JPH0663157B2 - Weaving method for vertical stripes - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a weaving method for exposing a vertical stripe pattern on the surface of a fabric by a novel method.

As a method of displaying a vertical stripe pattern on the surface of a woven fabric, two or more kinds of yarns having different colors or two or more kinds of yarns having different dyeability or two kinds of yarns having different boiling water shrinkage ratios are previously prepared. Prepare,
A method of arranging these yarns on a beam of a loom according to a desired design and weaving, or a method of changing a woven structure according to a desired design is known. However, in the former method, it is necessary to prepare two or more kinds of yarns in advance, and there is a drawback that the management of raw yarn or operation management becomes complicated, and in the latter method, the texture is high-grade and the weaving cost is low. It has the drawback of becoming expensive.

The present invention is intended to provide a novel patterning method capable of eliminating the above-mentioned adverse effects of a conventional method, in which a high shrinkage filament having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 11% or more is used in a weight ratio of 30% or more and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10%. % Low shrinkage filament to weight ratio
A mixed multifilament containing less than 70% is used as a warp raw yarn, and a large number of the yarns are treated at a low temperature and a low tension in the sizing step to obtain an A beam, and similarly at a high temperature and a high tension to produce a B beam. Each of them is created, and then both beams are simultaneously set on a warper to obtain a loom beam in which a predetermined number of A-beam yarns and a predetermined number of B-beam yarns are alternately arranged, and this is set on a loom for weaving. It is a summary. Hereinafter, the method of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples shown in the drawings.

FIG. 1 is an explanatory view of a front portion of a sizing apparatus for carrying out the method of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is an explanatory view of a rear portion of the apparatus. In both figures, each raw yarn (2) of the creel (1) enters the delivery part (3) in a parallel state, as is well known, and then enters the sizing part (4), drying chamber (5), cylinder drying or (). 6), and is wound on the pre-beam (7) at the winding section (D).

In the sizing process, the yarn (2) is used in this embodiment.
Polyester filament (40 denier 24 filament) with a boiling water shrinkage of 5.5% and a cross-sectional shape of approximately triangular
And a boiling water shrinkage rate of 16.4%, and a cross-sectional shape of a roughly triangular polyester filament (40 denier 24 filament) were mixed by a twisting and twisting machine with 80 denier 48 filaments (average boiling water shrinkage rate 16.2% ) Is used.

The raw yarn (2) enters the feed roller (8) of the delivery section (3) with a creel tension of 5 to 6 g and a yarn speed of 50 m / min,
The sizing is sequentially performed through each of the above-mentioned mechanisms. Explaining the tension state given to the yarn during this, the feed rate between the feed roller (8) and the sizing roller (9) is + 0.3%, and the sizing roller is (9) and the first
The feed rate between the cylinders (11) is -1.5% and the feed roller (1) of the fifth cylinder (15) and the winding section (D)
The feed rate between 0) is set to ± 0, and the warp tension at the outlet of the second chamber (17) is set to 16 to 18 g / thread.

Further, the temperature will be described. The temperature of the first chamber (16) and the second chamber (17) that form the drying chamber (5) is
The working surface temperatures of the first to fifth cylinders (11) to (15) constituting the cylinder drying zone (6) are set to 80 ° C. at 100 ° C., respectively.

Other processing conditions, such as squeeze pressure, total winding tension, hardness of pre-beam (7), glue temperature, glue receive, amount of glue adhered, etc. are carried out under normal conditions. In this example, the A beam (A) processed under low temperature and low tension is manufactured by setting the conditions in the sizing step as described above.

On the other hand, in the sizing step, the B beam (B) obtained by treating the warp under high temperature and high tension is the A beam (A) described above.
The sizing roller (9) and the first
The feed rate between the cylinders (11) is ± 1.8%, the warp tension at the outlet of the second chamber (17) is set to 64 to 74 g / piece, the temperature of the first chamber (16) is 125 ° C, the second chamber ( The temperature of 17) is set to 130 ° C., and the other conditions, that is, the conditions of the raw yarn or the sizing process, are the same as those for producing the A beam (A).

