JPS6260504B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric using a differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn made of polyester flat yarn for the warp and weft yarns. The purpose is to provide a flat yarn fabric with a rich drape property. Conventionally, various attempts have been made to make synthetic fibers, particularly flat yarns of polyester, to approximate the feel of silk. For example, from the raw yarn side, there are methods to give bulk by modifying the cross section,
A method of reducing bending hardness by making the single fibers constituting the raw yarn finer in denier or lowering Young's modulus, or by making a blended yarn consisting of filament yarns with different boiling water shrinkage rates into a woven fabric and then treating it with boiling water to make a woven fabric. A method of creating a bulge has been proposed. In particular, textiles made of mixed yarns with different shrinkage properties have been attracting a lot of attention recently, and one of the reasons for this is that they have the potential to satisfy requirements such as unique bulges due to differential shrinkage, surface touch, and favorable drapability. One example is that
The term "flat yarn" mentioned above refers to raw silk that is a long fiber (continuous filament) and has not been crimped. In particular, among the above-mentioned silk-like methods, mixed fiber yarns made of differentially shrinkable filament yarns can be obtained by a simple method of subjecting them to interlacing treatment, which can be processed at high speed. Intense efforts are being made regarding this. However, these efforts are limited to creating materials that satisfy most of the texture, feel, functionality, etc. of genuine silk, specifically, the unique swelling and surface touch (struckness, silkiness, and warmth) of genuine silk. The purpose of this method is to obtain a material that has a calm and elegant luster, sufficient drapability, and repellency, and no attempt has been made to apply these shrinkage characteristics to fields other than silk-like materials. is the current situation. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to use a mixed shrinkage yarn made of polyester flat yarns having different shrinkage rates to be used in fields other than silk's texture and feel. Another object of the present invention is to provide a fabric that exhibits a higher degree of swelling and bulk than silk, and has a soft feel and drapability. In order to achieve the above object, the present inventors
As a result of various studies, we found that the mixed fiber yarns constituting the fabric should (a) have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 3% or less for low-shrinkage components, and (b) have at least a difference in yarn length after dry heat treatment at 180°C for 15 minutes.
15% (c) A polyester blend yarn characterized in that the ratio of boiling water shrinkage (BWS) to maximum thermal stress (Fm) of the yarn as a whole is 40 to 75. For example, when this thread is heat-treated in a skein shape, it has a texture that far exceeds that of conventional threads.
Exhibits a tactile sensation. However, in fabrics in which the threads are arranged in warp and weft directions, it is extremely important to control the shrinkage rate from the greige to the finishing process in order to fully utilize the yarn properties and exhibit swelling and bulkiness of the fabric. . This is what I have now realized. That is, the present invention has the following characteristics (a) to (c): (a) The low shrinkage component is ultra-low thermal stress yarn, the thermal stress is 0.05 g/de or less, and the boiling water shrinkage rate is 3% or less (b) There is at least a difference in yarn length after dry heat treatment at 180℃ for 15 minutes.
15% (c) Different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn made of polyester flat yarn with a ratio of boiling water shrinkage (BWS) to maximum thermal stress (Fm) of the entire yarn of 40 to 75 is used as the warp and weft yarns. A fluffy, soft fabric with improved drapability, characterized by having a shrinkage rate of at least 10% in the width direction and length direction from the greige to the finished fabric, and subjected to alkali weight loss treatment. This is the manufacturing method. To further discuss this, first of all, the mixed fiber yarn used in the present invention can be obtained from a silky touch to a simple bulky feeling depending on the boiling water shrinkage rate between the filaments or the boiling water shrinkage rate of each filament yarn. This is based on the recognition that controlling the texture is extremely difficult, even if we consider only the shrinkage rate. Incidentally, Table 1 shows the relationship between the boiling water shrinkage (BWS) and shrinkage difference of low-shrinkage yarns and high-shrinkage yarns and the shrinkage difference in polyester-based differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarns that have been well known.

