JPS5949339B2 - Method for manufacturing heathered bulky knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a heathered knitted fabric with excellent volume and resilience, which is made of a composite yarn composed of two types of thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament false twisted yarns having discoloration properties. .

Conventionally, various heathered knitted fabrics have been proposed that use yarns obtained by twisting or mixing yarns with different dyeability (e.g., using electro-spreading method, fluid jetting, etc.). The former method has drawbacks such as difficulty in producing a product with a voluminous feel due to the yarn structure, and the latter method requires complicated equipment, increases cost, and requires complicated manufacturing methods.

The present invention eliminates the drawbacks of the prior art and proposes a method for producing a knitted fabric that has excellent volume and resilience as well as heathering effect.

The present inventors have already proposed a composite yarn related to the present invention (Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 50-4348), but since then, we have further proposed a composite yarn with the aim of improving blendability, operability, stability of quality, etc. As a result of careful research, we found specific conditions that greatly improve the blending properties of composite yarns, and by dividing the contraction of the yarn into two stages, one during yarn processing and one after it is made into fabric, we were able to improve the porium feel and repulsion. The present inventors have now completed the present invention by discovering that they can obtain knitted fabrics with extremely good properties, and that product quality and workability are also greatly improved.

That is, the present invention has the following configuration.

A crimped yarn A made by imparting a normal number of false twists to a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, and another thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn having a different dyeability from A with a false twist direction of A. The crimped yarn B, which is different from A and has been false-twisted by 35 to 65 degrees of the false twist of A, is twisted with a twist number ('r wt ) of 100 T/M or less, and the yarns A and B are Tension is formula % Formula % Combined twist yarn feeding tension of A and B is 0.1 to 1.59/d, respectively.
) Composite yarn having a crimp shrinkage rate of 15 to 40% by being twisted and twisted in a manner that satisfies This is a method for producing a heathered bulky knitted fabric, which is characterized in that the composite yarn is used as the warp and weft as appropriate for knitting and weaving, and then the vagina composite yarn is contracted by 10 times or more.

The normal number of false twists mentioned here is the thickness of the yarn to be processed, 10'T.
/M・・・・・・(1) (However, D=nibnyl α=1~
1.3) refers to the number of false twists expressed by It is well known that as the number decreases, the torque increases, the crimp becomes coarser, and the yarn loses bulk.

In addition, yarns with different crimpability or fineness can be twisted together,
It is already known that fuji twist occurs when the tensions of the yarns differ during plying.

The present invention skillfully utilizes the advantages and disadvantages of the prior art under specific conditions, that is, yarns with different crimpability are supplied under specific conditions, and the fuji twist generated by plying and relaxing heat treatment of the plied twisted yarns is achieved. By reducing the degree of crimping, the fine crimps of the high-stretch crimped yarn and the coarse crimps of the low-stretch crimped yarn are intertwined to create a composite yarn, and this combined effect increases the blending properties and gives a sense of volume and resilience. is also added to the product.

Furthermore, the features and effects of the present invention will be explained in detail below.

■ The present invention has a highly elastic crimped yarn A that has fine crimps, has high crimp development, and is stiff, and a low elasticity crimped yarn that has coarse crimps, has low crimp development, and is flexible. The synergistic effect with the yarn B adds volume and resilience, and as the highly elastic crimped yarn A, a crimped yarn that has been falsely twisted with the number of false twists in formula (1) above is used. -For the low-stretch crimped yarn B, a crimped yarn false-twisted with a false twist number of 35 to 65% of the yarn A is used.

■ The false twisting directions of the yarns A and B are different (the direction of the torque force is different), and as a result, the torques of both yarns cancel each other out, resulting in a composite yarn with less torque and no graining. A knitted fabric with a clean surface can be obtained.

■ The degree of twisting can be reduced by performing the combination twisting under the following specific conditions.

In addition, processability is improved and stable production is possible.

