JP6967767B2 - Makeup breakage evaluation method and makeup breakage evaluation model - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a novel method for evaluating makeup loss and a model for evaluating makeup loss that is suitably used for the method.

From the past, many studies have been conducted on the susceptibility of makeup to disintegration and the observation of the condition of the makeup film. For example, Chie Goda et al., "Establishment of a microscopic analysis method for cosmetic coatings for the purpose of evaluating the functionality of makeup products", Journal of the Japan Cosmetic Engineers Association, 2012, 46 (4), 271-286 (Non-Patent Documents). In 1), cosmetics are applied to human skin, the formed cosmetic film (decorative coating film) is transferred using a transfer agent such as epoxy resin, and the surface of the cosmetic film and makeup are made using a scanning electron microscope. A method has been proposed in which the change over time of the cosmetic film can be observed by observing the cross section of the film.

In addition, regarding the makeup collapse, a method has been proposed in which the sebum-induced makeup collapse can be reproduced under conditions close to those of human skin by evaluating the susceptibility of the cosmetic to collapse using a sebum-permeable support (filter paper). For example, in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 11-13630 (Patent Document 1), a cosmetic is applied to the front surface of an oil-and-fat permeation support (filter paper), an oily component (artificial sebum) is infiltrated from the back surface, and then the makeup is broken. A method of evaluating makeup loss similar to that of skin has been proposed by measuring the phenomenon "shininess" as a gloss value.

Sebum derived from sebaceous glands and epidermal cells is secreted on the surface of human skin. Therefore, in evaluating the susceptibility of makeup to disintegration, it is important to evaluate makeup disintegration assuming the secretion of oily components such as sebum from the inside of the skin as proposed in Patent Document 1. However, the method proposed in Patent Document 1 is an evaluation using a support having a structure and a shape different from that of human skin, and it cannot be said that the cosmetic discoloration caused by human skin can be accurately evaluated. ..

Further, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2013-117503 (Patent Document 2) describes water or water colored by dissolving a dye under an optical microscope on skin, hair, or a substrate coated with cosmetics or cosmetic raw materials. It is characterized in that the sustainability, stability, and adsorption behavior of cosmetics or cosmetic raw materials are evaluated by contacting oil (skin oil) and observing the behavior of cosmetics or cosmetic raw materials. A method for evaluating cosmetics or raw materials for cosmetics is disclosed. Such a method disclosed in Patent Document 2 is a method of attempting to evaluate the collapse of makeup by dropping sebum onto a film coated with cosmetics, but since sebum is dropped from the surface side of the cosmetic film, it is actually This is a test in a state different from the sebum secretion mechanism of the skin.

There have been many studies on cosmetic powders to be blended in cosmetics. In particular, cosmetics having a double cosmetic film structure on the part that adheres to the skin (back surface) and the part that contacts the outside world (front surface) have been developed (for example, Kaori Matsumoto et al. "Development of a powder foundation that does not easily come off even when touched", Fragrance Journal, 2014, 42 (4), 17-21 (Non-Patent Document 2)), and cosmetics corresponding to these are described in Patent Document 2. It is considered that accurate evaluation of makeup loss cannot be performed by the method of dropping skin oil on the makeup film as disclosed.

For this reason, it is common to actually evaluate cosmetic loss on human skin (for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2016-124807 (Patent Document 3) and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2014-193824 (Patent Document 3). Document 4), Akiko Sumiyoshi et al., "Development of a new plate-like powder with excellent cosmetic retention effect", Journal of the Japan Cosmetic Engineers Association, 2011, 45 (4), 315-322 (Non-Patent Document 3), Rie Otsuki Et al., "Evaluation Method for Makeup Discoloration Using Spectral Face Image-Reflective Characteristics of Shine and Its Evaluation-", Journal of the Japanese Society of Color Sciences, 2013, 37 (3), 200-201 (Non-Patent Document 4), etc. ).

However, in human skin, the way the makeup breaks down changes due to the difference in the texture structure seen on the skin surface (see, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2004-121696 (Patent Document 5)). It was difficult to evaluate under certain conditions.

