JPH0653990B2 - Natural fur-finished hair products - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a napped product made of synthetic fibers, and more particularly to a napped product having a natural fur-like appearance and feel.

[Conventional technology and its problems]

As a method for artificially producing a napped product similar to natural fur, that is, a napped product having long and thick sting hair and short and thin fluff, a method described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-4910 is known. The method uses two or more types of polyester fibers having different solubilities for alkali as piles,
It is characterized in that the tip portion of the pile is treated with alkali. Specifically, a pile fabric having a pile containing thin polyester filaments for fluff and thick polyester filaments for fluff (coarse hairs) is dipped in an alkaline bath with the pile side facing down, and only the pile tip is 10 mm. Dip only the tip 2 mm. However, according to this method, it is difficult to make the length of the pile entering the alkaline bath the same at the edge portion and the central portion of the pile fabric. The product feels bad because it penetrates to the root and sticks the pile.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 55-57069 discloses a napped surface of a fabric having napped fibers composed of two or more kinds of synthetic fibers having different dissolution or hydrolysis rates, and a viscous treatment of 1000 to 15000 cps containing a solvent or a decomposing agent. A method of applying an agent to simultaneously form fluff and sting is disclosed. This method is described in JP-B-48-4910.
Although it is said that the drawbacks of the method described in the publication are solved, the problem is that not only is the tip of the sting hair sharpened, but the central portion is not a little non-uniformly dissolved and becomes thin, or its surface deteriorates. There is.

In Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 59-45788, a napped fiber structure is attached to a rotating cylinder to rotate the nap to raise the nap, while a solvent is placed inside a similarly rotated cylinder shell on the outside of the nap to make it round by centrifugal force. It describes a method of forming a liquid surface and contacting it with the napped tip while controlling the liquid surface height to form fluff and taper the pricking tip. In this way, fluff and especially stings are formed uniformly and cleanly, but the length of the hair is so uniform that it is rather unnatural and has the drawback of being somewhat different from the appearance and feel of natural fur. Yes, and the structure and operation of the manufacturing equipment are complicated.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention]

An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks of the conventional artificial fur manufacturing method, and to provide a napped product having an appearance and feel more similar to that of natural fur.

[Means for Solving the Problems]

The napped product of the present invention is a napped product made of a napped fabric in which napped napped fibers and fluffed napped fibers each of which are made of synthetic fibers are substantially evenly distributed on the base fabric. Cumulative fiber length distribution of each standing hair (0 for the longest fiber side)
%), The difference between the average length of the fibers contained in the frequency of 0 to 5% and the average length of the fibers contained in the same frequency of 95 to 100%, d (stabbing) and d (fluff) is 2 <d (stabbing). Hair) <10 (mm) 3 <d (fluff) <15 (mm), and the tip of the stabbing-like napped fiber is tapered, and the fiber length of the stabbing-like napped hair and fluff-like napped hair respectively In the cumulative distribution, the cumulative distribution line between the frequencies of 25% and 75% is substantially linear, and all the napped fibers are erected evenly in one direction in a napped product.

That is, the napped product of the present invention is a novel artificial napped product having an appropriate napped length distribution and fluff length distribution.
In the product obtained by the method described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 48-4910, the alkaline liquid permeates unevenly due to the capillary phenomenon, so that the distribution of the length of fluff and sting becomes too broad, and the appearance of natural fur, It's a different feel.
Further, in the product obtained by the method described in Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 59-45788, the lengths of fluff and sting are too uniform, respectively, and this also gives an unnatural appearance.

In the napped product of the present invention, preferably 2 <d (stabbing) <8 (mm) 4 <d (fluff) <11 (mm), particularly preferably 3 <d (stabbing) <7 (mm) 4 <d. (Fluff) <8 (mm). In addition, in the cumulative fiber length distributions of stabbed fluff and fluffy fluff, the cumulative distribution line between the frequencies of 25% and 75%, and more preferably between 15% and 85% is almost a straight line. . That is, the fiber length distribution during this period is almost uniform. Therefore, if the characteristics of the napped product of the present invention are simply expressed, the fiber length distributions of sting and fluff are neither extremely sharp nor extremely broad, and evenly distributed in a relatively narrow range. I am doing it. There has never been an artificial napped product having such a napped distribution. Further, the tips of the stabbing hairs and the fluff are tapered, and all the naps are erected evenly in almost one direction. The napped product of the present invention having the above characteristics is excellent in that it has the appearance and feel similar to natural fur.

The napped product of the present invention can be produced by the following three novel methods.

