JP4846989B2 - Gel cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a gel cosmetic that imparts a moisturizing effect to the skin, and more specifically, has a uniform moisturizing effect such as uniform spreading to the skin, no stickiness, and smoothing of the skin, The present invention relates to a gel cosmetic that is excellent in stability over time.

  Phospholipids are known as constituents of biological membranes, and have been used as cosmetic bases having good affinity for skin and high safety. Normally, when phospholipids are dispersed in water, the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of phospholipids are oriented so that they take a spherical (liposomal) structure. For this reason, since a phospholipid spreads with respect to water and does not disperse | distribute with a small amount of phospholipid, it cannot take a gel structure. Further, if a large amount of phospholipid is used, a gel structure can be obtained, but a film thickness feeling or stickiness is generated, which is not preferable in terms of use feeling. On the other hand, the gel-like composition which combined hydrogenated phospholipid, the specific nonionic surfactant, and water is proposed (refer patent document 1). This gel composition has no stickiness, has a moist feeling, and is excellent in use feeling.

JP-A-1-261317

  However, when this gel composition is blended with an electrolyte such as a chelating agent or a pH adjuster used as an antioxidant for a cosmetic base material, for example, a drainage phenomenon that the liquid is separated over time is seen and the stability over time is not excellent. That is the situation. Accordingly, there has been a demand for the development of a gel-like cosmetic that has a uniform spread to the skin, is non-sticky, has an excellent moisturizing effect such as adjusting the texture of the skin, and has excellent stability over time.

  Under such circumstances, the present inventors have conducted extensive research to solve the above problems, and as a result, the gel cosmetics containing hydrogenated phospholipids, nonionic surfactants having a glycerin skeleton and water have safety. It has been found that when it is high and has good usability and feeling of use, and when applied to the skin, it has excellent moisturizing effects such as adjusting the texture of the skin, and also has excellent stability over time, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (A) to (C),
(A) Hydrogenated phospholipid (B) Nonionic surfactant having a glycerin skeleton (C) The present invention relates to a gel cosmetic comprising water. Furthermore, it is related with the gel-like cosmetics characterized by mix | blending component (D) polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether and / or polyoxyethylene phytosteryl ether.

  The gel cosmetic of the present invention has a uniform spread to the skin, no stickiness, excellent moisturizing effect such as adjusting the texture of the skin, and excellent stability over time.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The component (A) hydrogenated phospholipid used in the present invention has a good feeling of use such as adjusting the texture of the skin and making the spread of the cosmetics uniform, and the component (B) of the present invention. , (C) to form a gel.

  Since phospholipids contain a lot of unsaturated fatty acids and are unstable to oxidation and heat, hydrogenated phospholipids obtained by hydrogenating phospholipids are used in the present invention. The component (A) hydrogenated phospholipid used in the present invention preferably has an iodine value of 0 to 40 in terms of stability to oxidation and heat. For example, natural lecithin extracted from soybeans, egg yolks and the like is used in a conventional manner. In addition to those hydrogenated according to the above, those obtained by hydrogenating phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylserine, neutral phospholipid, and the like can be used, and one or more of these can be used in combination. In particular, the use of a phosphatidylcholine (hereinafter abbreviated as PC) content of 20% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”) or more is desirable in terms of gel formation and usability.

  The blending amount of the component (A) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.3 to 10% in the cosmetic from the viewpoint of gel formation. In order to make the feeling of use such as uniform stickiness and non-stickiness, 1 to 5% is more preferable.

  The nonionic surfactant having the glycerin skeleton of the component (B) of the present invention is combined with the water of the component (A) hydrogenated phospholipid and the component (C) to produce a gel of the gel cosmetic of the present invention. Is used.

  Component (B) Nonionic surfactant having a glycerin skeleton in the present invention refers to a nonionic surfactant in which one or two hydroxyl groups in glycerin are esterified or etherified, and is used in cosmetics. If it is a thing, it will not specifically limit.

