JPH0759769B2 - Polyester mixed yarn woven fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial field of application] The present invention relates to a polyester woven fabric composed of a differential-compression-weave yarn containing a polyester copolymer fiber having a specific copolymer composition as a high-shrink yarn, The present invention relates to a silky-like polyester mixed woven fabric which is excellent in bulge, softness, drape, gloss and light fastness.

[Prior Art] It has been conventionally known that a differential-contraction mixed woven yarn gives a silky-like woven or knitted fabric rich in swelling, softness, drape, and gloss, and as a general manufacturing method thereof, a spun mixed fiber is used. There are methods such as a method, a mixed fiber method at the time of drawing, or a mixed fiber method of drawn yarns, but from the viewpoint of productivity, two types of polyester, a high shrinkage polyester component and a low shrinkage polyester component, are spun using a composite spinning facility. An excellent method is a spinning mixed fiber method in which a polyester mixed woven undrawn yarn is obtained in the spinning step and drawn.

As this spinning mixed weaving method, JP-B-51-30620 and JP-A-49-72449 use a copolyester as a highly shrinkable polyester component and a homopolyester as a low shrinkable polyester component, There is disclosed a shrinkage-differential mixed woven yarn in which a difference in yarn length is not so much expressed in boiling water treatment and a difference in yarn length is caused by dry heat treatment. However, the woven fabric obtained by these differential shrinkage-weaving yarns is
It cannot be said that the bulge is sufficient, and it is impossible to obtain a silky-like woven fabric having a satisfactory texture.

On the other hand, in JP-B-60-35450 and JP-A-55-57013, polyethylene terephthalate is used as the low shrinkage polyester component and 2.2 bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} as the high shrinkage polyester component. A differential shrinkage mixed weaving yarn using a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate containing propane (hereinafter referred to as BHPP) in an amount of 5 mol% or more and 15 mol% or less with respect to all glycol components, and a woven fabric composed of the mixed weaving yarn have been proposed. ing. In addition, in these publications, in the case of ordinary combinations other than these two types of polyester fiber groups (for example, when using a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid or phthalic acid or diethylene glycol as a highly shrinkable polyester component) , Silky polyester obtained by the shrinkage difference mixed weaving yarn, no matter how the shrinkage ratio of the highly shrinkable polyester component, the shrinkage ratio of the entire yarn, the difference in the boiling water shrinkage ratio between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn and the condition of the hot water relaxation treatment are selected. It is stated that it is not possible to obtain the appearance and texture of a silk-like fabric or Fuji silk.
That is, in the case of the differential shrinkage mixed yarn, there is a drawback that only a woven fabric having a special appearance and texture corresponding to the specified polymer can be obtained. Moreover, BHPP which is a copolymerization component
Compared with other copolymerizable components (such as isophthalic acid) that can form a highly shrinkable copolymerized polyester, the lightfastness of the copolymerized polyester is significantly deteriorated, so that a fabric having good dyeability can be obtained. There wasn't.

In Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 61-13009, there is a difference in shrinkage rate of boiling water,
In the differential shrinkage mixed weaving yarn in which the low shrinkage component is polyethylene terephthalate and the high shrinkage component is copolymerized polyester, an example in which BHPP is copolymerized at 10 mol% is detailed as a specific example of the copolymerized polyester. However, as described above, the drawback of low light fastness cannot be avoided.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] Although the market needs have diversified and the woven fabrics have diversified as described above, there are significant defects in the basic characteristics of the woven fabrics, and thus the fibers constituting the woven fabrics. I won't. However, the present situation is that a woven fabric composed of differential shrinkage-mixed yarns that does not have any problems in both the texture and the dyeability of the woven fabric has not yet been developed.

The object of the present invention is to provide a silky-like woven fabric of high quality in terms of not only the feeling but also the dyeability, that is, rich swelling, soft feeling, drape, gloss, and excellent light fastness of dye and a special appearance. The aim is to provide silky-like fabrics that are not only biased in texture.

[Means for Solving the Problems] The present invention comprises at least two kinds of long fiber groups, that is, a long fiber group P in which at least one of a warp and a weft of a mixed woven yarn is made of polyester and a long fiber group Q in which a copolyester is made. The yarn length difference between the long fiber group P and the long fiber group Q is 5 to 15%.
Which comprises isophthalic acid and BHPP as the copolymerization components of the copolymerized polyester described below.
Achieved by a polyester mixed woven fabric which is characterized by containing III and IV formulas in an amount satisfying at the same time, the warp yarn is a sweet twist yarn, and the weft yarn is a strong twist yarn, and the light fastness is 4 or higher. be able to.

