JP6151032B2 - 化粧セット - Google Patents
化粧セット Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP6151032B2 JP6151032B2 JP2013012739A JP2013012739A JP6151032B2 JP 6151032 B2 JP6151032 B2 JP 6151032B2 JP 2013012739 A JP2013012739 A JP 2013012739A JP 2013012739 A JP2013012739 A JP 2013012739A JP 6151032 B2 JP6151032 B2 JP 6151032B2
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- JP
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- Prior art keywords
- acid
- oil
- derivatives
- active ingredient
- skin
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 claims description 23
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- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 claims description 13
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- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N (±)-α-Tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
これは、シートマスクが汎用されるのは、皮膚上にある程度に時間化粧料を留めおき、皮膚の保湿性を大いに高めるためである。
この主目的の保湿性を得るために、グリセリン、ジグリセリン、ジプロピレングリコール、トリメチルグリシン等の保湿剤を配合するため、水性溶液状の化粧料が用いられる。
このような状況下、油溶性の有効成分は充分な配合割合を取ることができない。
勿論、主用途として保湿があるとしても、美白作用や抗炎症、シワ防止等々の化粧品、皮膚外用剤に求められる効果もシートマスクのような製剤の場合に皮膚上に被覆された状態で一定時間存在するので有効性の高い製剤が期待される。(特許文献1)
しかしながら、水溶性の薬剤の配合は問題ないが、油溶性の薬剤を配合することは乳化液体組成物とし、少量であれば可能であるが、必ずしも必要量配合することができないこと、皮膚への吸収の面で所期の目的を達しない場合があった。(特許文献2)
この方法で以下の期待以上の効果が得られた。
1.油性溶液に含まれる油溶性有効成分も、マスクを併用することによって皮膚に吸収される割合が高くなった。
2.油性溶液を塗布した後に、水溶性有効成分を含んだ水性溶液を含浸させたシート状マスクを適用しても、水溶性有効成分が皮膚に吸収される割合が減ずることがなかった。
具体的に以下に説明する。
まず、油溶性有効成分を含んだ油性溶液について説明する。
油溶性有効成分と油性原料(基剤)は、特に限定はないが、目的によってその種類や配合量を選択する。(なお、油溶性有効成分と油性原料(基剤)との区別はなく、その製剤の目的によっては、油溶性有効成分となったり、油性原料(基剤)となったりするが、少なくとも1つ以上の皮膚への吸収を目的とした成分を配合すること)
また、水を含む水溶性成分も油性溶液に配合することは可能であるが、配合量はその種類や他の配合原料の種類等、油性溶液の剤形によって異なるが50%以下が好ましく、20%以下がさらに好ましい。
剤形としては、液状、油性ゲル状、W/O型又はO/W/O型エマルジョン等の中から任意の剤形を選択する。
アボガド油、アーモンド油、ウイキョウ油、エゴマ油、オリーブ油、オレンジ油、オレンジラファー油、ゴマ油、カカオ脂、カミツレ油、カロット油、キューカンバー油、牛脂脂肪酸、ククイナッツ油、サフラワー油、シア脂、液状シア脂、大豆油、ツバキ油、トウモロコシ油、ナタネ油、パーシック油、ヒマシ油、綿実油、落花生油、タートル油、ミンク油、卵黄油、パーム油、パーム核油、モクロウ、ヤシ油、牛脂、豚脂、スクワレン、スクワラン、プリスタン又はこれら油脂類の水素添加物(硬化油等)等の各種油脂類。