[Table] As is clear from the above examples, it is not possible to simultaneously satisfy the required characteristics of bulk, softness, and drape by simply changing the boiling water shrinkage rate, but this problem can be solved by the special selection of filament yarn. Therefore, the problem can be solved by keeping the relationship between the boiling water shrinkage rate (W%) and the maximum thermal stress (Fg/de) of the mixed yarn itself within a certain range. To explain this point with reference to Figure 1, the horizontal axis shows the BWS/F ratio of the mixed yarn, and the vertical axis shows the fabric made of the mixed yarn after being relaxed in warm water at 95°C for 30 minutes. The bulkiness (cm ³ /g) and soft feel (grade) after drying are plotted. Therefore, the trends of both
Looking at the relationship with BWS/F, first of all, when the value of BWS/F is extremely low, we cannot expect much bulkiness, but between 10 and 40, it increases almost linearly and rapidly, and then gradually increases. showing an increase.
On the other hand, it can be seen that the soft feel has an inverse correlation with the bulkiness, and the lower the BWS/F value, the better. As is clear from the figure, this soft feeling deteriorates rapidly as BWS/F increases, and 70
The above results almost deviate from the soft feeling in practical use. Here, the bulkiness and soft feel intended in the present invention mean 2.5 cm ³ /g or more for the former, and grade 3 or higher for the latter. Therefore, the range of BWS/F that satisfies both of these values needs to be 40 to 75 (preferably 45 to 65). Incidentally, bulkiness and soft feeling follow the definitions below. (i) Bulky property (cm ³ /g) According to the method of JISL1079, 1018. (In other words, it is calculated by measuring the purpose and thickness of the woven or knitted material.) (ii) Soft feel Evaluate on a five-point scale based on sensory test. 1st grade has almost no soft feeling, and 5th grade has the best soft feeling. Polyester blend yarns with the above characteristics usually have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 3% or less, preferably 1%.
-2.5% polyester filament yarn (hereinafter sometimes referred to as low shrinkage component) and polyester filament yarn (hereinafter referred to as high shrinkage component) also having a boiling water shrinkage of at least 13%, preferably 14% to 18%. ) is supplied to the fluid disturbance region and the two are mixed and entangled. The only thing to keep in mind here is that it is not enough to select the boiling water shrinkage rate of each filament yarn from the above range; when looking at it as a mixed fiber yarn, dry heat shrinkage
The ratio of low-shrinkage and high-shrinkage components, denier, and number of filaments can be appropriately selected so that a difference in yarn length of 15% or more and BWS/F is 40 to 75 when processed at 180℃ for 10 minutes. Some examples of these are listed in Table 2 below.

[Table] In the present invention, polyester filament yarn, which is a high shrinkage component, is generally produced by hot-drawing an undrawn yarn taken at a spinning speed of 2000 m/min or less at a drawing ratio of 3.0 to 4.0, or by hot-drawing it at a drawing ratio of 3.0 to 4.0, or preferably at 2000 m/min.
Partially oriented yarn drawn at a spinning speed of 2800 m/min or higher is hot-stretched at a draw ratio of 1.3 to 2.5 times to achieve boiling water shrinkage of 14% to 18% and thermal stress Fh of 0.4 g/de to 0.55.
It may be adjusted within the range of g/de. On the other hand, as a low-shrinkage component, a drawn yarn (birefringence △n of 0.14 or more) having a normal thermal stress of 0.3 g/de to 0.4 g/de and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 8 to 10% is further subjected to relaxation heat treatment. obtained by In this case, considering the thickness (denier) of the drawn yarn, heater length, heater temperature, relaxation rate, etc., for example, when using a heater with a length of 20 to 100 cm, the yarn speed is 400 to 1000 m/min, and the heater temperature is 200 m/min. A range of ~240°C and a relaxation rate of 4 to 16% is appropriate. As the denier of the yarn becomes thicker, the heat treatment effect due to relaxation rate and setting time becomes smaller, so it is preferable that the heat treatment conditions become stricter as the denier increases. What is important here is the boiling water shrinkage rate of the low-shrinkage component; unless this is 3% or less, the desired bulkiness cannot be expected even if the other requirements meet the scope of the present invention. Figure 2 shows the relationship between the bulkiness (cm ³ /g) of the fabric and the boiling water shrinkage (BWS) of the low shrinkage component. In other words, polyester filament yarn 30de/24fils is used as a low shrinkage component.
