JPS6025531B2 - Manufacturing method for twist-free and glue-free fabrics - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for weaving warp yarns made of interlaced thermoplastic multifilaments with virtually no slippage, and to solve the drawbacks caused by "unevenness in single yarn entanglement" and "
The present invention relates to a weaving method for obtaining high-quality fabrics free from defects caused by "iracchi".

Conventionally, when manufacturing textiles using synthetic multifilament fibers for clothing, a method has been adopted in which the warp yarns are given a stiffness and texture to prevent the generation of fuzz during weaving.

These welding and gluing steps are unavoidable in terms of weaving efficiency, and it has been the desire of the industry to omit them from the viewpoint of reducing the required cost. Hakama Kosho 37-117 is an effective means to replace the effect of Nori Nori.
It is conceivable to use so-called interlaced yarn, which has been air-treated to create intertwining between the single yarns of the yarn, as the warp yarn, as disclosed in Japanese Patent No. 5, and to weave the yarn in a seamless manner. By performing such interlacing processing, the range in which weaving is possible without any weaving or weaving can be expanded in terms of applicable single yarn grade, fabric density, etc., and the weaving preparation process can be streamlined to cover more fabric types. Furthermore, the scouring and dyeing process can be simplified by omitting the glue removal process, which has a great effect. However, woven fabrics woven using non-bulky interlaced yarns as warp yarns, without any lamination, have the defect of "uneven gloss" in minute units in the warp direction, which significantly reduces the quality of the fabric. . The inventors have proposed this “
In order to eliminate the "uneven gloss" defect, we first conducted intensive research into the causes of its occurrence, and the following facts were discovered.In other words, there are two different causes of this "uneven gloss." Part 1: One is due to the structural characteristics of interlaced yarns, and is a defect called ``single yarn entanglement unevenness J''. Because the eastern parts exist alternately, this difference in yarn form remains even after the fabric is constructed, causing uneven luster.The other reason is that the fabric is made of plain fabric, regardless of whether or not it is interlaced. Multifilament composition of the warp yarns formed.As the arrangement of the single yarns changes, warp yarns with different degrees of flatness coexist, giving different bends to the horizontal yarns that intersect with each warp yarn. This is a so-called "ilakki" defect in which the difference in the bending of the horizontal yarn causes uneven gloss of the fabric. This drawback is that the yarn generally has high strength and elongation, is tough and has the potential to withstand no-gluing, and is usually circular in cross section and glossy, so the geometric structure of the yarn tends to be sensitive to gloss characteristics. As a result of the emergence of synthetic fibers with specific properties, this problem will only come to the fore when it becomes possible to weave it in a seamless manner, but so far there have been no concrete proposals regarding its content and countermeasures. Not published. On the other hand, as another known example, a method has been proposed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 49-132371, but this method actively applies squeezing, kneading, vibration, beating, etc. to filaments or textiles, and Although it has excellent blinding processability and non-air permeability, it has the disadvantage of being thin and lacking in versatility. The present inventors have aimed to improve such defects and provide a general-purpose clothing fabric, and to clarify the physical mechanism of occurrence of the above-mentioned "irratsuki" defect, as well as to eliminate "single yarn intertwining unevenness" and "irratsuki". We propose a method for manufacturing a non-stick fabric that solves both drawbacks at the same time.

The present invention relates to a manufacturing method that provides a smooth fabric of excellent quality without the drawbacks of "unevenness in single yarn entanglement" and "ilakki".
It is characterized by having the following configuration. In other words, the present invention provides a yarn made of interlaced thermoplastic fiber multifilament having a single filament weave of less than 5 deniers, which has a CF value of 10 to 100 in the raw yarn state, and has a CF value in the gray fabric. Used as a warp yarn whose value can be reduced to 10 or less, and the single yarn diameter d of the warp yarn (willow)
y, the number of warp single threads f (pieces), and the warp spacing x (side)
satisfies the following relational expression, and so that 80% or more of the warp single yarns in the thickness direction of the fabric are arranged in three stages,
A method for producing a non-woven fabric, characterized by weaving a plain weave fabric with substantially no fabric and no glue.

0.40.283≦y≦0.20.404.