Further, for example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2013-145191 (Patent Document 6) is not an invention relating to the evaluation of cosmetic breakage, but a cosmetic film is applied to a transparent skin model (transparent skin replica) to form a cosmetic film. A method of observing the state and adhesiveness of a decorative film by observing the front surface and the back surface using ring illumination or the like has been proposed.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 11-13630 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2013-117503 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2016-124807 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2014-193824 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2004-121696 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2013-145191

Chie Goda et al. "Establishment of Microscopic Analysis Method for Cosmetic Coatings for Functional Evaluation of Makeup Products", Journal of Japan Cosmetic Engineers, 2012, 46 (4), 271-286 Kaori Matsumoto et al., "Development of a powder foundation that does not easily come off even when touched using a new theanine-treated powder," Fragrance Journal, 2014, 42 (4), 17-21. Akiko Sumiyoshi et al., "Development of New Plate-Shaped Powder with Excellent Makeup Retaining Effect", Journal of Japan Cosmetic Engineers, 2011, 45 (4), 315-322 Rie Otsuki et al., "Evaluation Method for Makeup Discoloration Using Spectral Face Image-Reflective Characteristics of Tekari and Its Evaluation-", Journal of the Japanese Society of Color Sciences, 2013, 37 (3), 200-201

In the above-mentioned patent documents and non-patent documents, in vitro evaluation requires non-human evaluation because the skin condition differs between subjects and the test time is long and the burden on the subject increases. In the in vitro evaluation, it was not possible to make a stable evaluation of makeup loss under conditions close to those of human skin.

The present invention has been made to solve the above problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide a method capable of performing stable in vitro makeup loss evaluation under conditions close to human skin. It is to be.

The method for evaluating makeup breakage of the present invention includes a step of applying artificial sebum to artificial skin, a step of applying cosmetics on the artificial sebum, and a step of observing the state of the cosmetic film formed by the cosmetics. It is characterized by including.

The method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention further includes a step of freezing the artificial skin coated with the artificial sebum between the step of applying the artificial sebum to the artificial skin and the step of applying the cosmetic on the artificial sebum. Is preferable.

In the method for evaluating makeup breakage of the present invention, artificial sebum and cosmetics are applied between a step of applying cosmetics on artificial sebum and a step of observing the state of a cosmetic film formed by the cosmetics. It is preferable to further include the step of allowing the skin to stand in a temperature atmosphere of 30 to 40 ° C. for 0.5 to 3 hours.

In the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, it is preferable that the amount of the artificial sebum applied is ^{0.1 to 10 μL per 1 cm 2 area of the artificial skin.}

In the method for evaluating makeup breakage of the present invention, the amount of the cosmetic applied is 1 to ¹⁰ μL per 1 cm 2 area of the artificial skin when the cosmetic is a liquid, and when the cosmetic is a powder. It is preferably 0.1 to 1 mg per 1 cm ^{2 area of artificial skin.}

In the step of observing the state of the makeup film in the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, the ^{amount of makeup adhered to a 1 cm 2} area of artificial skin is observed, and the twist of the makeup loss is calculated as a numerical value. It is preferable to include.

The present invention also provides a makeup loss evaluation model including artificial skin and artificial sebum applied on the artificial skin.

The model for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention is preferably in a frozen state.
In the model for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, it is preferable that the amount of the artificial sebum applied is ^{0.1 to 10 μL per 1 cm 2 area of the artificial skin.}

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a method capable of performing a stable in vitro evaluation of makeup loss under conditions close to human skin, and a model for evaluating makeup loss that can be suitably used therefor.

<Evaluation method for makeup loss>
The method for evaluating makeup breakage of the present invention is (1) a step of applying artificial sebum to artificial skin (artificial sebum application step) and (2) a step of applying cosmetics on the artificial sebum (cosmetic application step). And (3) a step of observing the state of the cosmetic film formed by the cosmetic (cosmetic film observation step). According to the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, by applying artificial sebum to artificial skin and then applying cosmetics, it is possible to capture changes in makeup loss due to changes in the amount of sebum, and in vitro. Although it is a method for evaluating makeup loss in the above, it is possible to perform stable evaluation of makeup loss under conditions close to those of human skin.

(1) Artificial sebum application step In the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, first, artificial sebum is applied to artificial skin. As the artificial skin used in the present invention, a conventionally known artificial skin replica can be used without particular limitation. For example, replicas can be collected by applying a commercially available replica agent to the cheeks of ordinary females. In the present invention, it is preferable to use a re-transferred artificial skin replica. For example, an artificial skin replica can be created by applying a replica agent to a replica and removing air bubbles using an deaeration device.

When a replica agent is used, it is preferable that the adhesiveness of the cosmetic is similar to that of the skin and has mechanical strength that it does not break even if a cosmetic film is mechanically formed. For example, urethane resin, silicone resin, etc. are the main components. It is preferable to use a transparent replica agent because the transparent and opaque replica agent can be preferably used and the change in the state of the decorative coating film due to the makeup breakage can be observed from the front surface and the back surface.

