JPH0520406B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention] The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic.

Cosmetics are generally classified into water-based types, which are made by blending cosmetic oils with appropriate additives and emulsified with emulsifiers, and solid types, which are made by mixing pigments with cosmetic oils and additives.

The most commonly used cosmetic oils are castor oil, wood wax, lanolin, beeswax, squalane, animal and vegetable oils and fats such as olive oil and jojoba oil, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, and octane. There are synthetic oils such as acid/decanoic acid mixed glyceride, isooctanoic acid glyceride, and silicone oil, and mineral oils such as ceresin and liquid paraffin. However, since these are oily, they may have poor oxidation stability and may be troublesome to handle.

In addition, conventionally used emulsifiers are not necessarily satisfactory in terms of safety, skin feel, emulsion stability, etc., and therefore there are various difficulties in the production of cosmetics.

An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic that does not have the above-mentioned drawbacks during production.

As a result of extensive research, the present inventors have found that using protein or partially hydrolyzed protein obtained by hydrolyzing it with acid or proteolytic enzymes as an emulsifier, cosmetic oils and additives are emulsified and dispersed in this, It has been found that by subsequent spray drying the above object is achieved.

The present invention was completed based on this knowledge, and uses an aqueous solution of protein or partially hydrolyzed protein obtained by hydrolyzing it with an acid or a proteolytic enzyme as an aqueous phase, and uses a cosmetic oil agent and an antioxidant. Obtained by spray drying an oil-in-water emulsion containing additives such as vitamins, hormones, drugs, preservatives and antibacterial agents, and fragrances as the oil phase, the outer shell is protein and the inside is oil and oil. This is a cosmetic containing powder as an additive.

Examples of the protein used in the present invention include vegetable proteins obtained from soybeans, sunflowers, etc., and animal proteins such as gelatin and casein.
Partially hydrolyzed proteins obtained by hydrolyzing the above-mentioned proteins with acids or proteolytic enzymes can also be used. Partially hydrolyzed protein is obtained by partially hydrolyzing protein obtained by a conventional method with an acid such as hydrochloric acid or a proteolytic enzyme such as pepsin or papain.

Casein and gelatin have a heavy feel on their own;
In addition, emulsions made using these materials exhibit high viscosity, and in order to be spray-dried, the water content must be increased to around 70-90%.
It is necessary to reduce the viscosity. For this reason, the energy cost during spray drying increases, but casein and gelatin are preferable for cosmetics that are heavy to the touch and have a filmy feel. Generally, soybean protein is a good protein in terms of raw material, color, odor, texture, etc. Furthermore, in terms of emulsifying properties, dispersibility, feel as a cosmetic, etc., it is preferable to use partially hydrolyzed extracted soy protein, concentrated soy protein, and isolated soy protein obtained by conventional methods.
Here, the conditions for partial hydrolysis are 1 to 1 in the case of hydrochloric acid.
Using a 5% protein dispersion solution, the chlorine concentration is 0.3 to 3%.
The decomposition temperature is kept in the range of 75 to 95°C for about 1 to 50 hours. In the case of proteolytic enzymes, 1 to 5%
Using a protein dispersion solution of
0.03-0.3% and kept at the optimum pH and temperature of the enzyme for 1-50 hours.

The degree of partial hydrolysis is indicated by the dissolution rate of the protein in a 20% trichloroacetic acid aqueous solution (hereinafter referred to as the TCA solubility rate), and in the present invention, the TCA solubility rate is
10 to 60% by weight is preferred. TCA solubility is
If it exceeds 60%, the emulsifying property decreases and the inclusion function also decreases.

Partially hydrolyzed soy protein has a large emulsifying power, and it is possible to emulsify water and oil with a small amount of partially hydrolyzed soy protein. That is, when partially hydrolyzed soybean protein is used, it is possible to increase the oil content to about 90 to 92% (coating material: oil = 1:9 to 12).

In addition, conventional soy protein is generally inferior in odor and color, but the present inventors have further developed a soy protein that is partially hydrolyzed using hydroalcohol to remove odor components and pigments. White has found a solution to these problems as well. The preferred concentration of hydroalcohol is 50 to 90 W/W%.

The cosmetic oils used in the present invention include commonly used animal and vegetable oils such as castor oil, wood wax, shinoline, beeswax, squalane, olive oil, and jojoba oil, and synthetic oils such as isopropyl myristate and octyl myristate. Examples include dodecyl, octanoic acid/decanoic acid mixed glyceride, isooctanoic acid glyceride, diisostearic acid diglyceride, triisostearic acid diglyceride, diisostearyl malate, silicone oil, mineral ceresin, liquid paraffin, solid paraffin, etc. Also, a mixture of two or more of these may be used.

