JPS6152253B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a novel polyester spunlike yarn capable of forming woven or knitted fabrics having an elegant appearance and a soft surface touch. Recently, by intertwining a partially oriented polyester yarn spun at a high speed with an undrawn polyester yarn spun at a medium-low speed, and subjecting it to stretching and friction false twisting at the same time, a polyester multifilament that becomes a core is surrounded by another polyester multifilament that becomes a sheath. The filaments are wound in a continuous alternating manner, and some of the filaments of both multi-filaments are mixed and entangled with each other at the interface between the core and the sheath.
It has been proposed to use polyester spun-like processed yarn with a layered structure (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 55-98931).
(Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-98932). This spun-like processed yarn has a special two-layer structure as mentioned above, so it has an appropriate amount of bulge and a wool-like feel, and has an excellent spun-like texture.In addition, it has good productivity and is suitable for weaving and knitting processes. It has many advantages such as easy handling. However, the spunlike textured yarns of this type that have been proposed so far are somewhat lacking in elegance in appearance and softness when made into knitted fabrics, which limits their application to the field of high-end clothing. The present inventors have conducted intensive research to provide a synthetic fiber spun-like processed yarn with a flexible touch that is useful in these fields, so-called peach skin touch synthetic fiber spun-like processed yarn. A multifilament made of a multi-segment composite fiber with an average single filament denier of 2 to 8 de is used as the multifilament, and at least a part of the filament in the sheath is cut and raised, and the filament in the raised part is divided into each segment. The present invention was achieved based on the discovery that by forming fine fibers into woven or knitted fabrics, it is possible to significantly improve the appearance and feel, such as surface gloss and color tone, while maintaining the appropriate fullness and volume when made into woven or knitted fabrics. This is what I did. That is, in the present invention, the average single yarn denier is 3 to 6 de
Synthetic fiber multifilament A serves as the core,
Multifilament B consisting of multi-segment composite fibers with an average single yarn denier of 2 to 8 de.
It is a spun-like processed yarn with a two-layer structure in which the fibers are alternately twisted to form a sheath part, and each fiber is mixed and entangled with each other at the boundary between the core part and the sheath part, and the composite fibers of the sheath part At least a part of the composite fiber is cut and raised, and at least a part of the raised part is divided into each segment of the composite fiber to form fine fibers. The raised spunlike textured yarn of the present invention is basically a special type of yarn as described in JP-A No. 55-98932.
Although it has a layered structure, in the present invention, a core multifilament with a specific denier range is used, and a sheath multifilament with a specific denier range made of a special multi-segment composite fiber is used. . That is, in the present invention, the synthetic fiber multifilament A serving as the core has an average single yarn denier of 3 to 6 de.
In particular, 4 to 5 de is preferable. If this value is less than 3de, the repellency and elasticity of the fibrous material will be insufficient, and if it exceeds 6de, the drapability of the woven or knitted product will decrease. The multifilament A may be one in which two or more types of multifilaments having different single filament deniers are plied, mixed, or twisted together.
