JP2559684B2 - Cashmere fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a synthetic fiber woven fabric having a soft, draping touch and texture similar to cashmere fabric.

(Prior Art) It is well known that a material having a soft texture is desired for use in women's clothing, and so-called cashmere yarn using high-quality wool is optimal as such a material. However, since cashmere yarn is extremely expensive, it would be advantageous if similar texture could be obtained using inexpensive synthetic fibers.

It is generally known to use a fineness yarn of several denier or less as a method of obtaining a soft touch and a feeling. However,
If weaving is performed only with such yarns, yarn breakage frequently occurs, and it is difficult to obtain a high-quality woven fabric, and the woven fabric also has low strength and lacks a feeling of tightness. For this reason, it has been practiced to mix and combine the fine fiber as described above with other yarns.

For example, JP-A-63-135540 discloses a single yarn denier 1.
A woven fabric using a mixed yarn composed of a fine-twisted false twisted yarn having a fineness of 5 denier or less and a high shrinkage filament is described.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-135540, it is only possible to obtain a breathable waterproof cloth by densifying the woven fabric in the weft and weft directions by the shrinking action of the high shrinkage filament component. It was not disclosed. For this reason, the waterproof cloth is far from a soft texture and a cashmere-like texture, and is likely to be hard and paper-like.

The present invention is to solve such a problem, by fully utilizing the soft texture of fine-definition yarn, and by forming a woven fabric with drapeability, medium-thickness or thick fabric using cashmere yarn. The present invention provides a synthetic fiber woven fabric having a texture and a touch similar to those of the above high-class woven fabrics.

(Means for Solving the Problem) The present invention comprises a crimped yarn having a single-filament fineness of 1.5 denier or less (hereinafter referred to as a fine-fineness crimped yarn) and a flat yarn, and the crimped yarn is substantially located in the surface layer portion. A non-twisted or sweet-twisted mixed yarn used as a warp, and a strong twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 5000 to 30,000 as a weft, with a ratio of the floating number to the sinking number of the warp of 2: 1 or more. A cashmere-like woven fabric having a certain structure, the surface of which is substantially covered with the crimped yarn, and a highly shrinkable filament having a boiling water shrinkage difference of 10% or more and a single yarn having a low shrinkage of 1.5 denier or less. Using a non-twisted or sweet-twisted mixed yarn made of crimped yarn as a warp, and a strongly twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 5000 to 30000 as a weft, and the ratio of the floating number to the sinking number of the warp is 2:
A method for producing a cashmere-like woven fabric, which comprises weaving to a number of 1 or more, heat-treating it to shrink it, and substantially covering the surface with the low shrinkage crimped yarn.

Further, the present invention uses a non-twisted or sweet-twisted mixed filament yarn composed of a crimped yarn having a single-filament fineness of 1.5 denier or less and a flat yarn as a warp, in which the crimped yarn is substantially located in the surface layer. A woven fabric using a strong twisted yarn having a coefficient of 5000 to 30000 for the weft,
A cashmere-like woven fabric characterized by having a finer weft than the warp and having a surface substantially covered with the crimped yarn, and a highly shrinkable filament having a boiling water shrinkage difference of 10% or more and a single yarn of 1.5 denier. After weaving using a non-twisted or sweet-twisted mixed fiber consisting of the following low-shrinkage crimped yarn as a warp, and using a strongly twisted yarn having a fineness larger than the warp and a twist coefficient of 5000 to 30000 as a weft, A method for producing a cashmere-like woven fabric, characterized by heat-treating to shrink the high-shrinkage filament, and substantially covering the surface with the shrinkable crimp yarn.

The mixed yarn used as the warp in the present invention includes two kinds of yarns of a crimped yarn having a denier of 1.5 or less and a flat yarn.

As the crimped yarn, there are a false twisted textured yarn, a shaped textured yarn, a scratched textured yarn, a self-crimp expression type composite yarn in which crimps are produced by conjugate spinning side-by-side type two-component polymers with different shrinkability. Although it can be used, a false twist textured yarn is preferable because of its cost and ease of crimp control. In the case of false twisted textured yarn, crimped yarn processed under general conditions can be used. For example, a 75 denier filament has 31 twists.
00-3500 T / M, 390 for 50 denier filament
It may be processed at 0 to 4300 T / M. When using a false-twisted processed yarn of 1 heater, the expansion recovery rate is 35 to 50% and the crimp may be strong and the surface of the fabric may be disturbed. It is preferable to use twisted yarn. In the case of 2 heaters, the expansion and contraction recovery rate is 10 to 20%, more preferably 12 to 18%
If set to, a woven fabric with excellent performance and quality can be obtained.

