JPS6223094B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for weaving warp yarns made of interlaced thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament with virtually no twist or glue, and to solve the problem of "transmission unevenness" that is visible due to transmitted light, which is a problem with conventional kink-free and glue-free fabrics. The present invention relates to a weaving method for obtaining high-quality fabrics that are free from defects and "uneven gloss" defects visible by reflected light. Conventionally, when producing textiles using synthetic multifilament fibers for clothing, a method has been used in which the warp yarns are given twist and texture to prevent the generation of fuzz during weaving. These welding and gluing steps are unavoidable steps in terms of weaving efficiency, and it has been the desire of the industry to omit them from the perspective of reducing required costs. As an effective means to replace the effects of twist and glue, a so-called interlaced yarn, which is created by air treatment to create intertwining between the single yarns of the yarn, is used as the warp yarn, such as in Japanese Patent Publication No. 37-1175. There is some interest in weaving. By performing such interlacing processing, the range in which it is possible to weave without twisting or sagging in terms of applicable single yarn fineness, fabric density, etc. is expanded, more fabric types are covered, the weaving preparation process is streamlined, and the weaving preparation process is streamlined. By omitting the glue removal process, the scouring and dyeing process can be simplified, and the effect is significant. However, woven fabrics woven with non-bulky synthetic fiber interlaced yarns as warp yarns without any twists or glues have defects such as minute "transmission unevenness" visible in the vertical direction when transmitted light and minute "transmission unevenness" visible when reflected light. It has the disadvantage of causing "unevenness in gloss" and significantly lowering the quality of the fabric.
In order to eliminate the defects of "uneven transmission" and "uneven gloss", the inventors of the present invention first conducted extensive research into the causes of their occurrence, and as a result, the following facts were discovered.
In other words, the "uneven transmission" defect is a unique defect that occurs only in non-twisted and non-swept fabrics, regardless of the presence or absence of interlacing. Due to the change between the yarns, there is a difference in the way each single yarn overlaps, and as a result, when the light that enters the fabric is transmitted, there is unevenness in the transmission direction, which is called "transmission unevenness". This is a drawback. Furthermore, it has been discovered that the "unevenness in gloss", which was thought to be caused by the same factor, is caused by two different causes. That is, one of them is caused by the structural characteristics of interlace yarns, and is a defect called "unevenness in single yarn entanglement." Interlaced yarns alternately have convergent areas where the single yarns are intertwined and non-aggregated areas where the single yarns are not intertwined, so this difference in yarn form remains even after the fabric is constructed, causing uneven gloss. . The other problem is that regardless of the presence or absence of interlacing, the arrangement of the multifilament single yarns in the warp yarns that form the warp-free fabric changes, so warp yarns with different degrees of flatness coexist. As a result of giving different bends to the weft yarns that intersect with each warp yarn, the difference in bending of the weft yarns causes uneven gloss of the fabric, which is a so-called "reflection irritation" defect. These drawbacks are that the yarn is generally tough and has high strength and elongation, and has the potential to withstand twist-free and no-knead treatment, and the cross section is usually circular and glossy, and the geometric structure of the yarn has good light transmission characteristics. As a result of the emergence of synthetic fibers with properties that are sensitive to gloss and luster properties, this will only come to the fore when it becomes possible to weave it without any twist or glue. No specific proposals for countermeasures have been made public. The present inventors have discovered that "single yarn intertwining unevenness" occurs when interlaced yarn is used without twisting.
We clarified the physical generation mechanism of "transmission irregularity" and "reflection irregularity" defects that occur due to weaving without any twist or glue, regardless of the presence or absence of defects and interlacing, and investigated the "single yarn entanglement unevenness" defect and "transmission irregularity." We propose a method for producing a kink-free, non-glue-free fabric that has no defects, and also a method for producing a kink-free, non-glue fabric that solves the defect of "reflection irritation" at the same time. The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a high-quality kink-free fabric, and is characterized by having the following configuration. That is, in the present invention, a yarn made of interlaced thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament having a CF value of 10 to 100 is used as a warp yarn, and the diameter of the single yarn constituting the warp yarn is d.
(mm), assuming that it is a monofilament, the total diameter is D (mm), the warp thread spacing is x (mm), and the weft thread spacing is z (mm), satisfying the formula 0.250≧d/x+0.472D/z and the diameter d of the single yarn constituting the thread
(mm), product y of warp thread single thread number f, and warp thread spacing x
This is a method of weaving with substantially no twist or glue so as to satisfy the linear equation 0.46x+0.283≦y≦0.20x+0.404 defined between (mm). Here, what is essentially no twist and no nori?
