JPS6237124B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to a method for producing a fit pattern that produces the same effect as a three-dimensional pattern.

[Conventional technology]

Conventionally, to create design patterns for dressmaking and knitting, there are two-dimensional drafting methods that use a prototype as a base, and three-dimensional cutting methods that create designs directly on the human body. The former prototype, which is generally known as a method of determining by calculation, involves various unreasonableness, and because it is based on it, the drafting method is difficult to understand, and the resulting distortion must be corrected. Since I couldn't get enough of it, basting it was very troublesome.

The latter solves the shortcomings of the former, and is a process in which the design is directly molded onto the human body using fabric.In short, it is incomparably more functional and three-dimensional, and can be aesthetically superior and easier to wear. Techniques and individuals require individual human bodies and fabrics, so it is difficult to generalize. In this respect, the planar projection is well suited.

[Purpose of the invention]

As a result of research aimed at solving the above-mentioned difficulties and taking advantage of their strengths to create more rational and universal clothing, we have developed a prototype that has proven the three-dimensional image of the human body (in other words, as a specific example, Clothes making by cutting based on the correct method of 3D cutting is reliable, but the same as that of 3D cutting patterns, because the design can be created based on a rational, flattened prototype of the human body, the results are very good. However, there is movement on the body, and creating an accurate mold even on a ready-made human body requires correction for distortion of the fabric and misalignment of vision, etc., and it takes time. Since this requires skill and is a particularly difficult task on the body, the present invention was developed with the aim of creating a mold more accurately and in a short time with simple operations.

[Structure of the invention]

The configuration of the present invention that solves the problems of the prior art is as follows:
A curved curve ruler is used on a rectangular material 4 that has an area that can cover the right or left upper half of the human body, and that freely conforms to the human body and maintains its shape.
After applying this to the armhole of a human body and marking the obtained armhole shape as the arm position, a smaller armhole 5 is made in this marked part, and radial notches 6 are made along this armhole 5. After that, put the material 4 on the right or left side of the human body by passing the arm of the human body through the arm shape 5, and then place the armpit part of the material 4 on the front and back of the body. Hold it tightly at the bottom, and while pinching the excess material 4 at the front and center at the front center part 7, fit it to the waist, bust, armholes, and neck to adjust the shape, and make a notch 8 at the neck part. Fit the shoulders and temporarily secure them, and also fit the back side of the material 4 to the waist, armholes, back, and neck, pinching the excess at the center of the back 9 and fitting it to the body in the same way as the front. The front and rear shoulders are aligned to obtain a three-dimensional model A that fits the body, and on the surface of the three-dimensional model A, front and rear center perpendicular lines 10, 11, front and rear waist lines 12, 13, side lines 14, front and rear armhole lines 15, 16. Mark the neck line 17 and shoulder line 18, then mark the front waist dart line 19 from the waist line 12 to the bust point, and the bust dart line 20 from the side line 14 to the bust point,
Next, mark a horizontal line (line a) perpendicular to the rear central perpendicular line 11 and toward the center of the scapula, and furthermore, mark a shoulder dart line 21 extending from the shoulder line 18 to the scapula, and a rear waist line 13. After marking the rear waist dart line 22 going from the scapula to the scapula, remove the three-dimensional model A with the various necessary lines marked from the human body, and draw the above-mentioned front and rear center perpendicular lines 10 and 11, and the front and rear waist lines. 12, 13, front and rear armhole line 1
5, 16. Cut out the material 4 along the neck line 17, and divide the three-dimensional mold A into two parts, the front and rear three-dimensional molds B and C, along the side line 14, and cut out the front central perpendicular line 10 of the front three-dimensional mold B. is fixed vertically, and the front waist line 12 is placed on a straight line with respect to the front center perpendicular line 10.
Open the bust dart line 20 and the front waist dart line 19 so that the dart line 20 and the front waist dart line 19 are adjusted appropriately, distribute the darts appropriately at each angle of the front main three-dimensional part, and fix the rear center perpendicular line 11 of the rear three-dimensional type C vertically. Then, open the shoulder dart line 21 so that the line a is perpendicular to the rear center perpendicular line 11, then open the rear waist dart line 22 so that the rear armhole line 16 naturally fits, and insert the dart line 22 at each angle of the rear main three-dimensional part. A method for creating a fitting prototype that produces the same effect as a three-dimensional cutting prototype, which is characterized by accurate dart distribution.

