JPH11279896A - Special polyester multifilament combined filament yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a combined filament yarn having softness and a dry feeling, useful as a material for female clothing by blending a polyester self-elongating multifilament yarn having specific fine channels on the surface with a polyester heat shrinkable multifilament yarn. SOLUTION: A polyester self-elongating multifilament yarn A having 5-30 fine channels based on 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the axis, extending in the axial direction, having 0.3-1.0 μm width and 3-10 fine channels based on 10 μm in the axial direction extending in the direction perpendicular to the axis, having the maximum depth from the surface to the deepest part of 1.5×d<1/2> to 4.5×d<1/2> ((d) is a single yarn denier) and 1.50×d<1/2> to 4.00×d<1/2> ((d) is as shown above) width on the surface is blended with a polyester multifilament yarn B having a difference of yarn length >=5% shorter than the multifilament A in a dry hot shrinkage percentage SHD at 160 deg.C satisfying the conditions of SHD(A)<=0, SHD(B)>=0 and SHD(B)-SHD(A)>=5% and in a hot water shrinkage percentage SHW at 75 deg.C satisfying SHW75(A) >=0 at 20<=Di (degree of interlacement) to give the objective combined filament yarn.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a blended yarn of a self-expanding yarn and a heat-shrinkable yarn. The present invention relates to a polyester special mixed yarn for obtaining a fabric suitable for women's clothing, etc., which satisfies the properties, tightness, bulkiness, and mechanical properties.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As a method for imparting a silky texture to a polyester filament cloth, a different shrinkage mixed fiber composed of two or more kinds of multifilaments having different heat shrinkage characteristics is known. Although the mixed fiber exhibits sufficient bulkiness due to the difference in heat shrinkage properties between the constituent multifilaments if heat-treated as a yarn under no load, it is sufficiently sufficient for heat treatment under woven fabric restraint. In some cases, bulkiness was not exhibited, and the softness and swelling were not satisfactory. In order to solve such a problem of the conventional different shrink mixed yarns, a mixed yarn composed of a polyester multifilament group which does not shrink by heat treatment or substantially heat elongates has been proposed. Unlike the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns of the above, the fibers exhibit sufficient bulkiness even in the heat treatment under the constraint of the fabric, and have improved softness and swelling. However, the mixed fiber as described above is sufficient in the softness and swelling feeling of the texture, but since the fiber surface is even, the dryness and water absorption as seen in natural fiber fabrics are poor. Was something.

In addition, various attempts have been made to improve a mixed yarn composed of a group of polyester multifilaments which are substantially thermally elongated by a conventional heat treatment. For example, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 6-25932, if a fabric has a thick and thin spot in the fiber axis direction, when it is made into a woven fabric, it is possible to remove a slimy feeling and to exhibit a dry feeling. When the fiber surface was flat, it was not satisfactory in terms of skin separation and absorption. Also,
As disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 8-158195, if the polyester multi-fiber has a fine groove extending at right angles to the fiber axis direction of the polyester multi-fiber which is substantially thermally expanded, the slimy feeling is removed when the woven fabric is formed. Can produce a dry feeling, but the dry feeling is exhibited only by the effect of the fine grooves extending at right angles to the fiber axis direction, so the number of fine grooves in the fiber length direction When the number of fibers increases or the microgrooves on the fiber surface grow excessively, the yarn is considerably damaged, and the flexural rigidity and elastic mechanical properties are poor. May cause a decrease in tear strength.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problem, and has a structure in which continuous fine grooves extending in parallel to the fiber axis direction of a polyester heat-expandable fiber substantially extend in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction. By providing a fine groove extending to the dyed fabric, a soft feeling and a dry feeling appear after being made into a dyed fabric, and furthermore, the skin releasability and the water absorption are improved, while taking advantage of the effect of the polyester multifilament yarn. Another object of the present invention is to obtain a dyed fabric that satisfies a feeling of tightness, a bulky feeling, and mechanical characteristics when the dyed fabric is used.