The shape, size, and thickness of the artificial skin used in the present invention are not particularly limited, and the shape may be circular, quadrangular, triangular, or the like, but from the viewpoint of good handleability. It has a circular shape and is preferably within the range of 2 to 5 cm in diameter. When the artificial skin has a shape other than the above-mentioned circular shape, it is preferable that the artificial skin has a size having the same area as the circular shape. The thickness of the artificial skin is preferably 10 mm or less.

In the present invention, as the artificial sebum to be applied to the artificial skin, a conventionally known appropriate commercially available product can be used without particular limitation.

In the artificial sebum application step of the present invention, the amount of artificial sebum to be applied to the artificial skin is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.1 to 10 μL per ^{1 cm 2 area of the artificial skin.}

It is preferable that the method for evaluating makeup breakage of the present invention further includes a step (freezing step) of freezing the artificial skin coated with artificial sebum between the above-mentioned artificial sebum application step and the cosmetic application step described later. .. By further including the freezing step in this way, there is an advantage that the sebum and the cosmetic are not mixed immediately after the application, as compared with the case where the cosmetic application step is directly performed from the artificial sebum application step without going through the freezing step. There is.

In the freezing step, it is preferable to freeze the artificial skin coated with the artificial sebum at a temperature of −80 to −20 ° C.

(2) Cosmetic application step In the cosmetic application step, cosmetics are applied onto the artificial sebum of the artificial skin (preferably frozen) to which the artificial sebum is applied. Here, the cosmetics to be evaluated for makeup breakage in the present invention are not particularly limited, and any cosmetics can be applied.

In the cosmetic application step of the present invention, the amount of cosmetic applied on the artificial sebum is not particularly limited, but for example, when the cosmetic is a liquid, it should be 1 to ¹⁰ μL per 1 cm 2 area of the artificial skin. Is preferable.

Further, in the cosmetic application step of the present invention, for example, when the cosmetic is a powder, it is preferably 0.1 to ^{1 mg per 1 cm 2 area of the artificial skin.}

In the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, after the above-mentioned cosmetic application step, the makeup film observation step is performed after allowing the makeup to stand for a time (usually about 5 to 6 hours) until the makeup loss occurs naturally. However, it is said that the time required for evaluation can be shortened and the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention can be efficiently performed, and evaluation under certain conditions and observation of makeup loss due to sebum over time can be performed. Since it has an advantage, it may further include a step of artificially promoting makeup disintegration (makeup disintegration promoting step).

When the makeup disintegration promoting step is performed, it is preferable that the makeup disintegration promoting step is a step in which the artificial skin coated with artificial sebum and cosmetics is allowed to stand in a temperature atmosphere of 30 to 40 ° C. for 0.5 to 3 hours. The makeup disintegration promoting step can be performed, for example, by using a commercially available incubator.

(3) Cosmetic film observation step In the cosmetic film observation step, the state of the cosmetic film formed by applying cosmetics on artificial sebum is observed. In the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, the makeup film observation step may include calculating the twist of the makeup loss as a numerical value by observing the amount of the cosmetic adhered to ^{a 1 cm 2 area of the artificial skin.} preferable. Since the area to which the foundation adheres decreases due to the twisting of the cosmetic film, ^{the non-adhering area ratio of the cosmetic per 1 cm 2} area can be calculated and quantified as the twisted area. As demonstrated in the examples and reference examples described later, according to the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, the twist of the makeup loss is similar to the evaluation of makeup lasting in humans even though it is an in vitro test. You can get the result.

Further, in the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, it is more preferable that the makeup film observation step includes calculating the shine of the makeup loss as a numerical value by observing the brightness of the makeup film. Since the brightness indicating the degree of brightness increases or decreases in the shine of makeup, the shine area ratio can be calculated from the brightness per ^{1 cm 2 area and quantified as the shine area.} As demonstrated in the examples and reference examples described later, according to the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, the shine of makeup loss is similar to the evaluation of makeup lasting in humans, even though it is an in vitro test. You can get the result.

<Model for evaluation of makeup loss>
The present invention also provides a model for evaluating cosmetic disintegration, which comprises artificial skin and artificial sebum applied on the artificial skin. Such a model for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention is a state after undergoing the artificial skin oil application step of the above-mentioned method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention, and such a model for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention is used. This makes it possible to smoothly and efficiently perform the steps after the artificial sebum application step of the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention.