The yarn may have a twist of around 50T/m or less,
In short, this means that you don't particularly use flax yarn before weaving. The present invention will be explained in detail below. As mentioned above, the defects that occur in kink-free and non-glue fabrics can be broadly classified into three types with different causes: "unevenness in single yarn entanglement,""transmissionirregularity," and "reflection irregularity." Solutions to each of these drawbacks will be explained in detail below. First, there are two “uneven gloss” visible due to reflected light.
Among these, we will discuss how to solve the problem of "single yarn entanglement unevenness" caused by the difference in yarn form between the bundled part and the non- bundled part. This "single yarn intertwining unevenness" is a defect that occurs when interlaced warp yarns are woven with no twist or no twist and no weave. As a result of investigating the relationship between the CF value of the biodegradable warp yarn of the woven fabric and the defect of "single yarn entanglement unevenness" of the woven fabric, Table 1
The results were obtained. In other words, there is a close relationship between the defect of "single yarn entanglement unevenness" and the yarn CF value, and especially when the yarn CF value after interlace processing exceeds 80,
If this is the case, the defect of "single yarn entanglement unevenness" becomes noticeable and becomes a problem, and if the CF value of the raw yarn is 100 or less, preferably 80 or less, "single yarn entanglement unevenness" will be eliminated. The CF value of gray warp yarn decreases through the weaving preparation and weaving processes, regardless of the raw yarn CF value and the type of oil agent. As a result, it was found that the number decreased significantly due to the influence of From this result, the "unevenness in single yarn entanglement" observed in gray fabrics is due to the geometric imperfections of entanglement that remain depending on the degree of entanglement of the raw yarns, and the substantial calamari that appears in the CF value is small in number and Since the difference is very small, it can be seen that there is only a weak relationship with "unevenness in single fiber entanglement." In other words, most of the entanglements of single yarns are weakened to the extent that they are almost like simple overlaps, but it is thought that the form and frequency of this overlap causes the defect of "uneven entanglement of single yarns." The boundary region where this geometrical entanglement causes an optical defect corresponds to the CF value of the raw yarn, which is around 80 to 100. On the other hand, regarding the appropriate value of the CF value of yarn from the viewpoint of weavability, there is a close relationship between yarn CF value and weavability. In such cases, the CF value of the raw yarn is preferably 10 or more, preferably 20 or more, since single yarn separation is likely to occur, resulting in increased single yarn breakage and reduced weavability. As mentioned above, in order to eliminate "single yarn entanglement unevenness", it is necessary that the CF value of the raw yarn is 100 or less, preferably 80 or less, and from the viewpoint of weavability, it is necessary to have a CF value of at least 10 or more. The CF value described in this patent is based on a measurement method based on USP2985995, in which a load of total denier x 0.2g is suspended at the bottom end of a sample with a sample length of approximately 1m.
Insert a chrome-plated hook with a diameter of 0.7 mm into the center of the yarn bundle at the top of the sample, and while supporting it with an insect pin, gently drop the hook at a speed of approximately 1 cm/sec until it stops at the intertwined part, distance E (cm). seek. The total weight of the hook shall be the number of grams equivalent to the single yarn denier. Perform 50 measurements and calculate from the average value
Assume that CF value = 100/E is to be determined. Non-kink and non-glue fabrics made under the above CF value conditions do not have uneven luster due to single yarn entanglement unevenness, but another drawback is so-called "transmission irregularity" that is visible only through transmitted light. This often occurs on the entire surface of the fabric when weaving under normal conditions, significantly reducing its commercial value as a garment. Therefore, unless this "transmission irritation" defect is also resolved, a practical kink-free fabric will not be completed. Below, we will discuss the cause of the "transmission irritation" defect and how to solve it. As shown in Figure 1, the defect of "transmission irritation" is that the difference in brightness is observed only in the warp threads, and the incident direction of the light is strong when the incident plane and the weft thread are parallel, and when the angle of incidence changes, "transmission irritation" occurs. ``The location of the defect appears to change, and conversely, when the incident direction of light is parallel to the warp threads, the ``transmission irritation'' defect is not observed. In order to eliminate this drawback, we analyzed the cause and found the following facts. In other words, the warp threads that make up the gray fabric are woven without any twists or glues, so the individual single threads that make up the warp threads are neatly aligned in parallel, forming a shape that can be used as a thread. When you compare the cross-sectional shape of the thread to the thread, it becomes flat. Furthermore, as shown in Figure 2, when the warp yarn is arranged in two tiers, for example, there is a difference in the way the filaments arranged in the second tier overlap, and the filaments in the second tier are arranged in the first tier. There are two types of filaments that overlap slightly to the left of the stable state (Figure 2-A) and those that overlap slightly to the right (Figure 2-B).
