JPH0210264B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

[Industrial Application Field] The present invention has excellent shape stability because the surface knitted fabric has the appearance of a woven fabric made of intertwined warp and weft yarns, and the back surface has a warp-knitted structure. The present invention relates to a warp knitted fabric having elasticity of 20% or more and recovery of 90% or more in the warp and weft directions, and excellent heat retention. [Conventional technology] Conventional general warp knitted fabrics, even when using natural fibers or synthetic fibers, have only about 20% elasticity in the weft direction, and even lower elasticity in the warp direction. . In order to compensate for this drawback, for example, as shown in Figure 3, polyurethane elastic fibers are alternately knitted to
Knitted fabrics that are stretchable in the weft or weft direction are used for underwear and underwear. In the warp knitted fabric shown in Fig. 3, knitting is performed by inserting one warp thread 1 into the ground weave 2 and 3 .
Since the warp yarns 1 were simply inserted into the ground structures 2 and 3 , they were usually used as warp knitted fabrics with high elasticity. On the other hand, if a warp-knitted fabric with a textile-like appearance can be obtained, it is expected that the uses of the warp-knitted fabric will expand.
For example, in Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 48-13264, two warp threads are arranged so as to alternately move up and down with respect to the sinker loop of an arbitrary structure of open stitch and closed stitch.
Insert each course in a sewing (Japanese style) pattern, and make sure that one of these two warp threads is above the sinker loop and the other is below the sinker loop, and the sinker loop is held between the two warp threads. A tricot fabric having a texture like a woven fabric is disclosed in which the amount of yarns constituting the sinker loops is several to ten times as large as that of the warp yarns.
In this tricot fabric, the inserted threads alternately appear on the fabric surface, so it can have a woven-like appearance. [Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The conventionally known elastic warp knitted fabric lacks knitted fabric weight, knitted loops appear on the surface of the knitted fabric, so the appearance of a woven fabric cannot be obtained, and the stitches do not form under tension. Because of its shortcoming of opening, it was generally used as a spring/summer material, and its functionality was insufficient for fall/winter clothing, which requires heat retention. The characteristics required for functional products for autumn and winter in the fields of men's, women's, and children's clothing and women's underwear foundations are abrasion resistance, shape stability, elegance with a textile-like appearance, heat retention, and comfort. It is necessary to simultaneously satisfy wearing comfort, but the conventionally known elastic warp knitted fabrics cannot satisfy these characteristics in combination. On the other hand, the warp knitted fabric disclosed in Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 48-13264 has a woven-like appearance because the inserted yarns alternately appear on the surface of the fabric as described above. However, since this warp knitted fabric is made of filaments and spun yarn, it has only the same elasticity as a normal warp knitted fabric. It is also conceivable to use this warp-knitted fabric with polyurethane elastic yarns to make a stretchable woven-like warp-knitted fabric. However, in this warp knitted fabric, only two warp threads are used between adjacent rows of needle loops, resulting in an insufficient woven-like appearance, and the stitches that open under tension cannot be sufficiently closed by the warp threads. ,
The problem of insufficient functionality for autumn/winter clothing that requires heat retention remains unresolved. The present invention solves various problems of conventionally known warp knitted fabrics, has a textile-like appearance, and is highly stretchable.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a warp knitted fabric whose stitches are sufficiently closed even under tension and which has heat retention properties. [Means for Solving the Problems] An object of the present invention is to continuously insert four or more warp yarns in the warp direction between adjacent rows of needle loops without forming needle loops, and to A warp-knitted fabric in which each of the above warps rises and falls above and below a sinker loop formed by a ground reed in the wale direction, and has a portion where the warp rises and falls with respect to one sinker loop. This can be achieved by using a highly elastic warp knitted fabric characterized in that at least the yarns forming the needle loop rows contain 5% by weight or more of polyurethane elastic fibers. In the warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, four or more warp threads in the warp direction and sinker loops in the weft direction appear on the front surface, giving an appearance similar to the warp and weft threads of a textile, and the back surface is made of ground reeds. It has a knitting structure of warp knitted fabric. In addition, four or more warp yarns are inserted continuously in the warp direction between adjacent rows of needle loops, and have a woven-like intersecting relationship with the sinker loops, so that it can exhibit an appearance extremely similar to a woven fabric. At the same time, even under tension, the stitches can be closed sufficiently to provide sufficient heat retention. It is necessary to use a yarn containing 5% by weight or more of