Also, as a high shrinkage component, boiling water shrinkage rate is 14% and thermal stress is 0.43.
g/de polyester filament yarn 30de/
The bulkiness (cm 3 /g) after relaxing treatment in warm water at 95°C for 25 minutes is plotted on the vertical axis of a fabric (Palace) manufactured using mixed fiber yarns using 12fils as warp and weft yarns, and the bulkiness (cm ³ /g) of the fabric is plotted on the vertical axis. Boiling water shrinkage (BWS) is plotted on the horizontal axis. Here, it can be seen that the BWS of the low shrinkage component in the mixed yarn must be 3% or less. The specifications of the finished fabric in the above example are as follows. Weight (g/ ^m2 ) 119 Warp density (strands/cm) 91.8 Number of warp twists (T/M) 300 Weft density (strands/cm) 41.7 Number of weft twists (T/M) 3000 Shrinkage rate in the width direction (%) ) 17.0 Hereinafter, an example of the production of a mixed fiber yarn according to the present invention will be explained with reference to FIG. 3. The figure shows a typical drawn polyester yarn that is subjected to relaxation heat treatment to make it a low-shrinkage component, and on the other hand, a polyester yarn that is not heat-treated at the time of stretching and is prepared using boiling water. Shrinkage rate is 14
An example is shown in which % or more of drawn yarn is mixed. In this example, the drawn yarn (usually having a boiling water shrinkage of 8% to 10%) 1 passes through a supply roller system 2 to a relaxation heat treatment zone, i.e., the diameter of the roller system 2 and a stepped roller 3 rotating at a lower circumferential speed. The material is heat-treated in a relaxed state in a treatment zone formed by the diameter portion 4 and the heater 5 provided between the two, resulting in a low-shrinkage component with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 3% or less. For this purpose, the yarn speed, heater length, heater temperature, and relaxation rate described above may be used. And this low shrinkage component is a stepped roller.
After being wound several times between the large-diameter portion 4 of No. 3 and the separate roller 6, it is supplied to the interlaced nozzle 7 that forms a fluid disturbance region. On the other hand, the high shrinkage component 8 is wound between the small diameter portion 8 of the stepped roller 3 and the separate roller 6, and is supplied from this to the interlace nozzle. Therefore, high-shrinkage and low-shrinkage components are simultaneously supplied to the interlace nozzle 7, subjected to the agitation action of the fluid, mixed and intertwined to form the mixed yarn 9, which is taken off by a take-up roller system 10 and then wound into a winding machine 11. taken. Since the thus obtained mixed fiber yarn is subjected to the mixing and entangling effects caused by fluid disturbance, it has entangled portions along the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and as a result, the cohesiveness of the yarn itself is further improved. Become. It is usually appropriate to adjust the number of interlaced portions to about 50 to 100 per meter, and for this purpose, processing conditions may be selected as appropriate, taking into consideration the interlace nozzle, air pressure, yarn tension, etc. For this purpose, the interlace nozzle shown in Japanese Patent Publication No. 37-1175, Japanese Patent Publication No. 36-12230, etc. is used, the pneumatic pressure is 2 to 5 Kg/cm ³ , and the thread tension is 0.01 to
It is sufficient to process at a rate of about 0.05g/de. Furthermore, although the above example shows an embodiment in which the low-shrinkage component is over-fed compared to the high-shrinkage component, this is not necessarily necessary, and both yarns may be fed to the interlace nozzle at the same feed amount. Only, the space between the fibers