The cosmetic additives used in the present invention include vitamins and their derivatives such as vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, vitamin C stearate, and vitamin C palmitate, antioxidants such as BHA, BHT, and tocopherol, and P- These include drugs such as octyl methoxycinnamate, oryzanol, glycyrrhizin derivatives, various plant extracts, hormones such as follicular hormone, pregnenolone, and adrenal cortical hormone, preservatives and antibacterial agents such as paraoxybenzoic acid ester, and various fragrances.

These various additives are used by being dissolved in a cosmetic oil or added to an aqueous protein solution in the same manner as a cosmetic oil. Similarly, it is also possible to blend inorganic pigments such as talc, kaolin, bentonite, mica, titanium, and various organic pigments.

The present invention is carried out using the above raw materials as follows. First, make an aqueous protein solution by diluting the protein 5 to 10 times its volume. 0.5 to 2 parts of a cosmetic oil and various additives are gradually added to 1 part of this aqueous solution, and emulsified using a stirrer such as a homomixer to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion. Further, if necessary, it is also possible to achieve homogenization using a colloid mill, a high-pressure homogenizer, or the like. By spray-drying this oil-in-water emulsion, a powder (hereinafter referred to as powder capsule) whose outer shell is protein and whose interior is oil and additives is obtained. Spray drying is carried out by a normal method under conditions of a blowing temperature of 100 to 130°C, an exhaust temperature of 60 to 90°C, and a product temperature of 50 to 80°C.

The present invention is a cosmetic containing this powdered capsule.

The powdered capsule obtained by the present invention has an outer shell covered with protein and a cosmetic oil and additives dispersed inside. When pressure is applied, the oil inside flows out and becomes liquid. Furthermore, by adding water, the protein in the outer shell acts as an emulsifier and self-emulsifies. Therefore, emulsified cosmetics can be obtained freely from these capsules at any time. Therefore, basic cosmetics such as creams, milky lotions, lotions, etc. can be easily and freely diluted with water and prepared.

In addition, one of the features of the present invention is that the cosmetic oil contains antioxidants, vitamins, hormones, drugs, etc.
Since additives such as preservatives, antibacterial agents, fragrances, etc. can be mixed in, cosmetics containing these can be obtained in powder form. Furthermore, one of the features of the present invention is that
Since protein is used as the outer shell of the powdered capsule and the protein acts as an emulsifier, it also improves safety and film feel, which are the shortcomings of conventionally commonly used emulsifiers. can. In other words, the protein content in the outer shell itself is highly safe;
It is also suitable as an emulsifier for cosmetics, and has a very good texture. Furthermore, since it can be emulsified freely during use, emulsion stability is not so necessary, and the powdered capsules of the present invention and an appropriate amount of water can be added to the palm of the hand and stirred and kneaded by hand. cosmetics can be obtained. Furthermore, since it is a powder capsule, it is easy to package the amount for one time use, and since it is coated with protein, it is easy to block air and light, making it possible to store it for a long time. It also has some features. Therefore, cosmetic oils and additives with poor stability can also be used.

On the other hand, in the case of makeup cosmetics, by breaking the powder capsule of the present invention before use, a new type of cosmetics not previously available can be obtained. For example, by kneading the pigment and the powdered capsule of the present invention, the color tone, density, and oiliness can be freely adjusted. Therefore, the user can mix the desired hue and feel according to their preference at the time of use.

It is also possible to use the powdered capsules of the present invention as raw materials for general cosmetics. In that case, it can be used in a normal formulation, and many cosmetics can be obtained by taking advantage of the emulsifying properties of the protein and the characteristics of the oil used.

Examples are shown below.

Example 1 Gelatin (manufactured by Nitsupi Co., Ltd., Gelatin PBF) 300g
4 of warm water was added to the mixture, and the mixture was dispersed using a homomixer.
On the other hand, 40 g of vitamin C stearate was dissolved by heating in 800 g of diglyceryl diisostearate. The vitamin C stearate-dissolved oil was added to the aqueous gelatin solution while stirring at 5000 rpm using a homomixer to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, which was further homogenized using a high-pressure homogenizer (pressure: 100 Kg/cm ² ). Next, this was dried in a spray dryer (evaporated water content: 50 kg/
h) to obtain powder capsules under conditions of an air blowing temperature of 120°C, an exhaust air temperature of 90°C, and a solution throughput of 100 kg/h. This product was a uniform powder with a diameter of 20 to 60 μm, and no oil bleed was observed at all.

