JPH0428802B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention is directed to the gussets of the armpits of jackets, specifically, the underarm armholes of the front and back sections and the armholes of sleeves, which are inserted between both armholes. , regarding the underarm gusset that connects both armholes.

[Conventional technology]

Conventionally, the armpit gusset of a jacket has been formed into a straight diamond shape with relatively little difference between the vertical and horizontal center lines. There are two types of linear polygonal armpit gussets: those made from a single piece of cloth, and those made from two pieces with a suture line that connects the body and sleeves under the armpits. The armpit gusset is designed to be inserted and sutured into the armpit part approximately halfway between the front and rear body and the sleeve, or less, in consideration of the vertical movement of the arm. In addition, for example, Utility Model Publication No. 58-4889 has a fold line in a stepped configuration along the armhole for intervening half below the back side with sleeves.
Introducing armpit gussets that allow for forward and upward arm movement.

These conventional armpit gussets are areas that do not affect the appearance of the garment, and are hidden from the jacket without disturbing the original body and sleeve line of slim suits, dresses, etc. It is generally installed in the same position. Therefore, there are many armpit gussets that can withstand certain movements of the arm, but are still uncomfortable due to design constraints. Furthermore, it is difficult and requires skill to sew an armpit gusset formed by a straight contour line that does not follow the delicate curved line of the armhole at the center or rear part of the armpit.

[Problem to be solved by the invention]

The present invention breaks through the conventional design concept of armpit gussets, and has a design that is intended for both slender jackets and jackets with looser body widths that have become popular in recent years.
The purpose of the present invention is to provide an armpit gusset that is harmonious as a whole, easily adapts to arm movements in both forward and backward directions, and up and down directions, and that is easy to sew.

Furthermore, the present invention aims to solve the above-mentioned problem and provide an underarm gusset with good breathability.

[Means to solve the problem]

The underarm gusset of the jacket of the present invention to solve the above problems has a straight longitudinal suture line with a length equivalent to 50% or more of the body armhole, and 30% to 49% of the length of the suture line.
a first side portion formed by connecting each end of a virtual side line of a desired length orthogonal to the suture line at a position of % with an arcuate curve to both ends of the suture line, and forming the suture line as an axis of symmetry; and a second side part.

Further, the underarm gusset of the present invention is characterized in that it has at least two ventilation holes symmetrical with respect to the imaginary armpit line near the imaginary armpit line.

〔Example〕

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in further detail with reference to embodiments of the accompanying drawings.

FIG. 1 shows a first embodiment of the armpit gusset of a garment according to the present invention. In FIG. 1, the armpit gusset 10 is formed by a first side 11 and a second side 12 of the armpit gusset, which are formed on the left and right sides of the linear longitudinal suture line 2. . Length L of suture line 2
is approximately 50% of the total armhole of the garment body to be manufactured.
The length is preferably 50% to 70%. In conventional underarm gussets, which are designed to be attached to both the front and back of the body around the armpit line, the length of the gusset in the corresponding area is usually around 50%. The present invention reduces the suture line length L by 50%.
By making the length above, the armpit gusset is made particularly suitable for free and active back and forth movement of the arm.

The reason why the present invention is provided with the suture line 2 extending in the longitudinal direction, that is, in the direction of the armhole of the jacket, is to solve the discomfort of the conventional armpit gusset, which has a suture line extending from the body to the sleeve. This is to give the suture line 2 a folding effect. That is, when the suture line 2 of the present invention is overlapped and sewn to the front side of the fabric, when the arm is lowered, the suture line 2 tends to enter the body side, and the underarm gusset moves outward by the width thereof. It has the effect of preventing it from sticking out and spoiling the appearance of the jacket design.

The suture line 2 is formed by forming the first side part 11 and the second side part 12 from a single piece of cloth on the back side of the underarm gusset 10, and tying the both sides 11 and 12 together at the longitudinal center position, and pin-tacking the tying part. It can be formed by suturing. Alternatively, as shown in FIG. 2, this suture line 2 may be formed by separately forming the first side part 11 and the second side part 12 of the underarm gusset, and forming each longitudinal suture line 2.
It can also be formed by sewing A and 2B together.

As is clear from FIG. 1, the outline lines 11C and 12 of the first side part 11 and the second side part 12 are formed in substantially left and right symmetrical shapes centering on the suture line 2.
C is composed of a gentle arc-shaped curve. For the outline lines 11C and 12C in FIG. 1, an imaginary side line W of a certain length is set at a position slightly below the center of the suture line 2 and is perpendicular to the suture line 2, and the end of the imaginary side line W is set. It is formed by connecting the upper and lower ends of the suture line 2 with an arcuate curve. The intersection LW of the virtual side line W with the suture line 2 can be arbitrarily set at a position above the suture line 2 within a range of approximately 30% to 49% of the total length L of the suture line 2. For example, if the suture line length L is set to 48 cm and this ratio is 48%, the intersection of the virtual side line W on the suture line 2
LW is set at a position 23 cm from the lower end of suture line 2. The imaginary armpit line W here refers to the armpit line of the armpit gusset on the extension of the armpit seam line of the front and back body of the garment to be manufactured or the extension of the underarm seam line of the sleeve. The length of the virtual side line W can be set proportionally or independently to the length of the suture line L. As mentioned above, for example, the virtual side line W
It is preferable to set the length in a range of 20% to 30% of the suture line length L for reasons described below. More specifically, the suture line length L can be set to 48 cm as in the previous example, and the virtual side line W length can be set to 12 cm. The outline lines 11C and 12C are made by making the center of the virtual side line W set according to this standard orthogonal to the intersection LW, and connecting the left and right ends of the virtual side line W in FIG. 1 to the upper sutures, respectively. It can be formed by connecting one end of the line 2 and the other end of the suture line 2 below with an arcuate curve. Outline 11C formed in this way,
The armpit gusset 1 of the present invention is defined by the area defined by 12C.
0 is completed.

