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JP7698946B2 - False twist textured yarn - Google Patents
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JP7698946B2 - False twist textured yarn - Google Patents

False twist textured yarn Download PDF

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JP7698946B2
JP7698946B2 JP2020161236A JP2020161236A JP7698946B2 JP 7698946 B2 JP7698946 B2 JP 7698946B2 JP 2020161236 A JP2020161236 A JP 2020161236A JP 2020161236 A JP2020161236 A JP 2020161236A JP 7698946 B2 JP7698946 B2 JP 7698946B2
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yarn
untwisted
false twist
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twist textured
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JP2022054185A (en
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弘子 倉谷
徹治 大林
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Unitika Trading Co Ltd
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Description

本発明は、ポリエステルフィラメントであって、糸条長手方向に未解撚部と解撚部が存在する仮撚加工糸に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a polyester filament false twist textured yarn having untwisted and untwisted portions in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

従来、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントを用いて麻ライクな特殊風合を付与する加工方法としては、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントを融着高温領域で仮撚加工を施し、単繊維相互を部分的に融着させ、同時に未解撚部をも生じさせる方法が周知である。
つまり、このような加工糸は、仮撚加工時に加熱されたマルチフィラメントが部分的に融着し、撚り方向と同一方向に融着固定された未解撚部と、撚り方向と反対方向に解撚された解撚部とを、糸条の長手方向に交互に存在させた構造のものである。
Conventionally, as a processing method for imparting a linen-like special texture using polyester multifilaments, a method has been known in which the polyester multifilaments are false-twisted in a fusion high temperature range to partially fuse the single fibers to each other while simultaneously producing untwisted portions.
In other words, such textured yarns have a structure in which the multifilaments heated during false twist processing are partially fused, and untwisted sections that are fused and fixed in the same direction as the twist direction and untwisted sections that are untwisted in the opposite direction to the twist direction are alternated in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

特許文献1には、糸中の未解撚部の長さと数をある数量以上存在させることにより、実撚糸様の風合いや淡い絣模様を呈する布帛を形成し得る融着延伸仮撚加工糸が提案されている。 Patent Document 1 proposes a fusion-bonded draw-twisted yarn that can produce a fabric with a texture similar to that of real twist yarn and a faint ikat pattern by allowing the number and length of untwisted parts in the yarn to exceed a certain amount.

また、特許文献2には、融着延伸仮撚加工糸の未解撚長を短くすることにより、豊かな表情の編織物を作製可能な融着仮撚加工糸が提案されている。 Patent Document 2 also proposes a fusion-bonded false twist textured yarn that can produce knitted and woven fabrics with rich textures by shortening the untwisted length of the fusion-bonded draw false twist textured yarn.

これらの仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部と解撚部を有しているが、仮撚加工を施した後の糸条全体はほぼ均一な太さとなっており、見た目上の変化は若干量にとどまるため、糸条全体で良好な風合いを醸し出しているとは言い難いという問題があった。そこで、特許文献3においては、原糸の一部に加熱処理を施して加撚時の撚りを融着保持した細い未解撚部と、原糸の他部に過剰に解撚処理を施して膨らみを持たせた太いオーバー解撚部とを備えた仮撚加工糸が提案されている。 These false twisted yarns have untwisted and untwisted parts, but the yarn after the false twisting process has a nearly uniform thickness, and there is only a slight change in appearance, so it is difficult to say that the yarn as a whole has a good texture. Therefore, Patent Document 3 proposes a false twisted yarn that has a thin untwisted part in which part of the raw yarn is heat-treated to fuse and retain the twist at the time of twisting, and a thick over-untwisted part in which the other part of the raw yarn is excessively untwisted to give it volume.

しかしながら、いずれの仮撚加工糸においても、製織することにより十分なハリコシ感、麻ライクな風合を有する織物を得ることはできていなかった。 However, none of the false twist textured yarns have been able to produce fabrics with sufficient stiffness and a linen-like feel through weaving.

特開昭55-67025号公報Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 55-67025 特開平8-100340号公報Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 8-100340 特開2002-161445号公報JP 2002-161445 A

本発明は、上記のような問題点を解決するものであり、十分なハリコシ感、麻ライクな風合を有する織物を得ることが可能となる仮撚加工糸を提供することを技術的な課題とするものである。 The present invention aims to solve the problems described above, and its technical objective is to provide a false twist textured yarn that can produce a woven fabric with sufficient firmness and a linen-like feel.

本発明者等は、前記課題を解決すべく鋭意検討を行ったところ、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条長手方向の長さ、幅方向の長さ及び個数を特定の範囲のものにすることにより、上記の課題を解決することができることを見出し、本発明に到達したものである。 The inventors conducted extensive research to solve the above problems, and discovered that the problems could be solved by setting the length in the yarn longitudinal direction, the length in the yarn width direction, and the number of the untwisted and untwisted parts within specific ranges, thus arriving at the present invention.

すなわち、本発明は、以下を要旨とするものである。
(1)ポリエステルフィラメントからなり、糸条長手方向に未解撚部と解撚部が交互に存在する仮撚加工糸であって、糸条長手方向に長さが0.3~12mmである未解撚部を、糸条1mあたり40~110個有し、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条幅方向の長さの比(未解撚部/解撚部)が1/~1/14である仮撚加工糸。
(2)未解撚部として、長さが0.3~3mm未満の未解撚部Aと長さが3~12mmの未解撚部Bを有し、未解撚部Aを、糸条1mあたりに30~85個有し、未解撚部Bを、糸条1mあたりに3~25個有する、(1)に記載の仮撚加工糸。
(3)糸条1mあたりの未解撚部の総長さと前記糸条1mあたりの解撚部の総長さの比が、未解撚部の総長さ/解撚部の総長さ=1/3~1/10である(1)又は(2)に記載の仮撚加工糸。
(4)仮撚加工糸を構成する単繊維は、単繊維繊度が5~20dtexであり、繊維長手方向に対して垂直な断面が凸部を3~8個有する多葉形状である(1)~(3)のいずれかに記載の仮撚加工糸。
That is, the present invention provides the following.
(1) A false twist textured yarn made of polyester filaments, in which untwisted and untwisted sections exist alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the false twist textured yarn having 40 to 110 untwisted sections each having a length of 0.3 to 12 mm in the longitudinal direction of the yarn per meter of the yarn, and a length ratio of the untwisted sections to the untwisted sections in the width direction of the yarn (untwisted sections/untwisted sections) of 1/3 to 1/14.
(2) A false twisted yarn according to (1), in which the untwisted portions have untwisted portions A having a length of 0.3 to less than 3 mm and untwisted portions B having a length of 3 to 12 mm, and there are 30 to 85 untwisted portions A per meter of the yarn, and 3 to 25 untwisted portions B per meter of the yarn.
(3) False twisted yarn according to (1) or (2), in which the ratio of the total length of the untwisted portions per meter of the yarn to the total length of the untwisted portions per meter of the yarn is total length of untwisted portions/total length of untwisted portions = 1/3 to 1/10.
(4) A false twist textured yarn according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the single fibers constituting the false twist textured yarn have a single fiber fineness of 5 to 20 dtex and a multi-lobal shape having 3 to 8 convex portions in a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the fiber.