From the point of view of increasing the shrinkage (particularly after relaxation treatment), it is advantageous to overfeed the low shrinkage component by about 0.2% to 2.0% to cause a slight curl on the surface of the mixed fiber yarn. In the present invention, a woven fabric is manufactured using the above-mentioned mixed fiber yarns substantially as warp and weft yarns. Warp and weft yarns are untwisted, but for thin fabrics that are lightly twisted, the bulge effect is noticeable due to Relaxing treatment, and the warp is lightly twisted,
Medium to strong twisting with a weft of 1000 t/m or more is particularly preferred since it provides a product with appropriate fullness and excellent drapability. In either case, it is necessary that the shrinkage rate of the fabric in the width direction and length direction from greige to finishing is 10% or more. The process from greige fabric to finishing process includes relaxation process, preset process, dyeing process, final set process, etc., but the important thing is that the shrinkage rate in the width direction and length direction after going through all the processes is the width of the greige fabric. It is necessary to set it to 10% or more in the direction and length direction. If it is less than 10%, sufficient bulkiness as a fabric cannot be obtained. On the other hand, in terms of yarn thickness, the blended yarn used in the present invention is different from conventional non-shrinkable yarns aimed at achieving silk touch, and even in the case of slightly twisted yarns, it is It has the characteristic of being able to easily produce products that are better than meat. These products are made of mixed fiber yarns with significantly improved interfiber voids, so they have excellent bulk and swelling as well as excellent drape properties.In order to further improve the latter drape properties, in the case of polyester filament yarns, It is also advantageous to employ known alkali treatments (NaOH, quaternary ammonium compounds). In this case, a weight loss rate of about 10% to 30% is sufficient, and as a result, the high degree of interfiber space that has been potentially provided becomes more pronounced. As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to easily produce a fabric that has effects completely different from conventional ones, that is, is rich in bulk and bulge, and is soft and has excellent drape properties, even though it is a differentially contracted filament yarn. Can be provided. Example 1 A mixed fiber yarn was manufactured under the following conditions through the steps shown in FIG. A Yarn usage (1) Low shrinkage component 1 Polyester filament yarn 30de/24fils (BWS=9% F=
0.36g/de) (2) High shrinkage component 8 Polyester filament yarn 30de/12fils (BWSh=14% Fh=
0.43g/de) B Processing conditions (1) Circumferential speed of supply roller system 2 733.7m/min (2) Heater 5 Length 35cm Temperature 210℃ (3) Circumferential speed of stepped roller 3 large diameter part 4 660.3m /min Circumferential speed of small diameter part 8 652.0m/min (4) Interlaced nozzle The one shown in Figure 3 of Japanese Patent Publication No. 1175/1975,
Compressed air pressure 1.6Kg/cm ² (5) Yarn tension between interlace nozzle 7 and take-off roller system 10 0.11 g/de (6) Circumferential speed of take-off roller system 10 650 m/min Note that low shrinkage component 1 is the heater 5 10% by
BWS in front of nozzle 7 after undergoing relaxation heat treatment.
= 2.0%, F = 0.03 g/de. Next, Table 1 shows the results of measuring the properties of the obtained mixed fiber yarn. Table 1 (a) BWS of low shrinkage component in blended yarn 2.0% (b) BWS of entire blended yarn 13.0% (c) Thermal stress of blended yarn (F) 0.25g/de (d) Dry heat Thread length difference (△L) that occurs when processed at 180℃ for 10 minutes 19.2% (E) BWS/F 52 (F) Soft feeling Grade 4 (G) Bulky property 2.9cm ³ /g Furthermore, in the above example, low shrinkage Table 2 shows the properties of mixed fiber yarns obtained by variously changing the relaxation rate in the heater 5 of component 1.

