JP3140822B2 - Ultra-fine light and light dyeable yarn and high shrinkable light and light dyeable yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a fine light and light dyeable yarn and a highly shrinkable light and light dyeable yarn which have a surface effect due to light and light dyeing differences and can be made into a woven or knitted fabric having a soft feel. It is.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as one of means for giving a surface effect to a fabric using polyester filament yarn, a yarn having a deeply dyeable portion and a lightly dyeable portion intermittently in the longitudinal direction of the yarn is used. By using a fabric, a product having a surface effect has been obtained.

[0003] In recent years, a soft product using an ultrafine yarn having a single-fiber fineness of 1 d or less has a feel like a peach skin (peach skin tone) and a feeling that cannot be obtained with natural fibers. It has gained a high reputation. However, since the fine filament has a thin single filament, it has the drawback that, not only when there is no crimp, but also when it has a normal random crimp as shown in Fig. 2, it appears whitish even when dyed, and it is difficult to dye deeply. was there. For this reason, the use of extra-fine yarns and the change in shades of color could not be considered for Fancy Sea yarn.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of the prior art, and forms a fine pattern effect in a dark color portion and a light color portion by weaving and knitting while being a very fine yarn. It is a technical object of the present invention to provide an ultra-fine light and light dyeable yarn capable of producing a high-shrinkable light and light dyeable yarn capable of forming a peach skin-like bulky cloth having a light and light effect.

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, intermittently inserted into a three-dimensional crimped crimp in the longitudinal direction of a single-filament fine polyester yarn. By giving rise to crimps in the form of horizontal stripe crimps, it is possible to impart a light and light dyeing difference to the ultrafine yarn. In addition, this yarn is combined with a yarn having both high heat shrinkage stress and high heat shrinkage. The present inventors have found that by doing this, it is possible to obtain a yarn which can be used as a peach skin-like bulky fabric having a shading effect, and arrived at the present invention.

That is, the present invention has the following configuration. (1) Polyester false twist yarn having a single-fiber fineness of 0.8 d or less, in which horizontal stripe crimps and random crimps are present alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and between the horizontal stripe crimps and the random crimp. An ultra-fine, light and light-dyed yarn characterized by a fineness difference of 20% or less and a random crimp portion that is more deeply dyed than a horizontal stripe crimp portion. (2) The ultra-fine and lightly dyeable yarn described in (1) above, the maximum heat shrinkage stress is 0.4 g / d or more, and the hot water shrinkage ratio is higher than that of the yarn.
Highly shrinkable light and shade dyeable yarn characterized by being blended with a drawn yarn having a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more and a hot water shrinkage of 15% or more by air entanglement treatment.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an embodiment of the ultrafine light and light dyeing yarn of the present invention, which is a polyester false twist yarn having a single yarn denier of 0.8 d or less and having a horizontal stripe-shaped crimp. The light-colored horizontal stripe crimp portions 1 and the random crimp portions 2 having random crimps and the deep dyeing random crimp portions 2 are alternately provided in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The horizontal stripe crimp portion 1 is a portion in which the phases of crimping of the false twist are aligned and all the filaments are aligned in a wavy shape in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn. It can be formed by locally inserting the excessive twist generated. The random crimp portion 2 is a portion having a crimped form of a normal false-twisted crimped yarn.

In general, a yarn composed of ultrafine yarn having a single-fiber fineness of 0.8 d or less, even if a deep-dyeing part and a light-dyeing part are formed by non-uniform stretching or the like, the deep-dyeing part Is difficult to dye
The fabric cannot be given a shade of color change. However, since the crimped form of the ultra-dense and lightly dyeable yarn of the present invention is different between the deeply dyeable part and the lightly dyeable part, the difference in light and light dyeability is emphasized by the difference in the crimp form. Even if it is composed of ultra-fine yarns of 0.8d or less, if it is knitted and woven and dyed, it is possible to give a clear difference in shades and shades to the fabric.

The yarn of the present invention has a single yarn fineness of 0.8 d.
Since it is composed of the following ultrafine yarns, in addition to the above-mentioned shading effect, it is possible to give a soft texture to the fabric due to the fineness of the single yarn fineness. If the single-fiber fineness exceeds 0.8 d, it is not possible to sufficiently impart a soft feel to the fabric.