  Specific examples of the glycerin fatty acid ester include glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monoisostearate, and glyceryl distearate. Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters include diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl dioleate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, tetraglyceryl monostearate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl triisostearate, penta Tetraglyceryl stearate, tetraglyceryl pentaoleate, hexaglyceryl monolaurate, hexaglyceryl monomyristate, hexaglyceryl monostearate, hexaglyceryl monooleate, hexaglyceryl tristearate, hexaglyceryl pentastearate, hexapentaoleate Glyceryl, hexaglyceryl polyricinoleate, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monomyristate, Decaglyceryl nostearate, decaglyceryl monooleate, decaglyceryl monolinoleate, decaglyceryl monoisostearate, decaglyceryl distearate, decaglyceryl diisostearate, decaglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl trioleate, decaglyceryl pentastearate Examples include glyceryl, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, decaglyceryl pentaisostearate, decaglyceryl pentaisostearate, degaglyceryl heptearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, decaglyceryl decastearate, decaglyceryl decaoleate, decaglyceryl decaisostearate, etc. It is done. In addition, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester includes polystearic acid polyoxyethylene (5 mol) glyceryl, monostearic acid polyoxyethylene (15 mol) glyceryl, monooleic acid polyoxyethylene (5 mol) glyceryl, monooleic acid poly Examples include oxyethylene (15 mol) glyceryl. Examples of the alkyl glyceryl ether include glycerin monostearyl ether, glycerin monocetyl ether, and glycerin monooleyl ether. Examples of the alkyl glyceryl ether fatty acid ester include batyl stearate and batyl isostearate. These nonionic surfactants having a glycerin skeleton can be used alone or in combination of two or more as required.

  In the present invention, the nonionic surfactant having a glycerin skeleton as component (B) is more preferably an HLB value of 11 or less because the stability over time is good.

    Specific examples of the nonionic surfactant having a glycerin skeleton having an HLB value of 11 or less include glyceryl fatty acid esters such as glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monostearate, and glyceryl monooleate. Glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl distearate and the like. Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters include diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl dioleate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, tetraglyceryl monostearate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl triisostearate, penta Tetraglyceryl stearate, tetraglyceryl pentaoleate, hexaglyceryl monomyristate, hexaglyceryl monostearate, hexaglyceryl monooleate, hexaglyceryl tristearate, hexaglyceryl pentastearate, hexaglyceryl pentaoleate, polyricinoleic acid Hexaglyceryl, decaglyceryl distearate, decaglyceryl diisostearate, decaglyceryl tristearate Decaglyceryl trioleate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, decaglyceryl pentaisostearate, decaglyceryl pentaisostearate, degaglyceryl heptearate, decaglyceryl heptaoleate, decaglyceryl decastearate, decaglyceryl decaoleate Examples thereof include glyceryl and decaglyceryl decaisostearate. Examples of the polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester include polyoxyethylene (5 mol) glyceryl monostearate, polyoxyethylene (5 mol) glyceryl monooleate, and the like. Examples of the alkyl glyceryl ether include glycerin monostearyl ether, glycerin monocetyl ether, and glycerin monooleyl ether. Examples of the alkyl glyceryl ether fatty acid ester include batyl stearate and batyl isostearate. These nonionic surfactants having a glycerin skeleton can be used alone or in combination of two or more as required.

  Of these, decaglyceryl pentastearate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, glyceryl monostearate, and glycerin monostearyl ether are particularly preferable from the viewpoints of gel formation and stability over time.

  The blending amount of the component (B) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of gel formation and stability over time, it is 0.1 to 5% in the cosmetic, has no stickiness, and has a smooth feel. From the feeling of use such as good spread, 0.3 to 3% is more preferable.

  In the present invention, when the blending mass ratio (A) / (B) of the component (A) to the component (B) is 0.5 or more and 10 or less, the lamellar liquid crystal structure is taken, and the stability over time is improved. preferable.

  The water of component (C) used in the present invention is that used in ordinary cosmetics. The blending amount of component (C) in the gel cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 30 to 99% in order to obtain a non-sticky feel.

