JPH0830294B2 - Polyester fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION <Industrial field of application> The present invention relates to a polyester woven fabric in which polyester weft yarns are used as weft yarns and filament flat yarns are used as warp yarns.

<Conventional technology and its problems> A polyester woven fabric in which the weft yarn is a processed yarn and the warp yarn is a flat yarn is a conventional polyester yarn in which a non-drawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of about 1500 m / min is drawn in a separate process. Most of the weft yarns were used as they were and were subjected to false twisting with a pin type false twisting machine, but in recent years, false twisting was started from the pin type false twist of drawn yarn in order to streamline the false twisting process. POY-
It has been changed to drawn false twist, and in the future, there is an urgent need to establish technology for producing good woven fabrics using POY-drawn false twisted yarn.

Generally, when two kinds of warp and weft yarns are interwoven, the effect of the warp and weft yarns appearing on the surface of the woven fabric appears, and when the warp and weft yarns are dyed differently, the colors are different depending on the viewing direction. It is well known that it becomes a woven fabric that can be seen as one, and that it forms a single product field.

However, when two kinds of yarns having the same warp and weft quality, for example, polyester yarns having different dyeing properties are mixed and woven and dyed in the same color, a slight difference in tone between shades often causes disadvantages. .

That is, when sewn as clothing, two identical sewn woven fabrics have different color tones due to different fabric texture angles and uneven defects such as streaks in the warp direction of the woven fabric are enlarged and emphasized due to the difference in color tone. It is a drawback of standing.

In the case of a polyester woven fabric based on a warp and weft co-drawn yarn obtained by a conventional method, the dyeing property is slightly different due to the false twisting of the pins, but it does not cause a big trouble.

However, in the POY-stretched false twisted yarn, when the yarn is woven with the flat yarn, the dyeability shifts further to the deep dyeing side than the pin false twisted yarn, so that the above-mentioned drawbacks are significantly manifested. Particularly, the streak-like defects of the warp are conspicuous, and the quality of the product is deteriorated, which deteriorates the inspection passing rate. Therefore, in the manufacturing process of such a mixed woven fabric, it is necessary to pay sufficient attention to uniformizing the process tension of the yarn. Also, in addition to this, tensor,
It is necessary to eliminate the defects of the heddle and the reed of the guides or the loom as much as possible, and it is the actual situation that a lot of nerves and efforts are put into inspection, cleaning, and replacement of these.

It is natural that these drawbacks are due to the difference in the color density and color tone of the background after dyeing, and it is most easily solved if the same color can be dyed in the dyeing step. However, it is difficult to solve the woven fabric using the same polyester with different dyeability as the background, for example, by using a dyeing aid (a slow dyeing agent, a leveling agent), and the inventors have conducted various studies. It has never been possible to obtain good results.

<Means for Solving Problems> The present invention is woven using a textured yarn by POY-drawn false twist as a weft yarn, using a filament flat yarn having a spinning speed of 6000 to 8000 m / min and a birefringence of 0.1 to 0.12. Provided is a polyester fabric obtained by dyeing.

That is, in the present invention, when a POY-stretched false-twisted yarn is used as a weft and a flat yarn is used as a warp to produce a woven fabric with good color uniformity,
Based on the conclusion that the method of approximating the dyeability of the warp and weft, that is, the method of using the flat yarn having the dyeability similar to that of the POY-drawn false twisted yarn as the warp is the most effective method.

As a conventional polyester flat yarn, an undrawn yarn-
There are drawn yarns and spin-drawn yarns, all of which have a great difference from the dyeability of POY-drawn false twisted yarns on the light dyeing side. On the other hand, it is known that a so-called direct-spun yarn in which the spinning speed is increased and the yarn is directly wound without being drawn can be a yarn which is largely transferred to the deep dyeing side with respect to the drawn yarn. The dye exhaustion rate of each yarn is shown in the following table.

As a result of a comparative study, the inventor uses a yarn of direct spinning under various conditions as a flat yarn for a warp, and as a result, a spinning speed of 6000 to 8000 m / min,
It was found that the flat yarn with the birefringence of 0.1 to 0.12 was the most similar in color to the POY drawn false twisted yarn.

A typical polyester fiber in the present invention consists essentially of polyethylene terephthalate, which is obtained by a known polymerization method. Additives usually used for polyester, such as matting agents, stabilizers, UV absorbers, An antistatic agent or the like may be included. Further, the degree of polymerization is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range for ordinary fiber formation. Further, a copolymer with another component may be used within a range not impairing the object of the present invention.

