JP5254580B2 - Textile lining - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven fabric lining having a tearing strength that is light and air-permeable and has no practical problems.

  With the diversification of fashion materials in recent years, demand for thin fabrics for sports outerwear and women's use is increasing.

  For example, in the case of sports outerwear, many proposals have been made such as a thin high density fabric incorporating a fabric design ingenuity, a thin fabric using polyamide, and a thin fabric using polyester fiber with enhanced strength (Patent Documents 1 to 3). reference). However, these fabrics are far from the viewpoint of the fabric lining, and are not mentioned in terms of the required properties of the lining, such as softness and sliding.

  Further, from the viewpoint of the fabric lining, a highly breathable woven fabric in which a pattern and a general ternary structure are alternately arranged in the weft direction for sleeve lining has been proposed (see Patent Document 4). The invention is not lightweight, but is a sleeve lining with high air permeability and cannot be used as the back of the trunk because the border pattern of the weft is clear. Not mentioned.

In addition, as for the woven fabric structure, a model structure is used, and high air permeability and anti-penetration properties have been proposed (Patent Document 5). In the present invention, the purpose is achieved by using a multi-layer structure, but the purpose is not a lining but a shirt / blouse, and because of the thickness of the fabric, it is unsuitable for the lining and touches the tear strength. It is not done.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2005-240265 JP-A-2005-48298 JP 2006-52505 A JP-A-2005-139570 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2006-225806

  An object of the present invention is to provide a lining suitable for a cool surface material for summer, and to provide a lining fabric having a good feeling of wearing, which has both lightness, air flow rate, and tearing strength that has no practical problem.

As a result of intensive studies, it has been found that the present invention can be achieved by the following configuration.
(1) Organization is a flat organization, total fineness _{D A} of the warp yarn is 10～55Dtex, a total fineness _{D B} is 20~70dtex the weft yarn, twist coefficient K of Yo co yarns of the flat tissue Is made by refining and dyeing a woven fabric having a thickness of 5000 to 13000, a cover factor of 1300 to 2000, a tear strength of 5 N or more, a basis weight of 30 to 65 g / m ² , JIS L 1096 (Method A ( fragile type A fabric lining for a trunk back having an air flow rate measured by the method)) of ³⁰ to 200 cm ³ / cm ² · s .

However, cover factor = A × D _A ^1/2 + B × D _B ^1/2 , twist coefficient K = T × (D ^1/2 )
A: Warp density of woven fabric (line / 2.54cm)
B: Weft density of woven fabric (line / 2.54cm)
D _A : Total fineness of warp yarn (dtex)
D _B : Total fineness of the weft yarn (dtex)
T: Number of yarn twists (times / m)
D: Total fineness of yarn (dtex)

  The lining fabric of the present invention is lightweight and excellent in breathability, and has both the good slip required for the lining and the strength that can withstand practical use, and is particularly suitable as a lining for summer clothing.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

Lining fabric of the present invention, the cover factor over the fabric 1300 to 2000, must become aeration amount measured by JIS L 1096 (A method (Frazier method)) of the 30~200cm ³ / cm ² · s , cover factor over the fabric 1300 to 2000, tear strength shall become the more than 5N. The tear strength is preferably 8N or more in consideration of the ease of tearing during actual wearing.

The basis weight is important for feeling a light weight. Usually, a lining using a flat structure which is generally commercially available has a basis weight of about 70 g / m ² . When the tissue becomes twill, satin, calze, etc., the basis weight becomes higher. In the present invention to match the agility of Outer, and 30~65g / ^{m 2} basis weight, more preferably 35~60g / ^{m 2,} more preferably it is important to 35~45g / ^{m 2.}

In order to obtain such a fabric lining with a basis weight, the selection of the total fineness of the fibers used is very important. Fibers used is preferably a 10~55dtex total fineness _{D A} of the warp yarn, among others 20~40dtex is more preferable. Is preferably the total fineness _{D B} of the weft yarn is 20～70Dtex, among others 30~60dtex is more preferable. Further, the relationship between the total fineness of the warp yarn and the weft yarn preferably satisfies the following formula in order to improve the tearing strength.