[0005]

That is, the first invention provides a polyester multifilament yarn (A) having continuous fine grooves extending in the fiber axis direction and fine grooves extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction on the fiber surface. A special polyester multifilament mixed yarn comprising a polyester multifilament yarn (B) having a yarn foot difference of 5% or more and a smaller yarn foot than the polyester multifilament (A), Specifically, on the fiber surface of the polyester multifilament yarn (A), continuous fine grooves extending in the fiber axis direction are the following (a) to (b), and fine grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction are the following ( c)
To (e), wherein the cross-sectional area ratio of the special polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) described above is 1/1 to 1/1 /. 3 is a special polyester multifilament mixed fiber yarn described above. (A) The width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface 0.3 to 1.0 μm (b) The number of fine grooves per 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis 5 to 30 (c) From the fiber surface to the deepest part of the fine grooves 1.50 × d ^{1/2 to} 4.50 × d ^1/2 μm (where d is the single denier of the polyester multifilament yarn (A) having fine grooves) (d) Fine grooves on the fiber surface 1.50 × d ^{1/2 to} 4.00 × d ^1/2 μm (e) The number of fine grooves per 10 μm in the fiber axis direction 3 to 10 Also, the second invention is a polyester multifilament yarn (A) and a polyester multifilament. A special polyester multifilament mixed yarn, wherein the filament yarn (B) is an interlaced mixed yarn satisfying the following formulas (1) to (5). Specifically, the polyester multifilament yarn (A) Polyester multifiller The special polyester multifilament mixed yarn described above, wherein the cross-sectional area ratio of the ment yarn (B) is 1/1 to 1/3. SHD (A) ≦ 0 [%] ……………………… (1) SHD (B) ≧ 0 [%] …………………………… ... (2) SHD (B)-SHD (A) ≥ 5 [%] ... (3) SHW75 (A) ≥ 0 [%] ... (4) 20 ≦ Di [q / m] ≦ 100 (5) However, SHD (A) is a polyester multifilament yarn (A). 160 ° C dry heat shrinkage [%] and SHW
75 (A) is a polyester multifilament yarn (A)
75 ° C. hot water shrinkage [%]. SHD (B) is the dry heat shrinkage [%] of the polyester multifilament yarn (B) at 160 ° C. Di indicates the degree of entanglement of the mixed fiber [ke / m].

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. First, the special polyester multifilament mixed yarn of the second invention will be described. The polyester multifilament yarn (A) in the second invention has a dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. of 0%.
[%] Is a multifilament exhibiting substantially self-extensibility. When the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. is larger than 0%, SHD (A)> 0%, after weaving,
The property of heat shrinkage during the dyeing process enhances the binding force of the fabric, resulting in a texture effect, and satisfactory softness and swelling cannot be obtained. Tension and bulkiness are effective due to the presence of the polyester multifilament (B). However, the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. of the polyester multifilament (B) is 0.
[%] Or more {SHD (B) ≧ 0 [%]} is important.

In the second invention, the difference in the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. between the polyester multifilament (B) and the polyester multifilament (A) is not less than 5% [SHD (B) −SHD (A) ≧ 5%] is required. If it is less than 5%, a sufficient difference in yarn length cannot be obtained, and satisfactory softness and swelling cannot be obtained. More preferably, 10% or more is required. Further, the hot water shrinkage at 75 (° C.) of the polyester multifilament yarn (A) in the present invention is 0.
It is important that [SHW75 (A) ≧ 0 [%]} or more. If the SHW75 (A) is less than 0%, that is, if it has self-extensibility at that temperature, the heat is applied to the polyester multifilament yarn (B) and the yarn at the stage of setting the twist-preventing glue. The difference in length is developed, which impairs the processability in the weaving process, which is not preferable. Further, the special polyester multifilament mixed yarn of the present invention is obtained by a Di method according to a measurement method described later.
Is not less than 20 [ke / m] and not more than 100 [ke / m]. If it is less than 20 [ke / m], the integrity between the filament groups constituting the mixed yarn becomes insufficient, and the handling and passing properties in post-processing deteriorate. 100
Exceeding [q / m] is not preferable because extreme hardening of the texture and appearance of the cloth called moiré spots occur.
A more preferable range of Di is 3 [ke / m] or more and 80 or more.
[Q / m] or less.

Next, in the special polyester multifilament yarn (A) according to the first aspect of the present invention, fine grooves extending continuously in parallel with the fiber axis direction are formed as follows:
(B) The feature is that the fine grooves extending perpendicular to the fiber axis direction satisfy the following (c) to (e). (A) The width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface 0.3 to 1.0 μm (b) The number of fine grooves per 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis 5 to 30 (c) From the fiber surface to the deepest part of the fine grooves 1.50 × d ^{1/2 to} 4.50 × d ^1/2 μm (where d is the single denier of the polyester multifilament yarn (A) having fine grooves) (d) Fine grooves on the fiber surface 1.50 × d ^{1/2 to} 4.00 × d ^1/2 μm (e) Number of micro grooves per 10 μm in fiber axis direction 3 to 10

