JP4907997B2 - Lip cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a lip cosmetic, and more specifically, by containing a dextrin fatty acid ester, a metal soap, a specific ester oil and a specific hydrocarbon oil, stability over time is good while reducing stickiness and usability Further, the present invention relates to a lip cosmetic with good transparency and excellent gloss and long-lasting makeup.

  Conventionally, lip cosmetics have been studied for selection of blending ingredients and blending amounts in order to obtain various sensory and cosmetic effects. Recently, products that have a glossy and transparent makeup effect have been preferred, and various studies have been made. For example, there is a technique in which an oil gelling agent such as dextrin fatty acid ester or 12-hydroxystearic acid is combined with an oil agent that can polish a coating film such as heavy liquid isoparaffin, polybutene, or methylphenyl polysiloxane. (For example, Patent Documents 1 to 3) These were excellent in terms of glossiness and transparency, but were not satisfactory in usability because there was stickiness of the coated part and the elongation became heavy. It was. In addition to the above-described cosmetic effect, the usability aspect of being extremely light and smooth without any stickiness during application has become an important factor. Therefore, by examining the combination of oil agents, the technology that achieved light usability (for example, Patent Document 4) and the use of specific amounts of dextrin fatty acid ester and diisostearyl malate to reduce stickiness and improve adhesion There is a technology that realizes cosmetics with excellent gloss. (For example, Patent Document 5)

JP-A-9-235210 JP-A-11-222413 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2002-3340 JP 2001-114648 A JP 2003-1113024 A

  However, the technology that studied the combination of oils was able to obtain smooth and light usability, but was not satisfactory in terms of transparency and sustaining gloss after application. In addition, the technology that achieves cosmetics with excellent adhesion and gloss by using a specific amount of specific raw materials, while reducing stickiness, is not satisfactory for smooth and light usability, but is transparent and excellent At the same time, it has not been possible to obtain a lip cosmetic that satisfies both a smooth and light use feeling.

  As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventor has good usability and transparency by containing dextrin fatty acid ester, metal soap, specific ester oil and specific hydrocarbon oil. The present inventors have found that a lip cosmetic excellent in gloss and makeup can be obtained, and have completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (A) to (D),
(A) Dextrin fatty acid ester (B) Metal soap (C) Ester oil that is liquid at room temperature of molecular weight 300-1000 having one or two hydroxyl groups in the molecule (D) The viscosity at 20 ° C. is 20 Pa · s or more 5 to 50% by mass of liquid hydrocarbon oil
It is related with the lip cosmetics characterized by containing.

  The lip cosmetic of the present invention relates to a lip cosmetic that has good stability over time while reducing stickiness, good usability (lightness, smoothness), good transparency, and excellent gloss and long-lasting makeup. .

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
As the dextrin fatty acid ester of component (A) used in the lip cosmetic of the present invention, an ester of dextrin and preferably a higher fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms is used. Specifically, dextrin octanoate and lauric acid are used. Dextrin, dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate, dextrin stearate, dextrin behenate, coconut oil fatty acid dextrin, (palmitic acid / octanoic acid) dextrin and the like. Of these, dextrin palmitate is most preferable from the viewpoint of shape stability and usability. Examples of commercially available products of these dextrin fatty acid esters include “Leo Pearl KL”, “Leo Pearl KE”, “Leo Pearl TT”, “Leo Pearl TL” (manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.), and the like.
Although content of a component (A) is not specifically limited, Preferably it is 0.1-10 mass% (henceforth only showing as "%") in the whole quantity, More preferably, it is 1-5%. If the content is in this range, light, smooth usability, makeup, and good stability over time can be obtained. These oily gelling agents can be used alone or in combination of two or more as required.