ミツロウ、カルナバロウ、鯨ロウ、ラノリン、液状ラノリン、還元ラノリン、硬質ラノリン、カンデリラロウ、モンタンロウ、セラックロウ、ライスワックス等のロウ類。
流動パラフィン、ワセリン、パラフィン、オゾケライド、セレシン、マイクロクリスタンワックス等の鉱物油。
ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘン酸、オレイン酸、リノール酸、リノレン酸、ドコサヘキサエン酸、エイコサペンタエン酸、12-ヒドロキシステアリン酸、ウンデシレン酸、トール油、ラノリン脂肪酸等の脂肪酸類。
エタノール、イソピロパノール、ラウリルアルコール、セタノール、ステアリルアルコール、オレイルアルコール、ラノリンアルコール、コレステロール、フィトステロール、フェノキシエタノール、2-ヘキシルデカノール、イソステアリルアルコール、2-オクチルドデカノール等のアルコール類。
エチレングリコール、ジエチレングリコール、トリエチレングリコール、エチレングリコールモノエチルエーテル、エチレングリコールモノブチルエーテル、ジエチレングリコールモノメチルエーテル、ジエチレングリコールモノエチルエーテル、ポリエチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、ポリプロピレングリコール、1,3-ブチレングリコール、ペンチルグリコール、グリセリン、ペンタエリトリトール、トレイトール、アラビトール、キシリトール、ガラクチトール、ソルビトール、ラクチトール、マルチトール等の多価アルコール類。
ステアリン酸アルミニウム、ステアリン酸マグネシウム、ステアリン酸亜鉛、ステアリン酸カルシウム、パルミチン酸亜鉛等の金属セッケン類。
アラビアゴム、グアヤク脂、カラヤゴム、トラガントゴム、クインシード、寒天、カゼイン、乳糖、果糖、ショ糖又はそのエステル、トレハロース又はその誘導体、デキストリン、ゼラチン、ペクチン、デンプン、カラギーナン、カルボキシメチルキチン又はキトサン、エチレンオキサイド等のアルキレン(C2〜C4)オキサイドが付加されたヒドロキシアルキル(C2〜C4)キチン又はキトサン、低分子キチン又はキトサン、キトサン塩、硫酸化キチン又はキトサン、リン酸化キチン又はキトサン、アルギン酸又はその塩、ヒアルロン酸又はその塩、コンドロイチン硫酸又はその塩、ヘパリン、エチルセルロース、メチルセルロース、カルボキシメチルセルロース、カルボキシエチルセルロース、カルボキシエチルセルロースナトリウム、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、ニトロセルロース、結晶セルロース、ポリビニルアルコール、ポリビニルメチルエーテル、ポリビニルピロリドン、ポリビニルメタアクリレート、ポリアクリル酸塩、ポリエチレンオキサイドやポリプロピレンオキサイド等のポリアルキレンオキサイド又はその架橋重合物、カルボキシビニルポリマー、ポリエチレンイミン等のガム質、糖類又は水溶性高分子化合物。
アルキルカルボン酸塩、アルキルスルホン酸塩、アルキル硫酸エステル塩、アルキルリン酸エステル塩、アルキルアミン塩、アルキル四級アンモニウム塩、カルボン酸型両性界面活性剤、硫酸エステル型両性界面活性剤、スルホン酸型両性界面活性剤、リン酸エステル型両性界面活性剤、エーテル型非イオン界面活性剤、エーテルエステル型非イオン界面活性剤、エステル型非イオン界面活性剤、ブロックポリマー型非イオン界面活性剤、含窒素型非イオン界面活性剤等のアニオン界面活性剤、カチオン界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤、非イオン界面活性剤。
バリン、ロイシン、イソロイシン、トレオニン、メチオニン、フェニルアラニン、トリプトファン、リジン、グリシン、アラニン、アスパラギン、グルタミン、セリン、システイン、シスチン、チロシン、プロリン、ヒドロキシプロリン、アスパラギン酸、グルタミン酸、ヒドロキシリジン、アルギニン、オルニチン、ヒスチジン等や、それらの硫酸塩、リン酸塩、硝酸塩、クエン酸塩、或いはピロリドンカルボン酸のごときアミノ酸誘導体等の各種アミノ酸類。
海洋成分深層水、海水塩、海水乾燥物、死海又は大西洋又は太平洋の海より得た無機塩、海泥等の海洋産物。
酵母菌抽出エキス、細菌代謝物、細菌抽出エキス、カビ又は放線菌代謝物、カビ又は放線菌抽出エキス、納豆菌代謝物、納豆抽出エキス、米発酵エキス、米糠(赤糠、白糠)発酵エキス、生乳又は脱脂粉乳の乳酸発酵物、マメ科植物の乳酸菌発酵物、ココヤシ属植物の乳酸菌発酵物等の菌類由来物質。
