JPS5947054B2 - Manufacturing method for patterned fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention is a method for manufacturing a patterned fabric mainly using jacquard, in which a pattern is produced by appropriately adjusting the way the radiation is raised by adjusting the density and density of the stitching of the radiation. It is related to.

Normally, the way to give a three-dimensional effect to textiles is to bind the weft threads roughly and make them stand out.
...Especially in the case of a double weft texture, there is a method in which the surface and back textures are made separate and the back texture is shrunk by scouring or heat treatment, such as in the case of an air texture, and a method in which the back texture is shrunk by scouring or heat treatment, such as in the twill weave. Conventionally, a method has been used in which the lines are raised to the back side to swell the surface texture such as the plain texture or twill texture on the front surface.

However, these conventional methods have not been able to provide a sufficient three-dimensional effect to the pattern of the fabric.

In other words, if the binding of the weft threads is made coarser, the binding will simply become sharper, and if the front and back tissues are separated and the back tissue is shrunk, the front tissue will be folded or folded. There are drawbacks such as dye accumulation during the dyeing stage.

In addition, when hard-twisted or heat-shrinkable ground wire is shrunk by scouring or heat treatment, the disadvantage is that if a large amount of this structure is used to lift the ground wire to the back, the fabric will not be firm and will have a fluffy texture. be.

The object of the present invention is to eliminate the above-mentioned drawbacks and to provide a method for producing a patterned fabric with an elegant and substantial three-dimensional effect in a very simple manner.

The present invention does not utilize the shrinkage of highly twisted yarns due to scouring or the heat shrinkage of heat-shrinkable yarns as in the past, but utilizes the difference in shrinkage of the warp yarns due to the difference in texture to raise the pattern. This is a great method.

According to the method of the present invention, the patterned warp yarns are warped into the same beam as the warp yarns that undergo weaving contraction, that is, the ground warp yarns or the separate galami yarns, in order to take advantage of the difference in the weaving shrinkage of the warp yarns.

For the texture of the ground warp yarns or the separate galami yarns arranged in the same beam as the light emission, a texture with large weave shrinkage, for example, a plain weave, is appropriately selected.

The Hikari is stitched with rough weft stitches to create a floating, bulging, three-dimensional effect.

The pattern is then created by adjusting the way the radiant embossed depending on the density and density of how the radiant is bound.

In addition, after machine washing, the karami thread referred to here is a thread used to perform the so-called ``pudding'', ``spelling'', or ``pressing'', which involves organizing the fukiwata with the warp, in a separate manner. Similarly, the term "shime weft" refers to the weft threads that hold down the floating warp threads.

The present invention will be described in detail below based on the drawings.

Luminescent yarns 1 and ground yarns 2 are alternately arranged in one winding warp, and Karami yarn 3 is warped as a separate warp.

Warping is facilitated by alternating the arrangement of the light emitting and ground warp yarns, but there is no particular need for such arrangement.

There may be more luminescence than warp threads, or vice versa.

The ground warp threads 2 and the light emitting threads 1 are threaded through heddles suspended from the jacquard, and the karami threads 3 are threaded into a plain heddle provided on the front side of the fabric rather than the heddles.

The ground warp threads may be placed in a plain heddle provided separately from the plain heddle into which the karami threads are inserted.

Conversely, the kalami thread may be inserted into a so-called crest heddle suspended by a thread.

You will need at least one plain heddle frame to hold the karami threads, and at least two plain heddle frames to hold the ground threads.

Since it is so complicated, the more detailed the changes in the handle raising, the more advantageous is the mechanism of thread grip fishing.

Next, the weft yarns weaving with these warp yarns are composed of a weft yarn 4 and a ground weft yarn 5.

The ground weft 5 and the weft weft 4 are weaved alternately in single balls, alternately in double rows, or alternately in double rows.

In the illustrated example, each ball is alternated. The structure of the ground warp 2 and the ground weft 5 is a flat structure or a Kumoi structure as shown in Fig. 1.
Select a material such as a 1/2 twill weave that has a large weave shrinkage of the warp threads.

The weft thread 4 has the role of binding the light emitting thread 1, and at the same time, the weft thread 3
is woven with the Karami yarn 3 so that it becomes the base for the bulge of the light emitting 1, that is, the raised part.