Here, the term "substantially free of yarn" may have a raw yarn yarn of about 50 T/m or less, and in short, it means that the yarn is not particularly woven before weaving. The present invention will be explained in detail below. First, we will discuss how to solve the problem of "unevenness in single yarn entanglement" caused by the difference in yarn form between the concentrated and non-concentrated sections. Table 1 was obtained as a result of an experiment to determine the relationship between the raw yarn CF value of the interlaced yarn, the CF value of the biodegradable warp yarn, and the "single yarn entanglement unevenness" defect of the woven fabric. There is a close relationship between "single yarn intertwining unevenness" and the yarn CF value, and the yarn C after interlace processing is
When the F value exceeds 80, especially 100 or more, the defect of "single yarn intertwining unevenness" becomes noticeable and becomes a problem. The CF value of the yarn is 100
If it is less than or equal to 80, "unevenness in single yarn crossing" will be eliminated. The CF value of biodegradable warp yarn decreases as it goes through the weaving preparation and weaving processes, regardless of the raw yarn CF value and the type of oil agent, and in particular, it decreases significantly during the weaving process, resulting in a decrease to below 10, which is almost the same level. They all line up. From this result, the "single yarn entanglement unevenness" observed in gray fabrics is the geometric residue of entanglement that remains depending on the degree of entanglement of the raw yarns.
Since the number of substantial calamari that appears in the CF value is small and the difference between them is also very small, it can be seen that there is only a weak relationship with "unevenness in single fiber entanglement". In other words, most of the calamari of single yarns are weakened to the extent that they are almost simply overlapping, and it is thought that the form and frequency of this overlapping causes the defect of "uneven interlacing of single yarns." The CF value of raw yarn is 80~
This corresponds to around 100. On the other hand, the appropriate value of the CF value of the yarn from the viewpoint of weavability will be described. There is a close relationship between the CF value of raw yarn and weavability, and if the CF value is too small, for example, if the CF value is 10 or less, single yarn separation tends to occur, increasing single yarn breakage and reducing weavability. Therefore, the CF value of the raw yarn is preferably 10 or more, preferably 20 or more. For example, if it is a polyester filament and the single yarn weave is 4d, the CF value is 20 or more, and if it is red, it is 25.
As described above, in the case of phantom, if it is 35 or more, it is possible to obtain a yarn that exhibits almost satisfactory weavability. In the case of polyamide filaments, satisfactory results can be obtained with a slightly lower CF value. Also, considering the variation in CF value,
For example, in the case of polyester filament single yarn denier red, even if the average CF value is set to 30, there is a large variation in CF.
If the value is less than 10, it is impossible to obtain sufficiently satisfactory weavability. It is important to take technical consideration to perform interlace processing with as little variation as possible. As mentioned above, in order to eliminate "single yarn entanglement unevenness", it is necessary that the CF value of the raw yarn is 100 or less, preferably 80 or less, and from the viewpoint of weavability, it is necessary to have a CF value of at least 10 or more. In practice, the CF value may be selected at a value close to the lowest value within a range that does not impede weavability, from the viewpoint of reducing compressed air consumption during interlace processing and preventing the yarn from becoming too strong and elongated. Further, in the present invention, a yarn whose CF value in the gray fabric can be reduced to 10 or less must be used for the warp yarn. The reason for this is that if the CF value in the gray fabric exceeds 10, it will not only cause uneven intertwining of the single filaments, which will significantly impair the surface quality of the fabric, but also cause glossiness, making it impossible to produce a high-quality fabric. Note that the CF value stated in this patent is U. S. P. The measurement method is based on 2Mei 5995, and a load of total denier × 0.2 is suspended from the lower end of the sample with a length of about 1 m, and chrome plating with a diameter of 0.7 ribs is applied to the east center part of the thread at the upper end of the sample. Insert the hook, hold it with an insect pin, and gently drop the hook at a speed of about 2/sec. Find the distance ○ (depression) until it stops at the intersection. The total weight of the hook shall be the number of grams equivalent to the single yarn denier.

For example, in the case of a single yarn denier box, the weight is 3 grams. Measurements of 5 points are performed, and the cF value = cF value is determined from the average value.

Non-woven and non-glued fabrics made that meet the above CF value conditions do not have uneven gloss due to ``unevenness in single thread cross-over'', but they do have another defect of uneven gloss, that is, rirakki.
It occurs on the entire surface of textiles, significantly reducing its commercial value for clothing.

The "irakki" defect is a peculiar defect that occurs in plain woven fabrics that have no texture, and the dyed fabric is more noticeable than in gray fabrics. In twill and satin woven fabrics other than plain woven fabrics, this "irrattiness" defect is not so noticeable, and it does not occur at all in plain woven fabrics made of conventional woven yarns.

Therefore, unless this "irakki" defect is resolved, a practical non-woven fabric will not be completed. The shortcomings of "Irakki" will be explained in detail below.

The defects of "Irakki" are as shown in Fig. 1A, where a strongly shining race line part is observed all over the warp direction in a rain-like manner, or as shown in Fig. 1B, bright and dark areas are seen in spots. It is something.

At first glance, the strongly shining rope line portion appears to be a continuous line in the vertical direction, but as shown in FIG. In order to solve this problem, we analyzed the cause of the problem and found the following facts.