Further, the yarn of the present invention is characterized in that the filament between the single filaments constituting the horizontal stripe crimp portion and the random crimp portion is formed.
The difference in fineness is as small as 20% or less.
Thick parts and details cannot be distinguished. For this reason, the deep-colored portion formed in the unstretched portion, such as a yarn having a thick portion (unstretched portion) and details (stretched portion) formed by uneven stretching, may be embrittled by heat or the like. Absent.

Next, the highly shrinkable dark and light dyeable yarn of the present invention comprises:
The above-mentioned ultra-thin light and light dyeable yarn and a maximum heat shrinkage stress of 0.4 g
/ D or more, and the hot water shrinkage rate is 10
% And a drawn yarn having a hot water shrinkage of 15% or more are yarns mixed by air entanglement.

[0013] The high shrinkable light and light dyeable yarn of the present invention is composed of a highly shrinkable drawn yarn and a low shrinkage ultrafine light and light dyeable yarn, and is obtained by knitting and weaving this yarn. When the fabric is heat-treated, the highly shrinkable drawn yarn shrinks, and the ultra-thin light and light dyeable yarn emerges on the surface of the fabric. For this reason, in addition to the color difference, the bulkiness and softness are further emphasized, and the peach skin tone is obtained.

As described above, in order to impart a peach skin-like texture to a fabric, a drawn yarn mixed with an ultrafine light and light dyeing yarn must have the above-mentioned physical properties, If the stress is less than 0.4 g / d, the fabric cannot be sufficiently shrunk in the state of the fabric because of the structure. On the other hand, if the hot water shrinkage of the drawn yarn is less than 15% or the difference in hot water shrinkage is less than 10%, the fine and lightly dyeable yarn cannot be sufficiently raised on the surface of the fabric.

Next, a description will be given of an example of a method for producing the ultra-fine light and light dyeable yarn and the highly shrinkable light and light dyeable yarn of the present invention.

The single-fiber fineness is 0.8d or less and the birefringence is 20 ×
As a supply yarn, a highly oriented polyester unstretched yarn of 10 ^-3 to 80 × 10 ^-3 was used to increase the birefringence and density without drastically changing the orientation in the longitudinal direction of the yarn before drawing false twisting. The part is formed locally. In order to provide the above-mentioned physical property unevenness,
For example, water may be intermittently attached without stretching the yarn, followed by heat treatment to increase the birefringence and density other than the portion where the water is attached. The heat treatment temperature at this time was 100 yarn speeds.
In the case of m / min, 200 to 300 ° C. is preferable.

Next, the yarn is subjected to draw false twisting,
An ultra-fine dark and light dyeable yarn of the present invention is obtained. In the stretch false twisting process,
By simultaneously mixing the high and low birefringence and low density portions in the false twisting zone, the real twist is intensively inserted into the low twist portions to generate double twist. After the stretch false twisting process, the concentrated portion of the twist becomes a lightly dyeable horizontal stripe crimp portion. The other part is a random crimp part having a normal false twist crimp, and shows a deep dyeing property because it has been subjected to a heat treatment before the stretch false twisting. The conditions for the stretch false twisting process are not particularly limited as long as both portions are present simultaneously in the false twisting and twisting zone, but the stretching ratio is 1.1 to 1.5 times and the number of false twists (28000 to 38000). / D ^1/2 (D is the yarn fineness after false twisting) T /
It is preferable to employ the conditions of M and a temperature of 150 to 200 ° C.

[0018] Further, the ultra-fine dark and light dyeable yarn obtained above has a maximum heat shrinkage stress of 0.4 g / d or more, and a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more than the yarn, and a heat shrinkage of 15% or more. The drawn yarn having a water shrinkage is mixed with air by an air entanglement treatment to obtain a highly shrinkable light and shade dyeable yarn of the present invention. The fineness of the drawn yarn is not particularly limited, but a yarn composed of a single filament larger than the single yarn fineness of the ultra-thin light and light dyeable yarn is preferable. In addition, 2 in high shrinkable light and light dyeable yarn
As for the weight ratio of the yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the ratio of the fine and lightly dyeable yarn is larger than that of the drawn yarn.

The drawn yarn having the above-mentioned properties can be obtained, for example, by spinning and drawing a polyethylene terephthalate-based copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing an isophthalic acid component at 10 mol%. Further, the fluid jet nozzle used for air entanglement processing of the two yarns may be either an interlace type or a Taslan type.