P (a) + 1.5 × P (b) ≧ 8.0 …… I P (a) + P (b) ≦ 18.0 …… II 1.0 ≦ P (b) ≦ 4.8 …… III P (a)> P (b) …… IV [wherein P (a) is the molar fraction of isophthalic acid (%) relative to the total acid component in the copolyester, P (a)
(B) is the mole fraction (%) of BHPP with respect to the total glycol component in the copolyester. In the polyester mixed yarn woven fabric of the present invention, a mixed woven yarn made of at least two kinds of long fiber group P made of polyester and long fiber group Q made of copolyester is a warp,
It is a woven fabric that constitutes at least one of the wefts. In order to impart a rich bulge, which is the target of the present invention, the difference in yarn length between the long fiber group P and the long fiber group Q (hereinafter referred to as woven fabric DFL) needs to be 5 to 15%. If the woven DFL is less than 5%, the resulting woven will be paper-like without sufficient bulge. On the other hand, if it exceeds 15%, the feeling becomes dull and the long fiber group P buckles on the surface of the woven fabric, making it difficult to make the surface appearance uniform. The woven fabric DFL is more preferably 7 to 13% in order to give a richer bulge.

Next, the copolyester forming the long fiber group Q of the present invention needs to be a copolyester containing isophthalic acid and BHPP as a copolymerization component. In the case of a copolyester containing isophthalic acid or BHPP alone as a copolymerization component, even if the provisions regarding the textile DFL of the present invention can be satisfied, not only the feel which is the object of the present invention but also the dyeability It cannot be a long fiber group that constitutes a highly silky-like fabric. In addition, not only the feel, which is the object of the present invention, but also silky-like, which is of high quality, is not limited to the feeling which is also the object of the present invention by other conceivable other copolymerization components or a combination thereof, or a combination thereof with isophthalic acid or BHPP. It cannot be a group of long fibers constituting a woven fabric.

The copolyester in the present invention must contain isophthalic acid and BHPP as copolymerization components in an amount defined by the formula I, that is, P (a) + 1.5P (b) ≧ 8.0.

When P (a) + 1.5P (b) is less than 8.0, it is difficult to increase the woven DFL to 5% or more. When P (a) + 1.5P (b) is 10% or more, it is possible to easily obtain the woven fabric DFL within a suitable range, which is more preferable.

Further, it is necessary to satisfy the formula III, that is, 1.0 ≦ P (b) ≦ 4.8. When P (b) is less than 1.0, a woven fabric with a rich swelling and softness that can be used as a date regardless of how the shrinkage properties of the differential shrinkage-mixed yarn are changed in the stage before changing the spinning / drawing conditions to produce a woven fabric. Can't get It is presumed that this is because the copolyester containing BHPP as a copolymer component has the effect of causing a strong shrinkage even under the constraint of the woven structure. When P (b) is 1.5 or more, this effect is further enhanced, which is preferable.
On the other hand, a fiber made of a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing BHPP has a significantly deteriorated light fastness when the copolymerization fraction of the copolymerization component increases. Therefore, it is necessary to satisfy P (b) ≦ 4.8. By setting P (b) to 4.6 or less, the light fastness can be further improved.

Further, it is necessary to copolymerize isophthalic acid in excess of BHPP in order to suppress deterioration of light fastness. If the residual shrinkage rate of the woven fabric is large, it is not preferable in terms of dimensional stability such as shrinkage occurring when only ironing. Therefore, the 180 ° C. free dry heat shrinkage is preferably 4% or less. From this point, it is necessary to satisfy the formula II, that is, P (a) + P (b) ≦ 8.0. 180 ℃ free dry heat shrinkage is 3
% Is more preferable, and from this point, P
It is more preferable that (a) + P (b) be 16.0 or less.

In the present invention, the copolyester means a polymer having a structure in which isophthalic acid and BHPP are randomly copolymerized in the main chain of the polyester. Polyethylene terephthalate is preferable as the polyester. This copolymerized polyester or copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate may contain diethylene glycol or the like in the main chain within a range of being by-produced in the production process thereof, and is a woven fabric exhibiting an excellent silky-like object of the present invention. To the extent that it is possible to manufacture the constituent yarns of
A copolymerization component other than PP may be contained.