本発明の仮撚加工糸は、糸条長手方向に未解撚部と解撚部が交互に存在し、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条長手方向の長さ、幅方向の長さ及び個数が特定の範囲を満足するものであるため、製織することにより十分なハリコシ感、麻ライクな風合、さらには染色性にも優れた織物を得ることが可能となる。 The false twist textured yarn of the present invention has alternating untwisted and untwisted sections in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the lengths of the untwisted and untwisted sections in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the lengths in the width direction, and the number of sections satisfy specific ranges, so that by weaving it, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric that has sufficient firmness, a linen-like feel, and excellent dyeability.

本発明の仮撚加工糸の一実施態様を示す、拡大模式図である。FIG. 1 is an enlarged schematic diagram showing one embodiment of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention. 本発明の仮撚加工糸の製造方法の一例を示す工程図である。FIG. 1 is a process diagram showing an example of a method for producing false twist textured yarn of the present invention. 比較例の仮撚加工糸の製造方法を示す工程図である。FIG. 2 is a process diagram showing a method for producing false twist textured yarn of a comparative example.

以下、本発明の仮撚加工糸について図面を用いて説明する。
図1は、本発明の仮撚加工糸の部分拡大図であり、図1(a)は未解撚部1の拡大図、図1(b)は解撚部2の拡大図である。
本発明の仮撚加工糸は、高配向未延伸糸、もしくは延伸糸である原糸に対して、仮撚加工を施すことによって、糸条長手方向に未解撚部1と解撚部2が交互に形成される。
前記未解撚部1は、原糸の一部が加撚されながら高温で加熱されて溶融し、原糸を構成する単繊維が互いに融着することによって形成されており、加撚状態の撚りを保持している。解撚部2は、仮撚加工時に原糸の融着されていない箇所を過剰に解撚させることにより形成されており、単繊維同士の間隔が拡がることによって大きな膨らみを有している。
The false twist textured yarn of the present invention will now be described with reference to the drawings.
FIG. 1 is a partial enlarged view of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention, in which FIG. 1( a ) is an enlarged view of an untwisted portion 1 and FIG.
The false twist textured yarn of the present invention is formed by false twisting a raw yarn, which is a highly oriented undrawn yarn or a drawn yarn, so that untwisted portions 1 and untwisted portions 2 are formed alternately in the yarn longitudinal direction.
The untwisted portion 1 is formed by heating and melting a part of the raw yarn while twisting it, and fusing the single fibers that make up the raw yarn to each other, thereby maintaining the twist in the twisted state. The untwisted portion 2 is formed by excessively untwisting the unfused parts of the raw yarn during false twisting, and has a large bulge due to the widening of the spaces between the single fibers.

上記の未解撚部1及び解撚部2は、糸条長手方向に交互に存在する。そして、未解撚部1の糸条長手方向の長さは0.3~12mmであり、かつ糸条1mあたりに存在する未解撚部1の個数が40~110個/mである。未解撚部1の個数が40個/m未満であったり、110個/mを超えると、得られる織物は、ハリコシ感や麻ライクな風合い(シャリ感)に乏しいものとなる。
中でも、このようなハリコシ感や麻ライクな風合いに優れた織物を得るには、本発明の仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部1として、糸条1mあたりに長さが0.3~3mm未満の未解撚部分Aが35~85個存在し、長さが3~12mmの未解撚部分Bが5~25個存在することが好ましい。
The untwisted portions 1 and untwisted portions 2 are alternately present in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The length of the untwisted portions 1 in the longitudinal direction of the yarn is 0.3 to 12 mm, and the number of untwisted portions 1 present per meter of the yarn is 40 to 110/m. If the number of untwisted portions 1 is less than 40/m or exceeds 110/m, the resulting woven fabric will lack firmness and linen-like texture (crispness).
In particular, in order to obtain a woven fabric having excellent stiffness and a linen-like texture, it is preferable that the false twisted yarn of the present invention has, as the untwisted portion 1, 35 to 85 untwisted portions A each having a length of 0.3 to less than 3 mm per meter of yarn, and 5 to 25 untwisted portions B each having a length of 3 to 12 mm per meter of yarn.

そして、糸条1mあたりの未解撚部1の総長さと糸条1mあたりの解撚部2の総長さの比が、未解撚部の総長さ/解撚部の総長さ=1/3~1/10であることが好ましく、中でも1/4~1/8であることが好ましい。 The ratio of the total length of the untwisted sections 1 per meter of yarn to the total length of the untwisted sections 2 per meter of yarn is preferably 1/3 to 1/10, more preferably 1/4 to 1/8, i.e., total length of the untwisted sections/total length of the untwisted sections.

さらに、本発明の仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条幅方向の長さの比(未解撚部/解撚部)が1/2~1/14であり、中でも1/3~1/12であることが好ましい。 Furthermore, the false twisted yarn of the present invention has a ratio of the length of the untwisted section to the untwisted section in the yarn width direction (untwisted section/untwisted section) of 1/2 to 1/14, preferably 1/3 to 1/12.