polyurethane elastic fibers as the yarn forming the needle loop row, that is, the yarn for the ground weave. In this case, the knitted fabric sinker loops provide elasticity in the weft direction, and the needle loops provide elasticity in the warp direction. If it is less than 5%, good stretchability of the knitted fabric cannot be obtained. The content of polyurethane elastic fibers may be increased depending on the desired function of the product. Further, threads containing polyurethane elastic fibers may be used as the warp threads. In this way, if yarns containing polyurethane elastic fibers are used for both the yarn forming the ground texture and the yarn inserted in the warp direction, a knitted fabric that has high elasticity in both warp and weft and has a woven-like appearance is obtained. In this way, when the content of polyurethane elastic fibers in the entire knitted fabric reaches 15 to 40%,
The warp knitted fabric thus obtained has the best high elasticity in terms of functionality. The yarn containing polyurethane elastic fibers used in the present invention includes polyurethane elastic yarns such as core yarns, covering yarns, and twisted yarns, but the method of using the polyurethane elastic fibers can be selected depending on the intended use. good. For example, use polyurethane elastic fibers as they are (bare use), use them in core yarns in combination with natural fibers, or cover yarns in combination with synthetic fibers such as acrylic fibers, etc. The combinations are appropriate depending on the application. change is possible. As the yarn that does not contain polyurethane elastic fibers, yarns made of natural fibers, yarns made of synthetic fibers, or blended yarns thereof can be used. In order to prevent the stitches from opening during tensioning and to improve heat retention, it is more preferable to use threads thicker than the threads of the ground weave for the warp. As the ground structure of the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, 1×2 tricot, 1×3 tricot, and a combination structure (half structure) of 1×2 tricot and 1×3 tricot are mainly used. Any warp knitting structure may be used as long as it is a warp knitting structure constituting the warp knitted fabric. Preferably, from the viewpoint of morphological stability, 1×
Insert the warp threads into the tricot structure in step 2. The warp knitting machine used for manufacturing the warp knitted fabric of the present invention includes a normal Latschiel machine and a tricotto machine, but preferably a Latschiel machine is preferred. Further, there are three types of needles: a flat needle, a barb needle, and a compound needle, and all of them can be used, but a compound needle is preferable. Furthermore, as a knitting machine gauge,
It is possible to knit all the gauges from 6 gauge/inch to 32 gauge/inch, but preferably 20 gauge/inch to 30 gauge/inch. The number of warp yarns inserted, which is four or more in the present invention, is determined by appropriately selecting the number of reeds of the warp knitting machine depending on the intended warp knitted fabric. For example, in the case of a Ratsiel knitting machine and a tricot knitting machine, the number of reeds is usually 3 to 8, so it is sufficient to knit the ground weave with 1 to 3 reeds and insert the warp threads with the remaining reeds. In addition, in the case of a special lace lattice knitting machine, the number of reeds is usually 20 to 52, but the ground weave is knitted with 1 to 3 reeds, and the warp is inserted using some or all of the other reeds. Just do it. In the present invention, in one wale,
In other words, each sinker loop in one wale direction has a part where the warp threads rise and fall, and by forming this part appropriately, the appearance of plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, etc. can be achieved. For example, if it is formed in all wales, a plain weave appearance can be obtained. Here, the state in which the warp threads rise and fall in one sinker loop spanning one wale varies depending on the number of warp threads inserted and the selection of the shogging motion of the warp threads. The numbers are 1 and 3, 2 and 2
There are cases where the combination of four books is alternated. The same applies to the case of five or more warps, and in this way, the state of ups and downs may be appropriately selected depending on the number of warps inserted and the desired woven appearance. The number or denier of the yarn used may be changed depending on the gauge of the warp knitting machine used. For example, in the case of a 48 gauge/2 inch lattice machine, the ground weave is 50 denier to 200 denier (1/180 Nm to 1/45 Nm), and the thread inserted into the warp is 100 denier to 600 denier (1/45 Nm). 90Nm~
1/15Nm), or in the case of a 28 gauge/inch tricot machine, the ground structure should be 20 denier ~
If you use 150 denier (1/450Nm to 1/60Nm), and the yarn inserted into the warp range from 50 denier to 450 denier (1/180Nm to 1/20Nm), you can create a knitted fabric with excellent functionality. is obtained. The present invention will be described in detail below based on examples shown in the accompanying drawings. Fig. 1 shows an example in which four warp threads are inserted.
As shown in this knitting organization chart, there are four warp threads in the warp direction.
6, 17, 18, and 19 are successively inserted between adjacent rows of needle loops, and the ground weave 15 is knitted with a 1×2 tricot weave, as shown in the enlarged view of the knitted yarn in Fig. 2. , the inserted four warp threads 16, 17, 18, 19 are inserted in one direction in the wale direction between the needle loops 20 which are also made of ground reeds.