  In the present invention, when the component (D) polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether and / or polyoxyethylene phytosteryl ether is further blended, the aging stability of the gel cosmetic of the present invention becomes better.

  Component (D) polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether and / or polyoxyethylene phytosteryl ether used in the present invention is a nonionic surfactant and is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics. For example, as polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ether, polyoxyethylene (5 mol) cholesteryl ether, polyoxyethylene (10 mol) cholesteryl ether, polyoxyethylene (15 mol) cholesteryl ether, polyoxyethylene (20 mol) cholesteryl ether, poly Examples thereof include oxyethylene (24 mol) cholesteryl ether, polyoxyethylene (30 mol) cholesteryl ether and the like. As polyoxyethylene phytosteryl ether, polyoxyethylene (5 mol) phytosterol, polyoxyethylene (10 mol) phytosterol, poly Examples include oxyethylene (20 mol) phytosterol, polyoxyethylene (30 mol) phytosterol, polyoxyethylene (25 mol) phytostanol. It is. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  In the present invention, the blending amount of component (D) is preferably 0.01 to 3% because stability over time is better, and 0.05 to 1% is particularly preferable because there is no stickiness.

When a whitening agent that gives a whitening effect to the skin is blended in the gel cosmetic of the present invention, the whitening effect is further enhanced and the stability of the whitening agent is also improved. Therefore, the gel cosmetic of the present invention is suitable for the purpose of stably blending the whitening agent. Specific examples include ascorbic acid and its derivatives, hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid, etc. Among them, the use of arbutin, which is a compound of hydroquinone and sugar, reduces the stickiness and also increases the skin penetration and whitening. This is particularly preferable because the effect is further enhanced. The blending amount of arbutin in the present invention is 1 to 7%, and the effect as a whitening agent is high, and particularly 1.5 to 3% is more preferable because it is less sticky when applied to the skin.

  Even if a chelating agent or a pH adjusting agent, which was difficult to be blended with conventional gel cosmetics, is blended with the gel cosmetic of the present invention, the temporal stability is good. Chelating agents and pH adjusters are used to improve the stability of beauty agents that are usually blended in cosmetics, and when used in combination with whitening agents, the whitening agent is stable. Since it can mix | blend, it is preferable.

  Specific examples of the chelating agent include hydroxyethanediphosphonic acid, iminodiacetic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, triethylenetetraminehexaacetic acid, cyclohexane-1,2-diaminetetraacetic acid, and N-hydroxyethyl. Examples include ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, ethyleneglycol diethyletherdiaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetrapropionic acid, and sodium salts thereof. By using ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt and diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid pentasodium salt, a cosmetic agent can be blended stably. Therefore, it is particularly preferable. These can use 1 type (s) or 2 or more types as needed.

  Specific examples of pH adjusters include basic substances such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium phosphate, and disodium hydrogen phosphate such as triethanol. Examples include organic basic substances such as amine, monoethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, and sodium lactate. Examples of acidic substances include inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid and sodium dihydrogen phosphate, citric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and phthalic acid. Organic acids and the like. These can use 1 type (s) or 2 or more types as needed.

  A chelating agent and a pH adjuster may be combined, and one or more of them are appropriately selected from these as required.

  Although the compounding quantity of the chelating agent and pH adjuster in this invention is not specifically limited, From a point of stability with time, 0.01 to 1% is more preferable.

  The gel cosmetic of the present invention can be blended with an oil agent to give the skin a moist feeling. The oil agent used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil agent usually used in cosmetics, and origins such as animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil, and properties such as solid oil, semi-solid oil, liquid oil, and volatile oil. Regardless of oil, oil agents such as hydrocarbons, fats and oils, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine-based oils, lanolin derivatives and the like can be mentioned. Specific examples include hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, polyisobutylene, polybutene, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, and fisher trops wax; molasses, olive oil, castor oil, mink oil, macadamia Oils and fats such as peanut oil; waxes such as montan wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, gay wax; cetyl isooctanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diisostearate Diglyceryl acid, diglyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tribehenate, rosin acid pentaerythritol ester, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol Fatty acid esters, esters such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl); stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, rosin acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid Fatty acids such as acids; higher alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol; low polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, high polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethyl Silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and fluorine-modified silicone; such as perfluoropolyether, perfluorodecane, and perfluorooctane Tsu Motokei oil acids; lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin alcohols; and the like, these can be used alone or in combination.