Specific examples of the component (B) metal soap used in the present invention include aluminum stearate, aluminum isostearate, magnesium stearate, magnesium isostearate, aluminum myristate, and magnesium myristate. Of these, aluminum stearate is most preferable in terms of light usability and transparency.
Although content of a component (B) is not specifically limited, Preferably it is 0.1 to 10%, More preferably, it is 1 to 5%. If it is this range, the thing excellent in the point of the outstanding gloss, light smooth useability, and a transparent feeling will be obtained.

As the component (C) used in the present invention, ester oil which is liquid at room temperature having a molecular weight of 300 to 1,000 having one or two hydroxyl groups in the molecule is used. A molecular weight of 500 to 1000 is preferred because the effect is more prominent in terms of gloss, usability and transparency.
Specifically, the ester oil having a molecular weight of 300 to 1000 having one or two hydroxyl groups in the molecule of component (C) is, for example, isostearyl lactate, octyl dodecyl lactate, oleyl lactate, stearyl lactate, glyceryl diisostearate, Examples thereof include diglyceryl triisostearate and diisostearyl malate. These 1 type (s) or 2 or more types can be selected suitably, and can be used. Among these, examples that can further improve the light usability and gloss of the present invention include diglyceryl triisostearate and diisostearyl malate having one hydroxyl group in the molecule.
Although content of a component (C) is not specifically limited, Preferably it is 10 to 90%, More preferably, it is 20 to 70%. If content is this range, what was excellent in the point of gloss, usability, and a transparent feeling will be obtained. Moreover, these ester oil agents can use 1 type, or 2 or more types as needed.
Moreover, it is preferable at the point of shape stability, a transparent feeling, and glossiness that a component (C) is 1: 4-1: 70 with respect to a component (B) by mass ratio.

The liquid hydrocarbon oil having a viscosity of 20 Pa · s or higher at 20 ° C. of the component (D) used in the present invention is contained in order to improve the gloss and adhesion of the decorative film. Any of those usually used in cosmetics can be used, and examples thereof include heavy liquid isoparaffin, polybutene, polyisobutene, and α-olefin oligomer. Among them, heavy liquid isoparaffin, polybutene, and polyisobutene are used. Is preferred. Examples of commercially available products include Pearl Ream 18, Pearl Ream 24, Pearl Ream 46 (above, manufactured by Nippon Oil & Fats Co., Ltd.), Polybutene 100R, Polybutene 300R, Polybutene 2000H (Emitted from Idemitsu Petrochemical Co., Ltd.) Moreover, these can use 1 type (s) or 2 or more types as needed.
Content of a component (D) is 5 to 50%, Preferably it is 10 to 40%. If it is less than 5%, a good product cannot be obtained in terms of gloss and makeup, and if it exceeds 50%, a product in terms of usability cannot be obtained.

  In the lip cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, oily components such as hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, vegetable oils, water-holding oils, silicone oils, silicone derivatives, etc. Powders such as pigments, organic pigments and extender pigments and their silicone-treated products and fluorine compound-treated products, saccharides, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, preservatives, dyes, fragrances and the like within a range that does not interfere with the effects of the present invention. Can be blended.

  Oily components include hydrocarbons, fats and waxes, regardless of the nature of solid oils, semi-solid oils, liquid oils, volatile oils, etc. , Hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, lanolin derivatives and the like. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, petrolatum, polyethylene wax, ethylene / propylene copolymer, paraffin wax, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, ceresin wax, ozokerite wax, molasses, olive oil, castor oil, Oils and fats such as mink oil and macadamian nut oil, beeswax, geiwa, carnauba wax, waxes such as candelilla wax, jojoba oil, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate , Esters of rosin acid pentaerythritol ester, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, cholesterol fatty acid ester, phytosterol fatty acid ester, fatty acid triglyceride, Fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, higher alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, dimethylpolysiloxane, methyl Phenyl polysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, high polymerization degree methylphenyl polysiloxane, cross-linked organopolysiloxane, polyoxyalkyl-modified organopolysiloxane, cross-linked polyether-modified organopoly Siloxane, methacryl-modified organopolysiloxane, stearyl-modified organopolysiloxane, oleyl-modified organopolysiloxane, Modified organopolysiloxane, polyvinylpyrrolidone modified organopolysiloxane, high degree of polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, polyoxyalkylene / alkylmethylpolysiloxane / methylpolysiloxane copolymer, alkoxy modified organopolysiloxane, cross-linked organopolysiloxane, fluorine modified Examples include silicones such as organopolysiloxane, fluorine-based oils such as perfluorodecane, perfluorooctane, and perfluoropolyether, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, and lanolin alcohol. Two or more species can be used.

