JP7127536B2 - Aqueous skin cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to aqueous skin cosmetics.

The skin has important functions of preventing water loss from the body and blocking external stimuli. In order to maintain the original functions of the skin, it is important to maintain an appropriate amount of moisture in the skin through skin care and to maintain smooth skin.

Generally, in skin care, starting with rehydration with lotion, a method for preventing dryness and roughness of the skin is taken by using cosmetics containing oil such as milky lotion and cream.
On the other hand, it is now recognized by many consumers that oxidized oils have adverse effects on the skin. In addition, cosmetics containing oil may feel sticky, so so-called oil-free cosmetics are now in demand.

General oil-free cosmetics are mainly composed of water and polyhydric alcohol, and in order to provide a long-lasting moisturizing feeling, it was necessary to contain a high concentration of moisturizing agent, so it felt sticky. It was easy.
Therefore, studies have been made to improve the stickiness of cosmetics, and Patent Document 1 discloses a skin external preparation containing a combination of one or more mucopolysaccharides and trehalose, and Patent Document 2. proposes a skin cosmetic containing a polyol, an oily component, a hydrophobized polyvinylpyrrolidone, a higher alcohol and a surfactant as a skin cosmetic that is less sticky immediately after application and has a long-lasting moisturizing effect.
In the skin cosmetics described in the above patent documents, the moisturizing effect is enhanced while suppressing stickiness, but the effect of suppressing shine is insufficient.

As a technology for suppressing shine, methylpolysiloxane powder surface-coated with silica is used as an oil-absorbing substance, and water-soluble polymers, monohydric to trihydric alcohols, and HLB values of 1 to 8 at 25 ° C. A gel composition containing a liquid or paste nonionic surfactant (Patent Document 3) is disclosed, and is described as suppressing shine and stickiness due to sebum.
However, in the composition described in Patent Document 3, although it has a certain effect in suppressing shine due to the powder content, it may feel a touch peculiar to powder. It was inadequate in terms of suppressing shine.

The above-mentioned shininess is likely to be caused by sebum secreted on the face in an environment where the temperature and humidity change, such as when moving from a hot and humid place to an air-conditioned, low-humidity place in the summer. Also, it has been reported that it tends to occur in areas where sebum is abundantly secreted, such as the area called the T-zone of the face.
Skin cosmetics are required to be capable of suppressing shine under the environment where shine due to sebum is likely to occur and in areas where shine is likely to occur.
Furthermore, in recent years, the level of functions demanded by consumers in skin cosmetics has become even higher. There is a demand for the development of a skin cosmetic that provides a sticky yet smooth feeling, that is, a sticky feeling.

JP-A-6-122621 JP 2010-6725 A JP 2012-136455 A

Therefore, the present invention has an excellent moisturizing feeling, is less sticky, can satisfactorily suppress shininess even in an environment where shininess due to sebum is likely to occur or in a part where shininess is likely to occur, and furthermore, it is good for the skin. To provide an aqueous skin cosmetic capable of imparting a sticky feeling.

The present inventors have conducted studies to solve the above problems, and found that proteoglycan is combined with one or more selected from the group consisting of alkylene oxide adducts of glycerin and alkylene oxide adducts of alkylglucoside. By incorporating the above into an aqueous skin cosmetic, it is possible to have excellent moisturizing feeling, less stickiness, excellent suppression of shine, and furthermore, it is possible to give the skin a smooth feeling. The present invention has been completed.

That is, the aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention relates to the following.
[1] (a) 0.0005% by mass to 0.5% by mass of proteoglycan, and (b) an alkylene oxide addition derivative of glycerin represented by the following formula (I), and represented by the following formula (II) An aqueous skin cosmetic containing 0.1% to 30% by mass of one or more selected from the group consisting of alkylene oxide adducts of alkylglucosides.

[In formula (I), Gly is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glycerin, PO is an oxypropylene group, EO is an oxyethylene group, BO is an oxybutylene group, and a, b and c are PO, EO and BO, respectively. where a+b is 1 to 30, c is 1 to 5, and the content ratio of PO and EO (PO/EO) is 1/5 to 5/1 by mass. ]

[In the formula (II), R is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, G is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glucose, EO is an oxyethylene group, PO is an oxypropylene group, BO is an oxybutylene group, and x , y and z indicate the average number of added moles of EO, PO and BO, respectively. x is 5 to 20, y is 1 to 10, z is 1 to 2, and the content of EO is 55% to 90% by mass with respect to the total content of EO and PO (EO+PO). ]
[2] The aqueous skin cosmetic of [1], wherein the proteoglycan is a vegetable proteoglycan.