In other words, when the CF value of the raw yarn is 80 or less, the single yarn cross-warp of the woven yarn that becomes the gray fabric almost disappears, and as a result, each single yarn is neatly aligned in parallel, and the yarn becomes If you compare the cross-sectional shape of the fiber to the Kanen thread, it will be in a flat state. In addition, since the threads do not have a focusing force, the condition of single thread stacking tends to change due to the influence of surrounding conditions during machine loading, and threads with different degrees of flatness tend to coexist. When warp yarns with different degrees of flatness in cross section coexist,
There is a difference in the degree of curvature of the horizontal threads that intersect each warp thread. When light is irradiated to a part in such a state, as shown in Fig. 2A, the reflected light is weak in the part where the curvature of the horizontal thread is large, and as shown in Fig. 2B, the curvature of the horizontal thread is low. In small areas, the reflected light is strong. In other words, weak reflected light and strong reflected light will coexist, and if the proportion of strong reflected light is less than the proportion of weak reflected light, it will result in a rain-like "crane-line-like irradiation." It becomes "spotted irritation". The mixed state of warp yarns with different degrees of flatness in cross-section is expressed as the "flattening content rate" as shown in the following formula.
When defined as flat part content 0-5% and 8
If it is in the range of 0 to 100%, it has been determined that "Iratsuki 1 quality" is passed. Flattening ratio (%) = 33 demand.

In other words, if the arrangement state of each single yarn in the warp yarn is a two-tier arrangement and a three-tier arrangement,
The number of warp threads is A when a two-tier arrangement is used (for example, as shown in FIG. 2B), and the number of warp threads is B when a three-tier arrangement is used (for example, as shown in FIG. 2A). Also, in both cases where a three-tier arrangement and a four-tier arrangement coexist, the number of warp threads on the lower-tier arrangement side is A, and the number of warp threads on the higher-tier arrangement side is B.
In addition, when the arrangement state of single yarn is determined only by the number of rows, two types are mixed in most cases, and three or more types are rarely mixed. Therefore, the flatness rate should be set at 0-5% and 80-100.
If we take measures to increase the flat rate of convenience, we will pass the "Irakki 1 grade." After considering various measures and repeating experiments, we found that the factors that affect the flat rate of convenience are the factors in the specific range mentioned above. In addition to the CF value of the yarn and the CF value of the yarn in the gray fabric, the single yarn diameter d (sail) of the warp yarn, the horizontal y of the number of warp single yarns (pieces), and the warp yarn spacing x (stiffness) correlation,
We found that it is important to specify the arrangement of warp yarns in the thickness direction within a fabric. That is, in the present invention, it is necessary to select weaving conditions such that 80% or more of the warp yarns are arranged in three stages in the thickness direction.

Such conditions include, for example, using raw yarn with a CF value of 10 or less in the gray fabric, specifying the warp yarn density, and actively squeezing or loosening the warp yarn during or before weaving. This means no vibration, banging, etc. If such a means of actively destroying the interlacing is used, the arrangement of the warp yarns will be more closely aligned to a one-tiered arrangement, and a high-quality fabric with bulkiness and resilience cannot be obtained. Next, the fiber density and arrangement of constituent single yarns in the present invention will be described. That is, the thread density k (threads/2.
54 skin) to warp thread spacing (25.4/k association), and the product dxf of warp thread single thread diameter d (leg) and warp thread single thread number f
When (side) is y, the flat part content is 0 to 5% and 80
The combinations that can be set to 100% are in the area shown in FIG. Note that y=dxf (fence) represents the yarn width when all the single yarns constituting one yarn are arranged in one row. The meaning of Figure 3 is that as y becomes larger than x, the arrangement of single yarns progresses from 2 to 3 to 4, and from 2 to 3.
This shows that different numbers of array stages coexist in the progression of the three-stage and three- to four-stage arrays. The areas where the flat part content rate is 0 to 5% and 80 to 100% in FIG. 3, that is, the area in which the "Irachi" defect passes, can be expressed using the following formula. That is, 0.4 tuna 0.283
The area is ≦y≦0.2, which is approximately 0.404.

Therefore, it is possible to eliminate the "irachi" defect by selecting a combination of the fineness, total weave, and number of single yarns so as to fall within the above-mentioned range for preventing the "irachi" defect.

When selecting the total density and the number of yarns, we take into account the rationality of yarn production, and cover the entire range of fabric density planned according to each total density to avoid the occurrence of "irratsuki" defects. It is preferable to select a number of single yarns that satisfies the characteristics required in terms of texture. From the viewpoint of the texture of the fabric, the upper limit of the single yarn twill is generally considered to be 4 to crimson. Therefore, for example, in the case of a polyester multifilament-based yarn with a total weave of 7, the number of single yarns is 20 to 26, more preferably 2.
It may be selected as appropriate from between 1 and 25. Further, in the present invention, as described above, it is necessary that 80% or more of the single yarn arrangement state of the warp yarns in the thickness direction of the fabric be a three-tier arrangement.