The cross-sectional shape of the filament of the multifilament A may be not only a normal circular shape but also a non-circular cross-section such as a triangular, quadrangular, trilopal, multilopal, etc., and the filament has one or more hollow portions continuous in the longitudinal direction of the filament. But that's fine. The total denier DA of the multifilament A varies depending on the final use of the processed yarn, but is generally within the range of 50 to 300 de. The "synthetic fibers" constituting the multifilament are preferably polyester fibers (especially polyethylene terephthalate fibers), but synthetic fibers such as nylon 6 and nylon 66 can also be used, and different types of synthetic fibers can be used in combination. I can't help it. On the other hand, the multifilament B, which is a multi-segment composite fiber serving as the sheath, has an average single filament denier of 2 to 8 de. The term "multi-segment composite fiber" as used herein refers to a composite fiber in which two or more types of fiber-forming polymers that are not compatible with each other are arranged in five or more segments so that they are adjacent to each other. , is a general term for those whose segments can be divided into fine fibers by applying an appropriate force. As such a "multi-segment type conjugate fiber", a conjugate fiber in which segments are arranged radially around a hollow portion as shown in FIG. 1 is particularly suitable. As the polymer constituting this composite fiber, a combination of polymers that can be melt-spun and are mutually incompatible is selected, but a combination of polyester and polyamide is optimal, such as polyethylene terephthalate and nylon 66,
Combinations of polyethylene terephthalate and nylon 6, polybutylene terephthalate and nylon 6, etc. are preferred. In the example shown in FIG. 1, eight polyester segments T and eight polyamide segments N are arranged alternately, and although such a composite fiber is preferable, the present invention is not limited to this. The size of each segment in the composite fiber is such that the denier of the fine fiber after splitting is 0.2~
It is preferable to set it to 0.4de, and therefore the number of segments is preferably 8 to 20. In the spunlike processed yarn of the present invention, the multifilament yarn B made of the aforementioned multi-segment composite fiber constitutes the sheath portion, and at least some of the filaments of the yarn B are cut and raised to become fluff. At least a part (preferably almost all) of the fuzz protrudes from the yarn surface and is divided into each segment of the composite fiber to form fine fibers of 0.2 to 0.4 de. Therefore, although the processed yarn of the present invention has a core portion (core yarn) and a sheath portion (wound yarn) each having an appropriate single yarn denier, the raised portion is formed by an extremely thin fine mechanism. When made into a woven or knitted fabric, it has excellent surface gloss and color tone while maintaining sufficient repellency and firm volume, and has a soft and warm touch known as ``peach skin touch''. The total denier DB of the multifilament B in the sheath is preferably set so that DB/DA is within the range of 0.8 to 1.2, depending on the total denier DA of the multifilament A in the core. The total denier is preferably 100 to 300 de for clothing use, and 300 to 600 de for interior use. Furthermore, the wound yarn forming the sheath of the spunlike processed yarn of the present invention includes filaments produced in the manufacturing process, such as fully split filaments that are divided into each segment of the composite fiber and/or a plurality of filaments. Incompletely split filaments with joined segments may also be included. Next, a method for efficiently producing the raised spunlike textured yarn of the present invention having the above-described structure will be described. The processed yarn of the present invention can be produced by a combination of the method described in JP-A No. 55-98931 and a raising treatment, or
It can be produced according to the method described in Publication No. -98932, but in this case, the synthetic fiber partially oriented yarn a with an elongation of 140 to 170% produced by high-speed spinning and an elongation of 250% is used as the supplied yarn. The above multi-segment type composite fiber undrawn yarn b is used. As synthetic fiber partially oriented yarn a, polyester is used at 2500 to 4000 m/
Gold denier 75~ spun at high speed spinning speed of 1 minute
Partially oriented yarns (so-called POY) with 450 de, birefringence of 0.03 to 0.06, and density of 1.35 or less are suitable, and undrawn multifilament b, which is a multi-segment composite fiber, is made of polyester and polyamide as described above. 1. Spinning speed for composite form as shown in Figure 1
Undrawn composite fiber yarn spun at 1500~2500 m/min (total denier 75~450 de, single yarn denier 3~
12de) is suitable. An example of simultaneous drawing and false twisting of two types of supplied yarns is shown in FIG. 2. In the figure, 1a is a package of the partially oriented polyester yarn a, and 1b is an undrawn package of the polyester multi-segment composite fiber. Package of multifilament b, 2 is a tension adjustment device, 3 is an interlace nozzle, 4 is a feed roller, 5 is a heater, 6 is a three-axis multistage disk type external friction false twister, 7 is a delivery roller, 8 is a winder, 9 is an oiling roller provided as necessary. The multifilaments a and b unwound from the respective packages 1a and 1b are combined in a tension adjustment device and adjusted to a constant tension at the same time, and then introduced into the interlace nozzle 3 where they are twisted by the action of air turbulence. The filaments are mixed and entangled.
The mixed entanglement here is performed by the hook drop method described in US Patent No. 2985995, and the degree of entanglement is 20 to 80 cases/m
It is preferable to adjust so that The mixed and entangled yarn is then fed from the feed roller 4 to the drawing and simultaneous false twisting zone, and is then passed between the feed roller 4 and the delivery roller 7.