_{D B} / D A = 1.0~1.8
Although the single yarn fineness of the fiber to be used is not particularly limited, it is preferably 0.5 to 3.0 dtex because a lining fabric having a moderately soft texture can be easily obtained. However, considering the tear strength of the fabric, the single yarn fineness is more preferably 1 dtex or more and 3 dtex or less. Further, it is preferable that the single yarn fineness d _A of the warp and the single yarn fineness d _B of the weft satisfy the following formula, in order to improve the tearing strength in the lateral direction, which is particularly problematic.

d _B / d _A = 0.5 to 1.8
The fiber form is preferably not a spun yarn but preferably a filament yarn that is slippery, and polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, regenerated fiber such as rayon, semisynthetic fiber such as acetate, etc. can be used. Polyester fibers and polyamide fibers having high tensile strength are preferably used. Of these, polyester fibers are most preferred because they have low form water absorption and are excellent in form stability, are less likely to wrinkle, and are inexpensive.

  The polyester yarn fiber may be any of polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate, or may be a composite yarn with a modified polyester that is heterogeneous or copolymerized. It is preferable that the composite form has a bicomponent structure bonded in a side-by-side form because it can impart stretchability to the fabric, but can be selected according to various purposes. The polyester polymer may contain the known matting agent, pigment, hygroscopic agent, antistatic agent, conductive agent and the like. As the cross-sectional shape of the yarn, it is preferable from the viewpoint of production cost that a round cross-section is used. However, when water absorption is imparted to the lining, in addition to triangular, dharma-type, multi-leaf cross-section, X-type, Y-type, star-type, etc. The cross-sectional form can be adopted. When adopting these irregular cross-sections, it is preferable to use a fiber that is subjected to additional twisting because a capillary phenomenon can be expressed, and when improving the performance, the known water-absorbing agent is applied to the lining by post-processing. It is preferable.

In order to obtain a woven fabric having no problem in practical use while suppressing the basis weight lightly, it is important to set the tear strength to 5 N or more. In general, when using fibers with a fine total fineness, the tearing strength is extremely deteriorated. However, in the present invention, the high-strength product is improved by expanding the degree of freedom of the tissue because it is not a high-density design like a sports outer. Can maintain tear strength. Specifically it is important to 1300 to 2000 to cover factor over the fabric. If the cover factor is less than 1300, there is a large gap between the yarns, which is not preferred because it tends to cause misalignment in the dyeing process and misalignment in the product. On the other hand, when the cover factor exceeds 2000, the degree of freedom of the fabric structure is lowered, so that the tearing strength of the fabric is lowered or the texture becomes hard and it is difficult to follow the silhouette of the outer material. More preferably the cover factor over the fabric lining than the reason is 1500-2000.

It is important that the air permeability of the lining fabric of the present invention measured by JIS L 1096 (Method A (Fragile method)) is 30 to 200 cm ³ / cm ² · s. When the air flow rate is less than 30 cm ³ / cm ² · s, there is no great difference from a commonly used fabric lining having a high basis weight, the ventilation is poor, and the heat released from the body is unpleasant due to being trapped inside the clothes. On the other hand, when the air flow rate exceeds 200 cm ³ / cm ² · s, the feeling of see-through increases, and the role of the backing for preventing see-through cannot be sufficiently fulfilled. More preferably 30~150cm ³ / ^cm 2 · s, more preferably from 60~140cm ³ / cm ² · s.

  In order to obtain such good air permeability and to maintain the tearing strength, it is effective to open the warp and weft yarns constituting the woven fabric. It is preferable to use an open woven structure or to suppress the swelling of the yarn by using a twisted yarn.

When performing additionally twisted to fibers, twist coefficient K of Yo co yarns of the fabric is preferably set to 5000 to 13,000.

  When the twisting coefficient is low, the fiber convergence is lowered, and as a result, the air permeability may be lowered. On the other hand, if it becomes high, it becomes a strong twisted fabric such as decyne, and the slipping characteristics are deteriorated, and the weaving cost tends to increase. By applying the number of twists of the present invention to the fiber and making it a textile lining, the elongation property of the fiber due to the twisting torque is expressed, so that the tensile elongation product of the fiber is the same, the tensile elongation product becomes high, resulting in tearing Can maintain strength.

  In the case of using a polyester yarn, it is preferable to carry out an alkali weight reduction process at the time of dyeing to reduce the total fineness of the yarn because air permeability is improved, the basis weight is lightened, and the texture is softened. The weight loss rate is preferably 3 to 10% from the viewpoint of physical properties and strength, and is preferably set to 5 to 8% from the viewpoint of strength and texture.

Fabric of the organization is flat organization is preferable. In flat structures, it is always necessary to twist the fibers.