2.0<TB/TA 4.5 [However, TA and TB are the combined twist feeding tensions of yarns A and B, each being 0.1 to 1.5 g/d) The inventors have determined that the above T B /T As a result of an experiment on the relationship between A and the fuji twist form of the yarn after relaxation heat treatment,
When TB/T is 1, a Fuji twist is formed with a high elasticity crimped yarn as the core and a low elasticity crimped yarn as the twine, and as TB/TA decreases, the degree of Fuji twist becomes remarkable. .

-As the force TB/TA increases, the twist becomes mild, and although this varies depending on the crimp characteristics of both the A and B yarns used, the relaxation heat treatment conditions, etc., the core yarn and the twine yarn eventually reach opposite points,
That is, a fuji twist is formed in which the low elasticity crimped yarn is the core and the high elasticity crimped yarn is the twine, and thereafter the degree of fuji twist becomes remarkable.

The present invention reduces the degree of Fuji twist to enhance the fiber blending effect, and the yarn A(!:B) has a yarn feeding tension of 2.0<TB/TA≦4.5 for the above-mentioned reason. Do it inside.

Furthermore, in the method of the present invention, T B′lJ30.1 g/
When passing below d, single filaments or multifilaments bundle together to form a snarl, which causes deterioration in operability.

Moreover, if it exceeds 1,5&/d, the crimp will become sagging, causing a reduction in bulkiness.

The occurrence of snarls in the process is strongly related to yarn speed,
The faster the yarn speed is, the less Nunar will occur, but there is a limit to the spindle rotation speed (currently, the twisting machine is at most 12.00 O
r pm), therefore it is desirable to reduce the number of twists in order to prevent the snarl.

In general, various anti-tangle devices are widely used as a method to prevent snarling, but in this case, the yarn feeding tension fluctuates greatly, which induces irregularities in the shape of the composite yarn for the reasons mentioned above, which can lead to a decline in quality. Therefore, it is unsuitable for the method of the present invention.

The number of twists is set to 100 T/M or less in order to effectively develop crimp after the relaxation heat treatment, and in relation to the next heating for the purpose of stabilizing the quality. This also improves operability.

(2) The quality is further improved by further twisting after twisting, but in this case, as the number of twists increases, the development of crimp after the relaxation heat treatment is inhibited, and the feeling of volume is no longer produced.

Accordingly, the twist is approximately TWl T/M.

In addition, in order to increase the effect of developing curling, the above-mentioned combination twist should be increased by 0.2
The heating is carried out under a tension of 0.15.9/d or more.
It is preferable to perform the relaxation heat treatment continuously under the following low tension.

For this purpose, it is effective to use an up twister that can perform heating at a relatively low tension and can perform heating and relaxation heat treatment continuously.

(2) The most important point is to form a composite yarn having a crimp shrinkage ratio of 15 to 40 through relaxation heat treatment, and to shrink the composite yarn to 10 or more threads after knitting and weaving.

In other words, the yarn is shrunk in two stages: during yarn processing and after fabrication.■ The yarn is relatively uneven before weaving, and the unevenness is developed after weaving, making it easy to handle the yarn. Extremely good weaving properties.

◎The yarn can be sufficiently crimped without impairing the quality of the yarn.

It has the effect of producing a product of stable quality with no spots.

The crimp shrinkage rate is a guideline for the amount of yarn shrinkage after being made into a fabric, and if the crimp shrinkage rate exceeds 40%, the amount of shrinkage in the knitted fabric is too thick, so the structure and density It is difficult to sufficiently crimp the yarn due to restrictions such as these.

-If the force is below 15, the overfeed rate is too high,
Since it requires high-temperature relaxation heat treatment, it has drawbacks in terms of operability and quality.

'As a result of various studies on the relaxation heat treatment method, the present inventors found that it is best to set the overfeed rate to 20% or less, preferably in the range of 15 to 20%, and to raise the temperature within a range that does not cause the yarn to sag. I have found that good results can be obtained.

In other words, if the overfeed rate increases, it is necessary to raise the temperature at least enough to prevent the yarn from sagging, which not only deteriorates the stability of the yarn quality but also causes the yarn to become noticeably uneven, resulting in poor yarn unwinding properties. It was found that the weaving properties deteriorated.