The water-based skin cosmetic of the present invention has excellent moisturizing properties and is less sticky, and can satisfactorily suppress shininess even in an environment where shininess due to sebum is likely to occur or in areas where shininess is likely to occur. A good sticky feeling can be given.

The present invention provides an aqueous skin cosmetic.
The aqueous skin cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises (a) proteoglycan, (b) an alkylene oxide addition derivative of glycerol represented by formula (I), and an alkylene oxide addition derivative of an alkylglucoside represented by formula (II). It contains one or more selected from the group (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "alkylene oxide adduct" in this specification).

(a) Proteoglycan In the aqueous cosmetic composition of the present invention, the proteoglycan contained as component (a) is a sugar-protein complex having a special structure, and includes animal and vegetable proteoglycans.
Animal proteoglycans are glycoproteins in which multiple glycosaminoglycans such as chondroitin sulfate and keratan sulfate are covalently bound to one core protein. are widely distributed in the body.
Plant proteoglycans are arabinogalactan and core protein bound in a certain manner, formally called arabinogalactan-protein (AGP), and are found in plant cell walls and sap as an extracellular matrix. exist.
In the present invention, both animal proteoglycans and vegetable proteoglycans can be used as the component (a). However, considering production costs and the recent tendency to prefer vegetable raw materials, vegetable proteoglycans are used. is preferred.

As the vegetable proteoglycan, those made from gum arabic obtained from Acacia senegal Willdenow belonging to the genus Acacia of the subfamily Albaceae of the family Fabaceae or from plants closely related to the same genus are preferably used. Here, gum arabic is obtained by drying the exudate exuding from the wound of the bark of the plant.
Gum arabic obtained from Acacia senegal Willdenow or its seyal species, Acacia seyal Delile, is used for the purpose of the present invention, because it is possible to obtain proteoglycans having bioactivity equal to or higher than that of animal proteoglycans. The raw material is more preferred, and the raw material is more preferably gum arabic obtained from Acacia senegal Willdenow.

In the present invention, the vegetable proteoglycan preferably used as the component (a) is obtained as a purified product obtained by removing mainly arabinogalactan and glycoprotein from gum arabic obtained from plants such as Hevea arabic.
For purposes of the present invention, plant proteoglycans have a weight average molecular weight of 900,000 to 3,500,000 as measured by size exclusion chromatography with an on-line multi-angle light scattering detector and a differential refractive index detector. One is preferably used, and one of 1,000,000 to 3,000,000 is more preferably used.
In addition, it is measured by an aldehyde quantification kit such as Amplite (trademark) Aldehyde Quantitation Kit (colorimetric) (product number: 10051) (manufactured by AAT Bioquest). Those having a total aldehyde content of 0.005 μmol equivalent/g to 2.0 μmol equivalent/g are preferably used.

The above-described proteoglycans can be used singly or in combination of two or more in the aqueous cosmetic composition of the present invention.
Animal proteoglycans may be extracted and purified from animal tissues such as salmon nasal cartilage, shark fin cartilage and squid head cartilage, and may be used, but commercial products provided by various companies may also be used. can.
On the other hand, vegetable proteoglycan is preferably obtained by subjecting an aqueous gum arabic solution prepared to 0.5% by mass to 40% by mass to a porous type I strongly basic anion exchange resin and a strongly acidic cation exchange resin for purification. Although it can be manufactured, it is also possible to use a commercially available product, which is generally available as an aqueous solution having an active ingredient content of about 1% by weight.
Such commercial products of vegetable proteoglycans include, for example, "Phytoproteoglycan (registered trademark)" manufactured by NOF Corporation.

The content of component (a) in the aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention is 0.0005% by mass to 0.5% by mass, preferably 0.001% by mass to 0.3% by mass, more preferably 0.005 mass % to 0.1 mass %.
If the content of the component (a) is less than 0.0005% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a sustained moisturizing feeling, and the effect of suppressing shine and providing a smooth feeling may be reduced.
On the other hand, even if the content of component (a) exceeds 0.5% by mass, an effect commensurate with the added amount cannot be obtained, which is not economical.

(b) Alkylene oxide addition derivative In the aqueous skin cosmetic composition of the present invention, the alkylene oxide addition derivative contained as component (b) is an alkylene oxide addition derivative of glycerin represented by the following formula (I), and the following formula ( It is selected from the group consisting of alkylene oxide adducts of alkyl glucosides represented by II).