The single yarn denier of the crimped yarn must be 1.5 denier or less. That is, when it exceeds 1.5 denier, the soft texture of the surface layer portion is deteriorated and the cashmere texture cannot be obtained. However, for polyester fibers, etc., the single yarn fineness is usually 0.
If it is less than 5 denier, the strength will decrease and it will be difficult to use it for external clothing.

On the other hand, the flat yarn referred to in the present invention refers to one having a flat appearance which is not crimped as described above. As will be described later, the flat yarn is located at the core of the mixed fiber, and the single yarn fineness thereof is preferably about 1 to 4 denier.

The mixed yarn has a structure in which the crimped yarn component is substantially located in the surface layer portion thereof and contributes to most of the feel.

Such a mixed fiber can be obtained by various methods, but the following method is effective. That is, as the flat yarn, a high shrinkage filament having a boiling water shrinkage difference of 10% or more, and a low shrinkage filament as the crimped yarn are mixed and entangled by an interlace method or the like to form a mixed fiber, and after weaving, It is a method of shrinking the high shrinkage filament by heat treatment to position it at the core of the mixed fiber.

Examples of the high shrinkage filament in the present invention include the following. In the case of polyester, the shrinkage ratio of a polyester filament typified by polyethylene terephthalate is usually set so that the shrinkage ratio is several percent by heat setting after hot drawing. However, in the case of polyester or the like, it is extremely easy to set a high shrinkage rate by using the following method.

When a polymer to be spun is made into a copolymer, for example, polyethylene terephthalate is assembled, isophthalic acid is used as a part of the acid component.

At the time of stretching, the stretching ratio may be set lower or heat setting may be omitted.

Use filaments that have been spun at high speed (usually spinning at 2500 m / min or more).

When the above method is adopted, the shrinkage ratio can be set to 10 to 60%, but the method or is suitable from the viewpoint of cost and easiness of manufacturing. Especially, the method depending on the drawing conditions is cost and yarn quality. Is preferable in terms of stability.

It is preferable that the high shrinkage filament used in the present invention has a boiling water shrinkage of 12 to 40%, and the low shrinkage crimped yarn has a boiling water shrinkage of approximately 1 to 5%. In the present method, since the high shrinkage filament is used for forming the mixed fiber structure, an extremely large shrinkage rate is not required, and it is preferable to keep it within the above range so as not to harden the texture of the woven fabric.

Next, the strongly twisted yarn used as the weft in the present invention will be described.
The number of twists of the strongly twisted yarn has a twist factor (a) of 5000
Must be ~ 30,000.

T = number of twists (T / M) a = twist coefficient D = fineness (denier) SG = specific gravity When the twist coefficient is 5000 or less, the yarn has no lumps and the texture is dry and the desired drape property is obtained. Absent. On the other hand, if the twist coefficient exceeds 30,000, the feel becomes hard and the desired drape property cannot be obtained.

As such a strongly twisted yarn, it is more preferable to use a composite false twisted yarn or a thick and thin yarn (thick and thin yarn) false twisted yarn as described below. That is, as the composite false twisted yarn, for example, Japanese Patent Publication Sho
As described in JP-A-59-24212, a two-layer structure in which a drawn yarn and an undrawn yarn are simultaneously false-twisted and an drawn yarn is arranged in a core portion and an undrawn yarn is arranged in a sheath portion, or JP-B-58-58. As described in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 12940, there may be mentioned those obtained by simultaneously drawing and false-twisting an undrawn yarn and a semi-drawn yarn to form the above-mentioned two-layer structure. When the composite false-twisted yarn having such a two-layer structure is twisted, even if the yarn of the core portion is strongly twisted, the yarn of the sheath portion is not so strongly twisted and bulkiness remains. FIG. 1 is an electron micrograph (80 times) of the side surface of the weft of this fabric, (a) using a normal multifilament, and (b) using a composite false twist double-layer structure yarn as the weft. Compared with (a), (b) shows that even when wefts (threads that continuously exist in the left and right of the center of the photograph) bend at alternate points with the warp, they follow more flexibly and the bulkiness is impaired. I know there isn't. Therefore, when such a composite yarn is used as a weft, a woven fabric having both drapeability and bulkiness can be obtained.