  As a powder component, if it is a powder generally used as a powder for cosmetics, it has a spherical shape, a plate shape, a needle shape, a haze shape, a fine particle, a particle size such as a pigment grade, a porous, no It is not particularly limited by the particle structure such as the porosity, and examples thereof include inorganic powders, glitter powders, organic powders, pigment powders, metal powders, composite powders and the like. Specifically, white inorganic pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, barium sulfate, iron oxide, carbon black, titanium / titanium oxide sintered product, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, bitumen, ultramarine blue, etc. Colored inorganic pigments, talc, muscovite, phlogopite, saucite, biotite, synthetic mica, sericite (sericite), synthetic sericite, kaolin, silicon carbide, bentonite, smectite, silicic anhydride, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide White body powders such as zirconium oxide, antimony oxide, diatomaceous earth, aluminum silicate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, Titanium dioxide-coated mica, titanium dioxide-coated bisoxychloride , Titanium oxide mica titanium, bituminized mica titanium, carmine-treated mica titanium, silicon dioxide / titanium dioxide coated mica, titanium oxide coated glass powder, bismuth oxychloride, fish scale foil, polyethylene terephthalate / aluminum / epoxy laminated powder, polyethylene terephthalate / Glossy powder such as polyolefin laminated film powder, polyethylene terephthalate / polymethylmethacrylate laminated film powder, glittering powder with interference light, polyamide resin, polyethylene resin, polyacrylic resin, polyester resin, fluorine resin , Cellulose resin, polystyrene resin, copolymer resin such as styrene-acrylic copolymer resin, polypropylene polymer, organic polymer resin powder such as silicone resin, urethane resin, zinc stearate, N-acyl lysine, etc. Low molecular weight powder, natural organic powder such as silk powder, cellulose powder, red 201, red 202, red 205, red 226, red 228, orange 203, orange 204, blue 404 , Organic pigment powder such as yellow 401, red 3, yellow 104, red 106, orange 205, yellow 4, yellow 5, green 3, blue 1, etc. zirconium, barium or aluminum lake Organic pigment powder such as aluminum powder, metal powder such as aluminum powder, gold powder, silver powder, fine titanium oxide coated mica titanium, fine zinc oxide coated mica titanium, barium sulfate coated mica titanium, titanium oxide-containing silicon dioxide, zinc oxide-containing dioxide Examples include composite powders such as silicon. These powders can be used singly or in combination of two or more. Note that these powders may be used after being surface-treated with a generally known treating agent such as a fluorine compound, a silicone compound, or a surfactant.

  In lip cosmetics, powders are often blended. For the purpose of improving the dispersibility of the powders, any surfactant that is commonly used in cosmetics can be used. , Nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and the like.

  Examples of the antioxidant include α-tocopherol and ascorbic acid. Examples of the beauty component include vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents and herbal medicines. Examples of the preservative include paraoxybenzoic acid ester and phenoxyethanol.

  Examples of the ultraviolet absorber include benzophenone, PABA, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, oxybenzone, and the like.

  The method for producing the lip cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, an oily component containing a dextrin fatty acid ester and a metal soap dissolved at a high temperature has a molecular weight having one or two hydroxyl groups in the molecule. It can be obtained by mixing with ester oil which is liquid at room temperature of 300 to 1000, liquid hydrocarbon oil having a viscosity at 20 ° C. of 20 Pa · s or more, and other components, and then cooled and filled.

