JPH086221B2 - Method for producing silk-like crimped yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial field of application) The present invention uses false-twist processing using a polyester-based multifilament of different shape, different fineness and different shrinkage mixed yarn, and uses the obtained processed yarn. The present invention relates to a method for producing a silk-like crimped yarn capable of imparting an excellent dry feeling and swelling feeling to a woven or knitted fabric.

(Prior Art) The characteristics of silk woven and knitted fabrics are that dryness, swelling, flexibility, etc. are the basics, and that they have a deep and calm color tone and glossy feeling.

Conventionally, many methods have been proposed for producing silk-like crimped yarns using synthetic fibers, especially polyester-based multifilament yarns, but the woven and knitted fabrics using the textured yarns obtained by either method are also mentioned above. Although some of the characteristics of the silk woven or knitted fabric are satisfied, many of the other characteristics are insufficient, and it is the current situation that no processed yarn has been obtained that can satisfy almost all the characteristics of the silk woven or knitted fabric. is there.

For example, Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. Sho 49-45731 proposes a method of false twisting three or more kinds of mixed yarns of different fineness. The textured yarn obtained by this method has a silky surface touch or Although it can give a feeling of elasticity and firmness, it has a drawback that it lacks the natural surface feeling, mild luster, and deep coloring that are necessary for silk woven or knitted fabrics. In addition, JP-A-52
-85545 discloses that when falsely twisting a mixed yarn of different fineness,
A method for fluid confounding has been proposed. A textured woven or knitted fabric can be obtained from the processed yarn obtained by this method, but it is not possible to impart appropriate tension, waist, and a natural surface feel.

In addition, the modified cross-section yarn in which the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn is a triangle cross-section or a cross-section with star-shaped protrusions has been put to practical use as it imparts a glossy and texture-free feel that cannot be obtained with conventional synthetic fibers. There is. In addition, a mixed yarn in which different types of polymer-based yarns or modified cross-section yarns are combined on the basis of the different shrinkage mixed yarn is recognized to have a silky swelling feeling and an improvement in glossiness due to the different shrinkage effect. However, even with these modified cross-section yarns and heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarns, it was not possible to express the natural surface feeling, moderate tension, waist, mild luster, and deep coloring that are characteristic of silk woven or knitted fabrics.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks and has appropriate tension, waist, and mild luster as seen in a silk woven or knitted fabric, and has a wrinkle rising property and a dry feeling and swelling. It is a technical object to provide a method for producing a silk-like crimped yarn capable of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having an excellent feeling and a deep color tone.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The inventors of the present invention have conducted extensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned object, and as a result, as the polyester yarn to be supplied to the false twisting process, three elements of irregular cross section, different contraction, and different fineness are selected. By selecting the combined yarns and applying false twisting under specific conditions, it has the appropriate tension, waist, and mild luster similar to those found in silk woven and knitted fabrics, and has a wrinkle rising property and a dry feel and swelling. The present invention has been achieved by finding that it is possible to produce a silk-like crimped yarn capable of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having an excellent feeling and a deep color tone.

That is, the present invention is composed of three or more types of deformed single yarn groups having a non-circular cross-sectional shape, the maximum difference in boiling water shrinkage rate between individual single yarn groups is 10 to 30%, and the boiling water shrinkage rate of the entire yarn is 15%. ~ 30%
And the single yarn fineness of each irregularly shaped single yarn group is 0.2
Polyester multifilament yarns with different fineness in the range of ~ 7.0 denier, The present invention is directed to a method for producing a silk-like crimped yarn, which is characterized by performing false twisting at a false twist heater temperature of 160 to 190 ° C.

 However, D is the fineness (denier) of the false twist textured yarn.

 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

In the present invention, the selection of the polyester yarn to be supplied to the false twisting process is extremely important,
In order to impart a waist, a mild luster, and a dry feeling and a bulging feeling, it is necessary to use a yarn in which the three elements of the irregular cross section, the different shrinkage, and the different fineness satisfy the following three conditions. That is, the cross-sectional shape consists of three or more types of irregularly shaped single yarn groups, the maximum difference in boiling water shrinkage between irregularly shaped single yarn groups is 10 to 30%, and the boiling water shrinkage rate of the entire yarn is 15 to 30%.
And the single yarn fineness of each irregularly shaped single yarn group is 0.2 to
It is essential that they have different fineness in the range of 7.0 denier.