The incidence rate of both cases is approximately 50% each. When light is irradiated to a part in such a state with the plane of incidence and the weft parallel to each other, the light is transmitted when the second-stage filament overlaps the first-stage filament slightly to the left compared to the stable state. Most of the light goes to the left, and where it overlaps to the right, most of the transmitted light goes to the right.In other words, where most of the transmitted light hits the eye, it appears to shine,
Where most of the transmitted light does not reach the eye, it appears black. The difference between the bright parts and the black parts causes uneven transmission, which is what is called "transmission irritating." The strength of "transmission irritation" is determined by the area where the second-stage filament is slightly deviated from the stable state with respect to the first-stage filament and the amount of light transmitted therethrough.
In addition, in the parts where the filaments of the warp thread are arranged in 3 and 4 stages,
Even if there is a slight deviation from the stable state with respect to the filaments arranged directly below the filaments arranged in the row, "irritation" does not occur because the direction of the transmitted light is small, but each of the warp threads Even if all the filaments are arranged in 3 and 4 rows, the number of filaments arranged in the 3rd and 4th rows is small, so all parts of one warp yarn have 3 and 4 rows. There is always a part where the filaments are arranged in two tiers rather than in a straight line, and if the second tier filament deviates slightly from the stable state with respect to the first tier filament in this area, "transmission irritation" occurs. ” occurs.
As a result of various experiments, the factors that influence the filament arrangement state are the diameter d (mm) of the single yarns constituting the warp yarns, the total fineness T (denier) of the warp yarns, and the warp density K (strands/2.54 cm), horizontal density L
(book/2.54cm), and it was revealed that this "transmission irritation" could be resolved only by a certain combination of these four elements. In other words, warp yarn fineness T
(denier) is the diameter D (mm) assuming that it is a monofilament, and the warp thread density K (strands/
2.54cm) to warp thread spacing x (2.54/Kmm), and weft thread density L (pieces/2.54cm) to weft thread spacing z
(2.54/Kmm), the combination that can eliminate the "transmission irritation" defect is only when the condition of 0.250≧d/x+0.472D/z, preferably 0.217≧d/x+0.472D/z, is satisfied. It is. Therefore,
In order to obtain a kink-free fabric that does not cause the problem of "transmission irritation," the combination of the total fineness of the warp yarns, the single yarn diameter, and the warp and weft densities may be selected so as to fall within the range of the above formula. Specifically, when selecting the total fineness and single yarn diameter of warp yarns,
It is desirable to select a single yarn diameter that does not cause the "transmission irritation" defect over the entire range of fabric densities planned for each total fineness. For example, a relatively common 70-denier nylon plain weave with a vertical density of 100 to 115 fibers/
In, if you want to obtain a kink-free fabric with less "transmission irritation" defects in the weft density range of 75 to 90, select a single yarn diameter of 0.0208 mm or less, or a single yarn count of 20 or more, to cover the entire area. It is possible to obtain a kink-free fabric with less "transmission irritation" defects during wadding. As mentioned above, the total fineness, single yarn diameter, warp, and weft density are selected so as to be within the above-mentioned range to prevent the defect of "transmission irregularity", and the values are determined in order to prevent the defect of "uneven entangling of single yarn" mentioned above. "Original Yarn CF
By setting the conditions such that the fiber CF value is 100 or less, preferably 80 or less, and the yarn CF value is 10 or more to satisfy weavability, and weaving without any twist or glue, we can eliminate ``transmission irritation''. A high-quality, twist-free, non-swept plain woven fabric free from the defects of ``unevenness'' and ``single yarn entanglement unevenness'' can be obtained. Next, there is "unevenness in gloss" that is visible due to another reflected light due to another factor, so-called "reflection irritation", and if this "reflection irritation" drawback is also eliminated,
Furthermore, the desired highest quality kink-free fabric is completed. Hereinafter, the cause of "reflection irritation" and its solution will be explained in detail.
"Reflection irritation" is a phenomenon in which bright lines that shine strongly in the vertical direction are observed over the entire surface in a raindrop pattern, as shown in Figure 3A, or bright and dark areas are observed in spots as shown in Figure 3B. be. At first glance, the bright line that shines brightly appears to be a continuous line in the vertical direction, but it is actually a third line.