On the other hand, the long fiber group P needs to be polyester,
Polyester, which is substantially polyethylene terephthalate and has excellent fiber-forming properties, is preferable. A polyester which is substantially polyethylene terephthalate is a polyester in which 90 mol% or more is ethylene terephthalate. In addition to ethylene terephthalate,
It is possible to copolymerize BHPP and the like, but in this case, a difference of 8.0 or more is obtained in the formula IP (a) + 1.5P (b) with respect to the copolyester forming the long fiber group Q. It is preferable to provide.

If the difference in the intrinsic viscosity between the polyester forming the long fiber group P and the copolyester forming the long fiber group Q is too large, Talmi is likely to occur at the stage of the differential shrinkage mixed yarn, and the weaving property is likely to be deteriorated. There are drawbacks, the difference in intrinsic viscosity is preferably 0.03 or less, and it is more preferable that the polyester forming the long fiber group P has a lower intrinsic viscosity.

Intrinsic viscosity here is the intrinsic viscosity measured in orthochlorophenol at 25 ° C.

Titanium oxide (TiO ₂ ) is not added to the polyester forming the long fiber group P, while 0.02 to 0.1% by weight is added to the copolymerized polyester forming the long fiber group Q.
By adding titanium oxide (TiO ₂ ) within the range of
It can be a product with a more silky-like appearance and an elegant appearance with gloss and transparency.

From the viewpoint of imparting a silky-like luster, it is preferable that the single yarn of the mixed woven yarn constituting the woven fabric has a T-shaped, triangular or trilobal cross-section. In addition, it is possible to obtain the soft feeling and drape, which is the characteristic texture of the woven fabric composed of the differential shrinkage mixed yarns, and by combining it with the different weaving degree mixed weaving technology, it has an appropriate tension and waist. It is also possible to use a woven fabric. In this case, the single yarn fineness of the long fiber group Q is 1 denier or more and 5 denier or less, the single yarn fineness of the fiber group P is 0.5 denier or more and 3 denier or less, and the single yarn fineness of the long fiber group Q is long fiber group. A combination in which the fineness is larger than the single yarn fineness of P is more preferable because the spinning and drawing can be easily performed, and sufficient tension and elasticity can be imparted to the fiber.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, the mixed woven yarn composed of the long fiber group P and the long fiber group Q must constitute at least one of the warp and the weft of the woven fabric. In addition, the warp yarns are untwisted to 500 T / M sweet twisted yarns in order to make the irregular defects and the like peculiar to the mixed yarns difficult to see by taking advantage of the characteristics of the mixed yarns of the present invention, and the weft yarns. It is necessary that the woven fabric is made of warp, weft, and strong twists that are full twist strong twist yarns. In this case, if a mixed woven yarn composed of the long fiber group P and the long fiber group Q is arranged in the weft, a wefting defect due to a difference in the yarn length is likely to occur, so that the weft may be a yarn having no difference in the yarn length. preferable.

Next, an example of the method for producing the polyester mixed woven yarn woven fabric of the present invention will be described.

At least two kinds of long fiber groups having different heat shrinkages have a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 30% or less and a boiling DFL of 5% or more and 25% or less, and at least one kind of long fiber group has a low shrinkage composed of polyester. The yarn and at least one other type of filaments contain isophthalic acid and BHPP as copolymerization components in the following I, II,
A high shrinkage yarn made of a copolyester containing an amount satisfying the expressions III and IV at the same time is used. A mixed woven yarn composed of these low shrinkage yarn and high shrinkage yarn is used for at least one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn, and is woven to develop a difference in heat shrinkage in hot water. After that, dry heat setting is performed, and the difference in yarn length is 5 to 15%.
By so doing, the mixed woven fabric of the present invention can be obtained.

P (a) + 1.5 × P (b) ≧ 8.0 …… I P (a) + P (b) ≦ 18.0 …… II 1.0 ≦ P (b) ≦ 4.8 …… III P (a)> P (b) …… IV [wherein P (a) is the molar fraction of isophthalic acid (%) relative to the total acid component in the copolyester, P (a)
(B) is the mole fraction (%) of BHPP with respect to the total glycol component in the copolyester. (Hereinafter P (a),
P (b) follows this)] In the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage ratio (hereinafter referred to as BWS).
The shrinkage characteristics (measurement method will be described later) shown in the boiling point DFL (hereinafter referred to as DFL) are important thread characteristics for the differential shrinkage mixed yarn used in the present invention.