In order to impart appropriate tension, waist, swelling, dryness, and mild luster and deep color to the fabric as seen in silk woven or knitted fabric, as described above, 3 or more types, preferably 6 to 9 are used. It is necessary to use a multifilament yarn consisting of different types of single yarns of irregular shape. When a yarn consisting of irregularly shaped single yarn groups of less than three groups is used, when a twisting action is applied in the false twisting process, the convex portions of other single yarns enter into the concave portions of the single yarns and the single yarns and the single yarns adhere to each other. When it is woven or knitted, it lacks bulge and dry feeling.

Further, as will be described later, the maximum difference in boiling water shrinkage between individual single yarn groups of the obtained false twisted yarn is set to 3 to 15%, and the boiling water shrinkage of the entire yarn is set to 4 to 8%. In order to prevent deterioration of process passability due to loop fluff during weaving, good texture and dimensional stability, and to impart a swelling feeling to the woven or knitted fabric after dyeing without causing a nap feeling, individual single yarn groups It is necessary to use multifilament yarn with a maximum difference in boiling water shrinkage between 10 to 30% and a boiling water shrinkage for the entire yarn in the range of 15 to 30%.

Furthermore, in order to give the fabric a dry feel and flexibility, it is necessary that the individual yarn diameters of the individual deformed single yarn groups have different fineness in the range of 0.2 to 7.0 denier. Is less than 0.2 denier, softness is obtained but dryness and swelling are not obtained. On the other hand, when it is more than 7.0 denier, dryness is obtained, but flexibility is lacking, and the woven and knitted fabrics have a large fineness. It is not preferable because the gloss of becomes abnormal.

The present invention uses a yarn in which three elements of irregular cross section, different contraction, and fineness satisfy the above three conditions, By false twisting at a false twist heater temperature of 160 to 190 ° C,
The maximum difference in boiling water shrinkage between individual single yarn groups is 3 to 15%, and the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the entire yarn is in the range of 4 to 8%. A silk-like crimped yarn is produced which has a good luster, is excellent in wrinkle rising and is dry and swelling, and can obtain a woven or knitted product having a deep color tone.

In order to give a woven or knitted fabric a dry feel, a bulge feel, flexibility and mild luster, the number of false twists and the false twist heater temperature during false twisting must satisfy the above range. False twist number When it is less than 1, the obtained textured yarn is a low crimped textured yarn with no sublime. On the other hand, the false twist number is When it exceeds, the threadability is lowered and thread breakage is liable to occur, and fluff occurs in the obtained processed yarn, and it becomes impossible to obtain a processed yarn that can be practically used.

Further, the false twist heater temperature must be set to 160 to 190 ° C, and when it is less than 160 ° C, the crimp fixing property of the textured yarn is weak, so that the textured yarn is poor in sublimation and has no conjugation property. on the other hand,
If the false twist heater temperature is higher than 190 ° C, the crimpability is impaired, the feeling of swelling is eliminated, and the fluff is generated to reduce the strength, so that a processed yarn that cannot be used practically cannot be obtained.

As described above, the silk-like crimped yarn obtained by the present invention has a maximum difference of 3 to 15% in boiling water shrinkage between individual single yarn groups of the obtained false twisted yarn, and the boiling water shrinkage of the entire yarn. 4 to 8%
By setting the range to the range, it is possible to prevent deterioration of process passability due to loop fluff during weaving and knitting, and to provide good texture and dimensional stability, and to impart a swelling feeling to the woven and knitted fabric after dyeing without causing a feeling of bloating. Is something that can be done. on the other hand,
If the maximum difference in boiling water shrinkage is less than 3%, the woven or knitted fabric will have a less bulging feeling and will be flat, and the wrinkle rising property will also deteriorate. On the other hand, if it exceeds 15%, the entanglement between the single yarns is large and the disorder between the single yarns becomes large, and the loop fluff during the weaving and weaving deteriorates the process passability, and a feeling of fluffiness also occurs in the texture, which is not preferable. . In addition, the boiling water shrinkage of the entire yarn is 4%
When it is less than the above range, the woven and knitted fabric is poor in bulging feeling and the wrinkle-raising property is deteriorated. On the other hand, when it exceeds 8%, loop fluff reduces the processability and the dimensional stability of the woven and knitted product is deteriorated.

The polyester multifilament yarn supplied to the false twisting process in the present invention includes polyethylene terephthalate or polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and 5-Na.
-A polyester obtained by copolymerizing sulfoisophthalic acid or the like can be used.

In addition, in terms of raster surface, any of semi-dal, bright or full-dal may be used.

Furthermore, the cross-sectional shape is irregular when the degree of irregularity defined as follows is 50 or more. If the cross-sectional shape can be discriminated as an irregular shape at a glance, it is determined as an irregular shape without measuring the degree of irregularity.