The above powdered capsules could be easily emulsified in the palm of the hand by simply adding water, resulting in a convenient powdered nutritional cream.

Example 2 Add 50 g of warm water to 300 g of casein soda, disperse with a homomixer, and separately add 50 g of beeswax.
g, lanolin 50g, liquid paraffin 300g, isooctanoic acid triglyceride 400g, vitamin E10
g, 2 g of ethylparaben, and an appropriate amount of fragrance were mixed and dissolved in the oil phase and added to the casein soda solution while stirring at 5000 rpm to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, which was further homogenized using a high-pressure homogenizer (pressure: 50 Kg/cm ² ). It became. Next, this was dried in a spray dryer (evaporated water content: 50 kg/
h) to obtain powdered capsules under conditions of an air blowing temperature of 110°C, an exhaust air temperature of 70°C, and a solution throughput of 100 kg/h. This product was a uniform powder with a diameter of 20 to 50 μm, and no oil bleed was observed at all.

The above powdered capsules could be easily emulsified in the palm of the hand by simply adding water, and a cream with a good texture was obtained.

Example 3 Warm water 7 was added to 500 g of concentrated soy protein (crude protein content 68%) and dispersed with a homomixer, while 100 g of lanolin, 400 g of liquid paraffin, 400 g of squalane, and 600 g of isostearyl myristate were added.
g, 20 g of vitamin C stearate, 20 g of vitamin E acetate, 20 g of glycerin, 3 g of methylparaben, and an appropriate amount of fragrance were mixed and dissolved in the oil phase at 5000 rpm.
The mixture was added to the concentrated soybean protein solution with stirring to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, which was further homogenized using a high-pressure homogenizer (pressure: 50 kg/cm ² ). Next, this was applied to a spray dryer (evaporated water content: 50 kg/h) to obtain powder capsules under conditions of an air blowing temperature of 110°C, an exhaust air temperature of 70°C, and a solution throughput of 100 kg/h. This one has a diameter of 20
It was a uniform powder of ~50 μm (protein content: approximately 16%) with no oil bleed observed at all. The above powdered capsules were easily emulsified in the palm of the hand by simply adding water, and a cream with a good texture was obtained.

Example 4 0.005 parts of purified pepsin was added to 100 parts of a 5% aqueous solution of isolated soy protein (crude protein content 92%) obtained by a conventional method, and after adjusting the pH to 2.0 with hydrochloric acid, the temperature of the solution was lowered. It was held at 50°C for 1 hour. This solution was sterilized at 135°C for 5 seconds using the ultra-high temperature short-term sterilization method (UHT method), and then concentrated under reduced pressure to a protein concentration of 10%. The TCA solubility of the obtained partially hydrolyzed soybean protein was 25%. This concentrate 10
While continuing to stir at 5000 rpm using a homo mixer, dimethyl silicone (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.,
Gradually add 5.0 kg of KF96-50) to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, and then use a high-pressure homogenizer (pressure: 100
Kg/cm ² ). Next, this was applied to a spray dryer (evaporated water content: 100 kg/h), and the air temperature was 120°C.
Powdered capsules were obtained under the following conditions: exhaust air temperature: 90°C, solution throughput: 100 kg/h). This one has a diameter of 30~70μ
It was a uniform powder with no oil bleed at all. A conditioning rinse was made using the obtained powdered capsules with the following formulation.

Said silicon-containing powder capsule 2.5% by weight Polyoxyethylene cholesterol 1.0 Glyceryl monostearate 2.0 Flavoring agent, preservative Appropriate amount Water Addition to make the total amount 100% by weight Example 5 Concentrated soy protein obtained by conventional method Concentrated hydrochloric acid was added to a 5% aqueous solution of (crude protein content: 67%) to adjust the hydrochloric acid concentration to 1%, and the liquid temperature was maintained at 85°C for 10 hours. Next, after neutralizing with a 20% sodium hydroxide solution, the mixture was heat sterilized and concentrated under reduced pressure in the same manner as in Example 4. The TCA solubility of the obtained partially hydrolyzed soybean protein was 40%. This concentrated solution 10 is stirred at 5000 rpm using a homomixer. Meanwhile, a paste oil prepared by heating and melting 6.0 kg of octanoic acid/decanoic acid mixed glyceride, 600 g of ascorbic acid stearate, and 300 g of vitamin E was gradually added to the concentrated liquid while stirring to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion. It was homogenized using a homogenizer (pressure: 100 Kg/cm ² ). Next, spray drying was carried out in the same manner as in Example 4 to obtain powdered capsules. This one has a diameter of 20~
It was a uniform powder of 60μ, and no oil bleed was observed at all. This powdered capsule could be easily emulsified in the palm of the hand by simply adding water, and a cream with a good texture was obtained.