The artificial skin, artificial sebum, etc. used in the makeup evaluation model of the present invention are as described above in the method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention. For even coating amount of artificial sebum, for the same reason as in the makeup of the evaluation method to that described above of the present invention is preferably a 0.1~10μL per 1 cm ² area of the artificial skin.

The cosmetic evaluation model of the present invention is preferably in a frozen state. In this case, after the freezing step in the above-mentioned method for evaluating makeup loss of the present invention can be smoothly and efficiently performed.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

[Creating an artificial skin replica]
For the artificial skin replica, a commercially available transparent replica agent was applied to the replica collected from the cheek of a general female, air bubbles were removed using an deaeration device, and a circular transparent artificial skin replica with a diameter of 4 cm was created. ..

<Reference Example 1 (in vitro test)>
[Evaluation of makeup loss due to dripping artificial sebum]
Commercially available artificial leather, liquid foundation sample as cosmetics (foundation 1, foundation 2, foundation 3 and foundation 4) was 1 cm ² per area 1μL coating. After sample application, thoroughly dried by standing a certain time, the artificial sebum was 1μL dropwise per 1 cm ² area dry cosmetic surface. After that, using a digital camera or an observation device with ring illumination, observe "the area of artificial sebum that spread immediately after dripping" and "the area of artificial sebum that spread after a certain period of time", and after a certain period of time immediately after dripping. The familiar area ratio of the spread artificial sebum was calculated. The calculated familiar area ratio of artificial sebum was evaluated according to the following evaluation standard 1.

(Evaluation Criteria 1)
×: Familiar area of artificial sebum is 100% or more △: Familiar area of artificial sebum is 50% or more and less than 100% 〇: Familiar area of artificial sebum is 20% or more and less than 50% ◎: Familiar area of artificial sebum is 20 Less than% (result)
There was a difference in the compatibility with artificial sebum depending on the cosmetics, and the evaluation results were obtained that the sustaining effect was higher in the order of foundation 3 = foundation 4 >> foundation 1 = foundation 2.

<Reference example 2 (actual use test)>
[Evaluation of makeup lasting by humans]
The same liquid foundation samples (Foundation 1, Foundation 2, Foundation 3 and Foundation 4) used in Reference Example 1 as cosmetics were applied to the subjects (10 subjects), and photographs were taken over time using an image pickup device. Then, a professional evaluator compared the long-lasting effect of makeup from the photographed images. Judgment of the lasting effect of makeup was made based on the presence or absence of shine and twist of the makeup, and the makeup lasting effect of each sample was evaluated by comparing the states until the shine and twist occurred according to the evaluation standard 2.

(Evaluation Criteria 2)
・ Twisting of cosmetic film ×: Time to cause twisting is less than 3 hours △: Time to cause twisting is 3 hours or more and less than 5 hours ○: Time to cause twisting is 5 hours or more and less than 10 hours ◎ : Time to make shine 10 hours or more ・ Cosmetic shine ×: Time to make shine less than 3 hours △: Time to make shine 3 hours or more and less than 5 hours ○: Time to make shine Time is 5 hours or more and less than 10 hours ◎: Time to generate shine is 10 hours or more (Result)
There was a difference in the duration of makeup depending on the cosmetics, and the lasting effect was higher in the order of foundation 2 = foundation 4> foundation 3> foundation 1 for twisting and foundation 2 = foundation 3 = foundation 4 >> foundation 1 for shiny.

The evaluation results of Reference Examples 1 and 2 are also shown in Table 1.

As is clear from Table 1, the foundation 3 which showed a high effect in the make-up lasting evaluation in the reference example 1 by dropping the artificial sebum was found to cause the make-up twist in the reference example 2 in the actual use. .. On the other hand, Foundation 2, which had a low cosmetic retention evaluation effect in Reference Example 1 due to artificial sebum dripping, had persistent makeup retention in Reference Example 2 in actual use, and different results were seen between the in vitro test and actual use. Was done.

<Example 1 (in vitro test)>
[Evaluation of makeup lasting using artificial skin]
The artificial sebum 1cm ² and per unit area 1μL applied to the transparent skin replica, created the makeup for evaluation model of the present invention. The prepared model for evaluating makeup loss was frozen at −30 ° C. for 1 hour. For each make-up collapse evaluation model, apply 1.25 μL of the same liquid foundation sample (foundation 1, foundation 2 and foundation 3) used in Reference Example 1 as a cosmetic ^{per 1 cm 2} area, and in an incubator at 37 ° C. By letting it stand for 1 hour, the makeup of the cosmetics collapsed.