[Table] Using the mixed yarns obtained in Tables 1 and 2 for the warp and weft, weaved a plain jersey with a warp density of 69 threads/cm and a weft density of 38 threads/cm, then using a rotary washer. hand
Shrinkage treatment was performed in hot water at 97℃ for 12 minutes, and then the fabric after shrinkage treatment was preset with 3% overfeed in the warp direction, followed by a 12% alkali weight loss (98℃).
℃ for 25 minutes in a bath with an alkali concentration of 18 g/min. The obtained fabric had a shrinkage of 12% in the width direction, and its performance is shown in Tables 1 and 2. If the BWS is 3% or less and the BWS/F is 40 to 70, the softness is grade 3 or higher and the bulk is 2.5cm ³ /g.
The above results showed a good texture. In addition, when the shrinkage rate in the width direction was set to 7% in the finishing step, the softness was grade 2, the bulkiness was 2.4 cm ³ /g, and the feel was poor. Example 2 In Example 1, polyester filament yarn 75de/48fils was used as low shrinkage component 1, and high shrinkage component 8
As polyester filament yarn 50de/36fils
A mixed fiber yarn was obtained by performing the same operation except that the heater temperature was changed to 230°C. The properties of this mixed fiber yarn are as shown in Table 4. Table 4 (a) BWS of low shrinkage component in blended yarn 2.5% (b) BWS of entire blended yarn 13.5% (c) Thermal stress of blended yarn (F) 0.31g/de (d) Dry heat Difference in yarn length (ΔL) caused when treated at 180° C. for 10 minutes: 18.6% (e) BWS/F 43.5 A dioset fabric with a flat weave was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using this mixed fiber yarn. On the other hand, for comparison, fabrics were obtained under similar conditions using polyester filament yarns of the same denier or 8% BWS as low shrinkage components.
These results are shown in Table 5. Table 5 Comparative Example of the Present Invention Bulkyness (cm ³ /g) 2.7 2.3 Soft Feel (Grade) 4 3 Drapeability (Grade) 4 4 Drapeability is evaluated in 5 grades by sensory test, with grade 5 being the best. . The medium-thickness strongly twisted fabric obtained from the 125de mixed fiber yarn of the present invention had greater bulkiness and good soft feel compared to the conventional mixed fiber yarn (comparative example).

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 shows the bulkiness of the fabric, the soft feel and the blended yarn.
A graph explaining the relationship with BWS/F, Figure 2 is a graph explaining the relationship between the boiling water shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage component in the mixed fiber yarn and bulkiness of the fabric, and Figure 3 is a graph explaining the relationship between the blended fiber according to the present invention It is a schematic diagram showing a manufacturing process of thread. 1...Low shrinkage component, 2...Supply roller system, 3
... Stepped roller, 5 ... Heater, 7 ... Interlace nozzle, 8 ... High shrinkage component, 9 ... Mixed fiber yarn, 10 ... Take-up roller system, 11 ... Winding machine.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. The following characteristics (a) to (c): (a) The low shrinkage component is an ultra-low thermal stress yarn, the thermal stress is 0.05 g/de or less, and the boiling water shrinkage rate is 3% or less ( (b) The difference in yarn length after dry heat treatment at 180℃ for 15 minutes is at least 15% (c) The ratio of boiling water shrinkage (BWS) to maximum thermal stress (Fm) of the entire yarn is 40 to 75. A woven fabric obtained by using differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarns made of flat yarns as substantially warp and weft yarns has a shrinkage rate of at least 10% in the width direction and length direction from greige to finishing, and is subjected to alkali weight loss treatment. A method for producing a fabric that is soft and fluffy and has improved drape properties. 2. A method for producing a fluffy, soft fabric with improved drape properties as claimed in claim 1, in which medium to high twist yarns of 1000 T/M or more are arranged as weft yarns. 3. The method for producing a fluffy, soft fabric with improved drape properties as claimed in claim 1, wherein the alkali weight loss treatment is 10 to 30 wt%.