The first is to apply a dissolving treatment liquid containing a solvent that dissolves the naps of the above-mentioned synthetic fiber naps, which are to be fluff, to the nap side of the napped fabric having two or more kinds of synthetic fiber naps having different dissolution rates in a solvent. , Melt-cutting the naps to form fluff, and then attaching a napped fabric to the holder with the nap side facing outward and rotating the holder to raise the naps to be sting. Is applied to the napped side of the napped fabric with a dissolution treatment solution containing a solvent that dissolves the napped hair to be sting, and the tip of the napped hair is tapered.

Here, the napped cloth itself having two or more kinds of synthetic fiber naps having different dissolution rates in a solvent, which should become sting and fluff, can be a conventionally known one in the production of artificial fur.

A synthetic fiber having a different dissolution rate in a solvent is a combination of synthetic fibers having different constituent polymers, single yarn fineness, and / or surface / cross-sectional shape. Therefore, when the fiber is treated with the solvent, substantially only the specific synthetic fiber can be selectively dissolved due to the difference in the dissolution rate. As the synthetic fiber, for example, polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, polyacrylonitrile fiber can be used, and polyester fiber is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of feeling and processability. In order to make the dissolution rate different by using the same type of polymer, the single yarn fineness can be largely different, for example, several times to several tens times. When the same type of polymer is used, it is preferable to use a relatively mild solvent for fluff formation and a relatively strong solvent for tapering the stabbing naps raised according to the present invention. When a different polymer is used, the naps of a specific polymer can be preferentially dissolved by using a solvent for the specific polymer only.

Examples of the combination of different kinds of polymers include polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate.

The napped fabric used in the present invention may be any of woven fabric, knitted fabric, and non-woven fabric. The napped length, constituent polymer, etc. are not particularly limited, but the napped length is 5 to 80 mm, and the napped density is 3000 to 20000 fibers /
cm ² is preferable. As for the single yarn fineness of the napped hair, the fibers to be stabbed are 15 to 60D, the fibers to be fluff are 0.2 to 8D,
The ratio of the numbers of both fibers is preferably about 25-40.

In the present invention, the solvent is a solvent that dissolves or hydrolyzes the synthetic fibers, for example, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, formic acid, phenol, metacresol, dimethyl sulfoxide, etc. for polyamide fibers, chlorophenol, hydroxylation for polyesters. Potassium, especially sodium hydroxide, dimethylformamide for acrylonitrile fibers,
Examples thereof include dimethyl sulfoxide, ethylene carbonate, sulfuric acid and the like. Heating can optionally be applied to facilitate dissolution. For example, at 130 to 200 ° C for 60 seconds
Dry heat for 40 minutes, steam heat at 100-130 ℃ for 5-40 minutes or 1
Superheated steam heating at 20-220 ℃ for 5-40 minutes.

In the present invention, first, a dissolution treatment liquid containing a solvent that dissolves naps to be fluff is applied to the nap side of the fabric, and the naps are melted and cut to form fluff. The dissolution treatment liquid penetrates to a certain extent from the surface of the nap and cuts the nap to be fluff from the base cloth into, for example, half the length of the nap. For this reason, the dissolution treatment liquid preferably has a viscosity of 300 to 4000 cps. At viscosities below 300 cps, the treatment liquid penetrates too deeply, resulting in fluff that is too short. On the other hand, if the viscosity is higher than 4000 cps, the penetration of the treatment liquid will be insufficient and irregular fluff will occur. Conventional means can be used to adjust the viscosity, and a sizing agent such as sodium alginate, sodium polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohol, starch or the like can be added to the solvent or the solvent solution. The processing liquid is
It is typically applied in an amount of 500 to 3000 g / m ² . If the fluff for fluff is polyester, apply an aqueous sizing agent solution containing 15 to 25% by weight of sodium hydroxide to the nap and leave it at around 100 ° C.
It is preferable to leave it for 10 to 40 minutes.

As described above, the length of the fluff of the napped product obtained by the present invention is not too uniform and conversely has a too wide distribution as in the conventional case, and shows an appropriate length distribution. One particularly preferred mode for appropriately controlling the length distribution of the fluff is to attach the napped fabric to the holder, preferably a cylinder, with the nap side facing outwards, apply the dissolution treatment liquid to the nap, and rotate the holder. Then, the fluff for fluff is dissolved and cut while applying a centrifugal force of 2 to 15 G.

After forming the fluff, washing is usually performed to remove the dissolution treatment liquid.