Regarding the fine grooves extending continuously in parallel with the fiber axis direction, it is important that the width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface satisfies the above range. When the width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface is less than 0.3 μm, a slight improvement in texture can be expected, but with respect to dry feeling and skin releasability, the characteristics are not significantly different from those of the conventional polyester woven or knitted fabric. . Further, when the width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface is larger than 1.0 μm, although the dry feeling and skin releasability are remarkably improved, a single yarn breakage or fibril is generated in a part of the filament, so It is not preferable because it may cause a decrease in tear strength. The range of the width of the fine groove is preferably from 0.3 to 1.0 μm, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.0 μm.
It is in the range of 5 to 1.0 μm. When the number of the fine grooves per 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is less than 5 for the fine grooves continuously extending in parallel to the fiber axis direction, the dry feeling and the skin separation property are the same as described above. ,
Its properties are not much different from the conventional polyester woven or knitted fabric. If the number of microgrooves per 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is more than 30, it means that the size of each microgroove is reduced accordingly, so that the effect can be sufficiently exerted. It cannot provide excellent dry feeling and skin releasability. The number of fine grooves per 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is 5 to 3
The number is preferably 0, more preferably 5 to 25. Therefore, finally, it is preferable to control the width and the number of the fine grooves in a well-balanced manner within the above range.

In a fine groove extending at right angles to the fiber axis direction
The fine grooves on the fiber surface satisfy the above range
It's important to. Fine groove fibers on the fiber surface
The maximum depth from the surface to the deepest part is 1.50 × d^1/2less than μm
If it is within the range, a slight improvement in dry feeling can be expected,
Its water absorption is much different from conventional polyester woven or knitted fabric.
And a polyether with an excellent dry feeling which is the object of the present invention.
You cannot get steal knitting. The maximum depth is 4.
50 × d^1/2If it is larger than μm, the dry feeling is
The group improves, but the depth of the groove is too
Tear strength when woven and knitted
Force, or the appearance of woven or knitted fabrics
It is not preferable because it may cause waking. The maximum depth is 1.50x
d^1/2~ 4.50 × d^1/2μm range, more preferably 2.50
× d^1/2~ 4.00 × d^1/2in the range of μm.
Control the depth from the fiber surface to the deepest point.
Is preferred. The width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface is 1.
50 × d^1/2If it is less than μm, polyester woven
The dryness of the knitted fabric is not satisfactory,
There is no great difference compared with the ester woven or knitted fabric,
To obtain a polyester woven or knitted fabric with excellent dry feeling
I can't do this. The width of the fine groove is 4.00 × d ^1/2Greater than
When dry, the dry feeling of the polyester woven or knitted fabric is sufficient
But a self-extensible filament with surface microgrooves
Multifilament yarn itself has reduced yarn strength, bending properties,
Insufficient strength in the shear direction appears, and as a result
May cause damage to the appearance of the woven or knitted fabric.
Not good. The width of the fine groove is 1.50 × d^1/2~ 4.00 × d
^1/2μm, more preferably in the range of
2.00 × d^1/2~ 3.00 × d^1/2This is in the μm range.
Good. In addition, fine
The number of grooves to be formed depends on the number of self-extensible
There are 3 to 10 filament yarns per 10 μm length
That gives the polyester woven and knitted fabric an excellent dry feeling,
Considering the appearance quality and general consumption performance of the woven or knitted fabric,
It is an effective range. The number of fine surface grooves is equivalent to 10 μm yarn length.
If less than 3 pieces, sufficient dough for polyester woven or knitted fabric
It is difficult to give a lie feeling.
More than 10 pieces give a sufficient dry feeling
However, it is difficult to secure the strength of single yarn,
Not suitable for use. The number of fine surface grooves is equivalent to 10 μm yarn length.
3 to 10 yarns, preferably 4 yarns per 10 μm length
By controlling in the range of ~ 8,
Can maintain the dryness and practical strength of tell-woven fabric
It works.

The filament monofilament denier constituting the polyester multifilament yarn (A) of the present invention is preferably not too large in order to exhibit a soft feeling, and is preferably 5 denier or less, more preferably 3 denier or less. . In addition, the filament single fiber denier constituting the polyester multifilament yarn (B) is preferably 1 denier or more and 6 denier or less, more preferably 2 denier or more and 5 denier or less.
If it is less than 1 denier, the feeling of tightness of the fabric is insufficient, and if it is more than 6 denier, a rough and hard feeling appears, which is not preferable. The cross-sectional shape of the filament constituting the polyester multifilament of the present invention can be applied to any non-circular cross section such as a hollow cross section, a triangular to octagonal cross section, and various cross sections in addition to a circular cross section.