本発明の仮撚加工糸は、上記したように、単繊維同士が融着した未解撚部と単繊維同士が融着していない解撚部の糸条長手方向の長さ、幅方向の長さの比が上記の範囲内のものであることにより、糸条全体の外観は複雑で変化に富むものとなり、布帛にした際に麻ライクな風合いとハリコシ感を呈することが可能となる。したがって、これらの長さの比が上記範囲外となる場合には、得られる布帛は麻ライクな風合いとハリコシ感に乏しいものとなる。 As described above, the false twisted yarn of the present invention has a ratio of the length in the longitudinal direction of the yarn to the length in the transverse direction of the untwisted portion where the single fibers are fused to each other and the untwisted portion where the single fibers are not fused to each other within the above range, so that the appearance of the entire yarn is complex and varied, and when made into a fabric, it is possible to present a linen-like texture and stiffness. Therefore, if the ratio of these lengths is outside the above range, the resulting fabric will lack the linen-like texture and stiffness.

前記した、仮撚加工糸における未解撚部の糸条長手方向の長さと個数、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条幅方向の長さは、以下のようにして測定するものである。
仮撚加工糸に0.0882cN/dtexの初荷重をかけ、1mの所に印をつける。次に軽荷重0.00882cN/dtexの荷重下で光学顕微鏡(キーエンス社製「マイクロスコープVHX-900」)を用いて未解撚部の長さを測定し、かつ、糸条1mあたりに長さが0.3~3mm未満の未解撚部分A及び3~12mmの未解撚部分Bに区分けし個数を求める。このとき、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条幅も測定する。N=5で測定し、その平均値を算出する。
なお、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条幅は、目視にて最大となる糸幅部分を測定するものとする。
The length and number of untwisted portions in the yarn longitudinal direction, and the lengths of the untwisted portions and untwisted portions in the yarn width direction in the false twist textured yarn described above are measured as follows.
An initial load of 0.0882 cN/dtex is applied to the false twisted yarn, and a mark is made at 1 m. Next, under a light load of 0.00882 cN/dtex, the length of the untwisted portion is measured using an optical microscope (Keyence Corporation's Microscope VHX-900) and the number of untwisted portions is calculated, dividing the length per meter of yarn into untwisted portions A with lengths of 0.3 to less than 3 mm and untwisted portions B with lengths of 3 to 12 mm. At this time, the yarn widths of the untwisted and untwisted portions are also measured. Measurements are made for N=5, and the average value is calculated.
The yarn width of the untwisted and untwisted portions is measured at the widest yarn width portion when visually observed.

本発明の仮撚加工糸は、ポリエステルフィラメントからなるものである。ポリエステルフィラメントとしては、ポリアルキレンテレフタレートに代表されるポリエステルから構成されるものであればよい。具体的には、ポリエチレンテレフタレート(PET)、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートなどが挙げられる。また、粘度、熱的特性、相溶性などに鑑みて、イソフタル酸、5-スルホイソフタル酸などの芳香族ジカルボン酸、アジピン酸、コハク酸、スベリン酸、セバシン酸、ドデカン二酸などの脂肪族ジカルボン酸、及びエチレングリコール、プロピレングリコール、1,4-ブタンジオール、1,4-シクロヘキサンジメタノールなどの脂肪族ジオールや、グリコール酸、ヒドロキシ酪酸、ヒドロキシ吉草酸、ヒドロキシカプロン酸、ヒドロキシペンタン酸、ヒドロキシヘプタン酸、ヒドロキシオクタン酸などのヒドロキシカルボン酸、ε-カプロラクトンなどの脂肪族ラクトンなどを共重合させてもよい。 The false twist textured yarn of the present invention is made of polyester filaments. The polyester filaments may be made of polyesters such as polyalkylene terephthalates. Specific examples include polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate. In consideration of viscosity, thermal properties, compatibility, and the like, aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid and 5-sulfoisophthalic acid, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as adipic acid, succinic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, and dodecanedioic acid, aliphatic diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol, and 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, hydroxycarboxylic acids such as glycolic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxyvaleric acid, hydroxycaproic acid, hydroxypentanoic acid, hydroxyheptanoic acid, and hydroxyoctanoic acid, and aliphatic lactones such as ε-caprolactone may be copolymerized.

また、上記のポリエステルフィラメントには、機能性を付与するための帯電防止剤、抗菌剤、消臭剤等が添加されていてもよい。 The polyester filaments may also contain additives such as antistatic agents, antibacterial agents, and deodorants to provide functionality.

そして、本発明の仮撚加工糸を構成する単繊維は、単繊維繊度が5~20dtexであることが好ましく、中でも8~18dtexであることが好ましい。また、これらの単繊維は、繊維長手方向に対して垂直な断面が凸部を3~8個有する多葉形状であることが好ましく、中でも凸部を4個有する十字型断面形状であることが好ましい。このように、仮撚加工糸を構成する単繊維の単繊維繊度が比較的大きく、かつ凸部を有する断面形状のものであることにより、糸条全体の外観は複雑で変化に富むものとなる。 The single fibers constituting the false twist textured yarn of the present invention preferably have a single fiber fineness of 5 to 20 dtex, and more preferably 8 to 18 dtex. Furthermore, these single fibers preferably have a multi-lobed shape with 3 to 8 convex portions in a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the fiber, and more preferably have a cross-shaped cross section with 4 convex portions. In this way, the single fibers constituting the false twist textured yarn have a relatively large single fiber fineness and a cross-sectional shape with convex portions, so that the appearance of the entire yarn is complex and rich in variety.

つまり、仮撚加工の際に、各単繊維の凸部同士が歯車のごとく絡み合い、容易に離れないように交絡された部分は未解撚部となり、糸条幅方向の長さが小さいものとなる。一方、各単繊維の凸部同士が絡み合わない部分は解撚部となり、交絡されずに存在することから、各単繊維が有する凸部形状により嵩高く、ふくらみが大きいものとなり、糸条幅方向の長さが大きいものとなる。 In other words, during false twist processing, the convex portions of each single fiber intertwine like gears, and the intertwined portions do not easily separate, becoming untwisted portions, with a small length in the width direction of the yarn. On the other hand, the portions where the convex portions of each single fiber do not intertwine become untwisted portions, and since they exist without being intertwined, the convex shapes of each single fiber make them bulky and bulging, and therefore the length in the width direction of the yarn is large.

また、本発明の仮撚加工糸の総繊度は90~200dtexであることが好ましく、中でも100~180dtexであることが好ましい。 In addition, the total fineness of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention is preferably 90 to 200 dtex, and more preferably 100 to 180 dtex.