Next, one of the features of this method is to erect the pierced naps before processing them. For this,
The napped fabric is attached to the holder with the nap side facing outward, and the holder is rotated at a high speed to give a centrifugal force of 30 G or more, preferably 60 G or more. Preferably, the cloth is heated while the holder is rotated, the naps are sufficiently raised and then cooled to room temperature to heat set the nap, and then the rotation of the holder is stopped. The heating can be performed, for example, by dry heat at 150 to 250 ° C, high temperature wet heat at 160 to 250 ° C, or wet heat steam at 100 to 150 ° C. The heating time depends on the temperature, but is usually 5 to 60 minutes.

Next, the tips of the napped naps are melted to form a taper shape.
At this time, one of the advantages of this method is that only the tips of the pricking naps are dissolved and the central portion is not substantially dissolved.
This is achieved by raising the napped naps by centrifugal force in advance as described above, and by setting the viscosity of the solution for treating punctured naps to be high. It is preferable that the solvent treatment liquid penetrates from the tip of the nap to an average of 3 to 5 mm,
It is typically applied in an amount of 100 to 1000 g to m ² . For this reason, it is preferable that the dissolution treatment liquid for standing hair for pricking has a viscosity of 1500 to 15000 cps. If it is less than 1500 cps, the dissolution treatment solution easily penetrates into the central part of the nap, while if it exceeds 15000 cps, uniform dissolution treatment becomes difficult. The viscosity can be adjusted using a sizing agent as in the solvent treatment liquid for fluff. When the napped hair is made of polyester, a treatment liquid containing 25 to 45% by weight of sodium hydroxide can be applied and the hair can be left at about 130 ° C. for 10 to 30 minutes.

The application of the solvent treatment agent for fluff and the solvent treatment agent for stinging can be carried out by a conventional method, for example, various coating methods such as knife coating method, gravure coating method, flat screen method, and rotary method. Printing methods such as a screen method may be mentioned.

The napped product thus obtained is usually then washed,
Subjected to dyeing and post-processing.

Next, the second method for producing the napped product of the present invention will be described.
This includes a solvent that dissolves naps to be fluff and a solvent that dissolves naps to be stabbed on the nap side surface of a nap fabric having two or more types of synthetic fiber naps having different dissolution rates in a solvent. A viscous dissolution treatment solution of 15000 cps is applied, and the cloth is rotated in the gas phase in a wet state on the above-mentioned cylinder, preferably at a low rotation speed gradually or gradually increasing to a high rotation speed. Is the way. It can be heated to increase the dissolution rate. Examples of the heating method include a method of blowing hot air and radiant heating using infrared rays, etc.
Perform at 98-130 ℃ for 10-40 minutes. In order to keep the fabric in a wet state during rotation, moist heat is preferable, and heating with saturated steam is particularly preferable.

Preferably, a common solvent is used for the naps for fluff and the naps for stinging. For example, polyesters having different fineness or different copolymerization composition are used for fluff for fluff and nap for piercing, and sodium hydroxide is used as a solvent for both.

In this method, the viscous dissolution treatment liquid is present from the central portion of the nap to the tip when a relatively small centrifugal force is initially applied, and the nap having a high dissolution rate is cut to form fluff. When the centrifugal force increases, the viscous dissolution treatment liquid moves to the tip of the napped hair, and the tip of the napped hair is tapered. In order for the dissolution treatment solution to move due to the centrifugal force as described above, the dissolution treatment solution must not lose water during the process and be dried. Appropriate centrifugal force is naturally related to the viscosity of the lysate. Generally, when the centrifugal force is lower than 2 G, the viscous dissolution treatment liquid cannot be transferred to the tip portion and the tip of the bristles is less likely to taper. When the centrifugal force exceeds 10 G, the viscous dissolution treatment liquid is rapidly scattered and fluff is generated. Is not formed.

Next, a third method for producing the napped product of the present invention will be described.
This is to apply a low-viscosity dissolution treatment liquid containing a solvent that dissolves naps to be fluff to the nap side surface of a nap fabric having two or more kinds of synthetic fiber naps having different dissolution rates in a solvent, and then piercing. A high-viscosity dissolution treatment liquid containing a solvent that dissolves the naps to be hair is applied, and then fluff formation by dissolution cutting of the naps for fluff and formation of stings by tapering the tip of the naps for pricking are performed. This is a method characterized by allowing the processes to proceed in parallel.

Here, the treatment liquid that dissolves the fluff for fluff has a relatively low viscosity, and the treatment liquid that is applied first and the treatment liquid that dissolves the nap for stabbing hair has a relatively high viscosity. It is important to be applied subsequently (without special drying, heating, etc.).