〔Example〕

Next, an embodiment of the upper body part of the present invention will be described. First, a wide tape 3 is stretched horizontally between the busts 2 of the human body 1 to erase the cleavage between the two busts 2.

Next, prepare a material 4 (a material that conforms to the human body and maintains its shape, such as cloth, non-woven fabric, aluminum foil, wire mesh, etc.) with an area large enough to cover the right or left upper body, and use a curved line ruler on the material 4. After applying the arm hole shape obtained by placing the arm hole to the arm hole of the human body and marking it as the arm position, a smaller arm hole 5 is made in this marked part,
Cuts 6 are made radially along the arm hole 5, and then the wearer is passed through the arm of the human body and worn on the human body.

Next, hold the armpit part of the material 4 tightly against the armpit of the body while blending it to the left and right sides of the body, that is, the front and back, and remove the excess at the front part of the material by pinching it at the center of the front part 7.
At the same time, fit it to the waist, bust, armholes, and neck to adjust the shape. Make cuts 8 where necessary to fit the shoulders and temporarily secure them. While pinching the remaining part at the center of the back, adjust the shape by fitting it well to the body in the same way as the front part, and aligning the front and back shoulders to obtain a three-dimensional shape A that fits the body.

On the surface of the obtained three-dimensional type A, the front and rear center perpendicular lines 1
0, 11, front and back waist lines 12, 13, side lines 1
4. Front and rear armhole lines 15, 16, neck line 1
7. Mark the shoulder line 18, then the front waist dart line 19 going from the front waist line 12 to the bust point, and in this example the side line 14
In this example, mark a horizontal bust dart line 20 toward the bust point, then mark a horizontal line (line a) perpendicular to the rear center perpendicular line 11 and toward the center of the scapula, and then In the example, shoulder line 1
In the example from No. 8, a shoulder dart line 21 heading toward the scapulae and a rear waist dart line 22 running from the rear waist line 13 toward the scapulae are marked.

Three-dimensional type A with the required various lines marked as above
is removed from the human body 1, and the center perpendicular line 1 of the front and back is
0, 11, Cut out the material 4 along the front and rear waist lines 12, 13, front and rear armhole lines 15, 16, and neck lines 17, and turn the three-dimensional mold A into front and rear three-dimensional molds B and C along the side lines 14. After dividing into two, fix the front center perpendicular line 10 of the front three-dimensional type B vertically, and draw the bust dart line 20 and the front waist dart line 19 so that the front waist line 12 is on a line at right angles to the front center perpendicular line 10. Open and accurately distribute darts to each angle of the front main three-dimensional part.

Further, the rear center perpendicular line 11 of the rear three-dimensional type C is fixed vertically, and the shoulder dart line 21 is opened so that the a line is perpendicular to the rear center perpendicular line 11, that is, held horizontally.
Next, by opening the rear waist dart line 22 so that the rear armhole fits naturally, and by appropriately distributing darts at each angle of the rear main three-dimensional part,
You can obtain a fitted pattern that produces the same effect as the three-dimensional cutting pattern.

Note that the order in which the various lines are drawn on the three-dimensional mold A shown in the claims and examples is not necessarily specified as described above, and may be done in an order that is easy to fill.

Further, the means for obtaining the three-dimensional shape A on the human body is not limited to that of the above embodiment. That is, the means used vary depending on the material used.

〔utility〕

As described above, according to the present invention, the basic pattern of three-dimensional cutting of ready-made clothes, which was conventionally made on a table, becomes simpler and more precise, and similarly, the basic pattern of three-dimensional cutting of ready-made clothes, which was conventionally made on a table, can be made even more simply and accurately, and in the same way, the basic pattern of three-dimensional cutting of ready-made clothes, which was conventionally made on a table, can be made even more simply and accurately. By solving this problem and using reasonable means, it is possible to create a fit model that produces the same effect as a three-dimensional model of any body type. In relation to the upper body part, it is possible to easily create accurate fitting models for the lower body and sleeves, which is a great advantage.

Since the prototype obtained in this way is a two-dimensional representation of the three-dimensional human body, all design drawings are based on it, that is, the amount of slack that has been thoroughly studied in each part of the human body. Although it is a clear plan drawing that incorporates design lines, the lines drawn on the paper match on the 3D image of the human body, so it has the advantage of being able to create silhouettes with an excellent 3D-cutting feel.