[In the formula (I), Gly is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glycerin, PO is an oxypropylene group, EO is an oxyethylene group, BO is an oxybutylene group, a, b and c are PO, EO and BO, respectively. shows the average number of added moles of a+b is 1 to 30, c is 1 to 5, and the content ratio of PO and EO (PO/EO) is 1/5 to 5/1 by mass. ]

[In the formula (II), R is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, G is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glucose, EO is an oxyethylene group, PO is an oxypropylene group, BO is an oxybutylene group, x , y and z indicate the average number of added moles of EO, PO and BO, respectively. x is 5 to 20, y is 1 to 10, z is 1 to 2, and the content of EO is 55% to 90% by mass with respect to the total content of EO and PO (EO+PO). ]

In formula (I), the oxypropylene group represented by PO and the oxybutylene group represented by BO may be linear or branched. Oxypropylene and oxybutylene groups are preferred, respectively.
In formula (I), for the oxypropylene group represented by PO and the oxyethylene group represented by EO, the total average number of added moles (a+b) per hydroxyl group of glycerin is 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 20, more preferably 3-10. Regarding the oxybutylene group represented by BO, the average addition mole number c per monohydroxyl group of glycerin is 1-5, preferably 1-3, more preferably 1-2.
In the alkylene oxide addition derivative of glycerin represented by formula (I), the content ratio (PO/EO) of the oxypropylene group represented by PO and the oxyethylene group represented by EO (PO/EO) is 1/5 to 5/ 1, preferably 1/2 to 4/1, more preferably 1/2 to 3/1.
In addition, the oxypropylene group and the oxyethylene group may be added to the hydroxyl group of glycerin in either a random or block form, but in order to obtain a high penetration feeling, it is preferable to add them in a random form. preferable. The oxybutylene group is added blockwise to the end of the alkylene oxide chain.

The alkylene oxide addition derivative of glycerin represented by formula (I) can be appropriately synthesized and used by a known alkylene oxide addition reaction. Registered trademark) S-753” (where a + b = 4.3, c = 1 in formula (I), and the content mass ratio of PO and EO (PO/EO) = 4/5). Products can also be used.

In formula (II), the alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms represented by R includes methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl, preferably methyl and ethyl. , methyl is more preferred.

In formula (II), the oxypropylene group represented by PO and the oxybutylene group represented by BO may be linear or branched, but 1,2-propylene oxide and 1,2-butylene oxide Oxypropylene and oxybutylene groups obtained respectively by are preferred.
Further, in formula (II), the average added mole number of the oxyethylene group (EO) represented by x is 5-20, preferably 6-15, more preferably 6-10. The average added mole number of the oxypropylene group (PO) represented by y is 1-10, preferably 2-8, more preferably 2-5. The average number of added moles of the oxybutylene group represented by z is 1 to 2, preferably 1.
In the alkylene oxide addition derivative of the alkyl glucoside represented by formula (II), the content of the oxyethylene group represented by EO with respect to the total content of the oxyethylene group represented by EO and the oxypropylene group represented by PO (EO + PO) The amount is 55% to 90% by weight, preferably 60% to 80% by weight, more preferably 65% to 75% by weight.
Also, the oxyethylene group and the oxyprepylene group may be added to the hydroxyl group of the alkylglucoside in either block or random form, but random addition is preferred. The oxybutylene group is added blockwise to the end of the alkylene oxide chain.

In the alkylglucoside alkylene oxide adduct represented by formula (II), the alkylene oxide groups are attached to all free hydroxyl groups of the alkylglucoside.

The alkylene oxide addition derivative of the alkylglucoside represented by formula (II) can be appropriately synthesized and used by a known per se known alkylene oxide addition reaction to glucose.

In the present invention, as the component (b), one or more selected from the group consisting of the alkylene oxide addition derivative of glycerin and the alkylene oxide addition derivative of alkylglycoside can be used.

The content of component (b) in the aqueous skin cosmetic composition of the present invention is 0.1% by mass to 30% by mass, preferably 1% by mass to 20% by mass, more preferably 2% by mass to 10% by mass. %.
If the content of the component (b) is less than 0.1% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a sustained moisturizing feeling, and the effect of suppressing shine and giving a smooth feeling to the skin may be reduced.
On the other hand, when the content of the component (b) exceeds 30% by mass, the stickiness may become strong.