Further, when a false-twisted yarn of thick thin yarn is used as the weft yarn, a dry-touch woven fabric having a tight feeling due to a thick portion having low orientation can be obtained. Examples of such a thick thin thread include, for example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-2567.
As described in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 33-33, there is a material in which an undrawn yarn is allowed to relax and then cold drawn and false twisted.

As described above, this woven fabric uses yarns as warp yarns and weft yarns. More importantly, in the present invention, the mixed yarn in which the fineness crimped yarn is located in the surface layer portion is used as much as possible. It is to coordinate on the surface. Therefore, in the present invention, the following two methods are used, that is, one of them is as a woven structure, the warp composed of the above-described mixed yarn is 2: 1 or more, preferably 3: 1
As described above, it is more preferable to select the one configured to be 4: 1 or more. As such an organization, italic weave,
The satin weave and the structure which combined these can be mentioned. Unlike the plain weave design and the like, the above-mentioned design has a large rate of appearance of warp on the surface, and the area of the sinking part of the warp is small, so that the warp is more likely to be exposed than the ratio of the number of floats to the number of sinks. For this reason, the texture of the mixed fiber used as the warp is more likely to appear. However, when the floating number of the warp exceeds 7: 1, the warp may float and become loop-shaped or fluffy, so that it is preferable to limit it to this range.

On the other hand, another method is to make the fineness (total fineness) of the weft yarn larger than that of the warp yarn. The total fineness is 2.5 to 5.0 times that of the warp yarn, specifically about 100 to 400 denier. It is preferable. In the case of the present invention, the weft yarns are highly converged into a circular shape by strong twisting, while the warp yarns are mere mixed fiber yarns, that is, non-twisted or sweet twisted yarns, so that the warp yarns have a low converging property and are easily dispersed. When the fineness of the weft yarn is increased as described above, the distance between the adjacent crossing points of the warp yarn and the weft yarn becomes long even in the plain weave. Therefore, the warp yarn is greatly bent around the circular shaped weft yarn and is at the same time scattered. The single yarn floats up like a loop and diffuses on the surface of the woven fabric.

In the present invention, the above two methods may be used in combination.

When the high shrinkage filaments described above are used for the mixed fiber floating on the surface of the woven fabric by these methods, the crimped yarn further moves to the surface layer and spreads by the heat treatment described later, so that the surface of the woven fabric is expanded by about 80 times. After observing it, almost no weft yarn can be confirmed. Therefore, it can be said that the surface of the present woven fabric is substantially covered with the warp, that is, the crimped yarn having a fine single yarn fineness. (See Fig. 1) In addition, this fabric is A design in which the total value of the diameter and the weft of the cover factor indicated by the number of yarns per one is about 2000 to 5000 is preferable.

Furthermore, in the present invention, it is preferable to carry out alkali reduction of about 10 to 30% in order to obtain a soft texture and drapeability.

Needless to say, various processes such as dyeing, raising, softening, antistatic and water repellent may be applied to this woven fabric.

Further, as described above, when a high shrinkage filament and a low shrinkage crimped yarn are used as the mixed fiber, it is necessary to heat-treat after weaving to shrink the high shrinkage filament. Further, when a crimped yarn produced by false-twisting with a two-heater method is used as the crimped yarn, the crimp is uniform, but the bulkiness is low, so hot water at a high temperature (90 ° C or higher) is used in the relaxing step before dyeing. Direct crimping should be carried out to maximize the appearance of crimps. On the other hand, when the crimped yarn obtained by false-twisting using the one-heater method is used, since the bulkiness is large, the relaxing condition may be relatively low temperature, for example, 60 to 80 ° C.

(Example) The measuring method of various data in the present invention is as follows.

1. Shrinkage rate Take a sack of 5 times with a shaving machine and immerse it in hot water of 95 to 100 ° C for 1 minute under a load of 0.001 g / d, shrink it, dry it, and then set the original length to L, after shrinking Let l be the length of and calculate with the following formula.