In order to impart a rich bulge and softness, which is the target of the present invention, the shrinkage characteristics of the differential shrinkage-weave yarn must be within a specific range. In order to impart a soft feeling, which is the target of the present invention, when a woven fabric is subjected to a difference in thermal shrinkage in hot water, the shrinkage in the length and / or width direction of the portion using the differential shrinkage mixed yarn is 22%. If it exceeds, the shrinkage will be 22% or less, and more preferably 19% or less in terms of boiling water shrinkage. From the same viewpoint, the BWS of the differential shrinkage mixed yarn is preferably 30% or less, more preferably 26% or less.

To impart a rich bulge to the fabric, the difference in yarn length of the fabric is 5 to 15%, preferably 7 to 13%.
L is 5% or more and 25% or less, preferably 9% or more and 20% or less.

The dry heat shrinkage rate (hereinafter referred to as BDS) after the boiling water treatment is 50% or less, preferably 45% or less from the viewpoint of enhancing the soft feeling. Further, in order to enhance the soft feeling, it is preferably 42% or less.

Further, the differential shrinkage mixed woven yarn of the present invention is, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No.
It can be obtained by the ordinary mixed-woven spinning and drawing described in JP-A No. 0-49, JP-A-49-72449 and the like. In this yarn making process, it is preferable to add a fluid entanglement treatment in order to improve processability in weaving and knitting. However, in this case, if the degree of entanglement exceeds 60 KO / m, it causes the DFL efficiency to decrease, so the entanglement degree is preferably in the range of 10 to 60 KO / m.

Using such a differential shrinkage mixed woven yarn in the above-mentioned woven fabric structure,
It is preferable to treat in hot water at 80 to 100 ° C. without substantially applying tension to develop a difference in heat shrinkage. Then, if the softening point of the copolyester that forms the high shrinkage yarn is TS (° C) from the point of making the appearance of the woven fabric uniform and giving dimensional stability, (TS-80) ~ (TS-40) ° C It is better to set dry heat in the range of. After dry heat set, preferably 10-30%
It is recommended to apply the alkali weight reduction treatment to improve the feeling such as soft feeling and drape.

[Examples] Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples.

In addition, the shrinkage properties, the woven fabric DFL and the light fastness, which are important properties among the yarn properties of the differential shrinkage-blended yarn in the present invention, are:
It is a value measured by the measuring method described in detail below.

Boiling water shrinkage rate (BWS) After measuring the sample length (L0) of a differential shrinkage mixed woven yarn under a load of 100 mg / d, the boiling water treatment is performed for 20 minutes under no load. After boiling water treatment, measure the sample length (L1) under a load of 100 mg / d, and calculate BWS according to the following formula.

BWS (%) = [(L0-L1) / L0] x 100 Filtration DFL (DFL) After shrinking the differential shrinkage mixed weave yarn into a high shrinkage yarn and a low shrinkage yarn, each sample under a load of 100 mg / d Measure the length (Lh0, L10) and perform boiling water treatment for 20 minutes without load. 100m after processing
Measure the sample length (Lh1, L11) under a load of g / d. Each boiling water treatment rate (BWSh, BWSl) is calculated according to the method for measuring the boiling water treatment rate (BWS). Calculate DFL according to the following formula.

DFL (%) = [(BWSh-BWSl) / (100-BWSh)] x 100 After treatment with dry heat shrinkage (BDS) after boiling water treatment, the sample was air-dried under no load and then 2 mg /
Perform a dry heat treatment at 170 ° C for 3 minutes under a load of d. 100m after processing
Measure the sample length (L2) under a load of g / d. According to the following formula, B
Ask for DS.

BDS (%) = [(L0-L2l) / L0] × 100 Woven fabric DFL Take out a mixed woven yarn of 5-10 cm at random from the woven fabric, divide it into all single yarns, and measure the single yarn length. Average length of long fibers (L
From 3) and the average length (L4) of the short fiber group, the woven fabric DFL is calculated according to the following formula. This is represented by the average of 5 samples.

Fabric DFL (%) = [(L3-L4) / L4] x 100 Lightfastness to light A fabric for L-dying with a disperse dye (Resoline Blue FBL) was used as a sample for evaluation of lightfastness. Evaluation is JIS L0
It is an eight-step judgment by 842 (carbon arc lamp method).
Grade 8 is the best, and as the grade decreases, the fastness becomes worse.