By doing so, the woven fabric has a sense of thickness, has excellent breathability, and can be used as general clothing. Note that various selections can be made for other materials and total twill as described above.

As mentioned above, the total weave, the number of single yarns, and the warp yarn density are selected to be within the above-mentioned range for preventing the "unevenness of single yarn entanglement" defect, and the " By setting all the conditions such as ``raw yarn CF value is 100 or less, preferably 80 or less'' and ``original yarn CF value is 10 or more'' to satisfy weavability, and performing no-glue weaving. For the first time, we can obtain the desired high-quality, non-glue plain fabric.

It goes without saying that the manufacturing cost is reduced because the weaving process and the gluing process are omitted by the present invention, but especially when weaving in a water jet loom,
It has the advantage that there is no shedding of threads in the heddles, streaks, etc. that occurs with ordinary glued yarn, and therefore there are fewer vertical seam defects in the fabric that occur due to the growth of mold or the crackling of heddles. Even in this case, it is possible to omit some or all of the steps such as drying the greige, scouring without glue, and setting the greige, which greatly contributes to rationalization. Next, an explanation will be given according to an example. (Example 1) Polyamide-based and polyester-based multifilament yarns as shown in Table 2 were manufactured, and the results were shown in Table 4 by weaving them according to the product specifications shown in Table 3 without applying glue or glue.

In addition, the CF value of all such raw yarns could be reduced to 10 or less in the gray fabric. Furthermore, I used the same horizontal thread as the warp thread. In addition, the loom conditions are Nissan's Water Jet Lume, and the loom speed is 36.
Weaving was performed by setting the loom tension to 0.25 to 0.30 g/d for polyamide filament yarn and 0.30 to 0.35 g/d for polyester filament yarn.

As shown in Table 4, Levels 1 and 5, which were woven within the scope of the present invention, were subjected to interlacing treatment, and even though the adding process and gluing process were omitted, "single yarn intertwining unevenness J" and "iratsuki" were observed. A high-quality fabric with no defects was obtained.

However, even if the CF value of the Rugen yarn of levels 3 and 6 is within the range of the present invention, which is 100 or less, if (x, y) is outside the range of the present invention, the single yarn entanglement unevenness is not satisfied. The grade of Mori Rakki was rejected. On the other hand, as in level 2, (x, y) is
Even if it is within the scope of the present invention, if the raw yarn CF value is 100 or more, that is, outside the scope of the present invention, it may be considered that the CF value of the yarn is 100 or more, that is, it is outside the scope of the present invention. Of course, those in which both the raw yarn CF value and (x, y) were outside the range of the present invention, such as Level 4, were rejected for both "single yarn intertwining unevenness" and "iracchi quality".
Table 1 Note on the relationship between raw yarn ○ F value and “1l; yarn entanglement unevenness”
Judgment of single yarn entanglement unevenness None None (A grade passed product) Slightly noticeable Wo (A grade) Noticeable W, (B grade) Extremely noticeable W2 (C grade failed product) Table 2 Example 1 Based on historical experience, Kawaie multifilament yarn Table 3 Product specifications Note) The total weave of the horizontal yarn is the same as the total weave of the warp yarn Table 4 Experimental results of Example 1 7t) W2 has extremely noticeable defects and is a rejected product. what becomes

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the defect of ``rirakki'', where A is ``striped irakki'', B is ``spotted irakki'', and C is ``bell-shaped irakki''.
It is an enlarged view of the bright line part of. Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the cross section of the fabric and the state of light reflection.A shows the case where the single yarns constituting the warp threads are arranged in three stages, B shows the case where they are arranged in two stages, and Figure 3 shows 2 is a diagram illustrating an area where no "iracchi" defect occurs. Outer figure 1 spear 2 wishes S figure

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A yarn made of interlaced thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament having a constituent single filament fineness of less than 5 deniers, which has a CF value of 10 to 1 in the state of raw yarn.
00 and whose CF value in the gray fabric can be reduced to 10 or less as the warp yarn, and the product y of the single yarn diameter d (mm) of the warp yarn and the number of warp single yarns f (pieces). , the warp spacing x (mm) satisfies the following relational expression, and 80% or more of the warp single yarns in the thickness direction of the fabric are arranged in three stages, so that there is substantially no twist or twist. A method for producing a twist-free and glue-free fabric, which is characterized by weaving a plain-textured fabric with glue. 0.46x+0.283≦y≦0.20x+0.40
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