さらに、本発明の仮撚加工糸の捲縮率は、20~60%であることが好ましく、中でも30~50%であることが好ましい。このような捲縮率とすることで、織物にした際のふかつきがなくソフトになり過ぎない。未解撚部と解撚部のバランスと融合する事によりシャリ、ハリコシ感も良好な織物が得られる。 Furthermore, the crimp rate of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention is preferably 20 to 60%, and more preferably 30 to 50%. By setting the crimp rate at such a rate, the fabric will not be too fluffy or soft when woven. By achieving a good balance between the untwisted and untwisted parts, a fabric with good crispness and firmness can be obtained.

上記の捲縮率は以下のようにして測定するものである。仮撚加工糸を枠周1.125mの検尺機を用いて巻き数5回で試料をカセ取りした後、カセを室温下フリー状態でスタンドに一昼夜吊り下げる。次に、カセに0.000147cN/dtexの荷重を掛けたまま沸水中に投入し30分間湿熱処理する。その後、カセを取り出し、水分を濾紙で軽く取り、室温下フリー状態で30分間放置する。そして、カセに0.000147cN/dtexの荷重及び0.00177cN/dex(軽重荷)を掛け、長さXを測定する。続いて、0.000147cN/dtexの荷重は掛けたまま、軽重荷に代えて0.044cN/dtexの荷重(重荷重)を掛け、長さYを測定する。その後、以下の式により捲縮率を算出する。
捲縮率(%)=(Y-X)/Y×100
捲縮率の測定は、N=5とし、その平均を捲縮率とする。
The above-mentioned crimp rate is measured as follows. After taking a skein of the false twist textured yarn with 5 windings using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, the skein is hung on a stand in a free state at room temperature for a day and a night. Next, the skein is put into boiling water with a load of 0.000147 cN/dtex applied, and is subjected to a wet heat treatment for 30 minutes. Then, the skein is taken out, the moisture is lightly removed with filter paper, and the skein is left in a free state at room temperature for 30 minutes. Then, a load of 0.000147 cN/dtex and 0.00177 cN/dex (light load) are applied to the skein, and the length X is measured. Next, while the load of 0.000147 cN/dtex is still applied, a load of 0.044 cN/dtex (heavy load) is applied instead of the light load, and the length Y is measured. Then, the crimp rate is calculated according to the following formula.
Crimp rate (%) = (Y-X)/Y x 100
The crimp rate is measured with N=5, and the average is taken as the crimp rate.

また、本発明の仮撚加工糸は、トルクが90~140T/Mであることが好ましく、中でも100~130T/Mであることが好ましい。トルクをこの範囲にすることで仮撚加工糸に過剰な絡みが生じず、織物を形成する際の工程通過時において、ビリやシボの発生が抑えられ、トラブルが生じることなく、品質のよい織物を操業性よく得ることができる。そして、本発明の仮撚加工糸はZ撚を有していることが好ましい。 The false twist textured yarn of the present invention preferably has a torque of 90 to 140 T/M, and more preferably 100 to 130 T/M. By setting the torque in this range, excessive tangling does not occur in the false twist textured yarn, and the occurrence of burrs and wrinkles is suppressed when passing through the process of forming a woven fabric, making it possible to obtain a high-quality woven fabric with good operability without causing any trouble. Furthermore, it is preferable that the false twist textured yarn of the present invention has a Z twist.

上記のトルクは以下のようにして測定するものである。仮撚加工糸に旋回しないように0.0294(cN/dtex)の荷重をかけ、試料長200cmを採取する。次に、採取した試料の両端間の距離を2cmにしてほぼ平行に把持し、中心部(100cmの所)に0.00294(cN/dtex)の荷重をかけてV字型とし、V字型下部をテンションフリーの状態とする。このとき、試料の残留トルクによる旋回が発生し、その旋回が静止するまで放置する。旋回が静止した後、その旋回数を検撚機にて測定し、この測定により得られた値をトルク数とする。 The above torque is measured as follows. A load of 0.0294 (cN/dtex) is applied to the false twist textured yarn to prevent it from turning, and a sample of 200 cm in length is taken. Next, the sample is held almost parallel with a distance of 2 cm between both ends, and a load of 0.00294 (cN/dtex) is applied to the center (100 cm away) to form a V-shape, leaving the lower part of the V-shape in a tension-free state. At this time, the sample turns due to the residual torque, and is left until the turning stops. After the turning stops, the number of turns is measured with a twist detector, and the value obtained from this measurement is the torque number.

次に、本発明の仮撚加工糸の製造方法について図2を用いて説明する。
本発明の仮撚加工糸は、ポリエステルフィラメントに仮撚加工を施すことにより得られるものであるが、仮撚加工に施すフィラメントとしては、ポリエステルの原料ポリマーを溶融紡糸した後、延伸、熱処理を施した延伸糸(FDY)、もしくは、溶融紡糸後、好ましくは紡速2000m/分~3500m/分の速度で巻き取った部分配向未延伸糸(POY)を使用することが好ましい。
Next, the method for producing false twist textured yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.
The false twist textured yarn of the present invention is obtained by subjecting polyester filaments to false twist texture. As the filaments to be false twist textured, it is preferable to use a drawn yarn (FDY) obtained by melt spinning a raw polyester polymer, followed by drawing and heat treatment, or a partially oriented undrawn yarn (POY) which is melt spun and then wound up, preferably at a spinning speed of 2000 m/min to 3500 m/min.

本発明においては、延伸糸(FDY)としては、伸度が20~40%のものが好ましく、部分配向未延伸糸(POY)としては、伸度が80~110%のものが好ましい。 In the present invention, the drawn yarn (FDY) preferably has an elongation of 20 to 40%, and the partially oriented undrawn yarn (POY) preferably has an elongation of 80 to 110%.

仮撚加工は、供給ローラ1と第1引取ローラ4の間に設けられた熱処理ヒータ2と仮撚付与装置3にて施される。
仮撚加工を施すフィラメントとして延伸糸を使用する場合には、延伸倍率0.90~1.20倍、好ましくは0.95~1.10倍の条件が挙げられ、高配向未延伸糸を使用する場合には、延伸倍率1.10~1.70倍、好ましくは1.20~1.50倍の条件が挙げられる。延伸糸を使用する場合には、延伸を施すことなく、仮撚オーバーフィード率を1.8~5.0%として仮撚加工することも好ましい。
The false twisting is performed by a heat treatment heater 2 and a false twist imparting device 3 provided between a supply roller 1 and a first take-up roller 4 .
When a drawn yarn is used as the filament to be false twisted, the draw ratio may be 0.90 to 1.20, preferably 0.95 to 1.10, and when a highly oriented undrawn yarn is used, the draw ratio may be 1.10 to 1.70, preferably 1.20 to 1.50. When a drawn yarn is used, it is also preferable to perform false twisting without drawing, with a false twist overfeed ratio of 1.8 to 5.0%.