It is preferable to use a low-viscosity liquid having a viscosity of 300 to 4000 cps among the dissolution treatment liquids.If the viscosity is less than 300 cps, the dissolution treatment liquid has high fluidity, and the whole napped fibers are uniformly exposed to the solution. Can not be processed.
Further, if it exceeds 4000 cps, it becomes difficult to permeate the dissolution treatment solution to a predetermined depth of the napped fiber. On the other hand, it is desirable that the high-viscosity liquid has a viscosity of 1500-15000 cps.
If it is less than ps, the dissolution treatment solution penetrates to the root of the napped fiber,
If it exceeds 15,000 cps, it will be difficult to handle it using an ordinary textile printing machine, and it will be difficult to uniformly apply the dissolution treatment liquid only to the napped surface. The application method for applying such two treatment liquids to the surface of the napped fiber molding is not particularly limited, and various coating methods such as knife coating method and gravure coating method, flat screen method, and printing method such as rotary screen method. Etc.

In the present invention, the two types of viscous dissolution treatment liquids having different viscosities first give a low viscosity liquid and then a high viscosity liquid in a wet state. The low-viscosity liquid is mainly used to dissolve and remove fluff for fluff, which has a fast dissolution rate, from the middle of the nap, for example, and to form fluff, which is visually effective when it is allowed to penetrate to the base fabric surface to about 10 to 15 mm. Fluff is obtained. On the other hand, the high-viscosity liquid dissolves the tip portion of the napped pricking hair to make it into a fine (tapered) shape, and it is preferable that the high-viscosity liquid penetrates from the tip portion of the napped hair to about 3-5 mm. In order to apply the dissolution treatment liquid to such a range, generally, a low viscosity liquid is 1800 to 2100 g / m ² (solid content is 2
00-600 g / m ² ) and a high-viscosity liquid of about 100-500 g / m ² (solid content of 30-150 g / m ² ).

After applying the two dissolution treatment liquids in this manner, the napped hair is dissolved. In order to accelerate the dissolution, it is preferable to perform heating in the same manner as in the above first method.

The napped product obtained can then be washed, dyed and subjected to further processing and the like.

〔The invention's effect〕

The napped product of the present invention has a suitable fluff and sting length distribution that is neither too uniform nor too wide, and has a look and feel similar to natural fur.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described with reference to examples. In the examples, percentages are weight percentages.

Example 1 The base fabric was made of weft polyethylene terephthalate (PET) staple No. 63 twin yarn and warp PET staple No. 63 twin yarn, and the pile yarn was PET150 d / 72f Banron yarn and PE.
A napped cloth having a pile length of 30 mm and a napped density of 8000 fibers / cm ² was prepared, which was made of a mixed yarn of T 130d / 3f. A low-viscosity dissolution treatment liquid having the following composition was uniformly adhered (850 g / m ² ) to the napped side of this napped cloth with a flat screen.

Sodium hydroxide 20% Nikka gum MA-39 (Trademark, sizing agent, Nika Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., solid content 10%) 20% Neolate NCB (Trademark, alkylamine quaternary compound as penetrant, Nika Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) 2% water 58% Viscosity 800cps Next, the fabric was heat-treated at 102 ° C for 30 minutes in a high temperature steamer without being dried, and then washed with water. It was observed that fine naps of 150 d / 72 f were melt-cut.

Next, the cloth was fixed to a hollow cylinder having a diameter of 50 cm and a length of 150 cm with the nap side facing outward. This hollow cylinder can be rotated by a motor, width 1800 cm, depth 1000 cm, height 15
It is stored in a box-shaped container that can be sealed at 00 cm. Rotate the hollow cylinder and apply a centrifugal force of 100 G to the napped hair while
Of air was continuously blown into the box for 20 minutes, then room temperature air was blown for 15 minutes while still spinning, and the spinning was stopped and the fabric was removed.

Next, a high-viscosity dissolution treatment liquid having the following composition was attached (200 g / m ² ) to the tips of the naps using a rotary screen.

Sodium hydroxide 23% Nikka gum MA-39 25% Viscosity 2200 cps The cloth was heat-treated at 130 ° C for 20 minutes in a high temperature steamer without being dried, then washed with water and dried. It was observed that the tip of the stabbing nap was melted and pointed in a taper shape.

The fabric was then padded with the dye liquor using an angle to dye the fabric, combed in one direction with the needle of the comber, dried and heat treated at 160 ° C. for 20 minutes in a high temperature steamer to develop color. After reduction cleaning, soft treatment is performed,
Backing was performed, and finally cotton opening was performed by brushing.

The obtained natural fur-finished hair product has long and thick stabbing hair and short and thin fluff-like napped hair. The length of each of the fluff and the fluff was not unnaturally uniform and was not excessively disjointed, and the hair had a texture similar to that of a natural fur, and the texture of the surface was soft and similar to that of a natural fur. .