The lining fabric of the present invention can be used on the trunk back of a jacket for spring and summer , and the knee back of slacks, which demands comfort.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Moreover, the quality evaluation in an Example was implemented with the following method about the dyeing process goods.
<Weaving organization>
JIS L 1096 8.1 was followed.
<Thread density>
According to JIS L 1096 8.6.
<Total fineness>
JIS L 1096 8.8.1 was followed.
<Number of twists>
According to JIS L 1096 8.8.2.
<Cover factor>
The calculation was performed with the cover factor = A · D _A ^1/2 + B · D _B ^1/2 . However, variables represented by letters take the following numerical values.

A: Warp density of woven fabric (line / 2.54cm)
B: Weft density of woven fabric (line / 2.54cm)
D _A : Total fineness of warp yarn (dtex)
D _B : Total fineness of the weft yarn (dtex)
<Unit weight>
According to JIS L 1096 8.4.
<Air flow rate>
JIS L 1096 8.27.1 A method (Fragile type method) was followed.
<Tearing strength>
JIS L 1096 8.15.5 D method (Pendulum method) was followed.
<Soft texture>
The fabric was lightly mocked with one hand, and the softness was evaluated in four stages: good (◎), slightly good (◯), average (△), and bad (×).
<Eye misalignment>
The fabric was pinched with the thumb and forefinger of both hands, and the presence or absence of surface change was evaluated by applying strong force locally.
<Good sliding>
The woven fabric was placed flat, and the palm was slid in the vertical direction of the woven fabric, and the sliding property was evaluated in four grades: good (◎), slightly good (◯), average (△), and bad (×).

[Example 1]
Using 33 dtex / 12 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn, 56 dtex / 24 filament for warp yarn, polyester multifilament with a twist of 1000 times / m, warp density 132 / 2.54 cm, weft density 104 / A 2.54 cm plain fabric was woven in a water jet loom. The raw machine was scoured and set according to a conventional method, followed by dyeing and finishing set to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 144 / 2.54 cm, a horizontal density of 97 / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 43 g / m ² .

  Table 1 shows the results of measuring the air permeability and tear strength of this fabric. In addition, the tear strength was entered in the smaller value among the measured values of vertical and horizontal. Moreover, the softness of the texture, misalignment, and slipperiness were evaluated by handling. About evaluation, it implemented similarly to Example 1 in the Example and comparative example of the following description.

  Later, when this fabric was sewn on a women's dress and worn in summer, the abdomen was light and comfortable, and the abdomen, which was close to the body and easily trapped heat, had little stuffiness and was comfortable.

[ Reference Example 2]

Using 33 dtex / 12 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn and 56 dtex / 36 filament false twisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn, warp density 180 / 2.54 cm, weft density 110 / 2.54 cm The woven fabric was woven in a water jet loom. After scouring and setting the raw machine according to a conventional method, 5% alkali weight loss, dyeing, and finishing set are performed, and a fabric having a vertical density of 193 pieces / 2.54 cm, a horizontal density of 117 pieces / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 52 g / m ² is obtained. Obtained.

  Table 1 shows the results of evaluation similar to Example 1 for this fabric.

  In addition, when this fabric was sewn on the back of the jacket of a gentleman's jacket and worn in the summer, it was light and comfortable with almost no feeling of the weight of the jacket. .

[Example 3]
Non-twisted polyester multifilaments of 22 dtex / 24 filaments are used for the warp yarn, and polyester multifilaments obtained by twisting 1300 times / m on the 33 dtex / 24 filaments are used for the warp yarn. A regular / 2.54 cm plain fabric was woven in a water jet loom. The raw machine was scoured and set according to a conventional method, followed by dyeing and finishing, to obtain a woven fabric having a vertical density of 168 pieces / 2.54 cm, a horizontal density of 117 pieces / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 37 g / m ² .

  Table 1 shows the results of evaluation similar to Example 1 for this fabric.

  In addition, when this fabric was sewn on a dress for women and worn in the summer, the abdomen was light and comfortable, and the abdomen, which was close to the body and easily trapped heat, had little stuffiness and was comfortable.

[ Reference Example 4]
Non-twisted polyester multifilament with 22 dtex / 24 filaments for warp yarn, polyester multifilament with 1300 times / m twist on 33 dtex / 24 filament for warp yarn, warp density 131 / 2.54 cm, weft density 115 This / 2.54 cm imitation fabric was woven in a water jet loom. The raw machine was subjected to a scouring set according to a conventional method, followed by dyeing and finishing set to obtain a woven fabric having a vertical density of 168 pieces / 2.54 cm, a horizontal density of 117 pieces / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 52 g / m ² .

  Table 1 shows the results of evaluation similar to Example 1 for this fabric.