  The lip cosmetic of the present invention includes lipsticks, lip glosses, lip treatments, lip balms, and lip bases, with lipsticks and lip glosses being particularly preferred. Shapes include solid, semi-solid, liquid, etc., which can be poured into a stick or a metal pan, or can be used in a container (applicator) or tube with an applied body, but those that are used in an applicator or tube are preferred. .

  EXAMPLES Next, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated still in detail, this invention is not limited at all by these.

Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5: Lip cosmetics (lip gloss: liquid)
Lip cosmetics were prepared according to the formulation shown in Table 1 below, and stability with time, usability (lightness, smoothness), gloss, transparency, and long-lasting makeup were evaluated and evaluated by the following methods. The results are also shown in Table 1.

* 1: Leopard KL (manufactured by Chiba Flour Mills)
* 2: Aluminum stearate * 3: Diglyceryl triisostearate * 4: Diisostearyl malate * 5: Pearl Ream 18 (manufactured by NOF Corporation)
* 6: Polybutene 2000H (Idemitsu Petrochemical Co., Ltd.)
* 7: AEROSIL R976S (Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.)
* 8: Metashine 1080RC-S (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.) treated with 5% perfluoroalkyl phosphoric acid diethanolamine salt * 9: Treated with 5% dimethylpolysiloxane / methylhydrogenpolysiloxane * 10: Methylhydrogenpoly Siloxane 3% treatment (Production method)
A: Components 1 to 10 are heated to 110 ° C. and mixed uniformly.
B: Components 11 to 15 are added to component A and mixed uniformly.
C: B was poured into a tube container and cooled to obtain a lip cosmetic.

(Evaluation methods)
The following evaluation items were evaluated by the following methods.
(Evaluation item)
A. Stability over time b. Tsuya C. Usability (lightness, smoothness)
D. Transparency e. For makeup holders ro-ho, each sample was tested for use by 20 specialist panels. Each panel panel was evaluated immediately after application for Roni and 6 hours after application for Ho, with the following absolute evaluation, giving a score, and the average value from the total score of all panel members for each sample. Was calculated and determined according to the following four-step criteria.
The stability over time of (a) was judged according to the following four-stage judgment criteria by observing the state of each sample after leaving it to stand at room temperature and 40 ° C. for one month.

<Glossy, usability (lightness, smoothness), transparency, evaluation of makeup duration>
Absolute evaluation criteria (score): (Evaluation)
6 points: very good 5 points: good 4 points: slightly good 3 points: normal 2 points: slightly bad 1 point: bad

4-step criteria (judgment): (average score)
◎: More than 5 points: Very good ○: More than 3 points, 5 points or less: Good △: More than 3 points, 3 points or less: Slightly poor ×: 1 point or less: Bad

<Stability evaluation over time>
4-step criteria (judgment): (state)
A: There is no difference between standing at room temperature and standing at 40 ° C., and no separation occurs.
○: Slight separation is observed on the surface left at 40 ° C., but it can be re-dispersed by pressing lightly without any problem.
(Triangle | delta): Separation is clearly seen on the surface left at 40 degreeC.
X: Separation is observed on the surface both at room temperature and at 40 ° C., and cracks are also observed.

  As is clear from the results in Table 1, the lip cosmetics (lip gloss: liquid) of Examples 1 to 5 of the present invention are more stable over time, glossy, and usable than the lip cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 to 5 ( Lightness, smoothness), transparency, and makeup are all excellent. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 in which the component (A) was not blended, the gelation ability was lowered, and a satisfactory product was not obtained in terms of stability with time and longevity. Moreover, in the comparative example 2 which is not mix | blended with a component (B), what was satisfactory in the point of glossiness and transparency was not obtained. In Comparative Example 3 in which the component (C) is not blended, in terms of usability and transparency, in Comparative Example 4 in which the component (D) is blended in a small amount, a glossy and satisfactory makeup cannot be obtained. It was. Further, in Comparative Example 5 in which a large amount of component (D) was blended, the viscosity was very high, and a satisfactory product was not obtained in terms of usability.