2. Denier JIS L-1013 method 3. Cover factor 9. Expansion / contraction recovery ratio JIS-L-10090 10. Twist number calculation formula T = number of twists a = twist coefficient D = fineness (denier) SG = specific gravity (polyester 1.38) 11. Drape coefficient Using the characteristic values obtained by the KES method (a texture evaluation method devised by Professor Takao Kawabata, Kyoto University), The smaller the value, the more the drape property.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 was melted in an extruder, extruded from an orifice heated to 295 ° C. and wound at 1100 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn. The undrawn yarn was drawn 3.85 times with a drawing roller heated to 80 ° C. to give 50
A highly shrinkable polyester filament of d / 48f was obtained (hot water shrinkage rate 15.8%).

Next, ordinary polyester filaments 50d / 48f were false twisted by the two heater system under the following conditions to obtain crimped yarn. The hot-water shrinkage of the false twisted yarn was 3.5%, and the expansion / contraction restoration ratio was 14.8%.

False twisting conditions Spindle speed 400,000 rpm, twisted yarn S direction 3424T / M Feed rate 1st + 2% 2nd 12.5% Heater temperature 1st 215 ° C 2nd 205 ° C Highly shrinkable yarn Polyester filament and polyester false twisted yarn are mixed by air jet The fiber was refined to obtain a 100d / 96f mixed yarn.

On the other hand, the draw texturing of polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn 166d / 48f polyethylene terephthalate birefringence 48 × 10 ^-3 phthalate half drawn yarn 230d / 72f and the引揃example circumscribed friction discs birefringence 10 × 10 ^-3 Then, a composite false twisted yarn of 250d / 120f was obtained.
The false twist conditions are as follows. Speed ratio (D / Y) 0.3, draw ratio 1.6,
Heater temperature 160 ℃ Next, the mixed yarn is twisted with S480T / M to warp, and the composite false twisted yarn is twisted with S1000T / M (twist coefficient 13500) to obtain 5 warp satin fabrics for weft. It was

The woven fabric was relaxed at 95 ° C. to shrink the high shrinkage polyester filament, and 20% of alkali reduction, dyeing and heat setting were performed to obtain a woven fabric. The obtained woven fabric had a warp count of 199 yarns / inch and a weft count of 85 yarns / inch, and the surface had exposed warp yarns and had a soft and cashmere-like feel. The physical properties of the woven fabric are shown below.

Drape coefficient 15.2 Unit weight 214 g / m ² Thickness 0.52 mm Cover factor 3200 Moreover, the warp cross section of the woven fabric is shown in FIG. 1 (b) by an electron micrograph (80 times). As is clear from the figure, the surface of the fabric (upper part) is almost covered with the fineness crimp yarn.

Comparative Example 1 A plain fabric using the mixed yarn used in Example 1 as warp and weft was relaxed with hot water at 95 ° C., dyed and set to fabric (warp 130 / inch, weft 86 / inch) Got

The obtained woven fabric had a hard texture and was paper-like.

In addition, the warp cross section of the woven fabric is shown in FIG.
Times). As is clear from the figure, both warp and weft can be confirmed on the surface of the fabric (upper side).

Example 2 Intrinsic viscosity of 0.68 obtained by copolymerizing 8 mol% of isophthalic acid
Polyethylene terephthalate was extruded at a spinneret temperature of 290 ° C. and wound at 1500 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn. This thread 85
It was drawn 2.71 times with a heating roller at ℃ to obtain 30d / 24f highly shrinkable polyester filaments (heat absorption value 32.0%). Next, the 50d / 48f 2-heater false twisted yarn obtained in Example 1 and the high shrinkage yarn were mixed with an air jet to obtain a mixed yarn of 80d / 72f.

On the other hand, undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn 290d / 48f with a birefringence of 27 × 10 ^-3 was left in a room at room temperature of 25 ° C and humidity of 65% RH for 14 days, and then false twisted with a spindle type false twisting machine to 167d / 48f.
To obtain a thick false-twisted yarn. The false twist conditions are as follows.

Processing speed 100m / min, draw ratio 1.65, draw temperature room temperature, false twist overfeed -6%, false twist temperature 180 ℃, false twist number 225
0t / M Next, the mixed yarn is additionally twisted with S250T / M, and two thick and fine false twist yarns are combined with the warp, and then further twisted with S600T / m (twist coefficient 9300).
3/1 twill weave was obtained using the weft. The woven fabric was relaxed at 95 ° C. to shrink the high shrinkage polyester filament, then subjected to an alkali weight loss of 20%, and dyed. The resulting woven fabric has 178 warps / in and 72 wefts /
In, it had a soft and cashmere texture. The physical properties of the woven fabric are as follows.