In the present invention, the intersection of the virtual side line W with the suture line 2
The reason for displacing the LW instead of centering it on the suture line is to make the armpit gusset inserted on the back side of the garment longer than on the front side, thereby making forward movement of the arm more comfortable. The reason why the width of the armpit gusset 10 set by the virtual armpit line W length is made considerably smaller than the length of the armpit gusset 10 set by the suture line 2 is due to the shape of the armpit outline lines 11C and 12C. This width allows the vertical movement of the arm to be sufficiently comfortable and maintains aesthetic harmony in design with the sleeves and body of the garment. Furthermore, the sleeves of clothing have an arcuate outline.
This is to simplify sewing with the sleeves of the garment and the armholes of the body without damaging the original design lines of the body. It is extremely difficult to sew together the complex curves of the sleeves and armholes of clothing and the conventional polygonal armpit gussets that are constructed of straight lines. Since the armpit gusset 10 according to the present invention is constituted by a gentle long curve that follows the armhole of the garment, the difficulty in sewing is considerably eliminated. Furthermore, this underarm gusset is 10
The fact that the outer lines 11C and 12C are curved means that they can easily match the armholes of clothing, and for that reason, the straight polygonal sides of the conventional underarm gussets are forced and sewn to the armholes. Since this is not necessary, the stretchability of the fabric is maintained even after it is sewn into the armhole of clothing, and the stretchability can be exhibited against movement of the arm in all directions.

As described above, FIG. 2 has the same configuration as FIG. 1, but the first side part 11 and the second side part 2 of the underarm gusset 10 are made separately. first side and second side
When the side parts 2 are turned inside out and overlapped with each other and sewn together along the seam lines 2A and 2B, an underarm gusset 10 similar to that shown in FIG. 1 is formed.

The first side part 1 and the second side part 2 are 1 as shown in FIG.
If it is made in sheets, the trouble of cutting the suture lines 2A and 2B in FIG. 2 can be saved. However, the two-piece armpit gusset 10 shown in FIG. 2 allows the remaining fabric to be used effectively.

FIG. 3 shows a third embodiment of the underarm gusset 10 of a jacket according to the present invention. The underarm gusset 10 of the third embodiment has the same configuration as the first embodiment except that four ventilation holes 3a, 3b, 3c, and 3d are provided. One ventilation hole 3a, 3b is installed at a symmetrical position between the suture line 2 on the rear body side parts 11B, 12B, and the virtual side line W
The ventilation hole 3 is placed symmetrically between the ventilation holes 3a and 3b with the
c and 3d are the front body side parts 11A and 12A. The ventilation holes 3a, 3b, 3c, and 3d may be punched and threaded, or the periphery of the hole may be fixed with an eyelet fitting. Ventilation holes 3a, 3
b, 3c, and 3d function to release dirt that tends to get trapped under the armpits.

FIG. 4 shows a state in which the armhole 41 of the front body 4 and the armhole 51 of the sleeve 5 are sewn to a jumper with the underarm gusset 10 of FIG. 3 interposed between them. In this figure, the imaginary side line W in FIG. 3 is connected to the underarm line of the body and the underarm line of the sleeve, and the front body side 11A of the armpit gusset 10 is along the front body 4 of the jacket, and the front body side 12A is connected to the body side line W of FIG. is along sleeve 5 of the jacket.

In addition, in the above drawings and examples, the seam allowance is indicated,
Explanation has been omitted. A known seam allowance may be provided as desired.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The armpit gusset of the garment of the present invention with the above structure does not impair the original design appearance of the garment.
Together with the morphological characteristics of the underarm gusset, the elasticity of the fabric can be utilized, making all movements of the arm comfortable and easy to sew.

Furthermore, the underarm gusset of the present invention has an excellent effect on breathability.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a plan view of a first embodiment of the armpit gusset of a jacket according to the present invention, FIG. 2 is a plan view of a second embodiment of the armpit gusset of a jacket according to the present invention, and FIG. A plan view of the third embodiment of the lower gusset, and a fourth embodiment of the lower gusset.
The figure shows a state in which the armpit gusset according to the present invention is attached to a jacket. 10... Armpit gusset, 11... First side part, 12...
...Second side, 2...Suture line, L...Suture line length, W
...Virtual side lines, 3a, 3b, 3c, 3d...Vent holes.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. Has a straight longitudinal suture line with a length equivalent to 50% or more of the length of the armhole of the body, and 30% to 49% of the length of the suture line.
A first line in which each end of an imaginary side line of a desired length orthogonal to the suture line is connected to both ends of the suture line with an arcuate curve to form the suture line as an axis of symmetry.
An underarm gusset of a jacket characterized by comprising a side part and a second side part. 2. The armpit gusset of a jacket according to claim 1, wherein at least two ventilation holes symmetrical with respect to the imaginary armpit line are provided near the imaginary armpit line.