a commercial Perclean cleaner, load cloth was added so that the laundry weight was 1 kg, washed at a washing temperature of 25°C for 8 minutes, drained for 1 minute, dehydrated for 4 minutes, and dried for 5 minutes (60 minutes). C) and deodorization for 2 minutes are repeated three times. Next, the bending rigidity of this test piece was measured to examine changes in physical properties, and changes in the form of the test piece were observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. (Change in shape of sample piece) Grade 5: No change before and after cleaning Grade 4: Slight change before and after cleaning Grade 3: Noticeable change before and after cleaning Grade 2: Significant change before and after cleaning Grade 1: Before and after cleaning (washing strength) A 25cm x 25cm test piece was wrapped in nylon taffeta.
Add 0.5 Marcel soap solution at 40±3℃ for 20 minutes.
Put it in a household washing machine with the above contents, run it at a rotation speed of 500 times per minute for 15 minutes, then rinse it with water, dehydrate it, and dry it at room temperature. Next, the bending rigidity of the dried test piece was examined, changes in morphology were observed, and evaluation was made using the same criteria as for dry cleaning. (Wearing test) A jacket was created using the test piece as the front core,
After examining the appearance change after wearing this for 90 days,
This was dry cleaned and the change in appearance was examined after wearing it for an additional 90 days. Comparative Example 1 A fiber web layer of 60 g/m ² consisting of 100% by weight of 6 nylon fibers (fiber length 47 mm, fineness 1.5 denier),
Using the same engraving roll as in Example 1,
Partial thermocompression bonding was performed at a temperature of 200°C to obtain a nonwoven interlining. The physical properties of the obtained interlining were measured in the same manner as in Example 1, and the results are shown in Tables 1 and 2. Example 2 A laminate consisting of a fiber web layer and a weft-inserted knitted fabric as in Example 1 was rolled using a roll similar to that used in Example 1 so that the convex portion partially overlapped the weft of the weft-inserted knitted fabric. A composite interlining was obtained by thermocompression bonding while allowing this. In addition, at this time, the thermocompression bonding part
Of the 62 pieces/cm ² , 5 pieces/cm ² were on the weft thread, and 8% of the thermocompression bonded parts were on the weft thread. The physical properties of the above composite interlining were measured in the same manner as in Example 1, and the results are shown in Tables 1 and 2. Comparative Example 2 A laminate consisting of a fiber web layer and a weft-inserted knitted fabric as in Example 1 was rolled using a roll similar to that used in Example 1 so that the convex portion partially overlapped the weft of the weft-inserted knitted fabric. A composite interlining was obtained by thermocompression bonding with the weft yarns under tension. At this time, out of 62 thermocompression bonded parts/ ^cm2 ,
12 pieces/cm ² are on the weft thread, and in the thermocompression bonding part
19% was on the weft thread. The physical properties of the above composite interlining were measured in the same manner as in Example 1, and the results are shown in Tables 1 and 2. Example 3 6 Nylon fiber (fiber length 47 mm, fineness 1.5 denier, melting point 220°C) 70% by weight and polyester fiber (fiber length 38 mm, fineness 1.5 denier, melting point 255°C) 30
Two fiber web layers of 20 g/m ² are created between the layers, and between these layers are a weft made of polyester yarn with a fineness of 120 denier (melting point 260°C) and a warp made of polyester yarn with a fineness of 80 denier (melting point 260°C). A laminate was formed by placing 23 woven fabrics per inch in each case. Next, on this laminate, 23 protrusions with a rectangular cross section are formed per inch (per ^cm2 ) in the vertical direction.
Using engraving rolls distributed so that the area ratio is 13%, the convex portions are adjusted so that they are between the weft yarns, and the composite interlining is bonded by partial thermocompression at a temperature of 205℃. I got it. In addition, at this time, there were almost no thermocompression bonded parts on the weft of the fabric. The physical properties of the obtained composite interlining were measured in the same manner as in Example 1, and the results are shown in Tables 1 and 2. Comparative Example 3 Two fiber web layers of 20 g/m ² having the same composition as in Example 3 were created, and between these layers, a weft yarn made of polyester yarn with a fineness of 120 denier and a warp yarn made of polyester yarn with a fineness of 80 denier were placed between the layers of 1 inch each. A laminate was formed by arranging 42 woven fabrics per thread. Next, this laminate has 42 protrusions per inch (per ¹ cm2) in the vertical direction.
Partial thermocompression bonding was performed at a temperature of 205℃ using engraving rolls distributed so that the area ratio was 18%, but the voids in the weave of the fabric were small and the fibers between the upper and lower layers were It was difficult to fuse. For this reason, the resulting composite interlining easily peeled off between layers, making it unsuitable for use. Example 4 On one side of the composite interlining obtained in Example 1, 15 g/m ² of polyamide resin was attached in dots to obtain an adhesive interlining. This adhesive interlining did not cause any reverse staining when bonded to the outer material, and had excellent workability. Furthermore, when bonded to the outer material, it conformed well to the shape of the outer material, and after adhesion did not lose its shape when worn, and had good shape retention.
Furthermore, when this interlining material was used as the front core of a garment, it had moderate tension in the horizontal direction, drape in the vertical direction, and had a soft texture, making it extremely comfortable to wear. . Example 5 Weft yarn made of polyester yarn per inch
It is a knitted fabric with 20 weft threads inserted (the knitting structure is made of a pile knit using 30 denier polyester yarn), and the weft thickness is 250 denier and 180 denier at widths of 15 cm, 20 cm, and 30 cm in the warp direction. A composite interlining was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a weft insertion knitted fabric whose denier gradually changed from 130 denier to 130 denier was used. When this was used as a core for the front body of men's clothing, starting from the thicker side of the weft and hitting the shoulders, chest, and abdomen, the necessary tension was obtained in each part with a single piece of composite interlining. The time-consuming sewing work required in the conventional method can be omitted. Example 6 Weft yarns made of polyester yarn with a fineness of 150 denier were set in widths of 15 cm, 20 cm, and 30 cm in the warp direction, and the number of weft yarns was set in stages to 25 yarns/inch and 20 yarns/inch.
A composite interlining was fabricated in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a knitted fabric with weft insertion (the knitting structure consisted of a double knit using 30 denier polyester yarn) with different weft threads per inch and 15 threads per inch was used. Created. When this material was used as a core for the front body of men's clothing, covering the shoulders, chest, and abdomen, starting from the side with the most number of threads, it was possible to obtain the necessary tension and flexibility for each part with a single piece of composite interlining. .