  In addition, when this fabric was sewn on a dress for women and worn in the summer, the abdomen was very light and comfortable, and the abdomen, which was close to the body and easily trapped heat, had little stuffiness.

[Example 5]
Using 33 dtex / 12 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn, polyester multifilament with 56 dtex / 24 filament twisted 450 times / m, warp density 132 strands / 2.54 cm, weft density 94 A regular / 2.54 cm plain fabric was woven in a water jet loom. The raw machine was scoured and set according to a conventional method, followed by dyeing and finishing set to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 144 / 2.54 cm, a horizontal density of 97 / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 39 g / m ² .

  Table 1 shows the results of evaluation similar to Example 1 for this fabric.

  In addition, when this fabric was sewn on a dress for women and worn in the summer, the abdomen was light and comfortable, and the abdomen, which was close to the body and easily trapped heat, had little stuffiness and was comfortable.

[Comparative Example 1]
Using 33 dtex / 12 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn and 56 dtex / 36 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn, with a warp density of 180 / 2.54 cm and a warp density of 112 / 2.54 cm Patterned woven fabric was woven in a water jet loom. The raw machine is scoured and set according to the usual method, then 8% alkali weight loss, dyeing and finishing set are performed, and the woven fabric has a vertical density of 193 / 2.54 cm, a horizontal density of 117 / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 68 g / m ² . Got.

  Table 1 shows the results of evaluation similar to Example 1 for this fabric.

  In addition, the same gentleman's jacket as in Example 2 was created, the trunk lining was sewn in place of this fabric, and it was worn in the summer. there were.

[Comparative Example 2]
Using 33 dtex / 12 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn and 56 dtex / 24 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn, warp density 137 / 2.54 cm, width 92 / 2.54 cm A plain fabric was woven in a water jet loom. The raw machine was subjected to a scouring set according to a conventional method, followed by dyeing and finishing set to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 144 pieces / 2.54 cm, a horizontal density of 97 pieces / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 42 g / m ² .

  Table 1 shows the results of evaluation similar to Example 1 for this fabric.

  Moreover, the same ladies' dress as Example 1 was created, and only the lining was sewn in place of this fabric, and was worn in the summer. The abdomen was overheated and uncomfortable, and the feeling of wearing was somewhat heavy. .

[Comparative Example 3]
Using 33 dtex / 12 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn and 22 dtex / 24 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn, warp density 137 pieces / 2.54 cm, width density 131 pieces / 2.54 cm A plain fabric was woven in a water jet loom. The raw machine was scoured and set according to a conventional method, followed by dyeing and finishing, to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 144 / 2.54 cm, a warp density of 140 / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 41 g / m ² .

  Table 1 shows the results of evaluation similar to Example 1 for this fabric.

  Moreover, when the same ladies' dress as Example 1 was created, only the lining was sewn in place of this fabric, and was worn in the summer, the abdomen was warm and stuffy and uncomfortable.

[Comparative Example 4]
Using 56 dtex / 18 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn and 84 dtex / 36 filament untwisted polyester multifilament for warp yarn, warp density 107 / 2.54 cm, weft density 80 / 2.54 cm A plain fabric was woven in a water jet loom. The raw machine was scoured and set according to a conventional method, followed by dyeing and finishing, to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 110 / 2.54 cm, a horizontal density of 82 / 2.54 cm, and a basis weight of 72 g / m ² .

  Table 1 shows the results of evaluation similar to Example 1 for this fabric.

  Moreover, the same dress for women as in Example 1 was prepared, and only the lining was sewn in place of this fabric, and was worn in the summer.

Claims (1)

And the organization is flat organization, total fineness _{D A} of the warp yarn is 10～55Dtex, a total fineness _{D B} is 20~70dtex the weft yarn, the twist coefficient K of Yo co yarns of the flat tissue 5000 A cover factor of 1300 to 2000, a tear strength of 5N or more, and a basis weight of 30 to 65 g / m ² , JIS L 1096 (Method A (Fragile Form Method)). A fabric lining for a trunk lining having an air flow rate of 30 to 200 cm ³ / cm ² · s as measured by .
However, cover factor = A × D _A ^1/2 + B × D _B ^1/2 , twist coefficient K = T × (D ^1/2 )
A: Warp density of woven fabric (line / 2.54cm)
B: Weft density of woven fabric (line / 2.54cm)
D _A : Total fineness of warp yarn (dtex)
D _B : Total fineness of the weft yarn (dtex)
T: Number of yarn twists (times / m)
D: Total fineness of yarn (dtex)