In the aqueous skin cosmetic composition of the present invention, in addition to the above components (a) and (b), general ingredients used in cosmetics, quasi-drugs, pharmaceuticals, etc., within a range that does not impair the characteristics of the present invention. Additives may be included.
Such additives include, for example, solvents such as lower alcohols, moisturizing agents, skin conditioning agents, anti-inflammatory and anti-rough skin agents, cell activators, whitening agents, UV absorbers, UV scattering agents, surfactants, highly water-soluble Molecules, thickening polysaccharides, antioxidants, pH adjusters, preservatives, chelating agents, scrubbing agents, coloring agents, fragrances and the like.
One or more of these additives may be contained depending on the purpose.

The aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention usually contains water in addition to the above components (a) and (b) and optional additives.
As the water, water generally used for cosmetics or pharmaceuticals can be used, and for example, ion-exchanged water, purified water, and the like can be used.
The water content in the aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 60% to 98% by mass, more preferably 70% to 97% by mass.

The aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention is in the form of liquid or gel, that is, in the form of a gel with a high water content. , as a skin cosmetic such as a gel spray.
The aqueous skin cosmetic of the present invention in the form described above can be produced by a general manufacturing method known in the art, for example, the "external liquid" and "gel" in the 17th revision of the Japanese Pharmacopoeia General Rules for Preparations [3] Preparations. and "spray agent".

The aqueous skin cosmetic composition of the present invention is suitably used for skin care, has an excellent moisturizing effect and is less sticky, and does not become oily even in an environment where oily skin tends to cause oily skin or in areas where oily skin tends to occur. It is possible to satisfactorily suppress it, and furthermore, to give a good sticky feeling to the skin. Here, the "sticky and smooth feeling" means the feeling that the skin is firm and smooth, as described above.

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

[Examples 1 to 3, Comparative Examples 1 to 4]
Components (a) and (b) in Table 1 were added to purified water and mixed to homogenize to prepare aqueous skin cosmetics of Examples 1 to 3.
In addition, the (a) component or (a') component, (b) component or (b') component in Table 1 was added to purified water and mixed to obtain a uniform aqueous skin cosmetic composition of Comparative Examples 1 to 4. was prepared.
In addition, in Table 1, each numerical value shown for each component indicates the content (% by mass) of each component.

In addition, the raw materials used in the preparation of the aqueous skin cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples are as follows.
(i) (a) Vegetable proteoglycan: (“Phytoproteoglycan” (manufactured by NOF Corporation)) (weight average molecular weight = about 1,200,000, total aldehyde content = 1.8 μmol equivalent/g)
(ii) (b) Alkylene oxide addition derivative of glycerin: "WILBRIDE (registered trademark) S-753" (in formula (I), a + b = 4.3, c = 1, containing PO and EO Mass ratio (PO/EO) = 4/5)
(iii) (a′) xanthan gum: “Keltrol T” (manufactured by CP Kelco US, Inc.)
(iv) (b') glycerin: "RG-S" (manufactured by NOF Corporation)

20 men and women (24 to 58 years old) were panelists for each of the water-based skin cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples. , "effect of suppressing shine in the T zone under an environment where temperature and humidity change" and "smoothness of the skin" were subjected to sensory evaluation.

(1) Moisturizing feeling 2 hours after application Each panelist applied 1 g of each aqueous skin cosmetic of Examples and Comparative Examples to the entire face, and the moisturizing feeling of the skin after 2 hours was scored according to the following evaluation criteria. let me The total score of 20 persons' evaluation points was calculated and evaluated according to the following criteria.
<Evaluation Criteria>
2 points: Very moisturizing feeling 1 point: Somewhat moisturizing feeling 0 point: No moisturizing feeling <Judgment criteria>
◎: Total score is 35 points or more ○: Total score is 30 points or more and less than 35 points △: Total score is less than 30 points

(2) Absence of stickiness after application Each panelist was asked to wash the T-zone of the face with soap, and then apply 1 g of each aqueous skin cosmetic of Examples and Comparative Examples to the entire face. was scored according to the following evaluation criteria. The total score of 20 persons' evaluation points was calculated and evaluated according to the following criteria.
<Evaluation Criteria>
2 points: no stickiness felt 1 point: little stickiness felt 0 point: very sticky feeling <Judgment Criteria>
◎: Total score is 35 points or more ○: Total score is 30 points or more and less than 35 points △: Total score is less than 30 points