【table】

【table】

〔Effect of the invention〕

Since the composite interlining of the present invention is both flexible and shape-retaining, it has a high shaping effect such as rounding according to the area of use when making clothes, and can create a beautiful silhouette. . In addition, although it has the flexibility to absorb distortion from external forces, once the shape is determined, it does not easily collapse.
It also doesn't easily fall apart when worn. On the other hand, although the composite interlining of the present invention has a soft texture,
It has excellent strength and durability, and has good tension and waist tension, especially horizontal tension, so it can be used suitably for the core of the front body. Furthermore, in the composite interlining of the present invention, the thickness and hardness of the interlining can be changed by using coarsely knitted fabrics with varying weft implant density and thickness. It is also possible to cover the shoulders, chest, and abdomen with a single piece of interlining. As described above, the composite interlining of the present invention has excellent properties not found in conventional interlining, and is therefore extremely useful as an interlining for clothing.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A laminate comprising a fibrous web layer containing 20 to 100% by weight of thermoplastic fibers and a coarse woven fabric or a weft-inserted knitted fabric made of threads having a higher melting point than the thermoplastic fibers. A composite interlining characterized in that it is integrated by partially providing a thermocompression bonding part, and the weft of the coarse woven fabric or the weft insertion knitted fabric is not substantially fixed by the thermocompression bonding part. 2. The composite interlining according to claim 1, wherein the number of weft and warp yarns of the coarse woven fabric is 5 to 40 yarns/inch. 3 The number of weft threads for weft insertion knitting is 5.
The composite interlining according to claim 1, wherein the interlining is ~40 lines/inch. 4. The composite interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the weft density of the coarse woven fabric or the weft-inserted knitted fabric changes regularly. 5. The composite interlining according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the thickness of the weft yarns of the coarse woven fabric or the weft insertion knitted fabric changes regularly.