In other words, in the case of a weaving surface, it is desirable that all of the kalami threads be pulled up at the opening where the weft threads cross.

If all the Karami threads are pulled up at the ends of the seam wefts, they all become lower ends at the ends of the ground wefts, and serve the role of joining the seam wefts 4, which are organized into the radiance 1, and the ground wefts 5, which are organized into the ground warps 2. (See Figure 4).

The light release may be woven with the ground weft in the plain area A so that it appears on the back side.

In the embodiment shown in FIG. 3, the number of threads of the color thread 3 is 1/2 of the number of threads of the light emitting part 1.

However, it is not necessary to limit the number of threads of the textured loose threads 3 to a specific ratio such as 1/2 or 1/3 of the thread number of the light-emitting threads 1 or the ground threads 2.

Also, the lifting of the luminescence, that is, the unstructured part with the seam weft,
If the fabric is long or the raised area is wide, the three-dimensional effect will be reduced, so a binding like the five-ply satin fabric is added to the weft and weft to adjust the bulge.

In order to make full use of the three-dimensional effect, it is appropriate that the length of the floating light be up to about 6 mm (approximately 7 to 8 mm) in the weft.

In addition, the warp is generally 21/medium to 21/medium x 2 various to 2
1/medium x 4 different threads are used, and the weft is 21/medium x
6 to 21/medium x 10 types are used.

In the case of the present invention, the pattern warp is thicker than usual, for example 21
/Medium x 8 lines will give a sufficient three-dimensional effect.

The organization chart shown in Figure 3 is one of the combinations to create a flat texture as shown in Figure 1 on the back and a pattern as shown in Figure 2 on the front.
This is an example.

The light weft 1 and ground thread 2 are alternately arranged, the collar yarn 3 is 1/2 the number of light threads, and the ground weft 5 and shim weft 4 are alternately knitted.

In FIG. 3, A represents a plain area, and B represents a patterned area.

In the above description of the embodiment, the case where the light beam and the ground warp are warped into the same beam has been described, but the same effect can be achieved even if the light beam and the ground warp are warped in the same beam and the ground warp is warped into a separate beam. It is.

According to the method of the present invention, there is no need to perform scouring or heat treatment to create a three-dimensional effect as in the conventional method.

By simply warping the emitted light into the same beam as the ground warp yarn or the separate galami yarn, it is possible to obtain a patterned fabric that is sufficiently bulgy and has a large three-dimensional effect.

In addition, the present invention utilizes the difference in light emission and weaving shrinkage of the ground warp,
Any type of yarn can be used (not limited to highly twisted yarn or heat-shrinkable yarn) since it gives a three-dimensional effect in its structure.

Furthermore, the difference in weaving shrinkage between the ground warp and the shihō makes the shihō stand out and swell, so compared to conventional weft yarns that are simply stitched roughly, the crest has a larger bulge and is fully three-dimensional. You can obtain a textured fabric.

By changing the binding method of the emitted light using the weft threads, patterns with various degrees of bulge are formed, and by appropriately combining these patterns, it is possible to create any desired pattern.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is one of the back texture diagrams used in the method of the present invention and shows a flat texture. FIG. 2 is an example of a tissue diagram of a tendril pattern expressed by the method of the present invention. FIG. 3 is an example of a tissue chart in which the back side has a flat structure as shown in FIG. 1, and the front side shows the drawing shown in FIG. 2. FIG. 4 is a diagram showing the arrangement of threads at section 0 in FIG. 3. 1...Light emission, 2...Ground warp, 3...
... Karami thread, 4... Shime weft, 5...
・Ground weft.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. When weaving using a double-wound warp, the ground warp threads and the kalami threads are warped into separate beams, and the light is arranged on the same beam as either the ground warp thread or the kalami thread. The pattern is formed by binding the light into a pattern with a weft, and the ground warp or karami yarn is placed in the same beam as the light, so that the weaving shrinkage is larger compared to the light. The ground weft is woven with the ground weft, the radiant weft is woven with the seam weft to form a shibori pattern, and the Karami thread is woven with the shim weft and the ground weft to form a connective tissue. A method for producing patterned textiles characterized by creating a shibori pattern through swelling.