The light fastness, which is the target of the present invention, was set to grade 4 or higher.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate containing no TiO ₂ was used as the polyester for forming the long fiber group P, and polyethylene terephthalate was used as the copolymerized polyester for forming the long fiber group Q with polyethylene terephthalate having the compositions of Nos. 1 to 5 in the table. Using a copolyester containing 0.05% by weight of titanium oxide (TiO ₂ ), a mixed weaving undrawn yarn having a Y-shaped cross section was obtained by a composite spinning method at a spinning temperature of 287 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min. This undrawn yarn was drawn by a hot roll-hot plate method at a drawing speed of 600 m / min, and had 50 denier 30 filaments (long fiber group P had 30 denier 22 filaments and long fiber group Q had 22 denier) having shrinkage characteristics shown in the table. (8 filaments) was obtained. The drawn yarn is provided with air entanglement in the range of 20 to 25 co / m, the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester forming the long fiber group P is 0.643, and the intrinsic viscosity of the copolymer polyester is 0.646 to 0.653.
And the generation of talumi was not substantially observed in the drawn yarn.

This mixed woven yarn is twisted at 200 T / M to make it a warp, while the weft is made of bright Y-type normal polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn of 75 denier 36 filaments, 2700 T / M of strong twisted yarn, and warp density of 153 yarns. / in, weft weaving density of 83 yarns / in,
Relax smelt with boiling water, dry heat set at 170 ℃, and reduce alkali by 22%.

Table 1 shows the process characteristics and finish characteristics of the obtained woven fabric. The small level No. 1 of the woven DFL had an insufficient bulging feeling. Level No. 5 showed a slight fluff and surface uniformity was insufficient. Level No. 4 is slightly inadequate in terms of fluffiness and uniformity, but Levels Nos. 2 to 4 possess the high-level texture, uniform appearance and good lightfastness that are the objectives of the present invention. Was there.

Comparative Example 1 A woven fabric was obtained by spinning, weaving, and finishing according to Example 1 except that only 15 mol% of isophthalic acid was copolymerized as the copolymerized polyester forming the long fiber group Q. The properties of the mixed yarn and the woven fabric are shown in the table as level No. 6. Woven fabric DFL is small and has no bulge. Large residual shrinkage and lack of practicality.

Increasing the DFL of the mixed yarn leads to an increase in BDS and an increase in shrinkage of the fabric, and the fabric is rough-cured and the residual shrinkage further increases.Therefore, the feeling of the mixed yarn using isophthalic acid copolyester is limited. was there.

Example 2 In order to clarify the effect of the copolymerization amount of BHPP, the copolymerization amount of BHPP of level Nos. 7 to 12 was changed as shown in the table, and otherwise the same as in Example 1 for spinning, weaving and finishing. Made into a woven fabric. The properties of the mixed woven yarn and the woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

Level No. 7 has a small woven DFL and lacks bulge. Attempts to increase the DFL of the mixed yarn to increase the woven DFL emphasized the same drawbacks as in Comparative Example 1. level
No. 12 is poor in practicality in terms of light fastness. Level No. 8 was slightly lacking in bulge. In contrast, level No. 8 ~
No. 11 possessed a high degree of feel, a uniform appearance and good light fastness (level No. 11 is slightly insufficient in light fastness), which is the object of the present invention.

[Effects of the Invention] The polyester mixed woven fabric of the present invention is composed of a differential shrinkage mixed woven yarn composed of a high shrinkage yarn formed of a specific copolyester and a low shrinkage yarn formed of polyester, and Woven yarn length difference is provided, which has rich swelling, softness, drape and gloss, excellent light fastness of dye, and is not biased only to special appearance and texture. It is a silky-like woven fabric.

Continuation of front page (56) References JP-A-55-45873 (JP, A) JP-B-62-8536 (JP, B2)

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A long fiber group P comprising at least one of warp threads and weft threads and a long fiber group Q consisting of a copolyester. The long fiber group P and the long fiber group. A mixed woven yarn having a yarn length difference from Q of 5 to 15%, wherein the copolymerized polyester is a copolymerization component in the range of the amounts of isophthalic acid and 2.2 which simultaneously satisfy the following formulas I, II, III and IV. A polyester mixed woven yarn containing bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane, characterized in that the warp yarn is a sweet twist yarn and the weft yarn is a strong twist yarn, and the light fastness is quaternary or higher. fabric. P (a) + 1.5 × P (b) ≧ 8.0 …… I P (a) + P (b) ≦ 18.0 …… II 1.0 ≦ P (b) ≦ 4.8 …… III P (a)> P (b) …… IV [wherein P (a) is the molar fraction of isophthalic acid (%) relative to the total acid component in the copolyester, P (a)
(B) is the molar fraction (%) of 2.2 bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane with respect to the total glycol component in the copolyester. ]