グリコール酸、クエン酸、リンゴ酸、酒石酸、乳酸等のα-ヒドロキシ酸類。
無水ケイ酸、ケイ酸マグネシウム、タルク、カオリン、ベントナイト、マイカ、雲母チタン、オキシ塩化ビスマス、酸化ジルコニウム、酸化マグネシウム、酸化亜鉛、酸化チタン、炭酸カルシウム、炭酸マグネシウム、黄酸化鉄、ベンガラ、黒酸化鉄、グンジョウ、酸化クロム、水酸化クロム、カーボンブラック、カラミン等の無機顔料。
ベンゾフェノン誘導体、パラアミノ安息香酸誘導体、メトキシ桂皮酸誘導体、サリチル酸誘導体、ウロカニン酸誘導等の紫外線吸収または遮断剤。
イクタモール、インドメタシン、カオリン、サリチル酸、サリチル酸ナトリウム、サリチル酸メチル、アセチルサリチル酸、塩酸ジフェンヒドラミン、d-カンフル、dl-カンフル、ヒドロコルチゾン、グアイアズレン、カマズレン、マレイン酸クロルフェニラミン、グリチルリチン酸又はその塩、グリチルレチン酸又はその塩の抗炎症剤。
アクリノール、イオウ、グルコン酸カルシウム、グルコン酸クロルヘキシジン、トリクロサン等の抗菌・殺菌・消毒薬。
ジャコウ、シベット、カストリウム、アンバーグリス、イランイラン精油、イリス精油、ウイキョウ精油、オレンジ精油、カルダモン精油、シンナモン精油、ゲラニウム精油、コパイババルサム精油、シダーウッド精油、ジャスミン精油、バラ精油、ベルガモット精油、ラベンダー精油、レモングラス精油、レモン精油、ローズマリー精油等の動植物性香料、その他合成香料等。
感光素101号、感光素201号、感光素401号、感光素301号、ヒノキチオール、パントテン酸又はその誘導体、アラントイン、ペンタデカン酸グリセリド、尿素、グアニジン等の各種薬剤。
その他ホルモン類、金属イオン封鎖剤、pH調整剤等が挙げられる。
この中で、油溶性有効成分として好ましいものは、モノステアリン酸アスコルビル、モノパルミチン酸アスコルビル、ジパルミチン酸アスコルビル、トリイソパルミチン酸アスコルビル、テトライソパルミチン酸アスコルビル、テトラヘキシルデカン酸アスコルビル等のビタミンCの油溶性誘導体、トコフェロール、酢酸トコフェノール等のビタミンEとその誘導体、レチノール、レチナール、パルミチン酸レチノール等のビタミンAとその誘導体、セラミド或いはその類似物質、グリチルレチン酸ステアリル等が挙げられる。
水溶性有効成分は、製剤の目的に応じて選択するが、上記に列記した中で水溶性で有効性のある物質であれば特に限定はないが、アスコルビン酸およびその誘導体、グリチルリチン酸塩、加水分解コンキオリン、加水分解コラーゲンが好ましい。
そのほかにも水溶性成分を必要により配合するがアクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体を配合すると効果が高まることを発明者は見出した。
アクリル酸・メタクリル酸共重合体とは、アクリル酸モノマーから誘導される構成単位と、メタクリル酸アルキルモノマーから誘導される構成単位の共重合体であり、その構成比率は、好ましくは1:99〜99:1であり、メタクリル酸アルキルモノマーのアルキルの炭素数は10〜30が好ましい。
これらアクリル酸・メタクリル酸共重合体には以下のような市販品があり、これを1以上選択して利用する。
ペミュレンTR−1、ペミュレンTR−2、カルボポールR1342、カルボポールR1382等
このアクリル酸・メタクリル酸共重合体の配合量は製剤の目的やアクリル酸・メタクリル酸共重合体の種類、他の配合物の種類や量、製剤のpHによって大きく変わるが、水性溶液の0.01〜10重量%であり、より好ましくは0.05〜5重量%であり、更に好ましくは0.1〜1重量%である。
このほか必要に応じて原料を選択して水性溶液を作成する。
水性溶液の剤形としては、液状、油性ゲル状、O/W型又はW/O/W型エマルジョン等の中から任意の剤形を選択する。
なお、油性原料も勿論配合可能であるが、配合量はその種類や他の配合原料の種類等、水性溶液の剤形によって異なるが10%以下が好ましく、3%以下がさらに好ましい。
シートには綿,絹,羊毛,ポリエステル,レーヨン,ポリオレフィン,ポリエチレンテレフタレート等の天然繊維、合成繊維を必要に応じて単独若しくは混合して用いた吸水性の不織布、織布、紙等から選択されたシート材を用いることができる。
油性溶液−1
テトラ2−へキシルデカン酸アスコルビル 3.0
流動パラフィン 30.0
ミリスチン酸イソプロピル 33.0