なお、延伸倍率及び仮撚オーバーフィード率は、供給ローラ1と第1引取ローラ4のローラ速度の差にて調整するものであり、供給ローラ1よりも第1引取ローラ4の速度を早くする場合に延伸となり、供給ローラ1よりも第1引取ローラ4の速度を遅くする場合にオーバーフィードとなる。
オーバーフィード率は、仮撚付与装置3に導入される直前の糸速をV1、仮撚付与装置3を通過した直後の糸速をV2として、下記式にて算出される値である。つまり、図2においては、糸速V1は、供給ローラ1の速度であり、糸速V2は、第1引取ローラ4の速度である。
オーバーフィード率(%)={(V1-V2)/V2}×100
The stretch ratio and false twist overfeed rate are adjusted by the difference in roller speed between the supply roller 1 and the first take-up roller 4. When the speed of the first take-up roller 4 is faster than that of the supply roller 1, stretching occurs, and when the speed of the first take-up roller 4 is slower than that of the supply roller 1, overfeed occurs.
The overfeed rate is a value calculated by the following formula, where V1 is the yarn speed immediately before being introduced into the false twist imparting device 3, and V2 is the yarn speed immediately after passing through the false twist imparting device 3. That is, in Fig. 2, the yarn speed V1 is the speed of the supply roller 1, and the yarn speed V2 is the speed of the first take-up roller 4.
Overfeed rate (%) = {(V1 - V2) / V2} x 100

そして、仮撚数2000~5000T/M、好ましくは2200~4000T/M、熱処理ヒータ2の温度(仮撚温度)150~240℃、好ましくは170~230℃の条件で仮撚加工を施すことが好ましく、K値(解撚張力/加撚張力)は、1.5~3.0とすることが好ましい。 The false twist processing is preferably performed under conditions of a false twist number of 2000 to 5000 T/M, preferably 2200 to 4000 T/M, a heat treatment heater 2 temperature (false twist temperature) of 150 to 240°C, preferably 170 to 230°C, and a K value (untwisting tension/twisting tension) of 1.5 to 3.0.

得られる仮撚加工糸に、原糸の単繊維糸同士が融着した未解撚部を形成するには、中でも熱処理ヒータ温度を、原糸となるポリエステルフィラメントの軟化点以上、融点以下にすることが好ましく、熱処理ヒータ温度を調整することによって糸条の長手方向に解撚部と未解撚部が形成され、これらの長さや幅を調整することができる。 In order to form untwisted sections in the resulting false twist textured yarn where the single filament yarns of the raw yarn are fused together, it is preferable to set the heat treatment heater temperature above the softening point and below the melting point of the polyester filament that forms the raw yarn. By adjusting the heat treatment heater temperature, untwisted and untwisted sections are formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the length and width of these sections can be adjusted.

仮撚加工で使用される仮撚付与装置については、例えば、ピン、フリクションディスク、ベルト等が挙げられるが、中でもピンタイプが好ましい。 Examples of false twisting devices used in false twist processing include pins, friction disks, belts, etc., with pin types being preferred.

そして、供給ローラ1と第1引取ローラ4の間に設けられた熱処理ヒータ2と仮撚付与装置3にて仮撚が施された仮撚加工糸は、巻取ローラ5を経て巻き取られ、仮撚加工糸のパッケージ6を得る。 Then, the false twist textured yarn, which has been false twisted by the heat treatment heater 2 and false twist imparting device 3 provided between the supply roller 1 and the first take-up roller 4, is wound around the winding roller 5 to obtain a package 6 of false twist textured yarn.

上記のようにして得られた本発明の仮撚加工糸を用いて織物を得る際には、さらに追撚を行ってから製織工程に供することが好ましい。追撚は、仮撚加工糸がZ撚を有している場合、S撚にて200~400T/Mとすることが好ましい。 When the false twist textured yarn of the present invention obtained as described above is used to obtain a woven fabric, it is preferable to further twist the yarn before subjecting it to the weaving process. If the false twist textured yarn has a Z twist, the twist is preferably an S twist of 200 to 400 T/M.

本発明の仮撚加工糸を用いた織物としては、本発明の仮撚加工糸を経糸、緯糸のいずれか、もしくは両方に用いることができるが、中でも経糸に使用することが好ましい。そして、緯糸に使用することが好ましいものとしては、中でもポリエステル繊維と綿の混紡紡績糸(20~50番手)が挙げられる。このような緯糸は柔らかさと吸湿性を有し、経糸の麻ライクな風合いと十分なハリコシ感とが相まって、着心地の良い織物となる。
等が挙げられる。
In the case of fabrics using the false twist textured yarn of the present invention, the false twist textured yarn of the present invention can be used for either the warp or weft, or both, but it is preferable to use it for the warp. Among them, a blended spun yarn (20-50 count) of polyester fiber and cotton is preferable for use as the weft. Such a weft is soft and hygroscopic, and the linen-like texture of the warp and sufficient firmness combine to produce a woven fabric that is comfortable to wear.
etc.

そして、得られる織物の組織としては、特に限定されず、平織、綾織、朱子織等が挙げられ、必要に応じて多重組織としてもよい。中でも平織が好ましい。
また、カバーファクター(CF)は、特に限定されるものではないが1500~2600であることが好ましい。カバーファクター(CF)とは、織編物の粗密を数値化したものであり、以下の式により算出される。ここで、式中、Dは経糸の総繊度を示す。Eは緯糸の総繊度を示す。
CF=D1/2×経糸密度(本/2.54cm)+E1/2×緯糸密度(本/2.54cm)
The weave of the resulting woven fabric is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, etc., and may be a multi-layer weave if necessary. Among these, plain weave is preferred.
The cover factor (CF) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1500 to 2600. The cover factor (CF) is a numerical representation of the density of a woven or knitted fabric, and is calculated by the following formula: D=total fineness of warp yarns, E=total fineness of weft yarns.
CF = D 1/2 x warp density (pieces/2.54 cm) + E 1/2 x weft density (pieces/2.54 cm)

以下、本発明を実施例に従って更に詳細に説明する。実施例おける各種の特性値の測定方法、評価方法について示す。
(1)糸条長手方向の未解撚部の長さ、個数、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条幅方向の長さ
前記した方法により測定した。
(2)単繊維繊度、総繊度
JIS L1013 8.3.1に基づいて測定した。
(3)捲縮率、トルク
前記した方法により測定した。
The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. Methods for measuring and evaluating various property values in the examples will be described.
(1) Length and number of untwisted parts in the yarn longitudinal direction, and length of untwisted and untwisted parts in the yarn width direction. These were measured by the method described above.
(2) Single fiber fineness, total fineness Measured based on JIS L1013 8.3.1.
(3) Crimp rate and torque Measured by the methods described above.