  The blending amount of the oil agent in the present invention is determined depending on the purpose, but is particularly preferably in the range of 0.5 to 10% because the lamellar liquid crystal structure is easily stabilized.

  In addition to the above components, the gel cosmetic of the present invention has a humectant, an ultraviolet absorber, an antioxidant, an antiseptic, a fragrance, in a quantitative and qualitative range that does not impair the effects of the present invention depending on the purpose. It is possible to mix components commonly used in cosmetics such as beauty agents.

  In addition, the gel form in this invention means that a viscosity value is 1000 mPa * s or more in 20 degreeC.

  The gel cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a liquid crystal lamellar structure. If the gel cosmetic has a liquid crystal lamellar structure, the stability over time will be better.

Further, the gel cosmetic of the present invention is different from the cosmetic imparted with a viscosity by a water-soluble polymer. By combining the components of the present invention, the gel cosmetic is not particularly blended with a water-soluble polymer. Cosmetics can be easily obtained. For this reason, the gel cosmetic of the present invention does not particularly require a water-soluble polymer.

  The gel cosmetic preparation of the present invention can be applied to any of aqueous, solubilized and oil-in-water dosage forms. Moreover, as a gel cosmetics, cosmetics applied directly to the skin such as skin lotion, cosmetic liquid, milky lotion, cream, sunscreen, etc. are preferably mentioned.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention.

Reference Examples 1 to 6, Examples 7 to 9 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3: Whitening gel cosmetic liquid (oil-in-water emulsion type) Gel cosmetic liquid for whitening with the composition shown in Tables 1 to 3 and the following production method ( Oil-in-water emulsification type) was prepared and evaluated for the uniform spread and spread to the skin, no stickiness, the effect of adjusting the texture, and the stability over time by the following evaluation methods, which are also shown in Tables 1 to 3 .

(Manufacturing method)
A. Ingredients 1-4 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
B. Ingredients 5 to 8 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
C. Add A to B and emulsify.
D. C is cooled, and components 9 to 12 are added to obtain a whitening gel serum (oil-in-water emulsion type).

(Evaluation methods)
Ten professional panels tested the use of the whitening gel serum (oil-in-water emulsification type) of the examples and comparative examples. For each, “uniform spread and spread on skin”, “no stickiness” “Same” and “Effects to improve texture” were evaluated on a 7-point scale based on the following evaluation criteria. Furthermore, it judged with the following criteria from the average score of all the panels of the score.
Evaluation criteria [Evaluation results]: [Score]
Very good: 6
Good: 5
Slightly good: 4
Normal: 3
Slightly bad: 2
Defect: 1
Very bad: 0
Judgment criteria [Average score]: [Judgment]
5.5 points or more: ◎
4.5 points or more and less than 5.5 points: ○
2.5 or more and less than 4.5: △
Less than 2.5 points: ×

(Evaluation of stability over time)
The whitening gel cosmetic liquid of Examples and Comparative Examples (oil-in-water emulsification type) was filled into a No. 8 glass standard bottle container, stored at a constant temperature of 50 ° C. for 1 month, and the state was observed visually.
No change in state at all: ◎
Little drainage is observed: ○
There is drainage of 1 mm or more and less than 5 mm in the upper layer part: △
There is a drainage of 5 mm or more in the upper layer part: ×

As is clear from the results in Tables 1 to 3, the gel cosmetic liquids of Reference Examples 1 to 6 and Examples 7 to 9 (whitening type) have a uniform spread to the skin, no stickiness, and skin texture. It was a gel whitening cosmetic liquid (oil-in-water emulsified type) that was excellent in moisturizing effect such as adjusting the color, and also stable over time. Moreover, all of Reference Examples 1 to 6 and Examples 7 to 9 had a viscosity value at 20 ° C. of 1000 mPa · s or more. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in which Component 1 and Component 5 were not blended did not form a gel (viscosity values at 20 ° C. were 500 mPa · s and 300 mPa · s, respectively). Moreover, although the comparative example 3 which mix | blended polyoxyethylene (4) stearyl ether instead of the component 1 glycerol monostearyl ether formed gel, stability with time was not favorable.