As shown in Fig. 2, in an arbitrary cross section of a single yarn constituting a multifilament yarn, the radius of the largest circle inscribed in the cross section is r ₁ , the radius of the smallest circle circumscribed is r _2, and [(r ₂
−r ₁ ) / r ₂ ] × 100 is defined as the degree of irregularity.

In addition, the boiling water shrinkage was measured by measuring the sample length l ₀ before boiling water treatment and the sample length l ₁ after treatment in boiling water for 30 minutes in an unstressed state [(l ₀ −l ₁ ) / l ₀ ]. It is a value calculated from the formula of × 100. The sample length was measured under the condition that a load of denier x 1 / 30g was applied to the yarn supplied to the false twisting process and a load of denier x 1 / 10g was applied to the false twisted yarn. It is a thing.

The maximum difference in boiling water shrinkage in the present invention means the difference between the highest boiling water shrinkage percentage and the lowest boiling water shrinkage percentage when the boiling water shrinkage percentages of the individual yarn groups are compared.

(Examples) Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to Examples.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.65 and containing 0.22% by weight of titanium oxide was used. The same die was provided with 16 discharge holes each having the shape shown in FIGS. 1 (a), 1 (b), 1 (c) and 1 (d).
Using a spinneret with 48 holes, 6 holes, 21 holes and 5 holes, total 48 holes, spinning temperature 290 ℃, discharge rate 60.2g / min, yarn cooling wind speed
Melt spinning was performed under the conditions of 0.75 m / min and take-up speed of 1500 m / min.
An undrawn yarn consisting of a single yarn group having a cross-sectional shape shown in Fig. 1, e, f, g and h was obtained. The undrawn yarn was drawn at a drawing roller temperature of 78 ° C, a draw ratio of 2.65, and a heat treatment temperature of 165 ° C to obtain a drawn yarn of 150d / 48f.

Table 1 shows the yarn quality of the single yarn group constituting the drawn yarn and the obtained mixed fiber.

Using the obtained mixed fiber as a supply yarn, a ST-6 type false twisting machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Ltd. was subjected to false twisting under the conditions shown in Table 2 to obtain a silk-like crimped yarn. .

The boiling water shrinkage rates of the e, f, g and h single yarn groups constituting the silk-like crimped yarn are 3.2%, 6.1% 9.8% and 14.3%, respectively, and the maximum difference between the boiling water shrinkage rates is 11.1%. The boiling water shrinkage of the entire yarn was 6.5%.

Using the obtained silk-like crimped yarn, a circular knitting machine (KJ-36 type, 30 ″ × 22G, manufactured by Toyota Industries Corporation) was used to knit a Milan rib fabric. This knitted fabric was dyed and finished. The cloth is suitable as a cloth for women's clothing, which has a moderate tension, waist and dry feeling, and flexibility, and also has a rich swelling feeling, deep color tone, and a mild luster, giving a soft and refreshing feeling. Met.

Also, using the silk-like crimped yarn obtained above as the warp and weft of the woven fabric, the warp density is 66 / 2.54 cm, the weft density is 62/2.
The fabric, which is woven into a plain weave at 54 cm and dyed and finished, is a good fabric for women's blouses that has a moderate tension, a firmness, a soft textured surface and a dry feeling, and a natural surface feeling. It was

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, according to the present invention, the false twisting process is performed under the specific conditions by using the polyester multifilament yarn in which the three elements of the irregular cross section, the different shrinkage, and the different fineness satisfy the specific conditions. Since it is applied, the appropriate tension as seen in silk woven fabrics,
It is possible to easily produce a silk-like crimped yarn which has a waist and a mild luster, is excellent in wrinkle rising and is excellent in a dry feeling and a bulging feeling, and can obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a deep color tone.

[Brief description of drawings]

1A to 1D are model diagrams of discharge holes for spinning single yarns having various irregular cross-sectional shapes according to an embodiment of the present invention, FIG.
Figures e to h are cross-sectional views showing the cross-sectional shape of the single yarn obtained from the discharge holes a to d, and Figure 2 is an explanatory view showing the method for measuring the degree of irregularity of the present invention.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A non-circular cross-sectional shape consisting of three or more types of irregularly shaped single yarn groups, and the maximum difference in boiling water shrinkage between individual single yarn groups is
Polyester multifilament yarn with 10 to 30%, boiling water shrinkage of the entire yarn in the range of 15 to 30%, and single-filament fineness of each deformed single yarn group in the range of 0.2 to 7.0 denier , False twist heater A method for producing a silk-like crimped yarn, which is performed by false twisting at a temperature of 160 to 190 ° C. However, it is the fineness (denier) of the false twisted yarn of D.