Drape coefficient 13.6 Basis weight 185 g / m ² Thickness 0.47 mm Cover factor 2800 Example 3 2% owt of a fluorine-based water repellent was attached to the fabric used in Example 1, and a finishing set (baking) was performed at 180 ° C. for 30 seconds. gave. When the water repellency of the woven fabric was measured by JIS L-1092 (spray method), it showed a high water repellency of 100 points.

Example 4 birefringence 10 × 10 ^-3 polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn 240d / 72f polyethylene terephthalate birefringence 46 × 10 ^-3 phthalate undrawn yarn 225d / 36f and draw-by the引揃example circumscribed friction disc Twisted to obtain a 290d / 108f composite false twisted yarn as in Example 1.

Next, the 100d / 96f mixed filament yarn used in Example 1 was additionally twisted with S480T / M to a warp, and the composite false twist yarn was additionally twisted with S1500T / M and Z1500T / M (twist coefficient 21500) to obtain a weft yarn. To obtain a plain weave.

The woven fabric was relaxed at 95 ° C. to shrink the high shrinkage polyester filament, and 20% of alkali reduction, dyeing and heat setting were performed to obtain a woven fabric. The obtained woven fabric had 201 warps / inch and 60 wefts / inch, and the surface had exposed warps, and had a soft and cashmere touch. The physical properties of the outer fabric are shown below.

Drape coefficient 14.6 Unit weight 200g / m ² Thickness 0.49mm Cover factor 2900 The warp cross section of the outer fabric is shown in Fig. 1 (c) by an electron micrograph (80 times). As is clear from the figure, the surface of the fabric (upper part) is almost covered with the fineness crimp yarn.

(Effect of the Invention) The woven fabric according to the present invention has a soft surface sensation and a cashmere-like feel with drape, and even if inexpensive synthetic fibers are used, it is possible to obtain such a high-grade woven fabric. Is.

Further, this method can efficiently produce the woven fabric, and the utility of the present invention is obvious.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an electron micrograph showing the weft side surface of a woven fabric according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a woven fabric of a comparative example, showing the shape of fibers.

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A non-twisted or sweet-twisted mixed yarn, which is composed of crimped yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less and flat yarn and whose crimped yarn is substantially located in the surface layer portion, is used as a warp, and one twist coefficient is used. 5000
A woven fabric that uses ~ 30000 strongly twisted yarns as wefts, and has a structure in which the ratio of the number of floats to the number of sinks is 2: 1 or more, and the surface is substantially covered with the crimped yarns. A cashmere-like woven fabric characterized by being present. 2. A non-twisted or sweet-twisted mixed filament yarn comprising a crimped yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less and a flat yarn, and the crimped yarn is substantially located in the surface layer portion is used as a warp, and one twist coefficient is used. 5000
A woven fabric in which the strongly twisted yarn of 30,000 to 30,000 is used as a weft yarn, wherein the weft yarn has a larger fineness than the warp yarn, and the surface is substantially covered with the crimped yarn. 3. A non-twisted or sweet-twisted mixed fiber consisting of a high shrinkage filament having a boiling water shrinkage difference of 10% or more and a low shrinkage crimped yarn having a single yarn of 1.5 denier or less is used as a warp, and a twist coefficient of 5000 to 30000.
After weaving using the strongly twisted yarn of No. 2 as the weft so that the ratio of the number of floats to the number of sinks of the warp is 2: 1 or more, heat treatment is performed to shrink the high shrinkage filaments, and substantially the surface is reduced to the low shrinkage. A method for producing a cashmere-like woven fabric, which comprises covering with a crimped yarn. 4. A non-twisted or sweet-twisted mixed filament yarn comprising a high shrinkage filament having a boiling water shrinkage difference of 10% or more and a low shrinkage crimped yarn having a single denier of 1.5 denier or less is used as a warp, and the fineness is higher than that of the warp. After weaving a strong twisted yarn having a thick twist factor of 5000 to 30000 as a weft, it is heat-treated to shrink the highly shrinkable filament, and the surface is substantially covered with the shrinkable crimped yarn. A method for producing a textured fabric.