Between two sinker loops, i.e., one wale
It has a part that rises and falls above and below one sinker loop 21 that spans the area. In other words, when the warp threads 16 and 17 inserted in the warp direction are jogged by one wale with respect to the sinker loop 21 that spans between one wale, the other warp threads 1
8 and 19 are jogged for 2 wales. Also, when the warp threads 16 and 17 are shogged for two wales, if the warp threads are shogged so that the other warp threads 18 and 19 are shogged for one wale,
The four warp yarns 16, 17, 18, and 19 float above and below one sinker loop in one wale direction of the needle loop configured with ground reeds, that is, one sinker loop spanning between one wale. . That is, when the warp threads 16 and 17 float (sink), the warp threads 18 and 19 have a sinking (floating) portion, so that a warp knitted fabric having a dazzling woven-like appearance is obtained. In order to clarify the arrangement of the ground structure and warp yarns in the warp knitted fabric having four or more warp yarns of the present invention in an inserted state, FIGS. This will be explained below with reference to FIG. In the warp knitted fabric shown in FIG. 4, two warp yarns 5 and 6 are continuously inserted between adjacent needle loops, that is, between wales. As shown in the enlarged view of the knitted yarn in FIG. For one sinker loop 8 that floats up and down in the wale direction and spans the wale distance a, one warp (5 or 6) has a part where it floats and the other warp thread sinks. Figure 6 shows the warp yarns 5 and 6 in the wale direction of the needle loop 7 and the sinker loop 8.
This is an expanded view of the intersecting state of . According to FIG. 6, the sinker loop 8 that spans one wale space a intertwines above and below the warp threads 5 and 6 inserted in the warp direction. It can be clearly seen that the spanning sinker loops 8 serve as the weft threads of the fabric, and that the inserted warp threads 5, 6 serve as the warp threads of the fabric. In this way, the sinker loops 8 serve as weft threads in the fabric. Therefore, the appearance of the knitted fabric of the present invention is completely woven. In addition, since the back side has a warp knitted structure formed of ground reeds, it can fully satisfy the performance as a knitted fabric, such as high tear strength. or,
If you require a warp-knitted fabric with a woven-like appearance and high strength, change the wrapping method of the ground reed that forms the ground structure by changing the length of the sinker loop by adjusting the length of the sinker loop as appropriate in the course direction. All you have to do is change it. The arrangement relationship between the ground weave and the warp threads is the same even when there are four or more warp threads. However, in order to prevent the stretchable warp knitted fabric of the present invention from opening its stitches and reducing its heat retention properties when stretched, the number of warp threads must be four or more. When there are two warp threads as shown in FIGS. 4 to 6, the stitches open when the warp knitted fabric is tensioned, making it impossible to maintain heat retention. This means that the obtained warp knitted fabric can be used as a spring/summer material, but cannot be used as an autumn/winter material. In the warp knitted fabric of the present invention, as mentioned above, four or more warp threads are inserted to prevent the mesh from opening, and more specifically, to prevent the cover factor from opening under normal usage conditions for clothing, for example, under a tension of about 20%. By configuring the material to have a value close to 100%, it becomes a textile-like jersey that has the elegance and heat retention of a textile-like material, and is particularly comfortable to wear (high elasticity), making it suitable for men, women, and children. The best material can be obtained for the outerwear field of clothing and the underwear field such as women's foundations. In addition, abrasion resistance, washing resistance, bending resistance,
A highly stretchable woven warp-knitted fabric having excellent pilling properties and strong knitted fabric properties can be obtained. [Example] The present invention will be explained in detail with reference to Examples below. Example 1 A warp knitting machine, a 28 gauge/inch tricot machine with 7 reeds was used, and the front reed was made of covering yarn containing 10% or more of polyurethane elastic yarn (polyurethane elastic fiber 40 denier and covering yarn nylon). A 110 denier yarn with a polyurethane elastic fiber content of 36% (70 denier) was used, and the base texture was knitted with a 1-0/3-4 texture.
The middle reed for inserting the warp is made of acrylic spun yarn 1/
Using 25Nm, middle and reed are 0-0/3
-3/0-0/2-2/0-0/1-1, middle, reed is 0-0/1-1/0-0/3-3/
It was inserted with a structure of 0-0/2-2 and was formed with an on-board course of 55 courses/inch. This knitted fabric has four inserted yarns between each wale. As a comparison of this knitted fabric, a knitted fabric with warp insertion according to the prior art was knitted. 28 gauge with 3 reeds/
Using a 1-inch tricot machine, the front reed and middle reed are made of 75 denier processed polyester yarn, and the front reed has a 1-0/1-2 structure and the middle reed has a 2-3/1-0 structure. A local organization was organized.