(4)織物評価
得られた織物(染色反)のハリコシ感及びシャリ感を触感にて、染色時の品位を目視にて、下記の基準に従ってそれぞれ4段階で評価した。
<ハリコシ感>
◎:非常によい
○:良い
△:普通
×:悪い
<シャリ感(麻調なリネンタッチ)>
◎:非常によい
○:良い
△:普通
×:悪い
<染色時の品位(麻調杢感)>
◎:非常によい
○:良い
△:普通
×:悪い
(4) Fabric Evaluation The stiffness and crispness of the resulting fabric (dyed cloth) were evaluated by touch, and the quality of the dyed fabric was visually evaluated on a four-point scale according to the following criteria.
<Firmness and elasticity>
◎: Very good ○: Good △: Average ×: Bad <Crispy feel (hemp-like linen touch)>
◎: Very good ○: Good △: Average ×: Bad <Quality when dyed (linen-like grain)>
◎: Very good ○: Good △: Average ×: Bad

実施例1
供給糸として、伸度34%、単繊維繊度10.9dtex、単繊維の断面形状が4葉であるポリエステル延伸糸(109dtex/10フィラメント)を用いた。そして、図2に示す工程に従い、仮撚加工を施し、仮撚加工糸を得た。
このとき、仮撚付与装置3として、スピンドルピンタイプの装置を使用し、加工速度(第1ローラ速度);113.2m/分、仮撚温度(熱処理ヒータ温度);220℃、仮撚オーバーフィード率;3.92%、仮撚数;S撚、2557T/M、K値;2の条件で仮撚加工を行った。なお、加撚張力は、熱処理ヒータ2と仮撚付与装置3の間で測定したものであり、解撚張力は、仮撚付与装置3と第1引取ローラ4の間で測定したものである。
Example 1
The feed yarn was a polyester drawn yarn (109 dtex/10 filaments) having an elongation of 34%, a single fiber fineness of 10.9 dtex, and a cross-sectional shape of the single fiber being four lobes. False twisting was performed according to the steps shown in FIG. 2 to obtain a false twisted yarn.
At this time, a spindle pin type device was used as the false twist imparting device 3, and false twist processing was performed under the following conditions: processing speed (first roller speed): 113.2 m/min, false twist temperature (heat treatment heater temperature): 220° C., false twist overfeed rate: 3.92%, false twist number: S twist, 2557 T/M, K value: 2. The twisting tension was measured between the heat treatment heater 2 and the false twist imparting device 3, and the untwisting tension was measured between the false twist imparting device 3 and the first take-up roller 4.

得られた仮撚加工糸(117dtex/10フィラメント)は、未解撚部と解撚部を有した捲縮糸(捲縮率38.7%)であり、未解撚部と解撚部の長さ、幅、個数は表1に示すとおりのものであった。
この仮撚加工糸を追撚(S-300T/M)して経糸に用い、緯糸は30番手のポリエステル繊維と綿糸の混紡紡績糸を用いて、経糸密度84本/2.54cm、緯糸密度66本/2.54cmで平織物を製織した。
The resulting false twist textured yarn (117 dtex/10 filaments) was a crimped yarn (crimp rate 38.7%) having untwisted and untwisted portions, and the length, width and number of the untwisted and untwisted portions were as shown in Table 1.
This false twist textured yarn was further twisted (S-300T/M) and used as the warp yarn, and a blended spun yarn of 30 count polyester fiber and cotton yarn was used as the weft yarn to weave a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 84 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 66 threads/2.54 cm.

得られた織物を非イオン系界面活性剤(日華化学製サンモールFL)2g/lで80℃×20分で精練し、180℃×30分でプレセット処理をした。
次に、下記染色条件で、染色処理し、170℃で仕上げセットし、経糸密度87本/2.54cm、緯糸密度87本/2.54cm、カバーファクター1698の織物を得た。得られた織物は、ハリコシ感及びシャリ感に非常に優れており、麻調杢感のある染色品位も非常に優れていた。
(染色条件)
・染料:ダイアニックスブルーUN-SE(ダイアニックス社製) 1%o.m.f
・助剤:ニッカサンソルトSN-130(日華化学社製) 0.5g/L
:酢酸 0.2cc/L
・温度×時間:130℃×30分
・浴比:1:30
The resulting fabric was scoured with 2 g/l of a nonionic surfactant (Sunmol FL, manufactured by Nicca Chemical) at 80° C. for 20 minutes and pre-set at 180° C. for 30 minutes.
Next, the fabric was dyed under the following dyeing conditions and finished at 170° C. to obtain a fabric with a warp density of 87 threads/2.54 cm, a weft density of 87 threads/2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 1698. The fabric obtained was very excellent in firmness and crispness, and had excellent dyeing quality with a linen-like heathered feel.
(Dyeing conditions)
Dye: Dianix Blue UN-SE (manufactured by Dianix) 1% o.m.f
Auxiliary agent: Nikka Sunsalt SN-130 (manufactured by Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g/L
: Acetic acid 0.2cc/L
・Temperature x time: 130℃ x 30 minutes ・Bath ratio: 1:30

実施例2
供給糸として、伸度94%、単繊維繊度17.8dtex、糸断面形状が4葉であるポリエステル高配向未延伸糸(178dtex/10フィラメント)を用いた。そして、図2に示す工程に従い、仮撚加工を施し、仮撚加工糸を得た。
このとき、仮撚時に延伸を行い、仮撚加工条件を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様にして行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、ハリコシ感及びシャリ感が非常に優れており、麻調杢感のある染色品位も非常に優れていた。
Example 2
A highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn (178 dtex/10 filaments) having an elongation of 94%, a single fiber fineness of 17.8 dtex, and a cross-sectional shape of four lobes was used as the supply yarn. Then, false twisting was performed according to the process shown in FIG. 2 to obtain a false twisted yarn.
At this time, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out, except that drawing was carried out during false twisting and the false twisting conditions were changed to those shown in Table 1.
The properties of the resulting false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The resulting woven fabric had excellent stiffness and crispness, and also had excellent dyeing quality with a linen-like flecked look.