The polyester multifilament yarn (A) of the present invention preferably contains 0.5 to 5% by weight of a polyalkylene glycol or a derivative thereof in the fiber.
The polyester multifilament containing the polyalkylene glycol or a derivative thereof forms continuous fine grooves extending parallel to the fiber axis direction on the filament surface after the alkali weight reduction. The above-mentioned special polyester multifilament yarn (A) has an average particle diameter of 0.2 to
It is preferable to contain 0.5 to 3.0% by weight of 2.0 μm kaolinite. Polyester multifilaments containing kaolinite are conventionally known to form micropores on the filament surface after alkali reduction. In particular, regarding the special polyester multifilament yarn (A), when the kaolinite forms fine grooves extending at right angles to the fiber axis direction of alkali reduction,
It will play an effective role. Similarly, the polyester multifilament yarn (B) may contain the polyalkylene glycol or a derivative thereof and / or the kaolinite.

As long as the polyalkylene glycol or its derivative and the kaolinite are included, the special polyester multifilament mixed yarn of the present invention may be any one of the polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B). By using a special polyester multifilament mixed yarn which is a copolymerized polyester of a cationic dye dyeable polyester and a normal pressure cationic dye dyeable polyester, a more preferable appearance effect can be obtained. Examples of the copolymerization component include polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with an isophthalic acid component and polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. When the polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) are the special polyester multifilament mixed yarn having the same first arrival property, and the polyester multifilament yarn (A) or the polyester multifilament yarn (B) Either one is cationic dye dyeable polyester, compared with the case of copolyester multifilament yarn such as room temperature cationic dye dyeable polyester,
The latter can bring out a more complex color appearance due to the difference in arrival. Furthermore, a small amount of a matting agent such as titanium oxide, an antistatic agent, or the like may be added to the polyester described herein.

The ratio of the cross-sectional areas of the polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) constituting the special polyester multifilament mixed yarn of the present invention is preferably 1/1 to 1/3.
When the ratio of the cross-sectional area of the polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) constituting the special blended yarn is less than 1/1, the feeling of tightness is insufficient, which is not preferable. If it exceeds, the feeling of tightness is satisfied, but it is not preferable in softness, dryness and appearance.

The method for producing the polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the special mixed fiber yarn of the present invention will be described. The polyester multifilament yarn (A) in the second invention can be obtained by subjecting an undrawn yarn obtained by subjecting a polyester to a conventional melt spinning method to a relaxation heat treatment at a relaxation rate of 0 to 60%. The intrinsic viscosity [μ] of the polyester resin used as a raw material when the special polyester multifilament undrawn yarn is melt-spun is not particularly limited, but in order to impart practical strength to the woven or knitted material, it is 0.55 or more. The take-up speed in melt spinning to obtain the special polyester multifilament undrawn yarn is preferably 2,000 to 4,000 [m
/ Min] as a partially oriented undrawn yarn.

The polyester multifilament yarn (A) of the second invention can be obtained by subjecting the polyester multifilament undrawn yarn to a relaxation heat treatment at a relaxation rate of 0 to 60%. It is effective to use a dry heat non-contact heater or a contact heater in consideration of productivity. Next, in order to reduce the SHD of the partially drawn yarn to 0% or less, it is preferable to reduce only the degree of orientation without increasing the degree of crystallinity as much as possible. To briefly explain the relaxation heat treatment method, first, the partially drawn yarn obtained by the above-described drawing method is supplied to a roller where relaxation is started. The temperature of the roller at which relaxation is started is set from room temperature in an uncontrolled state to around the glass transition temperature of polyester + 10 ° C. A non-contact heater is provided between the roller where the relaxation is started and the take-up roller, and a relaxation heat treatment is performed between the heaters. In this case, the temperature of the non-contact heater is preferably a temperature that does not increase the crystallinity as much as possible.
[° C.] or lower. There is no particular problem in the relaxation rate as long as the running yarn is in a stable range.
-60%, more preferably 5-50%
Is preferably within the range. However, when the relaxation rate exceeds 60%, the thermal elongation characteristics of the yarn become too large, and the yarn exhibits thermal elongation in the twist setting heat setting stage, and a yarn length difference from the polyester multifilament yarn (B) appears. In addition, the processability in weaving deteriorates, which is not preferable.