Back reed uses cotton thread 30/2S', 0-0/2
-2 structure was inserted and the on-machine course was 55 courses/inch. These knitted fabrics were subjected to relaxation scouring (60℃, 45℃
The dyeing process was performed under the following conditions: (min) → dyeing (windows at 100℃, 60 minutes) → finishing set (dry heat at 160℃, 1 minute), and the consumption performance, stretch characteristics, and functional properties of this knitted fabric were measured. . As a result, the warp knitted fabric of the present invention has very good elastic properties, has elasticity and firmness, has shape stability, heat retention, elegance, and abrasion resistance, and is densely inserted. Therefore, it was found that a highly stretchable woven warp knitted fabric with high anti-snacking properties could be obtained. The functionality of these knitted fabrics was measured using the following measuring method, and the results were as follows. ◎ Washing shrinkage rate in terms of consumption performance: 20% at 5cm intervals on a 30cm x 30cm test piece
After placing targets between cm and marking in the warp and weft directions, home washing is performed. Measuring method: Temperature: 40°C ± 2°C Bath ratio: 1:50 Washing time: Main washing 5 minutes Rinse: 10 minutes Room temperature Detergent Knee beads 0.2% Dehydration Centrifugal dehydration 30 seconds Drying Natural drying Measure the shrinkage rate of the test piece after 10 washes do. Bending resistance: Same as washing shrinkage rate, before washing and washing 10
Measure the repellency of the fabric after spinning. Measurement method: Press the edge of the test piece with the tip of a pencil,
Measure the length from the point where the fabric returns to its natural origin to the edge. Tear strength: Performed using the benzyllam method and Elmendorf tear tester. Measurement method: Make a 2cm cut with a knife on a 6.5cm x 10cm test piece, and measure the tear strength of the remaining 4.5cm. Snacking: A test piece is scratched with a friction element, and the degree of change in appearance (snatching) is measured by comparing it with a standard sample. Measurement method: Use a Snut King tester to rub the friction element at 54 rpm for 1 minute, and measure the degree of friction by comparing it with a standard sample. It was measured on a five-level scale, with grade 5 being the best and grade 1 being poor. ◎ Stretch properties Measure the stretch properties of the knitted fabric in the warp and weft directions. Test piece: 5cm x 30cm Knitted fabric condition: 200g load Woven fabric condition: 1500g load Measurement method: Apply a load to the test piece and read the elongation 5 minutes later.Read the length 5 minutes after removing the weight. Measure the elongation and recovery rate of the test piece at that time. Table 1 below shows a comparison of the functional characteristics of the warp knitted fabric of the embodiment of the present invention and the conventional warp knitted fabric.

【table】

[Table] Example 2 When knitting a warp knitted fabric under the same conditions as Example 1, the number of warp threads inserted between adjacent rows of needle loops was 2 (comparative example), 4 and 6 (comparative example). The warp was changed to 1/40 Nm).
The cover factor of the obtained warp knitted fabric was investigated and the values are shown in Table 2. The diameter of the covering yarn of the ground weave is 0.08 mm, and the diameter of the warp is 1/25 Nm, which is 0.2
mm, 0.13 mm at 1/40Nm.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The warp knitted fabric according to the present invention is a highly elastic woven-like warp-knitted fabric in which four or more warps are inserted between adjacent rows of needle loops, so it has a woven-like appearance, is rich in elasticity, and has a high tension. Even at the bottom, the stitches are sufficiently closed to provide heat retention. Therefore, it can be widely used as a highly functional warp knitted fabric for autumn/winter clothing.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 shows a knitting structure chart of a warp knitted fabric (four warps) exhibiting a highly elastic woven fabric-like function according to the present invention. FIG. 2 is an enlarged view of the knitted yarn in FIG. 1.
FIG. 3 shows a knitting structure diagram of a conventionally known conventional warp-inserted warp knitted fabric. Figures 4 to 6 are diagrams showing the structure of a warp knitted fabric in which the number of warp threads is two, in order to explain the arrangement relationship between the ground structure and the warp threads in a warp knitted fabric having four or more warp threads according to the present invention. Fig. 4 is a compositional organization diagram, Fig. 5 is an enlarged view of the knitted yarn in Fig. 4, and Fig. 6 is an intersecting state of the warp and one sinker loop in the wale direction of the knitted fabric in Fig. 4. FIG. 2 is an enlarged perspective view of FIG. The numbers in the figure indicate the following. 1,5,
6, 16, 17, 18, and 19 indicate threads to be inserted in the warp direction. 2 , 3 , 4 , and 15 indicate the threads of the ground texture. Reference numerals 7 and 20 indicate yarns of needle loops which are also constructed from the ground weave. Reference numerals 8 and 21 indicate the threads of the sinker loops, which are also constructed from the ground weave.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Four or more warp threads are continuously inserted in the warp direction between adjacent rows of needle loops without forming needle loops, and the four or more warp threads are
A warp knitted fabric having a portion in which the warp yarns rise and fall above and below sinker loops formed by ground reeds in the wale direction, and in which the warp yarns rise and fall with respect to one sinker loop, and at least the above-mentioned A highly stretchable warp knitted fabric characterized by using a yarn containing 5% by weight or more of polyurethane elastic fibers as the yarn forming the needle loop rows.