In the present invention, a spinning speed of less than 6000 m / min, one having a birefringence of less than 0.1 has a low degree of orientation of polymer molecules and insufficient mechanical properties as a fiber, and cannot withstand the tension in the woven fabric manufacturing process. It is not preferable because defects such as warp and weft sink are likely to occur. Those exceeding 0.12 cannot be obtained in the spinning speed range of 6000 to 8000 m / min.

On the other hand, if the spinning speed exceeds 8000 m / min, the spinning technique is difficult and sufficient yarn cannot be collected to achieve the object of the present invention.

As a typical example of filament flat yarn that can be used for the warp of the present invention, there is JP-A-57-121613.
Further, as a typical example of the textured yarn by POY-stretched false twist used for the weft of the present invention, a polyester semi-unstretched yarn spun at a winding speed of 2500 m / min or more as shown in JP-A-59-125933 is used. Filament processing technology issued by Manufacture There are processed yarns that are drawn and false twisted by a spindle type DTY machine shown in Chapter 4 of the second volume. The drawn false-twisted yarn by the friction direct twist type DTY machine shown in Chapter 4 is not preferable because the dye exhaustion rate of the processed yarn greatly changes as the false-twisting condition changes.

<Example> Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples.
The characteristic values described in the examples and the methods for determining the warp and weft color tone differences are as follows.

(Birefringence Δn) Using a transmission quantitative interference microscope (Carl Zeiss Jena, East Germany), a green light beam (wavelength: 549 m) by the interference fringe method.
μ) was used to measure the birefringence index n ″ parallel to the fiber axis and the refraction index n⊥ perpendicular to the fiber axis, and the birefringence index Δn = n ″ −n⊥ was obtained.

(Dye exhaustion rate) Disperse dye Resorishi Blue FBL was used, and dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. for 10 minutes with 3% owf and a bath ratio of 1:50. After dyeing, collect the dyeing solution,
The amount of dye in the residual liquid was calculated from the absorbance, and the dye exhaustion rate was calculated using this as the amount of dyeing used for dyeing. In addition, the sample was made with each yarn as a single knitted fabric and scored with a score roll FC2gr / l.
It was scoured at 0 ° C for 20 minutes, dried, and conditioned (20 ° C x 65% RH).

(Difference in color tone of warp and weft) To determine defects due to poor color uniformity in the weft and weft, cut the same woven fabric and stick them by shifting the yarn shaft (warp) 3 directions by 45 ° as shown in Fig. 1A, and as shown in Fig. 1B. The difference in color tone when viewed with the naked eye 2 at a viewing angle of 45 ° under the natural light 1 of the north window was visually judged. Separately, the visual qualities (longitudinal direction, streak defects) were also visually determined. Evaluation of color tone difference and quality was performed by five evaluators based on the following criteria.

Good: ○, Slightly bad: △, Poor: × Examples 1 and 2, Comparative Examples 1 and 2, spinning speed of 7000 m / min, birefringence of 0.12 and spinning speed of 8000 m / for warps.
Polyester filament flat yarn 75d / 36f having a birefringence of 0.107 and POY-drawn false twisted yarn 100d / 48f as weft yarn, and weaving a plain weave in a water jet room under the weaving conditions shown in Table 1, Each experiment No. was processed for 500 m under the dyeing processing conditions shown in Table 2. Table 3 shows the results of judgment and comparison regarding the warp quality and the difference in color tone after dyeing.

As is apparent from Table 3, the experiments that are examples of the present invention
In Nos. 3 and 4, woven fabrics having good warp quality and excellent background color uniformity were obtained. On the other hand, in Experiment No. 5, which is a comparative example, the warp properties were unstable and warp defects were generated, so that the warp quality was poor and the warp and weft homogeneity was poor with a color tone difference.

<Effects of the Invention> As will be seen from the examples, the woven fabric of the present invention has a spinning speed of 6000 to 8000 in which the weft yarns are POY stretched false twisted yarns and the warp yarns have similar dyeing properties.
By using filament flat yarn having m / min and birefringence of 0.1 to 0.12, a polyester woven fabric having good homochromaticity without defects of warp quality and defects of difference in color tone of weft and weft can be obtained.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIGS. 1A and 1B are explanatory views of a method for determining a color difference between the background and the latitude and a quality of the background according to the present invention. In each figure, 1 ... north window lighting, 2 ... naked eye, 3 ... woven fabric in which the same woven fabric is cut and the yarn axis (warp) direction is shifted by 45 °

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A weft yarn is a textured yarn produced by POY-drawing false twist, and a warp yarn is a filament flat yarn having a spinning speed of 6000 to 8000 m / min and a birefringence of 0.1 to 0.12, and then dyed. Polyester fabric