Apply friction false twisting while stretching 1.2 to 2.0 times,
By setting the false twist added to the yarn with a heater 5 with a surface temperature of 160 to 190°C, a two-layer structure yarn in which composite fiber multifilaments are alternately twisted around the core yarn as described above is obtained. The sheet is then pulled by a delivery roller 7, treated with oil by an oiling roller 9 if desired, and then wound up by a winder 8. At this time, the tension ratio (T ₂ /T ₁ ) between the untwisting tension (T ₂ g) and the twisting tension (T ₁ g) during false twisting is 0.75 to
It is preferable to adjust it within the range of 0.95, and for this purpose, it is preferable to use a circumscribed friction false twister having a yarn feeding function as the false twister 6. Moreover, a high processing speed of 300 to 600 m/min can be adopted, and processed yarn can be manufactured with high productivity. In order to obtain the raised spunlike processed yarn of the present invention, it is necessary to further form fine fuzz on the surface of the yarn. The yarn is brought into contact with a rough disk (not shown) to cut and fluff at least a portion (preferably almost all) of the composite fibers in the shaft portion, and at the same time divide each segment into fine fibers. A method of generating fluff, or a method of raising the surface of the woven or knitted material after forming it into a woven or knitted material, and simultaneously raising and dividing the conjugate fibers in the sheath portion can be adopted. The spunlike textured yarn of the present invention obtained in this manner will be further explained with reference to FIGS. 3 and 4. 3 and 4 are a side view and a cross-sectional view of the raised spunlike processed yarn of the present invention, and are A in the figure.
B indicates a filament mainly forming a core portion, and B indicates a multi-segment composite fiber mainly forming a sheath portion. In the spunlike processed yarn of the present invention, as shown in FIG. 4, the filament A having a large single yarn denier mainly forms the core part, and the composite fiber B mainly forms the sheath part. As shown in FIG. 3, the wound yarn forming the sheath has fluff made of a large number of fine fibers wound around the core in an alternately twisted manner. In addition, in FIG. 4, the cross-sectional shape of the composite fiber B forming the sheath portion is shown to be slightly deformed compared to that in the core portion. This is because the winding yarn is wound around the core yarn at an angle as shown in Figure 3, so in the cross section perpendicular to the core yarn, the cross-sectional shape of the composite fiber B forming the sheath part is This is because the fibers appear to be slightly deformed compared to the composite fibers in the core yarn. Furthermore, in the spunlike processed yarn of the present invention,
As shown in Fig. 4, the wrapped thread forming the sheath includes:
Completely split filaments and incompletely split filaments of composite fiber B produced in the manufacturing process may be included. The woven or knitted fabric obtained using the spunlike processed yarn of the present invention not only has a good spunlike texture but also has an excellent surface appearance and a soft touch called peach skin touch. Moreover, the composite fiber B shown in FIG. 4 is made of two or more types of polymers, such as polyester and nylon,
When conjugate fibers made of polymers having different dyeability are used, the conjugate fibers are wound around a core mainly made of filament A in the form of alternating threads to form a sheath, and each polymer is It has fine fiber fluff consisting of. Therefore, when a woven or knitted fabric made of the processed yarn is dyed, the dyeability varies depending on the type of polymer, and a deep and unique color tone can be obtained. Furthermore, as shown in FIG.
A filament A in which a part of the filament A mainly forms the core.
Because each filament is intertwined at the interface between the core and sheath, there is no risk of the core and sheath separating during handling, making it easy to handle in the post-processing stage. . Next, examples of the present invention will be described in detail. Example Using polyethylene terephthalate as one component and nylon 6 as the other component, composite spinning was performed at a spinning speed of 1500 m/min to produce a hollow multi-segment composite fiber having a cross section as shown in Figure 1. Stretched multifilament (130de/20fil)
was manufactured. The elongation of this undrawn composite fiber multifilament is 350%, the shrinkage rate in boiling water is 50%,
The total number of segments in the composite fiber is 16, and the denier of each segment (after complete division) is 0.41 de.