The polyester multi-filament yarn (A) of the second invention obtained as described above is mixed with a polyester multi-filament yarn (B) having a dry heat shrinkage SHD at 160 ° C. of 0% or more. You. The polyester multifilament yarn (B) is a so-called polyester multifilament drawn yarn, and its production method is a drawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning and drawing polyester.
However, the heat history at the time of stretching may be reduced as much as possible, and may have high shrinkage characteristics. Further, the difference in dry heat shrinkage SHD between the polyester multifilament yarn (B) and the polyester multifilament yarn (A) is preferably at least 5% or more. If it is less than 5%, a sufficient yarn foot difference cannot be obtained, and no satisfactory softness and bulky feeling can be obtained. More preferably, it is 10% or more. The polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) are mixed after the above-mentioned relaxation heat treatment, continuously or separately by fluid entanglement treatment and winding. In this case, it is necessary that a known interlace nozzle and a Taslan nozzle are used as the fluid entanglement processing apparatus, and the Di measured by a measurement method described later is 20 [ke / m] or more and 100 [ke / m] or less. If it is less than 20 [ke / m], the integrity between the filament groups constituting the mixed fiber becomes insufficient, and the handling and passing property in post-processing deteriorate. If it exceeds 100 [ke / m], it is not preferable because of extremely hardening of the texture and appearance of a fabric called moire spots. A more preferable range of Di is 30 [ke / m] or more and 80 [ke / m] or less. It is also preferred that the special polyester multifilament mixed yarn of the present invention is twisted to be used as a fabric, and it becomes more natural in terms of texture and appearance. In addition, it is also preferable that the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to alkali weight reduction in the dyeing step from the viewpoint of softening the texture.

The knitting and weaving is performed by using at least a part of the special polyester multifilament mixed fiber according to the second invention obtained by the above method, and the polyester multifilament is subjected to post-processing such as ordinary dyeing and alkali reduction treatment. The yarn (A) self-stretches, while the polyester multifilament yarn (B) thermally shrinks, and further has fine grooves on the fiber surface of the polyester multifilament yarn (A) in the fiber axis direction and the perpendicular direction. It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric constituting such a special polyester multifilament mixed yarn. Next, the yarn foot difference in the present invention, SH
A method for measuring D, SHW75, and Di will be described.

(Yarn Foot Difference) A mixed fiber is extracted from the fabric.
Cut to a length of 0 mm, high-density denier × 0.1 [g /
[Denier] is measured under a load. In this state, the core yarn is cut while leaving the slack sheath yarn, and the denier of the self-extended yarn × 0.1 [g / denier]
And the yarn length (LL) is measured again, and the yarn foot difference is determined by the following equation. Yarn difference (%) = {(LL-SL) / SL} x 100 (SHD) Initial load 0.1 with a wrap reel around a suitable frame
Remove the 8 turns of the scalpel with [g / denier] and add 1 /
A load of 30 [g / denier] is applied and its length L0 [m
m] is measured. Then remove the load, 0.00
With the load of 1 [g / denier] applied, the moss is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes. After that, the moss was taken out of the boiling water, dried at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then dried.
Dry heat 160 with a load of 1 [g / denier] applied
Heat treatment in an oven at [° C]. Then, after cooling,
/ 30 [g / denier] and apply a length L1 [m
m] is measured. The dry heat shrinkage (SHD) is given by the following equation. SHD [%] = (L0−L1) × 100 / L0 (SHW75) Initial load 0.1 on a wrap reel around an appropriate frame
A 30-turn scab is taken with [g / denier], a weight 40 times the initial load is applied, and the length L3 is measured. The weight is then removed and the hot water (7
(5 ° C.) for 30 minutes, then taken out, wiped off with a cotton cloth or the like, and air-dried horizontally. After the dry air, a load is applied again to measure the length L4. The above formulas L3 and L4 are substituted into the following formula, and the boiling water shrinkage (SHW75) is measured. SHW75 [%] = (L3-L4) × 100 / L3 (Di) Take out a yarn of an appropriate length and put 0.1 [g
/ Denier] and a vertical needle is protruded into the yarn, and the distance L [cm] for slowly lifting and moving until the load is lifted is calculated by the following formula. Di [pieces / m] = 100 / (2 × L)