(3) Effect of suppressing shine in an environment where temperature and humidity change Twenty panelists were allowed to stay in a room of 35°C and humidity of 70% for 10 minutes, and then moved to a room of 20°C and humidity of 50%. After 10 minutes, the panelists were towel-dried, and after 10 minutes, the face of each panelist was photographed. Each panelist was allowed to apply 1 g of each of the water-based skin cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples to the face and use it for 4 weeks, after which the face was similarly photographed. The degree of oiliness observed in the T-zone was compared in photographs of the face before and after using each aqueous skin cosmetic, and scored according to the following evaluation criteria. The total score of 20 persons' evaluation points was calculated and evaluated according to the following criteria.
<Evaluation Criteria>
2 points: Shine is suppressed 1 point: Shine is somewhat suppressed 0 point: Shine is not suppressed <Judgment criteria>
◎: Total score is 35 points or more ○: Total score is 30 points or more and less than 35 points △: Total score is less than 30 points

(4) Feeling of smoothness Each panelist applied 1 g of each of the aqueous skin cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples to the entire face, stayed in a room at 35°C and humidity of 70% for 60 minutes, and felt the skin lastingly. was scored according to the following evaluation criteria. The total score of 20 persons' evaluation points was calculated and evaluated according to the following criteria.
<Evaluation Criteria>
2 points: Very sticky feeling 1 point: Not much sticky feeling 0 point: No sticky feeling <Judgment criteria>
◎: Total score is 35 points or more ○: Total score is 30 points or more and less than 35 points △: Total score is less than 30 points

The above evaluation results are also shown in Table 1. In addition, the numerical value added to the evaluation result in each evaluation item indicates the total score of the evaluation points of the panelists. In each evaluation item, the case where it was evaluated as "⊚" and "○" was regarded as a pass.

As shown in Table 1, all the aqueous skin cosmetics of Examples 1 to 3 of the present invention were evaluated as acceptable in all evaluation items.
In particular, in the aqueous skin cosmetic composition of Example 1 containing 0.03% by mass of proteoglycan as component (a) and 5% by mass of alkylene oxide adduct of glycerin as component (b), in all evaluation items, An evaluation of "A" was obtained.

On the other hand, none of the water-based skin cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was evaluated as passing in all evaluation items.
That is, the water-based skin cosmetic of Comparative Example 1, which does not contain the component (b), does not provide a moisturizing feeling 2 hours after application, an effect of suppressing shine in an environment where temperature and humidity change, and a smooth skin feeling. rated as adequate.
The water-based skin cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 2, which does not contain the component (a), was evaluated as insufficient in the effect of suppressing shine in an environment where temperature and humidity change and in the smoothness of the skin.
The aqueous skin cosmetic of Comparative Example 3 containing glycerin (component (b')) instead of component (b) was evaluated as insufficient in moisturizing feeling and smooth skin feeling 2 hours after application. and some stickiness was observed.
The aqueous skin cosmetic of Comparative Example 4 containing xanthan gum (component (a')) instead of component (a) did not have the effect of suppressing shine in an environment where temperature and humidity change, and the skin had a smooth feeling. It was rated as satisfactory, and some stickiness was noted.

As described in detail above, the present invention provides an excellent moisturizing feeling with less stickiness, and can satisfactorily suppress shine even in an environment where shine due to sebum is likely to occur or in a part where shine is likely to occur. Furthermore, it is possible to provide an aqueous skin cosmetic that can impart a good sticky feeling to the skin.

Claims (2)

(a) 0.0005% by mass to 0.5% by mass of proteoglycan, and (b) an alkylene oxide addition derivative of glycerin represented by the following formula (I) and an alkyl glucoside represented by the following formula (II) An aqueous skin cosmetic containing 0.1% to 30% by mass of one or more selected from the group consisting of alkylene oxide adducts.

[In the formula (I), Gly is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glycerin, PO is an oxypropylene group, EO is an oxyethylene group, BO is an oxybutylene group, a, b and c are PO, EO and BO, respectively. where a+b is 1 to 30, c is 1 to 5, and the PO/EO content ratio (PO/EO) is 1/5 to 5/1 by mass. ]

[In the formula (II), R is an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, G is a residue obtained by removing a hydroxyl group from glucose, EO is an oxyethylene group, PO is an oxypropylene group, BO is an oxybutylene group, x , y and z indicate the average number of added moles of EO, PO and BO, respectively. x is 5 to 20, y is 1 to 10, z is 1 to 2, and the content of EO is 55% to 90% by mass with respect to the total content of EO and PO (EO+PO). ] 2. The aqueous skin cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the proteoglycan is a vegetable proteoglycan.