As shown in Figure C, the strongly glowing parts of the weft thread are connected in a dotted line in the vertical direction. In order to eliminate the drawbacks, various experiments were conducted and the following facts were found. In other words, when the CF value of the raw yarn is 80 or less, the interlacing of the single yarns in the warp yarn that becomes the gray fabric almost disappears, and as a result, each single yarn is neatly arranged in parallel, and the yarn becomes If you compare the cross-sectional shape of the yarn to that of the Kanen yarn, it will be in a flat state. In addition, since the threads do not have a converging force in the stacked state of single threads,
It tends to change due to the influence of surrounding conditions during weaving, and items with different flatness tend to coexist. When warp yarns with different degrees of flatness in cross section coexist, there will be differences in the degree of curvature of the weft yarns that intersect with each warp yarn. When light is irradiated to a part in such a state, as shown in Fig. 4A, the reflected light is weak in the part where the curvature of the weft thread is large, and as shown in Fig. 4B, it is strongly reflected in the part where the curvature of the weft thread is small. Becomes light. In other words, weak reflected light and strong reflected light will coexist, and if the proportion of strong reflected light is smaller than the proportion of weak reflected light, it will result in rain-like "bright line irritation," and conversely, if there is a large amount of reflected light, , resulting in “spotted irritation”. The mixed state of warp yarn cross-sectional shapes with different degrees of flatness can be expressed as follows: If the "flattening content" ranges from 0 to 5% and from 80 to 100%, the quality of "reflection irritation" passes. I found it. Flat part content (%)=A/A+B×100 Here, A and B are determined by microscopic observation of the cross section of the fabric. In other words, if the arrangement state of each single yarn in a warp thread is a two-tier arrangement and a three-tier arrangement, the two-tier arrangement is used (for example, the state shown in Figure 4 B). ) The number of warp threads is A, and the number of warp threads is B in a three-tier arrangement (for example, the state shown in FIG. 4A). Further, even in the case where a three-tier arrangement and a four-tier arrangement coexist, the number of warp threads on the lower arrangement side is A, and the number of warp threads on the higher arrangement side is B. Note that when looking at the arrangement state of single yarns only in terms of the number of rows, two types are mixed in most cases, and three or more types are rarely mixed. Therefore, the flat part content is 0~5% and 80~
If you take measures to make it 100%, you will pass the "reflection irritation" quality test. Therefore, we researched various countermeasures, and as a result of experiments, we found that the factors that affect the flat part content are warp density K (strands/2.54 cm), warp yarn single yarn diameter d (mm), and warp yarn single yarn number f (pieces).
It was clarified that it is possible to make the flat part content from 0 to 5% and from 80 to 100% only with certain combinations of these three elements. In other words, warp thread density K (pieces/2.54cm) is warp thread spacing x
(2.54/Kmm) and warp yarn single yarn diameter d
(mm) and the product d x f (mm) of warp yarn single yarn number f is y, then the flat part content is 0 to 5% and 80 to 100%.
Possible combinations are in the area shown in FIG. The meaning of y=d×f (mm) represents the yarn width when all the single yarns constituting one yarn are arranged in one row. The meaning of Figure 6 is that as y becomes larger than x, the arrangement of single yarns progresses to 2, 3, and 4 stages. , 3-stage array, and 3-4 stage arrays, in which different numbers of array stages coexist. The areas in which the content of the flat portions in FIG. 6 is 0 to 5% and 80 to 100%, that is, the areas where the "reflection irritating" defect passes, can be expressed using the following formula. That is, the area is 0.46x+0.283≦y≦0.20x+0.404. Therefore, in order to prevent all three major drawbacks of "transmission irregularity", "single yarn entanglement unevenness", and "reflection irregularity" that occur in non-twist and no-glue fabrics, it is necessary to It satisfies the conditions for preventing "unevenness" and prevents the above-mentioned "reflection irritation" drawback. To enter the area,
This is only possible by selecting a combination of warp density, total fineness, and number of single yarns, setting them so that all conditions are satisfied, and weaving without twisting or gluing. To explain specifically using the above-mentioned nylon 70 denier plain weave as an example, the planned vertical,
If the weft density is the same as the above range, the number of filaments that passes "transmission irritation" and "single yarn entanglement unevenness" is 20 filaments or more, and the number of filaments that also passes "reflection irritation" is 20 or more. 24, more preferably from 20 to 22. As mentioned above, in order to prevent the defect of "single yarn entanglement unevenness", "raw yarn CF value is 100 or less, preferably 80 or less" and to satisfy weavability, "raw yarn CF value is 100 or less, preferably 80 or less"
By selecting the total fineness, single yarn diameter, warp, and weft density within the above range that satisfies the condition of "CF value of 10 or more" and prevents the "transmission irritation" defect, the "transmission irritation" defect can be avoided. If the total fineness, single yarn diameter, and warp weave density are selected to be within the above-mentioned range that prevents the defect of "transmission irritation" and "reflection irritation" ``You can obtain a high-quality plain woven fabric without any defects. It goes without saying that the manufacturing cost is reduced because the weaving process and the gluing process are omitted by the present invention, but when weaving in a water jet loom, the heddles, reeds, etc. that are seen in normal gluing processes are reduced. There is no slipping off of the glue, which reduces the occurrence of mold and warp defects in the fabric that occur due to mutual stickiness of the healds.Furthermore, in the weaving process, it is possible to dry the gray fabric, remove the glue, and scouring it.