The fiber lengths of the stabbed hair and the fluff of this fur product were measured with a fiber length measuring instrument AL-101 (Payer Japan KK). Figures 1 and 2 show the cumulative fiber length distribution of stabbing and fluff.
Shown in the figure. The cumulative distribution was zero percent on the longest fiber side. As can be seen from the figure, the fiber lengths are not uniform and are distributed in a relatively narrow range, and are evenly distributed within that range (almost straight lines in the figure). This distribution makes the napped product of the present invention very similar to natural fur.

Example 2 To the same napped fabric as in Example 1, the solution for fluff cutting used in Example 1 was applied in the same manner as in Example 1.

Next, immediately fix the fabric on the same hollow cylinder as in Example 1,
The solution was dissolved in saturated steam at 130 ° C for 20 minutes while gradually increasing the centrifugal force from 2G to 10G.

After returning to normal pressure while rotating, wash the alkaline paste and alkaline impurities with water from the outside of the hollow cylinder,
Rotate at high speed and give centrifugal force of 100 G to napped hair at 200 ℃
Was continuously blown into the box for 20 minutes, then room temperature air was blown for 15 minutes while still spinning, and the spinning was stopped and the fabric was removed. It was observed that the thin napped hair of 150 d / 72f was melted and cut, and the alkaline glue moved to the tip of the stab when centrifugal force was applied, so that the tip of the stab was evenly tapered. Was done.

Then, dyeing and finishing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1. The cumulative distribution of the length of stabbing and fluff of the obtained napped product is shown in FIGS. 3 and 4.

Example 3 The base fabric was made of weft polyethylene terephthalate staple No. 63 twin yarn and warp polyethylene terephthalate staple No. 63 twin yarn, and the pile yarn was made of PET150 d / 144f Banron yarn and PET130d / 3f.
A low-viscosity dissolution treatment liquid having the following composition was uniformly applied (2000 g / m ² ) to a pile fabric having a mm and a nap density of 8000 fibers / cm ² by using the flat screen method, and immediately after being wet, the composition having the following composition The viscosity dissolution treatment solution was uniformly applied (1000 g / m ² ) using the same flat screen method. By this application, the low-viscosity dissolution treatment liquid penetrated up to about 15 to 20 mm from the napped tip portion, and the high-viscosity dissolution treatment liquid penetrated up to about 3 to 5 mm from the napped tip portion of both dissolution treatment liquids.

The pile fabric with the two solubilized solutions was then dried in a high temperature steamer at 130 ° C (75% humidity) without drying.
It was heat treated for 20 minutes, washed with water and dried.

Low viscosity dissolution treatment solution NaOH 20% Nikka gum MA-39 (10%) 20% Neolate NCB 2% Water 58% Viscosity 800 cps High viscosity dissolution treatment solution NaOH 40% Nikka gum MA-39 (10%) 15% Neolate NCB 2% Water 43% Viscosity 2600 cps The napped part of the obtained artificial fur is composed of long and thick sting hair and short, thin and supple fluff. It was very similar to natural undyed fur and the texture of the napped surface was very soft.

The cumulative distribution of the length of stabbing and fluff of the obtained napped product is shown in FIGS. 5 and 6.

[Brief description of drawings]

1 to 6 are cumulative distribution charts of the lengths of prickly hairs and fluffs of a napped product.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A napped product made of a napped fabric in which napped napped fibers and fluffed napped fibers each made of synthetic fiber are substantially evenly distributed on a base fabric. Difference between the average length of the fibers contained in the frequency of 0 to 5% and the average length of the fibers contained in the same frequency of 95 to 100% in the cumulative distribution of the respective fiber lengths (the longest fiber side is 0%)
(Stabbing) and d (fluff) are 2 <d (stabbing) <10 (mm) 3 <d (fluff) <15 (mm), and the tip of the stabbing napped fiber is tapered In the cumulative fiber length distribution of napped fluff and fluffy napped hair, the cumulative distribution line between the frequencies of 25% and 75% is approximately straight line, and all napped fibers are evenly balanced in one direction. A napped product characterized by being upright. 2. The napped product according to claim 1, wherein 2 <d (stabbing) <8 (mm) 4 <d (fluff) <11 (mm). 3. The napped product according to claim 2, wherein 3 <d (stabbing) <7 (mm) 4 <d (fluff) <8 (mm). 4. The napped product according to claim 1, wherein the cumulative distribution line between the frequencies of 15% and 85% is substantially a straight line.