The observation of the makeup loss was evaluated by observing the shine and the state change of the makeup film due to the makeup loss using an observation device equipped with ring lighting or an imaging device such as a digital camera. As for the twisting of the cosmetic film, the area where the foundation adheres decreases due to the twisting, so the non-adhering area ratio of the cosmetics per ^{1 cm 2 area was calculated and used as the twisted area.} As for the shine of makeup, the brightness indicating the degree of brightness increases or decreases, so ^{the shine area ratio per 1 cm 2} area was calculated and used as the shine area. After that, each item was compared according to the evaluation standard 3.

(Evaluation Criteria 3)
・ Twisting of cosmetic film ×: Twisting area is 15% or more △: Twisting area is 10% or more and less than 15% ○: Twisting area is 5% or more and less than 10% ◎: Twisting area is less than 5% ・ Makeup shine × : Shiny area is 15% or more △: Shiny area is 10% or more and less than 15% ○: Shiny area is 5% or more and less than 10% ◎: Shiny area is less than 5% (Result)
The evaluation results of Example 1 are shown in Table 2 together with the evaluation results of foundations 1 to 3 of Reference Example 2.

In both the evaluation results of Example 1 and Reference Example 2, no change was observed in Foundation 2, but twists were observed in Foundation 3, and twists and shines were observed in Foundation 1, and there was a difference in the susceptibility of makeup to disintegration depending on the foundation. Was seen. Furthermore, as can be seen from Table 2, the in vitro test in Example 1 gave results similar to the evaluation of makeup lasting in humans.

<Experimental example>
(Example 2)
Artificial skin replica artificial sebum 1 cm 2 [mu] L was applied per ² area, frozen for 1 hour at -30 ° C., to form an artificial sebum film, creating the makeup evaluation model of the present invention. For each make-up collapse evaluation model, apply 1.25 μL of the same liquid foundation sample (foundation 1, foundation 2 and foundation 3) used in Reference Example 1 as a cosmetic ^{per 1 cm 2} area, and in an incubator at 37 ° C. By letting it stand for 1 hour, the cosmetics were disintegrated and evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1.

(Comparative example)
After freezing at -30 ° C for 1 hour without applying artificial skin oil to the transparent skin replica, the same liquid foundation sample used in Reference Example 1 as a cosmetic for each artificial skin replica (Foundation 1, Foundation 2). and foundation 3) a 1 cm ² per area 1.25μL coating, by 1 hour standing in an incubator at 37 ° C., causing makeup cosmetics were evaluated in the same manner as in example 1.

(result)
The evaluation results of Example 2 and Comparative Example are shown in Table 3 together with the evaluation results of Example 1.

As can be seen from Table 3, there was a difference between the foundations in the timing at which the cosmetic film was twisted or shiny by increasing or decreasing the amount of artificial sebum applied.

The embodiments and examples disclosed this time should be considered to be exemplary and not restrictive in all respects. The scope of the present invention is shown by the scope of claims rather than the above description, and is intended to include all modifications within the meaning and scope equivalent to the scope of claims.

Claims (5)

Steps to apply artificial sebum to artificial skin,
The step of applying cosmetics on the artificial sebum,
Including the step of observing the state of the cosmetic film formed by the cosmetic.
A method for evaluating makeup loss, further comprising a step of freezing the artificial skin coated with the artificial sebum between a step of applying the artificial sebum to the artificial skin and a step of applying a cosmetic on the artificial sebum. Between the step of applying the cosmetic on the artificial sebum and the step of observing the state of the cosmetic film formed by the cosmetic, the artificial skin coated with the artificial sebum and the cosmetic is brought into a temperature atmosphere of 30 to 40 ° C. further comprising the step of 0.5-3 hours stand the method of claim 1. The method according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the amount of the artificial sebum applied is 0.1 to 10 μL per ^{1 cm 2 area of the artificial skin. The amount of the cosmetic applied is 1 to 10} μL per 1 cm 2 area of the artificial skin when the cosmetic is a liquid, and ^{0 per 1 cm 2} area of the artificial skin when the cosmetic is a powder. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein the amount is 1 to 1 mg. Any of claims 1 to 4 , wherein the step of observing the state of the makeup film includes calculating the twist of the makeup breakage as a numerical value by observing the amount of the cosmetic adhered to ^{the artificial skin in a 1 cm 2 area.} Or the method described in item 1.