オリーブ油 33.9
BHT 0.1
水性溶液−1
アスコルビン酸2−グルコシド 2.0
精製水 72.5
グリセリン 10.0
アクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体(ペミュレンTR-2) 0.25
パラオキシ安息香酸メチル 0.25
これを5%水酸化カリウム水溶液で、pH6.7に調整した。
シート−1
(日清紡社製、商品名2ATEP2070)
採取後−80℃で保存したユカタンミニブタ皮膚(5ヶ月齢のメス;日本チャールズリバー)を室温で解凍した豚皮(2cm×2cm)に油性溶液−1 4mgを塗布し、その上に水性溶液−1 248mgを含ませたシート−1を置く。
この豚皮をリン酸等張液を含ませたろ紙の上に置き、32℃で1時間放置した。
対照として、豚皮(2cm×2cm)に油性溶液−1 4mgを塗布し、32℃で1時間放置した。
その後、シートを取り除き(対照はそのまま)、豚皮表面をキムワイプで拭き取り、テープストピッリングを3回行う。その後、豚皮表面を60℃で45秒加熱し、表皮(1.5cm×1.5cm)をピンセットで採取した。(表皮の重さを計った)
採取した表皮を10mLの2-プロパノールとともに、19時間振とう抽出(120rpm)を行った。HPLCの移動相に入れて、4時間振とう抽出(120rpm)を行う。この抽出液のテトラ2−へキシルデカン酸アスコルビルを下記の条件のHPLCで測定した。
・HPLC測定条件
カラム:Develosil ODS−P−5 4.6mm×150mmL
移動相:メタノール
機器設定条件: 検出波長 220nm、流量 1mL/min、カラム温度 40℃
表皮の重さ1g当たりのテトラ2−へキシルデカン酸アスコルビルの重さを算出し、対照を1としたとき実施例の結果を図1に示した。
採取後−80℃で保存したユカタンミニブタ皮膚(5ヶ月齢のメス;日本チャールズリバー)を室温で解凍した豚皮(2cm×2cm)に油性溶液−1 4mgを塗布し、その上に水性溶液−1 248mgを含ませたシート−1を置く。
この豚皮をリン酸等張液を含ませたろ紙の上に置き、32℃で1時間放置した。
対照として、豚皮(2cm×2cm)に直接水性溶液−1 248mgを含ませたシート−1を置き、32℃で1時間放置した。
その後、シートを取り除き、豚皮表面をキムワイプで拭き取り、テープストピッリングを3回行う。その後、豚皮表面を60℃で45秒加熱し、表皮(1.5cm×1.5cm)をピンセットで採取した。(表皮の重さを計った)
採取した表皮を5mLのHPLCの移動相に入れて、4時間振とう抽出(120rpm)を行う。この抽出液のアスコルビン酸2−グルコシドを下記の条件のHPLCで測定した。
・HPLC測定条件
カラム:Mightysil RP−18GP 4.6mm×250mmL(5μm)
移動相:テトラブチルアンモニウム‐リン酸二水素カリウムの水溶液/アセトニトリル(9:1)の混液
機器設定条件:流速 0.8mL/min、検出波長 260nm、カラム温度 40℃
表皮の重さ1g当たりのアスコルビン酸2−グルコシの重さを算出し、対照を1としたとき実施例の結果を図2に示した。
採取後−80℃で保存したユカタンミニブタ皮膚(5ヶ月齢のメス;日本チャールズリバー)を室温で解凍した豚皮(2cm×2cm)に油性溶液−1 4mgを塗布し、その上に水性溶液−1 248mgを含ませたシート−1を置く。
水性溶液−1の変わりに比較水性溶液−1を用い、他は上記と同一な操作を行ったものを比較として試験した
その後、シートを取り除き、豚皮表面をキムワイプで拭き取り、テープストピッリングを3回行う。その後、豚皮表面を60℃で45秒加熱し、表皮(1.5cm×1.5cm)をピンセットで採取した。(表皮の重さを計った)
採取した表皮を5mLのHPLCの移動相に入れて、4時間振とう抽出(120rpm)を行う。この抽出液のアスコルビン酸2−グルコシドを確認試験−2に記載した方法で測定した。
表皮の重さ1g当たりのアスコルビン酸2−グルコシドの重さを図3に示した。
なお、比較水性溶液−1は水性溶液−1より、アクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体を同量の精製水に置き換え、5%水酸化カリウム水溶液で、pH6.7に調整したものである。