実施例3
実施例1と同じ供給糸を使用し、仮撚オーバーフィード率を2%に変更した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、仮撚加工を行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部A、B共に個数が好ましい範囲よりも少なかったため、この仮撚加工糸を用いて、得られた織物は、ハリコシ感、シャリ感、染色品位ともに良好であった。
Example 3
False twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the same supply yarn as in Example 1 was used and the false twist overfeed rate was changed to 2%.
The properties of the resulting false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The number of untwisted portions A and B in the resulting false twist textured yarn was less than the preferred range, and therefore the fabric obtained using this false twist textured yarn had good stiffness, crispness and dyeing quality.

実施例4
供給糸として、伸度32%、単繊維繊度5.4dtex、単繊維の断面形状が4葉であるポリエステル延伸糸(54dtex/10フィラメント)を用いた。そして、図2に示す工程に従い、仮撚温度を180℃に変更した以外は、実施例1と同様にして仮撚加工を行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、ハリコシ感、シャリ感、染色品位ともに良好であった。
Example 4
The supply yarn was a polyester drawn yarn (54 dtex/10 filaments) having an elongation of 32%, a single fiber fineness of 5.4 dtex, and a cross-sectional shape of the single fiber being four-lobed. False twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the false twisting temperature was changed to 180° C., according to the process shown in FIG.
The properties of the resulting false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The resulting woven fabric had good stiffness, crispness and dyeing quality.

実施例5
実施例2と同じ供給糸を使用し、仮撚付与装置において解撚張力と加撚張力を表1に示す値に変更した以外は、実施例2と同様にして、仮撚加工を行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、実施例2と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、ハリコシ感、シャリ感、染色品位ともに良好であった。
Example 5
The same supply yarn as in Example 2 was used, and false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the untwisting tension and twisting tension in the false twist imparting device were changed to the values shown in Table 1.
The properties of the resulting false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was then woven in the same manner as in Example 2 to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The resulting woven fabric had good stiffness, crispness and dyeing quality.

比較例1
実施例1と同じ供給糸を使用し、図3に示す工程に従い、仮撚時に延伸を行い、かつ仮撚付与装置3と第1引取ローラ4との間に設けた第2熱処理ヒータ7で熱処理を行い、仮撚加工条件を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様にして行った。なお、表1に示す熱処理オーバーフィード率は、第1引取ローラ4と第2引取ローラ8の速度により算出するものである。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。得られた仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部と解撚部を有しておらず、トルクも有していない平端な糸となった。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、剛直でハリコシ感、シャリ感に劣るものであった。
Comparative Example 1
The same procedure as in Example 1 was repeated, except that the same supply yarn as in Example 1 was used, drawing was performed during false twisting according to the process shown in Fig. 3, heat treatment was performed with the second heat treatment heater 7 provided between the false twist imparting device 3 and the first take-up roller 4, and the false twist processing conditions were changed to those shown in Table 1. The heat treatment overfeed rate shown in Table 1 is calculated from the speeds of the first take-up roller 4 and the second take-up roller 8.
The property values of the false twist textured yarn obtained are shown in Table 1. The false twist textured yarn obtained was a flat yarn having no untwisted or untwisted parts and no torque.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The resulting woven fabric was stiff and had poor stiffness and crispness.

比較例2
実施例1と同じ供給糸を使用し、仮撚温度を250℃に変更した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、仮撚加工を行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。得られた仮撚加工糸は、単繊維同士が融着し、未解撚部と解撚部を有しておらず、捲縮、トルクともに有していない平端な糸となった。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、剛直でハリコシ感、シャリ感、染色品位の全てに劣るものであった。
Comparative Example 2
The same supply yarn as in Example 1 was used, and false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the false twisting temperature was changed to 250°C.
The property values of the obtained false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1. In the obtained false twist textured yarn, the single fibers were fused to each other, and it was a flat yarn having no untwisted or untwisted parts and having neither crimp nor torque.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The resulting woven fabric was stiff and inferior in all respects, including stiffness, crispness and dyeing quality.

比較例3
実施例1と同じ供給糸を使用し、仮撚加工を施し、仮撚加工糸を得た。
このとき、仮撚時に延伸を行い、仮撚加工条件を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様にして行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。得られた仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部を有していないものであった。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、仮撚加工糸が未解撚部を有していないため、生地の表面感及び触感も異なる物となり、ハリコシ感、シャリ感、染色品位全てに劣るものであった。
Comparative Example 3
The same supply yarn as in Example 1 was used and false twisted to obtain a false twist textured yarn.
At this time, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out, except that drawing was carried out during false twisting and the false twisting conditions were changed to those shown in Table 1.
The property values of the resulting false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1. The resulting false twist textured yarn had no untwisted parts.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The obtained woven fabric had a different surface feel and texture than the false twisted yarn because the false twisted yarn did not have any untwisted parts, and was inferior in all respects, including stiffness, crispness, and dyeing quality.

比較例4
実施例2と同じ供給糸を使用し、仮撚延伸倍率を1.55に変更し、解撚、加撚張力を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例2と同様にして仮撚加工を行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。得られた仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部Aのみを有し、かつ数が少ないものであった。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、ハリコシ感、シャリ感に劣るものであった。
Comparative Example 4
The same false twisting process as in Example 2 was carried out using the same supply yarn as in Example 2, except that the false twist draw ratio was changed to 1.55 and the untwisting and twisting tensions were changed to those shown in Table 1.
The property values of the resulting false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1. The resulting false twist textured yarn only had untwisted parts A, and the number of these was small.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The resulting woven fabric was inferior in stiffness and crispness.