It was hot. Polyethylene terephthalate partially oriented yarn (115de/24fil, elongation 160%,
Birefringence: 0.04, density: 1.345) was spliced and introduced into an interlace nozzle, mixed and entangled under a constant tension of 3.0 g to obtain a yarn with an entanglement degree of 50 strands/m, and then under the following conditions: A false twisting process was performed at the same time as stretching.
At this time, a 3-axis multi-disk type false twisting tool equipped with a rough surface disk described in JP-A-55-98932 was used as a friction false twisting tool, and a napping process was performed during processing, with a total denier of 164 de/44 fil. Ivy is rolled up as a brushed spunlike yarn. Processing conditions Stretching ratio: 1.53 times Heater temperature: 170℃ Heater effective length: 1.5cm Tension ratio (T ₂ / T ₁ ): 31g/40g〕0.78 Processing speed: 330m/min The obtained processed yarn is polyethylene terephthalate multifilament The polyester/polyamide composite fiber multifilament is wound around the filament in an almost continuous alternating manner, and a part of both the filaments is intertwined to form a two-layer structure. It had a large number of fluffs divided into segments. When this fluff (fine fibers) was randomly collected and its cross section was observed under a microscope, the average number of segments per fluff was 8, and the average denier was 0.25 de.
It was hot. In addition, the strength of this processed yarn is 2.0g/de
The elongation was 19% and the convergence was also good. Next, this processed yarn was used as the warp and weft to weave into a twill weave, and the resulting fabric was further subjected to a light raising treatment to obtain a raised fabric. Also, for comparison,
The spunlike textured yarn produced in Example No. 55-98932 was made into a similar raised fabric. Table 1 shows the results of evaluation of both of these fabrics by experts. 【table】

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged view of a cross section of a filament showing a preferred example of a multi-segment composite fiber constituting the sheath portion of the raised spunlike processed yarn of the present invention.
indicates a polyamide component, and T indicates a polyester component. FIG. 2 is a simplified side view of a drawing-simultaneous friction false-twisting processing apparatus showing an example of the method for producing a brushed spunlike textured yarn of the present invention, in which 1a is a partially oriented yarn package, 1b is a multi-segment yarn. 2 is a tension adjustment device, 3 is an interlace nozzle, 4 is a feed roller, 5 is a heater, 6 is a 3-axis multi-disk type external friction false twister, 7 is a delivery roller, and 8 is a winder. ,
Reference numeral 9 represents an oiling roller provided as necessary. 3 and 4 are a side view and a sectional view of the raised spunlike processed yarn of the present invention, and
B indicates a filament mainly forming a core portion, and B indicates a multi-segment composite fiber mainly forming a sheath portion.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 A synthetic fiber multifilament A with an average single filament denier of 3 to 6 de is a core, and around it, multifilaments B made of multi-segment composite fibers with an average single filament denier of 2 to 8 de are alternately arranged. It is a spun-like processed yarn with a two-layer structure in which it is wound into a twisted thread to form a sheath part, and each fiber is mixed and entangled with each other at the boundary between the core part and the sheath part, and the sheath part has a small amount of composite fibers. A raised spunlike processed yarn characterized in that both parts are cut and raised, and at least a part of the raised part is divided into each segment of a composite fiber to form fine fibers. 2. The raised spunlike processed yarn according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic fiber multifilament A is a polyester multifilament with a total denier of 50 to 300 de. 3. The brushed spunlike processed yarn according to claim 1, wherein the multi-segment type conjugate fiber is a conjugate fiber having a hollow cross section in which polyester and polyamide are alternately arranged radially. 4. The total denier of multifilament B made of multi-segment composite fiber is 50 to 300 de,
And for the total denier of multifilament A
The raised spunlike yarn according to claim 3, which is within the range of 0.8 to 1.2 times. 5. The raised spunlike yarn according to claim 3 or 4, wherein the denier of the fine fibers divided into multiple segments in the raised portion is within the range of 0.2 to 0.4.