Example 6 Isolated soybean protein (crude protein content 92%) obtained by a conventional method was dispersed in 5 times the amount of 80% ethanol solution and washed at 50°C for 1 hour. After obtaining a precipitate by centrifugation, this was dried under reduced pressure to obtain soybean protein powder. Next, a 5% aqueous solution of this soy protein powder
0.01 part of bioplase per 100 parts (Nagase Sangyo)
Co., Ltd.) and adjust the pH to 9.0 with ammonia water.
The liquid temperature was maintained at 55°C for 2 hours. This solution was heat sterilized and depressurized in the same manner as in Example 4, and concentrated to a protein concentration of 10%. The obtained partially hydrolyzed soy protein
The TCA solubility rate was 35%. This concentrated solution 10 was stirred at 5000 rpm using a homomixer. Meanwhile, 300g of beeswax, 300g of cetanol, lanolin
400g, squalane 1000g, isooctanoic acid triglyceride 1500g, propylene glycol 300g,
200 g of talc, 200 g of mica, an appropriate amount of a coloring agent, an appropriate amount of a fragrance, and an appropriate amount of an antioxidant/preservative were added to the concentrate while stirring to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion. Next, spray drying was carried out in the same manner as in Example 4 to obtain powdered capsules. This product was a uniform powder with a diameter of 20 to 60 μm and no oil bleed was observed at all. The content of cosmetic oils is approximately 60%. This powdered capsule could be easily emulsified in the palm of the hand by simply adding water, and had a good feel.

Example 7 Concentrate 10 with TCA solubility of 35% obtained in Example 6
Stir at 5000 rpm using a homomixer.
While stirring, add isooctanoic acid triglyceride 4
Kg was gradually added to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion, which was further homogenized using a high-pressure homogenizer (pressure: 100 Kg/cm ² ). Next, spray drying was carried out in the same manner as in Example 4 to obtain powdered capsules. This product was a uniform powder with a diameter of 20 to 60 μm, and no oil bleed was observed at all. An emollient cream was obtained using the above powdered capsules according to the following formulation example.

Powdered capsule of Example 7 40.0% by weight Beeswax 6.0 Lanolin 8.0 Cetanol 5.0 Polyoxyethylene sorbitan sesquioleate (20EO) 2.0 Glyceryl monostearate 2.0 Flavor, preservative, antioxidant Appropriate amount Purified water Added to make the total amount 100% by weight

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. The aqueous phase is an aqueous solution of protein or partially hydrolyzed protein obtained by hydrolyzing it with acid or proteolytic enzyme, and cosmetic oils, antioxidants, vitamins, hormones, drugs, It is obtained by spray-drying an oil-in-water emulsion containing additives such as preservatives, antibacterial agents, and fragrances as the oil phase, and contains a powder whose outer shell is protein and whose interior is oil and additives. Cosmetics. 2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the protein is soybean protein. 3. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the raw material of partially hydrolyzed soybean protein is soybean protein from which pigments, odorous components, etc. have been removed using hydroalcohol. 4. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the protein content in the powder is 10 to 50% by weight. 5. Claim 1 in which one or more of liquid paraffin, octanoic acid/decanoic acid mixed glyceride, isooctanoic acid triglyceride, diglycerin isostearate, squalane, olive oil, and silicone oil is used as a cosmetic oil agent. Cosmetics listed in section. 6. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the cosmetic oil in the powder is 50 to 90% by weight. 7 The cosmetic oil agent consists of either octanoic acid/decanoic acid mixed glyceride, isooctanoic acid glyceride, or diglycerin isostearate, and ascorbic acid fatty acid ester is added as an additive, and the protein content in the powder is 10 to 50.
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of cosmetic oil is 50 to 90% by weight, and the content of ascorbic acid ester is 1.0 to 15.0% by weight. 8. The cosmetic according to claim 1, comprising a pigment such as mica, talc, or kaolin dispersed in an oil-in-water emulsion.