比較例5
実施例2と同じ供給糸を使用し、仮撚温度を190℃に変更した以外は、比較例4と同様にして仮撚加工を行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。得られた仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部Aのみを有し、かつ数が少ないものであった。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、ハリコシ感、シャリ感に劣るものであった。
Comparative Example 5
The same supply yarn as in Example 2 was used, and false twisting was carried out in the same manner as in Comparative Example 4, except that the false twisting temperature was changed to 190°C.
The property values of the resulting false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1. The resulting false twist textured yarn only had untwisted parts A, and the number of these was small.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The resulting woven fabric was inferior in stiffness and crispness.

比較例6
実施例2と同じ供給糸を使用し、仮撚温度を240℃、仮撚延伸倍率を1.35に変更し、解撚、加撚張力を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例2と同様にして仮撚加工を行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。得られた仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部A、Bの個数が多いものであった。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、仮撚温度が高いため、剛直になりすぎハリコシ感、シャリ感が悪く、染色品位にも劣るものであった。
Comparative Example 6
The same supply yarn as in Example 2 was used, and false twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the false twisting temperature was changed to 240° C., the false twisting draw ratio was changed to 1.35, and the untwisting and twisting tensions were changed to those shown in Table 1.
The property values of the resulting false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1. The resulting false twist textured yarn had a large number of untwisted portions A and B.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The resulting woven fabric was too stiff due to the high false twist temperature, and had poor stiffness and crispness, and was also inferior in dyeing quality.

比較例7
実施例2と同じ供給糸を使用し、仮撚数、解撚、加撚張力を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例2と同様にして仮撚加工を行った。
得られた仮撚加工糸の特性値を表1に示す。得られた仮撚加工糸は、解撚部が開繊しており、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条幅方向の長さの比が大きいものとなった。
そして、得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて、経糸密度、緯糸密度を表1に示すものに変更した以外は、実施例1と同様に製織し、平織物を得た。
続いて、得られた平織物に実施例1と同様の精練、染色加工を施し、織物を得た。
得られた織物は、ハリコシ感、シャリ感、染色品位の全てに劣るものであった。
Comparative Example 7
The same false twisting process as in Example 2 was carried out using the same supply yarn as in Example 2, except that the false twist number, untwisting and twisting tension were changed to those shown in Table 1.
The property values of the obtained false twist textured yarn are shown in Table 1. The obtained false twist textured yarn had an open untwisted portion and a large ratio of the length of the untwisted portion to the length of the untwisted portion in the yarn width direction.
The false twist textured yarn thus obtained was used to weave in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density and weft density were changed to those shown in Table 1, to obtain a plain weave fabric.
The resulting plain weave fabric was then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing processes as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
The resulting woven fabric was inferior in all respects, including stiffness, crispness and dyeing quality.

1 供給ローラ
2 熱処理ヒータ
3 仮撚付与装置
4 第1引取ローラ
5 巻取ローラ
6 仮撚糸のパッケージ
7 第2熱処理ヒータ
8 第2引取ローラ
1 Supply roller
2 Heat treatment heater 3 False twist imparting device 4 First take-up roller 5 Winding roller 6 Package of false twisted yarn 7 Second heat treatment heater 8 Second take-up roller

Claims (4)

ポリエステルフィラメントからなり、糸条長手方向に未解撚部と解撚部が交互に存在する仮撚加工糸であって、糸条長手方向に長さが0.3~12mmである未解撚部を、糸条1mあたり40~110個有し、未解撚部と解撚部の糸条幅方向の長さの比(未解撚部/解撚部)が1/~1/14である仮撚加工糸。 The false twist textured yarn is made of polyester filaments and has untwisted and untwisted sections alternately present in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the false twist textured yarn having 40 to 110 untwisted sections each having a length of 0.3 to 12 mm in the longitudinal direction of the yarn per meter of the yarn, and a length ratio of the untwisted sections to the untwisted sections in the width direction of the yarn (untwisted sections/untwisted sections) of 1/3 to 1/14. 未解撚部として、長さが0.3~3mm未満の未解撚部Aと長さが3~12mmの未解撚部Bを有し、未解撚部Aを、糸条1mあたりに30~85個有し、未解撚部Bを、糸条1mあたりに3~25個有する、請求項1に記載の仮撚加工糸。 The false twisted yarn according to claim 1, which has as the untwisted portions untwisted portion A having a length of 0.3 to less than 3 mm and untwisted portion B having a length of 3 to 12 mm, and has 30 to 85 untwisted portions A per 1 m of yarn and 3 to 25 untwisted portions B per 1 m of yarn. 糸条1mあたりの未解撚部の総長さと前記糸条1mあたりの解撚部の総長さの比が、未解撚部の総長さ/解撚部の総長さ=1/3~1/10である請求項1又は2に記載の仮撚加工糸。 The false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2, in which the ratio of the total length of the untwisted parts per meter of yarn to the total length of the untwisted parts per meter of said yarn is 1/3 to 1/10 (total length of untwisted parts/total length of untwisted parts). 仮撚加工糸を構成する単繊維は、単繊維繊度が5~20dtexであり、繊維長手方向に対して垂直な断面が凸部を3~8個有する多葉形状である請求項1~3のいずれかに記載の仮撚加工糸。
4. The false twist textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein the single fibers constituting the false twist textured yarn have a single fiber fineness of 5 to 20 dtex, and a cross section perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the fiber has a multi-lobal shape having 3 to 8 convex portions.
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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2013181250A (en) 2012-02-29 2013-09-12 Toray Ind Inc Polyester fused and drawn false twisted yarn
JP2020063542A (en) 2018-10-19 2020-04-23 東レ株式会社 Fused drawn false twisted yarn
JP2020070508A (en) 2018-10-30 2020-05-07 東レ株式会社 Modified cross-section polyester partially fused false-twisted yarn

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS59211650A (en) * 1983-05-13 1984-11-30 ユニチカ株式会社 Production of slub-like fabric
JPS6215343A (en) * 1985-07-10 1987-01-23 ユニチカ株式会社 Production of untwisted processed yarn

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2013181250A (en) 2012-02-29 2013-09-12 Toray Ind Inc Polyester fused and drawn false twisted yarn
JP2020063542A (en) 2018-10-19 2020-04-23 東レ株式会社 Fused drawn false twisted yarn
JP2020070508A (en) 2018-10-30 2020-05-07 東レ株式会社 Modified cross-section polyester partially fused false-twisted yarn

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