The special polyester multifilament mixed yarn of the present invention has a dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. of 0% or less and has continuous fine grooves extending parallel to the fiber axis direction and fine grooves extending at right angles to the fiber axis direction. A special polyester multifilament yarn comprising: a special polyester multifilament yarn (A) having the following characteristics: and a polyester multifilament yarn (B) having a dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. of 0% or more. The woven or knitted fabric using the special polyester multifilament mixed yarn is characterized by soft feeling, peeling property, dry feeling and moderate tension. The fine groove on the fiber surface of A) is 10 times at the time of dyeing.
An alkali weight reduction of ~ 35% is essential. The alkali weight reduction treatment is performed using a jet dyeing machine or the like, and the alkali hydrolysis reaction is uniformly performed over the entire polyester woven or knitted fabric while stirring the polyester woven or knitted fabric in an aqueous solution of an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide. It is preferred that the treatment be carried out so that is promoted. Suitable alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and the like, and most preferred is sodium hydroxide.

When the alkali weight reduction rate is less than 10%, the voids between the polyester multifilament yarns forming the polyester woven or knitted fabric remain small, and the woven or knitted fabric cannot be given an appropriate soft feeling. The formation of fine grooves on the surface of the filament yarn A is also light, and a dry feeling cannot be imparted to the polyester woven or knitted fabric. Further, when the alkali weight reduction rate exceeds 30%, the formation of fine grooves progresses excessively, causing breakage of single yarn due to embrittlement of the filament yarn, a reduction in the appearance quality of the woven or knitted fabric, a decrease in tear strength, and a further increase in tension. Wake up is not preferred. Weight loss rate by alkali weight reduction treatment is 10-30
%, More preferably 15 to 25%, makes it possible to impart a soft feeling, a dry feeling and an appropriate tension to the polyester woven or knitted fabric.

The text and the fine grooves on the fiber surface used are based on the following observation and measurement. Fine groove on fiber surface Using a S-501 type scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., observe the surface of the woven or knitted fabric after magnifying 800 times and reducing alkali by alkali, and continue in parallel to the fiber axis direction. Width of fine grooves extending perpendicular to the fiber axis, the number of fine grooves per 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis, the maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest part of the fine grooves extending perpendicular to the fiber axis direction, the fine grooves on the fiber surface , The length of the fine grooves, and the number of fine grooves formed per 10 μm of the yarn length. The measured average value of 30 or more points was used as each measured value.

[0023]

Embodiments Embodiments 1 to 3 of the present invention will be described below. Example 1 1.5% by weight of polyethylene glycol from a spinning nozzle
Melt spinning of the polyethylene terephthalate contained, 6
A yarn consisting of 0 denier / 18 filaments was wound up at a spinning speed of 3000 [m / min] to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn. The obtained highly oriented undrawn yarn is supplied at a supply roller temperature of 10
0 [° C] and sent to the take-off roller at an overfeed rate of 20 [%].
Relaxation heat treatment was performed with a non-contact heater heated to [° C] to obtain a special polyester multifilament yarn (A). SH of the polyester multifilament yarn (A)
D (A) was -6.2 [%]. Next, polyethylene terephthalate is melt-spun from a spinning nozzle, and a yarn composed of 100 denier / 30 filaments is spun at a spinning speed of 32.
Winding was performed at 00 [m / min] to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn. Next, the obtained highly oriented undrawn yarn is drawn by using a drawing machine to obtain a polyester multifilament yarn (B).
I got The SHD (B) of the polyester multifilament yarn (B) was 14.7%. After blending the special polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B), 1400 [times /
m], and woven into a plain woven fabric, reduced with alkali, dyed with a disperse dye, and subjected to a dry heat relaxation treatment at 120 ° C. The obtained dyed product was evaluated, and as a result, it was found to be excellent in softness, swelling, and tightness, and had an appropriate dryness. In the special polyester multifilament yarn (A), continuous fine grooves extending parallel to the fiber axis direction were confirmed, and the width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface was 0.5 (μm).
The number of the fine grooves per 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis was 18. Further, the average of the maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest part of the fine groove extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is 2.5 d ^1/2 (μm), and the average of the fine groove width on the fiber surface is 2.8 d ^{1. / 2} (μm), and the number of fine grooves per 10 μm of yarn length was 4.