However, if the method of the present invention is followed, these drawbacks will be overcome,
A knitted fabric with extremely good volume and resilience can be produced without any operational problems.

In the force method for measuring the crimp shrinkage rate, first, a load of 2 to /d per indicated denier is applied to the sample, and the length l is measured.

Next, after removing a load of 2 rn9/d, the sample was treated with boiling water for 30 minutes, taken out on tear paper, air-dried, and after drying, a load of 2rn9/d per indicated denier was applied, and the length 11 was measured. It was calculated using the following formula.

Note that the two types of thermoplastic fibers with different dyeability used in the present invention may not only have different color combinations, but also have the same color shading (for example, when the fiber physical properties, glossiness, fineness, cross-sectional shape, etc. are different). It also includes.

Next, the method of the present invention will be explained in detail by way of examples.
The present invention is not limited to these examples.

Example 1 A 50d/24f cationic dyeable polyester yarn and a 100d/24f polyester yarn were false-twisted and crimped using a commercially available false-twisting machine under the conditions shown in Table 1.

Stretching and elongation rate of the above false twisted yarn (measured by JIS synthetic fiber filament bulky yarn L1090, 5.7 elasticity C method)
50d/24f is 98%, 100d/24f is 53%
Met.

Next, the yarn feeding tension is increased to 50% using a heating machine (ring twisting machine).
d is 10-13g, 100d is 60-65p, number of twists is 5
4.Continuously perform heating = relaxation heat treatment on the twisted hindlimb twisted yarn under the conditions of 2 ZT/M using a ratty processing machine under the conditions of heating number 98 ZT/M, overfeed rate 181%, and heater temperature 190 ° C. A composite yarn with extremely good workability and stable quality was obtained.

The crimp shrinkage rate of the composite yarn was 25 factors.

After knitting a knitted fabric with a structure of Motsukuro Day using the composite yarn, relax scouring (70°C, 30 minutes), intermediate setting and (
170℃, 30 seconds, tensile rate o'% (width rate 5), dyeing (120℃, 60 minutes), finishing set (160℃
, 30 seconds, tension ratio 0, width ratio 3).

Each condition from relaxation heat treatment to finishing setting was pretested and set so that the yarn would shrink by 20% during the dyeing process.

The thus obtained product had no heather spots, exhibited a vague heather shape, was soft to the touch, and had a spun-like feel with excellent volume and resilience.

Example 2 Nylon 70 d/24 f and polyester 150
A composite yarn was produced using d/72f under the conditions shown in Table 2.

The stretch rate of the polyester 150d/72f crimped yarn is 110%, and that of nylon 70d/24f is 30%.
The crimp shrinkage rate of the obtained composite yarn was 36%.

After weaving, the composite yarn is used for the warp and weft yarns with a matte texture, and then the composite yarn is shrunk by 15% through relaxing scouring, intermediate setting, dyeing, and finishing setting to create a heathered yarn with excellent volume and a soft texture. I obtained a textured fabric.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A crimped yarn A made by giving normal false twist to a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, and another thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn having a different dyeability from A. A crimped yarn B with a false twist direction different from that of A and a false twist of 35 to 65 of the false twist number of A is made into a yarn with a twist number (TW, ) of 100 T/M or less. The tension between A and B is expressed by the formula 2.0 <T
Di, DB: are yarn A so as to satisfy B/TA≦4.5 (TA and TB are 0.1 to 1.5 g/d respectively at the combined twist feeding tension of yarns A and B) , indicates the fineness of B) T
/M or less, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment to obtain a composite yarn having a crimp shrinkage rate of 15 to 40. Next, the composite yarn is used appropriately for warp and weft for weaving, knitting, and weaving. A method for producing a heathered bulk-knitted fabric, characterized in that the hindlimb composite yarn is contracted by 10 folds or more. 2. The method for producing a heathered bulky knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the relaxation heat treatment is performed at an overfeed rate of 20 or less.