Example 6 Lip cosmetic (lipstick: semi-solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Microcrystalline wax 1
2. Dextrin fatty acid ester * 11 5
3. Metal soap * 12 1
4). Liquid ester oil of component (C) * 3 39.8
5. Liquid ester oil of component (C) * 4 20
6). Liquid ester oil of component (C) * 13 10
7). Liquid hydrocarbon oil of component (D) * 14 8
8). Liquid hydrocarbon oil of component (D) * 15 8
9. Liquid paraffin (viscosity about 10 Pa · s) 5
10. UV absorber (2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate) 0.1
11. Antioxidant (natural vitamin E) 0.1
12 Silicone compound treated bengara * 9 1
13. Fluorine compound-treated titanium oxide coated glass powder * 16 1
* 11: Leopard TL (Chiba Flour Mills)
* 12: Aluminum isostearate * 13: Diglyceryl diisostearate * 14: Pearl Ream 24 (manufactured by NOF Corporation)
* 15: Polybutene 100R (made by Idemitsu Petrochemical Co., Ltd.)
* 16: Metashine 1080RC-R (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.) treated with 5% perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamine salt (production method)
A: Components 1 to 9 are uniformly dissolved and mixed at 110 ° C.
B: Components 10 to 13 are added to component A and mixed uniformly.
C: B was poured into an applicator and cooled to obtain a lip cosmetic.
The lip cosmetic (liquid rouge: gel) obtained in this example was excellent in all of stability over time, gloss, usability (lightness, smoothness), transparency, and makeup.

Example 7 Lip cosmetic (lipstick: solid)
(Ingredient) (%)
1. Paraffin wax 2
2. Beeswax 2
3. Dextrin fatty acid ester * 17 8
4). Metal soap * 18 2
5. Liquid ester oil of component (C) * 3 27
6). Liquid ester oil of component (C) * 4 20
7). Liquid hydrocarbon oil of component (D) * 19 10
8). Liquid hydrocarbon oil of component (D) * 20 15
9. Vaseline 8
10. UV absorber (2-ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate) 0.1
11. Antioxidant (natural vitamin E) 0.1
12 Fluorine oil-treated silicon oxide / Bengala coated aluminum * 21 0.1
13. Titanium oxide coated glass powder * 22 2
14 Red No. 104 1
15. Yellow No. 2 2
16. Black iron oxide 0.5
17. Ultramarine 0.2
* 17: Leo Pearl TT (Chiba Flour Mills)
* 18: Magnesium stearate * 19: Pearl Ream 46 (manufactured by NOF Corporation)
* 20: Polydecene (viscosity about 42 Pa · s)
* 21: Perfluoroalkyl phosphate diethanolamine salt 3% treatment * 22: Metashine 1080RC-R (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.)
(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 9 are uniformly dissolved and mixed at 110 ° C.
B: Components 10 to 17 are added to component A and mixed uniformly.
C: B was poured into a metal dish container and cooled to obtain a lip cosmetic.
The lip cosmetic obtained in this example was excellent in all of the stability over time, gloss, usability (lightness and smoothness), transparency and longevity.

Claims (4)

The following components (A) to (D);
(A) dextrin fatty acid ester (B) aluminum stearate (C) ester oil that is liquid at room temperature of molecular weight 300-1000 having one or two hydroxyl groups in the molecule (D) viscosity at 20 ° C. is 20 Pa · s or more 5-50 mass% of liquid hydrocarbon oil
Lip cosmetics characterized by containing lipase.   The lip cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of the component (B) to the component (C) is 1: 4 to 1:70. The lip cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (C) is diglyceryl triisostearate and / or diisostearyl malate. The lip cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein the component (D) is one or more selected from heavy liquid isoparaffin, polybutene, and polyisobutene.