Example 2 A special polyester multifilament yarn (A) described in Example 1 was changed to a polyethylene terephthalate containing 2.0% by weight of kaolinite having an average particle size of 0.3 μm. A polyester multifilament yarn (A2) was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. SHD of the special polyester multifilament yarn (A2)
(A2) was -5.4 [%]. The polyester multifilament yarn (B) described in Example 1 was blended in the same manner as in Example 1 and then woven to form a plain fabric, which was then subjected to alkali weight reduction processing, dyed with a disperse dye, and heated at 120 ° C. Dry heat relaxation treatment was performed. As a result of evaluating the obtained dyeing process, moderate softness, swelling,
It had a tight feeling and exhibited particularly excellent dry feeling. In the special polyester multifilament yarn (A2), continuous fine grooves extending parallel to the fiber axis direction were confirmed, and the width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface was 0.8 (μm). Vertical direction 10μ
The number of fine grooves per m was 25. Further, the average of the maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest part of the fine groove extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is 3.6 d ^1/2 (μm), and the average of the fine groove width on the fiber surface is 3.3 d ^{1. / 2} (μ
m), the number of fine grooves per 10 μm of yarn length was 8.

Example 3 In the special polyester multifilament yarn (A2) described in Example 2 and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) described in Example 1, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid was added in an amount of 1.0 mol% by weight. Polyester multifilament yarn (B2) changed to copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate was mixed in the same manner as in Example 1. SHD (B2) of polyester multifilament yarn (B2)
After 16.7%, the fabric was woven into a plain woven fabric, subjected to alkali weight reduction processing, dyed with a disperse dye, and subjected to a dry heat relaxation treatment at 120 ° C. As a result of evaluating the obtained dyed product, it was found to be excellent in a soft feeling and a swelling feeling, had an appropriate tension and a feeling of dryness, and exhibited particularly excellent dry feeling and color appearance. In the special polyester multifilament yarn (A2) in this example, continuous fine grooves extending parallel to the fiber axis direction were confirmed, and the width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface was 0.7 (μm), On the other hand, the number of fine grooves per 10 μm in the vertical direction was 23. Furthermore, the average of the maximum depth from the fiber surface to the deepest part of the fine groove extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis is 3.3d.
^1/2 (μm), average of fine groove width on fiber surface is 3.
The number of the fine grooves per 0d ^1/2 (μm) and the yarn length of 10 μm was 6.

Comparative Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate was melt-spun from a spinning nozzle, and a yarn consisting of 60 denier / 18 filaments was wound up at a spinning speed of 2800 [m / min] to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn. Next, the obtained highly oriented unstretched yarn is fed to a take-up roller at an overfeed rate of 0 [%] at a room temperature where the supply roller temperature is not substantially controlled, and the non-contact heated at 210 [° C] between the two rollers. A relaxation heat treatment was performed with a mold heater to obtain a polyester multifilament yarn (A3). The SHD of the polyester multifilament yarn (A3) after the relaxation heat treatment was 2.8%. The polyester multifilament yarn (A3) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) described in Example 1 were blended in the same manner as in Example 1, and then woven into a plain woven fabric, alkali-reduced, and dyed with a disperse dye. , 1
A dry heat relaxation treatment at 20 ° C. was performed. As a result of evaluating the obtained dyeing treatment, it was found that the fabric lacked a soft feeling and a swelling feeling, did not exhibit a dry feeling, and had a hard and flat fabric texture. Further, in the polyester multifilament yarn (A3) of this example, continuous fine grooves extending parallel to the fiber axis direction and fine grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction were not observed.

Comparative Example 2 1.5% by weight of polyethylene glycol from a spinning nozzle
Melt spinning of the polyethylene terephthalate contained, 6
A yarn consisting of 0 denier / 18 filaments was wound up at a spinning speed of 3000 [m / min] to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn. The obtained highly oriented unstretched yarn is then sent to a take-up roller at an overfeed ratio of 0 [%] with the obtained highly oriented unstretched yarn at room temperature without substantially controlling the temperature of the supply roller. Relaxation heat treatment was performed with a non-contact type heater heated to [° C] to obtain a polyester multifilament yarn (A4). SHD after relaxation heat treatment of the polyester multifilament yarn (A4)
Was 4.4 [%]. The polyester multifilament yarn (A4) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) described in Example 1 were blended in the same manner as in Example 1, and then woven into a plain fabric, alkali-reduced, and dyed with a disperse dye. And a dry heat relaxation treatment at 120 ° C. As a result of evaluation of the obtained dyed product, the product had a slight dry feeling, but lacked a soft feeling and a swelling feeling, and the fabric texture was hard and flat. In addition, the polyester multifilament yarn (A4) of this example
In the above, a continuous fine groove extending parallel to the axial direction was confirmed, and the width of the fine groove on the fiber surface was 0.3
(Μm), the number of fine grooves per 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis was 24. Also, no fine grooves extending in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis were found.