[0020]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.

Examples 1 and 2, Comparative Examples 1 and 2 Using 80d / 164f polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence: 62.7 × 10 ^-3 ) obtained by high-speed spinning, intermittently applied to the yarn. Attach an aqueous liquid that has a heat shielding effect, and set the heater temperature to 230.
Heat treatment was performed at 0 ° C. and an overfeed rate of 0%. Note that the length of the liquid adhered is 7 cm, and the liquid adhering part is 12.5 of the total yarn length.
%. Next, the false twist temperature is 180 ° C and the false twist number is
Stretch false twisting at 4017 ^Z T / M, stretch ratio 1.280,
An ultra-fine dark and light dyeable yarn (processed yarn 1) of the present invention was obtained.

A highly oriented 80d / 48f polyester undrawn yarn (birefringence: 50.1 × 10 ⁻³ ) was not heat-treated first,
Extrusion false twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio was set to 1.455, and a processed yarn 2 for comparison was obtained.

When the yarn obtained above was observed in the opened state, the yarn (processed yarn 1) of the present invention was intermittently 7 cm long and had a crimped shape in a uniform state. There was a crimped portion with horizontal stripes, and a random crimped portion in which three-dimensional crimps were randomly present was formed in other portions. On the other hand, the processed yarn 2 for comparison was a crimped yarn having only a three-dimensional random crimp. Table 1 shows the physical properties of the obtained yarn.

[0024]

[Table 1]

Next, a polyethylene terephthalate-based copolyester containing 10 mol% of an isophthalic acid component is spun and stretched, and the hot water shrinkage is 32% and the maximum heat shrinkage stress is 0.5 g.
/ D of 30d / 12f was obtained.

The overfeed rate of this yarn is 0.5%,
The air entanglement process is performed simultaneously with the overfeed rate of the processed yarn 1 or the processed yarn 2 at 2% and the pressure of the air entangled nozzle of 4 kg / cm ² to obtain the highly shrinkable light and shade dyeable yarn of the present invention (set with the processed yarn 1). Combination: Processing yarn 3) and processing yarn 4 (combination with processing yarn 2):
The processed yarn 4) was obtained. A woven fabric was manufactured using each of the obtained yarns as shown in Table 2.

[0027]

[Table 2]

Next, the fabric obtained above was dyed dark green with a disperse dye in accordance with a usual polyester dyeing method. Among the obtained fabrics, the fabric of Example 1 had a pattern effect in which yellow was distinct in dark green. Also,
The woven fabric of Example 2 also has a pattern effect in which a yellowish color is formed in a dark green color as in Example 1, and is voluminous and softer than that of Example 1, and has a peach skin tone. Met.

On the other hand, the woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 is a single color of green and has no surface effect, and the woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 is bulky, but has a color between the two yarns of the processed yarn 4. Therefore, the surface of the fabric was irritated.

[0030]

According to the present invention, the ultra-fine light and light dyeable yarn and the high shrinkable light and light dyeable yarn have the above-mentioned constitution.
By dyeing, a clear shade effect appears in addition to the softness of the ultrafine yarn, and a fabric having an excellent surface effect can be obtained. Further, in addition to the above-mentioned effects, the highly shrinkable light and shade dyeable yarn shrinks sufficiently even when the highly shrinkable drawn yarn is in a fabric state, so that a peach skin-like bulky fabric can be obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of an ultra-fine light and light dyeable yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a normal crimped false twisted yarn.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Horizontal stripe crimp part 2 Random crimp part

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Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. A polyester false twist yarn having a single yarn fineness of 0.8 d or less, wherein a horizontal stripe crimp portion and a random crimp portion are present alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and a horizontal stripe crimp portion and a random crimp portion are formed. Within 20%
Ri, ultrafine gray dyeing yarn which is characterized in that the random crimp is deeply stained with from horizontal stripes crimp. 2. The yarn of claim 1, wherein said yarn has a maximum heat shrinkage stress of 0.4 g / d or more, and a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more and 15% or more than said yarn. A highly shrinkable light and shade dyeable yarn characterized by being blended with a drawn yarn having a hot water shrinkage rate by an air entanglement treatment.