It is also possible to omit some or all of the steps such as setting the gray fabric, which greatly contributes to rationalization. Next, an explanation will be given according to an example. Examples Polyamide-based and polyester-based multifilament yarns as shown in Table 2 were produced and woven according to the various product specifications shown in Table 3 without being coated or glued, and the results are shown in Table 4. The loom conditions are as follows: All models have a water jet room, the loom rotation speed is 360 rpm, and the loom tension is for polyamide filament yarn.
Weaving was carried out at a setting of 0.25 to 0.30 g/d, and in the case of polyester filament yarn, 0.30 to 0.35 g/d. As shown in Table 4, Levels 1 to 2 and 9 to 10, which were woven within the scope of the present invention, were interlaced and had no "unevenness in single yarn entanglement" even though the addition process was omitted. A high-quality woven fabric was obtained, which was free from irradiation and had a passing level of grade 3 or higher in terms of "transmission irradiation" and "reflection irritation." However, as in levels 3, 4, 11, and 12, the CF of the yarn
Even if the value is 100 or less and is within the area of d/x+0.472×D/z≦0.250, if it is still outside the area of 0.46x+0.283≦y≦0.20x+0.404, Even if "uneven confounding" and "transmission irregularities" are satisfied, "reflection irregularities"
The quality of the product was 2nd grade or lower, and it was a rejected product. On the other hand, as in Level 8, even if the relationships of d/x+0.472×D/z≦0.250 and 0.46x+0.283≦y≦0.20x+0.404 of the present invention are satisfied, the yarn CF value is 100 or more. i.e. outside the scope of the present invention,
Although it passed the test for "transmission irritation" and "reflection irritation," the quality of "single yarn entanglement unevenness" was poor and the product was rejected. Of course, like levels 6 and 13, yarn CF
Even if the values are satisfied, if d/x+0.472×D/z and 0.46x+0.283≦y≦0.20x+0.404 are outside the scope of the present invention, the quality will be rejected for both “transmission irritation” and “reflection irritation”. Ta. Regarding weavability, since a CF value of 30 or more was adopted, the weaving efficiency was 90% or more, which was good.

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【table】 [Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of the "irritating" defect due to transmitted light. Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the warp yarn cross section and the state of light transmission. A shows the case where the two-tiered single yarn is slightly shifted to the left compared to the single-tiered single yarn, and B shows the case where it is shifted to the right. It is a diagram. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of "irritation" defects caused by reflected light, where A is a "bright line irritating", B is a "spotted irritating", and C is an enlarged view of a bright line part of a "bright line irritating". FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the cross section of the fabric and the state of light reflection, where A shows the case where the single yarns constituting the warp threads are arranged in the third row, and B shows the case where they are arranged in the second row. FIG. 5 is an illustration of an area where the "irritation" defect due to transmitted light does not occur, and FIG. 6 is an illustration of an area where the "irritation" defect due to reflected light does not occur.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. The CF value of the yarn made of interlaced thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament is 10-10.
100 is used as the warp yarn, and the single yarn diameter d (mm) of the warp yarn, the total diameter D (mm) assuming it is a monofilament, and the warp yarn spacing x
(mm) and the weft yarn spacing z (mm) satisfies the following formula: 0.250≧d/x+0.472D/z, and the single yarn diameter d (mm) of the warp yarn
The product of y and the number of single warp threads f (pieces) and the warp thread spacing x
(mm) A twist-free and glue-free fabric that is characterized by being woven with virtually no twist or glue so as to satisfy the linear equation 0.46x+0.283≦y≦0.20x+0.404 defined between manufacturing method.