このような製剤、塗布方法に水性溶液−1に配合されたアクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体の影響をみるため確認試験−3をおこなったところ、アクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体の配合の有無で優位な差があった。
テトラ2−へキシルデカン酸アスコルビル 3.0
ビサボロール 0.5
スクワラン 30.0
ミツロウ 1.0
酢酸トコフェロール 1.0
パルミチン酸レチノール 1.0
トリエチルヘキサン酸エリスリチル 10.0
パルミチン酸エチルヘキシル 33.9
イソノナン酸イソノニル 19.5
ビタミンE 0.1
水性溶液−2
アスコルビン酸2−グルコシド 2.0
グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム 0.5
加水分解コラーゲン 0.2
精製水 71.5
グリセリン 10.0
1,3ブチレングリコール 5.0
アクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体(ペミュレンTR-1) 0.5
パラオキシ安息香酸メチル 0.3
これを5%水酸化カリウム水溶液で、pH6.5に調整した。
シート−1
(日清紡社製、商品名2ATEP2070)
セラミド2 0.1
糖セラミド(馬由来) 2.0
ミツロウ 3.0
スクワラン 15.0
水添ポリオレフィン(C6−12) 10.0
スペアミント油 0.5
酢酸トコフェロール 1.0
パルミチン酸レチノール 1.0
トリ2ーエチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 10.0
イソノナン酸イソノニル 33.9
トリエチルヘキサン酸エリスリチル 10.0
セバシン酸ジイソプロピル 3.4
ビタミンE 0.1
水性溶液−3
アスコルビン酸2−グルコシド 2.0
グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム 0.5
加水分解コラーゲン 1.0
加水分解コンキオリン 1.0
ヒアルロン酸Na 0.5
精製水 72.6
ソルビトール 5.0
ジプロピレングリコール 5.0
アクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体(ペミュレンTR-2) 0.1
パラオキシ安息香酸メチル 0.3
これを5%水酸化カリウム水溶液で、pH6.5に調整した。
シート−1
(日清紡社製、商品名2ATEP2070)
油性溶液−2を塗布した後に、水性溶液−2を含浸させたシート−2を顔面に20分間被覆した結果、非常に美白効果と肌荒れ改善の効果が高かった。
油性溶液−3を塗布した後に、水性溶液−3を含浸させたシート−3を顔面に30分間被覆した結果、非常に肌荒れ改善の効果が高く、肌のハリが改善した。
勿論、肌のしっとり感の改善は大きかった。
Claims (3)
- 油溶性有効成分を含んだ油性溶液を塗布した後に水溶性有効成分とアクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体を配合した水性溶液を含浸させたシート状マスクを使用する化粧方法。
- 油溶性有効成分が、ビタミンAおよびその誘導体、ビタミンEおよびその誘導体、ビタミンCの油溶性誘導体、セラミド或いはその類似物質から選択される1種以上である請求項1の化粧方法。
- 水溶性有効成分が、アスコルビン酸およびその誘導体、グリチルリチン酸塩、加水分解コンキオリン、加水分解コラーゲンから選択される1種以上である請求項1又は請求項2の化粧方法。
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| JP2008150317A (ja) * | 2006-12-18 | 2008-07-03 | Kao Corp | 化粧水シート |
| JP5306099B2 (ja) * | 2009-07-30 | 2013-10-02 | 株式会社マンダム | プレパック用組成物およびパック方法、並びにパック用化粧料セット |
| JP2011178693A (ja) * | 2010-02-26 | 2011-09-15 | Kose Corp | 美容方法 |
| JP5505933B2 (ja) * | 2010-07-30 | 2014-05-28 | クラシエホームプロダクツ株式会社 | 二剤式シート状化粧料及びその使用方法 |
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