Example 10: Gel lotion (component) (%)
1. Glyceryl monostearate 0.5
2. Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid * 1 0.5
3. Glycerin 10.0
4.1,3-Butylene glycol 10.0
5). Ethanol 10.0
6). Perfume appropriate amount 7. Purified water remaining amount 8. Arbutin 1.0

(Production method)
A. Ingredients 1-4 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed uniformly.
B. Ingredients 5-8 are mixed uniformly.
C. B was added to A to obtain a gel lotion.

  The gel lotion of Example 10 is a gel lotion that is uniform in spreading to the skin, has no stickiness, has an excellent moisturizing effect such as adjusting the texture of the skin, and has excellent stability over time. there were.

Example 11: Whitening gel emulsion (oil-in-water emulsion type)
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Decaglyceryl pentastearate 0.5
2. Polyoxyethylene (10 mol) cholesteryl ether 0.2
3. Jojoba oil 3.0
4). Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid * 2 2.5
5). Glycerin 5.0
6). Dipropylene glycol 10.0
7). Purified water remaining amount 8. Arbutin 7.0
9. Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid disodium salt 0.1
10. Succinic acid 0.1
11. Ethanol 5.0
* 2: Resinol S-10 (Nikko Chemicals)

(Production method)
A. Ingredients 1-6 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
B. Ingredients 7 to 10 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
C. Add B to A and emulsify.
D. C was cooled and component 11 was added to obtain a whitening gel emulsion (oil-in-water emulsion type).

  The whitening gel emulsion of Example 11 (oil-in-water emulsification type) is uniform in spreading to the skin, has no stickiness, is excellent in moisturizing effects such as adjusting the texture of the skin, and is stable over time. It was an excellent whitening gel emulsion (oil-in-water emulsion type).

Example 12: Whitening gel sunscreen (oil-in-water emulsion type)
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Decaglyceryl pentaoleate 1.5
2. Polyoxyethylene (10 mol) cholesteryl ether 1.0
3. Hydrogenated soybean phospholipid * 1 1.5
4). Glycerin 5.0
5). 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 5.0
6). Dipropylene glycol 10.0
7). Purified water remaining amount 8. Arbutin 3.0
9. Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid pentasodium salt 0.1
10. Malic acid 0.2
11. Ethanol 2.0
12 Perfume appropriate amount13. Methyl paraoxybenzoate

(Production method)
A. Ingredients 1-6 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
B. Ingredients 7 to 10 are heated to 75 ° C. and mixed and dissolved uniformly.
C. Add B to A and emulsify.
D. C was cooled, components 11 to 13 were added, and a gelled sunscreen (whitening type) was obtained.

The whitening gel sunscreen of Example 12 (oil-in-water emulsification type) is uniform in spreading to the skin, has no stickiness, has excellent moisturizing effects such as adjusting the texture of the skin, and is stable over time. It was a gelling sunscreen (oil-in-water emulsification type) for whitening that had excellent properties.

Claims (2)

The following components (A) to (D),
(A) Hydrogenated phospholipid 1-5 mass%
(B) Glycerin monostearyl ether 0.1-5 mass%
(C) Water (D) Polyoxyethylene (5) Cholesteryl ether and / or Polyoxyethylene (5) Phytosteryl ether 0.01-3 mass%
The blending mass ratio (A) / (B) of the component (A) and the component (B) is 0.5 or more and 10 or less, does not contain a water-soluble polymer, and has a lamellar liquid crystal structure. Gel-like cosmetic characterized by The gel cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (D) is polyoxyethylene (5) cholesteryl ether.