Comparative Example 3 1.5% by weight of polyethylene glycol from a spinning nozzle
Melt spinning of the polyethylene terephthalate contained, 6
A yarn consisting of 0 denier / 18 filaments was wound up at a spinning speed of 3000 [m / min] to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn. Next, the obtained highly oriented undrawn yarn was brought to room temperature where the supply roller temperature was not substantially controlled, and the overfeed ratio was set to 8
At 0%, it is sent to a take-off roller, and a relaxation heat treatment is applied to a middle of the two rollers by a non-contact type heater heated to 200 ° C. to obtain a polyester multifilament yarn (A
5) was obtained. The polyester multifilament yarn (A
The SHD after the relaxation heat treatment in 5) was -7.1 [%]. The polyester multifilament yarn (A5) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) described in Example 1 were mixed in the same manner as in Example 1, and then woven to obtain a plain fabric. However, at the stage of the twist-prevention gluing set, a difference in yarn length from that of the polyester multifilament yarn (B) was generated due to the heat, and the processability in the weaving process was very poor. The 75 ° C. hot water shrinkage ratio SHD (7
5) [%] was -3.6 [%], and substantially showed thermal elongation at this temperature.

Comparative Example 4 The polyester multifilament mixed yarn described in Example 1 was set to a temperature of 80 ° C. for setting the twist-prevention glue, and woven into a plain fabric. However, at the stage of the twist-prevention gluing set, a difference in yarn length between the polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) occurs due to the heat, and the process passability in the weaving process is extremely poor. Met. At this time, the hot water shrinkage S at 75 ° C. of the polyester multifilament yarn (A)
HD (75) [%] was -2.8 [%], and substantially showed thermal elongation at this temperature.

[0030]

According to the present invention, there is provided a soft and swelling feeling, a dry feeling and an excellent skin releasability, a women's clothing,
It has become possible to provide a material suitable as a woven or knitted material such as light-weight clothing and heavy-weight clothing.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged view of a single yarn of a special polyester multifilament (A) in the present invention after an alkali weight reduction treatment.

[Explanation of symbols]

 (a)… Special polyester multifilament (A) (b)… Fine grooves extending continuously and parallel to the fiber axis direction (c)… Fine grooves extending perpendicular to the fiber axis direction

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A polyester multifilament yarn (A) having continuous fine grooves extending in the fiber axis direction and fine grooves extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction on the fiber surface, and a yarn as compared with the polyester multifilament yarn (A). A special polyester multifilament mixed yarn comprising a polyester multifilament yarn (B) having a foot difference of 5% or more and a small yarn foot. 2. On the fiber surface of the polyester multifilament yarn (A), continuous fine grooves extending in the fiber axis direction are shown in (a) and (b) below, and fine grooves extending in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction are shown below ( The special polyester multifilament mixed yarn according to claim 1, wherein c) to (e) are satisfied. (A) The width of the fine grooves on the fiber surface 0.3 to 1.0 μm (b) The number of fine grooves per 10 μm in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis 5 to 30 (c) From the fiber surface to the deepest part of the fine grooves 1.50 × d ^{1/2 to} 4.50 × d ^1/2 μm (where d is the single denier of the polyester multifilament yarn (A) having fine grooves) (d) Fine grooves on the fiber surface 1.50 × d ^{1/2 to} 4.00 × d ^1/2 μm (e) Number of micro grooves per 10 μm in fiber axis direction 3 to 10 3. A special polyester multifilament mixed yarn, wherein the polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) are interlaced mixed yarns satisfying the following formulas (1) to (5). . SHD (A) ≦ 0 [%] ……………………… (1) SHD (B) ≧ 0 [%] …………………………… ... (2) SHD (B)-SHD (A) ≥ 5 [%] ... (3) SHW75 (A) ≥ 0 [%] ... (4) 20 ≦ Di [q / m] ≦ 100 (5) However, SHD (A) is a polyester multifilament yarn (A). 160 ° C dry heat shrinkage [%] and SHW
75 (A) is a polyester multifilament yarn (A)
75 ° C. hot water shrinkage [%]. SHD (B) is the dry heat shrinkage [%] of the polyester multifilament yarn (B) at 160 ° C. Di indicates the degree of entanglement of the mixed fiber [ke / m]. 4. The special polyester multifilament according to claim 1, wherein the cross-sectional area ratio between the polyester multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) is from 1/1 to 1/3. Mixed yarn.