In addition, in draping, there are many parts that rely on the technician's sense, and it is easy for visual errors to occur.
For this reason, errors and errors in cutting may occur, resulting in time loss, but by applying the prototype obtained by the present invention according to the method, it is convenient to immediately find out these errors.

In addition, since this prototype production is simple and accurate as mentioned above, when it is used for high-quality ready-made clothes with excellent silhouettes, it becomes even more efficient. Since the different features are highlighted in the prototype, the strengths are emphasized, the right amount of slack is needed to cover the shortcomings, and the design is easy to respond to and has a balance that suits each person. can be clearly determined, functional, comfortable and beautiful clothes can be obtained, and the basting stitches are almost unaltered.

Furthermore, the prototype can be used to create a stand for each individual, making it an excellent invention that can be used in the fields of ready-made clothing, custom-made clothing, and home sewing.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 is a front view of the material, Figure 2 is a cross-sectional plan view of the material fitted onto the human body surface, Figure 3 is a front view of the same as above, Figure 4 is a back view of the same as above, and Figure 5 is a three-dimensional type. FIG. 6 is an exploded front view of the front three-dimensional type, and FIG. 7 is an expanded front view of the rear three-dimensional type. 4...Material, 5...Archive hole, 6...Notch, 7
...Knob processing, 8 ... Notch, 9 ... Knob processing, 10 ... Front center perpendicular line, 11 ... Back center perpendicular line, 12 ... Front waist line, 13 ... Back waist line, 14 ... Side line, 15...Front armhole line, 16...Back armhole line, 7...Network line, 18...Shoulder line, 19...Front waist dart line, 20...Bust dart line, 21...Shoulder dart line, 22... ...Rear waist dart line, A...Three-dimensional type, B...Front three-dimensional type, C...Back three-dimensional type.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1 (a) A curved curve scale ruler is used on a rectangular material 4 that has an area that can cover the right or left upper half of the human body, and that conforms freely to the human body and maintains its shape. , After applying this to the armhole of the human body and marking the arm hole shape obtained at the arm position, make a smaller armhole 5 on this marked part.
After making a radial cut 6 along this arm hole 5, passing the arm of the human body through the arm hole 5 and putting the material 4 on the right or left side of the human body, (b) Next, While applying the armpit part of material 4 to the front and back of the body, hold it closely to the armpit of the body, and remove the excess at the front and back of material 4 by pinching it at the center of the front. Adjust the shape by fitting it to the neck, make a notch 8 at the neck part, fit the shoulder and temporarily fix it, and also fit the back side of the material 4 to the waist, armhole, back, neck and the excess at the center of the back. Adjust the shape by fitting it in the same way as the front part while pinching 9 at the front part, and obtain a 3D model A that fits the body by combining the front and rear shoulders. ,1
1. Front and rear waist lines 12, 13, side lines 14,
Front and rear armhole lines 15, 16, neck line 1
7. Mark the shoulder line 18, (d) Next, mark the front waist dart line 19 from the waist line 12 to the waist point, and the bust dart line 20 from the side line 14 to the bust point, (e) Next , orthogonal to the rear center perpendicular line 11, and
Mark a horizontal line (line A) to the center of the scapula, and then mark a shoulder dart line 21 from the shoulder line 18 to the scapula, and a rear waist dart line 22 from the back waist line 13 to the scapula. After that, (f) Remove the three-dimensional model A with the various necessary lines marked from the human body, and mark the center perpendicular line 1 of the front and back as described above.
0, 11, the front and rear waist lines 12, 13, the front and rear armhole lines 15, 16, and the neck line 17.
(g) The front center perpendicular line 10 of the front three-dimensional form B is fixed vertically, and the front waist is placed on a straight line to this front center perpendicular line 10. Open the bust dart line 20 and the front waist dart line 19 so that the line 12 fits,
Appropriately distribute the darts at each angle of the front main three-dimensional part, (h) Also, fix the rear center perpendicular line 11 of the rear three-dimensional type C vertically so that the a line is perpendicular to the rear center perpendicular line 11. Three-dimensional cutting characterized by opening the shoulder dart line 21, then opening the rear waist dart line 22 so that the rear armhole line 16 naturally fits, and appropriately distributing darts at each angle of the rear main three-dimensional part. How to create a Fituto prototype that produces the same effect as the original.