A beam (A) and B beam (B) obtained as described above
In the case of the present example, are combined in the beaming process shown in FIG. In the figure, the two beams A and B each have a yarn speed of 70 m / min.
Thus, the loom beam (C) is taken up at the same time, but the thread of the B beam (B) is given a tension of 18 g / thread, and the thread of the A beam (A) is given a tension of 23 g / thread. In the case of this example, however, the warping is performed as follows in order to warp the 12/12 beam for the ground stripe. That is, if the A beam (A) in FIG. 3 is A1, A2 and the B beam (B) is B1, B2,
After arranging 12 warps by repeating A1, A2, A1, A2 ------, then arranging 12 warps by repeating B1, B2, B1, B2 ----, and again the original A1, A2 The cycle of returning to the warp arrangement is repeated to form the loom beam (C).

Next, the above-mentioned loom beam (C) is set in a known fly shelter room or water jet room,
Using a polyester filament of d / 48F as the weft, it is woven into a plain weave of warp density × weft density = 96 yarns / inch × 94 yarns / inch.

The raw machine obtained in the above process is a normal processing step, for example, raw machine → scouring (70 ° C to 100 ° C), → drying (120 ° C) → preset (185 to 190 ° C) → alkali reduction processing (18%) → Dry (12
It becomes a product through the process of 0 ℃) → dyeing (130 ℃) → drying (120 ℃) → final set (160 ℃ ~ 170 ℃).

The products obtained by the above-mentioned examples are cloths due to the fact that the warp group of A beam (A) and the warp group of B beam (B) having a difference in thermal history including the tension state are arranged in the weft direction. There is a slight difference in the bulkiness of the surface, and when viewed as a whole, stripes appear on the fabric.

In order to achieve the object of the method of the present invention, it is necessary to cause a difference in the latent bulkiness of the mixed fiber due to a temperature difference and / or a tension difference given in the sizing step, and a normal sizing device is used as an execution device. If you do, boiling water shrinkage as warp yarn
It is necessary to use a mixed fiber yarn containing 11% or more of high shrinkage filaments in a weight ratio of 30% or more and a boiling water shrinkage rate of less than 10% in a weight ratio of less than 70% as a raw yarn. When the warp yarn is inferior in the property, a normal sizing device cannot be used, and the pattern development property of the obtained cloth decreases,
The object of the present invention cannot be achieved.

When the above-mentioned raw yarn conditions are satisfied, the present invention is not limited to the triangular cross-section polyester filaments of the examples, but may be applied to drawn yarns of polyamide, polyester, polypropylene or the like, or semi-drawn yarns, and round-shaped yarns thereof.

However, by appropriately selecting the processing conditions in the warp raw yarn and the sizing step, it is possible to appropriately set the unevenness feeling, the feeling of sharpness, and the partial bulkiness of the cloth surface. It is possible to produce from a striped pattern having an elegant and high-class feeling to a vertical striped pattern having a soccer-like refreshing feeling, which has a smooth striped pattern in the vertical direction and has a lot of grained surfaces except for the smooth striped portion.

According to the present invention described above, various fabrics having warp stripes can be produced by using a specific mixed yarn as the warp original yarn and performing a simple operation of appropriately setting the yarn tension condition in the sizing step. This is possible, and the drawbacks of the conventional method described at the beginning can be eliminated.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 shows an example of an apparatus for carrying out the method of the present invention. FIG. 1 is an explanatory view of a front portion of a sizing device, FIG. 2 is an explanatory view of the rear portion thereof, and FIG. 3 is an explanatory view showing a beaming process. is there. (1) ...... Creel, (2) ...... Raw yarn (3) …… Feeding part, (4) …… Adhesive part (5) …… Drying room, (6) …… Cylinder drying area (7)… … Pre-beam, (8) …… Feed roller (9) …… Sizing roller, (10) …… Feed roller of winding section (11) …… 1st cylinder, (12) …… 2nd cylinder (13) ) …… Third cylinder, (14) …… Fourth cylinder (15) …… Fifth cylinder, (16) …… First chamber (17) …… Second chamber, (A) …… A beam (B ) …… B beam, (C) …… Loom beam (D) …… Winding section

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A mixed multifilament containing a high shrinkage filament having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 11% or more in a weight ratio of 30% or more and a low shrinkage filament having a boiling water shrinkage rate of less than 10% in a weight ratio of less than 70% as a warp raw yarn. In the sizing process, a large number of yarns are processed under low temperature and low tension to produce A beam, and similarly under high temperature and high tension to produce B beam, and then both beams are simultaneously set on a warper. A weaving method comprising: obtaining a loom beam in which a predetermined number of A-beam yarns and a predetermined number of B-beam yarns are alternately arranged, and setting this on a loom and weaving.